Conquering the stretchy demon fabric. E-Format by Mandah Zenkaikon 2016 Do not redistribute

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1 Conquering the stretchy demon fabric E-Format by Mandah Zenkaikon 2016 Do not redistribute

2 ABOUT THE PANELIST Like her Facebook Tumblr Instagram Twitter Mandah is a multitalented artist. Creating illustrations, costumes and SFX looks. As well as being an active performing artist. Outside of the convention her work can be found in indie films, community theater and on numerous cosplayers throughout the world. She is both a commissioned based artist as well contract. Currently she works for Abigail Mentzer s dancewear company. She has been a seamstress for nearly 8 years creating costumes. Her specialty is working with spandex and creating superhero outfits.

3 TOOLS THAT WILL BE YOUR BEST FRIENDS!

4 SELECTING FABRIC ALWAYS ORDER SWATCHES BEFOREHAND! 2way Stretch Great for sewing bodysuits and superhero leotards. Be sure to check the grain. Sewing in the wrong direction will result in a tight disaster. 4way Stretch Great for pants, tops, boot covers, gloves and other accessories. Faux Fabrics Pleather and Stretch Vinyl. Top Fabrics for Suits Miliskin Matte/Shiny JUMBO Spandex (Captain American) Cotton Lycra Powernet Mesh (Sweat Absorption) Wetlook Pleather Vinyl 2way (Latex look) Metallic (Non Lamé)

5 SEWING Use the correct needle size! For sewing knits and lightweight spandex use a 90/14 needle. Using the incorrect needle will result in thread breakage, skipped stitches and sometimes broken needles. For sewing heavier or thicker material use a or special leather needles like 100/18 or 100/16 Use a zigzag stitch on areas that require the most stretching (Neckline, wrist, ankles, etc). Most sewing machines have a Stretch Stitch. Settings are whatever length is past 0 named SS. Width can be whichever length. DO NOT USE A BASIC STRAIGHT STICH! This will result in the thread breaking due to resistance. If using Wooly Nylon in sewing machine, wind it in the bobbin. Sewing with it will result in constant breakage as it s meant to be used with a Serger. Make sure thread tension is loose. Between 3-4

6 SERGING! The absolute easiest and best way to sew spandex is with a Serger. It s fast, thread doesn t break from stretching, trims fabric and finishes off edges. Wooly Nylon thread a very painful to thread but wonderful stretch thread to use. More expensive than regular thread, but is the same price as a serger cone (roughly $3-4) Serger Cones if you don t want to use Wooly Nylon check the texture and weight of the cones. The best serger cones to use on spandex that will guarantee less thread breakage from stretching is T40 Spun Poly Cotton thread.

7 CUTTING TOOLS OLFA safety lock rotary cutter Rotary cutters in different sizes and styles Pattern Weights Self healing cutting mat

8 CUTTING Using weights keeps the pattern in place when cutting around the fabric. Ball Point pins are an option for thin nylon spandex fabric Always cut knit fabric with a rotary cutter. It s easier, especially for slippery fabrics and cutting curved edges. Use a cutting mat. Do not cut directly on a table or floor! Scissors will give you uneven cuts. Best brands include OLFA, Fiskers and Clover DO NOT BUY THE STORE BRAND CUTTERS! They are a waste of money. Their scissors are good quality.

9 SEWING FEET Teflon Foot Walking Foot Invisible Zipper Foot Roller Foot For use with slippery fabrics. Not suited for matte vinyl s. It will get stuck. For sewing hidden zippers in costume. For sewing evenly or with the zig zag stitch to finish edges on a sewing machine. For sewing with thick fabrics.

10 SEWING WITH VINYL/FAUX LEATHER DO NOT USE SEWING PINS! This will leave puncture holes in the garment. A semi fix for hole punctures is to use an iron with cloth over the area. Do not use this often as it makes the fabric softer and easier to tear. For thin fabric use Paper Clips or Basting Stitches For thicker fabric use binder clips For thick fabrics use a Roller Foot

11 APPLIQUÉ AND OTHER DESIGNS Stabilizer - For use with embroidery or reinforce intricate cuts that need to maintain a certain shape. There are different types for specific designs. Cut Away Needs to be cut after design is finished with scissors. Good for emblems, patches and other FILLED designs. Tear Away After sewing just pull the sheet away from the fabric. Good for thin designs like lettering or outlining. Wash Away Is a water soluble paper that is good for lace or very intricately detailed designs. Attach designs with stitches or glue. DO NOT embroider directly onto spandex. It will pull the fabric and there will be no stretch. Cat costume from movie Duo

12 ADHESIVES For attaching detailed fabric pieces that cannot easily be sewn by machine use Tacky Fabric Glue or Liquid Stitch. As well as for adhering rhinestones or other jewels. These glues have elasticity to them. Do not use liquid stitch to glue seams together! Heat n Bond works best for fabric chest emblems. It is double sided. Comes in a sheet or roll. CUT the design out AFTER you adhere a piece of the fabric. Preferable type Ultra Hold. This DOES NOT work on Faux Leather or Vinyl fabrics. They must GLUED on. If attaching Urethane Rubber parts to a spandex, use Loctite and the Loctite Primer. Contact Cement can be used as well. Warning! Has a strong odor that will last over a day! Use in ventilated area.

13 COSTUMES BY ME

14 RECOMMENDATIONS FROM PANEL Sewing Patterns Jalie (Canadian brand) Laughing Moon (Corset) Kwik Sew Sewing Books The Costume Technician's Handbook Vogue Sewing The Complete Serger Handbook Serger/Sewing Brands Janome Babylock (Serger) Brothers 1024D Serger Bernina Costume References Cirque Du Soleil: 25 Years of Costume (Recently in reproduction again! Hooray!) Fabric Spandex World Spandex Warehouse Fabric USA

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