Milady s Standard Cosmetology FACIAL MAKEUP. Copyright 2004 by Delmar Learning, a division of Thomson Learning,Inc.

Transcription

1 Milady s Standard Cosmetology FACIAL MAKEUP Copyright 04 by Delmar Learning, a division of Thomson Learning,Inc.

2 Makeup Artistry Cosmetic Sales Rep Sell cosmetic products to consumers and corporations Newspaper/Magazine Beauty Columnist Write articles about cosmetics International Artistic Team Developing New Seasonal Colors for Cosmetic Companies Television Station/Production Company Makeup Artist Help convey the personality of the character Makeup artists may be asked to create different appearances for a character, such as an injury or age difference Makeup artists often analyze characters, do research, and confer with the director and the actors to create just the right look for a specific character. Makeup artists may have to work with prosthetics to achieve a particular look.

3 FOUNDATIONS Even skin tone Conceal minor imperfections Protect skin from climate and dirt Come in cream form liquid form powder form Cream-to-powder form Figure -3

4 USING FOUNDATION Skin tone determines the selection of foundation color. Warm tones are generally yellow, orange, or red-orange. Cool tones are generally blue, blue-green (olive), or bluered (pink). Neutral skin has equal amounts of warm and cool tones. Match foundation as closely as possible to natural skin tone. Color should disappear on the skin.

5 CONCEALERS Use concealers to cover blemishes and discolorations. They are available in pots, pencils, wands, and tubes or sticks. Remove concealers from container with a spatula and apply with a concealer brush or sponge. Match color to skin as closely as possible.

6 FACE POWDERS Add a matte or dull finish Conceal blemishes and discolorations Tone down excessive color and shine Come in variety of tints, weights Light to medium weight good for dry to normal skin Figure -4 Heavy weight good for oily skin

7 CHEEK COLOR Also called blush or rouge Creates more attractive facial contour Comes in liquid format cream or gel format Figure -5 dry (pressed) format loose powder format

8 RULES FOR APPLICATION OF CHEEK COLOR Apply cheek color where natural color would normally appear on cheeks. Keep color above the horizontal line at the tip of the nose. Do not extend color above the outer corner of the eye. Do not apply color in a bright, round circle. Blend color so that it fades softly into the foundation.

9 LIP COLOR Also called lipstick or gloss Comes in variety of colors with optional sunscreen and moisturizers Lip liner used to outline the lips. Figure -6 coordinate liner with lip color. sharpen liners with every use.

10 EYE SHADOW Applied on eyelids Comes in variety of colors and finishes Forms Stick Cream Pressed Dry powder Figure -7

11 USING EYE SHADOW It makes the eyes appear bright and expressive. Darker color makes the natural color of the iris appear lighter; just the opposite with lighter shadow. Color should enhance the client s eyes. Highlight color is lighter than skin tone. Use on a specific area such as the brow bone. Base color is usually a medium tone. Use to even skin tone around eyes. Apply all over the lid before other colors. Contour color is a darker tone. Apply to minimize a certain area, to create contour, or to define the eyelash line.

12 EYELINER Outlines the eye Available in pencil, liquid, pressed, or felt tip pen form Makes the eyes appear larger and lashes fuller Application Figure -8 Be cautious when applying. Use steady hand. Sharpen the liner and sanitize sharpener before each use.

13 CAUTION According to the American Medical Association, eye pencils should not be used to color the inner rim of the eyes. The danger is infection of the tear duct causing tearing, blurring of vision, and permanent pigmentation of the mucous membrane lining the inside of the eye.

14 EYEBROW COLOR Eyebrow pencils or shadows are used to add color and shape to the eyebrows. They can darken the eyebrow, fill in sparse areas, or correct misshapen brows.

15 MASCARA Used to darken, define, and thicken eyelashes Makes lashes appear thicker and longer Application Lashes should be darker than the eyebrows. Dispose of wand. Figure -9 Never double-dip.

16 MAKEUP BRUSHES Come in a variety of shapes and sizes Are made of synthetic or animal hair Have wooden or metal handles Clean up with commercial sanitizer or mild shampoo for cleaning Figure -10

17 MAKEUP COLOR THEORY PRIMARY COLORS Red Yellow Blue Figure -11

18 SECONDARY COLORS Mix equal parts of two primary colors to obtain: Orange (yellow + red) Violet (red + blue) Figure -12 Green (yellow + blue)

19 TERTIARY COLORS Mix equal parts of a secondary color and its neighboring primary color: Yellow-Orange Yellow-Green Blue-Green Blue-Violet Red-Violet Red-Orange Figure -13

20 COMPLEMENTARY COLORS Primary and secondary colors directly opposite each other on the color wheel are complementary. Figure -14 When mixed, they cancel each other out to create a neutral brown or gray color.

21 WARM AND COOL COLORS Warm colors range from yellow and gold through oranges, red-oranges, most reds, and some yellow-greens. Cool colors are dominated by the blues, greens, violets, and bluereds. Figure -15

22 SELECTING MAKEUP COLOR Consider skin, eye, and hair color. Decide if the skin is light, medium, or dark. Light skin color Use light colors for a natural look and dark colors for a dramatic look. Medium skin color Medium tones will create more of a understated look. Light or dark tones will provide more contrast and appear bolder. Dark skin color Dark colors will be subtle; medium or light will be striking and vivid.

23 COLOR FOR EYES Neutrals are always the safest choice Complementary colors are determined thus: Blue eyes Orange: Choices include gold, warm orange-browns like peach and copper, red-browns like mauve and plum, and neutrals like taupe or camel. Green eyes Red: Choices include brown-based reds, red-orange, red-violet, and violet; coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauve, and purples. Brown eyes neutral and can wear any contrasting colors such as greens, blues, grays, and silvers.

24 CHEEK AND LIP COLOR Coordinate in the same color family as the eye makeup. HAIR COLOR and EYE COLOR Hair color needs to be taken into account when determining eye makeup color.

25 COLOR SELETION STEPS Determine skin level: light, medium, or dark. Determine eye color: blue, green, brown, etc. Determine skin undertone: warm, cool, or neutral. Determine complementary colors. Determine hair color: warm or cool. Choose eye makeup colors based on complementary colors. Coordinate cheek and lip colors within same color family: warm, cool, or neutral. Apply makeup.

26 CLIENT CONSULTATION Keep the area clean. Keep a portfolio of your work. Ensure good lighting for everything. Gather information and record on consultation card. Skin condition Makeup worn daily Special occasion makeup Time spent on makeup Color likes and dislikes Any makeup areas client is having trouble with Figure -17

27 SPECIAL OCCASION MAKEUP Choose striking contour eyes. Choose dramatic smoky eyes. Add darker, lighter, or shimmery color to the cheeks. Apply liner color to the lips; fill in with pencil and blot. Apply gloss to the center of the lips with a lip brush or applicator.

28 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Wash your hands before and after every application. Properly drape client. Protect client from direct skin or hair contact with chair. Keep your fingernails smooth. Use only sanitized brushes and implements. Use a shaker-type container for loose powder.

29 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Pour all lotions from bottle containers. Use clean spatula to remove creams from jars. Never apply lip color directly from container to the client s lips. Use antiseptic on tweezed areas of the eyebrow to avoid infection. Discard all disposable items. Keep workstation sanitary, neat, and well organized.

30 Makeup and the Movies may need to be adept in creating sophisticated, high-fashion looks need to rely on design, sculpting and creativity to alter an actor's looks by showing age, injury or characteristics of an alien or cartoon creature

31 Film Technology and Makeup make-up artists have had to combine their art with film-making technology Actors in silent films, for example, had heavy yellow make-up to compensate for orthochromatic film that was insensitive to the red end of the light spectrum

32 Advanced Technology and Makeup makeup techniques and computergenerated images come together to create visions Lord Voldemort's snake-like face in "Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire" (05). For that look, make-up was applied to actor Ralph Fiennes' face in the usual way, but computer wizardry flattened his face and altered his nose