A Call in Lisbon, Portugal

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1 Going ashore: (Cruise Port) A Call in Lisbon, Portugal by Richard H. Wagner Lisbon is one of the busiest cruise ports in Europe with approximately a quarter million cruise visitors each year. It is the capital of Portugal and its largest city. It has a good harbor and is situated close to the Atlantic making it a convenient port of call for ships sailing from Britain and Northern Europe on Mediterranean, Iberian and Canary Islands cruises. However, what makes Lisbon a popular port is its picturesque charm that mixes the traditional with the cosmopolitan sophistication of a major city. According to popular legend, Lisbon was founded by the Greek hero Odysseus. While there is no evidence to support this connection to the ancient sailor, Lisbon is and has always been closely linked with the sea. It lies in the estuary of the River Tagus on a piece of land that juts out further into the Atlantic than anywhere else in continental Europe. From here, explorers and traders sailed out and brought back to Lisbon wealth and power. The port remains one of the most important in Europe. Lisbon has some 20 centuries of history. Even if it were possible to do so, it would be beyond the scope of this article to attempt to recount it all. But some key facts may help to enrich viewing some of Lisbon s many sights and landmarks. Lisbon was probably founded by the Phoenicians. They were followed by Carthaginians, Romans, Vistigoths and Moors. It was liberated by Christen knights under King Alfonso I in However, the Portuguese kings did not move the court to Lisbon until The next major period in Lisbon s story was the Age of Discovery during the 15 th through 17 th centuries. Encouraged by Prince Henry the Navigator, Portuguese explorers ventured out to find lands previously

2 unknown in Europe and to develop new trade routes to such known but distant lands as China and India. As a result of these voyages, Portugal obtained colonies and increased trade. These, in turn, brought wealth and power is a key date for Lisbon. In November of that year, a massive earthquake estimated to have been over 9 on the Richter scale, destroyed 85 percent of the buildings in the city. As a result, almost all of what you see today in Lisbon was built after The 20 th century saw a series of revolutions that changed the course of Portuguese history. In October 1910, a revolution ended Portugal s ancient monarchy and established the country as a republic. The First Republic was unstable, however, and in 1926, another revolution brought about the Estado Novo, a conservative authoritarian regime. From 1934 until 1968, the prime minister, Antonio Salazar, was the country s dictator. In 1974, a military coup combined with civil resistance caused the fall of the Estado Novo and the establishment of democracy. It is called the Carnation Revolution because soldiers participating in the revolt had flowers in the barrels of their rifles and on their uniforms. Most cruise ships calling in Lisbon dock on the north side of the Tagus at the Alcantara cruise terminal. It is about a mile and a quarter from the city center. Next to the Alcantra terminal is the Rocha Conde d Oblidos terminal. Further upriver is the Santa Aplonia terminal which is near the Alfama district and close to the Apolonia railway station. The Alcantra cruise terminal is in the shadow of the 25 th of April Bridge. Spanning the Tagus, this suspension bridge is approximately 1.5 miles long. Its name recalls the date of the Carnation Revolution. Near where the bridge reaches the south side of the river is the Christ the King Monument. This 90 foot tall figure of Christ was built in 1959 as a thanksgiving to God for having spared Portugal from direct involvement in World War II. Visitors are treated to panoramic views of Lisbon from the top of the 270 foot pedestal. Sailing in or out of Lisbon, your cruise ship will pass the Belem district. This is the traditional gateway to the city. Its most famous monument is the Belem Tower, a fortress built on the river in 1515 to defend the city. However, its design was not entirely utilitarian. Rather, it was decorated in the Manueline style and looks like a vision from a storybook. It has become a symbol of Lisbon and has been designated a World Heritage Monument by UNESCO. Nearby is a more recent monument. Dedicated in 1960 as part of the celebrations marking the 500 th anniversary of the first voyage sponsored by Prince Henry the Navigator, the Monument to Discoveries is some 50 meters high. Its shape is designed to recall that of the caravel, the type of ship that Portugal s explorers used in their journeys. On it are statues depicting many of the explorers led by the figure of Prince Henry. 2

3 Just across from the Discoveries Monument is the Mostiero dos Jeronimos. Begun in 1501, this ornate Manueline structure reflects Portugal s wealth and power during the Age of Discovery. It stands on the site where Vasco da Gama spent his last night ashore before setting off on his voyage around the Cape of Good Hope to India and was built to give thanks to the Virgin Mary for the success of that voyage. (Da Gama is one of several notable figures buried in the building). It too is a UNESCO World Heritage monument. Also in Belam is the Belem Palace, the official residence of the President of Portugal. It was built in 1559 and altered in the 18 th Century. The Palace is open to the public on Saturdays except when official functions are taking place. There is also a presidential museum. Among the other attractions in Belem are the ornate Adjuda Palace, the Berardo Museum (modern art), the Coaches Museum (coaches) and the Maritime Museum. Traveling upriver from the Alcantara cruise terminal, you eventually come to the Baixa district or downtown Lisbon. After the earthquake of 1755, this district was extensively rebuilt and is an early example of urban planning. The planners envisioned that people arriving from the sea would enter Lisbon via the Praca do Comercio. This vast expanse was able to become the primary maritime entrance to Lisbon because after the earthquake, the royal family decided to move to another district rather than rebuild the palace that had been here for more than two centuries. In the center of the square is an equestrian statue of King Jose I, who was king during the earthquake and its aftermath. On the north side of the square is a ceremonial arch decorated with historic figures such as explorer Vasco da Gama. The arcaded buildings surrounding the square house government offices and restaurants, including the Café Martin da Arcada, which dates from 1782 and which was a favorite of poets and writers. The arch leads out onto the Rue Augusta, which is Lisbon s main pedestrian-only shopping street. In addition to the pleasing architecture of the buildings housing its shops and cafes, its pavement is inlaid with mosaic patterns. Nearby is Rossio Square, which has been called the heart of Lisbon. At the center of the square is a monument to King Pedro IV flanked by two large fountains. Locals often come here to relax in the square s outdoor cafes. The main avenue of Lisbon is Avenida da Liberdade. This is a broad tree-lined thoroughfare with high-end shops, hotels, theaters, and mansions. It links downtown Lisbon with the Marques de Pombal Square, which honors the man credited with rebuilding the city after the 1755 earthquake. Beyond this square is Edward VII Park, named after the British king who came to Lisbon in 1903 to reaffirm the ancient alliance between Portugal and Britain. 3

4 Not all of Lisbon was destroyed by the earthquake of Much of the Alfama, the old Moorish qarter, remained intact. As a result, that quarter did not receive the urban planning that Baixa did and so still has narrow cobblestone streets, tiny squares and traditional residential buildings. It has a romantic air and is popular for walking tours. Of course, there are other districts and attractions in Lisbon. However, hopefully the above gives you an idea of the richness and variety of the Lisbon experience. Outside the City According to the poet Lord Byron, the village of Cintra in Estremadura is the most beautiful in the world." In addition, UNESCO, which has declared Sintra a World Heritage Site, has explained its cultural significance in the following glowing terms: The cultural landscape of the Serra and the town of Sintra represents a pioneering approach to Romantic landscaping that had an outstanding influence on developments elsewhere in Europe. It is a unique example of the cultural occupation of a specific location that has maintained its essential integrity as the representation of diverse successive cultures. Its structures harmonize indigenous flora with a refined and cultivated landscape created by man as a result of literary and artistic influences. Its integrity is fragile and vulnerable to neglect and unsympathetic management and use. There is evidence of Neolithic settlements in the area as far back as the 5 th Millennium B.C. Later, the Romans were attracted here as were the Moors who built a castle atop one of the peeks and which romantic ruin still overlooks the town. Located within easy reach of Lisbon (about 18 miles), Sintra is set on a towering promontory rising some 1,763 feet above sea level.. Inasmuch as it can be 20 degrees (Fahrenheit) cooler here than in the city, it is not surprising that the town became the summer home of the Portuguese royal family as well as other European aristocrats. Many of their palaces and mansions can still be visited today. The most frequently visited of these palaces is the National Palace. Built on the site of a Moorish palace, the oldest parts of the present palace date from the early 14 th Century. Over the centuries it was expanded and redecorated by several kings and queens so that it is now a unique blend of Gothic, Manueline and Moorish styles. The two conical towers that immediately draw the eye are actually the chimneys of the kitchen. Inside, visitors can explore a series of significant rooms housing an extensive collection of paintings and other decorative arts. While the palaces and mansions tend to dominate, the village itself has a romantic appeal. It too recalls an earlier time in its architecture and narrow streets. Of course, many of its shops, restaurants and cafes cater to the many visitors that follow each year in Lord Byron s footsteps. 4

5 Also just outside of Lisbon is the Queluz National Palace. This royal residence has been called the Portuguese Versailles although it is much smaller than the French palace. It was begun in 1747 and was one of the last Rococo palaces built in Europe. The extravagance of its design reflects the fact that Portugal had become a very rich country following the discoveries of diamonds and gold in its Brazilian colony. Speaking of Brazil, the royal family had to vacate Queluz and flee to Brazil in 1807 when the Napoleonic French invaded Portugal. Marshall Jean- Andoche Junot occupied the palace and made several alterations. Damaged by fire in 1934, the palace has been extensively restored. It now houses a large part of the former royal collection of paintings, carpets and other decorative arts. In addition, the palace is still used for state occasions including entertaining and housing visiting heads of state. (U.S. Presidents Eisenhower, Reagan and Clinton are amongst Queluz s visitors). Surrounding the palace is an impressive formal garden with fountains, ponds, canals and statues.. 5

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