Laraquat Naturally Derived Specialty Conditioning Polymer for Hair Care

Transcription

1 PersonalCare Laraquat Naturally Derived pecialty Conditioning Polymer for Hair Care AP Code: Preservation ystem: None INCI Name: Galactoarabinan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Key Product Attributes Introduction Laraquat specialty conditioning polymer begins with the natural building blocks of the larch tree active. The Larch tree has a history of beneficial characteristics, dating back to the use of the tree by Native Americans. They utilized gum resin rich in galactoarabinan (GA) to help improve overall health, the digestive and immune systems in particular. GA, a natural polysaccharide polymer, is harvested from the larch tree in the Northern parts of the U.. using patented proprietary extraction technologies. Naturally derived specialty conditioning polymer Conditions hair to improve manageability and combing Reduces hair frizz in humid conditions Reduces static and fly-away hair Protects hair from heat damage and reduces breakage uitable for all hair types, including ethnic hair Use Level: 1 3 % GA has demonstrated many benefits in skin and hair care applications. This active has film-forming properties which have been shown to protect hair from damage and improve conditioning of hair for soft texture and

2 PersonalCare Laraquat Natural-Derived pecialty Conditioning Polymer for Hair Care flexibility. This multifunctional active is available for Personal Care applications as the product LaraCare A200. The Lonza Nutrition business also draws on the larch tree with its ResistAid ingredient for nutritional supplements, which provides both digestive health benefits and immune system support. In its pure form, GA is highly dispersible in water. To make this ingredient even more effective for hair care applications, Lonza has boosted the natural benefits of GA, enriching it further with quaternization technology. This resulting chemistry is the unique and patented Laraquat specialty conditioning polymer. The process adds quaternary nitrogen groups onto the backbone of the polysaccharide, creating an ingredient more substantive to hair. It is a mild, non-irritating, water-soluble and non-ethoxylated polymer that works in a variety of formulations. With an average molecular weight of approximately 20,000 Daltons, it provides lighter styling for leave-in products and a more weightless feel, while still offering substantial conditioning benefits to hair. This ingredient was evaluated for key conditioning and functional benefits through tress studies. These evaluations show the Laraquat polymer improves manageability, reduces static and offers protection to hair from humidity, reducing frizz significantly. It also reduces breakage and shields hair from thermal damage. Conserving Nature s Powerful ource for Health and Beauty Galactoarabinan (GA) is a natural, renewable and sustainable resource from the Larch tree. Careful harvesting minimizes the impact on the environment and preserves the population of the trees Harvesting only completed during a narrow timeframe of the year, between December and March To help reduce the impact on the environment and population, the harvest levels are kept below the recommended levels to prevent the resource from being threatened Re-seeding is accomplished by purposefully leaving a minimum of high quality seed trees per acre Total population of the tree species in this area of Minnesota has increased since 1990 These efforts are intended to ensure this natural resource will continue to be available in the future. 2

3 ubstantivity to Hair The Laraquat polymer was evaluated for its substantive effects using a Rubine Red dye substantivity measuring technique. The material was evaluated at 3.0 % use level in a variety of formulations, including conditioner, non-ionic and anionic shampoo bases in rinse off applications on previously damaged European blonde hair tresses. The anionic dye, Rubine Red, complexes with cationic ingredients that have deposited on the hair tresses. The intensity and shade of the resultant dye deposition on the tresses is indicative of the amount of cationic polysaccharide that has deposited. The results show this ingredient to be highly substantive even in rinse-off formulations, as shown in Fig. 1 by the red dye color on the hair tresses. canning electron photomicrographs of these hair fibers treated with Laraquat polymer are shown next to untreated fibers. These images demonstrate differences in the appearance of the tress cuticles when comparing the untreated tresses to the tresses treated with the Laraquat polymer. The treated tress has a smoother surface with less indications of cuticle damage. Fig. 1: Rubine Red Deposition Testing Fig. 2: EM Impact on Hair Fiber Appearance Left: Control Right: Laraquat Polymer 3.0 % Use Level in Non-ionic shampoo base Top: Untreated Damaged Hair Tress Bottom: Damaged Hair Tress Treated Laraquat 3.0 % in Anionic hampoo base 3

4 PersonalCare Laraquat Natural-Derived pecialty Conditioning Polymer for Hair Care Efficacy Testing Background For examination of the effects of the polymer on thermal protection, combing and anti-static studies, tests were performed on European brown hair. To examine the influence of the polymer on frizz control, testing was performed on Virgin Ethnic hair. The tresses were dam aged for wet combing and thermal protection by using a standard hydrogen peroxide bleaching protocol. All experiments were performed after overnight equilibration of the hair at 60% Relative Humidity (RH). Eight tresses were used per treatment. A simple conditioner formulation was employed to deliver the Laraquat in gredient. The control was the same base formulation without an additional conditioning agent. Improved Manageability Consumers want easy to manage hair that they can groom without struggle. One of the main functions of conditioning agents is to enable easier combing and improve manageability of hair. Tangled and unconditioned hair requires more force and is harder to comb, while conditioned hair is easier to comb and manage. Improved conditioning and manageability can be shown through combing studies. This evaluation shows how conditioning products assist in detangling hair and allow for easier combing and grooming of the hair through the measurement of the force needed to comb the tresses. The combing study was completed with Laraquat polymer in a conditioner formulation. Tresses were treated and rinsed before evaluation. The studies were performed with combing while the hair was wet. The tresses were combed with an automated combing instrument that measures frictional forces and provides a quantitative measurement of the force needed to comb the tress. The reduction of force needed shows the improved combing and manageability from the ingredient. Reduced tatic & Fly-away Hair Consumers hair can be stressed from low humidity and its impact on their hair structure. With low humidity, hair can be negatively impacted by this reduction of moisture. It is well known that moisture can help to plasticize hair fibers, while low humidity causes hair to become more brittle. Combing hair during low humidity conditions builds up greater anionic charge, leading to a build-up of static electricity in the hair. With the build-up of static, consumers must then deal with fly-away hair. This especially occurs in winter months when low humidity conditions are more prevalent. Consumers look for hair care products to reduce this static and tame their fly-away hair. Conditioning agents such as the Laraquat polymer can assist with reducing the static build up. This impact can be measured by combing the hair in a low humidity environment that subsequently builds up static charge in the fibers. Hair tresses were treated, rinsed and dried. The tresses were combed and measured by a sensor for the static buildup within the tress. Results of the static build-up studies are shown below. Fig. 4: Anti-tatic Conditioner tudy tatic Build-up in Tresses tatic Bulidup (Volts) Control Laraquat (1.0 % Use Level) Fig. 3: Wet Combing Conditioner tudy Box Plot of Maximum Load (gf) Maxium Load (gf) Control Laraquat (1.0 % Use Level) The Laraquat polymer reduces static over the control conditioner. This demonstrates a reduction of the static buildup, resulting in less fly-away hair over the control. The Laraquat polymer shows improved manageability through reduction of force needed for combing over the control. 4

5 Comparative Benchmark A commercially available cationic polymer was included for comparative purposes as shown below. A slightly higher use level of the Laraquat polymer was employed to provide a more equivalent comparison based on active level. Because of the significant differences in molecular weight between the Laraquat polymer and the benchmark polymer, the higher use level compensates for the difference in molecular weight. Fig 6: Treated Hair Tresses in Humidity Controlled Environment Ingredient Use Level Active Level Molecular Wt. Laraquat 1.0 % 0.4 % ~20,000 Daltons Polyquaternium % 0.3 % ~450,000 Daltons Frizz Control Consumers are continually searching for better reduction of frizz over extended periods of time and this is a common demand for ethnic hair care products. Frizz results from the hair absorbing moisture which alters the ionic nature of the surface of the hair, making it more anionic. This is the reason for the increased frizz in high humidity conditions. Control Leave-in Conditioner 0 min. Leave-in Conditioner with Laraquat (1.0 % use level) 0 min. Virgin ethnic hair tresses were treated with the leave-in conditioner and then evaluated in a controlled environment with 80 % RH. During a 24-hour period, the tresses were evaluated against a backdrop and quantitatively measured for the tress volume. The reduction in tress volume demonstrates the ability of the cationic ingredient to neutralize the anionic charge and reduce the appearance of frizz. The area of individual dry tresses is determined by pixel count. The amount of frizz (volume of the tress) is calculated as a percentage of reversion relative to the tresses before treatment and final area of the tresses. Results of these frizz control studies are shown below. Fig. 5: Frizz Control Leave-in Conditioner tudy Results for All Treatments at 80 % RH Volume % Control Leave-in Conditioner 24 hours elapsed Leave-in Conditioner with Laraquat (1.0 % use level) 24 hours elapsed The visual impact of the treatment with Laraquat polymer is noticeable when reviewing the images of the tresses during the controlled environment evaluation. The tresses show a noticeable improvement with the smoothness and volume of the tress. There is a reduction in the frizz of the tress treated with the Laraquat polymer over the tress treated with the control conditioner min. 30 min. 1 Hour 2 Hours 4 Hours 8 Hours 24 Hours Control Laraquat (1.0 % Use Level) Polyquaternium-10 (0.3 % Use Level) 5

6 PersonalCare Laraquat Natural-Derived pecialty Conditioning Polymer for Hair Care Thermal Protection and Reduction of Hair Breakage Commonly used heated treatments, such as flat irons and hair dryers, can lead to damaged hair fibers from the exposure to heat. As a result, hair can be more prone to breakage. Protection against this thermal exposure can help reduce breakage of hair. Consumers need more protection against thermal damage to hair so they can continue to enjoy the flexibility and convenience of using their preferred heated styling tools. Damaged hair tresses were treated with the leave-in conditioner, then blow dried for a constant time and each tress was flat ironed with 20 passes of a flat iron at 232 C. The tresses were then subjected to repeated grooming experiments using a rotating drum combing wheel which results in breakage of the fibers over time. The rotating wheel contains a variable speed motor, and experiments were performed at 50 strokes/minute. Collection plates were placed under each tress to save broken fiber fragments, while spacer plates on the rotating combing drum prevent cross contamination. The number of broken fibers is recorded as a function of repeated combing and brush stroke. The Laraquat polymer reduces snags, entanglements and abrasion to help in substantially lowering the number of broken fibers as shown in the data below. Conclusion Lonza has boosted the natural benefits of Galactoarabinan, enriching it further with quaternization technology to make a product that delivers improved benefits in hair care applications. Consumers are looking for conditioning products that provide noticeable benefits for their hair. Many consumers want more manageable hair, with less frizz, static and breakage. Laraquat specialty conditioning polymer is a unique and innovative ingredient that delivers on these consumer needs and offers value in multiple hair care applications. This patented technology s extensive multifunctional properties include frizz control protection in high humidity, protection from heat damage resulting in less hair breakage, improved manageability and combing, and reduction of static and fly-away hair. In addition to these benefits, its lower molecular weight makes it flexible and adaptable to many formulations, including sprays and foams. It provides substantial conditioning functions without weighing hair down, regardless of whether the cationic polymer is delivered from leave-in or rinse-off formulations. It can noticeably improve the functionality of shampoos and conditioners, and other leave-in or styling hair care products. Fig. 7: Heat Protection Leave-in Conditioner tudy # of Broken Fibers after 10,000 trokes # of Broken Fibers after 10,000 trokes Control Laraquat (1.0 % Use Level) Polyquaternium-10 (0.3 % Use Level) The Laraquat polymer reduces the number of broken fibers of hair, offering protection to hair from thermal damage and breakage. It shows a 48 % reduction over the control for the number of broken hair fibers per tress. Consumers will see more protection for their hair when using styling tools such as flat irons and less hair breakage when grooming after those treatments. 6

7 olubility & Formulating Information Laraquat specialty conditioning polymer provides flexibility in formulations while still delivering substantial conditioning benefits. This active is easy to formulate and will work in any hair care formulations, including hair sprays. It works in multiple surfactant systems including silicone-free or sulfate-free hair care formulations. This material is in liquid form, ready to use and will not lead to fish-eyes. Unlike many conventional conditioning agents, it will not reduce the foam of anionic and non-ionic surfactants. It can be used at higher levels without negatively impacting viscosity or aesthetics of the formulation. This conditioning polymer is ideal for leave-in and rinse-off applications for hair care. Product pecifications Typical Properties Appearance Clear to hazy liquid Color Amber Odor light Active Polymer 40.0 % 55.0 % Ash 5.0 % Maximum IR Matches tandard Preservative ystem None ph Laraquat specialty conditioning polymer is water soluble and can be used in clear systems. This active should only be added in the end of the batch under 45 C. It is not soluble in oils and esters. Laraquat polymer can easily be formulated with salt and electrolytes tolerance thickeners to form clear gels, provided that they are pre-neutralized. A slight loss in viscosity will result but can easily be compensated for by adjusting the level of resin. olubility Chart Laraquat olubility Characteristics 3.0 % Ingredient odium Lauryl ulfate odium Laureth ulfate Cocamidopropyl Betaine Decyl Glucoside Cocamide EDA Ammonium Lauryl ulfate Aqueous Alcohol (60/40) Glycerin Propylene Glycol D = Dispersible = oluble I= Insoluble Procedure To a small glass vial, add the required amounts of each ingredient (3 % / 97 %) and shake well. For ingredients requiring heating, melt until liquid and add in the Laraquat polymer. hake well and allow to cool to room temperature. D D D I 7

8 UA Lonza Personal Care 70 Tyler Place outh Plainfield, NJ Tel witzerland Lonza Ltd Muenchensteinerstrasse Basel Tel This document is an overview for professionals of certain scientific information on the subject ingredient and certain scientific information on clinical and other trials with such ingredient. No claims are made herein for any particular consumer product, and any use of these statements is the sole responsibility of the user based on its independent evaluation. The republication of the statements made herein is prohibited. The recommended use for our product is as a cosmetic ingredient. It is always important to ensure that final communications to the consumer on cosmetic products containing our ingredient products comply with the applicable claims regulations in the regions/countries where the cosmetic products are marketed. tatements made in this document may indicate mechanisms of the subject ingredient generally, and such claims may not be suitable for a finished cosmetic product. Users of our product should make an independent determination as to the appropriate use of such product in a given finished cosmetic formulation, as well as the suitability of, and support for, any claims made in labeling or advertising for such finished cosmetic formulation. The information contained herein is believed to be correct and corresponds to the latest state of scientific and technical knowledge. However, no warranty, either express or implied, is made regarding its accuracy or the results to be obtained from the use of such information. The user assumes all risks of use and/or handling of our products. No statement herein is intended or should be construed as a recommendation to infringe any existing patent. NO WARRANTIE ARE GIVEN HEREIN AND ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIE, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION ANY IMPLIED WARRANTIE OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNE FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOE, ARE EXPRELY DICLAIMED. 05/ Lonza Ltd