Embrace. 3rd September - 1st October 2013

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1 Embrace

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3 Embrace 3rd September - 1st October 2013 Embrace brings together a collection of six textile artists to herald the beginning of autumn with a range of innovative and wearable designs. The practices range from digital, traditional hand weaving, hand painted or machine made and what they all have in common is a sensitive feel for fabric, texture and colour. Masako Ban James Donald Ekta Kaul Jane Keith NUNO Sheila Oakeshott Wallace#Sewell Left: Harriet Wallace-Jones & Emma Sewell in their London studio, 2014 Wallace#Sewell Front cover: Jane Keith, detail of hand painted wool scarves.

4 MASAKO BAN Born in Tokyo. After working for an architectural firm, Masako worked as graphic designer until She has spent time in London and in 2001, she began designing accessories. Masako is fascinated with industrial materials and techniques and specialises in using acrylic. Established acrylic in Tokyo, Her work has a strong graphic identity, is architectural, durable and beautifully made. The Scottish Gallery also has a range of acrylic jewellery alongside her acrylic scarves. Right: Maskao Banin her gallery shop, Tokyo, 2014

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7 MASAKO BAN Left: Emboss scarf, polyester 100% Fabric made in Kyoto and finished in Tokyo, Japan 55 Above: Long tie scarf, 90% rayon, 10% nylon Yarn material made in Italy, and knitted in Kyoto, Japan 50 each

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9 JAMES DONALD James Donald is an Edinburgh based designer, who trained at Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art, Dundee. James is behind the creative company PickOne. I am primarily a weaver using Scottish based materials including lamb s wool, Shetland yarn and other locally sourced fibres. All my woven work is woven by hand on a 32 shaft computerised loom before being finished, air dried and hand finished. This current collection of woven fabrics are based on a series of images generated craft hacking Through the same process of craft hacking I have designed a series of digitally printed scarves, backed with hand dyed silk, on a smart phone with the assistance of various apps. The initial stages of each design are always hand drawn before being manipulated using the smart phone apps, before being printed digitally. James Donald Left: James Donald in his Edinburgh studio, 2014

10 JAMES DONALD Digital scarves on wool twill, x 135 cms 85 each

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13 EKTA KAUL Ekta Kaul is a London based designer. She trained in Fashion at India s premier design school, the National Institute of Design and she also studied textiles at the Scottish College of Textiles, Galashiels. Ekta established her studio in 2008 after winning the Craft Council s prestigious business set-up award, Next Move. Ekta has won numberous awards for her work including Arts Council England and the British Council. At the heart of my work lies the love of bold colour and graphic pattern & the desire to explore traditional textile techniques in a contemporary context. My practice has two strands, namely, oneoff bespoke quilts which are conceptual & labour-intensive pieces; and small batch produced functional textiles which include handdyed & printed scarves in silks, wool & handwoven cashmere. My mother s collection of handwoven embroidered saris and phulkari pieces (counted thread hand embroidered textiles in geometric patterns) instilled an early love of embroidery and the handmade in me. I draw inspiration from handwriting, aerial photography and maps. I collect colours from nature, art and architecture. Often a flower, a painting or a detail in a building inspires new colour explorations. Ekta Kaul, London, 2014 Left: Ekta Kaul in her London studio, 2014

14 EKTA KAUL Dip dyed Cashmere Shawls, x 220 cms 280 each

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17 JANE KEITH Jane Keith is originally from Edinburgh and studied at Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art, Dundee where she currently teaches. She works from her studio in Balmerino, Fife. I am continuing to develop my cashmere scarves, which are a joy to create, the cashmere absorbs dye easily; printing and hand painting, each one are all unique. The print process and how the colour is applied to the cloth is a careful process; the dyes, background colour and order in which the pattern and colour is applied. Often I start off with white fabric and gradually build up the colour in layers. This adds depth and intensity to the pieces. All of the fabrics that I favour such as cashmere and linen are hand woven in local Scottish mills. Using the highest quality base cloth to work on, makes a huge difference to the way in which the fabric receives and conveys colour and the pattern applied. All of the printing is done in my studio in Balmerino. Left: Jane Keith in her studio at Balmerino, Fife, 2013

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19 JANE KEITH Detail of handpainted cashmere scarf 70 x 200 cms (approx) 280

20 NUNO NUNO Corporation was established in Tokyo in The Japanese word nuno means fabric. NUNO textiles are incredibly beautiful to look at and handle, but are also practical, having applications for both fashion and interior. Nuno s textiles frequently combine inherent properties of natural yarns with synthetic fibres as well as combining traditional techniques with the very latest sophisticated advances in technology. The fabrics are industrially produced; not handwoven or art pieces. Examples of NUNO fabrics, both designed by Jun ichi Arai and Reiko Sudo have been included in many international exhibitions and are held in the permanent collections of 25 major museums worldwide including The Victoria & Albert Museum, London, The Museum of Modern Art, New York and The National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo.

21 Wool Scarves x 200 cms (approx) 70 each

22 SHEILA OAKESHOTT Sheila Oakeshott is our senior weaver in this exhibition. She was born in 1927 and lives and works in Aberdeenshire. Each one of my scarves and shawls is hand woven on a counter balance four shaft loom which is over 100 years old. I began weaving in the 1950 s. During my post diploma year at Gray s School of Art Aberdeen, I was taught the value of colour by Kath Whyte and influenced by the simplicity of Ethel Mairets weaving. I design on the loom as the spirit moves me. Weaving for me is a real joy. Yoshi Yamamoto commissioned me to weave fabric for his Paris and Tokyo collections in The finished garments were included in the Victoria & Albert Museums Yamamoto exhibition in Sheila in her studio, weaving on her counter balance four shaft loom, Aberdeenshire, 2014

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25 SHEILA OAKESHOTT Details of handwoven scarves and shawls, 2014 Scarves, cms x length by cms width 90 each Shawls, cms length x cms width, each

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27 WALLACE#SEWELL Wallace#Sewell is a highly individual woven textile design studio, established by Harriet Wallace-Jones and Emma Sewell, after graduating from the Royal College of Art in The studio s motivation is to design innovative woven fabrics exploiting industrial techniques, the collaboration thriving on a vibrant exchange of ideas from the dual perspectives of creating textiles for fashion and furnishings. Work is distinguished by a positive and confident use of colour and an intelligent use of yarn properties and standard weave structures, producing exclusive fabrics of discerning appeal. The studio works closely with Mitchell Interflex a mill in Lancashire, which weaves the larger pieces and batch production. The studio also works closely with a finishers in Huddersfield W.T. Johnson & Sons Who draw their water from their own borehole in pursuit of the softest and purest water, perfect for textile finishing. Harriet Wallace-Jones & Emma Sewell in their London studio, 2014 Wallace#Sewell

28 Wallace#Sewell Diffusion Scarfs, x 165 cms 100% lambswool 42 each

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