COSTUME CRAFTS Layout and Sewing Instructions for Period Shirt

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1 COSTUME CRAFTS Layout and Sewing Instructions for Period Shirt 1. LAY PATTERNS OUT ON FABRIC. a. Lay out fabric flat and open, with wrong side face-up on the table. Smooth until square. b. Position pattern pieces on fabric so that they are on grain. To be on grain means that the grain line that is drawn on the pattern is parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. The selvage edge is the factory finished, non-fraying edge on a length of fabric (there are two selvage edges on any given rectangle of fabric). The patterns must be measured from the drawn grain line to the selvage edge to ensure that the two lines are parallel. c. Pin shirt pattern pieces according to diagram. The pattern pieces represent only one side of the body. Trace each pattern piece twice, once face up, once face down (as indicated below.) d. Mark seam allowances at 1. e. Before you cut, check with instructor. Selvage edge Selvage edge 2. COLLAR. With right sides together, pin collar pieces on three sides, leaving neck edge unpinned. Match all drawn seam lines front to back. Stitch, pivoting at corners as shown. Trim seam allowances to ¼ ; less at points. Press seam allowances open on board. Turn right-side out. Poke out corners. Press flat with seam allowance on edge. Set aside. 3. CUFFS. With right sides together, pin cuff pieces on three sides, leaving one long side unpinned. Stitch, pivoting at corners as shown. Trim seam allowances to ¼ ; less at points. Press seam allowances open on point board. Turn right-side out. Poke out corners perfectly. Press flat with seam allowance on edge. Set sleeves aside. Follow same procedure and diagram as for collar. 1

2 4. PIN AND STITCH CONTINUOUS LAP PLACKETS. Slash front panel open according to pattern markings. Slash sleeves open at wrist according to pattern instructions. Cut three 1-½ pieces of fabric long enough to bind slashed edges. Pin and stitch at ¼. Press over raw edge, and press under to reverse side. Top stitch lap securely. Press well. Align plackets and secure opening with machine stitch. 5. PIN AND STITCH MAJOR SEAMS: SHOULDER SEAMS, SIDE SEAMS, AND SLEEVE UNDERSEAMS. Clean-finish all seam allowances with a zig zag. Press open. 2

3 6. PERFORM GATHERING STITCHES: SLEEVE TOP AND BOTTOM EDGES, AND ON NECK EDGE. Stitch double gathering line, using widest stitch length. Leave long thread tails at beginning and end of stitching lines. On sleeve cap (top edge), stitch only between notches. Do not reverse stitch. Use HyMark in the bobbin for strength 7. PIN AND STITCH COLLAR TO NECKLINE. Pull on bobbin threads to gather up neck edge, as shown above. Concentrate fullness at center back fold and at center front opening of neck. Place no gathers over shoulder seam. With right sides together, pin collar to gathered neckline, adjusting gathers to fit length of collar. Follow instructions on diagram below to complete. 3

4 8. PIN AND STITCH CUFFS TO SLEEVES. Pull bobbin threads on sleeve at wrists, adjusting gathers uniformly around length of cuff. Follow procedure above to complete (attachment of standing collar.) 4

5 9. SET IN SLEEVES. Proceed with following instructions. 5

6 10. STITCH HEM. A) Using a large machine stitch (stitch length 4), stitch along the drawn hem line. When you come to a side seam, stitch over the seam allowances so that they are flat and pressed open. This is called THREAD MARKING. Be accurate. B) Working from the inside of the shirt, press raw edge up to meet stitched line. Fold up and press again on the stitched line to achieve double ½ fold, enclosing the raw hem edge. C) Cross-pin in place. E) Stitch (at 2.5) along the top edge, 1/8 down from the folded hem allowance. 11. HAND-STITCH SNAPS ON CUFFS TO CLOSE. 12. HAND-STITCH HOOKS AND BARS ON COLLAR TO CLOSE. **Press Period Shirt, and TRIM ALL LOOSE THREADS. **Put your name on inside neck of shirt with masking tape, and turn in to me. 6

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