right through to innovative state of the art technology. It is what makes Rome so magical

Transcription

1 SHOPPING trail

2 T R I D E N T E & T H E A R E A A R O U N D P I A Z Z A D I S PA G N A Via dei Condotti, Via Frattina, Via Borgognona, Via delle Carrozze, Via Vittoria, Via della Vite 1-2 Via del Babuino 4 Via Margutta 4 P I A Z Z A D E L P O P O L O & V I A D E L C O R S O Via del Corso 5 Galleria Alberto Sordi (formerly the Galleria Colonna) 6 C A M P O M A R Z I O Piazzetta Sant Eustachio 7-8 P I A Z Z A N AV O N A & S U R R O U N D I N G A R E A Via dei Coronari 8 Via del Governo Vecchio, Via dei Banchi Vecchi 9 C A M P O D E F I O R I & A D J A C E N T S T R E E T S Via del Pellegrino, Piazza Campo de fiori, Via dei Giubbonari Via dei Cappellari, Via dei Chiavari, Via di Monserrato, Via delle Botteghe Oscure G H E T T O Via dei Falegnami, Via dei Funari, Portico d Ottavia 12 M O N T I 12 S A N L O R E N Z O 13 O S T I E N S E & G A R B AT E L L A 13 T R A S T E V E R E Porta Portese (market) 13 T H E F L A M I N I O D I S T R I C T A N D T H E A R E A A R O U N D PA R I O L I Borghetto Flaminio (market), P.zza Verdi (market), P.zza Mazzini (market) 15 T H E P R AT I D I S T R I C T Via Ottaviano, Via Cola di Rienzo 15 T H E S A N G I O VA N N I D I S T R I C T Via Appia Nuova, Via Sannio (small market) 15 Rome s countless architectural and historic treasures, its beauty and its amazing cityscapes make an attractive destination for tourists from all over the world. It has practically everything and evidence of its history is all around you, from when it began more than twothousand years ago, right through to innovative state of the art technology. It is what makes Rome so magical and why even a shopping trip is also a journey through culture and art. The trendy shopping areas of Rome are concentrated in the Tridente district and around Piazza di Spagna with its Barcaccia fountain where countless tourists as tradition demands - toss in a coin before heading for some of Rome s most famous shopping streets, of which the via dei Condotti, which has 1

3 featured in several famous films over the years, reigns supreme. Then there is the via Frattina, via Borgognona, via delle Carrozze, via Vittoria and via della Vite, all roads brimming with history and exponents of all that is glamorous and elegant; their tantalising window displays, one shop after another, always attract admiring looks. 2 The world s greatest fashion designers all want their latest collections on display here, and their exquisite clothing, so often admired on the covers of the world s leading fashion magazines, often blurs with the sometimes almost austere architecture of the buildings. The entire area around the square is dotted with the ateliers of the most important Italian and international designers, a bona-fide temple to high fashion. Tourists with a penchant for exclusive fashion items will find oneoff designs here as well as talented tailors and dressmakers offering a topquality personalization service. Shoppers are always enthralled by the opulent windows of the jewellers, interspersed with the ateliers and shops mentioned and others full of exquisite china or artworks. Is our tourist dreaming? Perhaps he was bedazzled by the jewellery that dazzled him, but he thinks that the world s latest favourite diva has just walked past. If, however our tourist is a nostalgic kind of guy, perhaps he thought that he just caught a glimpse of Ava Gardner or Liz Taylor wrapped up in a white fur stole on the via Borgognoma or maybe it was the ever-enduring Sofia Loren. Meanwhile, knowing about all the small shops and studios workshops tucked away in the lanes around the Trevi Fountain - another symbol of the Dolce Vita he is probably already thinking it is time to head there. The statue of the Babuino is likely to make him come to a surprised stop. An ancient statue of the reclining figure of the mythical Silenius, it was deemed so hideous by 16 th century Romans that it was nick-named the Baboon, which is how the street got its current name. Actually, the via del Babuino is an elegant street, once home to famous antique shops 3

4 and others that chose to buck the trends dictated by the world of high fashion, preferring to sell less formal designs. Today, especially since its restyling, various trendy designers have been tempted to set up shop here. Our tourist is bound to see some of the many plaques adorning buildings throughout the area reminders of people who lived there from the 18th century onwards. Not far from the Porta del Popolo which marks the end of the via Flaminia that enters Rome from the north, it comes as no surprise that there are so many artists. Our tourist, now loaded down by a multitude of colourful carrier bags, is bound to notice that the house where poets Keats and Shelley once lived still stands in Piazza di Spagna, and in a moment, he ll discover that Goethe lived on one of Rome s major shopping streets. The via Margutta runs parallel to the via del Babuino. Originally, because the road runs behind the back of the beautiful buildings overlooking via del Babuino and it was and dotted with stables and storehouses, it was where carriages and carts parked up. Since the end of the 18 th century, however, many nicknamed it the road of artists because so many painters, sculptors, antiquarians and the like had established themselves there. Later, in the 1950s, it became popular with people from the world of entertainment. Although various ateliers have now become private homes, the street still retains its bohemian charm as well as its air of being a little road beyond the gates, far away from the smog and chaos of the modern city. It s a good place to shop in art galleries and fashion boutiques and find out a bit about art and ancient Rome at the same time. It is also here that the Exhibition of 100 Painters is staged every autumn. Having been drawn towards the obelisk in Piazza del Popolo, our tourist should definitely sit down at an outside table of one of the square s bars and enjoy an ice-cream or coffee, knowing that it was here that in the 50s and 60s, many famous artists, film directors and writers often did the same thing. Pasolini, Morante, Fellini and Fontana were just a few of those who liked to hold their meetings here. It ll be a welcome rest before he sets off again on the shopping trail. Via del Corso winds its way to Piazza Venezia. Originally called via Lata (wide), the 4 5

5 change to Corso came about because the Berber horses, in Rome to compete in the jousts in the Roman Carnival, used to run its length. Known for its young, colourful and lively fashion, there is a steady ebb and flow of youngsters invading the road and pavements. Shop windows here are filled to bursting with jeans in every style imaginable, trousers in high-tech materials, sweatshirts, trainers and t-shirts, on which some shops will, if asked, print whatever words and images are all the rage at the time. Jackets in technical materials and the latest collections of major casual clothing designers await the groups of youngsters keen to amaze their friends with their latest purchases. Visiting the Alberto Sordi gallery, half way along the road, is a must. The Colonna Gallery is located halfway down the street right in front of the column of Marcus Aurelius standing in the square named after him; the name change, just a few years ago, was an acknowledgement of just how much this great Roman actor was loved by his fellow citizens. The gallery is home to an array of elegant shops selling perfumes, beauty products, accessories and books. Hopefully our tourist will find something he likes, but if he is more of a megastore kind of guy, as there are several along the via del Corso, he has plenty of choice. If not, he can always opt for a classic shirt white, pale blue, striped or checked or a beautifully tailored jacket. Otherwise, he could take a detour and head for the roads around the Campo Marzio, also full of elegant shops that exude charm. Up until the Augustan era, the Campo Marzio represented the heart of the city, but by the Middle Ages it was the district that had the highest concentration of people and in Renaissance times, it became the in place for the nobility to build 6 7

6 the sumptuous palaces - such as the Palazzo Massimo alle Colonne, the Palazzo Borghese and the Palazzo Farnese - that were to become their habitual homes. Moving on, those, who like our tourist discover they like old things will be delighted by the many treasures they find as they wander amidst the Renaissance palaces and Baroque squares that populate this district. Antique hunters really do see this district as a treasure trove, and it is also the right place to taste Rome s most fashionable coffee against the beautiful backdrop of the square dedicated to St. Eustace. Piazza Navona is, quite simply, amazing. There are always street artists there painting portraits against a background featuring one of the square s two beautiful fountains. Just a few steps away, the via dei Coronari boasts an uninterrupted parade of antique shops selling furniture, vases, books, precious marbles, old prints and etchings. Collectors unable to resist a Piranesi or Giovan Battisti Falda landscape, or one of Bartolomeo Pinelli s lively etchings or those who aspire to a romantic painting of the Roman countryside or ancient Roman ruins, will feel as if they have stumbled upon Aladdin s cave. Anyone feeling like a longer walk can carry on to Largo della Fontanella di Borghese, a veritable gold mine for lovers of old prints and books, period magazines and etchings. Not far from Piazza Navona, there are two roads that reveal another of the thousand faces of Rome the via del Governo Vecchio and the via dei Banchi Vecchi. Banchi because this district, adjacent to St. Peter s and the political and economic centre of Rome from the 15 th century onwards, was where the banks were located. Both streets, and others nearby, have retained all the charm and character of the old city. The whole area is full of artisan s workshops and little shops that have deliberately chosen to go against the flow and sell 40s Bakelite costume jewellery or clothes created by young, aspiring designers. Nearby, our tourist will find the via del Pellegrino, named after the Pellegrino inn that welcomed and fed countless pilgrims 8 9

7 heading for St. Peter s, although it was once called the via degli Orefici because of its many goldsmith s shops. The road running along the side of the Palazzo della Cancelleria (the Treasury) was once full of artisans studios, many of which have now disappeared, although the shops that have replaced them have followed their example and sell popular, artisanal and much sought 10 after handmade items, which has helped preserve the character of this and many lanes and alleyways nearby. Here, our tourist might buy handmade items such as small pieces of furniture, picture frames, lamps and the furnishing material found in the homes of the bourgeoisie at the end of the 19th century, but he ll also find clothes, costume jewellery, shoes and bags impossible to find anywhere else created by Roman stylists and artisans. Next our tourist will come upon the characteristic lanes surrounding Campo dei Fiori, the famous, historic square that has always been associated to Rome s working class and dominated by a statue of the philosopher Giordano Bruno who the Romans came to see as a symbol of the freedom of thought. Road names here evoke the past: via dei Cappellari, via dei Chiavari, via di Monserrato and just a bit further on, the via delle Botteghe Oscure. The names are a reminder that each was known for a particular trade including (in order) hat makers, locksmiths and the dark shops that had no windows! Another street, the via dei Giubbonari was famous for its bodice /waistcoat makers - gipponari in dialect. Via di Monserrato is however a bit different as it was the site of the jail established by the powerful Savelli magistrates who practiced their profession in this road and used by them from 1440 to Given the proximity of the ghetto, most of its inmates were 11

8 Jewish. After a brief look at the via dei Falegnami, (carpenters) via dei Funari (rope makers) and Portico d Ottavia, where there are yet more unusual and interesting things to buy, as our tourist has decided shop till he drops, he sets off towards another part of the city. He still has time to look for one-off items of clothing, small boutiques or even the studios occupied by the latest crop of young artists and Monti is the perfect area for this. Not 12 far from the Colosseum and smaller and less touristy than others, it is a blend of modernity and historic charm. There are gems of all kinds waiting for him in its tiny streets and tranquil corners, including craftwork, architecture and fashion. Despite its history as the Suburra of ancient Rome the part of the city reserved for city dwelling plebs who lived in abject misery surrounded by every type of criminal activity, today it is an enclave for young artists and the creative heart of the city. Its streets are often filled with the whirring of a designer s sewing machine, or the tapping of a goldsmith s hammer, but lovers of anything vintage or original will not be disappointed, although the small, attractive shops selling these items are sometimes hidden away between the ups and downs of the road. Monti s history is much like that of all Rome s working class districts, like San Lorenzo, which thanks to the presence of La Sapienza, until a few decades ago Rome s only university, is till the city s primary university district. Ostiense is another such district which also includes Garbatella quarter and it s unusual city garden architecture and many examples of industrial buildings. It was also the setting for many of Ozpetek s films. Today, thanks in part to the younger generations of artists who live there, these are the districts that set the new and more relevant cannons of fashion, music and all the many forms of contemporary art. Porta Portese, Porta Portese! says the song written by a well-known singer-songwriter from Rome in which he pays tribute to the city s most famous and much loved flea market. It is now Sunday morning, and it s not easy to spot our tourist amongst the throngs of people who have invaded the streets where the market is held. He got up early, knowing that the 13

9 market is huge - there are 100s of stalls and he wants to see them all. Actually, he s hoping to make a killing maybe an item of vintage clothing, a painting he s been after for ages, or perhaps even a set of 50s side plates or glasses. Who knows what he ll find? The market appeared in the working class district of Trastevere right after WWII where it carried on the work of the flourishing black market located in Tor di Nona during the dark war years. It is named after the lovely Roman gateway, Porta Portuensis at the end of the ancient, similarly named road that leads to what we now call Fiumicino, known then as Portus. Open every Sunday from 7 in the morning until 2 in the afternoon - it is certainly worth consulting the guidebook! So, there he goes, diving back into the melee, hunting through the stalls selling antiques, costume jewellery and vintage and secondhand clothes mixed up with all kinds of trinkets. It is hard to choose between the paints, objets d art, jewellery and old film flyers and posters with all the pushing and elbowing going on, it almost seems impossible, but we have faith that our tourist will succeed. He stayed in Rome an extra day just so that he could enjoy this experience and then talk about back home and actually we know he did proudly shows off the really beautiful art deco lamp he found! Perhaps he ll have time to dash over to another Sunday market in the Borghetto Flaminio to look at the second-hand clothes, small furnishing items and much more besides, but maybe he will opt for the markets in the more modern settings of Piazza Verdi or Piazza Mazzini and therefore discover yet another aspect of the city. The street names here reflect Rome s more recent history, namely the 20 th century, a period when a more severe style of architecture Umbrian was in vogue. We are sure that our tourist will be returning to Rome soon, and next time he can explore areas he couldn t get to this time and follow the shopping trail from Prati to St. Peter s and from via Ottaviano to that terrestrial paradise full of trendy shops in via Cola di Rienzo and finally, from the via Appia Nuova to via Sannio with its colourful mornings-only daily market where there is more rummaging to be done on stalls selling button-down shirts, army and navy style jackets as well as the ever popular Aran sweaters that will keep you as warm in the winter as the Roman sun in summer

10 SHOPPING trail Pinciano Parioli Piazza Verdi Borghetto Flaminio Prati Via Cola di Rienzo, Via Ottaviano, PiazzaMazzini Trastevere Porta Portese Centro storico, Rione Monti Via Condotti, Via del Corso Piazza di Spagna, Via dei Giubbonari, Via del Boschetto, Galleria Alberto Sordi San Giovanni Via Sannio, Via Appia Nuova

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