autumn 2013 collection technique guide

Transcription

1 a autumn 2013 collection technique guide

2 There is something about modern luxury that makes one yearn for simpler times when people did more with less when people rose with the sun to till, plant, harvest, craft. The autumn 2013 Heart Lands collection gives a nod to farm nostalgia by showcasing hair cut, color and style and makeup looks that emphasize a minimal aesthetic with a high-touch not high-tech approach. This collection features classic cuts, subdued colors, undone styles and raw-chic makeup applications inspired by romantic ruralism and humbly perfected by careful hands. Whether it s a traditional bob, an autumnal russet stain, a windswept style or a ruddy cheek, these looks exhibit a simple beauty that belies their complexity. Take a retrospective journey through this technique guide. Weather its pages, and be reminded of what first inspired you to pursue your craft. Often, the most beautiful things are the most simple. ~ The Aveda Artistic Team

3 table of CONTENTS how to use this guide...1 create the look...2 Winter Peach...3 Timbered Waves...5 Toasted Grains...7 Cropped Wheat...9 Spun Honey...11 Copper Fields...13 complete the look...16 Makeup Tips Makeup Step-By-Steps...18 Tilled Juniper Field Rose Winter Berry complete the look (continued) Hair Styling Variations...21 Pasture Punk...21 Barn Locks Churned Curls Rustic Damsel give the look Undone Techniques...27 appendix Patch Test Guidelines Processing, Rinsing & Botanical Therapy Guidelines Formula Variants... 34

4 how to use this guide The simplicity of the Heart Lands collection inspired a streamlined technique guide that reflects this season s humble trends. FEATURED SECTIONS Create the Look Technical step-by-steps to create the hair cuts, colors and styles in the collection Complete the Look Makeup tips, makeup step-by-steps and hair styling variations Give the Look Undone techniques featured in the collection that are ready to customize for guests SIMPLIFIED LAYOUT 1 Inspiration Beauty image, name and description of featured collection look 2 Techniques Hair cut, color and style step-by-steps to create the look, including formulas, illustrations and photos 3 Artist Quote Inspirational quote from the Aveda Artistic Team hair cut hair color 2 hair style 1 Winter Peach-CUT 1 Section the hair using the natural parting through the top. Take a vertical subsection through the center back. 2 Beginning in the nape, take a diagonal subsection on both sides of the head. Using your comb to secure the hair and minimize tension, elevation and overdirection, create a line at the desired length that mirrors the angle of the subsection. 3 Continue up the head, taking diagonal subsections that alternate from side-to-side. Using a graduated technique, elevate the subsections away from the head, and overdirect them slightly back as you work up the back of the head and toward the sides. Using the previously cut subsection as a guide, cut on the inside of your fingers, mirroring the angle of the subsection. 4 Continue in this manner, maintaining consistent elevation and increasing overdirection as you work up the back and sides of the head. 5 Blow-dry and point-cut to refine the outline. Winter Peach-COLOR 1 Section ORIGINAL the hair as illustrated. Take heavy-density, strong-effect weaves in a half-head pattern, and apply Formula A, feathering the color toward the scalp (see Color Feathering on page 12). Place the foils as illustrated, centered at the point of distribution and following the natural growth pattern. Leave out the nape area. 2 Process, rinse, shampoo and towel-dry. 3 On damp hair, shift the base by applying Formula B from scalp-to-ends on all the hair, including the nape area, using the Aveda Standard Application. 4 Process for 10 minutes. 5 Using a bottle, apply Formula C to all the hair using the Aveda Standard Application. NOTE: Applying highlights first will create dimension when you tone the final color. 6 Process until you achieve the desired level of deposit. 7 Rinse, shampoo and perform the appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment. * mix the look ** Formula A with full spectrum permanent 20 g Extra Lifting Creme 40 ml 30 volume color catalyst Formula B with full spectrum permanent 20 g 10Natural Lightest Blonde 20 g Universal ØN 40 ml 10 volume color catalyst Formula C with full spectrum permanent and deposit-only color treatment 5 g Pure Red 100 ml liquid activator winter PEACH A collarbone-grazing bob with diffused ends gives a grown-out feel while still maintaining a strong shape. Tinges of peach, semi-natural roots and a sleek finish take this rustic look a bit rogue. To give a bob more movement, imagine the strands of hair as a fence. First, you need to create the perimeter with a very strong line. Then, you need to break up the denseness of the perimeter by removing weight and adding space. Ricardo Dinis Aveda Artistic Director, Hair Cutting 1 PREP the hair with color conserve daily color protect and smooth infusion style-prep smoother. 2 STYLE by sectioning the hair into 3 traditional panels. Beginning in the bottom panel, wrap-dry the hair straight to create a smooth, natural finish. Continue until all sections are dry. 3 Apply pure abundance style-prep to dry hair in the 2 bottom panels. Rough-dry the product into the hair to create more volume at the bottom. 4 FINISH with air control hair spray. 3 3 * See page 33 for detailed processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines. ** See page 34 for formula variants

5 CREATE the look

6 hair cut Winter Peach-CUT 1 Section the hair using the natural parting through the top. Take a vertical subsection through the center back. 2 Beginning in the nape, take a diagonal subsection on both sides of the head. Using your comb to secure the hair and minimize tension, elevation and overdirection, create a line at the desired length that mirrors the angle of the subsection. 3 Continue up the head, taking diagonal subsections that alternate from side-to-side. Using a graduated technique, elevate the subsections away from the head, and overdirect them slightly back as you work up the back of the head and toward the sides. Using the previously cut subsection as a guide, cut on the inside of your fingers, mirroring the angle of the subsection. 4 Continue in this manner, maintaining consistent elevation and increasing overdirection as you work up the back and sides of the head. 5 Blow-dry and point-cut to refine the outline. winter PEACH A collarbone-grazing bob with diffused ends gives a grown-out feel while still maintaining a strong shape. Tinges of peach, semi-natural roots and a sleek finish take this rustic look a bit rogue. To give a bob more movement, imagine the strands of hair as a fence. First, you need to create the perimeter with a very strong line. Then, you need to break up the denseness of the perimeter by removing weight and adding space. Ricardo Dinis Aveda Artistic Director, Hair Cutting 3

7 hair color hair style inter Peach-COLOR 1 Section ORIGINAL the hair as illustrated. Take heavy-density, strong-effect weaves in a half-head pattern, and apply Formula A, feathering the color toward the scalp (see Color Feathering on page 12). Place the foils as illustrated, centered at the point of distribution and following the natural growth pattern. Leave out the nape area. 2 Process, rinse, shampoo and towel-dry. 3 On damp hair, shift the base by applying Formula B from scalp-to-ends on all the hair, including the nape area, using the Aveda Standard Application. 4 Process for 10 minutes. 5 Using a bottle, apply Formula C to all the hair using the Aveda Standard Application. NOTE: Applying highlights first will create dimension when you tone the final color. 6 Process until you achieve the desired level of deposit. 7 Rinse, shampoo and perform the appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment. * mix the look ** Formula A with full spectrum permanent 20 g Extra Lifting Creme 40 ml 30 volume color catalyst Formula B with full spectrum permanent 20 g 10Natural Lightest Blonde 20 g Universal ØN 40 ml 10 volume color catalyst Formula C with full spectrum permanent and deposit-only color treatment 5 g Pure Red 100 ml liquid activator 1 PREP the hair with color conserve daily color protect and smooth infusion style-prep smoother. 2 STYLE by sectioning the hair into 3 traditional panels. Beginning in the bottom panel, wrap-dry the hair straight to create a smooth, natural finish. Continue until all sections are dry. 3 Apply pure abundance style-prep to dry hair in the 2 bottom panels. Rough-dry the product into the hair to create more volume at the bottom. 4 FINISH with air control hair spray. * See page 33 for detailed processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines. ** See page 34 for formula variants. 4

8 hair cut Timbered Waves-CUT 1 Create a triangular section as illustrated. 2 Beginning in the back, take a vertical subsection, and cut on the inside of your fingers to create a line that follows the natural curve of the head. 3 Using a graduated technique, cut the hair to an appropriate length. 4 Take the next subsection on a slight diagonal, and overdirect it to the previous. 5 Work from the center back to the recession point. As you work toward the sides, elevate each subsection slightly, removing more weight through the parietal ridge but leaving the hair soft at the hairline. Continue in this manner until you have cut all hair in this area. 6 Rotate hand position, and repeat on the opposite side. 7 Beginning in the front, create a new guide by taking curved, horizontal subsections. Direct the first subsection downward on the face with slight elevation. Angle your fingertips away from the face to create maximum length in the center of the fringe, and cut a curved line that tapers toward the sides of the head but remains disconnected. 8 Continue taking curved, horizontal subsections, overdirecting them to the previous and elevating higher as you work toward the back of the head. NOTE: When using a higher elevation through the top of the head, work on top of your fingers. When using a lower elevation through the sides, work on the inside of your fingers. 9 Rotate hand position, and repeat on the opposite side. Connect both sides through the top of the head, and round off any corners. 10 Blow-dry and refine the hair cut using a twist-cut technique through the top and sides. timbered WAVES A strong hair cut sets the foundation for color and style, both of which pay homage to naturally curly hair in this look a color slicing technique, beautiful side part and finger-wave set emphasize natural curl. 5

9 hair color Timbered Waves-COLOR ORIGINAL hair style 1 Section the hair from ear to ear and down the center back for control. 2 Beginning in the back section, take medium-density, medium-effect weaves as illustrated in a triangular pattern under the point of distribution, alternating Formulas A and B in an A-B-A pattern and isolating with foil. 3 At the top of the back section, apply Formula B to a single slice. 4 In the front section, working front-to-back, take slices in sets of 3 as illustrated, beginning at the front hairline and alternating Formulas A and B in an A-B-A pattern. Isolate with foil. NOTE: In each foil, feather the color toward the scalp (see Color Feathering on page 12). 5 When foils are complete, apply Formula C to all the remaining hair. 6 Process, rinse, shampoo and perform the appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment. * mix the look ** Formula A with full spectrum permanent 20 g 7Natural Medium Blonde 4 g Light Blue/Blue 20 ml 20 volume color catalyst Formula B with full spectrum permanent 20 g 8Natural Light Blonde 3 g Light Yellow/Orange 20 ml 30 volume color catalyst Formula C with full spectrum permanent 40 g Universal ØN 5 g Pure Yellow 40 ml 5 volume color catalyst Formula A Formula B This multi-directional foiling technique casts beautiful shadows on wavy or curly hair. The interplay of warm golds and cool neutrals shows off her natural texture while creating the illusion of sun-lightened hues. Ian Michael Black, Aveda Artistic Director, Hair Color 1 PREP the hair with color conserve daily color protect. 2 STYLE by layering be curly curl controller and confixor liquid gel into the hair. 3 Create a deep side part, and perform a traditional finger-wave set, following the hair s natural curl pattern. 4 When the waves are 100% dry, finger-comb them into the desired shape and texture. 5 FINISH with brilliant spray-on shine and air control hair spray. * See page 33 for detailed processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines. ** See page 34 for formula variants. 6

10 hair cut Toasted Grains-CUT 1 Section the hair vertically from the front hairline to the nape, dividing the head into 2 halves. Take 2 horizontal subsections on both sides of the head, and clip the remaining hair aside. 2 Stand directly behind the guest. Beginning in the back, take horizontal subsections, and cut on the inside of your fingers to create a line that mirrors the angle of the section at a length below the shoulder. Cut with moderate tension, zero elevation and on the inside of your fingers, leaving a square perimeter. 3 Continue cutting a 1-length shape through the back and sides of the head until you have completed the near-final shape. 4 Stand facing the side of the guest, and section the top of the head as illustrated, using the perimeters as a guide. Take diagonal subsections that radiate around the top of the head, and cut on top of your fingers to create a concave layer on the exterior of the hair as illustrated. 5 Continue in this manner around the head, standing directly in front of the section you are working on. 6 Blow-dry and texturize to refine and personalize the hair cut. toasted GRAINS The beauty and symmetry of this one-length hair cut are amplified by a rich, russet gloss and a basic wrap-dry to emphasize the hair s natural fall a simply perfect look that radiates bold sophistication. 7

11 hair color hair style Toasted Grains-COLOR ORIGINAL 1 Section the hair as illustrated. In section 1, apply Formula A from scalp-to-ends, and isolate with foil. 2 In section 2, beginning at front hairline, take exaggerated, vertical, back-to-back, zig-zag slices approximately 1" wide. On the first slice, apply Formula A from scalp-to-ends. On the second slice, apply Formula A at the scalp, color melting into Formula B from mid-lengths-to-ends. Isolate in foil. Continue to the center back. Repeat slices on the opposite side. 3 In section 3, working parallel to the hairline, repeat the step 2 application, color melting Formula A into Formula C on every third slice as illustrated. 4 In the top section, repeat the step 2 application with diagonal, zig-zag slices. 5 Process, rinse, shampoo and blow-dry. 6 Apply Formula D to all the hair. 7 Process, rinse, shampoo and perform the appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment. * Formula A at the scalp Formula A color melted into Formula B Formula A color melted into Formula C mix the look ** Formula A with full spectrum deep 10 g 2Natural Dark Brown 10 g 4Natural Light Brown 40 ml 5 volume color catalyst Formula B with full spectrum deep 20 g 10Natural Lightest Blonde 6 g Light Red/Red 52 ml 20 volume color catalyst Formula C with full spectrum deep 20 g 12Natural Extra Light Blonde 40 ml 20 volume color catalyst Formula D Formula with A full at the spectrum scalp deep 20 g Universal ØN Formula 10 A color g Light melted Red/Red into Formula 30 ml B5 volume color catalyst Formula A color melted into Formula C 1 PREP the hair with pure abundance style-prep. 2 STYLE by applying volumizing tonic and wrap-drying the hair straight using a Mason Pearson brush. 3 FINISH by pinning the hair back with a bobby pin and applying control force firm hold hair spray. * See page 33 for detailed processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines. ** See page 34 for formula variants. 8

12 hair cut Cropped Wheat-CUT 1 Section the hair from below the parietal ridge to just below the occipital ridge as illustrated. Clip the section aside. 2 Stand directly in front of the section you are working on. Beginning at the front hairline, take diagonal subsections, and cut on the inside of your fingers to remove bulk. Retain some softness along the hairline. 3 Continue through the sides using a scissor-over-comb technique, shortening and refining the hair cut. 4 Rotate hand position, and repeat on the opposite side. 5 Comb through the top section, allowing it to fall at the natural parting. Stand facing the side of the guest. Take diagonal subsections beginning at the crown to the front hairline that radiate around the center top of the head. Cut each subsection on top of your fingers to create a concave layer on the interior of the hair. Once you reach the center back, repeat on the opposite side. 6 Refine the outline. Blow-dry and texturize to refine and personalize the hair cut. cropped WHEAT Beautiful yet breakaway, this multi-faceted hair cut preserves the hair s length and femininity while giving it an edge. The graphic roll is a rural take on the traditional braid that exposes the short sides and darker undercolor. The bottom of a hair cut functions much like the underbody of a car. When it s removed and the weight is gone, the structure changes. Using scissors rather than clippers on this undercut creates a structure that conveys both strength and softness. Ricardo Dinis Aveda Artistic Director, Hair Cutting 9

13 LOR ORIGINAL hair color eat-color ORIGINAL 1 Section the hair as illustrated, and clip the top 2 sections aside. eat-color ORIGINAL NOTE: Section 1 is the undercut. In section 1, apply Formula A to all the hair, and isolate with foil. 2 In section 2, beginning at the front hairline, take vertical slices (60% of the hair), and apply Formula B to the bottom 3 4" of the hair using a color tipping technique. On every third slice, apply Formula B from mid-lengths-to-ends (see detailed Color Tipping Technique illustration). Work to the center back. Repeat on the opposite side. 3 Apply Formula C to the uncolored hair in section 2. 4 In the top section, working front-to-back, apply Formula D in heavy-density, fine-effect weaves as illustrated, highlighting 80% of the hair. Isolate with foil. 5 When foils are complete in top section, apply Formula E to all the remaining hair. 6 Process, rinse, shampoo and perform the appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment. * Formula A 2 2 Formulas B & C Formula A Formulas Formula D & Formulas AE B & C Formulas Formulas D B & E C Formulas D & E * See page 33 for detailed processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines. ** See page 34 for formula variants. 2 2 Color Tipping Technique Color Tipping Technique Color Tipping Technique Color Tipping Technique mix the look ** Formula A with full spectrum deposit-only color treatment 20 g 4Natural Light Brown 20 ml creme activator Formula B with enlightenment blonding 1 scoop enlightener powder lightener 60 ml 5 volume color catalyst Formula C with full spectrum deposit-only color treatment 20 g 6Natural Dark Blonde 20 ml creme activator Formula D with full spectrum permanent 20 g 9Natural Very Light Blonde 2 g Light Blue/Blue 20 ml 20 volume color catalyst Formula E with full spectrum permanent 40 g Universal ØN 40 ml 5 volume color catalyst hair style 1 PREP the hair with pure abundance style-prep. 2 STYLE by applying volumizing tonic and blow-drying the hair straight, working upward and away from the face. 3 Divide the hair into 2 sections with a center parting. Comb the sides up to expose the undercut. Place a row of hair pins above the parietal ridge at the desired height on both sides of the center parting. 4 Beginning at the front of one side, roll the hair under tightly, following the row of pins and adding hair as you work backward to just below the occipital ridge. Secure the roll with elastic cord. 5 Repeat the roll on the opposite side, and secure with elastic cord. 6 FINISH by taming flyaways on the top and sides with control force firm hold hair spray. 10

14 hair cut Spun Honey-CUT spun HONEY Bobs are the little black dress of hair. They can be soft or hard, symmetrical or asymmetrical, simple or complex. A honeyed hue and a double dose of volume help this bob boast a stoic softness. 1 Divide the top of the head using the natural parting. Divide the back of the head down the middle, and subdivide as illustrated. Clip the nape sections aside. 2 Stand directly behind the guest. Beginning in section 1, take horizontal subsections. Holding the hair as illustrated, cut a guide on the inside of your fingers. Repeat in section 2. 3 Work upward, taking horizontal subsections, elevating and overdirecting them to the previous to create a graduated effect at the back of the head. 4 Work toward sections 3 and 4. Using the previously cut subsection from the crown as a guide, continue taking horizontal subsections, elevating 90, overdirecting them toward the crown and cutting on top of your fingers. 5 In the nape, take diagonal subsections, and cut on the inside of your fingers. Using the length from sections 1 and 2 as a reference, create a new guide that allows the hair to become shorter in the nape. Continue taking diagonal subsections and overdirecting them to the previous. Once you reach the curve of the head, pull all remaining hair back to this stationary guide. 6 Rotate hand position, and repeat on the opposite side. 7 In the front, begin on the left side of the natural parting. Take diagonal subsections, and direct them back to the stationary guide as illustrated. On the right side, pull each diagonal subsection back to the transition point at the crown, and follow it downward to connect the remaining hair to the guide in the back. Cut with moderate tension on the inside of your fingers, creating a blunt line. 8 Blow-dry and texturize to refine and personalize the hair cut

15 hair color n Honey-COLOR ORIGINAL hair style 1 Comb the hair, and allow it to fall at the natural parting. Using the tip of a tail comb, create ½ 1" subsections on either side of the natural parting using fine, zig-zag partings. Clip them aside. 2 Take medium-density, medium-effect, zig-zag weaves as illustrated from just behind the hairline to just behind the point of distribution, and apply Formula A, feathering the color toward the scalp (see Color Feathering illustration below). 3 Place 2 fine-density, medium-effect, zig-zag weaves just beneath the natural parting, 1 on each side, and apply Formula A, feathering the color toward the scalp. 4 On all the remaining hair, apply Formula B at the scalp and Formula C from mid-lengths-to-ends. 5 Process, rinse, shampoo and perform the appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment. * mix the look ** Formula A with enlightenment blonding 1 scoop enlightener powder lightener 60 ml 5 volume color catalyst Formula B with full spectrum permanent 40 g 8Natural Light Blonde 3 g Light Blue/Blue 3 g Light Yellow/Orange 40 ml 20 volume color catalyst Formula C with full spectrum permanent 40 g 8Natural Light Blonde 3 g Light Yellow/Orange 40 ml 5 volume color catalyst color feathering This easy technique makes hair color look perfectly undone at the roots. Saturate the tip of a hair color brush with color. Using a gentle, flicking motion with your wrist, feather the color toward the scalp, beginning wherever the color is applied at the top of the section. NOTE: This technique is used in the Winter Peach, Timbered Waves, Spun Honey and Copper Fields looks. scalp feathered entire application 1 PREP the hair with pure abundance style-prep. 2 STYLE by applying volumizing tonic and wrap-drying the hair straight with a Mason Pearson brush. 3 When the hair is dry, apply pure abundance style-prep to the layers below the parietal ridge. Rough-dry the product into the hair, massaging with your hands to create a rough finish that adds volume. Leave the top sections smooth and sleek. 4 FINISH with control force firm hold hair spray. * See page 33 for detailed processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines. ** See page 34 for formula variants. 12

16 hair cut Copper Fields-CUT 1 Section the hair by taking a vertical section evenly through the center top and back of the head. Clip the remaining hair aside. 2 Stand directly behind the guest. Take horizontal subsections, and cut the hair below the shoulder with moderate tension, zero elevation, no overdirection and on the inside of your fingers, leaving a square perimeter. 3 When cutting the line, gently point-cut into the edges of the hair for a softer feel with more movement. Continue cutting a 1-length shape through the back and sides of the head as illustrated. 4 Stand in front and to the side of the guest to cut the fringe, which encompasses the entire front section. Stand on the side where the fingers of your non-dominant hand (the hand holding the hair) are pointing down. 5 Beginning in the center, take vertical subsections, and direct them to the point on the face where the shortest section of the fringe will be. Cut with the points of your scissors on top of your fingers, lifting each section upward and allowing the hair to slide through your fingers as your scissors follow in the same direction. 6 Continue in this manner, taking vertical subsections and overdirecting them to first (stationary guide) until you reach just below the parietal ridge. 7 Repeat on the opposite side. Stand in the same position to cut both sides, overdirecting away from you on one side and toward you on the opposite side. 8 Blow-dry and point-cut to refine the fringe and outline. copper FIELDS Simplicity doesn t have to lack drama. A backcombed crown, rounded fringe and alternating color placements create a look with structure, softness and just the right dose of drama. 13

17 hair color Copper Fields-COLOR ORIGINAL 1 Divide the hair into radial sections as illustrated. 2 In each radial section, take medium-density, medium-effect weaves, placing foils as illustrated. In the first weave, apply Formula A from scalp-to-ends, feathering the color toward the scalp (see Color Feathering on page 12). In the second weave, apply Formula B from mid-lengths-to-ends, feathering the color 1½ 2" away from the scalp. Continue alternating Formulas A and B in each radial section as illustrated. 3 When foils are complete, apply Formula C to all the remaining hair. 4 Process, rinse, shampoo and perform the appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment. * mix the look ** Formula A with full spectrum permanent 40 g 7Natural Medium Blonde 12 g Light Orange/Red 40 ml 20 volume color catalyst Formula B with full spectrum permanent 40 g 8Natural Light Blonde 5 g Light Yellow/Orange 5 g Light Orange/Red 40 ml 20 volume color catalyst Formula C with full spectrum permanent 40 g Universal ØN 8 g Light Orange/Red 40 ml 5 volume color catalyst hair style Formula A Formula B Infusing a brunette with pure copper tones creates tousled color with a rugged feel. The trick is using radial sectioning to mimic natural highlights and hints of red coaxed out by the sun. Ian Michael Black, Aveda Artistic Director, Hair Color * See page 33 for detailed processing, rinsing and botanical therapy guidelines. ** See page 34 for formula variants. 1 PREP the hair with pure abundance style-prep. 2 STYLE by applying volumizing tonic and sectioning the hair into 3 traditional panels. 3 Beginning in the nape, perform a round brush hard set, rolling subsections into on-base curls and securing with clips. 4 Work up the head until all the hair is set except for the fringe. When cool, remove the clips, and brush through the curls. 5 Using a fine-tooth comb, backcomb horizontal subsections at the crown to create a cushion. Work toward the fringe, but do not backcomb the fringe or sides. 6 Spray the backcombed sections with air control hair spray. Smooth using a Mason Pearson brush, and pin sections at the crown for volume. NOTE: For a simpler finish, leave the top section unpinned. 7 FINISH with air control hair spray. 14

18 15 notes

19 COMPLETE the look 16

20 makeup tips As the autumn months bring about cooler climates and whipping winds, the best makeup tip is to care for your skin. This season s makeup looks complement luminous and hydrated complexions with a subtly accentuated brow, cheek or lip using minimal products and effort. Janell Geason, Aveda Artistic Director, Makeup winter peach timbered waves toasted grains cropped wheat spun honey copper fields Sometimes less really is more. To create a minimal makeup look, Janell Geason, Aveda Artistic Director, Makeup, reaches for these go-to products: inner light mineral tinted moisture broad spectrum SPF 15, inner light concealer, petal essence face accents in tesserae and nourish-mint renewing lip treatment. Give brows their due with proper shaping. A brow waxing service and the right brow shadow or definer helps frame the face, balance features and create an expression. Windswept hair is one thing. Windswept skin is a different thing altogether. To keep the autumn winds at bay and for a radiant glow under makeup prep skin with tourmaline charged hydrating creme. To create contoured cheeks, use inner light mineral dual foundation. Choose a color that is 2 shades darker than the natural skin tone, and apply it to the hollows of the cheeks, flicking it up toward the cheekbones. A beautiful complexion is a look in itself; it doesn t need much embellishment. A humble-handed application of a shimmery shadow, like petal essence single eye color in antique gold, plays nicely with milky skin. Lips are skin, too they deserve equal attention. A combination of colorless nourish-mint lip definer and nourish-mint renewing lip treatment gives lips a delicious subtlety and protection from the elements. 17

21 complexion makeup step-by-steps Create a luminous complexion by prepping the skin with tourmaline charged skin care. For a hydrated finish, apply inner light mineral tinted moisture broad spectrum SPF 15 using the blush brush and inner light concealer where needed. Set lightly with inner light mineral loose powder. eyes 1 Prep the lids, and apply petal essence single eye color in antique gold from the inner corner across the lid to the brow using the medium eye color brush. 2 Contour the eyes with petal essence single eye color in hyacinth using the eye contour brush. 3 Apply petal essence eye definer in juniper along the bottom lash line, and smudge using the eye smudger brush. 4 Set the eye definer with petal essence single eye color in viridian, and smudge using your finger. Line the inner rim for added drama. tilled JUNIPER To create this look s nomadic-inspired eyes, switch the intensity from the top lash line to the bottom. The result is an effortless-looking, raw-chic beauty perfect for taking the road less traveled. lashes & brows 5 Curl the lashes, and apply mosscara in earth to the top and bottom lashes. Define the brows with the appropriate shade of petal essence eye color trio in gobi sands. cheeks 6 Contour the cheeks with uruku bronzer in brazilian sun using the blush brush. lips 7 Prep the lips. Apply nourish-mint rehydrating lip glaze in honeytree, and press in using your fingertips. 18

22 complexion makeup step-by-steps Create a luminous complexion by prepping the skin with tourmaline charged skin care. For a hydrated finish, apply inner light mineral tinted moisture broad spectrum SPF 15 using the blush brush and inner light concealer where needed. cheeks 1 Create a rouge effect by applying petal essence face accents in tesserae to the apples of the cheeks using a sponge. Set lightly with inner light mineral loose powder. eyes 2 Prep the lids, and highlight the inner top and bottom corners of each eye with petal essence single eye color in antique gold using the medium eye color brush. 3 Create a soft, smoky eye by applying petal essence single eye color in ginger root to the top and bottom lash lines, fading the color up to the brow and diffusing it along the bottom lash line using the medium eye color brush. 19 field ROSE Reverse the typical order of lip liner and lip color to create a lip with matte impact. Applying lip liner over lip color gives lips a more lived-in look. lashes & brows 4 Curl the lashes, and apply mosscara in earth to the top and bottom lashes. Define the brows with the appropriate shade of petal essence eye color trio in gobi sands. lips 5 Prep the lips. Apply nourish-mint smoothing lip color in redwood, and press lips together. 6 Line and fill in the lips with nourish-mint lip liner in red petals, and soften using the eye smudger brush.

23 complexion makeup step-by-steps Create a luminous complexion by prepping the skin with tourmaline charged skin care. For a hydrated finish, apply inner light mineral tinted moisture broad spectrum SPF 15 using the blush brush and inner light concealer where needed. cheeks 1 Create a rouge effect by applying petal essence face accents in tesserae to the apples of the cheeks using a sponge. Set lightly with inner light mineral loose powder. eyes 2 Prep the lids, and softly apply petal essence single eye color in antique gold from the lash line to the crease using the medium eye color brush. Diffuse the edges using the eye contour brush. lashes & brows 3 Curl the lashes, and apply mosscara in earth to the top and bottom lashes. Define the brows with the appropriate shade of petal essence eye color trio in gobi sands. winter BERRY For just-in-from-the-cold, naturally flushed cheeks, use a sponge to apply cheek color over hydrated skin. A light dusting of powder finishes the look. lips 4 Prep the lips. Line and fill in the lips with nourish-mint lip liner in plum petals, and soften using the eye smudger brush. 5 Apply nourish-mint smoothing lip color in sweetplum to the center of the lips, blot with a tissue and reapply if needed. Soften the edges of the lips using a cotton swab for a more lived-in effect. Apply nourish-mint rehydrating lip glaze in winterberry to the center of the lips. for a more dramatic look AFTER STEP 1, contour the eyes with petal essence single eye color in dusk orchid using the eye contour brush. Apply the same shade along the outer two-thirds of the bottom lash line, and smudge using the eye smudger brush. Line the bottom lash line with petal essence eye definer in night lily, and smudge using the eye smudger brush. 20

24 hair styling variations 21 pasture PUNK This swept-up style gets a modern upgrade by pinning top sections into a turban and letting the ends roam free. 1 PREP the hair with pure abundance style-prep. 2 STYLE by applying volumizing tonic and rough-drying the hair with your fingers. 3 Apply light elements texturizing creme to your hands, and use your palms to roll hair into ropes from scalp-to-ends, varying the thickness as you work. Spray the ropes with air control hair spray for additional hold. Continue until all the hair is in ropes. 4 Section the hair into 3 traditional panels (top, middle and bottom). Wrap the top and middle sections around the head like a turban, leaving the ends out. Secure with pins. Leave the bottom section down. 5 FINISH with air control hair spray. Hair styles often reflect cultural traditions, and this turban technique creates a look that is more punk than prairie. Allen Ruiz, Aveda Artistic Director, Hair Styling

25 hair styling variations barn LOCKS Create the weathered look of dreadlocks instantly with a twist-set that is high-drama with a haphazard flip. 1 PREP the hair with pure abundance style-prep. 2 STYLE by applying volumizing tonic and blow-drying the hair straight. 3 Beginning in the nape, apply light elements texturizing creme to your hands, and twist a 1" triangular section of hair in your palms from roots-to-ends. When the section is fully twisted, clamp a flat iron on the rope of hair, moving the iron down the entire length of the strand in 10-second increments. 4 Repeat on the entire head, varying the size of the sections and twists. 5 When all twists are complete and pressed with the flat iron, use your hands to gently rub and loosen the twists into a more undone look. 6 FINISH by flipping the front section of hair over the head and applying air control hair spray. 22

26 hair styling variations 23 churned CURLS Bring out a tomboy texture with hand-sculpted curls set on an everyday comb and broken up with a tousle. 1 PREP the hair with be curly style-prep. 2 STYLE applying be curly curl controller to wet hair. Using a comb, take diagonal partings through the front and fringe, twisting the sections away from the face and curling them around the comb. Do not pin the curls in place, but leave the wet curls in place to dry. 3 When the top section is curled, continue to sculpt pieces around the ears using the comb. 4 When the curls are 100% dry, separate them with your fingers, and define them with light elements texturizing creme until you achieve the desired result. 5 FINISH with be curly curl enhancing hair spray. Centuries ago, women simply used their hands to craft organic and ornate hair styles. Follow their lead by focusing less on tools and more on handcrafting these curls. Allen Ruiz, Aveda Artistic Director, Hair Styling

27 hair styling variations rustic DAMSEL 1 PREP the hair with pure abundance style-prep. 2 STYLE by applying volumizing tonic and sectioning the hair into 3 traditional panels. 3 Beginning in the nape, blow-dry the hair in subsections using a round brush. Roll each subsection up to the scalp, and allow to it cool on the brush before gently unwinding. 4 Work up the head until all the sections are dry. Rough-dry the fringe straight. 5 Brush through the hair with your fingers until you achieve the desired texture. 6 FINISH with air control hair spray. A finger-combed soft set hints at 1960s glam but is tamed into a natural look that is perfectly rough around the edges. 24

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29 GIVE the look 26

30 undone techniques love UNDONE Undone looks are optical illusions it takes technique, product and precision to make a natural look appear effortless. Review the undone techniques, and select a few to customize for some of your favorite salon guests. hair cut Twisted Texture Effortless-looking hair often looks textured. To put texture into the hair, take small sections, twist them around your finger and without closing the blade of the scissors completely, work toward the end of the section, removing small amounts of weight. Edgy Undercut Using a scissor-over-comb technique, remove length from underneath the hair while leaving the edges longer. The result is a barbered-yet-feminine look that can be exposed on a whim no clippers required. hair color Feathered Highlights By nature, virgin hair looks slightly darker at the scalp. Mimic this effect by feathering hair color at the top of each section instead of applying color right at the scalp. Saturate the tip of a hair color brush with color, and flick the brush toward the scalp for a worn-in, natural look (see Color Feathering on page 12). Zig-Zag Partings For windswept highlights that look equally subtle and eye-catching, use fine, zig-zag partings and weaves when applying hair color. The result is an interesting texture that gives hair a multi-dimensional boost and reveals glimmers of color with every gust of wind. hair style Windblown Volume Apply pure abundance style-prep to dry hair, and rough-dry it into the hair using your hands. Concentrate on the underlayers for a more conspicuous look, or diffuse into the top layers for full-blown texture that looks effortlessly unkempt. Comb-Crafted Curls Create organic-looking curls with three simple tools: be curly curl controller, a comb and your artistic eye. Apply product to hand-selected sections, and twist them around a comb into a handcrafted curl set. When dry, break up the curls using your fingers, and use light elements texturizing creme to shape them into disheveled perfection. makeup Smudged Smile A diffused lip looks natural and doesn t require constant attention. Apply lip color, and soften the edges using a cotton swab to create an unfussy lip that can easily withstand several sips from a cold-day mug of tea. Ruddied Rouge Nothing is more natural than a cheek ruddied by the autumn wind. Imitate nature by using a sponge to apply cheek color over hydrated skin first, and set lightly with powder. Or, try the simple technique employed by women for generations smile, pinch and go. 27

31 undone technique choose a guest customize it makeup hair style hair color hair cut product recommendations Circle the products that you would recommend to your guests. 28

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35 APPENDIX 32

36 patch test guidelines After the consultation, perform a patch test using your selected formula. WHO WHEN WARNING A preliminary patch test should be made before each application on every guest. 48 hours before the service Hair colorants can cause severe allergic reactions. Always read and follow instructions. Hair colorants are not intended for use on persons under the age of 16. Temporary black henna tattoos may increase the risk of allergy. HOW Patch Test Instructions for full spectrum hair color: 1 Using either soap and water or alcohol, clean a small area of skin behind the ear or on the inner surface of the forearm. Let area dry. 2 With an absorbent cotton tipped applicator, apply a small quantity of hair dye, as prepared for use, to the area and allow it to dry. 3 Do not cover or disturb for 48 hours. 4 Examine test area 24 and 48 hours later. If no reaction has occurred, proceed at once with hair coloring. The test should be carried out before each application. 5 The hair dye should never be used for dyeing eyebrows or eyelashes; to do so may cause blindness. DO NOT USE HAIR COLOR IF ANY OF THESE DANGER SIGNS APPEAR: burning, itching, swelling, eruption or irritation. Abnormal signs such as these in or around the test area may indicate hypersensitivity or allergy, and the product tested should not be used. In addition, do not color hair if: There is a rash on face or sensitive, irritated and damaged scalp. Client has ever experienced any reaction after coloring hair. Client has experienced a reaction to a temporary black henna tattoo in the past. processing, rinsing & botanical therapy guidelines 1 Process hair color according to guidelines. 2 Rinse hair thoroughly with comfortably hot water to remove color. 3 Shampoo with color conserve shampoo, apply color conserve phinish and rinse again with cool water. 4 Towel-dry hair well to prepare for the appropriate botanical therapy hair treatment, which is applied based on the condition of the hair. For dry hair, perform the moisture treatment using dry remedy penetrating moisture. For damaged hair, perform the repair treatment using damage remedy penetrating protein. 5 Process at room temperature for 5 minutes and rinse. You do not need to shampoo or condition the hair. 6 Style as desired. 33

37 formula variants winter peach with full spectrum deep Formula A Prelighten to Pale Yellow 1 scoop enlightener powder lightener 60 ml 20 volume color catalyst Formula B There is no full spectrum deep variant for this formula. Formula C 50 g Universal ØN 1 g Light Red/Red 50 ml 5 volume color catalyst timbered waves with full spectrum deep Formula A 10 g 12Natural Extra Light Blonde 10 g 10Natural Lightest Blonde 3 g Light Blue/Violet 42 ml 20 volume color catalyst Formula B 20 g 12Natural Extra Light Blonde 4 g Light Yellow/Orange 48 ml 20 volume color catalyst Formula C 40 g Universal ØN 8 g Light Yellow/Orange 40 ml 5 volume color catalyst toasted grains with full spectrum permanent and deposit-only color treatment Formula A with full spectrum permanent 40 g 3Natural Medium Brown 40 ml 5 volume color catalyst Formula B with full spectrum permanent 20 g 6Natural Dark Blonde 1 g Pure Red 20 ml 30 volume color catalyst Formula C with full spectrum permanent 20 g Extra Lifting Creme 40 ml 30 volume color catalyst Formula D with full spectrum deposit-only color treatment 20 g 8Natural Light Blonde 6 g Dark Red/Red 20 ml creme activator cropped wheat with full spectrum deep Formula A 20 g 6Natural Dark Blonde 8 g Dark Grey/Blue 56 ml 20 volume color catalyst Formula B 1 scoop enlightener powder lightener 20 ml 5 volume color catalyst Formula C 20 g 10Natural Lightest Blonde 4 g Light Green/Green 48 ml 20 volume color catalyst Formula D 20 g 12Natural Extra Light Blonde 4 g Light Blue/Grey 48 ml 20 volume color catalyst Formula E 40 g Universal ØN 40 ml 5 volume color catalyst spun honey with full spectrum deep Formula A 1 scoop enlightener powder lightener 60 ml 5 volume color catalyst Formula B 20 g 12Natural Extra Light Blonde 2 g Light Green/Green 44 ml 20 volume color catalyst Formula C 10 g 10Natural Lightest Blonde 10 g Universal ØN 4 g Light Yellow/Orange 48 ml 5 volume color catalyst copper fields with full spectrum deep Formula A 20 g 10Natural Lightest Blonde 5 g Light Orange/Yellow 1 g Light Natural/Natural 52 ml 20 volume color catalyst Formula B 20 g 12Natural Extra Light Blonde 3 g Light Yellow/Orange 3 g Light Orange/Yellow 52 ml 20 volume color catalyst Formula C 40 g Universal ØN 5 g Dark Orange/Red 5 g Light Orange/Yellow 100 ml 5 volume color catalyst 34

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39 Heart Lands autumn 2013 collection Antoinette Beenders, Global Creative Director Allen Ruiz, Artistic Director, Hair Styling Janell Geason, Artistic Director, Makeup Ian Michael Black, Artistic Director, Hair Color Ricardo Dinis, Artistic Director, Hair Cutting Sonya Manning, Aveda Purefessional, Hair Styling, Boston Anna Conte, Aveda Purefessional, Makeup, Toronto Jo McKay, Aveda European Technical Hair Specialist, London Jenny Hands, Photographer Monty, Behind-the-Scenes Photographer Damian Foxe, Wardrobe Stylist Erik Arveseth, Senior Manager, Technical Education Wendy Prior, Director of Professional Hair Care Sales & Education Lisa Whalley, Designer Abby DeBruine & Johanna Buch, Writers 36

40 Our mission at Aveda is to care for the world we live in, from the products we make to the ways in which we give back to society. At Aveda, we strive to set an example for environmental leadership and responsibility, not just in the world of beauty, but around the world % post-consumer recycled paper. Please recycle. Aveda Corp., Minneapolis, MN USA / aveda.com