Installation Instructions & Recommended Procedures

Transcription

1 Custom Metal Industries, Inc East Main Street Greenfield, Indiana (317) (800) Website: Installation Instructions & Recommended Procedures Table Of Contents: Introduction Section 1 General Safety Precautions Page 2 Section 2 Storing & Handling Steel Panels & Trims Page 2-3 Section 3 Valley Flashing Installation Page 3 Section 4 Eave Trim Installation Page 3 Section 5 Side Fascia Trim Installation Page 3 Section 6 Eave (Inside) Closures Installation Page 3-4 Section 7 Roofing Panel Installation (General) Page 4 Section 8 Roofing Panel Installation (Full Length Panels) Page 4-5 Section 9 Roofing Panel Installation (End-Lapping Panels) Page 5 Section 10 Roofing Panel Installation (Cutting Valley Panels) Page 6 Section 11 Gable Trim Installation Page 6-7 Section 12 End Fascia Trim Installation Page 7 Section 13 Ridge Cap Installation Page 7 Section 14 Flashing Installation Page 7 A. General Page 7 B. Flashing around protruding structures Page 7-8 C. Flashing along horizontal (top-abutting) adjacent walls Page 8-9 D. Flashing along vertical (side-abutting) adjacent walls Page 9 Section 15 Ridge (Outside) Closures Installation Page 9 Section 16 Posi-Vent Universal Venting Closure Installation Page 9-10 Section 17 Mastic Lap Tape Installation Page 10 A. General Page 10 B. Side-lapping roofing panels Page 10 C. End-lapping roofing panels Page 10 D. Roofing trims Page 10 Section 18 Screw Fastener Installation Page 11 A. General Page 11 B. Fastening steel panels Page 11 C. Fastening ridge caps & flashings Page 11 D. Fastening corner, gable & fascia trims Page 11 Section 19 Flashers Flexible Pipe Flashing Installation Page 11 Section 20 Base Trim Installation Page 12 Section 21 J-Channel Trim Installation Page 12 A. General Page 12 B. Around windows & other such wall obstructions Page C. Around door openings, door frames & other such wall openings Page 13 D. Across the top of siding panels Page 13 E. Along a previously finished wall of an adjoining building Page 13 Section 22 Overhead Door & Jamb Cover Trim Installation Page 13 A. General Page 13 B. Overhead door trims Page C. Jamb cover trims Page 14 Section 23 Large Track Cover Trim Installation Page 14 Section 24 Soffit / Ceiling Trim Installation Page Section 25 Transition Trim Installation Page 16 Section 26 Siding Panel Installation (General) Page Section 27 Siding Panel Installation (Full Length Panels) Page 17 Section 28 Siding Panel Installation (End-Lapping Panels) Page 17 Section 29 Siding Panel Installation (Wainscot Panels) Page 17 Section 30 Siding Panel Installation (Cutting Gable Panels) Page Section 31 Siding Panel Installation (Soffit Panels) Page 18 Section 32 Corner Trim Installation (Outside & Inside) Page 18 Summary 1

2 Introduction: These installation instructions are intended to offer general guidelines and recommendations for installing our steel roofing, siding and trim components and related metal building accessories. Certain conditions and circumstances may require additional steps and procedures during the installation process to insure the safe and efficient installation of our products. Read all instructions thoroughly before beginning any installation. Contact a Custom Metal representative if you have any questions regarding these instructions or the installation of our metal building components. GENERAL GUIDELINES & RECOMMENDATIONS Section 1 General Safety Precautions: Steel panel and trim edges are sharp and can cause severe cuts. Good quality leather-palm gloves should be worn when handling these materials. Safety glasses should be worn to prevent eye injury when cutting or drilling steel panels and trim with power tools. Cutting or drilling steel panels and trim with power tools causes hot sparks and shavings. Proper clothing should be worn to protect bare skin from exposure. Hot sparks and shavings can also damage the paint finish on adjoining panels and trim. Always cut away from or protect adjoining panels and trim. Steel panels that are wet or oil-film coated can be very slick. Extreme caution should be used when working or walking on these panels. Wearing soft, non-skid sole shoes is recommended for all roofing installation applications. Section 2 Storing & Handling Steel Panels & Trims: Steel panels and trim can draw and hold moisture between them when stacked together for an extended period of time. Therefore, the following precautions should be taken to protect the product finishes from damage. Always cover and protect steel panels and trim from rain and snow during transit. Galvanized / Galvalume panels and trim should be installed within 2 to 3 days after pick-up. If installation can not be completed within the recommended time, panels and trim must be separated and stored in a moisture-free indoor area. Stand the materials on end (on blocks) and fanned out at the bottom to provide air circulation around the materials, or lay the separated materials flat (on blocks) to protect them from ground moisture. Building liner panels and trim should be installed within 2 to 3 days after pick-up. If installation can not be completed within the recommended time, panels and trim must be separated and stored in the same manner as described above. Painted panels and trim should be installed within 2 to 3 weeks after pick-up. If installation can not be completed within the recommended time, panels and trim must be separated and stored in the same manner as described above. The edges of the steel panels and trim are sharp. Dragging the panels and trim across each other can scratch the painted surfaces. When removing a panel or trim from the shipping bundle, lift carefully to avoid damaging the paint finish. During installation, steel panels should be handled very carefully to avoid injury or damage to the panel. Panels that are over 15 feet in length should not be picked up or moved by the ends without adequate support through the middle of the panel. Improper handling of the steel panel can cause it to buckle in the middle resulting in kinks or creases across the panel. During installation, steel trims should be handled very carefully to avoid injury or damage to the trim. Trims with wide flat surfaces (ridge caps, flashings, corners, fascia & jamb covers) should not be picked up or moved by the ends without adequate support through the middle of the trim. Improper handling of these trims can cause them to buckle in the middle resulting in kinks or creases across the wide flat surfaces of the trim. The installation of steel panels and trims, particularly roofing applications, during windy conditions (wind speeds above 15 mph) should be avoided. 2

3 A corrosive chemical reaction occurs when galvanized steel components are installed in direct contact with aluminum components. Steel panels and trims that are damaged during transit or installation may not be returned to Custom Metal. ROOFING MATERIALS GUIDELINES & RECOMMENDATIONS Section 3 Valley Flashing Installation: When applicable, valley flashings should be installed prior to installing the roofing panels. Align the center bend of the valley flashing with the centerline of the valley framing. The valley flashing should extend 2 inches past the eave line at the bottom of the roof valley, and at least 12 inches past the adjoining roof ridge line(s) at the top of the roof valley. When end-lapping valley flashings is required, allow 8 to 12 inches of lap. Fasten the valley flashing to each roof purlin approximately 1 inch in from the outer edges of the flashing with 1 ¼ inch galvanized roofing nails. Cut the top of the valley flashing as required to bend it over the adjoining roof ridge(s) and fasten it to the roof purlins on the opposite side of the ridge(s) with 1 ¼ inch galvanized roofing nails. Section 4 Eave Trim Installation: When applicable, eave trims should be installed prior to installing the roofing panels. If the siding materials have been previously installed, position the eave trim to fit tightly against the outermost surfaces of the siding materials. If siding materials have not been previously installed, position the eave trim to allow for the thickness of the siding materials (i.e. Allow 1 inch for Hi-Rib siding panels). Fasten the eave trims securely to the lowest roof purlins with 1 ¼ inch galvanized roofing nails. Section 5 Side Fascia Trim Installation: Side fascia trims are used to cover flush fascia framing boards, or for buildings with side overhangs. When applicable, side fascia trims should be installed prior to installing the roofing panels. Position the side fascia trims to fit tightly against the face of the fascia framing boards. Fasten the side fascia trims securely to the lowest roof purlins with 1 ¼ inch galvanized roofing nails. When covering flush fascia framing boards, or when overhang soffit materials have been previously installed, the side fascia trims can also be fastened to the face of the fascia framing boards with 1 ¼ inch galvanized roofing nails for gutter applications, or color-matched screw fasteners if no gutters are planned for the building. If overhang soffit materials have not been installed, the side fascia trims should not be fastened to the face of the fascia framing boards at this time. Section 6 Eave (Inside) Closures Installation: Eave closures are used to close off the rib openings under the roofing panels at the eave line. They provide a weather-tight seal and help prevent small birds or animals from entering the building through the higher rib openings of the roofing panel. For best results, the eave closures should be installed prior to installing the roofing panels. Measure up on the roof 1 inch above the bend of the eave or side fascia trims and mark a pencil or chalk line. Our eave closures are designed for our 30 inch coverage width panels and can be installed individually with these panels. For our 20 and 40 inch coverage width panels, the eave closures will need to be installed so that the closure line extends to or beyond the under-lap edge of the next roofing panel being installed. Center each eave closure over the pencil or chalk line, making sure that the closure ribs will align with the ribs on the roofing panel. The eave closure can be temporarily held in position by applying a small bead of silicone caulk just above or below the pencil or chalk line. 3

4 Carefully position the roofing panel over the eave closure. Note: Dragging the roofing panel across the eave closure can damage the closure or cause it to shift out of its proper position. For best results, the screw fasteners securing the roofing panels should extend through the center of the eave closures, or as close to the eave closures as possible. An alternative method for installing the eave closures is to install the roofing panels first, then sliding the eave closures into position under the roofing panels. For this type of eave closure installation, the lower third of the roofing panels will need to remain unfastened until the eave closures are installed. Carefully lift the roofing panels at the eave and slide the eave closures into position under the roofing panels. Note: The roofing panels should only be lifted just enough to position the eave closures under them. Over-lifting the roofing panels can cause them to buckle at the point where they are fastened to the roof purlins. This method of installing the eave closures may not be practical for some roofing applications Section 7 Roofing Panel Installation (General): Our Hi-Rib panels are suitable for most roofing applications. For roof pitches that are lower than 3:12, we recommend that all panel lap joints be sealed with a high quality butyl caulk or our mastic lap tape (See Section 17 - Mastic Lap Tape Installation). Whenever possible, roofing panels should be installed so that all side lap edges are away from the prevailing wind. Note: The lapping rib of our Hi-Rib panel has a corrugated edge. Because of the side-lapping feature of our Hi-Rib panel, the roofing panels may be started from either end of the building. If ridge ventilation is desired, the top end of the roofing panels should be positioned 2 to 3 inches down from the center of the roof ridge (peak). We recommend using screw fasteners for the installation of all of the exposed surfaces of our steel panel and trim components (See Section 18 - Screw Fastener Installation). Section 8 Roofing Panel Installation (Full Length Panels): First, make sure that the roof framing is square and plumb with the gable end walls. Stretch a string or chalk line along the eave of the building, allowing for the desired distance of panel overhang at the eave (a minimum of 2 inches is recommended). Measure the full width, including the entire under-lap area, of the first roofing panel. Measure over from the gable edge of the roof framing, on the roof purlins at the ridge and eave, a distance equal to the full width of the first roofing panel allowing for the desired gable overhang of the panel, and make a pencil mark on the purlins. Note: If gable trims will be used, the roofing panel should be installed flush with the edge of the gable framing. Stretch a string or chalk line vertically between the marks on the ridge and eave purlins. Position the first roofing panel so that it aligns with both the eave and purlin (string or chalk line) lines. This will insure that the panel is straight and square with the roof framing. For best results, first fasten the roofing panel in one location at the top and bottom to hold it in the proper position. Check the panel alignment with the eave and purlin lines, then fasten the entire roofing panel with screw fasteners (See Section 18 - Screw Fastener Installation). Leave the eave string or chalk line in position until all roofing panels have been installed. Install each roofing panel across the roof, lapping completely over the last one inch high rib of the previously installed panel. Section 9 Roofing Panel Installation (End-Lapping Panels): Follow the first five steps in Section 8 Roofing Panel Installation (Full Length Panels). See illustration on next page to follow the proper installation pattern. 4

5 Position Panel 1 so that it aligns with both the eave and purlin (string or chalk line) lines. This will insure that the panel is straight and square with the roof framing. Fasten Panel 1 in one location near the top and at the bottom to hold it in position. Position Panel 2 above Panel 1 so that it end-laps Panel 1 and aligns with the purlin line. Note: Panel 2 should end-lap Panel 1 a distance of 8 to 12 inches. Fasten Panel 2 in one location at the top and bottom to hold it in position. Verify that Panel 1 and Panel 2 are end-lapped tightly and that they are properly aligned with both the eave and purlin (string or chalk line) lines. Completely fasten Panel 1 and Panel 2 to each roof purlin with screw fasteners (See Section 18 - Screw Fastener Installation). Leave the eave string or chalk line in place until all of the lower roofing panels have been installed. Position Panel 3 next to Panel 1 so that it aligns with the eave string or chalk line and side-laps completely over the last one inch high rib on Panel 1. Fasten Panel 3 in one location near the top and at the bottom next to the over-lapping one inch high rib to temporarily hold it in position. Position Panel 4 above Panel 3 and next to Panel 2 so that it properly end-laps Panel 3 and sidelaps completely over the last one inch high rib on Panel 2. Fasten Panel 4 in one location at the top and bottom next to the over-lapping one inch high rib to temporarily hold it in position. Verify that Panel 3 and Panel 4 are side-lapped and end-lapped tightly and properly aligned with Panel 1 and Panel 2. Completely fasten Panel 3 and Panel 4 to each purlin with screw fasteners (See Section 18 - Screw Fastener Installation). Install the remaining roofing panels in the same pattern and manner as described for Panels 1-4. Always verify panel alignment in each row and at the eave and ridge before completely fastening the roofing panels. Prevailing Wind End-Lapping Panel Installation Section 10 Roofing Panel Installation (Cutting Valley Panels): First, measure 3 inches out on both sides of the center bend of the valley flashing and make a pencil mark at the top and bottom ends of the flashing. Mark a pencil or chalk line between the pencil marks on both sides of the center bend. This will be the line that the bottom of the adjoining roofing panels will follow and will be used to determine the appropriate angle for cutting the roofing panels. 5

6 Measure down from the ridge line even with the top of the previous roofing panel to the pencil or chalk line on the same side of the valley flashing. Use this measurement to mark the over-lapping edge of the first valley roofing panel. Measure horizontally across the ridge line even with the top of the previous roofing panel a distance equal to the width of the first valley roofing panel and make a pencil mark on the top purlin, then measure the same distance horizontally across the closest roof purlin to the valley flashing and make a pencil mark. Use these pencil marks as a guide to measure straight down from the ridge line to the pencil or chalk line on the same side of the valley flashing. Use this measurement to mark the under-lapping edge of the first valley roofing panel. Lay the roofing panel flat on saw horses with the back side of the panel facing up. Note: We recommend laying cloth or foam strips across the tops of the saw horses to prevent scratching the paint finish on the front side of the panel. Use a construction level or other straight edge to mark a pencil line across the back side of the roofing panel between the two pencil marks on the edges of the panel. Cut along the pencil line with tin snips or other metal cutting tool. A circular power saw, with an older plywood or paneling blade inserted backwards, may also be used to cut the roofing panel. If the angle cut of the first valley roofing panel is straight and clean, the cut-off portion may be used as a guide or template for cutting the remaining roofing panels on that side of the valley. Note: To use this method for marking and cutting the valley roofing panels, measure the longest (under-lapping) edge of the previous panel, and use this measurement to mark the over-lapping edge of the next valley roofing panel. Fasten the valley roofing panels to each roof purlin, and to the valley flashing, with screw fasteners (See Section 18 Screw Fastener Installation). Seal the bottom end of all valley roofing panels to the valley flashing with a solid foam closure or a high quality butyl or silicone caulk to insure a proper weather-tight seal. Note: All panel rib openings must be fully sealed along the valley flashing. Section 11 Gable Trim Installation: Our standard gable trims are designed to fit over the first one inch high rib of the roofing panel at the gable edge and fasten in the adjacent flat area of the panel. Our standard gable trims are also designed to fasten flush against the outermost surface of the siding materials. Note: Gable trims may be altered to fit specific building designs or requirements. Temporarily position the gable trim over the roofing panel and against the end-wall siding materials. Note: If the end-wall siding materials have not been installed, the gable trim will need to be positioned to allow for the thickness of the siding materials. The gable trim may also be installed after siding materials are installed if preferred. If a mitered lap joint is desired at the gable peak, the gable trim on one side of the roof should extend to the center of the gable peak or roof ridge on the top side and beyond the peak on the face side. The gable trim on the other side of the roof should be temporarily positioned to extend to the center of the gable peak or roof ridge on the top and extend beyond the peak on the face side. Plumb down the face side of the gable trim from the center of the gable peak or roof ridge and mark a pencil line. Cut the face side of the gable trim along the pencil line with tin snips or other metal cutting tool. The gable trim should extend beyond the eave end of the roofing panel to allow for angle cutting the trim to match the face of the eave. Mark a pencil line across the top side of the gable trim even with the eave end of the roofing panel. Plumb down the face side of the gable trim from the eave end of the roofing panel and mark a pencil line. Note: The plumb line on the face of the gable trim should be parallel to the face of the eave. Cut the gable trim along the pencil lines with tin snips or other metal cutting tool. 6

7 When all required cuts have been made to the gable trims, they can be permanently installed on the building. Fasten the top side outer flange of the gable trim to each roof purlin in the flat area of the adjacent roofing panel with screw fasteners. Fasten the face side outer flange of the gable trim to the outermost surface(s) of the siding materials (if installed) with screw fasteners. Note: For best results, the face side fasteners on the gable trim should align with the roof side fasteners. When end-lapping of gable trims is required, they should be lapped in the same manner as the roofing panels. Section 12 End Fascia Trim Installation: Our end fascia trims are used to cover flush fascia framing boards and for buildings with end overhangs. Our standard end fascia trims are designed to fit flat over, and fasten to, the top of the first one inch high rib of the adjacent roofing panel; but can also be designed to fit over the first one inch high rib and fasten in the flat area of the adjacent roofing panel in the same manner as gable trims. End fascia trims should be temporarily positioned, marked and cut in the same manner as gable trims (See Section 11 Gable Trim Installation). Permanently fasten the top side of the end fascia trim to the adjacent roofing panel at each roof purlin with screw fasteners. When covering flush fascia framing boards, or when overhang soffit materials have been previously installed, the end fascia trims can also be fastened to the face of the fascia framing boards with screw fasteners. If overhang soffit materials have not been previously installed, the end fascia trims should not be fastened to the face of the fascia framing boards at this time. Section 13 Ridge Cap Installation: Whenever possible, ridge caps should be installed so that all end-laps are away from the prevailing wind. If ridge closures and/or Posi-Vent venting closures will be used, they should be installed prior to permanently installing the ridge caps (See Section 15 - Ridge Closures Installation or Section 16 - Posi-Vent Universal Venting Closure Installation). Align the center bend of the ridge cap directly over the center line of the roof ridge (peak). Fasten the ridge cap with screw fasteners through the center of each one inch high rib of the roofing panels on both sides of the roof ridge, one inch up from the outer edges of the ridge cap. Note: When ridge closures are used, the ridge cap screw fasteners should extend through the center of the closure strip. When Posi-Vent closures are used, the ridge cap screw fasteners should extend through the Posi-Vent closure just above the ½ inch foam adhesive strip. Ridge caps should be end-lapped a minimum of 4 to 6 inches. Section 14 Flashing Installation: A. General: Flashings are required for all square or rectangular protrusions through the roof surface (chimneys, chases, dormers, etc.), and where the roofing panels abut adjacent walls of an adjoining building. B. Flashing around protruding structures: When roofing panels will be installed above where a chimney, chase or other such protruding structure is located, a standard flashing should be installed under the roofing panel(s) and against the top sidewall of the protruding structure. The flashing should extend at least 6 inches beyond the outside corners of the protruding structure. Note: This extended flashing will be cut as required and bent over the adjoining side flashings on each side of the protruding structure. Fasten the flashing securely to the top sidewall of the protruding structure and to the roof purlin under the roofing panel(s). 7

8 Install eave (inside) closures between the roofing panel(s) and the flashing to provide a weathertight seal (See Section 6 Eave (Inside) Closures Installation). Fasten the roofing panel(s) through the closure and flashing and into the roof purlin with screw fasteners. Next, install a standard flashing against the bottom sidewall of the protruding structure and over the adjoining roofing panel(s) below the protruding structure. The flashing should extend at least 6 inches beyond the bottom outside corners of the protruding structure. Cut the flashing along the bend on each end back to the outside corners of the protruding structure and bend the upper portion of the flashing around to each side of the protruding structure. Install ridge (outside) closures between the flashing and the roofing panel(s) to provide a weather-tight seal (See Section 15 Ridge (Outside) Closures Installation). Fasten the upper portion of the flashing securely to the bottom sidewall and each side of the protruding structure. Fasten the lower portion of the flashing through the closures and through the center of each one inch high rib of the roofing panel(s) with screw fasteners. Next, install the vertical wall flashings (See illustration below) along the sides of the protruding structure. Vertical Wall Flashing Cut the top ends of the vertical wall flashings even with the top outside corners of the protruding structure. Cut the upper portion of the bottom ends of the vertical wall flashings even with the bottom outside corners of the protruding structure. The lower portion of the bottom ends of the vertical wall flashings should extend over the top of the bottom flashing (previously installed) and to its lowest edge. Fasten the upper portion of the vertical wall flashings securely to the sides of the protruding structure. Fasten the lower portion of the vertical wall flashings through the outer flange and into the flat area of the adjacent roofing panels with screw fasteners. Cut the extended ends of the top flashing as required to bend around and over the top ends of the vertical wall flashings. Fasten as required to the vertical wall flashings. Seal all flashing joints, cracks, laps and the top edge on the protruding structure with a high quality butyl or silicone caulk. C. Flashing along horizontal (top-abutting) adjacent walls: When the top ends of the roofing panels abut the adjacent wall of an adjoining building, a standard flashing is required. Measure the width of the lower portion of the flashing and deduct one inch. Using this measurement, measure down from the adjacent wall onto the abutting roofing panels. Mark a pencil or chalk line across the roofing panels. Install ridge (outside) closures centered over the pencil or chalk line to provide a weather-tight seal between the flashing and the roofing panels. 8

9 Position the flashing against the adjacent wall and over the abutting roofing panels. Fasten the upper portion of the flashing securely to the adjacent wall. Note: When possible, the upper portion of the flashing should be installed behind the siding materials on the adjacent wall. If this is not possible, the top edge of the flashing will need to be sealed against the siding materials with a high quality butyl or silicone caulk. Fasten the lower portion of the flashing through the center of the closures and into the center of each one inch high rib on the abutting roofing panels with screw fasteners. When flashings are end-lapped, a minimum of 4 to 6 inches of lap is recommended. D. Flashing along vertical (side-abutting) adjacent walls: When the vertical (side) edge of the roofing panels abut an adjacent wall of the building, a vertical wall flashing is required. Fasten the upper portion of the vertical wall flashing securely to the adjacent wall (See above note). Fasten the lower portion of the vertical wall flashing along the outer flange into the flat area of the abutting roofing panels. When vertical wall flashings are end-lapped, a minimum of 4 to 6 inches of lap is recommended. Section 15 Ridge (Outside) Closures Installation: Ridge (Outside) Closures are used to provide a weather-tight seal under ridge caps and flashings. Our ridge closures fit our steel panel design and have an adhesive strip on the panel side of the closure to hold them temporarily in position until the ridge caps or flashings are installed. Measure up one inch from where the outer edge of the ridge cap or flashing will be when installed and mark a pencil line or chalk line across the roofing panels. Remove the paper protector from the adhesive strip, center the closure over the pencil or chalk line, and press the closure firmly against the roofing panels. Position the ridge caps or flashings carefully over the ridge closures to avoid damaging or shifting the closures. Fasten the ridge caps or flashings so that the screw fasteners extend through the center of the ridge closures at the center of each one inch high rib of the roofing panels. Section 16 Posi-Vent Universal Venting Closure Installation: The Posi-Vent closure is designed to provide a weather-tight seal while allowing passive ventilation at the roof ridge of the building. The Posi-Vent closure comes in rolls of 25 feet. Measure up 1 ½ inches from where the outer edge of the ridge cap or flashing will be when installed and mark a pencil line or chalk line across the roofing panels. Determine the length of Posi-Vent closure required (see product literature for calculation formula to determine ventilation requirements). Add 6 to 8 inches per roofing panel to the total length of the closure material to allow for following the contour of the panel and cut the total required length from the Posi-Vent roll. Note: Do not stretch the Posi-Vent closure material during cutting or installation. With the adhesive side down toward the roofing panels and the ½ inch foam strip toward the outer edge of the ridge cap, center the Posi-Vent closure over the pencil or chalk line marked on the roofing panels. Remove the protective covers from the adhesive strips a little at a time to avoid the Posi-Vent closure from sticking to unwanted surfaces, and press the closure firmly against all surfaces and following the contour of the roofing panels (See illustration at the top of page 10). 9

10 Fasten the ridge caps so that the screw fasteners extend through the Posi-Vent closure just above the ½ inch foam strip at the center of each one inch high rib of the roofing panels. Section 17 Mastic Lap Tape Installation: A. General: Mastic Lap Tape is used to provide an additional weather-tight seal for steel panel and trim lap joints Mastic Lap Tape is strongly recommended on all roofing panel and trim lap joints for roof pitches that are lower than 3:12. Particularly in warm weather conditions, the mastic lap tape adheres immediately to steel surfaces. Make sure that the steel panels and trim are properly positioned and aligned before contacting the mastic lap tape. Steel panels and trim can not be easily moved or shifted after they contact and adhere to the mastic lap tape. Mastic Lap Tape is not intended to replace screw fasteners. Screw fasteners must be installed in accordance with applicable sections of these instructions on all steel panels and trim where mastic lap tape is applied. B. Side-lapping roofing panels: Roll out the mastic lap tape along the center of the one inch high under-lap rib of the roofing panel, making sure that the protective paper cover remains in place until the over-lapping roofing panel is ready to be installed. When ready, remove the protective paper cover from the mastic lap tape and position the overlap rib of the over-lapping roofing panel directly over the under-lap rib of the under-lapping panel. When the over-lapping roofing panel is properly positioned, press the over-lap rib firmly against the mastic lap tape. C. End-lapping roofing panels: Roll out the mastic lap tape horizontally across the under-lapping roofing panel following the contour of the panel at approximately one inch up from where the end of the over-lapping roofing panel will be positioned when installed. Remove the protective paper cover from the mastic lap tape and align the end of the over-lapping roofing panel with the under-lapping roofing panel. When the over-lapping roofing panel is properly positioned, press the end of the panel firmly against the mastic lap tape. D. Roofing Trims: Roll out the mastic lap tape along the center of the under-side of the outer trim flange. For end-lapping trims, roll out the mastic lap tape along the under-side of the lapping trim one inch from the over-lapping end. Remove the protective paper cover from the mastic lap tape and position the trim over the adjacent roofing panel and aligned with the adjoining under-lap trim (if applicable). When the trim is properly positioned and aligned, press the trim flange firmly against the roofing panel, and press the over-lapping end of the trim firmly against the adjoining under-lapping trim. 10

11 Section 18 Screw Fastener Installation: A. General: Use No. 10 SLT Self-Piercing Screws for wood frame buildings. Use No. 12 SDS Self-Drilling TEK Screws for steel frame buildings. Tighten all screw fasteners snugly against the panel or trim to provide a weather-tight seal to the metal surface. Note: Do not over-tighten the screw fasteners. Over-tightening can damage the rubber washer and prevent it from providing the proper weather-tight seal. A string or chalk line stretched horizontally across the roofing or siding panels at each purlin or girt may be used to keep the screw fasteners in a straight line. B. Fastening steel panels: Install screw fasteners in the flat areas of the panel next to each one inch high rib, between the bottom angle of the rib and the edge of the gear pattern, across each roof purlin or sidewall girt (See illustration below). Over-Lapping Edge of Panel Roof Purlins Or Sidewall Girts Screw Fastener Locations C. Fastening ridge caps and flashings: Install screw fasteners one inch from the outer edges of the ridge caps or flashings at the center of each one inch high rib on the roofing panels. D. Fastening corner, gable and fascia trims: Install screw fasteners in the center of the outer trim flange at each roof purlin or sidewall girt. Section 19 Flashers Flexible Pipe Flashing Installation: Flashers Flexible Pipe Flashings are used to seal around all round pipes protruding through the roof surface. Flashers are available in sizes to fit pipes up to 19 inches in diameter. Cut the upper boot to the required pipe diameter marked on Flashers (this is approximately 20% smaller than the diameter of the pipe). Slide the Flashers down the pipe, using water to lubricate if necessary. Form and bend the aluminum base of the Flashers to fit the surface and contour of the roofing panel. Seal the Flashers by applying a bead of urethane or silicone sealant (caulk) between the base of the Flashers and the surfaces of the roofing panel. Use a large slot-head screwdriver or heavy duty putty knife to press the base of the Flashers down tightly against the roofing panel. Fasten the base of the Flashers to the roofing panel with screw fasteners. 11

12 SIDING MATERIALS GUIDELINES & RECOMMENDATIONS Section 20 Base Trim Installation: Base trims are used to provide a level horizontal ledge for the bottom of the siding panels to rest on during installation, and to close off the rib openings at the bottom of the panels. Install all base trim prior to installing siding panels. Determine where the bottom of the siding panels will be when installed. This is usually approximately 2 to 3 inches below the top of the framing baseboard or the top of the building foundation. However, another position may be used as long as none of the metal components permanently contact the surrounding soil at any point. Stretch a string or chalk line horizontally across the desired position for the bottom of the siding panels. Position the base trim so that the horizontal ledge of the trim is even with the string or chalk line. Fasten the base trim to the building framing with 1 ¼ inch galvanized roofing nails. Base trims should be butted together at the ends, not over-lapped. If base trims will not be used, the bottom of the siding panels will be installed even with the string or chalk line. A 2 X 4 framing board temporarily fastened horizontally with the top edge even with the string or chalk line may also be used as a guide to position the siding panels during installation, and maintain a straight line across the bottom of the building walls. Note: If base trims will not be used, eave (inside) closures are recommended along the bottom of the siding panels, between the panels and building framing, to provide a weather-tight seal and help prevent rodents and other pests from entering the building through the rib openings at the bottom of the panels. Section 21 J-Channel Trim Installation: A. General: J-Channel trims are used to provide a weather-tight seal and finished appearance along the edges of the siding panels where they meet with various wall obstructions such as door openings, door frames, window frames and other such openings in the wall structure. Note: For some siding installation applications, j-channel trims may also be used along the top of the siding panels, or where the side edge of the siding panel abuts the previously finished wall of an adjoining building. Install all j-channel trims prior to installing siding panels. J-Channel trims should be butted together at the ends, not over-lapped. Where j-channel trims will be adjoined at a right angle, the outer (face) flange of the trim may be over-lapped or miter cut, whichever is preferred by the installer. B. Around windows and other such wall obstructions: When installing j-channel trims around windows and other such wall obstructions, always install the trim along the bottom of the obstruction first, then along each side, then across the top. Measure across the bottom of the outer frame of the window or wall obstruction and add 2 inches to this measurement to allow for over-lapping or miter-cutting. Cut the required length of j-channel trim. Measure one inch in from each end of the cut length of j-channel trim and make a pencil mark on the front (face) flange and back (mounting flange of the trim. Cut along both bends at both ends of the j-channel trim to the pencil marks on the front and back flanges, and remove the one inch portion of the middle flange of the trim. For mitered joints, use a carpenter s combination square (45 degree angle) and mark a pencil line from the one inch pencil mark across the front flange of the j-channel trim to the end of the trim. Cut the front flange along the 45 degree pencil line. Position the j-channel trim tightly against the bottom outer frame of the window or wall obstruction and temporarily fasten it to the building framing. Next, measure along the outer frame on each side of the window or wall obstruction and add 2 inches to the measurements for over-lapping or miter-cutting. Cut the required length of j-channel trim for each side. 12

13 Measure one inch in from each end of the side j-channel trims and make pencil marks as described above. Cut along both bends at both ends of the side j-channel trims as described above. Remove the one inch portion of the middle flange at the top ends of the trims, but leave the one inch portion of the middle flange at the bottom ends of the trims. Note: This portion will be folded over the middle flange of the bottom j-channel trim. Mark and cut the miters on both ends of the side j-channel trims as described above. Position the side j-channel trims tightly against the side outer frames of the window or wall obstruction, and temporarily fasten them to the building framing. Then, measure across the top outer frame of the window or wall obstruction and add 2 inches to the measurement for over-lapping or miter-cutting. Cut the required length of j-channel trim. Measure one inch in from each end of the trim and make pencil marks as described above. Cut along both bends at both ends of the top j-channel trim as described above, but do not remove the one inch portion of the middle flange on either end of the trim. Note: These portions will be folded over the middle flanges of the side j-channel trims. Position the top j-channel trim tightly against the top outer frame of the window or wall obstruction and temporarily fasten it to the building framing. When all j-channel trims are in position, check all lap or miter joints for proper fit and make sure that all trims are tight against the window or wall obstruction frames. Then, permanently fasten all trims securely to the building framing with 1 ¼ inch galvanized roofing nails. Bend all one inch middle flange portions over the middle flanges of the adjoining trims. C. Around door openings, door frames and other such wall openings: When installing j-channel trims around door openings, door frames or other such wall openings, follow the steps described above for preparing and installing side and top j-channel trims. D. Across the top of siding panels: When j-channel trims are installed under gable / eave fascia trims or under previously finished soffits, the j-channel trims should be positioned tightly against the adjacent trim or soffit surface. When j-channel trims are installed under open eaves or other such building applications, the j- channel trims should be positioned approximately ¼ inch above where the top of the siding panels will be when installed. E. Along a previously finished wall of an adjoining building: Install the j-channel trims tightly against the outermost surface(s) of the siding materials on the adjoining wall. If necessary, fill any gaps between the j-channel trims and the siding materials on the adjoining wall with a high quality butyl or silicone caulk, or other weather resistant gasket material. Section 22 Overhead Door & Jamb Cover Trim Installation: A. General: Overhead door and jamb cover trims are used to cover exposed wood jambs and frames around door openings. Overhead door and jamb cover trims are usually custom designed to fit specific door and building framing applications. In most building applications, overhead door and jamb cover trims should be installed prior to installing j-channel trims and siding panels, but may also be designed to be installed afterward. B. Overhead door trims: Measure the side frames of the overhead door frame structure from the bottom to the top edge of the top frame. This is the total required lengths of the side trims. Next measure from the bottom of the side frames to the bottom inside edge of the top frame. Use this measurement to mark a pencil line across the inner flange of the side overhead door trims. Cut along the pencil line and along the inner bend of the trim to remove this portion of the inner flange. Position the side overhead door trims tightly against the side frames of the overhead door frame structure and verify that they fit properly. The outer flanges of the trim should over-lap the outer surfaces of the top door frame. 13

14 Fasten the side overhead door trims securely to the side door framing with screw fasteners. Measure the top frame of the overhead door frame structure from the outside edge of one side frame to the outside edge of the other side frame. This is the total required length of the top trim. Next, measure the inner surface of the top frame of the overhead door frame structure from the inside edge of one side frame to the inside edge of the other side frame. Deduct this measurement from the total length of the top trim and divide the difference by two. Use this divided measurement to measure in from each end of the top trim on the inner flange of the trim. Mark a pencil line across the inner flange on both ends. Cut along the pencil lines and along the inner bends of the trim to remove these portions of the inner flange. Position the top overhead door trim tightly over the top overhead door frame and verify that it fits properly. The outer flanges of the trim should over-lap the tops of the side overhead door trims. The inner flange of the top trim should fit tightly against the tops of the inner flanges of the side trims. Fasten the top overhead door trim securely to the top frame of the overhead door frame structure. If necessary, seal all laps and joints of the overhead door trims with a high quality butyl or silicone caulk. C. Jamb cover trims: In most applications particularly around door openings for sliding doors, jamb cover trims should be installed prior to installing j-channel trims and siding panels along the edges of the door opening. Measure, cut, position and fasten jamb cover trims in the same manner as described above for overhead door trims. For some sliding door framing applications, top jamb cover trims may not be practical or desired. Section 23 Large Track Cover Trim Installation: Large track cover trims are used to cover and provide a rain shield over sliding door tracks and track mounting framing. Install large track cover trims prior to installing siding panels. Large track cover trims should be end-lapped 4 to 6 inches. Position the large track cover trim over the sliding door track and track mounting framing and tightly against the adjacent wall framing. Fasten the top flange of the large track cover trim securely to the wall framing with 1 ¼ inch galvanized roofing nails. 14

15 Section 24 Soffit / Ceiling Trim Installation: Soffit / Ceiling trim is used at the point where the top of the siding panels and the inside end / edge of soffit panels meet against the sidewall of the building. There are two methods for installing the soffit / ceiling trim (See illustrations below). Soffit / Ceiling trims should be butted together at the ends, not over-lapped. Soffit / Ceiling Trim Illustration 1 As shown in Illustration 1 above, the mounting flange of the soffit / ceiling trim is fastened to the sidewall framing of the building. In this type of installation, the siding panels are installed up into the j-channel portion of the soffit / ceiling trim and the soffit panels, which need to be one inch shorter, are laid on top of the L shaped leg of the trim (even with the bottom of the fascia framing board). Note: This type of installation is not recommended for buildings located where windy conditions are prevalent (See Illustration 2 on page 16).The soffit panels would need to be fastened against the top of the L shaped leg of the soffit /ceiling trim. If Hi-Rib panels are used for soffit panels, the soffit panels can be fastened to the soffit / ceiling trim flange with screw fasteners or pop rivets through the one inch high ribs of the soffit panels. The soffit panels are also typically fastened to the bottom edge of the fascia framing board with screw fasteners in the flat areas of the panels. To position the soffit / ceiling trims, level across from the bottom edge of the fascia framing board to the sidewall of the building and make a pencil mark at each end of the building wall. Stretch a string or chalk line between the pencil marks. Position the soffit / ceiling trims so that the top flange of the j-channel portion of the trim is even with the string or chalk line Fasten the mounting flange of the soffit / ceiling trim securely to the sidewall framing with 1 ¼ inch galvanized roofing nails. 15

16 Soffit / Ceiling Trim Illustration 2 As shown in Illustration 2 above, the mounting flange of the soffit /ceiling trim is installed level with the bottom edge of the fascia framing board. In this type of installation, the siding panels, which need to be one inch shorter, are installed behind the L shaped flange of the soffit / ceiling channel, and the soffit panels, which are full length, are installed into the j-channel portion of the trim. Note: This type of installation is recommended for buildings located where windy conditions are prevalent. The soffit panels do not need to be fastened to the soffit / ceiling trim. The soffit panels are only fastened to the bottom edge of the fascia framing board with screw fasteners in the flat areas of the soffit panels. Level and position the soffit / ceiling trims as described above. Fasten the soffit / ceiling trims securely against the sidewall framing of the building through the end or top flange of the j-channel portion of the trim with screw fasteners. Section 25 Transition Trim Installation: Transition trims are used where there is a horizontal siding material or siding color change on the sidewalls of the building (i.e. where metal siding horizontally abuts wood siding, wainscoting applications, etc.). Install lower siding materials or wainscot siding panels prior to installing the transition trims. Position the transition trims so that the bottom flange of the trim is over the top end / edge of the lower siding materials or wainscot siding panels. Note: A string or chalk line may be used to insure that the transition trims are level across the side of the building, if necessary. Fasten the top flange of the transition trims to the wall framing with 1 ¼ inch galvanized roofing nails. The ends of the transition trims should be butted together, not over-lapped. The upper siding panels will be installed so that the bottom end of the panels rest flush against the horizontal flange of the transition trims. Section 26 Siding Panel Installation (General): Our Hi-Rib panels are suitable for most siding applications. For siding applications where there will not be a lot of traffic or livestock around the sides of the building, our lighter (29 Gauge) panels may be used. For siding applications where there will be a lot of traffic or livestock around the sides of the building, we recommend our heavier (26 or 24 Gauge) panels. Whenever possible, siding panels should be installed so that all side laps are away from the primary focal point of the building. Note: The lapping rib of our Hi-Rib panel has a corrugated edge. 16