Color theory and the law of color. Hair color chemistry, categories of color and peroxides. Hair and scalp analysis for hair coloring.

Transcription

1 E-HAIR COLLEGE 1. Read Chapter in Salon Fundamental textbook. 2. Complete study guide. 3. Read these additional notes. 4. For review go to Practice online and review quizzes, puzzles. 5. Study and complete Test Lesson # 16 Hair Coloring Color theory and the law of color. Level, intensity and tone for hair color formulation. Hair color chemistry, categories of color and peroxides. Hair and scalp analysis for hair coloring. Procedures in highlighting hair. Infection Control.

2 Color theory and the law of color Color theory Color is a form of light energy. Color theory is a system of understanding color relationships. The law of color states that, out of all the colors in the universe, only three yellow, red and blue are pure color. Melanin - Color pigment found in the hair. Natural Melanin - Client s natural hair color. Eumelanin - Melanin that gives black and brown color to hair. Pheomelanin -Melanin found in red hair. Very dark hair and most brunettes contain this pigment. Contributing pigment - This lies under the natural hair color. Artificial pigment Artificial color that is applied over natural pigmented hair. The foundation of hair coloring is based on modifying this pigment with hair color to create new pigment. HAIR STRUCTURE The hair structure will affect quality and success of a hair color service. CUTICLE The outermost layer, protects the cortex CORTEX The middle layer of the hair; gives hair strength and elasticity. Contains melanin - color pigment. Most important layer in hair coloring MEDULLA The medulla is the innermost layer, play a minor role in hair coloring WHY PEOPLE COLOR THEIR HAIR: GRAYING HAIR, SELF-IMAGE BOOST, SELF-EXPRESSION, FASHION STATEMENT, CORRECTIVE

3 THE LAW OF COLOR The law of color explains the relationships of color. PRIMARY COLORS Equal parts of red and blue always make violet (purple) Equal parts of blue and yellow always make green Equal parts of yellow and red always make orange Blue, red, yellow are the primary colors Cool colors have a lot of blue Warm colors have a lot of red Blue darkest primary color, the only cool primary color, strongest darkest color, Red The medium primary color. Red added to blue-based colors will cause them to appear lighter. Red added to yellow colors will cause them to become darker. Yellow The lightest primary color. When yellow is added to other colors, the resulting color is lighter and brighter in appearance. Black - When all three colors are present in equal proportions. Brown One part blue, two parts red and three parts yellow will make brown.

4 SECONDARY COLORS Green, orange, violet. Color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors Green is an equal combination of blue and yellow; Orange is an equal combination of red and yellow Violet is and equal combination of blue and red. TERTIARY COLORS Intermediate colors achieved by mixing a secondary color with its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts Blue-green, red -orange, blue-violet, yellow-orange, yellow green COMPLEMENTARY COLORS Primary and secondary colors positioned opposite each other on the color wheel. Complementary colors neutralize each other on the wheel Blue and orange, red and green, yellow and violet.

5 PRIMARY COLORS RED BLUE YELLOW SECONDARY COLORS GREEN ORANGE VIOLET TERTIARY COLORS RED-ORANGE RED-VIOLET BLUE-GREEN

6 BLUE VIOLET YELLOW GREEN YELLOW-ORANGE COOL WARM COLOR WHEEL RED-ORANGE RED-VIOLET BLUE-GREEN

7 COMPLIMENTARY COLORS NEUTRALIZE EACH OTHER + = + = + =

8 Level and tone for hair color formulation Level of Hair Color Every color has a degree of lightness or darkness, which is often described as level. Colorists use the level system to analyze the lightness or darkness of a hair color. Levels are arranged on a scale of one to ten, ten being the lightest and 1 being the darkest. The color wheel and hair color swatch books are a great help in identifying natural hair color levels. To determine depth level darkness or lightness: Take a 2 inch square section in crown area ad hold up from scalp, allowing light to pass through it. Use swatches from color chart and try and match the color with the swatch. Examine color on root area and on ends, this may vary if their color has grown out. Examine percentage of gray for formulation and addition of pigment that is lacking. The level of color will be what color you see such as light brown or dark blonde The tone will be if the hair is warm or cool. Look for tones in the hair to determine if the hair is warm or cool. Intensity of color refers to the strength of a color tone. If the color is a more faded or a very rich vibrant color this will be the intensity of a color. Tones are colors that are either cool or warm. Warm colors are yellow, orange and red colors and their combination on the color wheel. Cool colors are violet, blue and green colors and their combinations on the wheel.

9 Hair color chemistry, categories of color and peroxides CATEGORIES OF COLOR Non-Oxidative colors are not mixed with developer and are applied directly to the hair. These types of colors create only a physical change to the hair by depositing colors that shampoo out. Oxidative colors are mixed with hydrogen peroxide and can lift or deposit color pigment from the hair. They create a chemical change that has a longer lasting effect. PATCH TEST MUST BE GIVEN FOR ALL COLORS BUT TEMPORARY Temporary Colors 1. Large pigment molecules do not penetrate the cuticle layer. 2. Coats the hair shaft with a non-oxidative color. 3. Good for neutralizing unwanted tones. 4. Available in a variety of colors and products: Color rinses applied with each shampoo to add color Colored mousses and gels used for slight color and for dramatic effects Hair crayons or mascara used for dramatic effects Spray on hair color used for Halloween, drama performances Color-enhancing Shampoos Used to brighten color add highlights Pomades come in a variety of colors add tone the hair by creating special color effects on the hair. Semi-permanent Hair color 1. Pigment is smaller, partially penetrates into the cuticle layer and enters the cortex as an oxidative color. 2. Lasts through several shampoos depending on the porosity about 6-8 shampoos on healthy hair. 3. Frequent shampooing can remove color prematurely. 4. Colors are alkaline and may contain aniline derivative dyes. 5. Semi perm colors do not have to be mixed with peroxide.

10 6. Some colors come with an after rinse which is sometimes mistaken for peroxide. 7. Perform strand test. 8. Semi-perm will be permanent on porous hair. 9. Always follow manufacturer s directions. 10. Patch test and strand test are required. 11. Use protective cream; color will stain customer s skin. 12. Semi-permanent colors are sometimes referred to as glosses or color enhancers used to add dramatic color changes. 13. A patch test is required. Demi-permanent color 1. Also called long lasting semi-permanent color that is an oxidative color. 2. Low volume of peroxide should be added. 3. Strand test and patch test should be taken. 4. Penetrates into the cuticle and the cortex, slightly deeper than a semi-permanent. 5. Can lift a few shades lighter because of the peroxide used. 6. Has a similar pigment molecule as a semi-permanent color. 7. Good for covering unpigmented hair, refreshing faded color. 8. Usually has more shades available than semi. 9. Causes little or no damage if hair is not too porous. 10. Available as a gel, cream or liquid. 11. Contains no ammonia and are designed to deposit or add tone to the hair. 12. These colors are not designed to lift color from the hair. 13. A patch test is required since these colors usually contain aniline derivative tints.

11 Permanent Color 1. Mixed with hydrogen peroxide 10, volume. 2. Coverage of grey 100%. 3. Requires a patch test. 4. Small colorless molecules that become color when mixed with ammonia and hydrogen peroxide penetrate into the cortex and chemically change the color of the hair permanently and are called an aniline derivative tint. 5. Contains ammonia, oxidative tints and peroxide. 6. Paraphenediamine and paratoluenediamine are two types of dye intermediated found in permanent hair colors 7. Contains aniline derivatives. 8. Can not be shampooed out. 9. Color can lift natural pigment or deposit artificial pigment in one process. 10. Can not lift artificial pigment from the hair, a color remover must be used prior to coloring. 11. The stronger the peroxide the more the lift. i. 20 volume = 6% hydrogen peroxide ii. 30 volume = 9% hydrogen peroxide iii. 40 volume = 12% hydrogen peroxide 12. Follow manufacturer s directions. 13. Use a protective cream, color can stain client s skin. 14. Liquid colors usually use a bottle for application. 15. Gels and creams use a bowl and brush for application. 16. Color remover or dye solvent can be used to remove unwanted artificial pigment from the hair. 17. Permanent colors can add tone or darken the existing hair or lighten and deposit color in a single process. 18. If you are not able to achieve the desired amount of lift using a single-process color, pre-lightening may be required. 19. Permanent colors can be purchased in: Liquid contain fewer conditioning agents and ammonium content. Because of the consistency they can penetrate into the cortex much quicker.

12 Creams are applied with a bowl and brush and usually contain conditioners and thickening agents. Gels are more penetrating than creams but have less conditioning agents. They have the same penetrating ability as liquids but more conditioning agents. Toners Toners are light pastel colors used to tone highlighted hair. When the bleach has not lifted the hair light enough it has to be toned down so it is not gold in color but more natural. Toners are sometimes mixed with peroxides (developers). Use the color wheel to determine the shade to use as a complementary color. Example if the hair is to gold or brassy opposite on the color wheel is violet. Find a violet based color on your chart at the same level as the hair and apply. A patch test is required if you are using peroxide toners. It is a good idea to do a strand test as well to get an accurate color match. FILLERS When hair becomes too porous it will not hold the color. Once it is shampooed the color fades very quickly. A filler is meant to fill the cuticle with color, protein and polymers. Fillers equalize the porosity of the hair so the base color will be more even. Fillers can be purchased from suppliers, some stylists will use pure color pigment on the hair, and others use a semi-permanent color on the hair. It is best to purchase the correct product and not to experiment. Check with your supplier for recommendations based on the product the client is using on her hair. METALLIC DYES

13 Metallic dyes contain metal salts; this creates a dull, metallic, unnatural appearance to the hair. These types of color coat the hair and should be removed prior to using an aniline derivative dye on the hair. Hair with metallic dye should not be permanently texturized. CONCENTRATES, INTENSIFIERS, DRABBER These products are added into colors to enhance, intensify or drab out color. They can neutralize unwanted tones or added to pre bleached hair for a vibrant fashion statement. COMPLEMENTARY COLORS These are the colors found opposite each other on the color wheel. When mixed together they neutralize each other creating a natural color. This is important because complementary colors are often used to neutralize brassiness or orange tones in the hair, they can also tone down unwanted green or red casts in the hair. Complementary colors are shown on the chart after the color wheel. GRAY HAIR Gray hair is caused when the melanocyte cells slow down in their production of melanin; this is common with old age. Since each hair is individual some hair changes faster and becomes white while others may stay gray. Some people turn gray around the front hairline others may begin at the top of the head. The nape area is last to turn gray. Because of the different shades of color in the hair formulation becomes more difficult. Learning the percentage of gray will help in corrective color. Gray hair can be categorized as 25%, 50%, 75% or 100% gray. When creating a formula with gray hair percentages will allow you to know when to add more color pigment in your formula.

14 CLIENT CONSULTATION 1. WASH HANDS 2. GREET CLIENT 3. FILL OUT RECORD CARD (Patch test should be given 24 hours prior to coloring.) (If uncertain do strand test.) 4. HAIR/SCALP ANALYSIS 5. DETERMINE PERCENTAGE OF GRAY 6. DETERMINE TARGET COLOR 7. DETERMINE NATURAL LEVEL AND TONE ON ENDS AND ROOTS 8. DETERMINE ARTIFICIAL COLOR 9. DETERMINE CONDITIONOF HAIR 10. CREATE FORMULA 11. MIX FORMAULA 12. DETERMINE APPLICATION PROCEDURE 13. APPLY COLOR. (When using an aniline derivative dye you must do a patch test prior to coloring the hair.)

15 PATCH TEST STEPS 1. Explain to your client that this test must be done to see if she has any sensitivity to color. 2. Determine the product for the hair color service; it should be the same product. 3. You are using on your client. 3. Most patch tests are done with a 20 volume peroxide and a lighter color. 4. Mix a small amount of product in bowl, with a cotton swab. 5. Apply to inside of elbow with a cotton swab. When a hair color is questionable in the desired result, it is a 6. Let the color dry. 7. Examine the results in 24 hours. If there is no irritation on the area, you can move forward with the service.

16 MIXING Hair coloring / Highlighting 1. Pour developer into applicator bottle or bowl. Pour the developer in bottle first if using bottle. 2. Squeeze or pour 2 oz. of color into bottle or bowl. 3. Mix until creamy, no lumps, roll bottle use color brush for bowl. 4. Apply color. Mixing On Scalp Lighteners with Bottle 1. Pour developer into the applicator bottle. 2. Add bleach according to the length of the hair and desired outcome. Follow manufacturer s mixing directions. 3. Shake gently, rolling bottle. 4. Apply bleach.

17 MIXING IN BOWL OFF-SCALP POWDER LIGHTENERS 1. Pour 2 1/2 oz. (75ml) developer in non-metallic bowl. 2. Add 4 scoops of powder lightener into bowl. 3. Mix to creamy consistency, similar to sour cream or pudding. 4. Remove all lumps. 5. Apply bleach to hair according to consultation. 6. Follow manufacturer s directions.

18 Hair and scalp analysis for hair coloring Hair/scalp analysis for hair coloring 1. Have client fill out client release form. This form explains that a student is doing the work and the work is being done for a nominal charge and salon expectations should not be expected. 2. The client s belongings are their responsibility, do not take or place jewelry or purses anywhere for clients, make them responsible. 3. Fill out record card with client; explain the purpose for each answer. 4. Description of Hair: straight, wavy, curly. When hair is curly it is much harder to apply the curly. People straighten their hair and you may be deceived when doing your analysis once you have done the shampoo. 5. Determining length, will determine quantity of product to use and the price to charge. 6. Texture being fine, medium or coarse will assist in amount of product usage. 7. Density is sparse, moderate and thick hair, numbers of hair per square inch, determines length of application, timings and product usage. Fine hair colors quicker due to the number of cuticle layers. 8. Porosity determines how quickly the color will absorb into the hair cuticle and cortex. Overly porous hair should not be colored. Do the porosity test to determine porosity. 9. Natural color level assists in determining formula. 10. Determine tone of the hair; warm or cool and also the intensity of the color. 11. Scalp condition determines if the scalp is normal, dry, oily, or sensitive. 12. Overall condition of the hair allows the stylist to examine all the properties of the hair in one glance and establish if the hair color should or should not be given.

19 13. Gray or unpigmented hair can be a challenge, determine the amount of gray hair versus colored or virgin hair to formulate accurate colors. 14. Bleached or previously bleached hair can be hidden under colored hair, when analyzing hair; ask client if bleach was used on their hair prior to coloring. 15. Previously colored hair can be very close to the client s hair color and can be deceiving. Artificial color can not lift artificial color. 16. Desired hair color requires all of the analysis to be completed before formulation can be determined. 17. Corrective treatments may be required such as conditioning treatments to prepare the hair for a color at another time. Color fillers may be suggested if hair is leached or lacking in pigment. Staining the cuticle can allow color to hold in the hair for a longer period of time. 18. During the analysis determine if the client wants a temporary, semi-permanent or permanent hair color and also what category of color was previously used. 19. Amount of product usage is determined by the density, texture and also the amount of the head to be colored. They may want only high or lo lights, partial head colored or just a retouch. 20. Record all information on the record card, include formula, timing, mixing, date, results, price and any other comment that you find may be of assistance to you for future color applications.

20 Procedures in highlighting hair Highlighting (Bleaching) Highlights are used to remove pigment from the hair or to decolorize the hair. Often used for adding highlights to various colors of hair. Hair does not have to be colored to have highlights. Adds illusion of sheen and depth. Dark hair goes through the most degree of lightening or decolourization approximately 10 levels of lift. Hair should never be lightened to white this will strip the cuticle layers of the hair and make it very porous. When lightening hair it will go through stages of lift from red to redorange, yellow-orange, gold and then pale yellow. Determining formulation prior to application of bleach will allow you to know what level to stop the bleach process. When lighteners penetrate into the cortex they cause the melanin to break into smaller pieces before removing or diffusing the color. Ingredients in lighteners are usually ammonia and peroxide to facilitate the oxidation process. Lighteners can be applied to dry hair, it is a good idea to clarify or free the hair of all sprays, gels and mousses with a good clarifying shampoo, dry the hair and then apply bleach. There are basically two steps in hair lightening. The hair is decolorized or prelightened within two levels of the desired color. And then the hair color is applied to create the final color and to tone unwanted casts or gold from the hair. On-the-scalp lighteners can be applied directly to the scalp. These bleaches are milder and can come in oil or cream form. The ph may be around 9 and can be mixed with an activator, accelerator or booster. They may also contain conditioners. Off the-scalp lighteners or bleach can be found in powder form and then mixed with peroxide become very strong. Some hairstylists will use stronger peroxide than recommended; this can cause the hair to lighten too quickly and cause severe damage to the cuticle of the hair. Timing can vary from client to client depending on the level of natural hair color and the desired color.

21 METHODS OF HIGLIGHTING (Bleaching) Hair painting (balayage or free-form) With a paint brush, paint on to the dry hair in fine lines with a thinner consistency of bleach for a soft highlight on the surface of the hair. Weaving A tail comb is used and the section is weaved to create an uneven line, foil is placed in one of the weaves and bleach applied to the foil. The foil is folded over the processing begins. Slicing This is similar to the weaving method but larger section with clean lines can be taken to place highlights in certain areas of the head. High lightening cap- The cap is used when the client wants to have small thin pieces of highlighted hair. A crochet hook and a plastic cap with pre cut hole is used for this method. The hair is pulled through the cap and then bleach is applied over the cap. This method is good for people with allergies to color since the product never touches the scalp. Toning over highlighted hair If a cool tonal value is desired a toner may be required after the bleaching process. Toners are available and can be applied on the lightened hair. Some stylists prefer to mix their own toners with a lower volume of peroxide or use a semi-permanent color instead. Toners do not contain peroxide or ammonia. This type of color provides no lift only deposit of pigment into the cuticle of the hair shaft. Highlighting shampoos - are available and they can lift up to one shade lighter. These products usually contain peroxide.

22 Infection Control INFECTION CONTROL IN HAIR COLORING 1. Protect your hands by wearing rubber gloves. 2. Protect client by following draping procedures for hair coloring. 3. Complete a thorough client consultation; complete the entire record card before formulating a color or highlight. 4. Never leave the client unattended while a chemical is on their hair. 5. Do a hair and scalp analysis. 6. Do not apply a color over a metallic or compound dye. (See test for metallic salts p. 523 salon fundamentals text) 7. Do not brush the hair prior to a hair color service. 8. Always use clean bottles, brushes, combs and towels. 9. Administer a patch test if they have never had an aniline derivative color. 10. If unsure complete a strand test. 11. Check scalp for abrasion or cuts, do not continue if there are any; or infection can occur. 12. Do not mix formula until you are ready to use it, it will lose its productivity and weaken in strength. 13. Keep product away from eyes, use an eye wash or splash lukewarm water into the eye, if any burning continues rinse client and send to a doctor. 14. Follow direction and do not overlap color when doing a retouch application this can cause a demarcation line. 15. Do not color eyebrow or eyelashes with an aniline derivative tint. 16. Complete record card and record if any allergies occurred during the service. Record formula and all timings.