TAKE HOME BAZ: ANGELA & HARRY

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1 TAKE HOME BAZ: ANGELA & HARRY Everyone has a few DIY jobs that need doing at home, but many of us just don t know where to start. That's exactly when you need to Take Home Barry. This week, Barry meets Angela and Harry, a mum and son team who are lost when it comes to repairs around the home. But with a little bit of help from Barry and his right hand man, chippie Dylan, they tackle a tired bathroom vanity, a torn fly screen door and holes in their hardwood floors.

2 JOB #1: FLYSCREEN DOOR REPAIR Before After What you ll need: - Screwdriver - Drill - Roll of replacement fly screen mesh - Scrap timber to block door - Pot rivets - Rivet gun - Dustpan brush - Stanley knife

3 Step 1: Start by placing some scrap timber underneath the door to prop it up and take pressure off the hinges. Step 2: Using a drill set to reverse and a Philips Head bit, unscrew the existing screws from the doorframe, starting with the bottom. Remove the door from the hinges. Step 3: Most screen doors (including Angela s) hold the fly screen in between two plates that make up the frame of the door. The plates are held together by pot rivets. The only way to get pot rivets off is to drill through them. Use a small bit to drill through the rivets. Be sure to hold the drill at 90 degrees to the rivets. There may be debris in the holes once you have drilled through the rivets. Use the same drill bit to clean out the debris by running the drill in the hole for a few seconds. Step 4: Once the frame has been removed from the door, discard the damaged fly screen and use the dustpan brush to remove any extra dust or dirt. Roll out the new fly screen mesh right on top of the doorframe. Ensure that the mesh hangs over the entire frame the door. Step 5: Place the frame pieces back on the door on top of the fly screen mesh. Line up the holes on the frame with the holes on the door all the way around the door. Also ensure that your fly screen is held taught across the door.

4 Step 6: Once all lined up, use the drill to make holes in the fly screen mesh where the rivets will fit through. Hold the frame together and the mesh taught. Using a rivet gun, insert rivets to secure the door and frame together. Step 7: After the door and frame are reattached with the new fly screen mesh, use a Stanley knife to cut away the excess mesh around the door. Step 8: Use the drill to insert the screws through the hinges and fasten the door back in place. Use spacers if needed under the hinges to ensure your door opens and closes cleanly and sits square in the doorframe.

5 FLYSCREEN DOOR MATERIALS COURTESY OF BUNNINGS CODE Aluminium Flat Bar 25x3mm 3m Metalmate $ Aluminium Flywire 910mm 10m $ Petmesh 910mm x 6.15m Anodised Aluminium Square Tube -1.2m Cyclone Insect Screen Connect-It Anodised Aluminium Square Tube 0.45m Connect-It $ Straight cut Aviation Snips Irwin $ Heavy Duty Contractor Rivet Gun Stanley $ Aluminium Rivets 5/32 - Diameter 1/2 Zenith $9.48 BRAND *prices may vary For more information visit RRP $92.00 $10.43

6 JOB #2: BATHROOM VANITY REPAIR Before After What you ll need: - Drill - Poly stripper - Sandpaper - Timber polyurethane varnish - Shifting spanner - Screwdriver - Masking tape - Paint brush - Scraper - Damp cloth Step 1: Begin by disassembling the existing vanity. This will include unscrewing all hinges of cabinet doors and removing the outer timber shell of the vanity. You will also have to remove the sink from the vanity. To do this, first ask your plumber to detach all plumbing. Use a Stanley knife to cut through any silicone sealer between the sink and top surface of the vanity. Step 2: Remove all the affected timber and move to a new location for repair. Remove the hinges and handles from the doors with a screwdriver and masking tape the edges so the paint stripper doesn t damage the inside of the vanity doors.

7 Step 3: Instead of using tools or sanders to repair the vanity, Dylan uses a poly stripper to strip back the damaged timber. Simply brush on in 1-2 mm layers, wait 30 minutes and remove the residue with a scraper. Step 4: Once the varnish has been removed, use a damp cloth to get rid of the remaining residue. The poly stripper is water based so should remove easily. Step 5: Once all the stripper residue is removed, give the entire piece a light sand with a high grit sandpaper ( grit). Remember to always sand with the grain of the timber. Keep wiping the dust off the timber until the timber feels smooth. Step 4: Give the timber two coats of polyurethane varnish. Remember not to apply too much varnish and to keep the coats even and with the grain of the timber. Step 5: After the varnish has dried, reassemble the vanity by reattaching all handles, hinges, fixtures and the basin itself.

8 BATHROOM VANITY - MATERIALS COURTESY OF BUNNINGS CODE BRAND RRP Above Counter Basin 1TH Caroma $ Water Based Polyurethane Varnish 1L Satin Cabots $ Low Sheen Ultraclear Timber Finish 1L Intergrain $ Sanding Sponge 117x68x26mm 180 grit 3M $ Synthetic Paint Brushes 2 pack Shur-line $ Sandpaper for Painted surfaces 115mx5m 180 grit Flexovit $ Sanding Sponge 160x116x5mm 320 grit 3M $ ABC Plastic Scraper 50mm Pure Line $ Polystrippa Active 500ml Selleys $ Gloss Oil Based Polyurethane Aerosol - 300g $ m square Glass Finish Cabots Feast Watson *prices may vary For more information visit $51.65

9 JOB #3:TIMBER FLOOR HOLE REPAIR Before After What you ll need: - Wood putty or filler of various colours to match the existing floor - Light sand paper - Wooden dowel the same width of the hole - Pencil - Putty knife - Handsaw Step 1: Before using the putty, bear in mind that the ideal depth for putty is 2 to 6 mm. As putty is water based, it will shrink in the hole if any deeper than 6mm. Begin by wiping down the entire area to clear it of dust and debris. Step 2: To create a base for the putty, place the dowel into the hole until it hits a firm base. Mark the depth of the hole on the dowel with a pencil. Measure back 4 mm as the guide for the depth of the putty this will act as the base for the filler.

10 Step 3: After the base is measured on the dowel, cut off the piece with a handsaw. Once cut off, drop the dowel into the hole. Step 4: Scoop out a moderate amount of putty. Work or kneed it in the palm of your hand to warm it up. This will activate the chemicals and make it more malleable and easier to work with. Work the putty it into the hole or imperfection with your fingers, wipe off excess putty with a putty knife and wipe the area down with a damp cloth again to finish. Tip: Depending on the type of timber in the floor, you can mix and match different coloured putty to get the closest match to your floor. But remember timber isn t perfect so matching exactly might be a challenge!

11 TIMBER FLOOR MATERIALS COURTESY OF BUNNINGS CODE Radiata/Baltic Wood blend Putty Hardwood Wood Filler BRAND RRP Intergrain $11.80 Timbermate $8.26 Cypress Mul-T-Fill Ready to Use Filler 140g Earls $ Cypress Mul-T-Fill Ready to Use Filler 140g Earls $ Ebony Mul-T-Fill Ready to Use Filler 140g Earls $ Teak/Blackwood Wood blend Putty Intergrain $ Walnut Mul-T-Fill Ready to Use Filler 140g Earls $ Dovetail Saw 185mm Irwin $19.90 *prices may vary For more information visit WEBSITES Bunnings Warehouse

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