Ecological Evaluation and Identification of Rock Climbing Sites to Be Retained in Gatineau Park

Transcription

1 National Capital Commission Ecological Evaluation and Identification of Rock Climbing Sites to Be Retained in Gatineau Park February 2010 Study Summary (excerpts) File Number: H

2 NATIONAL CAPITAL COMMISSION - STUDY SUMMARY (EXCERPTS) - ECOLOGICAL EVALUATION AND IDENTIFICATION OF ROCK CLIMBING SITES TO BE RETAINED IN GATINEAU PARK

3 PROJECT TEAM FOR THE FINAL REPORT National Capital Commission Project Manager : Michel Viens, Senior Manager, Natural Resources and Land Management, Gatineau Park Project Coordinator : Catherine Verreault, Biologist, Gatineau Park GENIVAR S.E.C Montreal Environmental Unit Director : André-Martin Bouchard, Engineer Team Leader Natural Sciences : Jean-Pierre Ricard, Biologist Project Leader : Jean-Pierre Ricard, Biologist Text : Stéphanie Duguay, Biologist Field Inventories : Stéphanie Duguay, Biologist Valérie Roy, Biologist Maps and Geomatics : Julien Couturier, Geomatician Contributors Botanist, Rare Plants Consultant : André Sabourin, Biologist Development Consultant : Éric Malka, Geologist Reference for Final Report: GENIVAR Ecological Evaluation and Identification of Rock Climbing Sites to be Retained in Gatineau Park. Final report commissioned from GENIVAR corporation and submitted to the National Capital Commission. 94 pages and appendices.

4 BACKGROUND Since the approval of the Gatineau Park Master Plan (2005), the NCC has increased its focus on the conservation of Park ecosystems. The Eardley Escarpment is the most important valued natural ecosystem in the Park and is considered a Priority I conservation zone (DDM 2007). One objective of the Gatineau Park Ecosystem Conservation Plan (DDM 2010) is to determine a policy regarding rock climbing activities in Gatineau Park based on Master Plan guidelines. The Conservation Plan was approved in 2010 following numerous workshops with the various stakeholders. The Plan recommends keeping two or three rock faces open for climbing. The purpose of this recommendation is to minimize the impact of this sport to protect the exceptional natural environment of the Escarpment, Gatineau Park s richest and most fragile ecosystem, and its species at risk. This project, Ecological Evaluation and Identification of Rock Climbing Sites to be Retained in Gatineau Park, is based on this precept. The study evaluated eight of the most popular rock climbing sites (Table 1) in an effort to identify sites to be maintained for this activity and to propose a broad concept for the rehabilitation and restoration of the sites in question. The sites are grouped, since the rock climbing sites are located in the integral conservation zone at the present time. Once the official rock climbing sites and faces have been identified, zoning changes will reflect the new use of the sites, or portions thereof. Thus, the vocation of the area surrounding the rock climbing sites will shift from integral conservation to extensive recreation. The project objectives are as follows: Help to restore the integrity of the Eardley Escarpment natural ecosystem. Protect species at risk of flora and fauna at or near the rock climbing sites. Reduce the erosion and trampling of fragile habitats associated with rock climbing activities. Channel rock climbing activities by limiting the number of designated climbing faces to two or three, pursuant to the Gatineau Park Ecosystem Conservation Plan. (DDM 2010).

5 Table 1: Sites and rock faces described by Troutet (2001) and assessed in this study Rock climbing sites evaluated (8 sites) Rock faces identified in the report (18 faces) Rock faces described by Troutet (2001) and included among the evaluation units (37 faces) Bald Face Bald Face Bald Face Big Overhang Big Overhang Castle Wall Castle Wall Castle Wall Farm Rock Farm Rock - North Farm Rock - South Rocher de l Avant-goût, Alfred Pellan Sector, D Ariane Sector, Le Bastion, La Sentinelle Upper portion Lower portion The Gallery Cliff The Gallery Cliff The Arch Area, Face Climb Area Home Cliff - Centre Main Corner Area, Peggy Corner Area, Lavender Area Home Cliff Twin Ribs Western CWM Home Cliff - East Home Cliff - West Down Under Eastern Block The Left Twin Baby Pneu Upper Slabs Red Wall Western CWM - Centre Western CWM - East Western CWM - West Rothery Traverse Area, Dirty Do Chimney, Long Climb Buttress Cotter Crack Buttress Down Under Eastern Block The Left Twin Baby Pneu Upper Slabs Red Wall Up n Over, Bird s Nest Buttress Shipinawa Wall, Banana Republic, Colonel Buckets Buttress, White Wall, Corruption Buttress, Eastwood Wall Cave Wall, Spindrift Wall, Reaper Buttress, North Wall, Burple Buttress

6 APPROACH The report identifies the methodology used to evaluate the eight rock climbing sites studied, which are among the most popular. It presents the study findings and suggests approaches to site development and restoration on a case-by-case basis. Specifically, the study covers the following: A description of the study area and rock climbing sites evaluated. Methodology used to determine the evaluation method. The findings of the rock climbing site characterization study. Selection of rock climbing faces to be opened or closed. Conceptual plans for development and restoration of the rock climbing sites evaluated. Scientific method was used to evaluate the eight rock climbing sites. During the study, a total of 17 criteria in four categories were assessed, i.e. ecological value, level of deterioration, potential for conservation and rehabilitation, as well as recreational value of each rock face. An evaluation unit including a major concentration of significant ecological elements (particularly, the presence of endangered plant species associated with the Eardley Escarpment), low damage to a rock face, high potential for conservation or restoration of an evaluation unit, as well as relatively infrequent use by climbers are all elements that were considered in the recommendations to close rock faces. Whereas, the rock faces most frequented by climbers and already damaged as a result, where the evaluation unit result in the least fragmentation or loss of habitat, and where there are fewer significant ecological elements, were given priority for rock climbing.

7 RESULTS CONCLUSION This evaluation of Gatineau Park rock climbing sites has identified four walls located at two separate sites that present fewer environmental restrictions to rock climbing (see Map 2 in the appendix). The three rock climbing walls at the Twin Ribs site (Down Under, Eastern Block and The Left Twin) and the Home Cliff Centre wall offer a total of approximately 43 routes. However, they require special rehabilitation to afford additional protection of the Eardley Escarpment natural environment. The Bald Face, Big Overhang, Castle Wall, Farm Rock, The Gallery Cliff sites and rock climbing faces, Baby Pneu, Home Cliff - West, Upper Slabs, Western CWM - Centre and Western CWM - East should be closed to climbing and renaturalized. These sites and rock faces are of significant ecological value, with less damage and high restoration potential. The rock faces that were not studied as part of this evaluation will also be closed to climbers to comply with the commitments of the Master Plan and Ecosystem Conservation Plan. The decision to maintain certain rock climbing faces demonstrates NCC s willingness to allow rock climbing in Gatineau Park, but implies a significant investment, which calls for cooperation from the stakeholders. In future, the NCC could eventually consider the relevance of increasing the number of rock faces available; however, this decision will be made in light of the Gatineau Park Master Plan Review and based on the success of existing facilities, respect for the agreement with the climbers coalition, and the availability of development resources.

8 REFERENCES NATIONAL CAPITAL COMMISSION Gatineau Park Master Plan. Gatineau Park. DEL DEGAN, MASSÉ ET ASSOCIÉS INC Évaluation et identification des écosystèmes et des habitats naturels valorisés. Rapport présenté par Del Degan, Massé et Associés Inc. à la Commission de la capitale nationale. 53 p. et annexes. DEL DEGAN, MASSÉ ET ASSOCIÉS INC Plan de conservation des écosystèmes du parc de la Gatineau. Rapport présenté par Del Degan, Massé et Associés Inc. à la Commission de la capitale nationale. 120 p. et annexes. TROUTET, Y Climbing on the Eardley Escarpment.

9 APPENDIX MAP 2 Locations of Rock Climbing Sites

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