WELCOME ABOARD... DISCOVERING LAKE ISEO BY BOAT. Lombardia in movimento

Transcription

1 WELCOME ABOARD... DISCOVERING LAKE ISEO BY BOAT Lombardia in movimento

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4 WELCOME ABOARD... DISCOVERING LAKE ISEO BY BOAT a publication sponsored by Navigazione Lago d Iseo S.r.l. Editor Nous s.r.l., via Esterna del Molino, Stezzano (BG) tel edizioni.nous@gmail.com Concept and texts: Giorgio Carradori Graphics and page-up: negrini+varetto Pisogne (BS) - Carpi (MO) Maps: Alex Perathoner Photography: Alex Perathoner, Fabio Cattabiani, negrini+varetto, Fotolia, Cristina Mazzucchelli, Comune di Predore, Gian Attilio Vitali, Gianluigi Bonomelli Translations: Angela Arnone, Daniela Zucca Entire publication 2015 Navigazione Lago d Iseo S.r.l. Printed in April 2015, by: Tipografia La Cittadina - Gianico (BS) All rights reserved. No part of the book may be duplicated, reproduced or transmitted in any form. ISBN Nous s.r.l. is willing to recognize any rights of which it is currently unaware.

5 PLEASE NOTE This guide is designed for tourists using our boats. It suggests itineraries that depart from the pier, and which are usually for walking, or in some cases using bicycles or public transport. The authors, publishers and Navigazione Lago d Iseo s.r.l. have taken utmost care in drafting the texts but cannot accept liability for any problems arising from use of the guide. We recommend that visitors verify which buildings are open to the public and at what times. For excursions, especially for the more demanding, it is essential that you assemble detailed information and check each route at tourist information points, ensuring you have specific maps and guidebooks.

6 WELCOME ABOARD LAKE ISEO BY BOAT WELCOME ABOARD NAVIGAZIONE LAGO D ISEO LANDSCAPE AND NATURE HISTORY AND ART NEARBY FOOD AND WINE CYCLING AND WALKING OUR SPECIAL BOAT TOURS CASTRO COSTA VOLPINO ISEO LOVERE MARONE MONTE ISOLA PARATICO PISOGNE

7 LOVERE CASTRO COSTA VOLPINO PISOGNE RIVA DI SOLTO MARONE TAVERNOLA BERGAMASCA MONTE ISOLA SALE MARASINO PREDORE SULZANO SARNICO PARATICO CLUSANE ISEO PREDORE RIVA DI SOLTO SALE MARASINO SARNICO SULZANO TAVERNOLA B.SCA

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9 Greetings to you all from the captain and crew, and from Navigazione Lago d Iseo s.r.l. We ll be taking you by boat to discover this little gem among the great lakes of Lombardy. A boat is the most exciting way to discover Sebino, as Lake Iseo was called by the ancient Romans, and as it is still often known today. As we sail, we ll ensure you experience the lake from the lake and relax as you enjoy the beautiful varied scenery of wood-covered mountains, rocky banks, charming slopes, pleasant beaches, and islands all differing from one another. As we approach the landing points you ll have the best view of villages overlooking the lake, and when you alight from the boat it s like being welcomed at their front door. With our guide we want to lead you on an exploration of all the places the boat reaches and suggest the most beautiful routes starting at each wharf. Even if you only visit this lake by boat, you can enjoy coastal towns and their surroundings, go to swimming and sailing resorts, taste typical dishes, do some shopping, and stay in comfortable hotels, B&Bs, or campsites. If you prefer an active holiday, there are lovely walks or bike rides, and also long excursions on nearby slopes and mountains, staying in farmhouses or in mountain chalets. We hope that this guide will be handy, whether you re spending just a day or weekend here, but hopefully you will keep it with you for a longer holiday on our lake. 7

10 NAVIGAZIONE LAGO D ISEO Navigazione Lago d Iseo is Lake Iseo s scheduled and tourist transport service. Since it opened, the company has taken a dual approach. Firstly, ensuring a scheduled ferry for the towns of Sebino and Monte Isola; secondly promoting the use of boats as a different way of exploring the lake and its villages. Passengers using ferry services will enjoy the beautiful landscapes of mountain peaks, calm waters, small islands, Monte Isola and the small towns set on the shores from south to north. Visitors using the tourist services can choose from the different Tour nel Blu (Tour in the Blue) cruises and tours on the lake, offered from March to September, lasting from a few hours to an entire day. The lake is a great way to discover pristine nooks of nature and the artistic beauty of the area whose many treasures are still partly unknown. 8

11 Navigazione Lago d Iseo also offers a flexible passenger boat rental service for hosting various types of events: business meetings, anniversaries, celebrations, weddings, but also corporate events and press conferences. The company has a fleet of 14 vessels of different sizes, with a minimum capacity of 70 people and a maximum of 400. The two largest craft include a coffee bar, restaurant and music systems for entertainment, with 35 crew and ground staff, increased to 45 during high season. Navigazione Lago d Iseo S.r.l. 9

12 Natura, panorama, atmosfera. Lasciatevi trasportare. Nature, views and atmosphere will carry you away. 10

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14 LANDSCAPE AND NATURE Lake Sebino was created in ancient times, dug out by the action of a large alpine glacier. It is Italy s sixth largest lake in surface area but is unique in being the setting for the largest and highest lake island in Europe: Monte Isola, with two smaller islands, Loreto and San Paolo, nearby. As you sail on the lake your eye is drawn to a perfect combination of alpine and Mediterranean environments. The alpine world can be seen in the mountain range, snowcapped in winter, the copious waters of the River Oglio that flow into the lake, the spring rains that make the slopes 12

15 so green, the cool breeze that tempers summer heat. The mild climate, bright sunlight, and flora that includes the iconic olive, on the other hand, has a very southern feel. From the boat you ll appreciate the meeting of land and water, with dramatic high cliffs falling sheer to the depths of the lake and gentle hills sloping down to the shoreline, or the wetlands, created by the overlapping of earth and water, where nature reigns supreme. The lake has many natural attractions and we can only show some on this page, so check the other sections, dedicated to individual locations. Clearly visible from the boat is the steep stretch of coast between Riva di Solto and Castro, where the most fascinating point is the Orrido di Zorzino, a gorge known locally as the Bögn. The gorge called Orrido di Zorzino or Bögn 13

16 LANDSCAPE AND NATURE Here a small, solitary bay is dominated by a tall rock face overlooking the lake, formed by many vertical layers of limestone. A little further on, you ll meet another gorge, called the Bögn di Castro, where a rock curtain looms over the narrow coastal road. Water lilies Cruising between Iseo and Clusane you ll come across the Riserva Naturale delle Torbiere del Sebino (Peat Bog Nature Reserve) well worth the interesting hike to reach it. There are about 360 hectares consisting of a kind of peat lagoon that borders on the lake, numerous pools, meadows and farmlands. The bogs began to form about 10,000 years ago, at the end of the last Ice Age, and from the mid-1800s were exploited for about a century to extract peat that was used as fuel. 14 Tench

17 The Torbiere peat bog trail This small natural paradise offers visitors various routes. Numerous species of birds (bittern, little bittern, purple heron, black-crowned night heron, black kite, marsh harrier, little crake, spotted crake, kingfisher, red-backed shrike) nest here and the waters are home to many varieties of fish, including pike, catfish, eel, carp, redfin perch, and tench. The vegetation is lush and abounds with reeds, bulrushes, poplars and alders, and water lilies cover part of the pools. Coot Heron 15

18 LANDSCAPE AND NATURE The Riserva Regionale delle Piramidi di Erosione di Zone (Zone Erosion Pyramids Regional Reserve) is an entirely unique natural monument, located at metres in altitude, along the road that connects Marone to the mountain district of Zone and its plateau. The erosive action of water on the moraine soils, caused by the melting of an ancient glacier, combined with the protection offered by the large rocks set like hats on top of the columns of rock and soil, has resulted in pyramids up to 30 metres in height. A circuit allows visitors to approach them closer. Zone Pyramids 16

19 Monte Isola Last but not least, there is perhaps the most significant beauty spot: Monte Isola. The island stands at the centre of the lake and is home to several small, ancient rural and fishing hamlets, with plentiful olive trees in the south and wooded areas to the north. The Madonna della Ceriola sanctuary, Monte Isola 17

20 HISTORY AND ART Since ancient times this has been a place of human settlement and the thousands of years of work spent transforming the area has resulted in terraced hill slopes, pastures, olive groves and vineyards, creating a successful fusion between nature and humanity. Prehistoric pile-dwellings can be seen in Paratico and Sarnico, while at Marone and Predore the ancient Romans built settlements and even villas in the more agreeable places. The Middle Ages were a restless time for Lake Sebino, with barbarian invasions, wars and frequent family feuds. In the mid-1400s, however, it was acquired by the Republic of Venice and this guaranteed a long period of peace, almost to the 1800s. After a few decades, Sebino became part of the new Italy, unified after many centuries. Frequent testimonies of the past are dotted around: towns, castles and towers, churches and monasteries, mansions and villas, artworks. Rocca Martinengo, the fortress on Monte Isola 18

21 Monastery of San Pietro in Lamosa, Provaglio d Iseo Many lake towns have a typical ancient centre, perfect for pleasant strolls around the lanes. The best known are the larger old towns of Iseo, Lovere and Sarnico; smaller, but no less fascinating, are the centres of Riva di Solto, Sale Marasino, Tavernola, and Predore, while Sulzano s ancient Via Cadorna is a must-see street. Rocca Martinengo is a fortress set solitary on a promontory on the south side of Monte Isola, dominating the skyline. The Oldofredi Castle, with its massive corner towers, stands guard over the town of Iseo. Medieval towers loom in Pisogne, Lovere, Paratico, Predore, Riva di Solto and Tavernola. On the outskirts of the Torbiere del Sebino nature reserve a mystical atmosphere cloaks the charming, secluded Cluniac monastery of San Pietro in Lamosa. Standing at the top of Monte Isola, in one of the loveliest lookout spots on the lake, halfway between the sky and the earth, the sanctuary of Madonna della Ceriola (see p. 17) is well worth the long haul up the slope. 19

22 HISTORY AND ART Sant Andrea parish church is a significant example of medieval architecture (see p. 47) in Iseo, its façade featuring a tall bell tower and a Gothic sarcophagus. In Lovere there is a 15th-century basilica, that of Santa Maria in Valvendra, exceptional for its architectural value but also for its wonderful treasure trove of frescoes and a 16th-century organ with precious painted panels. In Pisogne, the Madonna della Neve shrine is famous for the frescoes by Romanino, the great 16th-century Brescia painter whose work broke away from Renaissance idealism with its folk-realistic style. The large parish church of Sale Marasino (see p. 76) is typically Baroque, with its majestic double staircase offering a welcome to those arriving from the lake. 20 Romanino fresco, Pisogne

23 Accademia Tadini, Lovere Among the noble mansions the most noteworthy is Lovere s 19th-century neoclassical Accademia Tadini, a cultural institution with a museum of important paintings and precious collections of works of applied art. From the end of the 1800s to the early 1900s, Sarnico enjoyed the flourishing of Art Nouveau or Liberty style. It was here that its most important Italian champion, architect Giuseppe Sommaruga, left many buildings, among which three splendid villas. Villa Faccanoni, Sarnico 21

24 NEARBY Franciacorta To the south of Lake Iseo is Franciacorta, a district made up of 19 municipalities in the province of Brescia, as well as the city of Brescia itself, for a total area of 20,000 hectares. Its cultural, historical and natural legacy is a mosaic of stunning verdant settings and long, gentle slopes. Here we find ancient villages, fine churches, abbeys and monasteries, stately homes, castles and towers. The famous Franciacorta sparkling wine comes from the vineyards on the moraine hills that line the lakeshore. The name Franciacorta refers not only to the wine but also to the vinification method used, known as metodo classico or even metodo Franciacorta, named to call attention to the uniqueness of this wine, whose production protocol is the strictest in the world for this type of wine. Franciacorta vineyard 18 22

25 Franciacorta winery Mount Adamello Valcamonica The valley is 90 km in length and leads from the northern end of the lake to the foot of the Alps, created by the same glacier action that formed Sebino. Valcamonica is a place to visit all year round: for art and history lovers there are castles, churches, mansions, and archaeological sites. Breno castle in Valcamonica 19 23

26 NEARBY Naquane rock carvings, Capo di Ponte The most significant are 100,000 and more rock carvings produced by the prehistoric Camuno civilization, mainly in the first millennium BCE, and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The gastronomy offers cheeses and cured meats, as well as many typical dishes. Those who love active holidays will be spoiled for choice for hiking or mountain biking, enjoying nature in the great Adamello Park, and some skiing in the vast Adamello Ski district. Last but not least, if you want to pamper yourself with some wellness treatments, be sure to check out the spas at Boario and Angolo. Terme di Boario spa 18 24

27 Valle del Freddo The Riserva Naturale della Valle del Freddo (Valle del Freddo Nature Reserve) is an area of great natural interest located along the main road leading to Lake Endine from Lovere. The valley s name means cold in Italian, and derives from the unique microclimate phenomenon produced here by the currents of cool air (2-4 C) discharged through a few holes of cold ; this fosters development at low altitude of a large number of plant species typical of the subalpine-alpine belt, including edelweiss. Lake Endine Easily accessible from Lovere and Riva di Solto, enclosed by a narrow valley, the lake has retained much of the intact natural environment. Some stretches of the banks border on thick reed beds, which is a mating habitat for many fish species and a haven for birdlife. In other sections you ll find small beaches, a place where you can catch some rest and recreation in summer

28 FOOD AND WINE Sebino, Franciacorta and Valcamonica boast a culinary tradition of the highest calibre, a special fusion generated by a territory varied both in terms of morphology and climate, but also by traditions handed down over the generations. If you venture into one of the many restaurants, osterias and farmhouses you ll find on your travels, you can sample any number of delicious dishes typical of the lake, the mountains and the hills of Franciacorta. Lake Iseo vaunts a number of emblematic products that are very popular in modern gastronomy, like fish, olive oil obtained from the groves on the hills, cheeses from mountain areas, and the famous wines of the hinterland. Apart from the eponymous Franciacorta wine (see p. 22), let s not forget Curtefranca whites and reds. From the Bergamo west shore, try Valcalepio white, red or moscato passito, and also Terre del Colleoni wines of various types. Lake fish specialities include sardines dried and preserved in olive oil and salt, a typical Monte Isola dish, or baked tench stuffed with polenta, a Clusane speciality, and also char, filleted perch, and freshwater whitefish Casoncelli pasta Rosa Camuna cheese

29 Breaded perch Production of cured meats in the Sebino district is limited but revolves mainly around traditional charcuterie like salami, above all the tasty Monte Isola version. Cheeses certainly worth trying are the Silter, typical of mountain areas; Casolet, made in a triangular form; Formaggella, wheels of hot-curd cheese; Rosa Camuna and Stracchino Bronzone, the latter a soft-paste cheese. And for a truly unforgettable experience, Navigazione Lago d Iseo offers year-round food and wine cruises to enhance the pleasure of a lake cruise with local cuisine. Dinner on board 19 27

30 If you like to be on the move when you re on holiday, here you can choose from several pleasant itineraries along the coast and nearby slopes. We re including just a few suggestions here, so check the rest of the guide for more information. The Sentiero Natura del Sebino is a nature trail comprising a circuit of 17 km to be covered on foot. You can set off at Riva di Solto and follow mule tracks and footpaths through chestnut woods and deciduous forests, meeting terraced vineyards and olive groves as you go, not to mention some breath-taking views of the lake. Lovere-Bossico-Ceratello-Lovere is another circular route of 17 km, but much more challenging and suitable for mountain bikes. The trail is mostly stony and you will need to be in good shape for some of the slopes, with gradients up to 30%. Scenically it is worthwhile for some unparalleled views of the lake, Valcamonica and, looking south, the hills of Franciacorta. Nature lovers and mountain bikers will find the dedicated Strada Verde, a 55-km circuit that connects Tavernola Bergamasca, Vigolo, San Fermo, Adrara San Rocco, Sarnico and Predore, worth exploring for the combination CYCLING AND WALKING

31 Via Valeriana of lake and mountain landscapes, and stunning views. The eastern shore of Sebino is crossed by the ancient Via Valeriana, and seeks to retrace the ancient Roman-medieval route. The journey starts from Pisogne and covers higher slopes, reaching 930 metres above sea level, then descending and ending in Pilzone, a district of Iseo, after km. You can also try it by mountain bike, but you should be experienced. The route is installed with numerous information panels and is very scenic and varied, crossing woods and olive groves, passing by churches, farmhouses, medieval villages, and even skirting the Piramidi di Zone regional park

32 CYCLING AND WALKING Vello-Toline trail An easy flat route unfolds along the old decommissioned road which is now a cycle and pedestrian path connecting Vello (district of Marone) to Toline (district of Pisogne). The short and fascinating 5 km pass sheer above the lake in old tunnels dug into the rock and between the inlets created by the steep faces of Mount Corno dei Trentapassi, offering broad views of the areas of the lake and numerous alpine peaks and foothills. Iseo is just a few kilometres from the Riserva Naturale delle Torbiere (described earlier), which you can reach on foot or by bicycle. After visiting the monastery of San Pietro in Lamosa, why not continue on foot into the marshes, where we recommend a circuit of 4 km. Monte Isola is the ideal place for a visit on foot or by bicycle. Here you can forget the traffic and take in the entire 9 km of its circumference admiring the villages, olive groves, woods and the ample landscape around you. Other, more challenging routes are available if you want to try your hand at roads and trails up the beautiful slopes, as far as the peak, with the shrine of the Madonna della Ceriola (described earlier)

33 The Paratico-Palazzolo cycle path is a simple 20-km trail that follows the Oglio river valley and in some points skirts the banks. You can start at the southern part of the lake, arriving at the town of Capriolo, and finish at Palazzolo sull Oglio, enjoying beautiful views of the river, the countryside and the surrounding hills. Another cycle path starts in Paratico, crosses Franciacorta, and reaches the outskirts of Brescia. For the fitter among you, why not try the lakeside itinerary, alternating normal roads and stretches of cycle path, for a total of about 65 km. To make the tour less demanding, more varied and safer, you can use existing cycle paths and the boat service in other sections, taking your bike with you. Finally, experienced hikers can dedicate a day to reaching the peaks around Sebino, going up the mountain paths from Pisogne to Corno dei Trentapassi (1,248 metres asl), from Marone to Mount Guglielmo (1,948 metres asl), and from Sarnico to Mount Bronzone (1,334 metres asl). Corno dei Trentapassi 19 31

34 OUR SPECIAL BOAT TOURS When you were welcomed aboard, we invited you to experience the lake from the lake and every tourist will certainly be able to arrange their preferred route by checking the boat timetables. Apart from this, however, Navigazione Lago d Iseo s.r.l. understands the tastes and needs of its customers, so it arranges special themed cruises called Tour nel Blu, to bring other experiences and emotions. The short Tour delle Tre Isole (Tour of the Three Islands), also suitable for small children, requires just a few hours and has no stops; it shows Monte Isola in all its glory and reveals the hint of mystery of the small private islands of Loreto and San Paolo. Island of Loreto 18 32

35 Monte Isola - Peschiera Maraglio With the Sebino Cruises you can spend an entire day enjoying the beauty of the lake. They neatly combine relaxing moments while on the water with guided tours of the historic centres, and leave time to browse in open-air markets and have lunch in a typical restaurant. Island of San Paolo 19 33

36 OUR SPECIAL BOAT TOURS If these trips leave happy memories of landscapes and places visited in the light of day, our Night Cruises reveal the more romantic side of the Sebino. Setting sail in the golden sunset and seeing the water light up with the reflected villages, wandering into the night across the water, is an unforgettable experience. Couples who would like a special evening and groups of friends looking for fun together will enjoy our dinners on board, DJ sets and other entertainment. If you are a connoisseur of gastronomy, you will enjoy our Evening Dining Cruises dedicated to the delights of the table, featuring the best of local wine and food

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38 CASTRO A gentle breeze, which the locals call the Ora, will greet you in summer as you enter the small, medieval town square for your stroll. In the lanes of the old town, all leading to the lake, you breathe in the scent of ancient times, the bustling atmosphere of a bygone era. Along Via Matteotti, you ll find the old parish church of San Giacomo, with a beautiful 18th-century portal by the Fantoni school. Continue along the street, passing under the characteristic covered passageways, and you ll see the modern architecture of the new church of San Giacomo Maggiore. Retracing your steps, you can now explore Via Papa Giovanni XXIII, looking out for the small Natività church 36

39 5 VIA MATTEOTTI VIALE ROMA VIA ZUBANI VIA ROCCA TORRENTE TINAZZO 2 VIA PAPA GIOVANNI 3 VIA 4 NOVEMBRE PIAZZA PORTO VIA GRE' Lakeside terrace Small Natività church Casa Tedoldi 4 5 Old church of San Giacomo New church of San Giacomo 6 7 Rocca (fort) Small church of San Lorenzo of the 13th century, with a beautiful 18th-century marble altar and 16th-century frescoes. As you leave the church, you may notice a lovely view of the lake, so follow Via Rocca to the bridge where the Tinazzo brook tumbles noisily into Sebino. Here there is a tree-lined lakeside terrace and if you are fortunate enough to have time to linger, you will notice the verses of the poet Montanari, etched in a bronze book. From this terrace you can stroll back to the dock along the lakefront, passing in front of Casa Tedoldi, a 17th-century building. 37

40 CASTRO BRIEF HISTORY Castro was founded in the Dark Ages as a fortified port in the first half of the 11th century. With intense trade and strong agriculture, Castro was very prestigious at that time, and the major iron and steel plant now operating in the municipality traces its origins back to the ancient smithies of the 1200s. EXCURSIONS AND LEISURE Starting from Via Grè and following the shoreline, you soon reach the foot of the tall cliffs with a fearsome overhang into the lake at the Orrido del Bögn di Castro ravine. From the shore you can also take the Sentiero dello Stross path to a scenic area and small playground, with breathtaking views of the lake and of the ravine at your feet; from here you can climb to the high part of town (the Rocca, a fort now in ruins) or return to the lake shore along Via Rocca. Starting from the Rocca and proceeding along Via Coletto, you ll reach the small church of San Lorenzo, with a beautiful Romanesque apse; alternatively you can go to the old Poltragno hydraulic hammer, or explore the Cerrete path as far as the Balot of Grè, an impressive stone set in a small glade, with a breathtaking view over the lake. An easy trail leads to the Gola del Tinazzo park, where a deep gully has been dug out by the water and is hugged by two massive faces, 40 metres in height; the park is also the habitat for some interesting botanical species. 38 Orrido di Castro gorge

41 The lake here is flat and windblown in equal measure... more sublime still for its blank surface, inscribed only with the thoughts of those who look on at any given moment. (R. Montanari) INFO CASTRO Tourist Infopoint - IAT ALTO SEBINO Piazza 13 Martiri, Lovere (BG) Tel Fax info@iataltosebino.it TOWN HALL Via Matteotti, Castro (BG) Tel Fax WEB

42 COSTA VOLPINO From Lovere pier it s easy to reach the district of Corti (home to the town hall for this municipality of seven districts). Via Nazionale is a busy, modern road, lined with numerous buildings and arcades with businesses and shops. Turning into Via Baiguini you ll soon come to the large birdlife park along the River Oglio. This peaceful oasis is ideal for taking a little exercise but is also a haven for various species of birds, including herons, little egrets and grebes. The upper part of Corti, the medieval Volpino quarter, and the parish church of Santo Stefano are all worth visiting. The latter has an interesting altar and an altarpiece from the late 1500s. To reach the mountain districts of Branico, Qualino, Flaccanico, and Ceratello it s best to use the bus service. Navigazione Lago d Iseo docks 40

43 4 VOLPINO PIANO TORRENTE SUPINE CORTI VIA BAIGUINI 5 FIUME OGLIO CERATELLO 1 FLACCANICO QUALINO 2 3 BRANICO Parish church of San Giorgio Parish church of Sant Ambrogio 3 Parish church of San Bartolomeo 6 Navigazione Lago d Iseo registered offices and docks Along the many switchbacks on the journey, the views of Sebino and Valcamonica gradually become bigger and bigger. You ll see the mountain slopes terraced with stone walls, houses with barns and woodpiles ready for the cold season, and you ll discover beautiful church architecture. The parish church of San Bartolomeo, in Branico, still has interesting 1400s frescoes; the parish church of Sant Ambrogio, in Qualino, has a beautiful Baroque portal in black marble; the parish church of San Giorgio, in Ceratello, boasts a splendid panoramic position. 4 5 Parish church of San Stefano Birdlife park 41

44 COSTA VOLPINO BRIEF HISTORY In the past the Costa Volpino played an important strategic role, able to control communications between Sebino and Valcamonica. Defensive fortifications were built in the tenth century, followed by several castles, long contended by Bergamo and Brescia, but later events led to their destruction. In the 17th century corn was grown in Italy for the first time, the seeds smuggled here from the Indies by an adventurous local military leader called Gaioncelli. Traditional quarrying of a particular chalk (called volpinite) is now flanked by important industrial and commercial plants in the Piano district. EXCURSIONS AND LEISURE From Ceratello you will easily reach an agritourism facility or the ai ciar district, where you ll find a trattoria, stables, a fishing pool, and a playground. Also from Ceratello you can take various excursions along footpaths and bridleways. The least demanding leads to the town of Bossico; the most challenging to the Rifugio Magnolini at 1,612 metres above sea level, where you can also stay overnight. From this sunny plateau you will love the broad panorama of the Alpine foothills and Lake Iseo. Parish church of San Giorgio, Ceratello 42

45 Birdlife park at the mouth of the River Oglio INFO COSTA VOLPINO Tourist Infopoint - IAT ALTO SEBINO Piazza 13 Martiri, Lovere (BG) Tel Fax info@iataltosebino.it TOWN HALL Piazza Caduti di Nassirya, Costa Volpino (BG) Tel Fax WEB

46 ISEO The pier is right beside a square, lined with pleasant open-air coffee bars and ice cream parlours. If you bear right at the jetty, onto the coastal promenade, you ll come to the Vecchia Filanda, an old spinnery now converted with a courtyard of cafeterias and shops of various kinds. The charming feel is reminiscent of Venice. On the way back you can take Via Campo, which offers beautiful views of the lake. Lungolago Marconi is the lakeside promenade, also lined with shops, coffee bars and ice cream parlours, and it also has a splendid view. The old town is a surprise! One side comprises the Oldofredi Castle (12th century), the other Sant Andrea parish church, which features a large Romanesque belfry (12th century) and a Gothic sarcophagus on the façade; lastly there is the old spinnery. You can lose yourself in quiet, narrow lanes, then emerge onto the large, elegant and busy arcaded squares that make up the centre of Iseo. In a small square there is still a public wash house. In the lanes you ll often see arches supporting dwellings, 44