Table of Contents Glossary... ii What you need to know What to do Water Chemistry Trouble Shooting

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1 Table of Contents Glossary... ii What you need to know How much water is in your pool What type of Pool Surface...3 What Equipment you have...3 What type of Sanitizer is used and how applied...3 What to do Daily...4 Frequently...4 Weekly...5 Monthly...5 As Needed Infrequently Water Chemistry First things Sanitizers ph...16 Total Alkalinity...17 Calcium Hardness...18 Trouble Shooting Algae Stains...22 Cloudy Water...23 Corrosion/Scaling/Pitting...23 Getting Help...23 Water Balance Guidelines Treatment Tips and Tables Index WARNINGS... 5,8,9,11,12,13 WW Adcock Inc i

2 Glossary Acid A chemical compound that lowers ph also known as AQUAZone ph Minus. Two acids are most normally used for pools: muriatic acid (HCL - a liquid) and sodium bisulfate (dry acid). Alkalinity A measure of the acid-neutralizing capability of the pool water: that is the water s ability to resist fluctuations of ph with the addition of other chemicals. Base A chemical compound that raises ph also known as, AQUAZone ph Plus, AQUAZone Alkalinity Increase, or AQUAZone Buffer Plus. AQUAZone ph Plus (sodium carbonate) is used to increase ph and AQUAZone Buffer Plus (sodium bicarbonate) is used to increase alkalinity. Chloramine A chlorine by-product that is formed by the oxidization of organic contaminants. It produces a strong chlorine odor that is associated with public swimming pools. It is irritating to eyes and skin and does not provide any benefit. Combined Chlorine The bad chlorine (chloramine) that has been used up by oxidizing organic contaminants in the pool water. This chlorine component cannot be measured separately. Cyanuric Acid A chemical AQUAZone Stabilizer (also known as CONDITIONER) used to reduce the degradation of chlorine in pool water by UV light (sunlight). Free Chlorine The good chlorine in pool water that is available to kill microorganisms and to oxidize contaminants. This chlorine is the component of pool water that must be measured daily. It is measured by test strips or DPD tests. Oxidizer A chemical that will burn up organic contaminants in pool water. Also known as shock it may or may not contain chlorine. ph A measure of the acid/base quality of a solution such as pool water. The logarithmic scale (each number away from 7.0 is 10 times as strong as the one before) runs from 0 on the acid side to 14 on the base side with 7.0 being neutral. Sanitizer The chemical or device that kills or inactivates the microorganisms present in the pool water. Shocking The addition of oxidizing chemical to rid the pool of contaminants. Chlorine shock will leave a high sanitizer residual that must drop before entering pool. Non-chlorine shock will not and bathers can reenter the pool within 20 minutes. Superchlorination Raising the chlorine level high enough to oxidize all contaminants (5-10ppm), to destroy all the chloramines present (10 times the combined chlorine level), to eliminate a green algae bloom (30ppm), or to deal with fecal matter discharge (at least 30ppm).. Total Chlorine This is the mathematical sum of free chlorine and combined chlorine. This is the chlorine that is measured by the OTO test kits with a reagent that turns yellow. ii

3 What you need to know Whether you take care of your pool yourself, or you have a pool service company care for your pool there are several things you should have written down: 1. How much water is in your pool This can be determined in a fairly easy manner. The easiest way is to write down the dimensions and shape of the pool and ask someone (pool service or store) to calculate the volume for you. Remember that approximations are fine as long as you know ±15% To calculate it yourself use the following guidelines: a. Rectangular pool length (ft) x width (ft) x average depth (ft) x 7.5 = W L Example: 16x32ft Rectangular pool, 3ft shallow end, 6ft deep end 16 x 32 x ((3+6)/2) x 7.5=2304x7.5 = 17,280 (Approx 17,000 ) b. Round Pool width (ft) x width (ft) x average depth (ft) x 5.9 = L W Example: 24ft Round Pool, 42in deep 24 x 24 x 3.5 x 5.9 = 11,895 (Approx 12,000 ) c. Oval (straight sides) Length (ft) x Width (ft) x average depth (ft) x 6.7 = W L Example: 12x24ft Oval pool, 42in depth 12 x 24 x 3.5 x 6.7 = 6754 (approx 7,000 ) 1

4 What you need to know d. L-Shaped - Divide pool into rectangular sections and add together L 2 W 2 L 1 W 1 Example: 14x35 with 14x14-9ft deep well in a Ell 14 x 21 x 3.5 x 7.5 = gallons shallow section 3.5ft deep 14 x 14 x ( )/2 x 7.5 = gallons transition from 3.5ft to 9ft deep 14 x 14 x 9 x 7.5 = gallons deep well = gallons (approx 30,000 ) e. Freeform Longest Dimension (ft) x Widest cross-section (ft) x 5.8 = (or ask installer or previous owner.) W L Example: 21x32ft Kidney, 3ft shallow end with 8 ft deep end 21 x 32 x (3 + 8)/2 x 5.8 = gallons (approx 20-22,000 ) 2

5 What you need to know 2. What type of Pool Surface This affects the range of recommended alkalinity level in the pool, as well as how some treatments of chlorine are to be applied. a. Plaster b. Painted c. Vinyl In-ground, Above-Ground d. Fiberglass 3. What Equipment you have Make a list of all the equipment (make and model) on the pool a. Pump size (hp), Voltage (V and phase), run cycle (how long it is on each day) b. Filter Type (DE, Sand, Cartridge), size (sq ft, or diameter) c. Chlorine Feeder, or Generator 4. What type of Sanitizer is used and how it is applied a. Chlorine Tablets b. Powdered dry chlorine added daily c. Bromine Tablets d. Chlorine Generator e. Alternative sanitizing systems (type and brand name). 3

6 What To Do (and when to do it) Daily 1. The water needs to be cleaned. This means that the amount of water in the pool should pass through the filter at least once a day. The pump needs to be on long enough each day to circulate the entire volume of water through the filter once. Most pools are designed with equipment sized to ensure that the pump and filter can circulate all the water in a 6-10 hour cycle. If you are not sure how long your equipment should run bring a list of the equipment, and the dimensions of the pool to a pool store so that it can be calculated for you. 2. Using the pool daily will help keep your pool cleaner by ensuring the water is well mixed, and any small particles are stirred up so they can be filtered out of the water. 3. Sanitizer needs to be added daily, in some manner, to keep the free chlorine level at 1-3 ppm (check chlorine level and ph daily). This does not mean you need to physically add chlorine to the water each day, but there needs to be some means by which sanitizer is getting into the pool each day (an automatic chlorinator is nice). Frequently (2 to 3 times per week) 1. Test your water to check the chlorine, ph, and alkalinity levels. 2. Check your equipment to make sure it is operating properly no leaks, pump is operating correctly, the pressure on the filter is not too high. 3. Vacuum the pool to remove leaves, bugs and dirt. 4

7 Weekly (Every 7 to 10 Days) What to Do & When to Do It 1. Shock the pool. This will oxidize any contaminants in the pool, help prevent algae growth, and get rid of small amounts of chloramines (combined chlorine). This can be done with chlorine shock (calcium hypochlorite or multi-shock) or non-chlorine (Chlorine-Free) shock. Chlorine shock should be used at night with any solar cover removed. This ensures that the chlorine level remains high for the longest amount of time and that no one is likely to swim in the pool while the chlorine is high. Nonchlorine shock may be used at any time. 2. Treat with algaecide as a preventative measure. 3. Treat with an enzyme product to clean surfaces of any organic deposits. 38,000 microorganisms are released by clearing one s nose. 5 million organisms are shed when you wash your hands. When you jump into the pool, the numbers are much greater. A person exercising moderately releases 2 pints of perspiration per hour. 100 million to 1 billion organisms enter the pool with one spit of saliva. Even a recently showered individual may introduce as much as 0.1 gram of fecal matter into the pool. People who think it is fun to pass gas in the pool are contributing more than just rude behavior. If you aren t shocked by the above, your pool needs to be. Looks can be deceiving, even though the water looks clear, shock the pool immediately after the party is over. Monthly 1. Take a sample of water to your pool store to be tested for Chlorine (total and free), ph, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, Metals, Cyanuric Acid, and Phosphates. This should be done just after opening the pool for the season, just before closing the pool for the winter, as well as a couple of times mid-season. 2. Treat water with stain control if metals are in the water. 3. Clean filter (backwash) this is usually determined by watching the pressure in the filter. When the filter is started just after a thorough cleaning observe (write down) the psi reading on the pressure gauge. When the pressure in the filter rises to 1-1/2 times this reading it is time to clean the filter (this is usually a rise of 7-10 psi). This may occur quite often at the beginning of the season, or after a bad algae infestation. After the season clean the filter with filter cleaner to ensure maximum performance. 5

8 What to Do & When to Do It As Needed Rain will knock out the sanitizer by washing contaminants into the pool. Pre-treat the pool with algaecide before a heavy rain if you know one is coming, and then shock the pool afterwards. A heavy thunderstorm can also cause a heavy load of nitrates in the pool which may cause problems controlling algae and maintaining a good sanitizer level. This can be tested at your pool store. Dogs or other small animals using the pool are equivalent to having a large pool party. One dog is the equivalent of 50 people in the amount of contaminants introduced into the water. Shock more frequently if your dog is in the pool often. Yard maintenance (mowing, spraying, leaf blowing) puts a large number of particulates into the air that will settle on the pool. Also spraying will introduce a significant amount of phosphates into the water which then becomes an invitation and banquet for algae. Shock the pool and make sure you have your water regularly tested for phosphates. Parties load the pool with tanning lotions, sun block, hair conditioner, skin lotion, sweat, dirt, particles of skin, hair, spit and other things you probably don t want to know about. Shocking your pool Shocking a pool performs 2 separate tasks. 1. The first is to rapidly oxidize organic contaminants in the pool and break down chloramines in the pool. 2. The second is to rapidly sanitize (kill or neutralize) any biotic contamination (bacterial, algal, viral) in the pool. Chlorine shock performs both of those tasks, but Chlorine Free Shock does only the first. Normally the chlorine level in the pool will adequately sanitize the pool (even with pool parties) so that either may be used. However, accidents may necessitate the use of chlorine shock. The primary benefit of AQUAZone Oxidizing Shock & Swim (chlorine free shock) is it will rapidly clear the pool and you may use it in a very short period of time - usually within 20 minutes. 6

9 What to Do & When to Do It Shocking your pool (continued) Shocking the pool with chlorine typically raises the chlorine level to 7-10ppm in order to rapidly oxidize any contaminants and to break down the normal level of chloramines present in the pool. Most typically AQUAZone Shock Treatment (cal-hypo) is used and is broadcast in powdered form over the surface of the pool. This chemical will not all dissolve before reaching the bottom of the pool. This is a problem if you have a vinyl liner pool as it will most likely bleach the liner in spots which will not go away. The best alternative for vinyl liner pools is Lithium Hypochlorite which is readily soluble. Another option for vinyl liner pools is regular use of AQUAZone Oxidizing Shock & Swim supplemented with infrequent use of either AQUAZone Quick Dissolving Shock or AQUAZone Multi-Shock. These dichlor shocks (AQUAZone Quick Dissolving Shock, and AQUAZone Multi-Shock) are not recommended for use as a primary sanitizer because they will rapidly elevate the cyanuric acid level causing problems later. Another option is to dissolve the AQUAZone Shock in a bucket before adding to pool. Liquid chlorine is an option, but will mean additional work keeping the alkalinity under control (it will raise significantly). The best way to disperse powdered shock is to add it slowly to the water above a return while the pump is running. Even in a plaster or painted pool shock may cause stains if there is metal in the water. This happens when shock is added with the circulation off and lands on bottom of the pool in a small area. The extremely high chlorine level will drive the metals out of the water in that small area. Do not add shock by pouring it into the skimmer. The extremely high level of chlorine present until the chemical is dispersed throughout the pool is harmful to the equipment. Infrequently Depending on where you live, you may be closing your pool once a year. It is very important to get the water balance correct when the pool is closed as the water will be remaining in this condition in your pool for approximately 6 months without being checked or circulated. During that period of time the water can do serious damage to your pool if it is out of balance. Take a sample of water to the pool store to make sure everything is in balance when you close (ph, alkalinity, metals and calcium hardness). All 4 levels need to be checked and adjusted to the recommended ranges. Make the adjustments at least 2 days before closing and check at closing to make sure that a proper chemical balance has been achieved (it may take that long for the effects of all chemical additions to achieve equilibrium). Once a year you will be opening the pool. If there is a significant amount of algae in the pool you will need to kill the algae with chlorine shock. Superchlorinate to at least 30ppm using Table B. Then treat with phosphate remover, enzyme treatment, metal control and algaecide after the chlorine level has dropped to 5ppm. 7

10 What to Do & When to Do It A Note on Draining Your Pool... There may come a time when it is necessary to empty the pool (see caution below). Situations that might call for this are: - extremely high levels of cyanuric acid 300ppm - very high levels of calcium hardness 400ppm - repairs. When you refill anticipate staining problems by treating the water for minerals as you add the water. Attach a rope to the handle of a 5 gallon bucket. Place the bucket in the deep end of the pool and fill with 3 gallons of water. Pour into the bucket enough metal control to treat all the water in the Pool (usually 1 quart / 20,000 gallons follow manufacturer s directions). When you put the refill hose in the pool, put the end in the bucket before you turn it on. Start the refill slowly until the bucket overflows then increase the flow. When the bottom of the pool is covered you can remove the bucket. If you refill the pool by putting the hose over the edge of the pool and letting the water run down the wall you are likely to get metal stains on the wall of the pool. Once the pool is refilled, treat the water to remove phosphates which are added to city water supplies to protect the transport pipes. WARNING Emptying your pool completely can be dangerous to the structural integrity of your pool. Water pressure underneath the shell of the pool can lift it several inches to a few feet and/or crack the shell. If you have a vinyl liner these can shrink while you do not have water in the pool. If you believe that it is necessary to drain the pool completely for any reason we recommend that you consult a pool professional about ground conditions in your area and what steps need to be taken to protect your pool while it is empty. 8

11 Ed Water Chemistry Keeping things in Balance First things First Keep all chemicals in their labeled containers. The containers have all the instructions needed for proper use and safe handling of the product, as well as emergency procedures and telephone numbers if needed. 2. Follow all label instructions on the chemical containers. 3. Keep chemicals out of the reach of children. 4. All chemicals should be added directly to pool water. Never pour water into a container with the chemical already in the container. 5. Do not mix any chemicals together. 6. Do not mix different types of chlorine together. DO NOT PUT ANY TYPE OF CHLORINE INTO A CONTAINER THAT HAS HELD A DIFFERENT TYPE OF CHLORINE IT CAN CAUSE AN EXPLOSION. 7. Wash hands thoroughly after handling chemicals. 9

12 Water Chemistry Introduction It is recommended that all chemicals be added to the deepest part of the pool while water is circulating (the pump is on). This will disperse the chemicals most quickly throughout the pool. The exception to this is the addition of AQUAZone Stabilizer. This should be added while the circulation is on, but is poured directly into the skimmer. Adjustments to the balancing chemistry should be done in the following order 1. Alkalinity 2. ph 3. Calcium Hardness A large adjustment to any element of balancing chemistry will take time. Do not try to read ph levels and make adjustment immediately after adding the chemicals needed to adjust alkalinity. Wait at least 4 hours with the circulation running before taking new readings and proceeding. When adjusting the ph of a pool go slowly add the chemical 1/3 at a time and wait between applications (6-8 hours with the pump running) then take new readings and proceed if needed. Sanitizer Sanitizer the chemical or device that kills microorganisms in pool water Chlorine This is the most popular sanitizer and has the added benefit of being a strong oxidizer. It is present in pool water in three forms. Free chlorine is the sanitizing agent that is also a strong oxidizer. Chloramine or combined chorine is the burned up chlorine that has oxidized organic contaminants to form a chlorine-ammonia compound. Chloramine is irritating to eyes and skin, and has a strong chlorine odor. Total Chlorine is the amount of free chlorine and combined chlorine in the pool water. Chloride, a salt, is the other form of chlorine which has oxidized contaminants. This will not show up on tests for total or free chlorine but is used as the source of free chlorine in a pool equipped with a chlorine or salt generator. The free chlorine level recommended in order to reduce disease causing organisms to approved levels is 1-3ppm. Test kits will test Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine, or Total Chlorine only. You need the test kits (DPD) or strips that test free chlorine. Test kits whose solution turns yellow in the presence of chlorine (OTO) test for total chlorine only. You may not get an accurate reading of the sanitizer in the pool. 10

13 Water Chemistry Chlorine (continued) Recommended free chlorine reading should be 1-3ppm. Total chlorine reading should be the same as the free chlorine reading no combined chlorine. Breakpoint chlorination If the total chlorine reading is higher than the free chlorine reading by a detectable amount a breakpoint chlorination is recommended. This is done by superchlorinating the water so that the free chlorine level is at least 10 times the combined chlorine level (use Table C). Do not be conservative if breakpoint chlorination is necessary; adding less than the required amount can create additional combined chlorine making the problem worse. Superchlorination or breakpoint chlorination is most effective if done at or near dusk. This will give the greatest amount of time for the chlorine to do its work before the sun begins to reduce the chlorine levels. WARNING WHEN TESTING FOR CHLORINE, REMEMBER THAT WHAT YOU ARE TESTING IS CHEMICALLY A BLEACHING AGENT. In strong enough concentrations (over 10ppm) it may partially or totally bleach the testing reagents and give a false low or zero reading (with very high readings there will be no chloramines present so there may be no detectable odor present with the pool water). If you believe that this is the case, dilute the sample by putting a cup of pool water into a quart jar and then filling the jar with distilled water or tap water. Mix this sample and then take the reading. Any reading you get from this sample must be multiplied by 4 to obtain a good approximation. If you have used tap water to dilute the sample it will have a low chlorine reading from the chlorine in the tap water (test some tap water and place it side by side with the diluted sample). If you find that you have a high reading, take a sample to the pool store and have it tested. It is not safe to swim in water with chlorine concentrations above 5ppm. 11

14 Water Chemistry Chlorine Stabilization Sunlight will deplete the free chlorine level in a pool fairly quickly unless something is done to slow this process. The addition of AQUAZone Stabilizer (cyanuric acid) will inhibit this process. When the level of cyanuric acid in the water is above 25ppm the free chlorine will last 3-5 times longer in strong sunlight. Levels above 50ppm do not give any added benefit. At very high levels cyanuric acid will reduce the effectiveness of the free chlorine and interfere with the water balance (alkalinity in particular). Recommended level for cyanuric acid in the pool water is ppm. The only way to remove cyanuric acid is to remove water and replace it with fresh water. Chlorine Neutralization When the free chlorine level needs to be lowered quickly it is possible to do so using sodium thiosulfate or similar neutralizer (see Table D). In this case conservatism is highly recommended. These neutralizers will instantly convert free chlorine to chloride. If too much is used chlorine will need to be added to the pool to get rid of the extra neutralizer and reestablish a free chlorine level of 1-3ppm. Once the neutralizer has been added to the pool the effect is instantaneous in the area of the pool having the neutralizer, but will not affect all the water until the water has been adequately mixed (turn on the circulation pump and an automatic cleaner to get maximum movement of the water). Wait at least 4 hours before testing the chlorine level to see if the desired level has been reached. Chlorinating Program Outdoor pools should use stabilized chlorine as the primary sanitizer. These are compounds that have the chlorine attached to a CYA molecule. These are most always trichlor in tabletized form, or dichlor in a granular form. Trichlor, because of its form in tablets or sticks makes it ideal for use in a chemical feeder that can be replenished periodically, but does not need to be checked every day. Dichlor can be used, but will need to be added every day as it dissolves immediately. This is not recommended as it can quickly build up levels of CYA. Superchlorination is used primarily to oxidize contaminants in the pool (every 7-10 days), and very rarely for breakpoint chlorination. Indoor pools on a chlorine program (bromine is widely used) should use unstabilized chlorine such as liquid chlorine, calcium hypochlorite or lithium hypochlorite. Chlorine should be added daily. Chloramines should be oxidized with the use of non-chlorine shock. Chlorine will not be burned off by sunlight, and if high levels of free chlorine are attained the excess chlorine will need to be neutralized rather than wait for it to be depleted. 12 WARNING If tablets or sticks are used in a chlorine feeder, NEVER PUT ANY OTHER TYPE OF CHLORINE IN THE FEEDER the mixing of these chemicals can cause an explosion and/or injury.

15 Water Chemistry Salt Water/Chlorine Generators This means of producing sanitizing chlorine in a pool has become increasingly popular over the last few years. Its popularity is due to its cost effectiveness and its ease of application. The initial outlay for this type of system is high, but it quickly pays for itself. The generator uses electrical current to make the sanitizing form of chlorine from salt (sodium chloride). The sanitizing chlorine turns back into chloride (salt) as it does its work and is ready to be used again. The generator can also be set to superchlorinate the pool automatically with generated chlorine. These controls have built-in timers and can be set to maintain the desired level of chlorine. They operate only while the pool pump is in operation. IMPORTANT NOTICE SACRIFICIAL ANODES Electrical current in the pool water will cause metals in contact with the water to corrode. The way to ensure that all of the metal fixtures on your pool stay in original condition is to provide a piece of metal that is more easily corroded than the metal you want to save. This piece of metal is called a sacrificial anode and must be in electrical contact with the metal it Is protecting (wire or metal to metal contact). Zinc is the metal that is most easily corroded and is inexpensive to replace. If you have a salt-generator (chlorine generator) on your pool you MUST have a sacrificial anode on the pool. This should be replaced when the pool is opened (the zinc may still be fairly substantial in size, but the surface corrosion reduces its effectiveness). While you must have a sacrificial anode if you have a salt generator which introduces electrical current into the water intentionally, it is highly recommended that you install an anode even if you don t. Water passing through plastic pipe will create a static electric charge. The pool needs to have a salt concentration near 3000ppm for the salt/chlorine generator to work properly (see the manufacturer s requirements). Any pool that has used chlorine for sanitization has a salt (chloride) concentration of some level. Once this has been measured using a suitable test kit or strip the proper salt concentration can be achieved by adding AQUAZone Pool Salt* using Table M. Once salt is in the pool it is lost only through splash-out or leak. If large amounts of water are added to the pool additional salt will need to be added to bring the concentration up to the required level. *WARNING Other types of salt should not be used as they usually contain an additive to lessen clumping. This additive contains sulfur which can cause yellow stains. AQUAZone Stabilizer will need to be added to the water to bring the concentration to 50ppm. Once in the water no additional stabilizer would need to be added and it will not build up because stabilized chlorine is not being used regularly. The benefits of this method are the savings in chemicals for sanitizing and oxidizing, and the ease of maintaining the proper sanitizer level. 13

16 Water Chemistry Sanitizer (continued) Bromine Bromine is a strong sanitizer, but a less effective oxidizer. It is used in combination with some other oxidizer such as chlorine, ozone, or AQUAZone Oxidizing Shock & Swim (potassium monopersulfate). Unlike chlorine, bromine sanitizes in both its free and combined forms. Bromine as it sanitizes eventually becomes bromide forming a reserve or bank which can be reactivated with shock. Chlorine will always sacrifice itself to restore bromine. Bromine may come in tablet, granular, or solution. Follow the manufacturer s direction for application. Recommended level for bromine is 4-6ppm. Ozone Ozone is an extremely strong fast-acting sanitizer and oxidizer. It is extremely unstable and will break down within about 20 minutes. It sanitizes and removes contaminants as the water passes through the ozone generator and thus is better suited to spas as the water is circulated through the filter in a shorter span of time than a pool. It will provide no residual protection for the pool or spa when the pump is off, so it must be paired with a low-level chlorine or bromine program to provide full-time protection. Copper/Silver/Zinc Ion The use of silver in the prevention and treatment of infections goes back to long before people knew that bacteria existed. They knew that the treatment worked without knowing what it did. Copper has been used the same way as an algaecide. These systems have a mineral pack containing silver, silver and copper, or copper and zinc compounds that very slowly release ions for killing bacteria and algae. This allows for a much lower chlorine level in the pool to keep the water safe for bathers. These mineral cartridges need to be changed periodically as they get depleted. Test kits that monitor low levels of chlorine are needed with this system (0.5 ppm chlorine is recommended). Shocking is necessary periodically and is accomplished with AQUAZone Oxidizing Shock & Swim (potassium monopersulfate). Do not use algaecides containing silver or copper with these systems. 14

17 Water Chemistry Borate Borate salt in the pool water effectively kills algae and remains in the water after the initial treatment, acting as an algae inhibiter. In addition to the borate salt, a low level of chlorine is used as a sanitizer. The chlorine level needed is typically about 0.25ppm. The nice feature to this program is that the borate salts are very closely related to be solutions that are used in eyedrop and contact lens solutions. Thus this program is very swimmer friendly and adds softness to the water. It can be used on all sanitizing systems. Shock is added weekly as an oxidizer. Recommended borate level is between 30 and 50ppm. Biguanide This system is similar to the borate system above in that it uses PHMB (polyhexamethylene biguanide) as a biocide (sanitizing agent) to kill bacteria. It is used in conjunction with a quat based algaecide, and compatible shock (hydrogen peroxide). This system is not compatible with chlorine, bromine, ozone, ionizations systems, silver or copper algaecides. Use only stain and scale inhibitors that contain no phosphates. Three things must be done to continue to have good performance from a biguanide system: 1) maintain PHMB and peroxide levels at all times, 2) replace sand in a sand filter or cartridge in a cartridge filter each year (for a DE filter, all the DE must be replaced each time it is backwashed), 3) empty out and replace 50% of the water at one time each year. If these three things are not done gummy residues will build up in the filters that make operation problematic. The other issue with biguanide is that there is little evidence that it is an effective anti-viral agent. It is very swimmer friendly as PHMB is also used in some contact lens sterilizing solutions. 15

18 Water Chemistry ph The ph scale is a logarithmic measure related to the concentration of hydrogen ions in solution (strongly acidic solution is 0, strongly alkaline is 14). Neutral ph is 7, but the recommended level for swimming pool water is (ph of the human eye is 7.5). The scale is logarithmic which means that each number is 10 times as strong as the one before. Thus a ph of 6 is 10 times more acidic than ph 7, but a ph of 5 is 100 times more acidic than ph 7. Straying far from 7.5 is dangerous and expensive, it does not take 2 times as much balancing chemicals to get to 7.5 from 6.5 as it does from 7.0, it takes 4 to 5 times as much and gets much worse as the ph strays even farther. Low ph Water with a low ph reading below 7.0 will be corrosive (act as an acid) in the pool. It will dissolve metals (copper in heaters, railings), pit concrete and cause staining of walls because of the metals and other chemicals absorbed into the water. It will cause skin and eye irritation. It will degrade vinyl so that it begins to wrinkle. High ph When the ph is too high (above 7.8) the water can begin to form scale deposits plugging filters, causing rough surfaces on pool walls and white deposits on tile surfaces. The water will become cloudy. Chlorine begins to lose its effectiveness, even though the chlorine reading remains high. Chlorine is more effective if a significant portion in the water is in acidic form. Thus a high ph drastically reduces the effectiveness of the chlorine causing problems with algae. Testing ph The most common indicator for ph of pool water is phenol red which changes from yellow in acidic solution to dark red in alkaline solution. Phenol red makes this change gradually in a range from 6.8 to 8.4. making it ideal for testing swimming pools. False readings may occur in the presence of high chlorine levels (10ppm and above), the indicator phenol red is chemically changed to chlorphenol red which changes color in a different range from yellow at 5.0 to purple at 6.6. If a high level of chlorine is present, a drop of sodium thiosulfate may be added to the sample to neutralize some of the chlorine, but it also has a high ph so it will change the reading of the sample slightly. When chlorine levels are elevated above the recommended level some of the indicator may change and cause the color to be redder at a lower ph than it would with normal levels of chlorine. When chlorine levels are high it is best to wait until the level drops to the recommended (1-3ppm), then test for ph and make the proper adjustments. To raise the ph perform a base demand drop test with a Taylor test kit and use Table E to adjust the ph with AQUAZone ph Plus (soda ash). To lower the ph perform an acid demand drop test with a Taylor test kit and use Table F or G to adjust ph with acid, either AQUAZone ph Minus or liquid (muriatic acid). To lower ph add acid with pool circulation on and spread the chemical as widely as possible. 16

19 Total Alkalinity Water Chemistry Total Alkalinity is a measure of the ability of water to resist changes in ph. It acts like a shock absorber when chemicals that are high or low in ph are added to the pool. If water is low in alkalinity ph will be very unstable and the addition of small amounts of chemical will make large changes in ph. The effect of low or high levels of alkalinity cause the same difficulties produced by low or high ph. The target values for alkalinity will vary depend depending on the sanitizer used regularly on the pool. This is because the acidic or alkaline nature of the sanitizers. If you are using Alkaline sanitizers such as cal-hypo, lithium hypochlorite, or sodium hypochlorite (liquid chlorine) the target total Alkalinity value is ppm If you are using Acid sanitizers such as bromine, trichlor (tabs/sticks), or granular dichlor the target total Alkalinity value is ppm Testing Alkalinity Test strips or a titration test will give a reliable reading. Test the pool when the chlorine levels are in the range for swimming (1-3ppm). A high level of chlorine will give false colors to the reagent change point. Low Total Alkalinity The ph will vary widely, the water will be corrosive pitting the concrete, dissolving metals, and staining the walls. To correct this condition add AQUAZone Alkalinity Increase, or AQUAZone Buffer Plus (sodium bicarbonate) according to Table H with the circulation on, broadcasting it as widely as possible over the deep end of the pool.. High Total Alkalinity The water will cause scaling, white deposits, rough pool surface, reduced circulation, and cloudy water. The ph will tend to drift upwards. The same chemicals are used to reduce alkalinity as are used to reduce ph (i.e. AQUAZone ph Minus, or muriatic acid). Alkalinity is slower to respond to the addition of acids than ph, so give it some time. Generally the acid used to lower alkalinity (either dry or liquid) is added with the water circulating (pump running) to disperse the chemical rapidly throughout the pool. This is done to ensure that anyone using the pool will not be swimming through areas with high chemical concentrations. An alternate method may be used if no one will be using the pool during treatment. The circulation is turned off and when the water is completely still the acid is poured into the deep end of the pool in columns so that there are localized areas of the pool which become extremely low in ph (below 2.3). When this happens the alkalinity in those areas goes to zero. After 2 hours the circulation is turned back on and the water mixed, allowing it to come to chemical equilibrium. The water should circulate at least 4 hours before anyone enters the pool. Wait 24 hours after adding chemical before testing the water again. 17

20 Water Chemistry Calcium Hardness It is extremely important to have calcium hardness in the water of your swimming pool. Water without calcium will become aggressive, trying to pull calcium into the water from pool and deck surfaces (concrete, grout and vinyl plasticizers). It will pit concrete, etch plaster, dissolve grout, and make vinyl brittle over a period of time. It will also be chemically aggressive to copper surfaces (heaters). High calcium hardness can cause scaling (white deposits on pool surfaces), cloudy water, and heater inefficiency. The recommended level for calcium hardness is ppm. Raising Hardness AQUAZone Calcium Hardness Increaser (calcium chloride) is used to increase the hardness level of pool water, use Table K for the appropriate amount of chemical needed. This chemical does not dissolve rapidly so it will need to be dissolved in a container before being added to the pool (be aware that this chemical reaction will produce some heat). When dissolving this chemical add the dry chemical to water, NEVER POUR WATER ONTO THE DRY CHEMICAL. Lowering Hardness The only way to lower calcium hardness in a swimming pool is to drain a large amount of water and replace it with fresh water that is lower in calcium hardness. 18

21 When Trouble Comes How to Get Out of It When you have to treat a visible problem remember that these visible problems result from conditions that can also create problems you can t see. For instance, algae usually results from low chlorine levels in the pool, and while algae by itself is not harmful to humans, the low chlorine levels can allow conditions that are harmful to develop (namely bacteria). Stains result from water imbalances that can cause equipment problems and failures. 19

22 Troubleshooting Algae This can be the most common and the most frustrating problem you will deal with in keeping your pool inviting and enjoyable. There are several types commonly found in swimming pools. 1. Green: free in the water, or attached to pool walls. 2. Yellow/brown (mustard): attached to walls and in corners 3. Black: usually small patches (with a hard outer surface) embedded into a surface of the pool. There are a couple of infestations that resemble algae, but are actually bacteria. 1. Pink: free in the water and on pool walls 2. Blue-green: resembles green algae, but is bacterium that thrives on phosphates. Algae will thrive in bright sunlight, low chlorine levels, warm water, in areas of the pool with poor circulation, and with high levels of nitrates and phosphates. Prevention is the best treatment. Maintain proper levels of chlorine, shock the pool weekly, add AQUAZone Poly-60 Algaecide regularly, and remove phosphates if present in levels above 200ppb (parts per billion). When an algae infestation occurs shock the pool to 7-10ppm of chlorine if the algae has just appeared, 15-20ppm if the problem has existed for a week, and 30ppm if the algae problem is severe. 20

23 Algae Types Troubleshooting Yellow/Brown (Mustard) Algae Yellow Algae responds well to treatment by AQUAZone Yellow Out. It is used in conjunction with Calcium Hypochlorite shock. Follow manufacturer s instructions for application of product. Black Algae Black Algae forms in small spots or patches and is particularly stubborn. It needs to be brushed repeatedly to break through the outer layer while being treated with high levels of chlorine. This form of algae sends tendrils (root-like appendages) into the surface of the pool and the longer it is left untreated the harder it is to get rid of, so immediate treatment is crucial. With infestations in white plaster pools you can use powdered trichlor applied directly on the black areas. In pools that are not white plaster this treatment will cause bleaching of the surface; for these pools a chelated copper algaecide is recommended. Pink Algae Pink algae is actually a bacteria that infects a pool, and can be carried from one pool to another on a swimmer s suit. It is very important when treating this infection to disinfect anything that might have the bacteria on it at the same time as the pool water is treated. Before treating the pool water, throw into the pool all poolside and maintenance equipment that has come into contact with water from the pool then treat the water. Wash swimsuits with mild bleach. Tell anyone that might have been swimming in the infected pool that their swimming suit needs to be washed with bleach. Pink algae is not harmful to humans, but is unsightly, and can be indicative of other non-visible problems that will be treated when the pink algae is removed from the pool. Sodium bromide treatments are effective for this type of infestation when used according to manufacturer s directions. High Phosphate Phosphate is a nutrient for plants (algae) and enters a pool from dirt, soil, fertilizers, hair conditioners, shampoo, some pool chemicals, fill water, detergents, and swimmer waste (perspiration). The recommended level in a pool is below 200ppb. High levels can cause problems with cloudy water, persistent algae problems, lack of chlorine, and improper operation of chlorine generators. Any level above 500ppb should be treated with a phosphate remover, SeaKlear Phosphate Remover or Natural Chemistry Phos-Free are excellent. 21

24 Troubleshooting Stains Stains can be caused by metals (copper, iron or manganese) present in the water, or from tannins in organic materials (leaves for example). Colored water is caused by metals in the water. Stains may result when other chemicals are added to the pool when not pre-dissolved (not because they contain metal) by forcing metals dissolved in the water to deposit on the pool surface. The most common entry method for metals in pool water is from fill water which may contain copper, iron or manganese. Copper will usually cause blue or black stains, iron will cause reddish brown stains and manganese will cause purple stains. Treatment of the fill water as it is being put into the pool is the best preventative. The other method by which metals enter the water is by imbalanced water. When the ph is low, or the calcium hardness of the water is low the water will be very aggressive on metal objects in contact with the pool water (railings, the interior of the heater and light fixtures). When metallic stains are present check the water balance (bring it into balance if necessary) and then use AQUAZone Super Stain Remover-Liquid. For pools with a salt generator use SeaKlear Metal Klear or Natural Chemistry Metal Free (contain no phosphates). Organic stains can result from a number of conditions. An algae infestation may leave a green ring around the pool, lotions may leave a gummy residue that attracts dirt and leaves a brown ring around the pool, leaves settling on the bottom of the pool may cause black stains. These organic stains are very effectively treated with enzyme cleaners such as those from Natural Chemistry. Since lotions are a frequent addition to the pool water via swimmers, a regular program of preventive care with an enzyme treatment such as Natural Chemistry Pool Perfect is highly recommended. 22

25 Troubleshooting Cloudy Water This condition can result from a number of causes small particles of debris in the water (an indicator of poor circulation and/or filtration), chemical imbalance such as high ph or alkalinity, or high levels of organic contaminants (lotions, body oils). Test the water for high ph, or high alkalinity and correct if necessary. Cloudy water as a result of poor circulation/filtration is an indicator that your filter needs to be checked. Sand that has not been changed for a number of years may have channels formed in it by which pool water bypasses the filtration. Sand should be changed every 5-7 years unless the sanitizer is Biguanide then it should be changed every year. A DE grid that has a hole in it can allow DE to be circulated into the pool. Shock the pool after parties or high usage to rid the pool of contaminants. Filtration can be enhanced and the filtering process speeded up by using AQUAZone Poly Clarifier. Corrosion/Scaling/Pitting on Equipment or Surfaces Check the ph level, alkalinity level and calcium hardness and adjust as necessary. Make sure the chlorine level is in the recommended range before testing. Adjust the alkalinity first, ph second, and calcium hardness level last. When Help is Needed Find a professional pool service company and keep their number handy. Problems will arise and they will always be at the most inconvenient times. Ask your friends and neighbors who they use and how they like the service. A pool service company will be happy to provide you with contracted service as much or as little as you need ranging from weekly service including testing, to a monthly cleaning service, or to opening and closing only. They are also available for one-time service for repair. No matter how good you are at maintaining and caring for your pool (with the help of this guide you will be great) things will eventually wear out and need to be replaced or repaired. Happy Swimming! 23

26 Recommended Water Balance Guidelines ANSI/NSPI What Who Minimum Ideal Maximum Free Chlorine, ppm Pools Spas Combined Chlorine, ppm Pools, Residential Spas Public Spas Total Bromine, ppm All PHMB, ppm All ph All Total Alkalinity All * * Total Dissolved Solids, ppm All NA NA 1500 over startup TDS Calcium Hardness, ppm Pools Spas Heavy Metals All NA NA NA Visible Algae All None None None Bacteria All None None Local Code CYA, ppm All Temperature, F Pools Personal Pref F 104 F Spas Personal Pref. Personal Pref. 104 F Ozone, ppm All over 8hr time-weighted average ORP Public Pools/Spas 650 MV - - *For Calcium Hypochlorite, Lithium Hypochlorite, or Sodium Hypochlorite **For Sodium Dichlor, Sodium Trichlor, or Bromine 24

27 Tables & Measurements Tips on measurements and use of treatment tables Even though the measurements seem very exacting, remember you are trying to hit within a range of measurements. For example your Alkalinity measures 210 ppm, your pool is 20,000 and you use Dry Acid to lower Alkalinity. The desired range for your pool is , so you have to lower the alkalinity ppm. Notice that the higher portion of this range is off the charts. Divide the numbers in half (45-60 ppm) and double the recommended amount. The applicable portion of Treatment Table I is Desired drop in ppm 20, ppm 17.2 lb 50 ppm 21.5 lb 60 ppm 26 lb Therefore the recommended dosage is from the chart is between 19.3 and 26 lbs, but you need to double this because you need to change the ppm by ppm so the dosage will need to be between 40 and 52 lbs anywhere in that range is ideal. Treatment Tables % Avail. Chlorine Table A Amount of Shock to Introduce 7 ppm Chlorine Volume of Water, US 400 1,000 5,000 10,000 20,000 50,000 Liquid Chlorine* 10.7% 3.4 fl oz 8.4 fl oz 2.6 pts 2.6 Qts 1.3 Gal 3.3 Gal AQUAZone Lithium Hypochlorite 35% 1.1 oz 2.7 oz 13.4 oz 1.7 lbs 3.3 lbs 8.3 lbs AQUAZone Multi-Shock 35% 1.1 oz 2.7 oz 13.4 oz 1.7 lbs 3.3 lbs 8.3 lbs AQUAZone Quick Dissolve Shock 55.5% 0.7 oz 1.7 oz 8.4 oz 1.1 lbs 2.1 lbs 5.3 lbs AQUAZone Shock Treatment 65% 0.6 oz 1.5 oz 7.2 oz 14.4 oz 1.8 lbs 4.5 lbs *Sodium Hypochlorite solution 12.5% - available chlorine 10.7% (at full strength - deteriorates over time) 25

28 Tables & Measurements % Avail. Chlorine Volume of Water, US 400 1,000 5,000 10,000 20,000 50,000 Liquid Chlorine* 10.7% 14.4 fl oz 1.1 Qts 1.4 Gal 2.8 Gal 5.6 Gal 14 Gal AQUAZone Lithium Hypochlorite AQUAZone Multi-Shock AQUAZone Quick Dissolve Shock AQUAZone Shock Treatment Table B 30ppm Super-Shock Table for Algae Removal 35% 4.6 oz 11.4 oz 3.6 lbs 7.2 lbs 14 lbs 36 lbs 35% 4.6 oz 11.4 oz 3.6 lbs 7.2 lbs 14 lbs 36 lbs 55.5% 2.9 oz 7.2 oz 2.3 lbs 4.5 lbs 9 lbs 23 lbs 65% 2.5 oz 6.2 oz 1.9 lbs 3.9 lbs 7.7 lbs 19 lbs *Sodium Hypochlorite solution 12.5% - available chlorine 10.7% (at full strength - deteriorates over time) % Avail. Chlorine Volume of Water, US 400 1,000 5,000 10,000 20,000 50,000 Liquid Chlorine* 10.7% 0.5 fl oz 1.2 fl oz 5.9 fl oz 11.9 fl oz 1.5 pt 1.9 Qt AQUAZone Lithium Hypochlorite AQUAZone Multi-Shock AQUAZone Quick Dissolve Shock AQUAZone Granular Dichlor AQUAZone Shock Treatment Table C Amount of Chlorine Products to Introduce 1ppm Chlorine for Breakpoint Chlorination 35% 0.2 oz 0.4 oz 1.9 oz 3.8 oz 7.6 oz 1.2 lb 35% 0.2 oz 0.4 oz 1.9 oz 3.8 oz 7.6 oz 1.2 lb 55.5% 0.1 oz 0.2 oz 1.2 oz 2.4 oz 4.9 oz 12 oz 55.5% 0.1 oz 0.2 oz 1.2 oz 2.4 oz 4.9 oz 12 oz 65% 0.1 oz 0.2 oz 1 oz 2.1 oz 4.1 oz 10.3 oz *Sodium Hypochlorite solution 12.5% - available chlorine 10.7% (at full strength - deteriorates over time) 26

29 Tables & Measurements Desired drop in ppm 400 Table D To Decrease Free Chlorine Using Sodium Thiosulfate*5-Hydrate (100%) 1,000 Volume of Water, US 5,000 10,000 20,000 50, oz 0.1 oz 0.7 oz 1.4 oz 2.7 oz 6.8 oz oz 0.3 oz 1.4 oz 2.7 oz 5.4 oz 13.6 oz oz 0.4 oz 2.0 oz 4.1 oz 8.2 oz 1.3 lb oz 0.5 oz 2.7 oz 5.4 oz 10.9 oz 1.7 lb oz 0.7 oz 3.4 oz 6.8 oz 13.6 oz 2.1 lb oz 1.4 oz 6.8 oz 13.6 oz 1.7 lb 4.3 lb oz 2.0 oz 10.2 oz 1.3 lb 2.6 lb 6.4 lb oz 2.7 oz 13.6 oz 1.7 lb 3.4 lb 8.5 lb oz 4.1 oz 1.3 lb 2.6 lb 5.1 lb 12.8 lb oz 6.8 oz 2.1 lb 4.3 lb 8.5 lb 21.3 lb Base Demand Reagent Table E To Increase ph Using AQUAZone ph Plus (Sodium Carbonate, 100%) With the Taylor Base Demand Procedure 400 Volume of Water, US 1,000 5,000 10,000 20,000 50,000 1 drop 0.2 oz 0.5 oz 2.6 oz 5.1 oz 10.3 oz 1.6 lb 2 drops 0.4 oz 1.0 oz 5.1 oz 10.3 oz 1.3 lb 3.2 lb 3 drops 0.6 oz 1.5 oz 7.7 oz 15.4 oz 1.9 lb 4.8 lb 4 drops 0.8 oz 2.1 oz 10.3 oz 1.3 lb 2.5 lb 6.4 lb 5 drops 1.0 oz 2.6 oz 12.8 oz 1.6 lb 3.2 lb 8.0 lb 6 drops 1.2 oz 3.1 oz 15.4 oz 1.9 lb 3.9 lb 9.6 lb 7 drops 1.4 oz 3.6 oz 1.1 lb 2.2 lb 4.5 lb 11.2 lb 8 drops 1.6 oz 4.1 oz 1.3 lb 2.6 lb 5.1 lb 12.8 lb 9 drops 1.9 oz 4.6 oz 1.4 lb 2.9 lb 5.8 lb 14.4 lb 10 drops 2.1 oz 5.1 oz 1.6 lb 3.2 lb 6.4 lb 16.0 lb 27