France. Wallcreepers, Camargue & Provence Sat 5 th -Fri 11 th March Limosa Holidays Trip Report. Report compiled by tour leader: David Fairhurst

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1 Limosa Holidays Trip Report France Wallcreepers, Camargue & Provence Sat 5 th -Fri 11 th March 2016 Clockwise from top left: Looking for Rock Sparrows at the magnificent Pont du Gard an obliging Alpine Accentor a superb De Forestier s Bee Orchid White Stork at the nest photos David Fairhurst, Limosa Holidays Report compiled by tour leader: David Fairhurst 1 Limosa Holidays, West End Farmhouse, Chapelfield, Stalham Norfolk NR12 9EJ tel: +44 (0) / 4 info@limosaholidays.co.uk website:

2 France Wallcreepers, Camargue & Provence Tour Leader: David Fairhurst with Jane Bow, Sue & Tony Crowther, Alan Leeds, Brian Martin, Mabel Rennie and Brian Russell. Day 1 - Saturday 5th March 2016 We arrived in Marseille mid-morning after a trouble free flight from London. After the normal passport control and mini-bus formalities were completed we headed north to our hotel on the south side of Avignon. Folk were given plenty of time to familiarise themselves with the hotel and settle into their rooms before we headed out for a couple of hours of birdwatching. Heading south and into Les Alpilles we arrived at Les Baux in the mid-afternoon where we walked the cliffs on the eastern and southern side of the town. Under clear blue skies we were rewarded with prolonged views of two wonderful Wallcreepers. When on the move their continual flicking made them quite easy to pick out on the impressive rock-face. It was not long before we located an Alpine Accentor and then two stunning male Blue Rock Thrushes, whilst up to thirty Crag Martins whizzed up and down, what a start to the trip! Other birds seen here included Sardinian Warblers, Black Redstarts, Blackcap and Chiffchaffs. After a superb hour of birding, we meandered up into the town, where several more Alpine Accentors were found feeding in gardens amongst the shops. All too soon it was time to travel back to the hotel and a super meal in Avignon. Day 2 - Sunday 6th March 2016 The day was spent exploring the dry, stony areas of the Crau. With a mistral now starting to blow we headed first to Vergieres, where almost straight away we spotted a pair of Stonecurlews. These strange looking birds were watched preening and snoozing whilst good numbers of small birds flitted about in the low scrub, including Crested Larks, Black Redstarts, Skylarks, Meadow Pipits and Sardinian Warblers. The ground here is carpeted in rosemary and thyme and walking across it creates a wonderful aroma. A small group of Little Bustards took flight and their gleaming white wing flashes were obvious against the blue sky. Unfortunately these were only seen by half of the group. Several Black Kites were noted hunting over the nearby trees. Heading out onto the Crau proper another short walk produced a couple of groups of White Storks, a newly arrived Barn Swallow, Red-legged Partridges and a distant flock of several hundred migrating Common Cranes. We enjoyed the refreshments at Chers before driving out to the barns in the middle of the Crau. We eventually located a couple of pairs of the rare and declining Calandra Larks but frustratingly they were only seen in flight. We lunched in the sunshine in the lee of a sheep barn, but not before flushing a close-by Little Bustard. A post lunch Southern Grey Shrike was a welcome find as they can be surprisingly hard to find. The nearby fields at Mas Chauvet were our next stop and another gentle stroll. Here, there was what appeared to be a wild bird crop that was holding large numbers of Corn and Reed Buntings (many 100s). A female Hen Harrier gave wonderful views as she hunted the hedges. The last hour of the day was spent at Etang des Alunes where, amongst the large numbers of Black-headed Gulls, we found a few cracking summer-plumaged Mediterranean Gulls. Day 3 - Monday 7th March 2016 A much calmer day today saw us heading south and into the Camargue. Our first stop was a fruitless Night Heron search but we were rewarded with our first Zitting Cisticolas and plenty of Common Buzzards and White Storks. Along the road in the Petite Camargue were good 2 Limosa Holidays

3 numbers of Chiffchaffs and Great Egrets, while several Marsh Harriers sailed overhead and two male Bearded Reedlings showed superbly in the reeds. We had a lovely stroll around boardwalks at the Scamandre reserve, where we saw our first of many Greater Flamingos. As the weather warmed, several White Storks started circling in the blue skies and it wasn t long before they were joined by a stunning pale morph Booted Eagle. Other birds seen here included Cetti s Warblers, Tree Sparrows, Red-crested Pochards and Common Kingfishers. The saltpans just north of Saintes Maries de la Mer were our next stop and here we watched more vividly pink flamingos and our first pair of Kentish Plovers. We lunched at Consecaniere before strolling north along the track. The highlight of the day was watching the incredible Flamingo display with wings flashing, synchronised head movements and of course the noise! A coffee stop (or Citron presse!) in Saintes Maries de la Mer enabled us to add Sandwich Tern and Turnstone to our trip list. From here we took a short walk down the track at Pont de Gau, where it was rather quiet, but we had excellent views of Glossy Ibis and a very vocal but non-showy Water Rail. The day ended with a wait at one of our Eagle Owl sites but, despite the male and female duetting for nearly an hour and a wonderful sunset, they refused to show. Day 4 - Tuesday 8th March 2016 Today we headed northwest from Avignon and up to Mont Ventoux. The sheltered southern slopes were gorgeous with crystal blue skies and snow on the ground; it was quite magical. Despite the biting northerly wind we managed to find several Common Crossbills feeding (gritting/salting?) in the road as we drove up the mountain. In the car park a small group of Alpine Accentors fed among the rocks and a gentle stroll through the pine trees resulted in excellent views of Crested and Coal Tits, Nuthatch and Goldcrests. Higher up the mountain several of the group had brief views of a male Citril Finch but the highlight of this walk was another superb showy group of Alpine Accentors. We lunched in a sheltered picnic site in the trees, before slowly heading down the mountain. An elusive Black Woodpecker kept us waiting before eventually everybody had some sort of a view. This was quickly followed by a brief Goshawk dashing through the pines. Mid-afternoon saw us leave the mountain and head to the world heritage site of Pont du Gard. Arriving late afternoon we took a short walk around this amazing Roman aqueduct. One of the first birds we saw was a newly arrived Alpine Swift whizzing around the bridge and at times flying through the arches! Clinging to the stone itself was another Wallcreeper; this bird appears to have wintered at the site and gave superb close views. As the sun started to dip, the south side of the bridge became a lovely sun-trap and the hoped-for Rock Sparrows started to come in to roost. We had an amazing hour watching over 100 Crag Martins hawking around the bridge and the Wallcreeper fought with the sparrows for space on the stone whilst serenaded by a male Serin! Day 5 - Wednesday 9th March 2016 The weather had changed today, with the cold wind and clear skies replaced by cloudy but calm conditions. We headed south and into the eastern Camargue. Our first stop was the pools and reedbeds at Mas d Agon. Here we located a nice selection of wading birds including Ruff, Common and Spotted Redshank and Common Snipe. It was nice to able to compare several similar species side by side. Common Kingfishers were much in evidence and we had some spectacular views including one bird catching and swallowing a crayfish - claws and all! The tower (platform) at Tour du Valat was our next stop where large numbers of wildfowl were present, including our only sightings of Northern Pintail and Eurasian Wigeon. South of Salin de Giraud we lunched by the saltpans with large numbers of Greater Flamingos wading around whilst a young Peregrine hunted the small waders flocks. A roadside Green 3 Limosa Holidays

4 Sandpiper gave superb close views. At the end of the road at Piemanson we explored the mud flats and saltpans and amongst the Black-headed Gulls we found two cracking Slenderbilled Gulls. The large wader flocks here were mainly of Dunlin and Little Stints but we were able to find other species including Grey and Kentish Plovers and a nice active group of Sanderling. With the weather deteriorating (starting to rain) we headed to the reserve at La Capeliere where we visited a couple of the hides. More Greater Flamingos where here along with Common Snipe and Eurasian Teal. Along the visitor trail a broken branch held three wonderful Stripeless Tree Frogs shortly followed by two incredibly close Penduline Tits. With the rain looking like it had set in, we decided to head back to the hotel. Day 6 - Thursday 10th March 2016 A slightly milder feel to the weather today, so in the morning we returned to the Petite Camargue. Walking the road again, large numbers of Chiffchaffs were present and another superb showy pair of Penduline Tits was seen. We next visited the nearby boardwalks at Scamandre again and we weren t disappointed with yet another Penduline Tit (in the car park!), while amongst the large numbers of teal we located five newly arrived stunning male Garganey. Back in Les Alpilles we lunched amongst the pine trees at the start of the track to La Caume and during lunch noticed quite a few beautiful Paper-white Narcissus growing around the car park. After our baguettes we strolled along the stunning footpath through the pinewoods and limestone cliffs and up to the radio-mast. It was rather quiet bird-wise and we recorded just a few species including Crested Tit, Firecrest, Raven and Red-legged Partridge and heard several Short-toed Treecreepers and Dartford Warblers calling. In the warm sunshine a few butterflies were on the wing and we spotted Green Hairstreak, Brimstone, Wall Brown and Red Admiral. One or two gorgeous Ophrys forestieri were located growing on the track side. After the walk there was just enough time for a cafe stop at Les Baux before heading back to the hotel for our final supper. Day 7 - Friday 11th March 2016 With our bags packed and the mini bus loaded we said au revoir to the hotel and headed south back to the area around the Crau. We had just a spare hour before we had to head to the airport so we had a look at Vergieres again. The mistral was back and, blowing strongly now, it made birding difficult but we still managed good views of Crested Larks, Black Redstarts, Linnets and Sardinian Warblers. Moving just a short distance down the road in the mini-bus, we spotted a large raptor flying over which was soon identified as a newly arrived Short-toed Eagle. We watched the bird circling over the Crau whilst mobbed by several crows. Soon it was time to head to the airport and a hassle free journey back to the UK. Annotated List of Birds Recorded (n=134) Greylag Goose Anser anser A single at Pont du Gau was our only sighting. Mute Swan Cygnus olor Small numbers seen on four dates at various locations. Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna Small numbers seen in the brackish areas of the Camargue. Gadwall Anas strepera Several flocks numbering many hundreds seen at several sites within the Camargue. Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope About 100 seen at Tour du Valat on 9th. 4 Limosa Holidays

5 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos Small numbers seen at a variety of locations. Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata Seen on four dates at various sites within the Camargue. Northern Pintail Anas acuta Ten were seen at Tour de Valat on 9th. Garganey Anas querquedula Five stunning drakes were seen amongst several hundred teal at reserve Scamandre on 10th. Eurasian Teal Anas crecca Small numbers seen in the Camargue. Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina Small numbers seen at four sites in the Camargue. Common Pochard Aythya ferina A pair seen on two dates at the reserve Scamandre. Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa Seen in small numbers on three dates. Common Pheasant Phasianus colchicus Singles on three dates. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Seen on four dates at various sites. Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus Several hundred seen on four dates. Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis About 20 at Piemanson and c. 100 distantly on Etang de Vaccares on 9th Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus Seen in large numbers (many hundreds) on the three dates we visited the Camargue. White Stork Ciconia ciconia Seen in small numbers most days, including several pairs on nests. Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus A huge flock of over 500 was at Mas d Agon on 9th, with smaller numbers at four other sites in the Camargue. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Small numbers seen on three dates. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Common even in the dry areas. Great Egret Ardea alba Small numbers seen daily. Little Egret Egretta garzetta Small numbers seen daily. Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Seen on every date at many locations. Short-toed Snake Eagle Circaetus gallicus One was seen circling the Crau near Vergieres on 11th. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus A pale morph bird gave wonderful views circling over the reserve Scamandre with White Storks on 7th. Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Singles on three dates. Northern Goshawk Accipiter gentilis One briefly in the pinewoods on Mount Ventoux on 8th. Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus Common in the Camargue. 5 Limosa Holidays

6 Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus A female gave prolonged views as she hunted the corn bunting flock at Mas Chauvet on 6th and a male seen briefly from the mini-bus on the same date. Red Kite Milvus milvus Half a dozen on 6th around the Crau were our only sightings. Black Kite Milvus migrans At least 20 around the Crau on 6th and a similar number over the rubbish dump near Marseille on 11th. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo Seemingly everywhere, every day! Little Bustard Tetrax tetrax About 10 at Vergieres on 6th and one flushed from our lunch stop on the Crau on the same date. Water Rail Rallus aquaticus Heard at several sites in the Camargue. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Seen in small numbers in the Camargue. Eurasian Coot Fulica atra Good numbers at many sites on four dates. Common Crane Grus grus About 100 seen distantly over the Crau on 6th and a flock of about 30 making a lot of noise in fields at Mas d Agon on 9th. Eurasian Stone-curlew Burhinus oedicnemus A pair at Vergieres on 6th and birds heard calling there on 11th. Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta About 200 at Consecanaire on 7th and c100 at Piemanson on 9th. Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus Small flocks seen on three dates. European Golden Plover Pluvialis apricaria Flocks of several hundred seen in the Crau and in the Camargue. Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola Small numbers seen at Piemanson on 9th. Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula A single at Consecaniere on 7th and c30 at Piemanson on 9th. Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus Four at Concecanaire on 7th and then at least two with the fantastic wader flock at Piemanson on 9th. Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago Several birds seen at two sites on two dates. Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa Small numbers seen at three sites in the Camargue. Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata Seen at three sites within the Camargue on two dates. Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus Three at Mas d Agon on 9th. Common Redshank Tringa totanus Small numbers seen in the Camargue on two dates. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus A single by the roadside at Piemanson on 9th. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Singles on two dates and three sites within the Camargue. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Two on the breakwaters at Saintes Maries de la Mer on 7th. 6 Limosa Holidays

7 Sanderling Calidris alba Ten with other waders at Piemanson on 9th. Little stint Calidris minuta About 200 with the wader flock at Piemanson on 9th. Dunlin Calidris alpina About 1000 at Piemanson on 9th. Ruff Philomachus pugnax A flock of c14 at Mas d Agon on 9th. Slender-billed Gull Chroicocephalus genei Two of these superb gulls were seen at Piemanson on 9th. Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus Seen daily at many sites. Mediterranean Gull Ichthyaetus melanocephalus Small numbers seen on three dates in a variety of locations. Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis Sandwich Tern Thalasseus sandvicensis Up to ten birds seen at Saintes Maries de la Mer on 7th and a single at Piemanson on 9th. Feral Pigeon Columba livia Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus Small numbers seen most days. Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Eurasian Eagle Owl Bubo bubo A wonderful duet by a pair for over an hour at one of our sites on 7th. Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba One gave superb views flying through the arches at Pont du Gard on 8th. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis Ones and twos seen at various sites on five dates, some giving excellent views. Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops One briefly from the mini-bus outside Arles on 6th. Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major One heard calling at La Caume on 10th. Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius One on Mount Ventoux on 8th. European Green Woopecker Picus viridis One calling around the hotel most mornings. Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Seen daily. Peregrine Falco peregrinus A 1st-winter bird was watched hunting over the saltpans at Piemanson on 9th. Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis At least three on the Crau on 6th. Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius Seen on three dates. Eurasian Magpie Pica pica Western Jackdaw Coloeus monedula Rook Corvus frugilegus Recorded on three dates 7 Limosa Holidays

8 Carrion Crow Corvus corone Hooded Crow Corvus cornix One was seen at Mas Chauvet on 6th. Northern Raven Corvus corax Three at Les Baux on 5th, a single at Mont Ventoux on 8th and a pair at La Caume on 10th. Coal Tit Periparus ater Small numbers seen on Mount Ventoux on 8th. European Crested Tit Lophophanes cristatus At least 15 birds at Mount Ventoux on 8th and a smaller number at La Caume on 10th. Marsh Tit Poecile palustris A pair proved rather elusive on Mount Ventoux on 8th. Eurasian Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus Ones and twos seen daily. Great Tit Parus major Eurasian Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus Recorded on three dates in the Camargue with the largest number of at least 15 birds at La Capeliere on 9th, two of which gave outrageous views. Bearded Reedling Panurus biarmicus Two males showed well in the Petite Camargue on 7th. Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis Seen at various locations in good numbers. Crested Lark Galerida cristata Small numbers seen on three dates at a variety of locations. Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra Five birds were seen on the Crau on 6th. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica A single over the Crau on 6th. Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris At least 25 at Les Baux on 5th and well over 100 were recorded at Pont du Gard on 8th. Cetti s Warbler Cettia cetti Seen and heard on four dates at a variety of locations. Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus Small groups seen on three dates. Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita Seen daily in good numbers. Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Recorded in good numbers on four dates at a variety of locations. Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla Seen daily around the hotel and ones and twos seen elsewhere most days. Dartford Warbler Sylvia undata A single heard calling at La Caume on 10th refused to show itself. Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala Ones and twos seen at a few sites. Common Firecrest Regulus ignicapilla Recorded on five dates. Goldcrest Regulus regulus Small numbers recorded at on two dates. Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes Seen daily. 8 Limosa Holidays

9 Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea A single showed very well on Mont Ventoux on 8th. Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria Two at Les Baux on 5th and one at Pont du Gard on 8th performed superbly! Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla Several birds heard singing at La Caume on 10th. Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris Common Blackbird Turdus merula Common, seen daily. Redwing Turdus iliacus Singles recorded on three dates. Song Thrush Turdus philomelos Singles seen daily at many sites. European Robin Erithacus rubecula Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros Singles and small groups at many locations daily. Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius Two stunning males at Les Baux on 5th. European Stonechat Saxicola rubicola Small numbers seen daily. House Sparrow Passer domesticus Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus Recorded on three dates, the largest flock being over 150 in fields at Mas d Agon, 9th. Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia At least 20 came into roost at Pont du Gard on 8th. Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris Four at Les Baux on 5th and then two different groups (a four then a five) on Mont Ventoux on 8th. Dunnock Prunella modularis A single at Les Baux on 5th was our only sighting. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea Singles seen on three dates. White Wagtail Motacilla alba Ones and twos seen daily. Richard s Pipit Anthus richardi Two seen and heard in flight at Mas Chauvet on 6th. Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta About 50 at Mas d Agon on 9th. Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs Common Linnet Linaria cannabina Small numbers at several sites. Common [Red] Crossbill Loxia curvirostra Half a dozen seen on Mount Ventoux on 8th. European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis Small numbers seen at quite a few sites. Citril Finch Carduelis citrinella Two singles briefly on Mont Ventoux on 8th. 9 Limosa Holidays

10 European Serin Serinus serinus Seen and heard daily ay a variety of sites. Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra Many hundreds recorded on three dates. Common Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus Small numbers on four dates. Other notable Flora and Fauna seen included: Butterflies Green-veined White Artogeia napi Small White Artogeia rapae Brimstone Gonepteryx rhamni Green Hairstreak Callophrys rubi Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta Painted Lady Vanessa cardui Wall Brown Lasiommata megera Moths Hummingbird Hawkmoth Macroglossum stellatarum Mammals Coypu Myocastor coypus European Hare Lepus europaeus Reptiles & Amphibians Stripeless (Mediterranean) Tree Frog Hyla meridionalis Common Wall Lizard Podarcis muralis Flowers Giant Orchid Himantoglossum robertianum De Forestier s Bee Orchid Ophrys forestieri Paperwhite Narcissus Narcissus papyraceus 10 Limosa Holidays