Trick or Treat! Copyright 2012, Ric Hajovsky
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1 Trick or Treat! Copyright 2012, Ric Hajovsky Next week is Halloween in the states, a holiday celebrated more and more here in Mexico, but the real holiday coming up is on November 2, when all the souls come back to earth for All Saints Day, Day of the Dead, Dia de los Muertos, or Dia de los Difuntos. Dead, sainted, or difunto, it s all the same; you re dead and the living come to your grave to celebrate your life. To this end, the bakeries around town are going into overdrive, turning out pan de los muertos (dead-man s bread), calaveritas (decorated, sugar skulls), and a specialty down here in the Yucatan Peninsula, mucbipollo. Mucbipollo (mook-bee-poyo) is a compound word made up of the Mayan word for buried and the Spanish word for chicken. It means, obviously, buried chicken. It is the traditional breakfast during this holiday of the dead. Mucbipollo is a large, round, tamal stuffed with chicken, pork, hard-boiled egg, garlic, onion, tomato sauce, epazote, achiote, and other Yucatecan spices, wrapped in banana leaves and baked underground. This morning we were having coffee with Fito Gracia at a sidewalk café next door to his dad s old house (where I had breakfast everyday with him and his brothers for many years) when the subject of mucbipollo came up. Have you eaten any this season? I asked. No. Ramon said he just bought one.. Ramon! Fito called out to the café s owner. Do you have any mucbipollo left? Yeah. Let me send home for a slice. Snapping his fingers, Ramon sent one of his waiters around the corner to his own home. The waiter returned a few minutes later with three plates, each with its own pie-shaped slice of the buried-chicken treat. We all dug in and enjoyed it immensely. After coffee and mucbipollo, we wandered over to the little bakery, La Cozumeleña, to see if they had any dead man s bread. Sure they did. This little bakery has been in the same place for around forty years. This kind of bread loaf is made only this time of year. Pan de Muerto; Dead-man s bread.
2 Even the MEGA store s bakery was turning out Day of the Dead items, like this life-size bakedbread skeleton surrounded by his altar made with La Abuelita, or little grandmother chocolate and candles. Pan de Muerto also comes boxed to go, but the label is a little disturbing!
3 One of the crypts at the Cozumel Campo Santo. Note the Pan de Muerto just under the little angel and to the left of the tin can. Before I was settled in to Cozumel and was still living a bachelor s life (I had not yet been adopted into the Gracia family and it was still several years before Marie-France and I were to meet), I used to stop by this bakery every morning. I d buy a hot bread roll, then walk down the street to La Retranca grocery store for a soda and a big slice of cheese from a huge wheel they had in the store. Walking another two blocks west, I would sit on the concrete bench at the water s edge and have my breakfast of bread, cheese and soda while I watched the town come alive for the day. Life in Cozumel was very, very laid back in those days. There was very few of big stores and business they have now. For example: There was only one movie theatre, Cine Joaquin. It was really just a large, empty warehouse with a tin roof and a white wall at one end, a bunch of folding chairs scattered around, and some very slow moving ceiling fans. Hot as blazes in the summer time. They would sell little fist-sized paper bags of popcorn from a big, galvanized wash-tub by the front door. I remember watching Jane Fonda in Barbarella there. It hadn t been dubbed into Spanish and all the little Mayan folk watching her on-screen antics had to make up the storyline for themselves. I d have loved to be inside their heads back then.
4 The little grocery/convenience store down the street from our house has its very own chicken that wanders in and out as she pleases. For lunch I had grilled conch and lion-fish ceviche. Lion fish is a new, invasive species in Cozumel. It was not found in the Atlantic until a decade or so ago when a hurricane hit Florida and a fancy restaurant s aquarium full of the beautiful, but poisonous, creatures were set free by the storm s damage. NOAA now has a website that tracks the slow spread of this voracious predator. It arrived in Cozumel s waters a few years ago and liked what it saw. They are now everywhere. The local folk have been trying to fight the lion-fish s spread by killing them when they see one, having contests for the most caught in a day, and having cooking contests to try to get the taste to catch on so they may eventually be over-fished. But, judging by the lessthan-tasty ceviche today, it looks like the lion-fish is here to stay. After lunch we went to the market to look for our sugar skulls.
5 We looked for sugar skulls that had our names on them. but ended up needing to label our own.
6 The market stand had a label from the Mexican Consumer Protection Agency that proved their skulls were not over-priced. PROFECA; always on your side!
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