Build a Core Wardrobe In Today s Fabrics. By Linda Lee

Transcription

1 Build a Core Wardrobe In Today s Fabrics By Linda Lee

2 Wardrobing Concepts BASIC - Black is the forever basic and grounds every wardrobe. Choose another neutral in a lighter color such as soft grey or taupe. Hudson Top (modified) Quincy Pants Zigzag Shirt Mimosa Pants

3 Wardrobing Concepts KICK - Find your favorite color, the one that you can t live without, and use it for tops, one bottom piece and a scarf. Hudson Top eshrug Quincy Pants Whistles Shirt Mimosa Pants

4 Wardrobing Concepts PATTERN - Limit the number of pieces that have large motifs so you don t get tired of them. Plus they are too memorable to wear very often. Tone down a bold pattern with a second layer. Icon Shirt evest Icon Shirt Hudson Pants

5 Wardrobing Concepts Valencia Jacket Trio T-shirt Trio Pants TEXTURE - Look for interesting textures. Use lots of them and mix them freely. A boucle with multicolored yarns helps to mix and match. A stretch lace accessory piece adds interest without bulk. Hudson Top (modified) Trio T-shirt (modified) Trio Pants

6 More Concepts SPLURGE - Buy (or make) one fantastic coat, some really fun shoes, the trendiest jewelry, and an assortment of scarves. HudsonTop (modified) Ikina Pants (modified) Painted Coat by Holly Badgley

7 More Concepts VARIATIONS - Boil down your pattern selections to a few good designs. It s no fun to keep making muslins. Establish the fit, then edit and change the details according to the fashion whims of the season. Hudson Tops - 4 variations

8 The Core Wardrobe I can build a wardrobe using only 9 patterns.

9 More Concepts TIME EFFICIENCY - Buy your jeans, work-out clothes, underwear and sleepwear. Use your time to make clothes that you can show off. Buying jeans is like buying underwear. You have to try on a million styles, find the one that works, and then they have discontinued them by the time you are ready for your next pair.

10 Today s Fabrics & Fibers Certain fabrics we learned to count on are gone and new ones have come along. These are the fabrics that are dominant in fashion today. STRETCH - Almost any fiber is mixed with Lycra or Spandex today. We know knits stretch. But many woven fabrics, in all fiber blends, have stretch properties, too. There is nothing mysterious about sewing woven fabrics that have stretch. They sew up with ease - just pretend there is no stretch at all. Cats can move their ears in over 300 directions.

11 Learn About Knits KNITS - Knit fabrics rule the fashion world. It s time to get comfortable sewing them. Owning a serger may not be optional anymore. eshrug MixIt Tank Hudson Top Hudson Pants Stella Top Ann s Cardigan

12 Know Your Knits JERSEY/SINGLE KNIT Lengthwise ribs on the face and horizontal purl loops on the reverse. All cut edges curl. Many high-end knit garments utilize the curl as a design element, leaving the edges raw. To determine if the fabric curls, stretch the fabric crosswise, and see if the edges curl. The curl is always to the right side of the fabric. My favorite t-shirts to wear as second skin underlayers are made by Majestic.

13 Know Your Knits DOUBLE KNIT Lengthwise ribs on both sides look the same. Heavier than jersey knits. Edges do not curl. Since double knits have good body and shape retention, they make great skirts. And unlike many flimsy knits, they are easy to sew. Stella Top Six Sense Skirt

14 Know Your Knits INTERLOCK Fine ribs on both sides like a double knit. Slightly heavier and has less stretch than jersey knits. Edges do not curl. Interlock knits come in solids or prints. They are easier to sew than knits that curl. Alex Top

15 Know Your Knits RIB KNIT Prominent ribs on both sides. Because of their excellent stretch and recovery, they are used mostly for closely fitting garments and trims at hems, necks, and wrists. San Diego Jacket (modified) Tosca Dress

16 Know Your Knits PONTE KNIT - This is a new marketing term (not to be found in classic textile textbooks) to describe a particular texture of knit. This fairly stable knit has the feel of a double knit, but has a fine horizontal rib or a pebbled texture.

17 Know Your Knits VISCOSE - One of the three methods of producing rayon. Viscose knits are the new generation of knits - known for its soft hand, drapeability and absorbency. It is resistant to pilling. Available in endless weights, both solids and prints. Trio T-shirt Trio T-shirt (modified)

18 Know Your Knits FRENCH TERRY - Back in the fashion scene again (and not just for bathrobes!), this knit fabric has a traditional flat jersey texture on one side and a fine loop pile on the other side. Trio T-shirt (modified) Hudson Top (modified)

19 Know Your Knits STRETCH LACE - Lace is no longer just for dressy occasions. With lycra added, stretch laces with all sorts of novelty designs are worn casually and as everyday accessory pieces. Chico s Top Alex Top evest Trio T-shirt Trio Pants

20 Know Your Knits BAMBOO KNIT - Has a good/bad reputation. Some are soft and comfortable (and may pill), some are less comfortable to wear (and perform well). All are organically grown, and processed and dyed less eco-friendly. Trio T-shirt (modified)

21 Pretreating Knits Before Cutting Like all fabric, knit fabrics do need pretreating. If your knit is made of cotton, silk, linen, rayon/viscose, or polyester, you can either pre-shrink on the gentle cycle in the washer and dryer, or hand wash with a gentle laundry soap. Your choice will depend on the fabric and also how you plan to launder your garment. Wool knits will need to be either dry cleaned or steamed unless you purposely would like to felt your knit. Felted knit can be lovely. Be sure to experiment with a test sample so you are not unpleasantly surprised at the results! Purchase PreTreat Cut

22 The Best Thread for Knits Buy good quality polyester thread that is cross wound on the spool. You can tell if a thread is cross wound if you can see the thread forming diagonal patterns on the spool. Cross-wound thread comes off the spool smoothly and will allow the stitches to made more easily. Don t EVER be tempted to buy bargain thread! It will only bring you grief. Know Your Notions Buy 4 spools when you buy your fabric 1 for your sewing machine, 3 for your serger. Why polyester? Polyester thread has a slight give that keeps it from breaking when the knit stretches. Excellent brands to choose from include Mettler Metrosene Plus and Isacord.

23 Today s Fabrics & Fibers WOOL - Still one of the finest fibers to work with in any climate. CREPE - A general classification of fabrics that are characterized by a crinkle or crimped surface effect. Wool crepe is easy to sew, drapes well, and comes in a myriad of colors. Zigzag Shirt Whistles Shirt Mimosa Pants Hudson Top Quincy Pants

24 Today s Fabrics & Fibers TROPICAL WOOL - Lightweight summer suiting that is known for its cool comfort, crush resistance, and easy care (washes well and drapes well). The finest men s suits are tropical wool, worn year around in all climates. Requires some careful pressing. Since it is wrinkle resistant, it doesn t press easily, needing moisture, pressure and a clapper. Point Presser/Clapper Hudson Top (modified) Quincy Pants

25 Today s Fabrics & Fibers BOUCLE/TWEED - A woven or knit fabric with a looped or knitted surface due to the use of mixed textures of yarns. Due to the tendency to fray, it is best to make a simple design with few seams and fussy details. Look for a tweed, handwoven, or boucle that ties together all the colors that you like working with. Valencia Jacket Trio T-shirt Trio Pants

26 Learn about Linen Linen is a woven fabric created from the long fibers of the flax plant. Linen is available in different weights, textures, and pattern. It takes dye beautifully. Linen fibers wick moisture away, making it dry and cool and it s hypoallergenic. Pre-treat linen on the gentle cycle in the washer and dryer, hand wash with a gentle laundry soap, or dry clean. Your choice will depend on the fabric and also how you plan to care for your finished garment. Linen comes in a wide variety of wonderful colors and patterns.

27 Myths (and Truths!) About Wrinkles Linen is a classic fiber with a sometimes bad reputation. Woven Linen Stripe Yes, linen will wrinkle. No, it s not an impossible situation. First, if machine laundering use a gentle cycle and a gentle spin. Put your garment in the dryer for a few minutes to fluff it up. Remove and hang to finish drying. Second, press with lots of steam and a clear starch alternative, such as Mary Ellen s Best Press. Handkerchief-Weight Linen Third, relax and enjoy it. The Brits who have a love affair with linen call those inevitable crinkles Royal Wrinkles. Maggy London Plaid Linen

28 The Best Thread for Linen Silk Finish Cotton Know Your Notions 100% Cotton thread is compatible with fabrics made from fiber of plant origin, such as linen. 50wt is the most suitable. Most cotton threads are mercerized, a chemical process that increases the silk-like luster and creates a smoother surface. Buy high quality cotton thread such as Mettler, Gutermann or Aurifil. These are manufactured using long staple cotton which is finer and stronger than inexpensive thread and has fewer slubs and less lint. Do not be tempted to buy cheap thread! Mettler Silk Finish Cotton The texture of cotton thread emulates the properties of linen and melds into the fiber so stitches become an integral part of the fabric weave. Aurifil 50wt Mako Cotton

29 My Favorite Linen I like to wear linen pants practically all year around. I look for linen that is gutsy, weighty and drapey, and hopefully with that Flax ( brand of clothing that specializes in linen coordinates) rumpled washed look. The best linens are made in Europe, not China. Icon Shirt Ikina Pants (modified)

30 Know Your Silks All silks have some things in common: They are a continuous protein filament produced by the silkworm when constructing their cocoons. They are the most luxurious fiber. They are resilient and elastic, hold their shape and resist wrinkling. They are comfortable to wear, cool in the summer and warm in winter. Silk can be supple and drapey as well as stiff and bouffant. Some have a high luster, others have a nap. All dye and print well.

31 Know Your Silks Different types of silks have different characteristics. DOUPIONI - a cross-rib silk, woven with an uneven, irregular slub yarn. Fairly crisp. Used for tops and jackets. CREPE DE CHINE -a lightweight plain weave silk with a fine crepe finish. Used for dresses and shirts. CHARMEUSE - a lightweight silk with a smooth semi-lustrous satin face and a dull back. CHIFFON - a very lightweight, sheer, soft, plain weave with a dull but smooth finish. Its cousin is georgette which has a crepe finish.

32 Know Your Silks More silk types used to make garments. MATELASSE - a double or compound fabric with a quilted character or raised pattern. Used for jackets. SPUN SILK - a coarse, unevenly woven silk spun with short fibers. Sometimes called shantung, matka or silk noil. Used for jackets and casual wear. 4-PLY - ultra luxurious and drapey silk formed by a number of single yarns twisted together to make ply yarn. Also made in a lighter weight 3-ply. Dresses, jackets, and pants. JACQUARD - a term relating to a system of weaving on a special loom that produces woven designs in tapestries, brocades, damasks and other figured fabrics.

33 Pretreating Silks Before Cutting Like all fabric, silk fabrics can be pretreated. Surprising to some, silks can be machine washed. Use warm water and mild detergent. Hang to dry or dry in the dryer using a delicate setting. It is always a good idea to cut a 4 square of fabric and test the results. Some dyes, particularly reds and blacks, will bleed and some fabrics will fade, soften or lose their sheen depending on the origin and quality of the fabric and the weave. The more loosely woven, the more it will break down. Dry cleaning is always an option. Purchase PreTreat Cut

34 The Best Thread for Silks Buy good quality cotton thread that is cross wound on the spool. You can tell if a thread is cross wound if you can see the thread forming diagonal patterns on the spool. Cross-wound thread comes off the spool smoothly and will allow the stitches to be made more easily. Don t EVER be tempted to buy bargain thread! It will only bring you grief. Buy 4 spools when you buy your fabric 1 for your sewing machine, 3 for your serger. Why cotton? Cotton thread melds into the fibers of silk, making it less visible than polyester. Use 50/3 wt. for general sewing, 60/2 wt. for lightweight and sheer silks. Know Your Notions Mettler Silk Finish Cotton Excellent brands to choose from include Mettler Silk-finish Mercerized Cotton and Aurifil. Aurifil 50wt Mako Cotton

35 The Queen of Fibers! When I wear silk, I feel put together and refined - what better feeling is there. Silk garments travel well and rarely need to be pressed. Drapey silks hang skinny, so I feel more slender wearing them. And they move with elegance. If I wash the fabric first, then I can spot clean the garment without a white ring that grows. Valencia Jacket Mimosa Top Mimosa Pants

36 Crepe-Back Silk Satin When I wear one-seam Plaza pants made in crepe-back silk satin, I lose 10 pounds. Wear the satin side next to your skin for comfort. The matte finish on the outside is dressy enough for evening and basic enough for the office. One surface is smooth and lustrous, the other dull and crepy. Either side can be used.

37 Build a Core Wardrobe In Today s Fabrics By Linda Lee