Strawberry Planting Project

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1 4-H-M Strawberry Planting Project Name County Age Years in 4-H Club Address Date project completed 4-H Programs

2 Objectives This project is for 4-H ers wanting to grow a crop to eat at home, to sell, or to learn the fundamentals of strawberry production. Strawberries are a big money crop. 4-H ers taking the Strawberry Planting Project, should: be interested in continuing the project for two or more years. have some way of getting the crop to market regularly during the harvest season, or plan to sell strawberries at a roadside stand. This publication may contain outdated material on hazardous chemicals. Read product labels for the most current information and ask the manufacturer for a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). The West Virginia University Extension Service assumes no responsibility in the use of hazardous chemicals. Revised 1965 Carl Hardin, Extension Specialist Horticulture Revised 1994 Juanita Popenoe and John Jett, Extension Specialists Horticulture Revised 2004 John Jett, Extension Specialist Horticulture

3 Strawberry Growing 1. Size of Strawberry Planting You and your parents should determine the size of the planting. The minimum amount should be 25 plants for the first year. You may want to set as many as 100 plants. If the plants are set 1 foot apart in the row and the rows are 3 feet apart, you would need approximately 300 square feet for 100 plants. 2. Plant Site Selection a. Because the strawberry plants must be cultivated, they should not be planted on a site that is steep enough to erode. A slope of 2 to 3 feet in 100 feet is usually as much as the planting can handle. b. A suitable soil is one that is sufficiently drained so that water will not stand on it for more than a few hours at any time of the year. It must contain enough organic matter to hold moisture well. A gravelly or sandy loam is ideal, but any soil type will do if it meets these requirements. c. Strawberries should not follow a grass sod because white grubs may injure the strawberry plants. If the soil has been cultivated for two or three years, weed control will be easier. Grubs can be controlled with a chemical such as Merit. (See page 14 for control of insects and diseases.) (silt loam, clay loam, sand, etc.) (hay, corn, etc.) (Fill in the following information) Site and Soil My soil is a. The Extension agent (vo-ag teacher) tested my soil and found the ph to be. It was in last year. Strawberries should not follow a grass sod because grass sod often has, and these eat the strawberry roots. A good rotation for strawberries has the following (see page 12): 1 st year 2 nd year 3 rd year 4 th year 5 th year A slope of feet in 100 feet will give good air drainage. Air drainage is important for strawberries because they are subject to. My slope is approximately feet per 100 feet. My slope is to the. (north, west, east, south) 1

4 Planting Plan Make a diagram of your strawberry planting. Indicate size of patch, planting distances, and varieties. 2

5 Getting the Plants 1. You will have the best results if you buy the plants from a reliable nursery. Send in your order early preferably a month or more before you need the plants stating the date you want them delivered. 2. Recommended varieties are virus-free Earliglow 1,2, Annapolis 2, Sable 2 early; virus-free Allstar 1,2, Seneca 1,2, Surecrop 1,2 midseason; virus-free Lateglow 1,2, Idea 1,2 late. Tribute 1,2 and Tristar 1,2 are a day-neutral strawberries that will fruit all summer. One or all may be grown, depending on when the berries can be sold most profitably. 1 Verticillium wilt resistant 2 Red stele resistant First Year of the Planting March: I ordered plants of (number) (variety/varieties) from on. (name of nursery) The cost was, and the delivery date specified was. The plants arrived on, and were handled as follows: (date) before setting. (placed in cool basement, heeled in on north side of barn, etc.) There are several good early varieties, such as or. Growers often prefer to use early and midseason varieties in order to spread out their picking season. Three good varieties for midseason are,, and. Many consumers fail to realize when the main crop of berries is ready for harvest and ask for berries late in the season. Two varieties that bear late are and. (date) 3

6 Preparing the Soil 1. Liming is seldom necessary for strawberries. If the ph is above 5.0, liming usually provides little, if any, benefit. 2. The organic matter should be built up by turning under green manure crops or up to 1.25 tons of weed-free barnyard manure per 1,500 square feet. 3. Plow the land as soon as possible after March Disk under 40 pounds of fertilizer for each 1,500 square feet shortly before setting the plants. If is not available, use a fertilizer having as similar a formula as possible. Prepare the soil as carefully as you would for a good vegetable garden. The ph of my soil was found to be. Lime applied last year. (was or was not) I plowed under a cover crop of. The material was inches tall at plowing time. I was able to apply tons of weed-free manure to this plot before planting the strawberries. The ground was plowed on. Shortly after plowing, I applied pounds of fertilizer. This material was worked into the soil with on. (date) (date) (formula) (disk or disk harrow) 4

7 Setting the Plants 1. Plants should be set before the spring rainy season begins. That means between March 15 and April 15 in most parts of the state. 2. The usual planting distance is 3 feet by 1 foot. Approximately 14,520 plants can be set per acre at these distances. 3. Keep the plants in a cool basement or heel them in along the north side of a building or board fence if they cannot be set immediately after they arrive. 4. Carry plants to the field in a bucket of water and remove only a few from the bucket at a time so the roots will not become dry. 5. Use the following general method of setting: Make a V-shaped opening about 6 inches deep with a trowel, flat dibble, or spade. Place the plant in the opening with the roots spread out in a fan shape and the center of the crown at the soil level. Insert the trowel or other implement about 2 inches from the plant and at a little greater angle than before. Then firmly pull up the soil against the roots. Make sure no air spaces are left around the roots. Because early planting is recommended, I set my plants on. A common planting distance for shy-runnering plants like Tribute is 6 to 8 inches apart in rows, with the rows being 3 feet apart. According to this formula, 29,040 plants are needed per acre. Varieties like Allstar, Earliglow, and Lateglow produce more runner plants. Therefore, they are set 1 foot apart in rows 3 feet apart. Thus, plants are needed per acre, for 1 / 2 acre, and for 1 / 8 acre. (Remember: 43,560 square feet are in an acre.) (date) My plants are in good condition for planting because they. I am planting the variety, and I have decided that the plants should be inches apart in the row and the rows should be inches apart. For best results, I kept my plants in a while planting them. I did this because I know a dry root usually is a dead one. My plants were set by means of, and the opening made was inches (trowel, spade, etc.) (were heeled in, just arrived, etc.) deep. I spread the roots in a shape so they would be in contact with more moisture and plant food. The crown was left at because if it was too deep the plant would suffocate and if too shallow it would dry out and die. After the crown was set at soil level, I moved my spade or trowel to about inches from the first opening and at a angle. After placing the spade at the greater angle and 2 inches from the first hole, I raised it to an upright position. This the soil around the roots. 5

8 I then leveled the soil around the plants to make a neat appearance and also to keep the soil from drying out rapidly. After planting the plants, I checked to see that no crowns were buried and no roots were exposed to the air. I found that I had done a job of planting. (poor or good) Next time, I think that I will use the following method to plant: Spring Side-Dressing Even though 1,000 pounds per acre of complete fertilizer was disked in at planting time, side-dress the plants with nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia about three weeks after they are set. The fertilizer should be applied in a circle around each plant and about 1 inch from the plant. Do not let any fertilizer touch the plant. About 125 pounds per acre, or 1 pound for each 100 feet of row, should be applied. This material helps the plant to produce early runner plants of better quality. I used to side-dress my planting, and I did it weeks after planting. I used pounds, and it cost me $ for the whole planting. The best method I found for applying the material was 6

9 Cultivation Cultivation should begin immediately after transplanting and should be repeated every week or 10 days throughout the growing season. Always cultivate in the same direction so that the runners will be thrown back into the row. The cultivation should be more shallow and slightly farther from the plants each time. The planting should be cultivated with a tractor at least 10 times and hoed over five or six times. Dacthal can be used at planting to control some weeds chemically before they germinate. Sethoxydim can be used on grasses after they germinate. When you use this method, the plants will not need to be hoed as many times. Follow instructions in the Small Fruit and Grape Guide (Publication 865) available at your county WVU Extension office. I cultivated my planting for the first time on, and I used a. I plan to cultivate when the weeds are. Each time I cultivate, I plan to go between the rows in the same and as the plants grow I will cultivate more and slightly from the plants. I used to help reduce the hand-weeding in my planting. (geese or chemical) (type of cultivator) (date) Removing Bud Cluster As soon as clusters of buds begin to show, they should be pulled off. This will usually be in late April or early May. Removing the clusters must be done two or three times at 10-day intervals. If the plants are permitted to set fruit, runners will be produced too late to give the maximum crop the next year. The first buds were removed on. I went over the planting times. (date) I removed these bloom buds so that. 7

10 Chemical Weed Control If you decide to use chemical weed control, refer to the Small Fruit and Grape Guide (Publication 865) at your county WVU Extension office. If your plot is small, you may not be able to justify the expense of the chemical weed killer. By using the recommended legume cover crop, mulching, and regular hoeing, you should be able to control any weeds you might have. Runner Growth June, July, and August The new runners that form during the summer should be permitted to form a matted row 18 inches wide, but they should not be allowed to spread any farther. The later a runner roots, the smaller the plant and the lower the yield the next summer. Varieties like Allstar, Lateglow, and Earliglow have more runner plants than does Tribute. Any variety will make a good growth if you: 1. Plant early late March or early April in the Morgantown area. 2. Use commercial fertilizer about 1,000 pounds of per acre. 3. Plow under a good legume sod such as alfalfa or clover. 4. Apply ammonium nitrate or a similar material three to four weeks after planting. 5. Pick the bloom the year the plants are set; pick the bloom of day-neutral strawberries for the first six weeks. 6. Keep the planting free from weeds. I found my first runner on and noticed that it took root on. (date) (date) A few things that helped me to have early runners and an early, well-matted row were:

11 August Application of Nitrogen Fertilizer This is the time of year when each plant is making fruit buds for next year s crop. If you desire plenty of bloom next season, add 1 pound of nitrate to each 100 feet of row or 125 pounds per acre. For best results, apply the nitrogen material during the first half of August. It should be broadcast on the matted row when the foliage is dry. A piece of burlap or something similar should be dragged over the plants to brush off any fertilizer that might burn the leaves. Application of Nitrogen Fertilizer in August I applied pounds of on. This was applied at the rate of pounds per acre or pounds per 100 feet of row. I applied this material to increase my bud formation for next year s crop. This application cost me $. (date) I used a burlap bag to. My plants were dry so that the material would not. Note: Your strawberry planting should be mulched. Instructions are given in the Strawberry Harvesting Project. This is the end of the planting year of the strawberry project. During the year, I learned the following 10 things about strawberry culture I hoed my planting times, cultivated with a tractor times, and spent $ on the project. 9

12 I think this project could be improved by: Remarks by the leader: 10

13 Calendar Month Things to Do January February March April May June July August September October Make plan of planting. Order plants. Apply weed-free manure. Have soil tested. Plow ground. Broadcast fertilizer and disk in. Set plants. Check for buried crowns and exposed roots. Side-dress with nitrogen fertilizer. Cultivate and hoe over. Remove bloom (two times). Cultivate and hoe over at least twice.* Cultivate and hoe over at least twice.* Cultivate and hoe over at least twice.* Side-dress with nitrogen fertilizer. Cultivate and hoe over at least twice.* Cultivate and hoe over.* Cultivate if necessary. Get mulching material. November Mulch the planting when temperature is about 20 F. December Mulch the planting if not mulched in November. You will have best results if you set a new planting each year. If your plants are free from disease and in good condition, it might be to your advantage to use plants from last year s planting. *If using chemical weeding of strawberries, all the hoeings will not be necessary. Follow the chemical recommendations in the Small Fruit and Grape Spray Guide (Publication 865). 11

14 Strawberry Rotation Year First. Second Approved Practice Turn under a legume-clover or alfalfa sod. Plant strawberries. Do not set strawberry plants where tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplant, or raspberries were grown the previous few years, unless you use a variety resistant to verticillium wilt. This disease can be carried over to strawberries. Resistant varieties are listed on page 3 Harvest the strawberries in late May or early June. Plow under the plants as soon as the last berries are picked or keep the planting for a second harvest. Work the soil several times to control weeds and then seed to red clover and alfalfa mixture during the first half of August. Note: When garden space is limited, and your soil is free from strawberry root disease and weeds, plow under your old berry plants after the last picking and seed to crimson clover. This will be plowed under in the spring before you replant berries. Third Cut alfalfa and clover for hay. Fourth Cut alfalfa for hay. Fifth Plow down legume sod. Plant strawberries. Note: Legumes should be used for sod crops. Timothy and other nonlegumes encourage white grubs. The length of time the legume is left for hay should be determined by the amount of weeds and weed seed present. Legumes not only will improve your soil, but they also will suffocate weeds. 12

15 Cash Paid Out (Including Hired Labor) Date Item Amount Total 13

16 Control of Diseases and Insects What can I do for the more serious disease and insect pests of strawberries? An insecticide labeled for soil insects can be spread beside the row, or the soil can be treated as outlined in Growing Strawberries Commercially in West Virginia. Spittle bugs, aphids, gray mold fruit rot, and leaf spot will cause less damage if you follow this suggested spray schedule: When to spray Materials to make 1 gallon of spray 1. About April Thiodan (for spittle bug) 1 Tablespoon 2. When first blossoms open Use 3 level Tablespoons of Captan (for leaf spot, gray mold, aphids) or 3 level Tablespoons of Thiram Save the bees. Do not apply plus insecticides during bloom. 1 /4 teaspoon TopsinM 3. When first fruits are one-third Use Captan at rate to one-half grown of 3 level Tablespoons (for leaf spot and gray mold) or 1 Tablespoon of Thiram65WP Information in this project concerning spray and dust materials is supplied with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the West Virginia University Extension Service is implied. Handle all materials carefully and follow directions supplied by the manufacturer. Checklist Below is a checklist for this project. This helps you be sure you have completed all the activities of the project. Have you... Committed yourself to at least two years of strawberry-growing? Planted required amount per project year enrolled? Secured a way of regularly getting your crop to market? Had your Extension agent tour your strawberry site? Given a visual presentation or illustrated talk on this project? Completed all project records in this book? Had your parent(s) and leader review your completed project? Completed a project evaluation and forwarded it to either your leader or the State 4-H Office? Taken a soil sample and sent it to the WVU Soils Lab? 14

17 4-H Project Evaluation Now that you have finished this project, it is time for you to think about what you have learned. We also would like to know what you have learned and if the project needs to be improved. Your comments will help the people write the projects. Please write answers to the following questions. Then give this form to your 4-H leader or mail it to: Project Evaluation State 4-H Office Knapp Hall, PO Box 6031 Morgantown, WV Title of Project Girl Boy (circle one) Age Grade in School Years in 4-H 1. Was this your first project in this subject? 2. Why did you pick this project? 3. What was your favorite part of this project? 4. By doing this project, what did you learn that you didn t know before? 5. Did you do the activities in the project book? Why or why not? 6. What activities did you like doing? 7. How would you change this project to make it better? 8. Would you tell others to take this project? Why or why not? 9. What other 4-H projects have you taken? 10. If you have something else to say, write it on the back. 15

18

19 Scoring Guide Project Book Perfect Score Member s Score Page 1 4 Page 2 4 Page 3 4 Page 4 3 Page 5 5 Page 6 3 Page 7 2 Page 8 4 Page 9 4 Page 10 1 Page 13 6 Subtotal 40 Late August Field Tour (Project or Organizational Leader, or Extension Agent) 1. Stand of plants (The ideal is full matted rows 18 inches wide) Color and condition of plants Free of weeds 10 Subtotal 40 Activity Record 20 Total 100 Comments:

20 Programs and activities offered by the West Virginia University Extension Service are available to all persons without regard to race, color, sex, disability, religion, age, veteran status, political beliefs, sexual orientation, national origin, and marital or family status. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Director, Cooperative Extension Service, West Virginia University. ES04-110

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