Adriabike. The Upper Adriatic cycling route. Kranjska Gora, Koper, Trieste, Venice, Ravenna

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1 Adriabike The Upper Adriatic cycling route Kranjska Gora, Koper, Trieste, Venice, Ravenna 1

2 Publishing organisation: APT della Provincia di Venezia: Paola Basso with the collaboration of Larisa Kunst and Diego Gallo Cartography: R. Rossi, Cirgeo Unipd F. Pedrazzoli, Ediciclo Photographs: Archivio fotografico Interbike (M. Danesin, A. Ziraldo, D. Gallo), Archivio fotografico APT Venezia Archivio fotografico Provincia di Venezia (M. Fletzer) Archivio Turismo Padova Terme Euganee by courtesy of the Comune di Padova-Assessorato alla Cultura Archivio fotografico Provincia di Rovigo (S. Lunardi) Archivio fotografico GAL Polesine Delta del Po (L. Calzolari) Archivio fotografico Provincia di Ravenna Archivio fotografico della Provincia di Ferrara (F.Meneghetti, M.Marchetti, M.Baraldi) Archivio fotografico dell Unione di Prodotto Costa Archivio fotografico LTO Sotočje (M. Lenarčič, L. Olmi) Archivio fotografico LTO Kranjska Gora (B.Rojnik, M. Vidmar, I. Noč) Archivio fotografico TIC Kanal Archivio fotografico del Museo di Kobarid Uroš Švigelj Archivio fotografico TZ TIC Nova Gorica Archivio fotografico Comune di Komen Archivio fotografico Comune di Šempeter-Vrtojba Archivio fotografico del Parco delle Grotte di San Canziano (B. Lozej) Archivio fotografico TZ Portorož (U. Trnkoczy, J. Jeraša) Archivio fotografico TIC Koper (U. Trnkoczy) This publication can be found in electronic format at the website: INTERBIKE Project funded by the Cross-Border Cooperation Programme Italy Slovenia , by the European Fund for regional development and national funds. Progetto INTERBIKE finanziato nell ambito del Programma per la Cooperazione Transfrontaliera Italia-Slovenia , dal Fondo europeo di sviluppo regionale e dai fondi nazionali. Projekt INTERBIKE sofinanciran v okviru Programa čezmejnega sodelovanja Slovenija-Italija iz sredstev Evropskega sklada za regionalni razvoj in nacionalnih sredstev. Printed at: february 2015 First edition: 1000 copies Publisher: Litocenter s.r.l. Piazzola sul Brenta (Pd) Italy Ediciclo editore srl Via Cesare Beccaria 13/ Portogruaro (Ve) Italy Tel fax Total or partial reproduction with any means, including photocopies, is forbidden

3 Contents Introduction 5 First week s journey 6 The emerald green road Kranjska Gora - Nova Gorica - Koper - Trieste The tour of the Triglav mountain, 8 The Upper Soča Valley, 10 The middle course of the Soča, 12 Crossing the Karst, 14, The descent towards the Adriatic, 16 Along the Parenzana, 18 Second week s journey 20 The road of the Serenissima Portorož - Koper - Trieste - Venezia The Gulf of Trieste, 22 Between the Karst and the sea, 24 The Marano lagoon, 26 Along the Lemene, 28 The Coastline of the Veneto, 30 The Islands of Venice, 32 Third week s journey 34 The road of the merchants and the burci Venezia - Delta del Po - Ravenna The Riviera del Brenta, 36 The road of salt and sugar, 38 The road of the valleys, 40 Crossing of the Delta del Po, 42 Between the park and the sea, 44 Among valleys, beaches and pine woods, 46

4 Introduction This brochure has been created thanks to the Interbike project, funded by the Cross-border Cooperation Programme Italy-Slovenia , with the aim of encouraging cycling. The project includes the financing of infrastructure works favouring cyclists, the realisation of communication tools and the promotion of the touristic itinerary Adriabike, cycling route of the Upper Adriatic. The area of territories involved in the project fall within the regions of Emilia Romagna, Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia on the Italian side and the regions of Obalno-Kraška, Goriška and Gorenjska on the Slovenian side. This itinerary which connects Kranjska Gora to Ravenna is part of the European Eurovelo 8 cycling route and crosses the most fascinating areas of the Upper Adriatic and the Italian-Slovenian border. A varied and complete route which unites the beauty of cities of art like Koper (Capodistria), Trieste, Venice, Padua, Ravenna, with the various expressions of nature of the Julian Alps, the Karst Plateau, the lagoons and the Po Delta Park. The waterways are the recurring element of each day of the journey: downhill following the Sava River then the Soča, and finally the dense network of artificial canals which connect the Venetian land and the branches of the Po Delta. Adriabike is an unforgettable experience also from the point of view of the perfumes and tastes, in a continuous intertwining of alps, plains and sea. Three ideas for week-long journeys will allow you to live the experience of the Adriabike itinerary: - Kranjska Gora Trieste: the emerald green road - Koper Venice: the road of the Serenissima - Venice Ravenna: the merchants road Each proposal lasts six days, it uses cycling lanes and B roads equipped with special signs and suggests using public transport such as trains and boats. The route is presented in this brochure following daily stages, where the main touristic information is indicated: a travel diary with photos and websites where you can get more information about the places. To complete the tools for the tourist a road-book containing detailed maps has been prepared, a touristic website ( and a smart phone app. 4

5 TARVISIO Kranjska Gora A Kobarid I Tagliamento Most na Soči Natisone Gorizia Soča/Isonzo SI Portogruaro Padova VENEZIA Cavallino Lipica Lignano Grado TRIESTE Sabbiadoro Portorož Portorose Koper Capodistria Adige Chioggia HR Adria Po Goro mare Adriatico Jadransko morje Comacchio RAVENNA 5

6 First week s journey The emerald green road Kranjska Gora - Nova Gorica - Koper - Trieste Pedalling from the Julian Alps to the Gulf of Trieste 1 1 From the old station at Tarvisio you go towards the Fusine Lakes along the asphalted cycling lanes and then to the Slovenian border. You pedal amidst the woods until reaching Kranjska Gora, a well-known skiing and holiday resort at the foot of the Julian Alps. Then, passing through towns full of history, you reach the picturesque Lake Bled: here you catch the train with your bike which goes to Most na Soči. This is the historic railway line which connected Trieste to Vienna. Getting back on your bike, you go up the spectacular Soča Valley going through Tolmin, then on the left bank you reach Kobarid and you can visit the local war museum. Those who are better trained can continue to Bovec. From here you return to Tolmin and to Most na Soči, then you reach Kanal, with its enchanting bridge over the Soča river, then there is a stretch of gravel cycling lane towards Solkan and here we are at Nova Gorica and immediately afterwards at Gorizia. Now you enter the Slovenian Karst, among monasteries, castles, churches and villages, in the direction of Lipica, home of the famous horse breeding and vast stables. It is time to get onto the well-known Parenzana cycling route, passing through Koper (Capodistria), Izola (Isola), Portorož (Portorose), the spectacular Sečovlje (Sicciole) salt mines, near Koper (Capodistria), to finally reach Trieste after passing through the beautiful town centre of Muggia. The whole route is flanked by the railway line which allows you to hop on a train at any time

7 TARVISIO Kranjska Gora Jesenice A Bovec Triglav Bled Kobarid Bohinjska Bistrica Most na Soči Tolmin 2 I SI Gorizia Nova Gorica Komen mare Adriatico Jadransko morje TRIESTE Lipica 4 Portorož Portorose Koper Capodistria 6 1 Kranjska Gora, former Tarvisio-Llubljana railway bridge 2 Tolmin, the Tolmin gorges 3 Kanal, bridge over the Soča 4 Tarvisio, cycling path on the former railway line ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Tarvisio Arrival: Trieste Length: about 350 km Conditions: route with some short stretches of dirt roads Indications: present in the first and sixth stages, some stretches of the third, fourth and fifth stages Inter-modality: train + bike + bus (to Komen, not always available) 5 Sicciole salt mines, Parenzana cycling Lane 6 Trieste, Unity of Italy Square STAGES 1. Tarvisio - Kranjska Gora - Most na Soči The tour of the Triglav mountain (km 52) 2. Most na Soči - Tolmin - Kobarid - Bovec - Kobarid The Upper Soča Valley (km 67) 3. Kobarid - Most na Soči - Kanal - Nova Gorica - Gorizia The middle course of the Soča (km 63,5) 4. Gorizia - Nova Gorica - Komen - Lipica Crossing the Karst (km 77) 5. Lipica - Škocjan - Portorož The descent towards the Adriatic (km 61) 6. Portorož - Koper - Trieste Along the Parenzana (km 43) 7

8 First week 1 st day The tour of the Triglav mountain Tarvisio - Kranjska Gora - Most na Soči From the triangle of the frontiers (Italy, Austria, Slovenia) along the Sava cycling route A new cycling lane passes by Tarvisio station, heading towards the Slovenian border: in the direction of the Fusine lakes, two emerald drops set in one of the coldest areas in Italy. We are on the foundations of the former Ljubljana-Tarvisio railway line, a great example of an old unused railway line converted into a cycling lane. In a word: greenway. Hurray! Continuing amidst the green countryside, at Rateče you enter Slovenia, soon arriving in the centre of Kranjska Gora, a famous tourist resort, where you can admire the church of the Assumption and the seventeenth century Liznjek House, a wonderful example of rural architecture which is now an ethnographic museum. The Sava river leads us to the beautiful town of Mojstrana, an old mining town, where three fantastic alpine valleys start and curve into the Julian Alps up to Triglav, the highest mountain in Slovenia (2864 m): Vrata, Kot and Krma. You head towards Jesenice, an important railway junction to then pass on towards the splendid Lake Bled, a spa and tourist area, enhanced by the small island floating in the centre. From here you catch the train which goes directly into the Soča Valley, to Most na Soči. ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Tarvisio Arrival: Bled (then Most na Soči by train) Length: 52 km Conditions: all asphalted cycling lanes, with some exceptions in the first part Indications: present Inter-modality: train + bike USEFUL ADDRESSES Tourism FVG Tarvisio via Roma 14, Tarvisio, tel info.tarvisio@turismo.fvg.it Tourist Office Kranjska Gora Kolodvorska ul. 1c, 4280 Kranjska Gora tel , info@kranjska-gora.eu Tourist Office Dovje-Mojstrana Savska cesta 1, 4281 Dovje-Mojstrana tel , info@mojstrana.com Tourist Office Bled Cesta svobode 10, 4260 Bled, tel tdbled@telemach.net, Railway station: Tarvisio Boscoverde Jesenice, Vintgar, Bled Jezero Podbrdo, Most na Soči Slovenian railway: info:

9 Tarvisio I KRANJSKA GORA A SI Triglavski narodni park Triglav Bohinjsko jezero Bled Blejsko jezero Sava Bohinjska Bistrica Soča/Isonzo 1 MOST NA SOČI Zelenci, source of the Sava Dolinka 2 The Martuljek forest, cycling path 3 Kranjska Gora, the Russian chapel under the Vršič pass 4 Kranjska Gora, Jasna Lake TRAVELLERS DIARY At Tarvisio a border town the Alpe- Adria cycle route also crosses through, which from north to south from Austria leads to Italy towards Grado, passing through Buja, Udine, Palmanova and Aquileia: a virtuous circle which unites the three bordering countries by bicycle, bringing other important cycling itineraries into the network such as the Drava cycling route. From the old former railway station in Tarvisio you head east and then you leave the track which goes towards Austria and Arnoldstein and instead go right towards the Fusine lakes and the frontier town of Rateče, a small town dominated by the Peč Peak (1510 m) which marks the triple border of Italy, Slovenia and Austria. You continue along the nice asphalted cycling lane that uses the old nineteenth century railway line which connected Tarvisio to Ljubljana: it will keep you company for most of the day, skimming large fields and leading into thick refreshing woods. After a short while you arrive at the foot of the spectacular Planica side valley: where there are the famous trampolines used for ski jumping and where many world records were set up. With a pleasant ride you reach Kranjska Gora, well-known place for hosting world alpine ski competitions. The Sava Dolinka, one of the two source branches of the important Sava river, offers us some magical scenery in this rich and generous land, characterised by fields dotted with typical wooden barns, vertical racks, where the grass is left to dry. At Mojstrana you can visit Pocar House one of the oldest farm houses in the Triglav National Park, now used for exhibitions and the new Slovenian alpine museum. The cycling lane finishes in the town, so go towards the densely populated town of Jesenice and then from there plunging once again into the green Slovenian alpine woods to the wonderful Lake Bled. With an hour s train journey you can change valley and reach Most na Soči, on the Soča river. 9

10 First week 2 nd day The Upper Soča valley Most na Soči - Tolmin - Kobarid - Bovec - Kobarid SI Bovec KOBARID Soča/Isonzo Tolmin T An enchanting bike ride along the emerald coloured river I MOST NA SOČI You are at Most na Soči, where the Idrijca plunges into the Soča: it is one of the main European prehistoric areas, as you will discover at the local Archaeological Museum. You follow the upper course of the Soča which, thanks to the many rapids, is paradise for those who love water sports like rafting, kayak, canoeing and hydro speed: it is a well-loved territory for the numerous fans of these sports. At Tolmin known for its eighteenth century peasant revolt you can find the Ethnographic Museum, the remains of a medieval castle and the magnificent Devil s Bridge. Then you cross the river, thanks to the big Napoleonic arched stone bridge, reaching Kobarid, known for the famous retreat in November 1917, remembered in the local museum and the nearby St. Anthony s memorial. From here those who are better trained can go up towards the source of the Soča, where there is the chance to visit the Boka waterfall. Now there is just one more hill towards Bovec. Then you return to Kobarid. ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Most na Soči Arrival: Kobarid Length: 67 km (including the excursion to Bovec) Conditions: almost all the route is on asphalted road with mixed traffic Indications: absent Inter-modality: train + bike USEFUL ADDRESSES Tourist Office Tolmin Petra Skalarja 4, 5220 Tolmin tel , info@lto-sotocje.si Tourist Office Kobarid Trg svobode 16, 5222 Kobarid tel , info.kobarid@lto-sotocje.si Tourist Office Bovec Trg golobarskih žrtev 8, 5230 Bovec tel info@bovec.si, Railway station: Most na Soči 10

11 The Soča Valley, Tolmin 2 Kobarid, First World War Museum 3 Glimpse of the Soča 4 Kobarid, Napoleonic bridge 5 Trnovo ob Soči, bridge over the Soča TRAVELLERS DIARY Once we get off the train which has brought us from Jesenice (or Bled) to Most na Soči, we enter an important archaeological area, as shown by the many findings of tombs from the Iron Age: Sveta Lucija Culture. After a walk along the paths around the lake, where there is a beautiful view of the town, we go back up the green course of water towards its Karstic source located in the Triglav National Park. It winds in a wild environment made up of waterfalls, rapids and large dams which exploit some of its energy: now nature rules, offering thousands of interesting views. Near the important little town of Tolmin the Tolmin Gorges are remarkable, located at the lower entrance of the Triglav National Park. They are characterised by a large mass wedged in among the faces, from the Devil s Bridge, suspended at a height of 60 metres above the bright blue waters of the Tolminka and the so-called Dante s Cave, where local legend has it that the poet found inspiration for his Inferno. Let s remember that when we visit his tomb in Ravenna... Near Kobarid we cross the river thanks to a fine Napoleonic bridge a stone arch and then we can visit the town which became part of history during the Great War: don t miss the museum which is dedicated to the war but above all to peace, focusing on mankind. We continue on the right bank passing through the towns of Žaga and Log Čezsoški, heading north towards Bovec, at least for those who have been in training. From the road you can admire the Boka waterfall, one of the most spectacular in Europe, 144 metres high and 18 metres wide. Finally you reach the Bovec plain, where the source of the Soča can be found. The route is a cul-de-sac and we can turn back towards Kobarid, continuing to enjoy the green waters of the Soča. 11

12 KOBARID First week 3 rd day Tolmin The middle course of the Soča Kobarid - Most na Soči - Kanal - Nova Gorica - Gorizia Where the alpine breezes meet the perfumes of the Mediterranean SI I foto venezia LAGUNA Kanal Soča/Isonzo Anhovo Most na Soči GORIZIA - NOVA GORICA This trip takes us to the middle course of the Soča; you pedal among many natural beauties, dams, bridges, lakes, waterfalls but also many historical and cultural splendours which make the ride fascinating and engaging. From Kobarid you follow the left bank of the Soča reaching Tolmin, on a panoramic road, and from here you go to Most na Soči, with its characteristic lake squeezed in between the mountains, to arrive then on an asphalted road up to Kanal, crossing the famous XVI century bridge, the symbol of the town, destroyed and rebuilt many times. You must also see the Kontrada square with its Gothic House and the parish church of the Assumption dating back to The route continues towards Plave, the theatre of many battles during the Great War: now the river becomes narrower and tortuous and you can enjoy the view pedalling on a safe gravel cycling lane. The vegetation continually changes: from beech tree woodlands to more thermophilic formations, with the addition of Mediterranean flora. The aromas of the mountains now give way to Mediterranean essences. At the end of the cycling lane the railway bridge at Solkan appears impressively, with its stone arch which is the widest in the world, an engineering masterpiece from the beginning of the XX century. From Solkan you quickly reach Nova Gorica, joined to Gorizia by Piazza Europa, symbol of fraternity between the two towns. ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Kobarid Arrival: Nova Gorica Length: 63.5 km Conditions: mainly on asphalted road Indications: absent Inter-modality: train + bike (At Postaja, 2 km from Most na Soci, you can catch the train to Nova Gorica) USEFUL ADDRESSES Tourist Office Kanal Pionirska 2, 5213 Kanal, tel tic.kanal@siol.net, Tourist Office Nova Gorica Delpinova ulica 18b, 5000 Nova Gorica tel , tzticng@siol.net Railway station: Most na Soči, Avče, Kanal, Anhovo, Solkan, Nova Gorica 12

13 Solkan, railway bridge 2 Kostanjevica, church of the Annunciation 3 Kanal, diving competition from the bridge over the Soča 4 Prilesje, church of Sveti Ahac 5 Nova Gorica - Gorizia, Europa Square TRAVELLERS DIARY You leave from Kobarid, where there are many interesting historical places nearby as well as unique natural sites. After crossing the Napoleonic bridge, turn right and follow the left river bank towards Tolmin, to then continue towards Most na Soči and then reach Kanal, a beautiful little town with a Baroque influence. The symbol of the town is certainly the bridge, architectural archetype: with ancient origins, destroyed and rebuilt many times, mentioned also in Hemingway s Farewell to Arms, it continues to be at the centre of the town s social life, so much so that it has become, from its 17 metre height, a trampoline for a famous international diving competition. Now you follow the left bank and the Soča becomes more tortuous, giving us wonderful views. You pass through the towns of Plave and Prilesje with the Sveti Ahac church. A cycling path next to the river leads us under another important bridge, a railway bridge this time: we are near Solkan and this bridge holds a world record. In fact with its 4533 square limestone bricks from the Nabrežina quarries and its length of 85 metres, it is the longest single-arch bridge in the world made from cut stones. After the railway bridge, you go towards the new Solkan bridge which leads to Nova Gorica, the town which rose as the Slovenian counterpart of the Italian Gorizia, after the second world war. Of historical interest we can see the railway station, located on the Transalpine line and just a few metres away from the Italian border, which you must cross to visit the fine historical centre of this Friuli town. In the hills at the edge of the town there is the Kostanjevica Franciscan convent with the church of the Annunciation, the library and the Borbone crypt. 13

14 First week 4 th day Crossing the Karst a GORIZIA - NOVA GORICA foto venezia LAGUNA SI Ajdovščina Gorizia - Nova Gorica - Komen - Lipica Komen K r a s - C a r s o Discovering the Slovenian Karst: pleasant up and downhill ride, rich landscapes, perfumes and tastes of the Mediterranean I Sežana Adriatico Jadransko morje Trieste LIPICA ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Gorizia Nova Gorica Arrival: Lipica Length: 77 km Conditions: mainly on asphalted roads with mixed traffic and cycling lane from Vrtojba to Miren. Some uphill. Be careful of the wind. Indications: absent Inter-modality: train + bike We will get to know the Slovenian Karst better through this stage, it is a territory with particular characteristics from a historical, nature, cultural and gastronomic point of view. The route meanders with frequent up and downhills, although not steep in the spectacular limestone highlands which dominate the Gulf of Trieste, giving continuous emotions. You mainly pedal along narrow roads, open to traffic but not at all busy, surrounded by dry stone walls which seem to lead towards nowhere. Nature rules here, modelled by the Bora wind and enriched by unique colours, which especially in Autumn present us with glimpses of great vitality. Then all of a sudden, an old village appears, the remains of a medieval castle, a bell tower and we return to civilization. Then after a bend in the road, the extensive view of the Gulf of Trieste explodes in front of us, dominated from above. Starting from Nova Gorica the trip continuously comes close to the Italian border, passing through villages which have a double name, as they were once Italian, and Austrian before that, until we reach Lipica and its centuries-old horse stud farm. USEFUL ADDRESSES Tourist Office Nova Gorica, Delpinova ulica 18b, 5000 Nova Gorica, tel tzticng@ siol.net, Tourist Office Šempeter-Vrtojba Trg Ivana Roba 4, 5290 Šempeter pri Gorici tel , Tourist Office Štanjel, Štanjel 1a, 6222 Štanjel tel , tic.stanjel@komen.si Tourist Office Dutovlje, Bunčetova domačija 6221 Dutovlje, tel , tic.dutovlje@gmail.com Hostel Pliskovica, Pliskovica 11, 6221 Dutovlje tel ; info@hostelkras.com Tourist Office Sežana, Partizanska ulica Sežana, tel tic.sezana@siol.net, Tourist Office Equile di Lipica Lipica 5, 6210 Sežana, tel info@lipica.org, Railway stations: Gorizia, Nova Gorica, Šempeter pri Gorici, Štanjel, Dutovlje, Sežana 14

15 Štanjel, castle with surrounding walls 2 Dutovije, wine making centre 3 Šempeter pri Gorici, Coronini Palace 4 Lipica, horses grazing TRAVELLERS DIARY We leave from Nova Gorica along the Vipava Valley to reach Šempeter (St. Peter), where there is the fifteenth century church of St. Peter, the Coronini Counts castle and Villa Maffei. Then there is a nice cycling lane which reaches Miren, dominated by the wonderful sanctuary of Saint Grado in Merna, dedicated to Our Lady of Sorrows. Among gentle hills and some gravel roads, you reach Lokvica, then Sela na Krasu, from where there is a spectacular view of the Gulf of Trieste. At Škrbina you can visit the painter Lojze Spacal s house, then you pass through the beautiful village of Sveto with its church dedicated to Saint Egidio, one of the leading examples of sacred architecture in Slovenia. Then we reach Komen, which was an important administrative centre in the western Karst region, afterwards we continue into the heart of the Karst until we pass through the villages of Pliskovica and Dutovlje, a famous wine making centre specialised in the production of Teran, the local nectar. You can also reach Dutovlje, passing through the medieval town of Štanjel which with its castle and surrounding walls represents the most attractive tourist spot in the Karst. Then you reach Toma, a village where you can visit Srečko Kosovel s birthplace house, he was one of the most important Slovenian poets. Pedalling along enchanted roads you reach Sežana, the main economic centre of the Karst, which hosts a botanical orchard which is over a hundred years old. Finally we arrive at our goal for today s trip, the famous Lipica, known all over the world as the place where horses from the famous Hapsburg stud farm have been bred since the XVI century, giving origin to the Lipizzaner horses. Here everything centres around the horse stables: courses, exhibitions, horseback excursions, carriage rides, visits to the historical stables. 15

16 First week 5 th day K r a s C The descent towards the Adriatic Lipica - Škocjan - Portorož Adriatico Jadransko morje Koper - Capodistria PORTOROŽ - PORTOROSE Trieste I A slow, gentle ride from the Karst to Istria, with a visit to the spectacular Škocjan Caves HR Before diving into the blue of the Adriatic, this route concentrates on the Karst tópoi: grottos, caves, sinkholes, underground rivers, stony territory with little vegetation. Along the route a very pleasant downhill ride you can find one of the three Slovenian sites which have been declared world heritage sites by Unesco, that is Škocjanske jame. This is a complex system of caverns and galleries covered by stalactites and stalagmites shaped by the underground river Reka which, after 40 kilometres underground, flows into the Gulf of Trieste near Štivan. You head towards Kozina, on the outer edge of the Karst and from here you reach Črni Kal with its characteristic leaning bell-tower (the gate of Benko House is also interesting, this is the oldest farmhouse in Slovenia). Then you go down along the Rižano valley, reaching the old Parenzana railway line which at the beginning of the XX century connected Trieste to Poreč. This well-equipped and much-used cycling path which goes along beside the Škocjanski zatok Nature Reserve leads to Koper (Capodistria), Izola (Isola) to finally reach Portorož (Portorose). ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Lipica Arrival: Portorož Length: 61 km Conditions: some stretches of gravel road, mainly on asphalted roads with light mixed traffic Indications: partial (along the Parenzana cycling path) Inter-modality: train + bike USEFUL ADDRESSES Tourist Office Equile di Lipica Lipica 5, 6210 Sežana, tel info@lipica.org, Park Škocjanske jame Škocjan 2, 6215 Divača, tel psj.info@psj.gov.si, Tourist Office Koper Titov trg 3, 6000 Koper tel , tic@koper.si, Tourist Office Izola Ljubljanska ulica 17, 6310 Izola tel tic.izola@izola.si, Tourist Office Portorož Obala 16, 6320 Portorož, tel ticpo@portoroz.si, Tourist Office Piran Tartinijev trg 2, 6330 Piran tel , ticpi@portoroz.si Railway stations: Divača, Hrpelje-Kozina, Koper Ferries: the Trieste-Rovinj line is active in July and August 5 times a week with a stop at Piran (Pirano). The number of bikes allowed on board is limited. 16

17 a r s o LIPICA Škocjan Kozina SI 1 Koper - Capodistria, seafront 2 Škocjan, Škocjanske jame caves 3 Portorož - Portorose, beach TRAVELLERS DIARY From the centre of Lipica the itinerary continues on gravel road until reaching Lokev, where we find an imposing fortified stone tower, erected as a defence from the Turkish invasions, today hosting a great collection of arms, uniforms and other military objects. You continue, reaching the entrance to the Škocjanske Jame Park in the town of Divača you must not miss seeing its magnificent caves, one of the greatest attractions in Slovenia. After the visit carry on pedalling until you reach the edge of the plateau, that is Kozina where another cycling path crosses, the Trieste-Hrpelje (which you will use partially on the second day of the second week), along a stretch of the sediment of the Trieste-Ljubljana railway line. Further down there is the village of Črni Kal, nestled in the green from where the white church of St. Valentine stands out. Now the road goes down with wide bends and weaves its way into the Rižana river valley until reaching the old Parenzana railway track narrow gauge and only one track which from 1902 connected Trieste to Poreč in 123 kilometres. It went out of use in 1935, a few years ago it was transformed into a cycling lane (D8 cycling route) called Parenzana: road of health and friendship. Pedalling along this nice route you reach the Škocjanski zatok Nature Reserve, greatest salt mars area in Slovenia, then you reach Koper (Capodistria), with its wonderful historical town centre of obvious Venetian influence. To reach Izola (Isola) you pedal next to the sea on a special cycling lane also reserved for other users. Then you go through a tunnel and reach Štrungan (Strugnano), the former salt mine area. A second tunnel allows us to reach Portorož (Portorose), famous tourist resort in Slovenian Istria in the municipality of Piran (Pirano) with its centuries-old spa tradition. The mud for the spas comes from the salt mines in Sečovlje (Sicciole), the nature reserve 10 kilometres away from Portorož (Portorose) in the direction of the Croatian border. 17

18 K r a s C a r s o First week 6 th day Along the Parenzana Portorož - Koper - Trieste Along the Istrian coast to the Gulf of Trieste Adriatico Jadransko morje Muggia Trieste Koper - Capodistria PORTOROŽ - PORTOROSE I HR From Portorož (Portorose) the best known seaside resort in Slovenia, specialised in spas and situated in the Piran (Pirano) peninsula the wonderful cycling path passes by the Ŝtrungan (Strugnano) salt mines, now a nature reserve. We must point out the presence in this coastal town of the important sanctuary of the Vision of Saint Mary, where many pilgrimages end. At Izola (Isola) the Venetian dominion which lasted for centuries left its mark, not only with the lions of St. Mark which can still be seen but also in the urban structure, in the XVI century Town Hall and other prestigious private villas. Then you reach Koper (Capodistria), where the town centre looks like a little Venice, with paved streets, the Praetorian Palace in Gothic-Renaissance style, the town loggia, the Carmine Baptistery and the cathedral of the Assumption of Mary. Leaving the city, you go along the Rižana valley among cultivated fields and vineyards, going gently up towards Škofije where you cross the border into Italy. From here you soon arrive in Trieste on mixed traffic roads. ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Portorož (Portorose) Arrival: Trieste Length: 43 km (Portorož-Trieste) Conditions: almost everywhere there are good separate cycling lanes, with a few stretches of mixed traffic near Trieste Indications: present Inter-modality: bike + boat (Muggia-Trieste) USEFUL ADDRESSES Tourist Office Portorož Obala 16, 6320 Portorož, tel ticpo@portoroz.si, Tourist Office Piran, Tartinijev trg Piran, tel ticpi@portoroz.si, Tourist Office Izola, Ljubljanska ulica Izola, tel tic.izola@izola.si, Tourist Office Koper, Titov trg Koper, tel tic@koper.si, IAT Muggia via Roma 20, Muggia, tel Tourist Office FVG - Trieste Via dell Orologio, 1 tel nfo.trieste@turismo.fvg.it Ferries: the Muggia-Trieste line is active every day (limited number of bikes) 18

19 Koper - Capodistria, former salt warehouse 2 Trieste, Grand Canal 3 Koper - Capodistria, Praetorian Palace 4 Sečovlje salt mines, the Parenzana cycling path 5 Strunjan - Strugnano, tunnel on the Parenzana cycling path TRAVELLERS DIARY Leaving Portorož (Portorose), an illuminated tunnel leads us to the Štrungan (Strugnano) salt mines included in the beautiful coastal nature park and from here the cycling path leads us towards the town of Izola (isola) pedalling along the foot of the hills. Having visited the wonderful historical centre you arrive near the coast and can enjoy the panorama from above, with a vast spectacular view over the cobalt blue of the Gulf of Trieste. The time has come to make a triumphant entrance into Koper (Capodistria), which is announced by its high bell-tower: it is one of the most characteristic historical centres in Istria and the only commercial port in Slovenia, as well as being one of the most important in the Upper Adriatic. After visiting the town carefully not only the splendid Tito Square but also the smaller squares, the wells, the lions of St. Mark, the majestic gates, the old port you continue cycling and immediately come to the Strunjan (Strugnano) Nature Reserve, a stretch of sea captured by the mainland which reminds us how Koper (Capodistria) was an island in the past. It is the largest salt mars area in Slovenia, known for the abundance of its flora and fauna. From here it is only a short distance to the border: you go back up the Rižana valley and, slightly uphill, you are already in Škofije and at the Rabula border. Then you head towards Trieste on a mixed traffic road, cutting transversally across the headland where Muggia rises. 19

20 Second week s journey The road of the Serenissima Portorož - Koper - Trieste - Venezia Bike and boat among beaches and the lagoon 1 1 From Portorož (Portorosa) and Koper (Capodistria) you reach Trieste and the Gulf with the same name thanks to a ferry from Muggia. Then you climb the Carso using the cycling path of Val Rosandra, with splendid sea views: then you carry on towards Basovizza and then easily descend towards Duino, embellished by the cliffs overhanging the water and the beautiful castle. As an alternative from Trieste you can go by train to the town of Monfalcone. Now you are in Bisiacaria a land between the rivers Timavo and Isonzo which you cross to reach Grado, suspended between land, sea, lagoon, rivers and canals. Then you pass through Aquileia, a jewel of Roman and Byzantine art, continuing then towards the Marano lagoon and Lignano Sabbiadoro. There is also the possibility of arriving here by boat from Grado. Then you go to Bibione to head towards the Concordia Sagittaria archaeological site and the beautiful centre of Portogruaro, resting on the banks of the river Lemene. After this you go towards the coastal area along the seaside cycle paths: Caorle, Eraclea, Cortellazzo to then reach Jesolo and Cavallino, the orchards of the Venetian lagoon. From Punta Sabbioni, with a short motor-vessel ride, you arrive on the island of Lido of Venice, which you can ride around and then take the ferry to Pellestrina which takes us into an authentic atmosphere, between the sea and the lagoon, until you arrive in front of Chioggia. As an alternative, from Lido you can go to Venice, a natural place to stop during this journey on the Serenissima routes

21 I SI Palmanova Portogruaro 2 Jesolo VENEZIA Cavallino Punta Treporti Sabbioni Lido di Venezia Chioggia Caorle mare Adriatico Jadransko morje Lignano Sabbiadoro Grado PORTOROŽ PORTOROSE Trieste HR Portorož - Portorose, Landscape 2 Koper - Capodistria, Brolo Square 3 Grado, beach 4 Duino Castle, panoramic view 5 Bibione, beach and lighthouse 6 Venice-Mestre, San Giuliano Park ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Portorož (Portorose) Arrival: Venice Length: 400 km Conditions: route with some short stretches of dirt roads Indications: an easy route with asphalted roads, suitable for everyone, except for the stage near Trieste which has some uphill climbs and gravel stretches which can be avoided by train. Inter-modality: bike + boat STAGES 1. Portorož - Koper - Muggia - Trieste The Gulf of Trieste (km 31) 2. Trieste - Duino - Monfalcone - Grado Between the Karst and the sea (km 100) 3. Grado - Aquileia - Lignano Sabbiadoro The Marano lagoon (km 82) 4. Lignano Sabbiadoro - Concordia Sagittaria - Portogruaro Along the Lemene (km 52) 5. Portogruaro - Caorle - Eraclea - Jesolo - Cavallino - Punta Sabbioni The coastline of the Veneto (km 77) 6. Punta Sabbioni - Lido di Venezia - Pellestrina - Chioggia The islands of Venice (km 23) 21

22 K r a s C a r s o Second week 1 st day The Gulf of Trieste Portorož - Koper - Muggia - Trieste Pedalling along the seafront on a cycling path to reach the town Adriatico Jadransko morje HR Muggia Trieste Koper - Capodistria PORTOROŽ - PORTOROSE I This trip perfectly blends the sea and culture, the golden sands with history and nature with art. Using a spectacular cycling path right near the edge of the water along the Adriatic you pass by the famous seaside resort and spa Portorož (Portorose) and reach Izola (Isola) and Koper (Capodistria), where the traces of the glorious past are still present as well as the close and intense ties to Venice. Strolling along the picturesque paved streets you can admire many Gothic villas, colonnades, beautiful churches and high bell-towers. Then you cross over the border reaching Muggia the only Italian town which geographically belongs to Istria with particularly Venetian characteristics which looks directly over the Gulf of Trieste. From here you catch a ferry which quickly takes you to the central dock of the capital city of the region. ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Portorož (Portorose) Arrival: Trieste Length: km 31 (Portorož-Muggia) Conditions: a good separate cycling path almost everywhere Indications: present Inter-modality: bike + boat USEFUL ADDRESSES Tourist Office Portorož Obala 16, Portorož, tel ticpo@portoroz.si, Tourist Office Piran Tartinijev trg 2, Piran, tel ticpi@portoroz.si, Tourist Office Izola Ljubljanska ulica 17, Izola, tel tic.izola@izola.si, Tourist Office Koper Titov trg 3, Koper, tel tic@koper.si, IAT Muggia via Roma 20, Muggia, tel Touristic Office FVG -Trieste Via dell Orologio, 1 tel info.trieste@turismo.fvg.it Trieste railway station piazza della Libertà 8, Trieste Ferries: the Muggia-Trieste line is active daily (limited number of bikes) 22

23 Portorož - Portorose, beaches 2 Koper - Capodistria, Tito Square 3 Muggia, harbour 4 Trieste, Miramare Castle 5 Trieste, Roman theatre TRAVELLERS DIARY To reach the pulsating heart of Trieste from the spectacular Istrian coast we advise you to use the sea route, which will get you to Muggia, and tothe chief city of the region, offering you the breathtaking view of the town sheltering on a sort of amphitheatre overhanging the gulf. For references to the cycling path from Portorož (Portorose) to Muggia see the description of the sixth stage of the first week s trip. When you arrive near the picturesque historical centre of Muggia you must have a good visit at the small port (Mandracchio), the old circle of walls showing gates topped by lions of St. Mark and the castle which dominates the city, and for those who are better trained in uphill rides, the old sanctuary of Saint Mary of the Assumption which dates back to the XIII century; then you can catch the convenient ferry (limited number of bikes) which brings you in to Trieste with spectacular views. Once you get off you are immediately in the heart of the city, Unity of Italy Square, surrounded by numerous villas and public buildings, like the Trieste Town Hall, the building of the Regional council of Friuli Venezia Giulia and the Prefecture, as well as historical coffee houses. There are so many interesting places to visit in this city where you can still breathe the air of Central Europe: from the Revoltella Museum to the Natural History Museum, from the Museum of the Sea to the Town Theatre, from the Cathedral of Saint Justus to the Synagogue, from the Serbian-Orthodox church of Saint Spyridon to the Greek Orthodox church of Saint Nicholas, from the Miramare Castle to the Saint Justus castle, from the Roman Theatre to Richard s Arch. 23

24 Second week 2 nd day Between the Karst and the sea Trieste - Duino - Monfalcone - Grado Pedalling between land and water, sea and lagoon, canals and groves of reeds From Unità Square, heart of the city, you reach the San Giacomo district, where the Giordano Cottur cycling path starts from, a constant, gentle uphill ride, it leads to the Karst overlooking the Rosandra Valley, one of the most interesting nature sites in the territory. Then you go to Draga Sant Elia, you leave the cycling path which you followed here from Trieste to go towards Basovizza; continue alongside the Karst Plateau and then easily ride down to Duino, where there is the famous castle, also celebrated by Rainer Maria Rilke. You soon reach Monfalcone: for those who are not so well trained we advise catching the train from Trieste to Monfalcone. From here a splendid route starts along the estuary of the Soča, among nature parks, reeds, valleys, gulfs, canals, lagoons, little islands (the sanctuary of the Madonna di Barbana), a paradise for nature lovers and birdwatchers. You then arrive in the historical centre of Grado, enhanced by its insularity and the presence of extraordinary monuments such as the Cathedral of Saint Euphemia, the baptistery and cathedral of St. Mary of Graces. ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Trieste Arrival: Grado Length: 100 km from Trieste (40 km from Monfalcone using the train service from Trieste to Monfalcone) Conditions: some long stretches are on protected cycling paths (Trieste Draga S. Elia and Punta Sdobba Grado), others on mixed traffic roads Indications: present from Monfalcone to Grado route FVG 2 Inter-modality: bike + train USEFUL ADDRESSES Tourist Office FVG - Grado, Viale D. Alighieri, 66 tel info.grado@turismo.fvg.it; Trieste Railway Station piazza della Libertà 8, Trieste Monfalcone Railway Station piazza della Stazione 1 Monfalcone

25 1 2 I Soča/Isonzo Monfalcone K r a s C a r s o Duino 3 GRADO Adriatico Jadransko morje TRIESTE 1 Trieste, Audace pier 2 Duino, view of the Karst towards Slovenia 3 Grado, lagoon TRAVELLERS DIARY This route starts from the spectacular cycling-walking path, named after the champion from Trieste Giordano Cottur, from Trieste it leads to the Karst using the nineteenth century Trieste-Hrpelje railway line, using the narrow viaducts and tunnels. At the start from the San Giacomo district, there is also an information centre. You go back up the wild Rosandra valley, the route of an ancient spice and salt road, dominated by a picturesque little church, Holy Mary in Siaris clinging to a rock spur. At Draga Saint Elijah at the Slovenian border, go towards the left in the direction of Basovizza; you pass through Opicina, Borgo Grotta Gigante, Rupinpiccolo and Sgonico, on the far side of the Karst Plateau, to then descend to the sea at Sistiana and Duino, a well-known resort for its castle as well as the wonderful Falesie di Duino Nature Reserve and for the panoramic Rilke Path. Having crossed the Timav, you enter Bisiacaria, (an unconfirmed word origin says it derives from the Latin bis aquaei), a historical region between the estuaries of the Timav and the Soča with its traditions, history, culture and language. You then arrive in Monfalcone: we advise this route only for those who are well trained, while we suggest that all the others catch the train from Trieste to Monfalcone. From Monfalcone a pleasant cycling path starts which touches three very important nature areas: the Regional Nature Reserve Estuary of the Soča, the Nature Oasis of Caneo and the Cavanata Valley Regional Nature Reserve. When you reach Punta Sdobba and the huge reed beds among mudflats and sandbanks at the estuary of the Soča, you cycle along a spectacular river bank where there is a blending of the sounds of the backwash, the smell of the sea, the view of the Istrian coast and the never-ending expanse of the Bonifica della Vittoria (Victory Land Reclamation). Remaining on a cycling path you reach the splendid town of Grado, a jewel of art and history. 25

26 Second week 3 rd day The Marano Lagoon Grado - Aquileia - Lignano Sabbiadoro From Grado and Aquileia to the Marano Lagoon and the estuary of the Tagliamento river near Lignano Sabbiadoro This stage can be carried out by bike and by boat, it makes its way into the lagoon habitat of Grado and Marano until reaching the seaside resort of Lignano Sabbiadoro. It is a private service and must be booked, with the possibility of embarking at Grado, Terzo di Aquileia (estuaries of the river Ausa), Marano and Lignano Sabbiadoro. Alternatively, the cycling route goes around the Marano lagoon touching on important historical sites. You pass through Aquileia, a magical archaeological site, a rich empire during Roman times and the administrative centre during the X Reign (Venetia et Histria). It took on an important role with the arrival of Christianity, becoming the largest diocese of the whole Middle Ages (Patriarchy of Aquileia). It is a Unesco World Heritage site due to the exceptional value of the enormous archaeological areas and the early Christian mosaics in the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption, which represent a fundamental stage in Italian history of art. When you arrive at Cervignano, turn to the west towards Torviscosa, an example of urban rationalism during the fascist period, or go north for 10 kilometres following the cycle path indications. This way you reach the fortress city of Palmanova, a masterpiece of Friuli military architecture thanks to the nine-pointed star shape and the hexagonal central square. At the gates of the town there is the picturesque medieval village Strassoldo which still treasures the Upper and Lower castles and the church of Holy Mary in Vineis. Taking once again the road towards Lignano Sabbiadoro, you pass through reclaimed countryside and come upon the centres of Marano lagoon, Preceicco on the Stella river and ride alongside the edge of the lagoon until reaching the well-known seaside resort. ROUTE INFORMATION Starting point: Grado Arrival: Lignano Sabbiadoro Length: km 82 Conditions: a long stretch of cycling path from Grado to Cervignano, then the route progresses on very light traffic roads (except Cervignano- Torviscosa) Indications: present (except some parts) Inter-modality: bike + boat USEFUL ADDRESSES Infopoint Turismo FVG Grado: tel Aquileia: tel Lignano Sabbiadoro: tel +39: Transport: SAF Società autoservizi FVG tel. chiamata gratuita (from land line) (from mobile) numeroverde@saf.ud.it Boat service: tel tel

27 2 3 Stella Palmanova Cervignano del Friuli Tagliamento Marano Lagunare Ausa Aquileia Laguna di Grado Soča/Isonzo 4 LIGNANO SABBIADORO GRADO 1 Grado, Cathedral of Saint Euphemia 2 Marano, casoni in the lagoon 3 Grado, tourist harbour 4 Aquileia, archaeological area TRAVELLERS DIARY You leave Grado following the cycle path built alongside the trans-lagoon bridge, up to Belvedere where the route connects to the new path built on the former railway line Cervignano-Belvedere. At Aquileia, one of the capitals of history and art in Friuli, you park your bike to relive the fascination of history strolling in the archaeological area, to visit the national museum and the Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption. Follow the cycling path again to reach Cervignano and, if you have time, you can make a short detour to the north on the Alpe Adria cycle path to reach the village of Strassoldo and the fortress city of Palmanova. Turning back, pedalling with no difficulty, head towards Torviscosa, an urban centre built during the fascist period following the development of the cellulose and artificial fibre cloth industries. Now the route leads into lower Friuli among artificial and natural canals, passing close to the villages of San Giorgio di Nogaro and Carlino: head south towards the Marano lagoon to reach the beautiful centre, where you can feel the centuries-old influence of the Republic of Saint Mark. Among canals and squares we can admire the nice fishermen s houses, the loggia, the Palace of the Proveditors and the thousand-year-old tower. Continue along the spectacular edge of the lagoon and you pass through Precenicco and then you reach the Foci dello Stella Natural Reserve. Then you head south, towards the beautiful peninsula where Lignano Sabbiadoro rises between the sea and the lagoon. In the 1960 s it became one of the most well-known resorts on the Adriatic. The stage has another flavour if you do it by boat: the environment of the lagoon is exalted by the perspective from the water. In an hour s slow sailing you can be absorbed into the silence of a natural environment full of aromas and golden reflections. The boat goes close to the fishermen s islands with the characteristic casoni of the valley. We advise you to embark at the source of the Ausa river in the town of Terzo di Aquileia and reach the tourist resort of Lignano Sabbiadoro. 27

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