8Cirl Bunting Blue Rock Thrush Eleonora s Falcon NORTH MALLORCA. Birding in. DISCOVER the island's rich history, culture and amazing landscapes

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1 Birding in DISCOVER the island's rich history, culture and amazing landscapes INSIDE: BRILLIANT BIRDING HOTSPOTS IN LOCATIONS ALL THE FAMILY WILL ENJOY! Panu Ruangjan / Alamy FEATURING: Albufera Son Real S Albufereta Tramuntana MUST SEE BIRDS & WHERE TO FIND THEM 8Cirl Bunting Blue Rock Thrush Eleonora s Falcon Hoopoe Black Vulture Black-winged Stilt Balearic Warbler Stone-curlew

2 WELCOME FOR A BIRDER with a family, North Mallorca has it all great birds, including near-endemics, rare raptors, colourful resident birds, and passage migrants. Plus, there s affordable accommodation, cheap flights plus great beaches and glorious weather! 10 MUSTS WHEN VISITING SAMPLE THE LOCAL WINE The reserve at Mortitx is set amid 1 vineyards take a tour of one to refresh yourself after birding TRY THE LOCAL CUISINE Mallorca s great restaurants include 2 El Jardin, in Alcudia it s very popular, though, so book early VISIT LLUC MONASTERY The most important pilgrimage 3 site on Mallorca, in the Tramuntana also great for birds RIDE THE FERROCARRIL DE SOLLER This narrow-gauge 4 railway runs from Palma to Soller, near the north-west coast SEE A BLACK VULTURE Mallorca has the only European 5 island population of this immense raptor SEE ALCUDIA S OLD TOWN This, Mallorca s historic capital, 6 contains Roman and medieval remains, markets and shops VISIT AN ISLAND Dragonera and Cabrera are great for 7 migrants passing through take a closer look FIND A WOODCHAT SHRIKE The badius subspecies of this 8 smart little predator is found around orchards and parkland TAKE A BOAT TRIP This is the best way to see Eleonora s 9 Falcon colonies, on Dragonera, Cabrera, or at Cap de Formentor VISIT DEIA This pretty, unspoiled village was once the home 10 of the writer Robert Graves, and boasts great views Albufera nature trail Son Real ancient ruins S Albufereta nature reserve BRILLIANT Golden Oriole BIRDING Sightings of the Balearic Warbler and other great birds could reward a visit to this reserve SON REAL This might be Mallorca s rising star where reserves are concerned, a mixture of arable farmland, heather and rosemary heath, woodland, and undeveloped coastline that has already recorded great birds, but also has the potential for many more to be discovered, as more and more birders use it. Situated south of C an Picafort, just off the road to Arta, it is well-known as a site for warblers, with Sardinian and Dartford Warblers, both to be found in the scrubby areas close to the coast. Their close relative, the Balearic Warbler, is the real prize, though, and although they can be very shy and skulking, especially as the summer wears on, good numbers are present, with the area around the viewing tower particularly productive. Getting familiar with their song and calls is a must to give yourself the best chance of finding them, and they ve been known to respond well to pishing. Audouin s Gull is another target here, along the shore, where small numbers of Kentish Plovers can also be found in spring and summer. The resident species include Stone-curlew, Thekla Lark and Hoopoe in the arable land, supplemented by Woodchat Shrike, Spotted Flycatcher, Wheatears, pipits (including Tawny) and a variety of passage migrants in spring, while in winter finch flocks arrive (and keep an eye out for Hawfinches), along with Song Thrushes. Above all, this is a rewarding but easy site to birdwatch at, close to the resort of C an Picafort. The paths are accessible and over easy terrain, and you can get satisfyingly close to the target species. An early start is a good idea, as the beach in particular can get busy later in the day. WORDS: ANDY SIMPSON on your doorstep GETTING THERE The 445/446 bus services run past the reserve, but it is also within easy walking or cycling reach of C an Picafort itself. There is a car park on site, at the visitor centre and toilets. VITAL INFORMATION Opening times are: April-September, 10am-7pm; October-March: 10am-5pm; reception is open from 10am-4pm; exhibitions open from 10am-5pm Tel: websites: enjoymallorca.com/alcudia mallorcabirdwatching.com/sonreal sonreal@balears-sostenible.com é MED SPECIALIST Audouin s Gull is a beautiful bird, largely restricted to the Mediterranean and especially its islands ê GREAT VIEWS You ll be able to spot many beautiful birds from the viewing platform Alamy WHY NOT ALSO TRY Son Real has a preserved traditional Mallorcan farmhouse, containing exhibitions on the history and culture of the island make sure you make a visit while you re there 2 Birding in North Mallorca

3 S ALBUFERETA Extending either side of the coast road, this reserve includes a beach area, on which both Kentish and Little Ringed Plovers breed, and a much larger area of lagoons (both fresh and saltwater), plus scrub and pine woodland. Black-winged Stilts are among the breeding birds on the lagoons, along with Purple Gallinule, while the hirundines and swifts that are numerous here attract the attentions of Eleonora s Falcons, particularly early in the day. Cetti s Warblers breed, and the saline lakes have even recorded Greater Flamingo. It s a particularly good site to search during migration periods, with a wide range of passerines possible, including those Blue-headed Wagtails (Yellow Wagtails of the flava race) again, other Yellow Wagtails, Redstarts, both Spotted and Pied Flycatchers, Nightingales and both Moustached and Subalpine Warblers. Honey Buzzards and Montagu s Harriers pass through on migration, and Redfooted Falcon has also been recorded here. The fields and orchards, and any overhead power or telephone lines, are worth checking for the likes of Bee-eater, Serin, Woodchat Shrike, Crossbill, Corn Bunting, Hoopoe, Golden Oriole and Whinchat. GETTING THERE From Puerto Pollensa or Alcudia, catch one of the TIB buses (352/353 ) which run frequently between Puerto Pollensa and Can Piquafort. The stop is a short walk from the reserve, outside the kite and surf shop. VITAL INFORMATION Access is available at all times, but be careful to respect private property, as the reserve includes a number of farms and other buildings. ê ALBUFERA This viewing screen allows to get as close as possible to the birds WHY NOT ALSO TRY Birdwatching the reserve by bike can bring great results although smaller than Albufera, it s still large enough, so it s a great way of getting around quickly without disturbing birds WHY NOT ALSO TRY Albufera can get very busy, with a consequent disturbance to the birds, so try to visit as early or late in the day as possible éé WOODCHAT Mallorca s Woodchat Shrike are of the Balearic subspecies, badius é WARM WELCOME The visitors centre offers much for the birdwatcher, including trails ê SQUACCO HERON Arguably Europe s most beautiful heron, the Squacco is a delight ALBUFERA Let s start with the one Mallorcan reserve that you ve probably already heard of Parc Natural s Albufera, to give it its full name. Situated just south of Alcudia, it s the island s largest wetland reserve, and probably the largest on any Mediterranean island. There s a visitor centre with toilets, marked trails for birders, cyclists and walkers, and several hides, making it particularly user-friendly for birdwatchers with families in tow, or anyone dropping in for a day s birding as part of a more general holiday. The habitats include saltmarsh, reedbeds, freshwater lagoons and pools, plus conifer woodland and tamarisk groves, and these bring the corresponding variety of species that you d expect. In spring and autumn, a wide range of waders pass through, and it s also a good place to look for herons, with Purple, Night and Squacco all present. Woodchat Shrikes (of the western Mediterranean badius race) perch atop bushes and scrub on the lookout for prey, while common warblers include Moustached and Cetti s. Nightingales should also be heard in spring and summer, and check every Yellow Wagtail you see the Blue-headed (flava) race is regular here. GETTING THERE If you re staying in Puerto Pollensa or Alcudia, you can use the TIB buses (352/353) that run frequently between Puerto Pollensa and Can Piquafort. These stop at Playa Muro, just outside the reserve s entrance. If you re driving, there is a very small car park, but also parking in front of the supermarket across the road. VITAL INFORMATION Opening times are: 1 October 31 March, from 9am to 5pm; 1st April 30th September, 9am-6pm. Tel: / Website: enjoymallorca.com/portdepollenca parc.albufera@wanadoo.es Entrance: Free, but pick up a permit at the reception area. 8 BIRDS TO FIND in Mallorca Emberiza cirlus LENGTH: 6.25ins (16cm) WINGSPAN: ins (22-26cm) FOOD: Various seeds, almost all taken from the ground. Grasshoppers can be important in summer. BREEDING: Lays 3-4 eggs in a nest well hidden low in a bush or creeper. Orchards and vineyards are good places to look for this attractive bunting in its strongholds around the Mediterranean it is particularly fond of sunlit slopes. It can crop up in urban and suburban areas, though, as long as its main habitat requirement open country with some dense cover is met. Its song, a short, metallic trill, lacks the longer end note of a Yellowhammer s song, while the flight call is a short, high, soft ssip, often frustratingly difficult to place. The Albufera Reserve is a great place to find them, but the species is resident and widespread in the right habitat. The Arta Peninsula is a hotspot for them, mainly in arable fields, while the Cuber Reservoir is another good spot to find them. Finally, the Boquer Valley offers great opportunities scan the tops of bushes and shrubs they will often be perched on these (Stonechats are the other species that typically does this, here). Mainly a bird of southern Europe, although it breeds in northern France right up to the Channel coast. In the UK, coastal hedges and fields in south Devon (and a few Cornish sites) are the only place you ll find it numbers are low, although the RSPB has a project aimed at boosting them. Eight target species to discover in this birding paradise WORDS: MATT MERRITT OFFERS opportunities to see near-endemic species, to get great views of birds hard to find elsewhere, and to get close up to some more familiar species. Here are eight species to look for on the island, elsewhere in the Mediterranean, and even closer to home CIRL BUNTING It was first identified by the ornithologist George Montagu (of harrier fame) near the Devon town of Kingsbridge still the bird s UK stronghold, its range having expanded into southern England, before the recent range contraction Cavall Bernat Male has distinctive black eyestripe and bib, yellow cheeks and green breast Female is less strongly marked, with flat crown, and striped face Males have olive rump (compare with Yellowhammer s rusty rump), females duller Males have distinctive rusty brown area on wings and tertials Female has chestnut area on shoulders Larger-billed but shorter-tailed than the Yellowhammer Male Cirl Bunting For many more bird sites and bird information in the area you can visit mallorcabirdwatching.com 4 Birding in North Mallorca birdwatching.co.uk 5

4 BLUE ROCK THRUSH Monticola solitarius LENGTH 8ins (20cm) WINGSPAN ins (35-40cm) FOOD: Insects and small lizards, plus a few berries. BREEDING: Lays 4-5 eggs in a nest made in a hole in a rock, wall, or building. If seen in silhouette, or at long distance, this gorgeous thrush can escape notice surprisingly easily. But check every thrush or Starling-sized bird in likely areas, because a closer look will reveal the beautiful blue tones that give it its name. Its song, sometimes delivered in a swooping songflight, but perhaps more often from a high, rocky perch, is similar to the Blackbird s and the Mistle Thrush s, but with simpler, and shorter, phrases. Calls include a high peep and a harsher tchuk tchuk. Male Blue Rock Thrush The Blue Rock Thrush is actually a chat, or Old World flycatcher, rather than a Turdus thrush. It is found across Europe and Asia, as far east as Japan and breeds in rock habitats Male can appear black at distance in good light, shows intense, smoky blue Female has bluish upperparts (fading to brown in autumn), but brown, barred underparts Long wings and tail, and strong, easy flight style Spends long periods stationary on sunlit boulders or cliff ledges Juveniles are similar to females in appearance Long, dark bill is distinctive This resident breeder lives in mountainous regions, so is best looked for at specific sites (if you want to avoid long walks or difficult climbs!). A few pairs can be found in the Boquer Valley, while the Formentor Peninsula is also a great place to look for them. The Parc Natural de Llevant, on the Arta Peninsula, is another likely spot for them. Nowhere are numbers high, but it is a relatively widespread bird, so check prominent rocky outcrops, cliffs and old buildings. In warm, rocky areas throughout southern Europe its close relative, the Rock Thrush, is much more a bird of high meadows. Resident in many areas, while in others it disperses to warmer parts in winter. Recent research has shown that Eleonora s Falcons even hold live prey captive, by plucking out the tail and flight feathers of the unfortunate birds before wedging them in stone crevices this keeps the prey fresh for a day or two ELEONORA S FALCON longer Falco eleonorae LENGTH ins (36-42cm) WINGSPAN 34-41ins (87-104cm) FOOD: Outside the breeding season, insects of all sorts, caught on the wing, plus a few beetles and grasshoppers taken on the ground. In the breeding season, smaller birds of all sorts, caught on the wing, often over the sea as they migrate. BREEDING: A colonial breeder, in groups of pairs. Two or three eggs are laid by each, on a cliff ledge, and the young fly after days. Rocky coasts are the place to look for one of Europe s rarest raptors. Here they time their own breeding season for late summer and early autumn, so that they can feed their young on the glut of prey provided by exhausted and often inexperienced small passerine migrants. Several can sometimes be seen hunting together (although not co-operatively, as such). They fly into the wind, looking for incoming prey, before making the kill with a sharp stoop. Dawn is a particularly good time to look for them, as they target night-flying migrants. Arriving late in April, and staying until early November, there are several hundred pairs breeding on Mallorca. Most are on the west coast, and there are large colonies on Cabrera, Dragonera, Cap Formentor and Cala Sant Vincenc check these from August onwards. Prior to the breeding season, look for it hawking for insects at Albufera Reserve or over nearby open forest areas and at Son Bosc. Boat trips are available to help you get the best views of these sites, and could also bring the added bonus of a Balearic Shearwater. This superb raptor can also be seen in the Boquer Valley and at Cases Velles, while there are also opportunities to stop on the road between Puerto Pollensa and Cap Formentor. Outside the Balearics, not in many places at all! The Canary Islands, Sardinia and islands off Italy, islands in the Adriatic and Aegean, and on Cyprus. In late autumn, they migrate to the Red Sea, then Madagascar. Eleonora s Falcon Rakish, Hobby-like silhouette, but is considerably larger than the commoner raptor Adults have striking white neck patch and dark moustache Underparts are a rusty buff colour Longer-winged and tailed than Peregrine and Hobby Flight is acrobatic and dashing, and shows frequent changes of speed Dark-morph birds (all sooty brown and black) occur, too Dragonera KLAUS BJERRE/Nature Photographers Ltd Casa at Boquer To find places to eat and stay next to a beautiful cala visit enjoymallorca.com/ CalaSantVicenc Take a boat trip to see these falcons on the island of Cabrera. Visit enjoymallorca.com/ cabrera KLAUS BJERRE/Nature Photographers Ltd 6 Birding in North Mallorca birdwatching.co.uk 7

5 Hoopoe Puig Nassi i Son Poc Visit the centre for bird tourism at La Gola EnjoyMallorca.com/ HOOPOE birdwatching from the north of Mallorca Upupa epops LENGTH ins (26-28cm) WINGSPAN ins (44-48cm) FOOD: Insects including beetles, caterpillars and grubs, small frogs and lizards. BREEDING: Nests in holes in trees and walls, laying 7-8 eggs in May and June. Both the English and the scientific name of this species are onomatopoeic, imitating the soft, but resonant poo poo poo call, often delivered from a bare branch in a tree, or from a rooftop or similar perch. For what is, on the face of it, a highly distinctive bird, they can be surprisingly difficult to spot on the ground, especially as they re often seen under trees, in dappled sunlight. They re fond of sunbathing (and also dust and sand baths), so once you have first seen them, there can be great opportunities to observe them at length. Hoopoes are resident breeders on the island, and are abundant in most parts, especially scrubby areas and parkland. In Puerto Pollensa it can be found in the farmland at the bottom of the Boquer Valley, and also at the side of the road next to the Pine Walk. Most of mainland Europe, except for the highest areas. In Britain, up to 100 birds turn up every year, usually during spring migration, and usually in the south, although it can be found in any suitable habitat this can include gardens, especially, historically, vicars gardens! BLACK VULTURE Aegypius monachus LENGTH 39-43ins ( cm) WINGSPAN up to 9ft (2.8m) FOOD: Carrion of all sorts at carcasses, they can even dominate Griffon Vultures and take the choice parts. BREEDING: Makes a bulky nest of sticks in a tree and (very rarely) on cliffs. A single egg is laid. Unlike most Old World vultures, which breed in colonies, Black Vultures do so only in looser groups, and are also less likely to be sociable away from the nest. Although in some areas they occur alongside the Griffon Vulture, with which they can be confused at distance, they are far less of a bird of the mountains than the commoner species. They are the dominant raptors throughout their range, even bullying other large vultures and eagles at kills, and on rare occasions may even take live prey. Mallorca s most important and sought-after breeding bird is only found in the Serra de Tramuntana. Nearly extinct on the island in the early 1980s, a conservation project was started in 1983, with the help of the regional government of the Balearic Islands. The first breeding success was in 1986, and there are now more than 130 birds, after a record breeding year in They nest in the north of the Tramuntana Mountains, but also feed in places around the Boquer Valley. The best sites to look for them are at Mortitx, the monastery at Lluc (where there s a visitor centre for the Tramuntana), the Cuber Reservoir, and Castell Del Rei, on the Ternelles estate, near Pollença. Small numbers in the Balkans and Asia Minor, and also found in the Extremadura region of mainland Spain, but otherwise you would be best to travel to central Asia. Always appears dark even the wings show only very subtle contrasts Largest of its family in Europe, although some overlap with larger individual Griffon Vultures Found mainly in hilly, wooded or partiallywooded areas Soars in wide circles on flat wings (Griffon Vultures soar on raised wings) Perches more horizontally and less upright than Griffon Vultures Almost silent, but display flights include pairs tumbling with feet interlocked Black Vulture Boquer WILDLIFE GmbH / Alamy Learn more at enjoymallorca.com/ theserrade tramuntanamountains Mistle Thrush sized, with a large crest Orange-red head and breast and black-and-white wings unlike any other species Crest raised when excited, in flight (on occasion), and immediately after bird lands Flight is erratic, bounding, and almost butterfly-like Bill long, slightly downcurved Spends a lot of time on ground, shuffling along after prey Hoopoes have particularly strong head muscles, which allow them to open their bill while they re probing into the earth this adaptation is particularly valuable given they live in fairly dry areas Black Vultures are also known as Monk Vultures (a reference to their bald head and ruff of neck feathers), or Cinereous Vultures, often to avoid confusion with the North American Black Vulture PAUL STERRY/Nature Photographers 8 Birding in North Mallorca birdwatching.co.uk 9

6 Learn more about where to visit and what to see in Alcudia by visiting enjoymallorca.com/alcudia The Balearic Warbler is closely related to Marmora s Warbler, another island species found mainly in Corsica and Sardinia Son Real hide Son Real Son Real Black-winged Stilt BLACK-WINGED STILT Himantopus himantopus LENGTH ins (35-40cm) WINGSPAN 27.5ins (70cm) FOOD: Small aquatic invertebrates, taken from both salt and fresh water. BREEDING: Nests in a scrape on mud next to water typically raises four chicks, which fly at 30 days. It s pretty hard to confuse a Black-winged Stilt with anything else, even at long range. If the pied plumage isn t enough of a giveaway, then the extraordinarily long legs, in relation to its overall size, will clinch the identification. It s generally found in coastal habitats, although it will use freshwater lagoons just inland as well as saltwater and brackish pools. Calls include a kek that sounds rather like a Coot, and harsher, more varied calls, not unlike terns calls. Most migrate south to Africa in the winter, but a few remain close to their Mediterranean breeding grounds. The saltpans at Albufera are undoubtedly the best spot for good, extended views of this extraordinary bird, but, as is the case for many waders, it depends on food availability and weather conditions. Widespread but relatively thinly scattered in southern Europe and parts of western and northern France. Small numbers turn up in Britain each year, with several recent successful nesting attempts in Kent and Sussex, perhaps heralding a colonisation. There are up to seven subspecies of Black-winged Stilt, including the Hawaiian Stilt, the archipelago s only breeding wader. Some authorities recognise some of these subspecies as up to five distinct full species Long straight bill, unlike Avocet s upturned bill Some black on head in summer, whiter in winter Black (actually green-black) wings, white elsewhere, with long white V up back Slender, elegant build Often wades belly-deep in search of food Very long, bright red-pink legs Albufera Salt Marsh Ian Butler Bird / Alamy BALEARIC WARBLER Sylvia balearica LENGTH 5-5.5ins (13-14cm) WINGSPAN ins (25-30cm) FOOD: Small insects and spiders, taken from foliage close to the ground. BREEDING: Makes a nest of moss and grass, deep in a small bush typically lays five eggs. This is the Balearic Islands only endemic full species, a close relative of the Marmora s Warbler and the Dartford Warbler, which has actually supplanted it on the smaller island of Menorca. Mallorca, then, is the best place to find this attractive little bird. As with most members of this family, sound can be the key to finding it. Its song is a rather grating warble, while its call is a nasal, slightly wheezy tsrek. Coastal scrub is a preferred habitat for this bird, but they can also be found in sparsely vegetated rocky, scrubby areas. Wherever you hope to find them, though, you need to be on the lookout for an all-grey version of the slightly more familiar Dartford Warbler. A resident breeding species, it can be abundant in the right habitat. Hotspots where you re likely to see them include Son Real, just south of C an Picafort on the Alcudia to Arta road. The Arta Peninsula is also worth checking out thoroughly wherever you look, you need patience. Found only in the Balearic Islands, and in Menorca it has been ousted by the Dartford Warbler. Learn about and experience the culture of Mallorca and its many museums and churches at enjoymallorca.com Pale grey underneath, and darker, blue-grey above Male has pale throat patch, often conspicuous Orange bill, orange-brown legs, and red eye ring Long tail and relatively slight build Peaked crown, like most Sylvia warblers Very skulking habits usually hides deep in bushes and scrub Balearic Warbler age fotostock / Alamy 10 Birding in North Mallorca birdwatching.co.uk 11

7 Stone-curlew ROGER TIDMAN/Nature Photographers Ltd You can see some some of the spectacular scenery this lovely island has to offer at enjoymallorca.com/ stunningviews STONE-CURLEW Burhinus oedicnemus LENGTH 15-17ins (40-44cm) WINGSPAN 31-33ins (77-85cm) FOOD: Large insects, picked from the ground, plus a few small invertebrates, reptiles and amphibians. BREEDING: Nests in a shallow scoop in the soil; two chicks fly when days old. The name thick-knee comes from an 18th Century name for the bird Thick-kneed Bustard. In southern Africa, stone-curlew species were also known by another name, dikkops Found on dry farmland, heaths and grassland, this strange-looking, stocky wader is a member of the thick-knee family, which all share its goggle-eyed appearance. In daylight, it will often crouch or stand under trees or other cover, becoming more active around dawn and dusk. Its wailing, whistling calls can resemble those of the Curlew and the Oystercatcher, and it is often heard before it s seen. Son Real, a nature reserve with a visitor centre and bird hide just south of Alcudia this site is also great for a variety of warblers, plus Crossbills and Cirl Buntings. A resident breeding species, it is relatively common in dry arable areas on the island, but can also be found at wetland sites such as Albufera and s Albufereta Natural Park. Keep an eye out in any areas of dry arable land scan fields carefully as Stone-curlews can be astonishingly well camouflaged against the earth. Mainly a bird of southern Europe and the Near East, with birds from further north wintering near the Mediterranean and in Africa. In Britain, small numbers (350 pairs) breed in East Anglia (especially the Breckland), and on Salisbury Plain. Large yellow eye and yellow on bill visible even at fairly long range Conservation efforts have resulted in a small White belly, streaked upperparts increase in the population, but it remains Broad white stripe from forehead, passes under eye rare. It is a summer visitor in the UK, from White band across closed wing March to October. Head for Weeting Heath in In flight, long wings with black trailing edge, and white spots near tip Norfolk where the Norfolk Wildlife Trust Steady, regular walk, but tilts forward when running has viewing facilities. Son Real s Albufereta Natural Park s Albufereta Natural Park SERRA DE TRAMUNTANA AND THE COAST The north coast of Mallorca offers some of the best birding you will enjoy on the island THE TRAMUNTANA STRETCHES along the north coast of Mallorca, a range of limestone mountains reaching 4,700 feet (1,432m) at their highest point. They re a world away from the beach resort image of Mallorca that you might have, and they form a vast, unspoiled area the largest natural park on the island in which you can make your own birdwatching discoveries, as well as exploring the island s historical, cultural and scenic riches. Their height, steepness and relative remoteness makes them a refuge for some of Mallorca s most internationally important and iconic species, including the Black Vulture. CAP DE FORMENTOR This is an easy spot to visit if you re staying in Alcudia, Puerto Pollensa, or the old town of Pollença. Its rocky landscape makes it home to mountain birds such as Blue Rock Thrush, Balearic Warbler and Booted Eagle, and it s also a great vantage point for seawatching, with Balearic and Cory s Shearwaters passing by. From early summer onwards, though, the species that most birders want to see here WORDS: ANDY SIMPSON Life on white / Alamy is Eleonora s Falcon. A large colony nests on the cliffs below the lighthouse in late summer, and while they can be seen from above, the most spectacular views can be had from a boat trip. The tower at Albercutx, a little further down the coast, is another fine viewpoint for these birds, as well as other raptors such as Honey Buzzards migrating through the island in spring and autumn. BOQUER VALLEY Right on the edge of Puerto Pollensa, the Boquer Valley is often a very good spot to find newlyarrived migrants. The car park is just off the roundabout on the road to Formentor, and to the left of the path leading from the car park are olive groves and an almond orchard frequently visited by Redstarts, flycatchers and a variety of warblers, especially during migration. Further on, near the pines on the left, look for Cirl Buntings and Wrynecks. Next are gates to a private estate access is allowed, but do not linger on the private property. Beyond them, follow testing but not difficult mountain paths towards the sea, keeping an eye out for Booted Eagles, Black and Griffon Vultures, Peregrines and Ravens, while Blue Rock Thrushes use the many prominent ledges and boulders as perches. éé BIRDS Above: Booted Eagle, Below: Black Vulture é A WORLD APART The scenery of the north is quite different from the beach resort image many have of Mallorca ê FORMETNOR Viewing tower at the spectacular Cap de Formentor Juanvi Carrasco / Alamy 12 Birding in North Mallorca birdwatching.co.uk 13

8 Eleonora s Falcon is a possibility here, too, as well as the likes of Golden Oriole in summer. You can easily bird most of the valley in around three hours, walking at an easy pace. TERNELLES VALLEY On the road to Soller, just outside Pollença, this reserve is made up of a mountain pathway giving access to sea cliffs and the Castell Del Rei. It s an excellent area to watch during migration periods, with Montagu s Harrier, Hobby, Honey Buzzard and migrating birds including Montagu s Harrier, Hobby and Honey Buzzard all passing through, while Pallid Swift, Crag Martin, Balearic Warbler and Sardinian Warbler should also be among your targets. In winter, Raven, Firecrest, Brambling and Hawfinch are all possible here. Access is by permit only, available from the tourist office in Pollença, and there are no facilities the paths are also harder than some, so take appropriate clothing and plenty of water. MORTITX This reserve, south of Pollença, sits among vineyards there s a wide and easy public footpath to the reserve, through woodland, with good views of the mountains throughout, and a detailed map at the entrance to the reserve proper. All those Mallorca montane specials Black Vulture, Griffon Vulture, Booted Eagle and Blue Rock Thrush are present, and in summer, it s a good site at which to find Wrynecks. The path leads to the Ses Basses viewpoint, looking out over steep sea cliffs, allowing you to do some seawatching, while at all times you should be on the lookout for the recently reintroduced Bonelli s Eagle please report any sightings of these. LLUC MONASTERY Heading along the road from Pollença to Soller, look for the sign to this historic site, which is the main centre for starting walking or birding tours of the mountains. There s a bar, an excellent restaurant, and tourist accommodation available All those Mallorca montane specials, Black Vulture, in the former monks cells. Firecrests and Wrynecks are possibilities from the car park, plus Nightingales, while Black and Griffon Vultures and Booted Eagles should be easily found, soaring above. Buses run to the monastery from Port Alcudia once a day, leaving at 9am and returning at 5pm (but check the timetable for changes). There s also a botanical garden (entrance free). CUBER RESERVOIR On the road from Pollença to Soller, this reservoir has ample car parking and well-marked footpaths (although no toilets), and the birding starts pretty much immediately that you ve arrived. Black and Griffon Vultures can be seen overhead, plus Booted Eagles and Eleonora s Falcons, and Ospreys are always a possibility too. Cirl Buntings and Blue Rock Thrushes are widespread here, and it s a good place to look for the cryptically patterned Wryneck, foraging for ants. Spectacled and Subalpine Warblers are also present, and migrants such as Redstarts, Wheatears and wagtails of all sorts pass through on migration. éé SA GUBIA There are many great places to explore in north Mallorca é BARRANC DE BINIARAIX One of the most spectacular walking routes in the Mallorcan mountains ê SELVA An attractive village set against the backdrop of the Serra de Tramuntana range êê S ESTACA VALLDEMOSSA Another hidden gem, be it bird or village, is always just around the corner êêê CHILL OUT Enjoy the view, enjoy the birds, and relax in style in the lovely Mediterranean sunshine Griffon Vulture Booted Eagle and Blue Rock Thrush are present... and look for Wrynecks FACTFILE WHERE TO STAY Puerto Pollensa: La Gola reserve is right in the town of Puerto Pollensa you can easily walk around its woodland, scrub and lake each day in search of birds, including a variety of herons. Pollença: A few miles west, has a more traditional feel, and is small enough to walk around in a morning. Hotels include the five-star Son Brull, one of Mallorca s best. Soller: Just inland from the north-west coast. Visit the Jardin Botanic and the Museu Balear de Ciencies, a natural science museum, and the striking Esglesia de Sant Bartomeu. Alcudia: Retains its medieval walls, narrow, cobbled streets, many historic buildings. GETTING AROUND Public transport is very cheap. The Airport Bus runs to Palma every 15 minutes. If you are not staying in the city or the port, get off the bus at the Plaza d Espanya, go down the steps past the train departures to the bus station, used by the red and yellow TIB buses. The 340 bus to Puerto Pollensa takes just over an hour and costs only 6. It usually leaves from bay 14. OTHER THINGS TO TRY Visit Deia: This idyllic village was the home of Robert Graves, poet and author of I Claudius. The views are wonderful, and you can walk down to Cala Deia, a small shingle beach in an attractive cove. It boasts two restaurants (open only in the summer season), with fresh fish as their speciality. There are plenty of walking trails in the hills above the village. Walking: Spring and autumn are ideal times for walkers, although summer walks include some along the Boquer Valley. There s a good walk over the mountains to Cala Vincent, with fantastic views of Cala Carbo you ll find a couple of lovely bars by the water s edge serving food. Another great walk starts just off the Formentor Road at Casa Velles. Park on the left and walk through the woods on the opposite side to Cala Murta, a lovely quiet cove. Close by, walk from the Formentor road to the tower of Albercutx. Park at the first mirador, and the road to the tower is opposite on the right. There are spectacular views of Puerto Pollensa and Alcudia in the distance. Watersports: Scuba diving is popular around Puerto Pollensa. Also very popular in the harbour is kiteboarding. There is a kite and surf school halfway between Puerto Pollensa and Alcudia which has a large range of equipment and is located directly opposite the beach where most of these sports takes place. At the harbour, as well as jet skis, there are yachts and catamarans, all of which can be hired and enjoyed. Cycling: Mallorca is a favourite destination for both leisure and professional cyclists, but you can just as easily, simply use a bike as a means to explore the island. More ambitious cyclists go to Cap Formentor, a very demanding route. There is a small café at the first mirador, frequently used for its spectacular views. There are numerous rental shops in the ports, but prices vary, so shop around. Eat and drink local: North Mallorca has excellent restaurants, bars and vineyards, so make sure you take the chance to sample the local cuisine, which not surprisingly features seafood heavily. Restaurant Jardin, in Alcudia, has an international reputation, and chef-owner Macarena De Castro is the proud possessor of a Michelin star, so it is certainly worth a visit! Website: enjoymallorca.com/destinations BOCQUER CAP DU PORT DE SA FORMENTOR POLLENÇA CALOBRA VINYES MORTITX ALCUDIA TRAMUNTANA SOLLER DEIA VALLDEMOSSA PALMA LLUC 14 Birding in North Mallorca birdwatching.co.uk 15

9 We search - You relax - Let us do all the work Contact us at properties@enjoymallorca.com Phone / infomallorca.net the official tourist information website of Mallorca e Tramuntana Beaches Handicrafts