in Fine Watchmaking for

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1 in Fine Watchmaking for HAUTE HORLOGERIE JOURNALS

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3 Introduction The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) takes pleasure in presenting this latest Haute Horlogerie Journal - Trends and New Models, now a fixture in its calendar of publications. Indeed, this third edition comes buoyed by the success of its two predecessors. No other publication offers an exhaustive and independently compiled inventory of the emblematic timepieces proposed by the Maisons in the Fine Watch segment. As in previous years, certain conditions have guided this selection, such as to include a maximum of four watches per brand, and to feature only those which display genuine innovation in their mechanisms or aesthetic. The result is a no less reliable view of advances made in the industry as a whole. Nomenclature is also respected. All the watches in these pages are presented with a list of technical criteria which, as far as possible and based on available information, details the same specifications for each. A brief commentary further describes the reasons for their presence in this Haute Horlogerie Journal. In addition, each timepiece is assigned to one of four categories, identified by a colour: Classic, Design, Technical and Women's. All that remains is to wish you, the reader, the same enjoyment in browsing these pages as their authors had in writing them! CHRISTOPHE ROULET FONDATION DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE

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5 Contents INTRODUCTION 2013, a year of consolidation 4 Trends for Definition of a new model 8 BRANDS A. Lange & Söhne 10 Andreas Strehler 12 Armin Strom 13 Audemars Piguet 14 Baume & Mercier 16 Beat Haldimann 18 Blancpain 19 Boucheron 21 Bovet Breguet 25 Breitling 27 Bulgari 29 Cartier 31 Chanel 33 Chopard 35 Christophe Claret 37 Corum 39 De Bethune 41 de Grisogono 43 DeLaneau 45 F.P.Journe 47 Franck Muller 48 Girard-Perregaux 50 Glashütte Original 52 Greubel Forsey 54 H. Moser & Cie 55 Harry Winston 56 Hautlence 58 Hermès 59 Hublot 61 IWC 63 Jaeger-LeCoultre 65 Jaquet Droz 67 JeanRichard 69 Kari Voutilainen 70 Louis Vuitton 71 Maîtres du Temps 73 MB&F 74 Montblanc 75 Omega 77 Panerai 79 Parmigiani Fleurier 80 Patek Philippe 82 Paul Gerber 83 Perrelet 84 Piaget 85 Pita Barcelona 87 Ralph Lauren 88 Richard Mille 89 Roger Dubuis 91 Rolex 93 Romain Gauthier 94 Speake-Marin 95 TAG Heuer 97 Ulysse Nardin 98 Urwerk 100 Vacheron Constantin 101 Van Cleef & Arpels 103 Vianney Halter 105 Zenith 106

6 2013, a year of consolidation BY CHRISTOPHE ROULET To imagine that Swiss watchmaking could carry on indefinitely with the same meteoric growth as in the post-subprime crisis era would have been unrealistic. Gaining 1.9% on 2012, 2013 was thus a year of "consolidation at a high level" (to borrow a favourite expression when describing these cycles), though no less another record year for Swiss watch exports which climbed to CHF 20.8 billion. Unsurprisingly, mechanical watches performed best and confirmed they are the front-runners of time measurement. Representing some 25% of Swiss watch exports in quantity, they account for close to 80% in value. A foreseeable result of anti-corruption campaigns, Hong Kong and China weighed most heavily on business performance last year, with respectively a 5.6% drop for the Swiss watch industry's main export market and a 12.5% decline for its third biggest destination. Not that we should paint too bleak a picture. In the first four months of 2014, the value of watches that travelled beyond Swiss borders posted a healthy increase of almost 4%. Furthermore, the sector continues to take on new staff, creating an additional 1,500 jobs in Switzerland last year and probably as many again in the rest of the world. Investment is also holding up well. Far from battening down the hatches, Swiss watchmaking is showing its confidence in the future. This optimism is more than confirmed by the prolificacy of the sector, which is echoed in these pages. For more than a decade, watchmakers have invested in the necessary means to give ever greater scope to their collections, a direction further reflected in the importance these Manufactures now attach to research and development. The growing 4 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

7 number of fairs intended to showcase the measurement of time offers yet another illustration of this forward march. Baselworld was the only real reference until it was joined, some three decades ago, by the Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair, soon followed by the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, which celebrates its silver jubilee in A trio that must now accommodate the numerous other events to have taken up residence in Mexico City (SIAR), London (QP), Munich (Inhorgenta), Paris (Belles Montres), New York (TimeCrafters) or Hong Kong (Watches&Wonders), to name but the most prominent. Another sure sign is the value of Swiss timepieces, which continues on its upward trajectory. Latest figures published by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry reveal that the average price of a Swiss watch climbed to $791 in This is 5.9% up on 2012 and a figure that has more than quadrupled over twenty years. What's more, these are export values for a market which in retail prices represents some $60 billion. By way of comparison, the average price of watches exported from China in 2013 amounted to $3 and $21 for watches leaving Hong Kong. Some see this as evidence of Swiss watchmaking's quasi unshakeable grip on the mechanical watch market. A matter of tradition, one might say, but this is only part of the picture. Switzerland continues to leave an indelible mark on the measurement of time, and leave the competition far behind, because it has shown itself able to adapt to economic forces and become that unique junction between cutting-edge industry and high craftsmanship. An alchemy borne out by the statistics of these past years. Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 5

8 Trends for 2014 BY CHRISTOPHE ROULET No timepiece can be too beautiful to adorn a feminine wrist. Particularly now that women make no secret of their love affair with the tick-tock of a mechanical watch. Watchmakers needed no further encouragement to offer them their heart's desire, some with métiers d'art, which certain Maisons master with ever greater perfection, some with creations as technically astounding, if not baffling, as their futuristic inventions for men - with an added dash of poetry of course - and others with collections imagined for her and her only. Granted, this isn't a recent trend but it is becoming more entrenched. As though watchmakers were realising they had forgotten something along the way. Or rather someone! Colour is conspicuously absent from the year's new styles. Black is back, beefing up the contours of one or other sports watch or underscoring the virtues of a crisp, clean line, as evidenced by ultra-thin timepieces. Year after year, watchmakers take thinness to new record levels in a high-wire performance that is widely considered one of the purest expressions of horological classicism. Such wafer-like watches are an expression of sovereign luxury and mechanical mastery on an infinitely small scale. Indeed, with components that barely exceed a few tenths of a millimetre in height and tolerances measured in microns, hence their greater fragility compared with more generously sized movements, these timepieces demand a rare level of expertise. The same virtuosity is apparent in movements, now prominently positioned in the horological spectrum. No efforts are spared in transforming these calibres into veritable 6 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

9 works of art. Dials are banished to make way for skeletonwork that will reveal the calibre in its most essential attire. This trend is such that certain watchmakers now develop their movements with the possibility of a later skeletonised version in mind. In a similar vein, where dials do exist they too have likely been cut away to allow a glimpse of the vital organs beating beneath. Thus the mechanics of time become a symphony written in harmonies of art and technique. Where art, and its applications, are concerned, the preservation of rare and ancient crafts is now rivalled by a novel approach intended to introduce new techniques or established skills which have yet to express themselves on a horological canvas. Rose petal marquetry, bulino engraving, glyptic and millefiori crystal are just some examples. These artistic crafts offer infinite scope for expression to watchmakers who no longer conceive their activity in purely mechanical terms, but with a touch of poetry that renders each timepiece all the more desirable. Which leaves us to contemplate watchmaking's most compelling complications. Striking watches this year come to the fore with an array of complex and innovative minute repeaters. Originally designed to give the time in all circumstances, in particular after candles had been snuffed for the night, these dignified representatives of another age have been reimagined for today. A reminder that watchmaking can never fully pay its debt to its illustrious precursors. A reminder too that often, the pupil outshines the master. Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 7

10 Definition of a new model The four main categories of new model At the beginning of each year, watch companies present their new products. The distinction has clearly been made between watches that bring variants or a new design feature to an existing collection, and new watches that fall into one or more of the following categories: WOMEN S A WOMEN S watch is defined by the following characteristics: A woman s watch is not a derivative of an existing man s watch Mechanical watches are designed for women The watch is specifically intended as a jewel-watch CLASSIC A CLASSIC watch belongs to either of the following two categories: One which emphasises a restrained aesthetic and a smooth, flowing line, and whose movement is without grandes complications. This classic watch has enduring elegance and the forgotten charm of an indefinable era. One whose original launch dates back at least twenty years and therefore qualifies as "vintage". It is often an iconic model from a brand that wishes to perpetuate a defining style. Vintage constitutes an important trend in contemporary watchmaking. The characteristics of a watch are as follows: Particular focus on design to enhance legibility of the watch s functions, provides genuine added value and becomes an identifying feature of the watch Original movement, case or dial structure Contributions from the métiers d art such as engraving, gem-setting, enamelling, marquetry, engine-turning, mosaic and sculpting Skeleton and openworked movements as an embellishing feature The characteristics of a watch are as follows: Any new calibre or original module equipping a "simple" or complicated watch Use of innovative materials or materials not generally used in watchmaking Advances in high-frequency technology Extra-thin movements 8 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

11 2014 Trends and new models Alphabetical order by brand Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 9

12 A. Lange & Söhne CLASSIC 1815 In Socrates' day, an inscription on the fronton of the Temple of Apollo in Delphi read μηδὲν ἄγαν (mêdén ágan) or "nothing in excess". A belief shared by Ferdinand A. Lange, founder of the eponymous brand whose year of birth is also the name of this collection. The watchmaker from Glashütte embraces this principle in the new 1815, a reminder that the measurement of time has one of its most beautiful expressions in an authentically classic watch TOURBILLON When the crown on this new timepiece by A. Lange & Söhne is pulled out, the tourbillon cage instantly stops and the seconds hand returns immediately to zero so that time can be set to the exact second. Such a feat is made possible by the interaction between two patented mechanisms: the tourbillon stop, a prowess in itself, and the zero-reset. This unprecedented function is further accentuated by the watch's classic design. Limited edition of 100 for the platinum version. Movement hand-wound Manufacture L051.1 calibre, 188 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds with stop seconds Dial silver-coloured solid silver Case rose gold, 38.5 mm ø, 8.8 mm high, sapphire back Movement hand-wound Manufacture L102.1 calibre, 262 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, one-minute tourbillon with patented stop seconds and patented zero-reset mechanism Dial silver-coloured solid silver Case platinum, 39.5 mm ø, 11.1 mm high, sapphire back 10 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

13 A. Lange & Söhne GRAND LANGE 1 MOON PHASE The new Lange 1 from the Glashütte manufacture turns all eyes on the moon-phase display which features prominently on the main dial. As always, precision is uppermost hence the Lange engineers have developed a mechanism which requires a single correction of the moon-phase display every years. By way of comparison, a classic moon phase will already be one day out after two and a half years. RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR "TERRALUNA" Whichever side is on view, this new Richard Lange timepiece elicits admiration. On the front, a regulator dial showing hours, minutes and seconds, perpetual calendar and power reserve in an aperture; on the back, an orbital moon-phase display which also shows the position of the Moon in relation to the Earth and Sun this is the art of watchmaking from Saxony at its very finest. As ever, there are to be no concessions regarding precision, with a movement that includes a constant-force escapement. Movement hand-wound Manufacture L095.3 calibre, 446 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds with stop seconds, power-reserve indicator, large date, moon phases Dial silver-coloured solid silver Case rose gold, 41.0 mm ø, 9.5 mm high, sapphire back Movement hand-wound Manufacture L096.1 calibre, 787 parts, constant-force escapement with remontoir spring, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, two barrels, 14-day power reserve Functions hours, minutes, regulator seconds, perpetual calendar with large date, day, month and leap year in apertures, power-reserve indicator, orbital moon-phase display with day/night indication on the movement side Dial silver-coloured solid silver Case white gold, 45.5 mm ø, 16.5 mm high, sapphire back Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 11

14 Andreas Strehler SAUTERELLE À LUNE PERPÉTUELLE To quote the judges of the Prix Gaïa, Andreas Strehler conceives his minimalist movements like living organisms; no doubt why in 2013 he took the award in the Artisanat-Creation category. Equally remarkable, this timepiece offers the most precise moon phase ever built. Comprising just four parts, it requires manual adjustment of one day every 14, years. Based on the Sauterelle, its mechanism includes Strehler's patented remontoir d égalité which delivers a constant supply of energy to the escapement. Movement hand-wound with patented remontoir d égalité, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 78-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, "perpetual" moon phases Dial silvered Case 18k rose gold, 41 x mm, 10 mm high 12 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

15 Armin Strom ONE WEEK SKELETON This One Week Skeleton is the realisation of Armin Strom's longstanding dream to produce a skeleton entirely in-house, and in the grand tradition of the brand. The barrel springs, visible through the winding wheels, the blued small seconds hand, and the bridge cut-outs echo earlier creations. The decoration afforded to the parts combines aesthetic with functionality in a rarely achieved harmony. Limited edition of 50. Movement hand-wound ARM09-S skeleton calibre, 146 parts, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 7-day power reserve Functions offset hours and minutes, small seconds, power-reserve indicator Dial sapphire with founded appliques Case 18k rose gold, sapphire back, mm ø, 13 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 13

16 Audemars Piguet WOMEN'S CLASSIC ROYAL OAK CHRONOGRAPH Audemars Piguet applies the magic of precious stones to a generously sized sports watch. Each of the rose gold surfaces, from the case to the lugs, from the dial to the bracelet, have been paved with diamonds: a total of 966 stones, graded IF, for approximately 7.9 carats. Driven by a mechanical movement, this timepiece is resolutely aimed at the growing ranks of women for whom a watch can be nothing but mechanical. ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE CHRONOGRAPH Audemars Piguet trains the spotlight on the Royal Oak Offshore, a style that made its debut in This year it comes as six new versions with a more sculpted aesthetic and a design that emphasises technique, evidenced by the crown-guard, and the ceramic crown and pushers. A variant of the Navy, this model from the new collection stands out for its royal blue dial and rubber strap with contrasting orange chronograph hands. Movement self-winding Manufacture 2385 calibre, mm ø (11½ lines), 5.50 mm high, 304 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 40-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph with centre seconds hand, 12-hour and 30-minute counters Dial diamond-paved, silvered counters, applied hour markers Case 18k rose gold, fully diamond-set, sapphire crystal, screwed crown, diamond-set bracelet, water-resistant to 50 metres Movement self-winding Manufacture 3126/3840 calibre, mm ø (13¼ lines), 7.16 mm high, 365 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph with centre seconds hand, 12-hour and 30-minute counters Dial blue with "Mega Tapisserie" pattern, silvered counters Case stainless steel, sapphire crystal and sapphire back, screwed crown, black ceramic pushers, 42 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres 14 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

17 Audemars Piguet WOMEN'S ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE DIVER This new style completes the line-up of Royal Oak Offshore Diver watches, all water-resistant to 300 metres and protected by an anti-magnetic inner case. Audemars Piguet presents a version whose bezel, case, crown and pushers are in white ceramic, even more resistant than black ceramic to make this watch virtually impossible to scratch. The unidirectional bezel for calculating dive time is operated by a screw-locked crown at 10 o'clock. ROYAL OAK CONCEPT GMT TOURBILLON After a 2011 version with titanium case paired with a bezel, crown and pusher in black ceramic, the Tourbillon Royal Oak Concept GMT introduces a chromatic change. This new Royal Oak Concept, which debuted in 2002 to celebrate the 30th anniversary of this iconic Audemars Piguet watch, opts for a bezel, crown and pusher in white ceramic. This same ceramic also finds its way into the movement, in the hourglass-shaped upper bridge. Movement self-winding Manufacture 3120 calibre, mm ø (11¾ lines), 4.26 mm high, 280 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 60-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, centre seconds, date, dive time Dial light silver-toned with "Mega Tapisserie" pattern, light silver-toned inner rotating bezel with diving scale and zone from 60 to 15 minutes in blue Case white ceramic, sapphire crystal and sapphire back, screwed bezel and crown in white ceramic, titanium links, water-resistant to 300 metres Movement hand-wound Manufacture tourbillon 2930 calibre, mm ø (15¾ lines), 9.90 mm high, 291 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, two barrels, 10-day power reserve Functions hours, minutes, tourbillon, 24-hour GMT display, day/night indication, function selection Dial openworked, tourbillon and GMT bridges in black anodised aluminium, upper bridge in white ceramic, inner bezel in black anodised aluminium Case titanium, sapphire crystal and sapphire back, screwed bezel and crown in white ceramic, white ceramic pusher, water-resistant to 100 metres Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 15

18 Baume & Mercier WOMEN'S CLIFTON 30 MM Introduced in 2013, the Clifton collection takes its style cue from a 1950s watch. Joining the range this year are models with a 30 mm case. The silver-toned dial displays the date in an aperture. Gold-toned numerals and hour markers, along with the steel link bracelet, make this a lively and at the same time classic design. CLIFTON CHRONOGRAPH A new addition to the Clifton family, this chronograph is driven by a Swiss-made, self-winding mechanical movement with an established reputation as a hard-wearing, reliable calibre. As well as the chronograph indications, day and date are displayed in a double aperture. Elegant and cosmopolitan, this is a precision timepiece on which time has no hold. Movement self-winding ETA 2671 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 38-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, seconds, retrograde data Dial mother-of-pearl, diamond hour markers (0.06 carat) Case round, steel, sapphire back, 30 mm ø, 9.94 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres Movement self-winding ETA 7750 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, chronograph Dial satin-finish silver sunburst and snailed Case round, steel, sapphire back, 43 mm ø, mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres 16 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

19 Baume & Mercier CLIFTON RETROGRADE DATE The star of the 2014 launches, this watch confirms Baume & Mercier's determination to give horophiles a complication watch that is both functional and affordable. The generous size leaves ample room for hours, minutes and seconds, while the harmonious arrangement of the different indications adds to legibility. CLIFTON 1892 FLYING TOURBILLON An exceptional timepiece in a limited edition of 30, this watch is driven by a hand-wound calibre, regulated by a flying tourbillon and produced by Manufacture ValFleurier. Superlative finishing and the fact that each movement is assembled from start to finish by the same watchmaker are signs of masterful craftsmanship. Known for its complex execution, the flying tourbillon allows a clear view of its cage as it rotates once a minute, unobstructed by any bridge. Movement self-winding SOPROD 9094 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, seconds, day, retrograde date, power-reserve indicator Dial satin-finish silver sunburst Case round, steel, sapphire back, 43 mm ø, mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres Movement hand-wound Manufacture ValFleurier P591 tourbillon calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, flying tourbillon Dial silvered opaline Case round, 18k red gold, sapphire back, 45.5 mm ø, water-resistant to 50 metres Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 17

20 Beat Haldimann H3 CENTRAL FLYING TOURBILLON AND MINUTE REPEATER True to form, Beat Haldimann confounds expectations with the H3, the first watch to combine a central flying tourbillon, a feat in itself, with a minute repeater. There is to be no "reading" the time - hands are conspicuous by their absence. Instead, hours and minutes are counted in chimes. In an additional refinement, an auxiliary dial on the back allows the wearer to correctly set the repeater mechanism and thus rest assured that the chiming melody corresponds to the time that governs our days. Movement hand-wound Manufacture H.Zen-C calibre, flying tourbillon with three drums, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency Functions central one-minute flying tourbillon, minute repeater, auxiliary dial for setting the time on the back Dial black Case platinum, sapphire back, 39 or 42 mm ø, waterresistant to 30 metres 18 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

21 Blancpain CLASSIC CLASSIC VILLERET CARROUSEL MOON PHASES Blancpain's two iconic complications are brought together for the first time, and in the splendid company of a Grand Feu enamel dial. Long overshadowed by the tourbillon, Blancpain restored the carrousel to the spotlight in 2008 when it unveiled the first ever flying carrousel to perform a one-minute rotation. This mechanical prowess returns alongside a moon-phase complication. A serpentine hand points to the date around the circumference of the dial. VILLERET 8-DAY PERPETUAL CALENDAR This perpetual calendar displays its functions with a pleasing symmetry that recalls the pocket watches of days gone by. Blancpain's new self-winding movement keeps track of the varying lengths of the month and of leap years without any need for adjustment until Calendar indications and moon phases are easily adjusted by means of correctors which, concealed under the lugs, are invisible on the wrist. Movement self-winding 225L calibre, 281 parts, 120-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, one-minute flying carrousel, date Dial white Grand Feu enamel Case 18k red gold, 42 mm ø, mm high, waterresistant to 30 metres Movement self-winding 5939A calibre, 379 parts, 32 mm ø, 7.25 mm high, 192-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, 8-day perpetual calendar, with date, day, month and leap year indication, moon phases Dial Grand Feu enamel Case 18k red gold, 42 mm ø, 13.5 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 19

22 Blancpain CLASSIC CLASSIC VILLERET 12-DAY ONE-MINUTE FLYING TOURBILLON Twenty-five years after the launch of Calibre 25, then the first and thinnest flying tourbillon on a self-winding wristwatch, Blancpain returns to this complication which it endows with greater autonomy. A single barrel guarantees the exceptional 12-day power reserve of this self-winding tourbillon, whose cage has been enlarged to allow a clear view of the balance and escape wheel design. BATHYSCAPHE FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH New to the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe collection, this flyback chronograph resets and instantly restarts at the push of a button. The new mechanism incorporates a silicon balance spring whose antimagnetic properties dispense with the need for a Faraday cage. Movement self-winding 242 calibre, 243 parts, mm ø 6.10 mm high, 288-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, one-minute flying tourbillon Dial Grand Feu enamel Case platinum, 42 mm ø, mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres Movement self-winding F385 calibre, 36,000 vibrations/ hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph, date Dial black Case black ceramic, mm ø, mm high, unidirectional black ceramic bezel with ceramic insert and Liquidmetal hour markers, water-resistant to 300 metres 20 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

23 Boucheron REFLET L Boucheron returns to one of its iconic watches, first imagined in In this new, larger interpretation, delicately polished vertical gadroons soften the geometric case. The hour marker at 12 on the white dial is symbolised by a blue sapphire. A selfwinding mechanical movement drives the hour and minute hands. ÉPURE OURSIN Boucheron gives another lesson in rare crafts with its Épure d'art watches. Timekeeping functions, courtesy of a Girard-Perregaux Manufacture calibre, are pared to the strict essential, leaving pride of place to gold and marquetry, a work reminiscent of Florentine cabinets of the Renaissance. The sea-urchin dial of this Épure d Art Oursin is paved with white diamonds, blue sapphires and lacquered gold cabochons. Movement self-winding Girard-Perregaux Manufacture GP40000 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 40-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes Movement self-winding Functions hours, minutes Dial white, blue sapphire cabochon Case rectangular, steel, 42 x 24 mm Dial sea-urchin design composed of six double gadroons, set with diamonds and 19 lacquered white gold cabochons in three different sizes in a bezel setting. The rest of the sea-urchin is set with sapphires in a gradient of blue. Total of 355 stones Case 18k white gold, non gem-set, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 21

24 Boucheron ÉPURE D'ART FLEUR DE JOUR This watch from the Épure d Art collection is a composition of light and structure, thanks to the flower that fills its dial. Each petal is crafted from white mother-of-pearl and set on a bed of diamonds, with more diamonds around the bezel. The finished piece is a shimmering celebration of the métiers d'art. Movement self-winding Manufacture Girard-Perregaux GP40000 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 40-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes Dial marquetry of white mother-of-pearl on a bed of diamonds. The mother-of-pearl is positioned at different angles to catch the light and create an impression of volume Case 18k white gold, diamonds, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres 22 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

25 Bovet 1822 RÉCITAL 12 «MONSIEUR DIMIER» Bovet 1822 presents its first ever movement to be entirely designed and manufactured in-house and which is not regulated by a tourbillon. A full five years of development preceded its debut inside the Recital 12 Monsieur Dimier where the magic of this calibre is revealed, in particular the wheels, balance and triple seconds hand. Two symmetrical openings allow a view of the power reserve and a segment of the barrel which guarantees seven days of autonomy. Limited edition of 150 for each colour of the gold case. AMADEO FLEURIER TOURBILLON VIRTUOSO III Bovet 1822 completes its collection of "useful" grandes complications with this Virtuoso III whose timekeeping functions, rendered perfectly legible on both sides by reverse hand-fitting, combine with a retrograde perpetual calendar, all regulated by a one-minute tourbillon. The movement finish is on a par with these superlative mechanics. Every surface of the bridges and plates has been hand-engraved with the Fleurier pattern, a detail collectors will particularly appreciate. Limited edition of 39 for each colour of the gold case. Movement hand-wound openworked Virtuoso II calibre, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 7-day power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve Dial skeleton, black or white lacquer for the offset hours and minutes Case 18k red gold, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, 9.10 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres Movement hand-wound Virtuoso III tourbillon calibre, 656 parts, 38 mm ø, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 5-day power reserve Functions hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, day, month, retrograde date, leap year cycle indicator, power-reserve indicator, reverse hand-fitting Dial lacquered white or black, openworked Case convertible Amadeo with secret opening, 18k red or white gold, 46 mm ø, mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 23

26 Bovet 1822 WOMEN'S BOVET BY PININFARINA "SERGIO" The Bovet by Pininfarina collection made its debut in 2010 at the same time as the convertible Amadeo case, and has already encompassed three tourbillons (Ottanta, Ottantadue, Ottantatre) and a chronograph (Cambiano). This latest addition takes inspiration from the bodywork of the "Sergio" Ferrari, designed by Italy's renowned Pininfarina design company and named in honour of Sergio Pininfarina who chaired the family firm for 40 years. The dial of this split-seconds chronograph offers ideal legibility with the additional feature of four recessed areas. Limited edition of 250. AMADEO FLEURIER 36 "MISS AUDREY" The Amadeo Fleurier collection welcomes the arrival of a 36 mm diameter model in steel. Introduced in 2010 across the range, the Amadeo case converts effortlessly from a wristwatch to a table clock or a pendant watch, without any need for tools. The Amadeo system was further miniaturised for the "Miss Audrey" watch without compromising its perfect functioning. The dial of this new timepiece comes to life in pastel shades of turquoise or purple. Movement self-winding 13BA08-R calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, split-seconds chronograph, 30-minute counter, power-reserve indicator Dial anthracite, black, blue or rhodium-plated Case convertible Amadeo, stainless steel, sapphire back, 45 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres Movement self-winding 11BA13 calibre, 26 mm ø, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes Dial guilloché and lacquered with four diamond hourmarkers Case convertible Amadeo, stainless steel, bezel set with 60 round diamonds (0.68 carat), bow set with 43 round diamonds (0.21 carat), 36 mm ø, mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres 24 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

27 Breguet WOMEN'S CLASSIC CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR 3797 Joining the perpetual calendars already in the Classique collection, this new version is fitted with the Calibre 3797 which emphasises intuitive reading of the many timekeeping and calendar indications. To achieve this legibility, Breguet has played on different depths, lifting the hours and minutes chapter to the foreground in order to highlight this essential display. A second look takes in each of the remaining indications. CLASSIQUE DAME 9068 From its very beginnings, Breguet has taken care to imagine timepieces specifically for women. Rather than simply adding precious gems to existing designs for men, in Breguet's day the company was already crafting mechanical watches for its female admirers. Carrying on in this vein, its collections continue to propose timepieces of similar ilk, with qualities such as a slender case, uncluttered dial or delicate gem-setting. The Classique Dame 9068 is a perfect example. Movement hand-wound Manufacture 558QP2 calibre, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon axis, perpetual calendar with day, month, leap year and retrograde date Dial 18k rose gold, silvered and hand-guilloché with four different patterns Case 18k rose gold, fluted caseband, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres Movement self-winding Manufacture 591A calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 38-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date Dial 18k gold, silvered and hand-guilloché Case 18k white gold, fluted caseband, bezel and lugs set with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.606 carat), sapphire back, mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 25

28 Breguet WOMEN'S LES VOLANTS DE LA REINE Breguet's watchmakers have frequently looked to details from period costumes when creating their jewellery timepieces for women. This year the Manufacture captures in a jewelled watch the charm of the bows and frills that adorned the gowns worn by Queen Marie-Antoinette of France, Breguet's first female customer. Les Volants de la Reine is a fitting tribute to such finery. Movement self-winding 586 calibre, 21,600 vibrations/ hour frequency, 38-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes Dial natural mother-of-pearl set with 20 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.02 carat) Case 18k white gold, bezel and caseband set with 146 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.848 carats), inner bezel set with 66 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.132 carat), frills set with 193 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.07 carats) in a snow setting, 11 baguette diamonds (0.35 carat) and 2 cushion-cut sapphires (0.59 carat), crown set with a briolette diamond (0.28 carat), lugs set with 61 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.478 carat) in a snow setting, sapphire back, 33 x mm 26 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

29 Breitling CLASSIC CHRONOMAT 44 AIRBORNE Breitling marks the 30th anniversary of its Chronomat with a special series that combines a technical look with the performance professional users expect. In the early 1980s, the company learned that the Italian airforce's aerobatics team, Frecce Tricolori, was inviting proposals for its official watch. Breitling responded with a completely new aviation chronograph that was tailor-made to meet pilots' needs. The elite team was won over by this original, functional and stylish timepiece, and in 1983 the Frecce Tricolori official watch took to the skies. The following year, the Chronomat joined the brand's regular collection. BENTLEY GMT LIGHT BODY B04 "Bentley" for the quintessential British car. "GMT" for the innovative dual time-zone adjustment system. "Light Body" for the featherweight titanium case. "B04" for the Manufacture calibre, entirely developed and produced in the Breitling workshops. A model of functionality, this travel chronograph is distinguished by its ease of use: simply pull out the crown and turn it forwards or backwards to adjust the time zone in one-hour increments without losing any precision in minutes. The date automatically adjusts to local time, in both directions. Movement COSC-certified, self-winding Manufacture Breitling 01 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 70-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, ¼-second chronograph, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, date, tachymeter scale on the inner bezel Dial Onyx Black or Sierra Silver Case steel, ratcheted unidirectional rotating bezel, 41 or 44 mm ø, water-resistant to 300 metres (41 mm) or 500 metres (44 mm) Movement COSC-certified, self-winding Manufacture Breitling B04 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 70-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, ¼-second chronograph, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, date, second time zone by central hand over 24 hours, 24 time zones on the ratcheted rotating bezel Dial Royal Ebony or Tungsten Case titanium, sapphire back, 49 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 27

30 Breitling CLASSIC NAVITIMER GMT Breitling enters a new chapter in the life of its famed Navitimer aviation chronograph with a reinterpretation of the classic watch in a larger size, and a travel version designed for ease of use. Proposed with an impressive 48 mm diameter, this new GMT model is equipped with the B04 calibre. The second time zone is set forwards or backwards simply by turning the crown, without losing track of minutes or 24-hour local time. The date automatically follows. Movement COSC-certified, self-winding Manufacture Breitling B04 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 70-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, ¼-second chronograph, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, date, second time zone by central hand over 24 hours, tachymeter scale, slide rule on the rotating bezel Dial black or Mercury Silver Case steel or 18k red gold, sapphire back, 48 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres 28 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

31 Bulgari WOMEN'S LUCEA Bulgari illuminates a woman's wrist with Lucea whose name is derived from lux and luce, the Latin and Italian words for "light". This new creation commands admiration with an ageless elegance coloured by the brand's style signatures. A round case and supple construction are matched by the Serpenti-inspired bracelet. Hinting at Bulgari's jewellery origins, a warm pink cabochon gem clinches the crown, adorned in its centre with a solitaire diamond. Indeed, Lucea has no need for further embellishment; in its most pared-down version, it is already a classic. AMMIRAGLIO DEL TEMPO Four hammers and gongs, a minute repeater and Westminster chimes, and still the inventory of functions proposed by Ammiraglio del Tempo goes on, as this new timepiece also equips its sophisticated striking mechanism with an innovative repeater slide. In addition, this new grande complication from Bulgari is presented with a detent escapement and a constant-force device, a regulating organ which represents the highest level of complexity in watchmaking. Limited edition of 20 in 18k rose gold and limited edition of 10 in 18k white gold. Movement self-winding B77calibre, 77 parts, mm ø, 3.60 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date Dial black, sunray guilloché Case steel, 18k rose gold bezel, 18k rose gold crown with a pink cabochon stone set with a diamond, bracelet with alternating 18k rose gold and steel links, 33 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres Movement hand-wound Manufacture calibre with detent escapement, constant-force device and minute repeater, 516 parts, 38 mm ø, 9.38 mm high, 14,400 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, Westminster chimes minute repeater with four hammers and gongs Dial made from a gold plate with openings to show the detent escapement, hammers and gongs Case 18k rose or white gold, repeater slide at 7 o'clock, sapphire back, 50 mm ø, mm high Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 29

32 Bulgari WOMEN'S DIVA The Diva watch is proud to proclaim its origins in the jewelled values that founded the House of Bulgari. A reference to the golden age of silver-screen legends, it embodies the Dolce Vita days when Bulgari was inseparable from the world of film. The collection embraces multiple combinations of stones in every colour. The epitome of feminine charm, it plays on the modular geometric designs explored in the jewellery collection of the same name. OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON Bulgari has created nothing less than the world's thinnest flying tourbillon watch in a movement that measures a mere 1.95 mm high. Innovative solutions made possible this quest for ultimate thinness. Firstly, ball bearings are used to pivot the moving parts. The regulator assembly has also been omitted to gain vital millimetres. Timing is instead adjusted directly on the balance wheel. The barrel is held in position and guided by three peripheral ball bearings. This solution allowed Bulgari to double the height of the mainspring for a power reserve of 55 hours. Movement quartz Functions hours, minutes Dial white mother-of-pearl Case 18k rose gold case and bracelet, 286 brilliant-cut diamonds (5.67 carats), 8 rubellites and 8 amethysts Movement extra-thin, hand-wound Manufacture Finissimo calibre, 249 parts, mm ø, 1.95 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, one-minute tourbillon Dial polished black lacquer Case platinum, 40 mm ø, 5 mm high 30 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

33 Cartier ROTONDE DE CARTIER ASTROCALENDAIRE Carrying on from the Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur and Astrotourbillon, this watch transforms its dial into an amphitheatre where a perpetual calendar takes centre-stage. Set out in concentric tiers, this innovative display resolves many of the difficulties inherent in displaying simultaneously and legibly the month, day and date, and leap or ordinary year. Hallmarked Poinçon de Genève, the Astrocalendaire is driven by Cartier's in-house 9459 MC calibre with flying tourbillon. BALLON BLEU DE CARTIER FLORAL MARQUETRY PARROT This limited edition of 20 brings to light a craft never before seen in watchmaking: floral marquetry. Authentic, coloured flower petals are meticulously cut into the desired shape using a marquetry scroll saw. These tiny pieces become a living, precious material, here transformed into the parrot's exuberant plumage. Onyx, emerald, diamonds and miniature painting complete this stunningly lifelike tableau. Movement self-winding Manufacture 9459 MC calibre, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève Functions hours, minutes, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with circular display Dial silvered Case round, platinum, sapphire back, 45 mm ø, 15.1 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres Movement self-winding Cartier 049 calibre Functions hours, minutes Dial 18k rhodium-plated white gold and 18k rose gold, floral and onyx marquetry, emerald eye Case round, 18k rhodium-plated white gold, 124 round diamonds (1.80 carats), crown set with a cabochon blue sapphire, 42 mm ø, 15.1 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 31

34 Cartier WOMEN'S CALIBRE DE CARTIER DIVER Introduced in 2010, the Calibre de Cartier now lends itself to a dive version that is water-resistant to 300 metres. Each watch complies with ISO 6425 requirements and has been tested according to the eight obligatory criteria for a dive watch as prescribed by this international standard. Equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel, it is also one of the thinnest mechanical dive watches on the market. BALLON BLANC DE CARTIER The coveted Ballon de Cartier case reinvents itself as a sumptuous jewel-watch. The pebble shape remains true to the Ballon spirit, while the Roman numerals make a small detour from their circular route to make room for a solitaire diamond. The sinuous white gold bracelet is set with diamonds for a total of 9.35 carats. Movement self-winding Manufacture 1904 MC calibre, 25.6 mm ø, 4 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date Dial black, partially snailed Case round, rhodium-plated white gold, 18k rose gold, unidirectional bezel in 18k rose gold coated with ADLC, crown set with a facetted sapphire, 42 mm ø, 11 mm high, water-resistant to 300 metres Movement Cartier 056 quartz calibre Functions hours, minutes Dial mother-of-pearl, flinqué Case round, 18k rose gold set with diamonds (0.70 carat), 24 mm ø, crown set with a diamond (0.20 carat), waterresistant to 30 metres 32 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

35 Chanel WOMEN'S J While its spirit is unchanged, recognisable in the round case, serrated bezel, Arabic numerals and crown-guard, this new J12 has refined its look to reflect a distinctly feminine sensibility. Notable features include the smaller, 36.5 mm diameter (hence the name), the diamonds which move from crown to bezel, and the slender case which accommodates a self-winding movement. A serious alternative to the original J12 with its more sportsstyled 38 mm case. Four of the eight renditions have a case in 18k beige gold, an exclusive alloy developed by Chanel. J12 MOONPHASE Unlike the conventional moon phase complication which is displayed in an aperture, moon phases on the J12 Moonphase come to life on a deep blue aventurine disc that is spangled like a summer night sky. Positioned at 6 o'clock, it shows the four main phases of the moon: new moon, first quarter, full moon, last quarter. A serpentine hand in polished steel indicates the current phase while an additional hand points to the date. Movement mechanical self-winding, 42-hour power reserve Movement mechanical self-winding, 42-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date by hand Dial guilloché, black or opaline Case 18k beige gold, mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date by hand, moon phases Dial satin-finish opaline or black (without diamonds), guilloché opaline or black (63 diamonds on the dial, 54 diamonds on the bezel), aventurine moon-phase dial Case case and bracelet in black or white high-tech ceramic, 38 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 33

36 Chanel WOMEN'S WOMEN'S MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ WITH EMBROIDERED CAMELLIA Since 1924, Maison Lesage has created elaborate embroidery embellishments for haute couture and ready-to-wear, each of which requires hours of work and consummate expertise. Now and for the first time, this talent lends itself to watch dials. Each embroidered pattern is unique and can only be created through precise and meticulous gestures. The dial of this watch has been hand-stitched with a camellia, Gabrielle Chanel's favourite flower, using coloured silks and the "needlepoint painting" technique. Limited edition of 18. MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ GOLD CAMELLIA The Mademoiselle Privé jewellery watch collection spotlights the symbols which Gabrielle Chanel most cherished, and the objects that were a part of her life: a glimpse of Mademoiselle in private. Once again this year, Chanel uses this collection to pay homage to the métiers d art, specifically engraving and chasing. Accordingly, the flowers that adorn the gem-set dial of this Gold Camellia watch are crafted from hand-polished, handengraved 23k yellow gold. Movement mechanical self-winding, 42-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes Dial black, embroidered Case 18k white gold set with 562 brilliant-cut diamonds (3.07 carats), mm ø, 9.84 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres Movement mechanical self-winding, 42-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes Dial mat black with 5 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.11 carat) and 5 navette-cut yellow sapphires (0.09 carat), 23k gold engraved camellias Case 18k white gold, bezel set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds (1 carat), mm ø, 9.85 mm high, waterresistant to 30 metres 34 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

37 Chopard CLASSIC GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE CHRONO In 2014 and for the seventh time in a row, Chopard was the official timekeeper and sponsor of the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique, an event which Chopard traditionally celebrates with the issue of an original timepiece. This year the Maison has chosen to develop a complete new collection, the centrepiece of which is the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Chrono. This model, with its revisited design and larger, mat titanium case, a new yellow colour scheme and perforated strap, is expressly designed for the racing circuit and as a tribute to vintage Formula 1. Movement COSC-certified, self-winding chronograph, mm ø, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 46-hour power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date in an aperture, chronograph with yellow centre seconds hand, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter Dial silvered, snailed Case beadblasted titanium, steel bezel with black aluminium insert, 44.5 mm ø, 13.9 mm high, water-resistant to 100 metres HAPPY SPORT TOURBILLON JOAILLERIE Chopard introduced its Happy Sport, matching steel with diamonds, in The first mechanically-driven version came in 2013 to mark the 20th anniversary of the collection. One year later, the Manufacture takes another step forward with the addition of a one-minute tourbillon which draws energy from Chopard's very own Quattro technology, thus ensuring a full nine days of power reserve. Certified by the Poinçon de Genève, this Happy Sport Tourbillon resides in a jewelled case as a reminder of the company's gemmological expertise. Movement hand-wound Manufacture L.U.C L calibre with COSC and Poinçon de Genève certification, mm ø, 6.10 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, Quattro four-barrel technology delivering a 9-day power reserve Functions hours, minutes, small seconds on the one-minute tourbillon Dial snow-set diamonds, diamonds on the tourbillon bridge, 7 moving diamonds Case 18k white gold with diamonds, bezel set with 36 trapeze-cut diamonds, crown set with baguette diamonds and one briolette diamond, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 35