High Performance Ingredients Workbook School of Natural Skincare For personal use only.

Transcription

1 1 High Performance Ingredients Workbook

2 Contents List Page Page Page 2 Introduction 3 Specialist & Macerated Carrier Oils 12 Tinctures 23 Health, Safety & Storage 3 Specialist Carrier Oils 12 Glycerol Extracts 25 Vitamins & Nutrients 4 Borage 13 Glossary of Terms 26 Vitamin E 4 Kiwi Seed Oil 14 Co-enzyme Q10 4 Olive Squalane 15 D-Panthenol / Panthenol (Provitamin B5) 5 Pomegranate Seed Oil 16 Rosehip Oil 17 Hydrolyzed Proteins 6 Sea Buckthorn Oil 18 Botanical Extracts 7 Macerated Oils 19 Essential Oils 7 Calendula Infused Oil 20 Hydrosols 8 Carrot Tissue Infused Oil 21 Aloe Vera 9 St John s Wort Infused Oil 22 Allantoin 10 CO2 Extracts 11

3 Introduction 3 High performance ingredients are those with high quantities of vitamins, nutrients, essential fatty acids, and active botanical compounds that play an active role in maintaining healthy skin. High performance ingredients include specific vitamins and nutrients, hydrolyzed proteins, botanical extracts & infusions (essential oils, hydrosols, aloe vera, specialist carrier oils, macerated oils, CO2 extracts, tinctures, and glycerol extracts). High performance ingredients are highly concentrated, potent ingredients and only used in low levels. They make up a small % of your formula and foundation ingredients, such as carrier oils, are used as carrier substances to deliver the ingredient to the skin. The combination of these ingredients enables natural skincare formulators to be more creative in the design of much more effective products with far more nutrients and wider reaching therapeutic properties, for specific skin types, conditions, complaints and infections; all for a reasonable price. Special mention needs to be given to cosmeceuticals. Cosmeceutical is combination of the terms cosmetic and pharmaceutical. It refers to biologically active ingredients that have a pharmaceutical benefit on the skin. They fall somewhere between a drug and a cosmetic as they show greater therapeutic effects than cosmetics but fall short of the definition of drug by the FDA. Some cosmeceuticals are available and easy to use by the homecrafter and some not. Antioxidants are an example of a cosmeceutical that is readily available and easy to use. For more information see Cosmeceutical Agents: A Comprehensive Review of the Literature, Thomas C. Tsai, BS and Basil M. Hantash. Health, Safety & Storage Please always refer to the manufacturers or suppliers suggested usage rates when using high performance ingredients as they can be very concentrated and only small amounts are required to be effective. Keep a copy of the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for each ingredient you use and refer to it for guidance on safety and storage.

4 Vitamins and Nutrients 4 Vitamin E Function Oil or water soluble Products Used In Tocopherol An antioxidant Oil Anhydrous and emulsions. Serums, oils, creams, lotions An antioxidant that extends the shelf life of oils and products when used at as little as 0.5% Sunflower and soya are good sources of natural vitamin E Stimulates local blood circulation, promotes the softening and moisturizing of the skin, improves the barrier repair function and the skin s defense mechanisms, regulates the elasticity of the skin and fights against free radicals which attack the skin. Great for al skin types, especially sensitive, infected, irritated and mature/aging skin Softens and smooths wrinkles as well as fine lines, boost moisture and hydration and helps to delay the inevitable signs of aging Co-enzyme Q10 Function Oil or water soluble Products Used In Ubiquinone Produces cellular energy. Stimulates circulation, boosts oxygenation and is an antioxidant Water Creams and lotions, toners and face masks

5 It is a small molecule that is easily absorbed into the skin cells. The body naturally produces CoQ10 but from about the age of 30 the amount that is produced starts to decline. We therefore need to find it from the outside world either in our diet or as a topical application which is why it is very valuable in natural skincare preparations. Boosts energy in the cells, provides some UV protection, helps to boost the barrier repair function, keeps the cells hydrated and moisturized and and fights free radicals that attack the skin. Supports, protects and repairs collagen and elastin found in the dermis and helps to smooth fine lines and wrinkles, thereby delaying the signs of aging. 5 D-Panthenol / Panthenol (Provitamin B5) Function Oil or water soluble Products Used In Panthenol Humectant Water Water based products, emulsions. A humectant; attracts water from the atmosphere to our skin which improves the hydration of our stratum corneum. Decreases trans-epidermal water loss, thereby helping keep skin moisturized. Helps maintain skin softness and elasticity Regenerates skin tissue which is helpful for cuts, wounds, sores, chapped skin, eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis, rashes, acne, and spots as well as smoothing wrinkles and fine lines. Promotes skin barrier repair Useful for dry, damaged, chapped, broken and inflamed or irritated skin as well as mature/aging skin. Wonderful addition to creams and lotions

6 Hydrolyzed Proteins 6 Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Silk Protein Function Oil or water soluble Products Used In Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Silk Amino Acids Humectants, emollients, and film formers Water Emulsions. Add to heated water phase. As humectants, emollients and film formers they attract moisture to the skin, keeping it hydrated and moisturized, soft and smooth. This boosts the skin s protection and barrier repair functions and helps the process of skin cell regeneration and renewal. Improves the feel of creams and lotions on the skin and encourages a silky soft effect. Assists with the smoothing wrinkles and fine lines and therefor delaying the inevitable signs of aging. Suitable for all skin types especially dry, damaged, broken, chapped, sensitive and mature/aging skin.

7 Botanical Extracts (Active Botanicals) Botanical extracts are concentrated plant materials carrying therapeutic properties and are extracted through a variety of methods; steam distillation, solvent extraction, CO2 extraction, cold pressing, oil infusion, alcohol infusion and glycerol extracts. These specialist ingredients include essential oils, aloe vera, hydrosols, CO2 extracts, specialist carrier oils, macerated carrier oils and tinctures. 7 Essential Oils Essential oils possess strong therapeutic properties for the healing and nourishment of the skin, need to be handled with care, respect and attention following the safety & storage advice and can be used to great effect to boost the entire system. They work with the body to cleanse, clean, and hydrate the body s systems, improve our moods, lift the emotions, balance nervous impulses and hormone secretions, enhance metabolism and improve the general functions of individual organs as well as entire body systems (skin, circulation, digestion, elimination, respiration, and reproduction). They combat stress and tension and encourage the body to slow down and relax, rest and unwind as well as promote positive emotions, feelings and thoughts. They help to kill harmful microbes and fight infections, stimulate and boost general immunity, eliminate waste and balance water and electrolytes, and, among many other things, they encourage healthy cellular renewal and growth. They are are oil soluble ingredients and therefore work well in all oil based natural skincare products and emulsions. If a heating method is required to make your products e.g. balms and creams, essential oils should be added at the end as the product cools, before they solidify. In short, essential oils possess many qualities and therapeutic properties that nourish, replenish, regenerate, soften and smooth the skin and more importantly, when talking about natural skincare, it s also important to look at the whole to consider the state of mind, emotions, body and spirit because they also affect the quality of the skin and the effectiveness of its function. It is here that essential oils have the most special and unique action. To find out more about essential oils, please refer to the Essential Oils Workbook.

8 Hydrosols Hydrosols are also known as hydrolats, herbal waters, floral waters or flower waters and they can be used to great effect in face washes, mouth washes, compresses, perfumes, toners and spritzers, oil burners/ diffusers and pot pouris and because they are water, and therefore water soluble, in creams and lotions (as the water or during the water phase). They are not as highly concentrated as essential oils are which has its positives and negatives. Their therapeutic action is mild, which has its benefits especially for people with sensitivities, and their aromatic quality is light but definitive making them very useful and versatile. They are not highly concentrated chemical compounds and therefore safe to use, rarely cause irritation or infection. They are not volatile and because they are a water-based substance, they are not flammable. Their therapeutic action and aromatic qualities are far less pronounced than essential oils and it is essential oils that offer much stronger and far reaching therapeutic abilities. They also differ from essential oils because they contain the water soluble ingredients of plant materials, whereas essential oils contain the oil soluble ingredients. The shelf life of water is usually around 5-7 days because water is a breeding ground for bacteria but a hydrosol has a shelf life of around 4-6 weeks, especially if it is kept in the fridge. Some popular hydrosols are Rose, Geranium, Orange Blossom, Ylang Ylang, Lavender, Rosemary, Chamomile, Melissa, and Peppermint. 8

9 Aloe Vera 9 Chemical Properties: Therapeutic Properties Quality & Absorption Rate: Skin Type: Shelf Life: Aloe Barbadensis 99.5% water + polysaccharides, anthraquinones, amino acids, quinones, glycosides, minerals, flavones, and salicylic acid Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, anti-itching, antioxidant, and humectant Depends on the form you buy - juice, gel, cream, powder, butter or extract etc. Check with your supplier All skin types especially dry, damaged, broken, sensitive and mature skin Depends on the form you buy - juice, gel, cream, powder, butter or extract etc. Check with your supplier Aloe Vera is water soluble so works well in toners, spritzers, face washes, mouth gargles and compresses as well as creams and lotions (during the water phase). With exceptionally strong and powerful skin preserving and healing qualities, aloe vera heals cuts, wounds, sores, scars and burns, alleviates itching and inflammation, soothes chapped, broken and sensitive skin, reduces water loss, moisturizes and with good antioxidant qualities, it combats the early signs of aging to smooth wrinkles and fine lines. Here is a summarized breakdown of the properties that are provided by the key chemical constituents Polysaccharides hydrating, emollient, anti-inflammatory and create a barrier on the skin Anthraquinones antimicrobial and some are antioxidant Glycosides anti-allergens and cell regenerators Phytosterols reduce inflammation and itching, moisturize the skin, and reduce trans-epidermal water loss Flavones good antioxidants that fight free radicals

10 Allantoin 10 Function Oil or water soluble Products Used In Allantoin Keratolytic (skin softening), cell prolifieration, humectant Water. Emulsions. Add to heated water phase. Occurs naturally in Aloe Vera and Comfrey. Allantoin is keratolytic, meaning it interacts with keratin to thin an abnormally thickened stratum corneum. This has a softening effect and creates smooth feeling skin. Allantoin promotes cell proliferation therefore useful for many types of skin healing and delaying the signs of aging. It is anti-inflammatory and an emollient which helps to treat inflamed and irritated skin, dry and damaged skin. A humectant which means it attracts water and binds it to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and moisturized. Use at 0.5% in the heated water phase of creams. Ensure it dissolves well or it can cause a gritty texture. Treatment of psoriasis, dermatitis, chapped lips, after sun as well as cuts and sores or grazes.

11 11 CO2 Extracts CO2 Extracts are very highly concentrated chemical compounds created by extracting nutritious plant materials through carbon dioxide extraction. This method of extraction has some significant advantages not least because the result creates a vastly more concentrated solution with significantly more nutrients than distillation, solvent extraction, cold expression or oil or alcohol infusion. Low temperatures are used which creates a closer biological and chemical match to the plant that it comes from i.e. some nutrients are lost during a heating process which also changes the chemical structure to varying degrees. No solvent residue exists because solvents are not used making the solution less toxic and safer to use. Like essential oils, the extract is highly concentrated as apposed to carrier oils which, by comparison, are not. The extraction process is relatively quick, cheap, safe (when you are qualified and know how) and easy to do. CO2 is also consider and recognized as a safe food grade solvent. They are oil soluble and therefore easy to use when making oil based natural skincare products and emulsions. In short, a better quality product with many more nutrients can be created at a reasonably cheap price because you only need to use extremely small amounts of the extract for it to have the desired effects i.e. 1-2% per extract to a maximum of 5% of the entire product; a little goes a long way. Here are some examples of some excellent CO2 extracts that you can buy. Rosehip CO2 Extract Rosa canina Seed Extract (CO2) Blackcurrant CO2 Extract Ribes nigrum Extract (CO2) Calendula CO2 Extract Calendula officinalis Extract (CO2) Chamomile CO2 Extract Matricaria chamomilla Extract (CO2) Cranberry Seed CO2 Extract Oxycoccus palustris Extract (CO2) Evening Primrose CO2 Extract Oenothera biennis Extract (CO2) Raspberry Seed CO2 Extract Rubus idaeus Extract (CO2) Sea Buckthorn Pulp CO2 Extract Hippophae rhamnoides Pulp Extract (CO2) Rosemary Antioxidant CO2 Extract Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil (and) Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract (CO2)

12 Specialist & Macerated Carrier Oils 12 Carrier Oils Carrier oils possess nutrients, vitamins and minerals that are required by our cells to function properly and by using the right fats and oils in their various forms (oil, butter and wax) we can alleviate infections, symptoms, and conditions, improve skin complexion, repair damage, regenerate, tone, protect, hydrate and moisturize the skin and delay the signs of aging. Put simply, carrier oils contain essential fatty acids, vitamins and minerals that feed, nourish and hydrate our skin. They are obviously oil soluble ingredients and therefore suitable for all oil based natural skincare products and emulsions. For more information about the benefits of carrier oils, please refer to the Carrier Oils Workbook. Specialist Carrier Oils Specialist carrier oils are those carrier oils that possess extremely high amounts of particularly high performance nutrients, by comparison, which distinguishes them apart from all others. That is not to say that the others are any less valuable because they are, it just means that they are especially good for the treatment of specific conditions or unique cases and that they are of much higher value making them a high end ingredient for a high end, very specialized product. They are obviously oil soluble ingredients and therefore suitable for all oil based natural skincare products and emulsions. Some examples of specialist carrier oils are Borage Seed Oil, Kiwi Seed Oil, Olive Squalane, Pomegranate Seed Oil, Rosehip Seed Oil, Sea Buckthorn Oil.

13 Borage Oil 13 Extraction: Borago officinalis Cold pressing the seeds Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 9-11%, stearic acid 3-4%, oleic acid 15-20%, palmitoleic acid 0.5%, eicosenoic acid 4-5%, erucic acid 4-5% Quality & Absorption Rate: Skin Type: Shelf Life: Light and short oil. Easily absorbed. Absorbed quickly. Suitable for all skin types especially dry, sensitive and mature skin 6 months shelf life - or 1-2 years with added vitamin E Extremely useful in skin preparations especially of the face. For massage use in low dilutions alongside other longer oils. It is rich in GLA (an omega 6 fatty acid) which helps the skin to retain moisture, prevents it from drying and increases the skin cells ability to absorb oxygen. It has great skin rejuvenation, anti-aging, scar treatment abilities which makes borage useful for the treatment of eczema and psoriasis as well as burns and open wounds such as cuts and grazes Very effective in anti-aging preparations to smooth wrinkles, replenish the complexion, alleviate dark shadows and fine lines around the eyes. Improves skin cell elasticity and holds onto moisture keeping the skin hydrated and moisturized. With combination skin, borage helps to bring better tone, cleanse, hydrate and remove toxins, encouraging a glowing complexion. NOTES:

14 Kiwi Seed Oil 14 Extraction: Fatty Acid Profile: Quality & Absorption Rate: Skin Type: Shelf Life: Actinidia chinensis / deliciosa Cold pressing the seeds Palmitic acid 5%, stearic acid 3%, oleic acid 11%, linoleic acid 15%, alpha linolenic acid 60-65%, 80% Vitamin F (omega 3 & 6), vitamin E Thin dry oil, easily absorbed by the skin. Fast-Medium absorption rate. All skin types especially sensitive, damaged, infected, oily or acne prone skin 6 month shelf life - adding vitamin E will prolong the shelf life for up to 2 years A rich source of essential fatty acids and vitamins E and F boost cell regeneration, improve skin barrier repair, lock in moisture and encourage greater hydration of the skin cells. Kiwi seed oil is excellent in skincare preparations which help to heal the skin and combat specific conditions including, but not limited to, eczema, psoriasis, cuts, wounds, inflammation and soreness as well as acne or spots. Its hydrating, moisturizing, regenerating and replenishing qualities make kiwi seed oil a must have for anti-aging skincare products especially because it is thin, light and easily absorbed by the skin. It s moisturizing and hydrating qualities make it a good choice for dry skin and the fact that it is a dry oil also means it can be useful for oily skin - it is absorbed quickly, helps the removal of dirt, grease and grime and feeds the skin cells with nutrients that are required. This also encourages a glowing complexion. NOTES:

15 Squalane (Olive) Extraction: Fatty Acid Profile: Quality & Absorption Rate: Skin Type: Shelf Life: Squalane (Olive) Unknown Light oil. Fast absorption rate. All skin types, oily, dry, sensitive and mature 2 years 15 Our skin s natural lubricant is called sebum and approximately 10-15% of that is squalane. As we grow older, we produce less squalane and finding a way of replacing it is very helpful. Olive squalane is very similar to our own so it is just about the perfect solution. It penetrates the skin very quickly and very deeply, improves elasticity and moisturizes It has cytophylactic qualities which boost skin cell regeneration and skin barrier repair function helping to keep the skin feeling soft, smooth and provides a glowing complexion. As an emollient it softens and smooths the skin and as a humectant it attracts water from the surrounding area to the skin which helps to keep it hydrated and nourished. Excellent for anti-aging skincare preparations; reduction of fine lines and dark shadows, tired and grey looking skin. It leaves a very silky feeling on the skin and as great in serums as an alternative to silicones. Great in face creams, eye creams, lip balms and glosses as well as facial serums. NOTES:

16 Pomegranate Oil Extraction: Punica granatum Cold pressing the seeds 16 Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 2%, stearic acid 1-2%, oleic acid 5-6%, linoleic acid 7%, punicic acid 70-75% Quality & Absorption Rate: Skin Type: Shelf Life: Light oil. Medium absorption rate. Dry, damaged, chapped, sensitive and mature skin 12 months - add vitamin E oil to increase the shelf life A good anti-inflammatory agent that also possesses good antimicrobial qualities, pomegranate seed oil is very useful in all kinds of irritated skin conditions from wounds and cuts, to burns and sunburns. With strong hydrating, skin cell regenerating, softening and moisturizing qualities is excellent in the treatment of mature, aging, dry and chapped skin and it may also help to smooth wrinkles and delay the signs of aging. It is a very expensive oil but can be very effective so perhaps its best to use it as 5-15% of your entire formulation. NOTES:

17 Rose Hip Oil 17 Extraction: Fatty Acid Profile: Quality & Absorption Rate: Skin Type: Shelf Life: Rosa rubiginosa Cold pressing the rose hips Palmitic acid 3-8%, stearic acid 2%, oleic acid 13-19%, plamitoleic acid 1%, eicosenic acid 1%, linoleic acid 44-48%, alpha linolenic acid 25-36%. Vitamin A (tretinoin) Vitamin E, vitamin F (omega 3 & 6) Light and dry oil. Fast absorption rate All skin types especially mature, sensitive, oily skin and damaged skin 6 months shelf life years with added vitamin E Rosehip is the only vegetable oil to naturally contain tretinoin (a form of vitamin A) which helps to repair damaged skin and scars, alleviate acne, and reduce wrinkles. It is also a fantastic natural source of essential fatty acids (omega 3 and 6 - vitamin F) which assist with skin regeneration, repair and healing. Rosehip is therefore one of the best oils to use, on its own or in blends, for healing specific skin conditions such as burns, cuts, wounds, damage following radiation therapy, acne prone skin, skin with larger pores, eczema and psoriasis. It is also one of the best anti-aging oils and helps to smooth wrinkles, soften and hydrate the skin, alleviating the immediate signs of aging. NOTES:

18 Sea Buckthorn Oil 18 Extraction: Hippophae rhamnoides Cold pressing the seeds and the pulp Fatty Acid Profile: Palmitic acid 35%, stearic acid 1%, oleic acid 10%, plamitoleic acid 36%, linoleic acid 1%, nervonic acid 1%. Vitamin E Quality & Absorption Rate Skin Type: Shelf Life: Thick and fatty oil. Medium-Fast absorption rate. All skin types - dry, oily, sensitive and mature 1 year Improves skin barrier function and repair, regenerates skin cells, reduces trans-epidermal water loss, retains moisture, softens and smoothes the skin which make it an excellent aid in the healing of wounds and cuts, softening of hard tissue, smoothing out of fine lines and wrinkles, hydrating and moisturizing both oily and dry skin without leaving a greasy layer. An anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial agent that combats dry, sensitive, infected and irritated patches of skin make it useful for just about any skin complaint as well as type - eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis, ringworm, athlete s foot, acne. Sea Buckthorn has also demonstrated strong qualities for healing burns, sunburn, burn from a heat source (fire) as well as radiation burns. Could be used to good effect with Rosehip, Kukui Nut, and Rice Bran Oil here. It contains good antioxidant properties which make it an important part of maintaining a youthful complexion by fighting against free radicals and delaying the signs of aging. Its an expensive oil, with a strong colour and odour so best used in small amounts, 1-10% of a blend. NOTES:

19 19 Macerated Carrier Oils Macerated carrier oils are made by infusing plant material in another carrier oil, normally because the nutrients cannot be obtained from cold pressing a kernel, nut or seed. For example, Calendula Oil and St John s Wort Oil come from infusing the flowers of the Calendula or St John s Wort and Carrot Tissue Oil comes from infusing the actual tissue of the carrot. The process is quite simple; Place the dried plant material in a jar filling it to about 1/3 full; Make sure you press the plant material down so that it is compact; Pour in the chosen base oil so that the jar is full; Put the lid on the jar and seal it tightly; Shake the contents for approximately 1 minute; Store in a cool, dark and dry place away from direct sunlight, heat and water; If you can remember, shake it gently everyday for 4-6 weeks; When 4-6 weeks has passed, take the top from the container. Strain the oil and plant material through a sieve and muslin cloth into a bowl that is big enough to catch the oil. Collect the plant material in the muslin cloth and dispose of it accordingly; Bottle, store and use the oil infusion that is left. The oil soluble ingredients found in the plant material are infused into the oil used to macerate which means that the oil you have bottled and stored is the macerated oil containing nutrients of both the oil used to infuse and the plant material. They are obviously oil soluble ingredients and therefore suitable for all oil based natural skincare products and emulsions. The base oil that is used for the infusion is usually one of the cheaper, more multi-purpose oils and your selection would depend on the purpose. For example, Sweet Almond Oil is a long oil that takes longer to absorb and is therefore suitable for massage. It can be used to macerate Calendula, St John s Wort, or Carrot making it suitable for massage. Alternatively, Sunflower Oil is a good light and dry oil that is absorbed quickly making it more suitable for application on the skin for it s hydrating, moisturizing and skin preserving qualities, rather than as a massage medium. And finally, Olive Oil is also used because it is a relatively cheap oil that is easy to obtain and it offers more nourishing qualities than Sunflower and Sweet Almond oils, is thicker and easily absorbed. The more expensive, rich or delicate and

20 specialist oils are not generally used to macerate plant material, partly because of the fact that they are far more expensive, partly because they are either very thick and heavy or delicate, and partly because they are simply more specialized. 20 Calendula Infused/Macerated Oil Extraction Fatty Acid Profile: Quality & Absorption Rate: Skin Type: Shelf Life: Calendula officinalis Infusing/macerating the flowers in another oil e.g. cold pressed sunflower oil Palmitic acid 2%, stearic acid 2%, loeic acid 3.1%, linoleic acid 27%, 64% linolenic acid Dry, light and short oil. This will vary depending on base used to macerate, but usually sunflower which is a quickly absorbed oil All skin types especially inflamed, sore, irritated, broken and sensitive skin This will vary depending on the oil used to macerate it e.g. sunflower may only have a shelf life of 6 months. Best to ask the manufacturer, or if you are macerating your own ensure you know the shelf life of the chosen base oil. You can add vitamin E oil to prolong the shelf life. Calendula is a dry oil with good astringent properties due to presence of calendic acid. This is considered an omega 6 fatty acid and makes Calendula very good for oily or acne prone skin as well as mature skin. High content of anti-oxidants come from caretenoids and tocopherols which also provide skin moisturizing and softening properties enabling dry and damaged as well as sensitive skin to benefit from Calendula. A strong anti-inflammatory, anti-bactericidal, antimicrobial and antiseptic agent that helps the skin to repair and heal making it useful for sore, broken, chapped and cracked skin. Great for any skin that is inflamed, sore or irritated.

21 Carrot Tissue Oil Extraction Fatty Acid Profile: Quality & Absorption Rate: Skin Type: Shelf Life: Helianthus annus (and) beta-carotene Infusing/macerating the tissue in another oil e.g. cold pressed sunflower oil Palmitic acid 16%, 2% stearic acid, linoleic acid 60%, linolenic acid 5% Vitamin A This will depend on what base was used to macerate. Sunflower is the main one used and the absorption rate is fast. Check with the supplier. Dry, damaged, sensitive and aging skin. Check the shelf life with your supplier because it will depend on the shelf life of the oil used to macerate. Usually approximately 1 year. 21 Macerated in another oil most commonly sunflower oil which means you get the benefits of both oils together in one. Useful in after-sun products, anti-aging solutions and skincare preparations especially for dry skin Suitable for damaged, sensitive and dry skin. Improves skin cell regeneration and barrier repair, softens and smoothes the skin moisturizes it and helps to alleviate inflammation. Use in lower dilution because it will change the colour of the liquid and potentially, if used in large quantities, the skin! NOTES:

22 St Johns Wort INCI Extraction Fatty Acid Profile: Quality & Absorption Rate: Skin Type: Shelf Life: Contraindications Hypericum perforatum Infusing/macerating the tissue in another oil e.g. cold pressed sunflower oil Refer to the fatty acid profile of the oil used to macerate. Refer to the fatty acid profile of the oil used to macerate. Sensitive, irritated and inflamed skin Check the oil used to macerate. Phototoxic - do not use in sun lotion products. Do not use at least 12 hours before prolonged and direct exposure to the sun. 22 St Johns Wort is a very soothing, replenishing and healing oil that has wide ranging therapeutic properties in addition to those provided by the oil used to make the maceration. Reputed to be antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, anti-itching, antiviral, astringent, rubefacient, a circulatory tonic and cardiac stimulant Eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis, rashes, burns (sunburn included) Bruises, stiff muscles and joints, rheumatism and arthritis, back ache and nerve pains such a sciatica or shingles Replenishing and regenerating for any inflamed, irritated, sore, broken/chapped skin as well as sensitive areas of skin NOTES:

23 Alcohol Tinctures & Glycerol Extracts 23 Alcohol tinctures are very concentrated plant extracts that have been extracted by infusing the plant material in natural alcohol and have a long shelf life i.e. 1-5 years depending the grade and % alcohol used. They are water soluble ingredients which can be used very effectively in toners, masks, spritzers, sprays, perfumes, and scrubs as well as during the water phase of creams and lotions. They are made by infusing the dried plant material in alcohol for 4-6 weeks and the process is quite simple; Place the dried plant material in a jar filling it to about 1/3 full; Make sure you press the plant material down so that it is compact; Pour in the natural alcohol into the jar so that it is full; Put the lid on the jar and seal it tightly; Shake the contents for approximately 1 minute; Store in a cool, dark and dry place away from direct sunlight, heat and water; If you can remember, shake it gently everyday for 4-6 weeks; When 4-6 weeks has passed, take the top from the container. Strain the alcohol and plant material through a sieve and muslin cloth into a bowl that is big enough to catch the alcohol infusion. Collect the plant material in the muslin cloth and dispose of it accordingly; Bottle, store and use the alcohol infusion that is left. Some people prefer not to use tinctures because of the alcohol content which have a drying effect and for those people it is best avoided. But that aside, for those who don t witness the significant drying effect, only a very small amount is required i.e. 1-5% of your total formula. That way other more softening, hydrating and moisturizing ingredients can be used in higher proportions to restrict/inhibit the drying effect. Here are some of the most valuable and commonly used tinctures.

24 Some example of tinctures: 24 Arnica Alcohol, Arnica montana - healing of sprains, bruises and wounds reduces inflammation and alleviates pain. Bumps, bangs, bruises and inflammation. Excellent in compresses, ointments, creams and lotions. Calendula Alcohol, Calendula officinalis - healing of cuts, wounds, sores, scrapes, grazes, rashes, burns and scars. Irritated and inflamed skin. Broken, chapped and sensitive skin. Excellent in creams, lotions, gels, masks, toners, compresses and ointments. Comfrey Leaf Alcohol, Symphytum spp. - excellent cell proliferation qualities therefore healing of cuts, wounds, sores, rashes, scars, and ulcers. Smooths wrinkles, retains moisture. Mature, aging, rough, broken and damaged skin. Excellent in creams, lotions, compresses, mouth washes, masks, gels and ointments. Echinacea Alcohol, Echinacea purpurea - healing for burns, bites, stings, rashes, eczema, psoriasis. Inflamed, infected, sensitive and broken skin. Excellent in creams, lotions, ointments and compresses. Horsetail Alcohol, Equisetum arvense - healing for aches and pains, swollen joints, trapped fluid and oedema, boosts circulation and strengthens the walls of the veins and arteries and used to treat varicose veins. Useful for healing of arthritis, rheumatism, gout, varicose veins, ulcers, and skin infections. Excellent in creams, lotions and ointments. Nettle Alcohol, Urtica dioica - dry and sensitive skin because it is an emollient, cleansing and strengthening and due to antihistamines it is useful for rashes and eczema. Stimulates blood circulation. Excellent in creams, lotions and compresses, gels as well as toners and masks.

25 25 Glycerol extracts (Glycerites) are again very concentrated plant extracts that have been extracted by infusing the plant material in vegetable glycerine. They are water soluble ingredients which can be used very effectively in toners, masks, spritzers, sprays, perfumes, and scrubs as well as in creams and lotions. Glycerol (or glycerine, glycerin) is a thick, syrupy, colorless, liquid with no aroma, is soluble in water and widely used in skincare preparations due to its humectant properties which attracts water to the skin helping to keep it hydrated and moisturized. It is also a useful antioxidant that prolongs the shelf life of the dried and infused plant material for months. A few widely used and highly sought glycerol extracts for natural skincare are as follows. Some example of glycerol extracts: Comfrey Glycerine, Symphytum - excellent cell proliferation qualities therefore useful for healing of cuts, wounds, sores, rashes, scars, and ulcers. Smooths wrinkles, retains moisture. Mature, aging, rough, broken and damaged skin. Excellent in compresses, creams and lotions. Cucumber Glycerine, Cucumis sativus, Aqua. - cleansing, moisturizing and softening for the skin. Replenishes the skin, smooths fine lines, lightens complexion reducing dark shadows. Suitable for sensitive and aging/mature skin. Excellent in toners, face masks and eye gels. Pomegranate Glycerine, Punica granatum - astringent, antioxidant that replenishes the skin, regenerates skin cells, softens and smooths the skin hydrating and moisturizing it. Suitable for all skin types, especially aging/mature, oily and sensitive. Witch Hazel Glycerine, Hamamelis virginiana - astringent and antiseptic. Very good for oily and acne prone skin. Excellent in toners.

26 Glossary of Terms 26 Antibacterial!!! an agent that destroys/kills bacteria Anti-fungal!!!! an agent that kills fungus Anti-inflammatory!!! an agent that alleviates, reduces or removes inflammation Anti-itching!!!! an agent that alleviates itching Anti-infectious!!! an agent that kills infectious microbes, boosts immunity and fights infection Antimicrobial!!! an agent that kills harmful microbes Antioxidant!!!! an agent that delays oxidation and fights free radical damage Antiseptic!!!! an agent that kills bacteria and cleans Astringent!!!! an agent that contracts & tones skin tissues Caretenoids!!!! colourful plant pigments some of which the body can turn into vitamin A and are powerful antioxidants Cicatrisant!!!! an agent that forms a scar tissue Collagen!!!! the key structural protein of connective tissue in animals Cytophylactic!!! an agent that regenerates cells Elastin is a protein in connective tissue that is elastic and allows many tissues in the body to resume their shape after stretching or contracting Emollient!!!! an agent that softens & smoothes the skin Emulsifier!!!! an agent that binds oil and water Humectant!!!! an agent that attracts water from the surrounding atmosphere Keratolytic!!!! interacts with keratin to thin an abnormally thickened stratum corneum., resulting in a skin softening!!!!! effect. Occlusive!!!! an agent that creates a barrier on the skin, therefore preventing trans-epidermal water loss Prophylactic!!! an agent that fights and kills infectious organisms Rubefacient!!!! an agent that stimulates local blood circulation Sedative!!!! an agent that relaxes and/or sedates a function Sebum!!!! a lubricating oil secreted onto the surface of the epidermis by the sebaceous glands to provide, among!!!!! other things, lubrication and protection Stimulating!!!! an agent that reduces cholesterol, improves circulation, alleviates stress and reduces inflammation Trans-epidermal water loss! the loss of water through the the layers of the skin; subcutaneous, dermis and epidermis