2013 Tommy Brosnan

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2 YOUR GUIDE TO SUCCESSFUL LAWN CARE With Tommy B We all want to achieve that PERFECT GREEN LAWN and having a Carpet Green Lawn can be one of the most central focal points in our overall Garden Design. Your lawn is like a canvas' that connects and showcases all the different features in your garden; therefore the quality of the lawn will determine the overall visual flow of the garden and will have a huge impact on the overall appearance. This Lawn Care Guide will help you if are planning a new lawn or working to improve and care for an existing one. In this guide you will discover the most important things you need to take into consideration, if you want to achieve a beautiful carpet green lawn. To achieve and maintain a carpet green lawn all year round requires some maintenance, but taking action at the right time and with the right product is key to saving a LOT of time, hassle and money when it comes to Lawn Care. Spring and Autumn are critical times in your annual Lawn Care Programme. Spring is a good time of year to address issues like moss and weeds. Factors

3 that really affect the appearance of your lawn during the Summer time. Autumn is the time of year where you get the opportunity to give your lawn exactly the right Lawn Feed it needs to survive the Winter and by applying Lawn Feed at the right time you also ensure a healthier lawn for the next season and it also ensures far less work for you! TOP TIPS BEFORE WE START! Before we get into the nitty gritty of what you have to do and what you need to know, there are 2 tips I would like to give you at this point. 1. Know Your Size: From talking to clients on a regular basis about their lawns, I find that one really important and hugely overlooked factor is to knowing the size of your lawn. This is fundamental when it comes to knowing how much lawn seed, treatment product or fertilizer to use. If you don t know the size of your lawn and you are estimating', it can cost you a lot when it comes to product wastage and if you are not applying the correct amounts of feed or treatment product for the amount of lawn you have, how can you expect to get optimum results and you can actually burn the lawn. 2. Use a Spreader: Getting an even green lawn can be easily achieved when you know the tricks of the trade! One thing I would advise you to pay particular attention to is to evenly distribute any fertilizer you apply. Ideally you would apply this with a Spreader so you can get a nice even coverage when spreading the feed. Some fertilizers now come with a

4 self spreader on the container which makes it easier for small lawns, but obviously if you are treating a larger area, a good Spreader is only the way to go. STARTING FROM SCRATCH WITH A NEW LAWN Ok, let's get started. First let's look at the fundamental factors that will help you achieve success with your Lawn when starting a new lawn, plus I have included a 'New Lawn Checklist' for you at the end of this guide. If you are starting a new lawn, it is important to understand that one of the most fundamental factors when it comes to achieving a good lawn is good topsoil; it is the most essential ingredient when creating a good lawn. Soil preparation is a key factor in lawn success. Try to use the best topsoil you can get your hands on, as poor topsoil will only ever give you a poor lawn. The soil needs to be non-compacted and stone free, before you sow the lawn seed. To achieve this, avoid working the soil when it is wet, this will enable you to have a soft fluffy consistency in your topsoil. For most lawns the 'No. 2 grade' seed will have the best mix of seed to create a tough enough finish for wear and tear, but also produce a nice soft green and is very suited to weather conditions such as in Ireland. Apply at one and half (1 1/2) ounces per sq. yard.

5 Please note when spreading new lawn seed, it will also need an application of fertilizer the same day as the lawn seed. Apply Growmore or at a rate of 2 ounces per sq.yard. I do not recommend watering lawn seed especially in a large area, it is far better to let the lawn seed adjust itself environmentally and germinate naturally. I have added a summary on what to do with new lawns near the end of this guide as a easy reference checklist. TOP 3 ESSENTIALS FOR LAWN SUCCESS Now, let's have a look at the Top 3 fundamental factors you need to pay attention to when planning for success with your Lawn. 1.DRAINAGE One of the most important factors you need to take care of if you want to have a great Lawn is drainage. You will need to make sure the soil is free draining or you will have a host of problems later on. If the drainage is poor you may need to put in drainage piping and stone to drain the water around the roots of the grass. If the underground drainage is sufficient, then it is merely an issue with poor drainage on the top 5 6 of the lawn, so spiking or aerating the lawn can alleviate this problem. Spring and Autumn are good times to spike the lawn, with a fork or aerator (manual or petrol). This will ensure the soil is not heavily compacted, it improves the drainage and also helps root development. This in turn promotes better nutrient absorption.

6 If the soil type is of excess clay, then putting in horticultural grit into the holes after spiking will help keep the lawn aerated longer and will improve the soil profile. Persistent weeds like rushes are a symptom of poor drainage and aeration. These can be treated with Dichophar spray at the rate of 250 ml per 20 litres of water. This spray will also treat weeds in the lawn but tends to have very little effect on clover. Please note, you cannot use a weed or even a moss treatment on young lawns (ie) lawns that are less than 12 month old. 2. SOIL PH: If your soil is very acidic then an application of Lime will help release unavailable nutrients in the soil. Beware however to always do a soil test before you apply Lime. Easy to use kits are available from your local garden centre. 3. ASPECT: You will also need to pay particular attention to the aspect ; (ie) is the site exposed to extreme weather or shaded by buildings, or trees. This will have an impact on weeds, moss growth and the overall ability of the lawn to perform. If your proposed lawn is in a shaded location, or you have areas within your

7 lawn that are shaded for example; by large trees, it is advisable to use a specific lawn seed in those locations which will thrive in shaded conditions and it also helpful to cut the lower branches off the tree and let more light at the lawn. COMMON PROBLEMS Now, let's look at some common problems you are likely to encounter with an existing lawn and I have also put together a 12 month lawn care programme for you at the end of this guide so you have a plan of action you can easily refer to all year round. BARE PATCHES If you have noticed any bare patches in your lawn, September is an excellent time to re-seed those patches. This can also be done in early Spring - however doing it in September early October is my preferred option as the ground is warmer and the seed takes very well. Make sure you also use a fertilizer with the lawn seed (something like Growmore). WEEDS The most common weeds in grass include Clover, Creeping Buttercups and Plantain. Weeds need to be actively growing to treat them successfully. Early March or again in Autumn is a good time to do this with a product called Dichophar. CLOVER This is common in lawns that are compacted and low in feed. As most clover weed killers have been removed from the market, Dichophar weed killer spray would be more effective as a clover treatment.

8 CREEPING BUTTERCUPS & PLANTAIN These are also common weeds; plantain can also appear as a result of the lawn being compacted. You can spray these weeds with a weed killer such as Dicophar. This is designed for lawns, so it will kill the weeds but it will not harm the grass. SCUTCH GRASS If you have SCUTCH grass in the lawn you will need to do a weedlick treatment. This is done by making a 1:1 mix of Roundup and water and painting the mixture onto the individual scutch grass leaves. MOSS Moss is such a common problem in lawns. There are usually 5 main reasons for Moss in the lawn: 1. Poor drainage 2. Low PH 3. Soil Compaction 4. Too much shade 5. Cutting the lawn too low If poor drainage is the issue which can be common in countries that get a lot of rainfall, just like Ireland, you should probably consider draining the lawn using drainage pipe and chippings and follow the advice on aeration as described in the Drainage section earlier.

9 If low PH is the problem - a simple PH test is also advisable. This is simple to carry out with a home PH test kit available from your local garden centre. If the PH is less than 6 7, apply some lime in mid Spring to raise the PH levels. If compacted soil is the problem follow the steps to aerate it. If shade is the problem - once you have raked off the moss, you may see some bare patches, so you can apply some suitable lawn seed in those areas to fill those in as advised earlier. If cutting the lawn too low is the problem you know you need to start off the season with a high cut and slowly take the mower settings down. Never cut your lawn too low in Spring or Autumn, your first cut should just be the light top off the grass HOW TO TREAT MOSS IN THE LAWN You can treat Moss once any signs of frost has gone, usually the best time is early Spring and again in Autumn. You can use a combination product such as: Weed, Feed & Moss Killer once the frost is gone, which will treat the weeds and the moss and also feed the lawn all at the same time. Alternatively, you can use a product designed specifically to treat just the moss, such as: Moss Buster or Sulphate of Iron. These are applied using a knapsack sprayer. Give the lawn a light cut using a high setting and after about 3 days, spray with

10 Sulphate of Iron, mixed with lukewarm water. Then after approximately 10 days you will need to rake off the dead moss, and the lawn will need a bit of a tonic, so you can feed it by applying Aftercut with a spreader. This is one of the few lawn feeds that is suitable to use in February. Usage: Sulphate of Iron 1/2 kg to 5 litres of warm water, apply using a sprayer Moss Buster 1/2 kg to 5 litres of warm water, apply using a sprayer FEEDING THE LAWN Once you have dealt with any weeds, or moss problems, you will need to make sure you feed the lawn regularly. You can feed with a product called 'Signature Organics'. You can use this product after your third cut of the season and repeat the application 4 6 weeks later never apply this fertilizer if drought conditions are present. Please see 12 month Lawn care programme at the end of this guide for detailed instructions and month by month breakdown of how to care for and feed your lawn. READY TO GO LAWNS I am pretty sure some of you would like an INSTANT well - established carpet green lawn without having to wait years for it! Well, of course you can just use an instant roll out lawn. Remember this is a mature top quality lawn and it is several years ahead of a lawn starting off from seed, so perhaps it is the

11 perfect solution for your carpet green canvas! Ok, so we have covered most of the fundamentals you need to keep in mind if you want to achieve that carpet green lawn, in the next section I have listed a summary of the top 10 tips for new lawns and then I have complied a Lawn Care program chart, so you have your 12 month checklist to hand! CHECKLIST FOR NEW LAWNS: 1. TOPSOIL: Good quality LOAM Topsoil. You simply will not get a good lawn without good topsoil. So if you are laying a new lawn, make sure you make this a priority and import some good quality topsoil, ideally with a PH of Make sure the topsoil you get is free of weeds like: mare s tail, scotch grass, dock leaves, Japanese knotweed. If any of these are present it is best not to use this topsoil but should this be your only source you will need to spray with Roundup & Altrix mixture, on the growing vegetation 3 4 weeks before you move the soil. 2. DRAINAGE: For a quality lawn to grow it will need to be free draining, therefore if there is an issue with drainage of surface water this will need to be dealt with by putting in drainage piping and clean stone chippings to take the water away from the roots of the grass. 3. AERATE: Make sure when you layout your new lawn that the soil is not wet when you are working it, as this will cause the soil to compact. 4. SEED: In general No. 2 grade seed will have the best mix of seed to

12 create a tough enough finish for ware and tare but also produce a nice soft green. Apply with a spreader. 5. FERTILIZER: Apply a fertilizer such as Growmore the same day as the seed to provide a rich base for the lawn to grow. 6. WATERING: Unless your lawn is really small, watering lawn seed is impractical. Natural germination is by far the most suitable type of germination. Lawn seed is generally safe in the ground for several weeks without watering and will germinate naturally when conditions are right. * If the first flush of growth coincides with a period of drought, you will either need to water the lawn consistently morning and evening, or alternatively, if the area is very big and consistent watering is impractical, you may have to sacrifice the first flush of growth and reseed at the end of the drought period. 7. ROLLING: Roll the lawnseed the day you put it in with a light roller as this will connect the seed to the soil. If hot weather is predicted a light rake of the seed before you roll it will be necessary. 8. CUTTING: In general when the lawn is 2 3 high you can give it a very light cut, to encourage the process of thickening the grass. The weather should be dry when this is done to avoid scarring the surface of the lawn and disturbing the young grass seedlings. 9. FEEDING: A good lawn needs at least 5 feeds per year so after about

13 your 3 rd or 4 th cut you can begin your lawn-feeding program. Once you use a good quality lawn feed it will encourage the lawn to grow steadily rather than force it to grown quickly so this is also advantageous when it comes to the frequency of cutting! 10. WEEDS: If you have followed the simple guides / recommendations provided the only weeds that will grow are annuals and these will cut out after 3 to 4 cuts. I hope you have found this Lawn Care Guide useful. Once you know what you need to do and when you need to do it you should have a beautiful carpet green lawn in no time! Don't forget your 12 month Lawn Care Guide is on the next page, so you have your all year round plan of action on one page! If you are not already in our VIP Gardening circle, and receiving our weekly tipsand s, you can join for free by clicking on the link that takes you to the webpage. JOIN THE VIP GARDENING CIRCLE HERE Talk to you soon, Tommy B PS don't forget, next page for your 12 month Lawn Care Programme!

14 12 - MONTH LAWN CARE PROGRAMME MONTH: TREATMENT: RATE: OTHER: REMINDER: January None None Rake off any dead Get leaves Lawnmower February Aftercut (Late Feb) 3.5 Kg per 100m2 March Aftercut 3.5 Kg per 100m2 April (if moss/weeds present) April (if moss is not present) May (if soil is moist) Lawn Weed Feed & Moss killer Spring Signature Organics Spring Signature Organics 20 Kg per 500m2 20 Kg per 700m2 20 Kg per 700 m2 June Aftercut 3.5 Kg per 300 m2 July Signature Organics 20 Kg per 700 m2 August September Autumn Signature Organics Autumn Signature Organics 20 Kg per 700m2 20 Kg per 700 m2 Spike any compacted lawn Don t cut lawn too low Rake out moss from lawn 10 days after treatment Spray any weeds with Dicophar Don t use if soil is in drought Ideal in dry conditions cut every 5 days Cut every 5 days if possible Raise height of mower Rake dead leaves off the lawn October None None Re-sod damaged areas. Rake dead leaves off lawn November None None Rake dead leaves off the lawn December None None Rake dead leaves off the lawn Serviced Don t fertilize if weather is frosty Treat weeds and edge the lawn for great visual As rate of growth increases lower height of mower Keep blades edged on mower Lightly spike the lawn Edge lawn to give a great look Treat weeds with Weed Spot Killer Rake out any dead moss Spike / aerate, add sand to holes Finish mowing this month No Mowing No Mowing