Mackerel in coal oil with vintage beetroot, mustard & fennel

Transcription

1 Mackerel in coal oil with vintage beetroot, mustard & fennel PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEAN CAZALS Serves 6 Ingredients Mackerel 4 whole mackerel Coal oil 500ml rapeseed Oil 6 pieces charcoal Charcoal chimney starter Caper and lemon jam 100g caster sugar 100g peeled and sliced lemon 150g fine capers, finely chopped Liquid nitrogen Vintage beetroots 6 red, candy and golden baby beetroots from the clamp 30g caster sugar 15g muscavado sugar 1 lemon, zested 2 tbsp raspberry vinegar 1tbsp white wine vinegar English mustard mayonnaise 70g egg yolk 32g English mustard 3.5g sherry vinegar 3.5g Worchester sauce 500ml rapeseed oil Fennel meringues 220g fennel juice 100g icing sugar 25g egg white powder 1g xantham Fennel pollen Clams 24 clams 2 shallots finely sliced 1 garlic clove, finely sliced Pinch of sugar 100ml white wine To garnish Forced vintage beetroot leaves Fennel shoots Rapeseed oil Assorted flowers Salt and Pepper Method Mackerel Fillet the whole mackerel and then skin each filet. Cut each filet into two, lengthways, leaving the bones that run down the middle as waste. Cut each side of the fillet into natural flakes working with the grain of the fish. Keep the cut pieces in a bowl over ice as you are working. FOUR I 1

2 Coal oil Use the charcoal chimney starter to get the charcoal burning by placing it over a gas hob. Once it is lit, let it burn until the charcoal turns white and the flames have died down. Put the rapeseed oil in a heavy-based pan. Use a pair of tongs to drop the hot coals into the rapeseed oil and leave to cool down, allowing the charcoal sediment to settle on the bottom of the pan. Leave for at least 3 hours then carefully harvest the oil from the top, leaving any sediment behind and pass through muslin. Caper and lemon jam Take the sliced lemon, making sure pips have been removed. Then freeze in liquid nitrogen and blitz in a Thermomix until you have a fine powder. Take ¹ ³ of the sugar and start a caramel in a heavy-based pan. Once it starts to caramelise add another ¹ ³. Once this has melted, add the final ¹ ³ and take it to a deep caramel colour. Add the blitzed lemon to the caramel and cook until it is fully incorporated, then add the finely chopped capers and cook slowly for approx. 2 hours with a cartouche on top until you have a good jam consistency. Vintage beetroots Blanch the beetroots separately in boiling salted water for 5 minutes and re-fresh in iced water. Rub the skins from the beetroots and clean up. Place the beetroots in 3 individual vacuum bags with 5g muscavado sugar, 10g sugar and a pinch of lemon zest in each. Add 1tbsp of raspberry vinegar to the red and candy beets and 1tbsp of white wine vinegar with the golden beetroots. Vacuum seal and cook in a water bath at 85C for approx. 1 hour, or until just tender. Cool, in the bag, in iced water. Once cool open the bag and cut into desired shape. English mustard mayonnaise In a round-bottomed bowl mix the egg yolk, English mustard, vinegar and Worchester sauce with a whisk. Slowly feed in the rapeseed oil, whisking constantly until you have a mayonnaise. Season. Put in a squeezy bottle. Fennel meringue Mix the fennel juice, icing sugar, egg white powder and xantham in a bowl with a Bamix until all ingredients are fully incorporated. Transfer to a mixer and beat the mixture until it resembles a firm meringue. Pipe little dots onto a silpat lined dehydrator tray. Sprinkle over a little fennel pollen and dry at 65C for 2 hours or until crisp. Clams Sweat the shallots and garlic in a saucepan with a little rapeseed oil until cooked and translucent. Add a pinch of sugar and the white wine. Bring to the boil and add the clams. Place a lid on and cook for 1 minute. Pull out the clams as they open onto a tray. Strain the juices, chill and store the clams that have been removed from the shell in the juice. To Serve Spread caper jam onto the plate. Mix charcoal oil with the mackerel, to taste, and season. Place a pile of the mackerel on top of the jam, allowing 60g of fish per portion. Pipe dots of mustard mayo and then attractively arrange the beetroot, clams, dots of fennel meringue, fennel pollen, forced beet leaves, fennel shoots and flowers over the top. Finish with a little sprinkle of fennel pollen and rapeseed oil. FOUR I 2

3 Cod yolk, sage cream and pea shoots, salt & vinegar rice PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEAN CAZALS Serves 6 Ingredients Cod mousse 233g salted cod, rinsed 200ml whipping cream 87g potato purée 1 leaf of gelatine Yolk gel 500ml vegetable stock 50ml whipping cream 0.5g saffron 30g vege gel Sage cream 250ml sage oil 3 yolks 2 eggs 5g salt 5ml sherry vinegar 7g Dijon mustard Salt and vinegar rice 100g wild rice Vinegar powder Salt Tapioca maltodextrin To garnish Green pea shoot, to garnish Golden pea shoot, to garnish Rapeseed oil, to drizzle Method Cod mousse Bloom the gelatine in cold water. Seal the cod in a bag at full pressure, cook in a water bath at 50C for 15 minutes. Bring the cream to the boil and heat the potato purée. Put the cod, cream and potato purée in a blender; add the gelatine and blitz to a smooth consistency. Allow to cool, then pipe into hemispherical silicone moulds and freeze. Yolk gel Place the vegetable stock, cream and saffron in a pan and bring to a simmer, take off the heat and allow to cool. When cool, pass through a fine sieve, add the vege gel and return to the heat, bringing to the boil while stirring. Keep warm. Dipping the yolks Take the frozen cod mousse hemispheres and push a cocktail stick into each one at an angle. Ensuring the saffron gel is kept at 70C, dip each hemisphere into the gel twice, in FOUR I 3

4 succession and reserve in an ovenproof dish with the cocktail stick still in place. Allow to defrost in a fridge. Sage cream Place the yolks, eggs, salt, vinegar and mustard in a Thermomix and blend together. Slowly add the sage oil, while blending to make a sage mayonnaise. Add this to a cream whipper and charge twice. Place the whipper in a water bath at 50C and reserve. Salt and vinegar rice Heat vegetable oil to 220C and fry the wild rice until it puffs, drain immediately onto a paper towel and allow to cool. Put the puffed wild rice into a bowl and season with the vinegar powder and salt, to taste. Add tapioca maltodextrin until you have the desired consistency. To serve Take the dish with the yolks in, cover with cling film and gently heat at 50C. Place a spoonful of salt and vinegar rice in a bowl, carefully place a cod yolk on top, twisting out the cocktail stick. Garnish with the pea shoots. Cover the side of the yolk where the cocktail stick was with the warm sage cream and finish with a drizzle of rapeseed oil. FOUR I 4

5 Goosnargh duck breast and sweetbreads with salt baked turnip, leeks, chanterelle & Cowmire cider PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEAN CAZALS Serves 6 Ingredients duck breast 3 medium corn-fed duck crowns, skinned 3 large pieces of cooked duck skin (12 hours at 55C) Activa EB Transglutaminase duck sweetbreads 36 duck sweetbreads 200ml milk 200g plain flour and 200g trisol flour, mixed Activa EB Transglutaminase salt baked turnip 3 large Atlantic turnips 1kg plain flour 500g rock salt 500ml water leeks 18 young Varna leeks Chanterelles 500g Scottish chanterelles Cowmire cider sauce 2l brown chicken stock 2l white chicken stock 800g minced duck leg 1kg duck necks, chopped 200g carrot, finely sliced 300g onion, finely sliced 1 star anise 4g thyme 1.2l Cowmire cider Chopped parsley Finely chopped shallots anise oil 150ml rapeseed oil 3 star anise, crushed and roasted To garnish Turnip shoots, to garnish Salt and Pepper, to garnish Method duck breast Lay the cooked duck skin out flat, breast side up. Trim off excess fat and sinew to a thickness of 3mm. Remove the wishbone and sinew from the duck crowns. Dust with activa using a small sieve. Place the skin, breast side down, back on to the crowns, pressing down firmly. Place them in individual vacuum bags and vacuum on full pressure. Reserve in the fridge for 3 hours to bond and then cook in a water bath for 1 hour at 55C. Place the bags in ice water to chill thoroughly. Take the crowns from the bags, remove the breasts, trim and place in individual vacuum bags. duck sweetbreads Remove sinew from the sweetbreads and ensure they are of an even size. Lightly dust FOUR I 5

6 with activa and clump together in groups of 2. Wrap tightly in cling film to stick together and refrigerate for 3 hours. Place them in the milk, drain well and dust with the flour mix. Blanch by deep frying at 170C until crispy and lightly golden. Drain onto a cloth and reserve. salt baked turnip Peel the turnips. To make the salt dough, put the flour and salt in a bowl and gradually incorporate the water until you have smooth dough; you may not need all of the water. Roll out the dough and use it to completely encase and cover the individual turnips, making sure there are no gaps. Bake on a tray lined with a non-stick mat and bake at 190C for 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for a further 20 minutes. Crack open the salt dough and remove the baked turnip, the outside will be quite salty. Crush the flesh with a fork and adjust seasoning if needed. Keep warm. leeks Remove the outside layer of the leek, keeping the roots on. Wash the leek well, ensuring you clean inside the green. Trim the green end, but leave a good length. Dry well and deep fry the roots until crispy. Reserve for plating. Chanterelles Carefully trim the chanterelles, ensuring they are free of dirt and forest matter. Cut the very large ones to the same size as the rest. Leave uncovered to make sure they don t sweat. Cowmire cider sauce Caramelise the duck leg mince and the chopped duck necks, separately, in a heavybased pan, until you have a good deep and even golden colour. Strain to remove excess fat and reserve. De-glaze the pan with some of the white chicken stock and reserve. Cook the sliced carrot and onion in fat from the previous process until lightly caramelised. Add everything except for the cider to a pressure cooker and cook at 1 bar (15psi) for 1 hour. Meanwhile, reduce 95% of the cider to a syrup. Once the hour has passed, de-pressurise the pan and pass through a fine chinois. Reduce the sauce to the desired consistency, adding the cider reduction towards the end. When at the correct consistency, spike with some of the reserved fresh cider to achieve the desired flavour. Season. anise oil Bring the rapeseed oil and star anise to the boil. Leave to infuse in a warm place for 2 hours. Strain into a squeezy bottle. To serve Re-heat the duck breasts, in the bag, in a 50C water bath for 40 minutes. Open the bag and dry well. Season the flesh side, then place skin side down in a moderate (240C) frying pan to render and crisp the skin. Once crispy, flash the flesh side for 2 seconds and rest. Deep fry the blanched sweetbread at 180C until crispy and golden. Drain and season with fine sea salt. Give the salt baked turnip a little heat flash. Use some of the reserved fat from the sauce to fry the leeks; you are looking for a good colour, but not too dark. Season with salt as you go. Use some more of the reserved duck fat to fry the chanterelles, finishing with butter and seasoning with salt as you go. Place some salt baked turnip on the plate. Carve the duck and lay across. Attractively arrange the duck sweetbreads, leeks and chanterelles on the plate. Finish with a drizzle of cider sauce, of which the chopped parsley, shallot and turnip shoots has been added. FOUR I 6

7 Poached Yorkshire rhubarb with hazelnut, sweet cicely and meadowsweet PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEAN CAZALS Serves 6 Ingredients Poached rhubarb 1kg Yorkshire rhubarb 300g caster sugar 500ml water ½ lemon, juiced Rhubarb snow 2kg Yorkshire rhubarb 250g caster sugar 1 lemon, juiced Liquid nitrogen Hazelnut crisp 120g hazelnuts, chopped 120g bread, diced 75ml water 25g glucose 80g icing sugar 120g caster sugar 50g cornflour 1 egg 40g melted butter Sweet cicely syrup 500ml water 180g caster sugar 75g sweet cicely, blanched 2g xanthan gum Meadowsweet yoghurt mousse 135g egg yolk 150g caster sugar 50ml milk 400g meadowsweet yoghurt 2 gelatine leaves 450ml whipping cream Muscavado caramel 200g isomalt 150g muscavado sugar 150g glucose 100ml water Method POACHED Rhubarb Take the sugar, water and lemon juice and heat until the sugar dissolves. Chill over ice. Cut the rhubarb into 1 ½ cm batons, then place in a bag with the syrup and vacuum. Cook in a water bath for approximately minutes or until tender. Chill in the bag in ice water. FOUR I 7

8 Rhubarb snow Juice the rhubarb. Pass and weigh 1kg of the finished juice. Place the 1kg of juice, sugar and lemon juice in a pan and heat; use a hand blender to blitz together. Chill, put into a spray bottle and spray a fine mist in to the liquid nitrogen until you have formed a nice amount of snow. Reserve in a pre-frozen container in the freezer. Hazelnut crisp In a pan, dissolve water, glucose and caster sugar and heat to 160C. Mix in the chopped hazelnuts and pour onto baking parchment. Place another sheet over and roll out as thinly as possible. When it has fully hardened, chop finely. Finely dice the chopped bread and bake at 140C until golden brown. Combine the cornflour and icing sugar in a large bowl and stir in the chopped hazelnut caramel and toasted bread. Mix in the melted butter and egg. Sprinkle the mixture onto a baking sheet and bake at 160C for 15 minutes. Cool, then break into crumbs. Sweet cicely syrup Put the water and sugar in a pan and heat until the sugar has dissolved. Chill over ice. Put the blanched sweet cicely in a blender with the syrup and xanthan, blitz until you have a strong green syrup. Do not let it overheat. Pass and reserve. Meadowsweet yoghurt mousse Place the egg yolk, sugar, milk and 75g meadowsweet yoghurt in a round-bottomed metal bowl. Soak the gelatine in cold water to bloom. Place the yolks over a bain-marie and whisk until light and fluffy (ribbon stage). Remove from the heat and chill over ice. Continue to whisk until cold. Whisk the whipping cream to a soft peak stage, then incorporate the remaining (325g) meadowsweet yoghurt into the cream, continue to whisk back to a soft peak. Take ¹ ³ of the cream and yoghurt mix and whisk into the egg yolk base. Gently fold in the remaining ² ³, making sure it is evenly incorporated. Pour into a plastic container and chill. Muscavado caramel Place all ingredients in a heavy-bottomed pan, on a low to medium heat, and cook out to 160C. Pour onto a non-stick mat and leave to cool. Once cool and hard, break up, slightly. Put into a Thermomix and blitz to a fine powder. As soon as you have stopped the machine, sieve the mixture, evenly, onto a tray lined with a non-stick mat, at approximately 1mm. Bake at 170C until it melts and shines. Remove from the oven, allow to cool until pliable. Using your fingers, pull and stretch the sugar into the desired shape. To serve Place some of the hazelnut crumbs on the plate and top with meadowsweet yoghurt mousse. Position the poached rhubarb batons over and around the mousse. Spoon some of the sweet cicely syrup around the dish. Gently sprinkle the rhubarb snow over the top and carefully place on a muscavado caramel strip. FOUR I 8