Sleeve Plackets By Linda Lee

Transcription

1 Sleeve Plackets By Linda Lee

2 Sleeve Plackets A placket is an opening or slit in a garment which aids in putting the garment on or taking it off and helps cuffs and bands to fit snugly around the wrist. There are two types the shirt-sleeve placket and the continuous bound placket. In this tutorial, you will learn step-by-step instructions for making and attaching both types of plackets. Shirt-sleeve Placket Continuous Bound Placket 2

3 Shirt-Sleeve Placket Pattern Click HERE to download and print out the sleeve-placket pattern as illustrated on this page. Remember to print it out at 100%. Adjust the height of the left side according to the size of the placket opening slit on your pattern. This schematic is for a right sleeve placket. Place this pattern right side up on the right side of the fabric to apply to a right sleeve. Reverse the pattern to make a left placket. 3

4 Shirt-Sleeve Placket Cut a strip of tagboard (manila file folder) about 2" wide. Mark a line ¼" from one long edge and another line 1¹ ₈" from the other long edge. Place the template on the wrong side of the placket and press the longest edge (Fold 1) of the fabric to meet the ¼" line. ¼" Use a tracing wheel and tracing paper to carefully mark the stitching and cutting lines of the placket opening on the wrong side of the fabric. 4

5 Shirt-Sleeve Placket Using the opposite edge of the template, press the placket to the wrong side along Fold 2. The 1¹ ₈" is the finished width of the exposed placket. This width can be adjusted in your pattern. 1¹ ₈" Wrong Side Right Side 5

6 Shirt-Sleeve Placket Fold one-half of the tower diagonally matching the edge to the inside edge of the turned seam allowance (Fold 3). Fold the other side of the tower diagonally to make a 90 angle. Form a symmetrical peak at the top of the tower (Fold 4). 6

7 Shirt-Sleeve Placket Place the template on the wrong side of the placket and press the edge at Fold 5 to the wrong side. 7

8 Shirt-Sleeve Placket Mark the placket opening on the wrong side of the sleeve. Place the right side of the placket on the wrong side of the sleeve. Stitch the placket opening box in a continuous stitching line, pivoting at each top corner. 8

9 Shirt-Sleeve Placket Using sharp trimming scissors, cut along the cutting lines including the diagonal lines to the upper corners. It is important to cut in the center of the stitching box and completely to the corners in order for the placket to turn cleanly and evenly along all edges. Japanese Trimming Scissors 9

10 Shirt-Sleeve Placket Press each side of the placket against the stitching lines of the box. Top stitching line Right stitching line Left stitching line 10

11 Shirt-Sleeve Placket Pull the placket through the opening to the right side of the garment. Make sure the cut triangle is on the right side of the garment and lying flat. Fold the inner placket along Fold 6, just covering the previous stitching line, and pin in place. Edgestitch along the outer fold. Edgestitching Foot Edgestitching 11

12 Shirt-Sleeve Placket Fold the placket over the other previous stitching line, pinning the tower and outer placket in place. Mark a horizontal line at the top of the placket opening. Starting at the bottom, edgestitch along the outer fold, continue around the tower, ending at the top of the opening. The stitching line at the bottom of the tower can be one line of stitching or two lines as shown. 12

13 Continuous Bound Placket Staystitch along the placket opening (marked from pattern). Cut through the center of the staystitching to the top point. Mark the placket opening for an accurate staystitching line. 13

14 Continuous Bound Placket Fold the sleeve placket in half lengthwise with the right sides together. ³ ₈" Chalk mark a line ³ ₈" from the raw edges. Pin the folded placket to the wrong side of the sleeve opening. RS If no placket pattern is included, calculate the size to cut by the length of the opening times two by at least 1³ ₄". Wider is easier to sew. 14

15 Continuous Bound Placket Stitch along one side of the opening just outside of the staystitching. Insert the needle at the point, pivot the fabric and stitch the remaining side, keeping the placket as straight as possible. Trim the seam to ¹ ₈". 15

16 Continuous Bound Placket Bring the folded edge of the placket to the right side of the sleeve just covering the previous stitching. Stitch close to the folded edge, pivoting at the top point. Edgestitching Foot 16

17 Continuous Bound Placket With right sides of the placket together, stitch diagonally across the top fold. Diagonal Stitching This keeps the placket permanently folded and in place, creating the correct overlap/underlap when adding a cuff or band. 17

18 Continuous Bound Placket On the side of the placket closest to the center of the sleeve, turn the placket to the wrong side and baste along the bottom. Center of sleeve 18

19 Sleeve Plackets By Linda Lee