Ford Focus ST 250 fitting Instructions

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1 Ford Focus ST 250 fitting Instructions

2 Tools Required: T2 Torx T30 Torx Flat blade screw driver 6mm socket 7mm socket 10mm socket 13mm socket Trolley jack Axle stands Car lift Note: It will be easier to carry out the work required if the car can be lifted off the ground by a car lift as this will allow both wheels to be removed at the same time, if a car lift is not available it would be worthwhile to lift both front wheels of the floor using a trolley jack and axle stands. Please use extreme care when lifting or jacking up any car and make sure that the car is safe before working on it

3 Stage 1 removal of the bumper, wheel arch liners and air ducts. 1. Once the car has been jacked up or lifted by a car lift remove both front wheels to allow access to the plastic wheel arch liners. 2. Remove the 2 T30 Torx head screws from either side of bumper (next to head lights) 3. Remove both T30 Torx screws that are holding the head lights in place, unclip the large connector at the back of each head light and remove the head light unit, you may need to pull the bumper forward for the head light to clear. 4. Disconnect the bonnet cable using a flat bladed screw driver 5. Remove the 4 black plastic plugs on top of the bumper using a flat bladed screw driver 6. Once this has been done move to under the wheel arch to remove the 2 x T30 Torx screws at the bottom of the bumper in front of the wheels, then move around the wheel arch undoing the rest of the T30 Torx screws that hold the wheel liner in place. 7. Using a flat bladed screw driver remove the 2 plastic clips holding the wheel arch liner to the bumper and then pull the plastic wheel arch liner from out of position allowing the bumper to move forward. 8. Once the wheel arch liner is free reach inside the passenger side wheel arch to unclip the fog light connector that is attached to the bumper 9. Release the 2 plastic clips carefully and pull the bumper forward to remove. 10. Remove the 2 T30 Torx screws holding the plastic air duct from the crash bar and unclip from underneath.

4 11. Unclip the 2 metal clips holding the top air duct in Removing the standard intercooler 12. Undo the 2 M8 bolts located underneath the intercooler 13. Using a 7mm socket or flat bladed screw driver loosen the jubilee clips at either end of the intercooler and unclip the MAP sensor cable 14. On the cradle underneath the intercooler loosen the 4 M8 bolts that hold the cradle on, do not remove these bolts only loosen them enough to allow the intercooler to be removed 15. Unclip the active ducting wiring harness and lift the plastic ducting upwards to unclip from the radiator 16. Once the intercooler is removed remove the T20 Torx screw from the MAP sensor and then carefully remove the MAP sensor.

5 Fitting Your new Peron Intercooler 17.Note: At this point it is easier if 2 people can locate the intercooler into place to avoid any damage. 18. Retighten the back 2 bolts on the cradle and the front right hand side bolt that were loosed of earleir to remove the standard intercooler, once these are tight remove the front left hand side bolt, we will be replacing this bolt later with the longer bolts supplied (see fig 1) 19. Remove the horn bracket on the drivers side of the car, this will allow us to fit the left hand side mounting bolt for the new intercooler (see fig 2) 20. Fit the 2 new bolts, washers and spacers supplied please note that the 10mm spacer is to be fitted to the drivers side of the car (right hand side) and the 20mm spacer to the left hand side.

6 21. It is now time to locate the intercooler into position, before fitting the inetrcooler make sure that the Map sensor has been fitted using the M6 x 16mm allen bolt supplied slide the intercooler ducting under the crash beam and push the intecooler back into postion using the new fixings supplied. 20mm spacer New bracket to hold electrical connector Fig 1 (left hand side) 10mm spacer Fig 2 (Right hand side)

7 22. Once you have located the Intercooler use the adjustment on the brackets to make sure that the intercooler is central 23. Slide the new electrical connector bracket in between the intercooler and spacer, re fit the electrical connector and tighten bolt (see fig 1) 24. Slacken of the bolt that secures the water bottle and slide the new horn bracket in between the body and plastic bottle (see fig 3) New electrical connector bracket Loosen this bolt to allow bracket to slide behind Fig Once this has been done re fit the horn bracket as shown and re tighten all bolts. 26. The intercooler is now fitted and secure, refit both boost hoses and retighten the clips that secure the boost hoses to the intercooler taking care not to over tighten the clips. 27. Re fit the MAP sensor wiring to the MAP sensor.

8 Top Tip The right hand side boost hose clip can be difficult to secure correctly you may find it easier if you enlarge the hole in the cradle to allow you to line up the clip with a screw driver to tighten (see fig 4) Enlarge this hole to allow tightening of the clamp Fig Once all clamps and bolts are tight and the intercooler is central it will be time to refit the bumper, headlights, wheel arch liners etc so please reverse steps 1 to 11 to re fit the car, please not the original air ducting is no longer required. 29. Once the car has been fitted back together, warm the car up on the road to the correct operating temperature and steadily increase the boost to make sure that all hoses are correctly fitted and do not blow off.

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