~~~ Chantal Bag ~~~ two interior pockets and one exterior zippered pocket

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1 1 ~~~ Chantal Bag ~~~ Size: 15 (38 cm) wide at bottom 12'' (30 cm) wide at top 14 (35 cm) tall (without straps) 23'' (58 cm) tall (with straps) 4 (10 cm) deep two interior pockets and one exterior zippered pocket ~ Please read all the instructions carefully before starting to make the bag ~

2 2 1. Material list- fabric used is quilt fabric weight, 44 (110 cm) wide. ½ yard (0.45 m) main fabric for the front and back panels; ½ yard (0.45 m) accent fabric for the straps and side gusset (pieced from 3 pieces); this fabric should contrast with the main fabric; more fabric - ¾ yard (0.7 m) - allows for longer straps and gusset pieced only from 2 pieces (read more about this fabric on page 4); 1 yard (0.9 m) fabric for lining and pockets ;I used different fabrics for an easy understanding of the sewing steps; ¾ yard (0.7 m) heavyweight interfacing (45 wide) for the outer bag (or 1½ yd, 20'' wide); read more about interfacing at the end of the pattern; batting or fusible fleece for straps - 5'' x 18'' (12.5x 45 cm) (or a longer piece if you need longer straps); 9/16" (14mm) magnetic snap; 7 (18 cm) zipper (or longer); jeans/denim needle (100/16); I use the Schmetz brand; coordinating threads. 2. Seam allowances Stitch using 3/8 (1cm) seam allowances unless otherwise stated. Some steps require narrower seam allowances so read the instructions carefully. 3. Prepare the pattern - there is one pattern piece for half of the main body. Print the pattern twice and tape the pieces together to get the full pattern. The pattern includes seam allowances. Print it in the original size. A test square is included on the first page. Measure it to be sure that you print the pattern at the proper scale. Tape together piece A with piece B. The edges that need to be taped together are marked with a dashed line. Remove the excess of one page and place it over the excess of the other page. Tape the pages together then cut out around the solid lines.

3 3 4. Cut and prepare the pieces A. Main fabric cut 2 pieces for the front and the back of the bag; cut out your fabric a little bit bigger (about 1'') than your paper pattern piece. If you have a directional fabric, ensure the pattern is all going the same way for the front and the back before you cut out. Interfacing cut out 2 pieces, the same size as the main fabric pieces (or even better- slightly smaller so you don't end up ironing the interfacing to your ironing board). Fuse the interfacing to your fabric, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Place the fabric (right side up) over the shiny adhesive side of the interfacing and press. Let the pieces cool for a few minutes. If you use two types of interfacing (a lightweight fusible one and fusible fleece), iron first the lightweight interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric, then iron the fusible fleece piece directly on top of the fusible interfacing. Let the pieces cool. More about interfacing on page 20. Place the paper pattern over the interfaced fabric, trace around it with a marker and cut on the lines. These are the front and back panels of the outer bag.

4 4 B. Accent fabric for the side gusset You need a long piece 5'' x 48'', cut on the straight grain, parallel with the selvage. If you cut out from a ½ yard piece, then cut 2 pieces (5'' x 17½'') and 1 piece (5'' x 15''); Cut pieces of the same size out of interfacing. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of each fabric piece then piece the interfaced pieces together (keeping the shorter piece in the center) to get the long gusset. Stitch with 3/8'' seam allowances. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam. If you have ¾ yard available, you need only 2 pieces 5'' x 25'' (and the same from interfacing). If your interfacing is very stable (like Timtex or Peltex), then you can cut the fabric on the cross grain, from the ½ yard piece (cut out 2 pieces 5''x25''). C. Accent fabric for the straps Cut out 2 pieces (5'' x 18''). Cut on the straight grain, parallel with the selvage. From fusible fleece or batting, cut out 2 pieces (2⅜'' x 18''). Important note It is a good idea to cut the pieces for straps when it is time to sew them to the bag, you might need longer straps. Lay the batting (fleece) strip down on to the center of the fabric. Fold the long edges of the fabric into the center and press. Fold the resulting strip in half lengthways again. Topstitch along the long edges, 1/8" from the edge and in the center.

5 5 D. Lining fabric For the lining - cut 2 pieces using the template for the outer bag (the same size as the paper template); - cut strips to make a 5'' x 48'' piece for the gusset (piece them the same way you pieced the gusset for the outer bag). Pocket fabric (not shown here) For 2 interior pockets - cut 2 pieces 6½'' x 20'' For the exterior zippered pocket - cut 1 piece 9½'' x 16'' 5. Assemble the outer bag 5.1. The zippered pocket On the back of the bag we will install a zippered pocket. Place the fabric for the pocket (9.5 x16 ) wrong side up on a table. At 1.5" (4cm) from the top, mark a rectangle (centered width-wise) that is 7" (18 cm) long and 0.5" (1.25 cm) wide. Use a water-soluble pen for marking or mark with thin lines. Mark the red lines too, as shown. Here is a close-up.

6 6 Pin the pocket fabric to one of the outer bag piece, right sides together. This will be the back of the bag. Place the pocket 1.5" (4 cm) away from the top curved edge. Stitch through all the layers along all sides of the yellow rectangle (the yellow lines). Backstitch when you reach the corner (the green lines), this will strengthen the corner. Carefully cut down the center of the rectangle (the red line in the previous image) and about 1/4" (0.5 cm) from the ends, clip toward the corners as close as you can without clipping the stitching.

7 7 Push the pocket though the hole you just cut to the wrong side of the back bag. Using the iron and steam, press the rectangle flat. The pocket fabric must be hidden when viewed from the front side. This is how it looks from the right side and from the wrong side. Position the zipper behind the opening. Pin or baste in place. Topstitch all around the opening to secure the zipper in place (a zipper foot is helpful). Stitch carefully over the zipper teeth. Using a cloth, press well on the front.

8 8 If you used a longer zipper, it s now time to trim off the excess. Fold the pocket lining in half lengthwise, right sides together and stitch along the three sides. The zippered pocket is done Attach the main panels to the gusset First, attach the front panel of the bag to the gusset (the panel without the pocket). Mark the center of the front piece and the center of the gusset (the yellow markings). Do the same for the back piece and the other edge of the gusset.

9 9 Keep the pieces right sides together. Matching the center points marked in the previous step, start pinning from the center and go toward the gusset ends. The gusset is longer; the excess will be trimmed off later. If you made the gusset out of 3 pieces, you will notice that the seams fall on the rounded corners, this is why it is easier to work with a gusset made out of only 2 pieces. Pin and stitch on the bag panel side (not the gusset side), it's easier! Stitch with ¼'' seam allowances (it can be just a little wider but not narrower than ¼''). Narrow seam allowance is the secret to easily stitch nice rounded corners. As you approach the curved corner, slow the sewing down. Move the fabric under the needle with your right hand (if you are right handed) while you keep the gusset smooth with your left hand. When it is necessary, lift up the presser foot (with the needle in the down position) and reposition the fabric before commencing sewing. Continue to stitch in this "stop and start" manner for the curved corners. Sew with dense stitches (stitch length set to 2). Clip the curved edges. Turn the fabric to the right side and check the corner. It has to be nicely rounded and the seam allowances wide enough so that the seam doesn't fall apart. Make adjustments if necessary then double the seam (stitch on top of the previous seam) to reinforce the bag- this is very important. Press the seam allowances toward the gusset. Turn the piece as shown in the picture at right and press the corners. Let the piece cool for a few minutes.

10 10 Attach the back panel to the gusset This time start pinning from the top edges. The top edges of the main panels must be placed at the same distance from the top edge of the gusset so position the back panel accordingly. Here is a close-up. Also match the center point of the bottom edge of the panel with the center point of the gusset. Pin and stitch on the bag fabric side (not the gusset side). Press the seam allowances toward the gusset.

11 11 Using a ruler, trim off the excess of the gusset as shown. Straighten the edges of the main panels too. The straps will be stitched over the side seam (see the black arrow). Trim off the seam allowances (for about ½'') to reduce the bulk. Here is the view on the wrong side.

12 Attach the straps Pin the straps to the top edge of the bag. The picture at the right is a close-up. Place the straps 3/8'' away from the bag curved edge (this step is important). Stitch the straps securely in place at ¼'' from the edge. 6. Assemble the lining 6.1. Prepare the pockets Fold the pocket fabric in half lengthwise. Pin and stitch around all sides, leaving an opening on one side (about 3, 7.5 cm). Clip the corners. Turn the pocket right side out. Use a pointy object to push out the corners. Press well. Close the opening (stitching by hand or by machine). Topstitch across the top edge of the pocket. Repeat with the other pocket Attach the interior pockets Lay one of the pockets in the center of the lining piece. Stitch the bottom and the sides, close to the edge (the red line). Backstitch at the top corners to reinforce the seams. I divided the long pocket into three sections stitching two vertical lines (the black lines). Divide your pocket accordingly to your needs. Repeat and stitch the other pocket to the other lining piece.

13 Insert the magnetic snaps to the lining pieces Take one of the lining pieces and lay it down on a table, right side up. Fold it in half to find the center of the top edge and mark it. Mark also 1.5 (4 cm) from the top curved edge (the red X ). NOTE I took the next photos on a light color fabric for easy understanding of the next steps. Center a metal washer over the X mark and draw other two marks at the left and at the right of the center mark through the two opening of the washer. Using a seam ripper cut two small slits into the markings you have just made. Do not cut too much of the lining. Cut four pieces about 2 x2 (5x5 cm) from a heavyweight fabric (or from a lightweight fabric doubled with interfacing). On two of the squares make the slits as we did on previous step. These squares will be used to enforce the magnetic snap.

14 14 Take one of the magnetic snap parts and push the prongs through the right side of the lining. This is the wrong side of the lining. Add one of the squares with slits. Slip a metal washer over the prongs and then fold the prongs down in to the center. Cover the back of the snap with another piece of fabric (one of those that doesn t have slits).

15 15 Topstitch around the snap through all the layers from the right side of the lining. After the stitching is done, cut out the excess fabric from the wrong side, leaving small seam allowances. Repeat with the other lining piece and the other part of the magnetic snap in the same way Assemble the lining Sew the lining in the same way as the exterior bag except you must leave a 7''-8" (18-20 cm) gap in one of the bottom edge seams. Stitch twice to reinforce the seams.

16 16 Trim off the excess of the gusset, straightening the edges. Press all the seams. 7. Finish the bag Turn the bag wrong side out. Slip the lining (right side out) into the bag. The fabrics are now right sides together with top of the bag even with the top of the lining as shown. Match the side seams and pin around the top to keep in place. The straps are placed between the outer bag and the lining. For each strap end, mark with a pin the edge near the curved edge of the bag (see the red arrows). Here is a close-up. Another close-up. Stitch around the top, joining the bag and the lining. Stitch with 3/8'' seam allowances.

17 17 When you turn the bag right side out, the edge of the strap must continue the curved edge of the bag (see the black arrow). This is the reason you marked that edge with a pin. Here is how to achieve this: You placed the strap at 3/8'' from the curved edge; you stitch with 3/8'' seam allowances. This means that the stitching along the curved edge (the blue stitching) must end at the pin and the stitching along the top edge must start at the pin. Double the seam across the straps. After the stitching is done, turn the bag right side out and check the edge of the straps. If something is wrong, correct the seam (for example - the red line is a wrong seam, the blue-black seam is the correct one).

18 18 Again, you can see here what the stitching should look like. Clip into the seam allowances along all the curved edges. Using the opening left in the lining s bottom side, gently turn the bag right side out. Tuck the lining down inside the bag. Topstitch close to the edge (about ¼''-0.5 cm away from the top edge) around the top of the bag (see the black line). Use pins to keep the layers in place. Close the opening in the lining seam (stitching by hand or by machine).

19 19 8. The last step - and very important! Press the entire bag well, including the top edge. Enjoy your new bag! Geta Grama Thank you for choosing my pattern! Geta s website: Geta s blog: Geta: Copyright Information: 2012 Geta Grama Bags made using this pattern may be sold, please give credit to Geta Grama for the pattern. Mass manufacturing of bags made from this pattern is prohibited. Copying and distributing (including electronic transmission) of this pattern is prohibited. Size of the large and mini bags The medium size is the original bag. The large bag is about 115% from the medium size. The mini bag is 65% from the medium size. Large bag 18 wide at bottom 14½ '' wide at top 17½'' tall (without straps) 5½'' deep Mini bag 9½'' wide at bottom 7¼'' wide at top 8½'' tall (without straps) 2½'' deep If you need a size between the large and medium, print the templates for the large bag at a reduced scale. If you need a size between the medium and small, print the templates for the medium bag at a reduced scale. If you need a smaller size than the mini bag, print the template for the mini bag at a reduced scale. - MORE TIPS on the next pages -

20 20 1. Scale the size of the pattern up or down to suit your needs To reduce the pattern Print the pattern pieces but don t print them in the original size. If you want to make a bag 75% of the original bag, print all the patterns at 75%. Then cut out and assemble the patterns as usual. How to print Click File/Print Setup then select Scaled printing (the location or name of this option varies from printer to printer). To enlarge the pattern Use the template on page 3 and enlarge it to the required size at a copy shop. Adjust the size of the other pieces accordingly (pockets, gusset). Pay attention to the way you adjust the width and the length of the straps. Before starting to work on a modified pattern Cut out the pieces and assemble the paper pattern. Look at the paper pieces and try to figure out how small or big the new bag will be. 85% is significantly smaller than the original bag. 2. Interfacing Guide Working with quilt weight fabric It is a must to use interfacing when you work with quilting fabric. There are many types of interfacing on the market. Try as many as you can and choose your favorites. Here are two options I used with great results: A. Lightweight to mid-weight fusible interfacing (woven or non-woven) paired with Pellon Fusible Fleece 987F or Pellon Fusible Thermolam Plus TP971F. The fusible fleece or Thermolam could be fused directly to the wrong side of the fabric. But I don't like the look of the fabric because of the loft of the fleece. This is why I first fuse a layer of a light fusible interfacing (like Pellon SF-101 Shape Flex Fusible Woven), it makes the fabric crisp. Then I fuse a layer of fusible fleece or Thermolam (my favorite is Thermolam), which adds body to the fabric. You can then choose to leave the fabric piece as is or to quilt it. Read further on about quilted bags. B. Timtex Timtex is a stiff interfacing. It gives a professional finish to your bag and makes it stand on its own. Timtex is stiff and non-fusible. Therefore it is hard to use pins to baste the fabric to it. Use an adhesive spray to keep the layers together then "quilt" the sandwich. Use Jeans needles (size 100/16) for "quilting"and your best thread. For assembling the bag, you need strong pins. If you are new to bag making, it is not the best idea to make your first bag with a stiff interfacing. It is easier to work with fusible fleece. A product similar to Timtex is Peltex-it is fusible and not as thick as Timtex. Another product I want to try is "Soft and Stable". The package label indicates that this new interfacing is lightweight, maintains its shape, consists of polyester foam with fabric on both sides and is easy to sew and washer/dryer safe.

21 21 How to use leftover pieces of interfacing The heavyweight interfacing is not cheap but the good news is that you can save and use any leftover piece. Make larger pieces in this way: 3. Home décor fabric Sturdy washable fabrics such as heavy cottons, home décor fabric or denim work great for the outer bag. Pre-wash the fabric so it does not shrink later. The heavyweight cotton fabric from Ikea is a good option. I made one bag using the heavy cotton from Ikea and no interfacing. The bag looks nice, but interfacing adds structure to the bag and strength to fabrics. Even these heavyweight fabrics benefit from using interfacing. For your very first bag, you could use only fabric, but it is a must to be a heavyweight one. Place two pieces next to each other under the presser foot. Do not overlap the edges. Join the pieces with a wide zigzag stitch, making sure you catch both edges. Not sure? If you are not sure which type of interfacing to use, I would recommend using a lighter one, you can always fuse an additional layer of interfacing if you want a more sturdy piece of fabric. 4. Quilted bags You need a little more time to make a quilted bag. But quilted bags have a big advantage- there is no need to iron them after washing! Many times I "quilt" my pieces for bags even if I use fusible interfacing - the stitches keep the layers together better and help avoid the "fused crinkly" look of fabric. Size of the bag The size of the bag influences the type of interfacing you could use. On a mini-bag you could use a lightweight interfacing that would not be suitable for a large bag. NOTE Follow the manufacture's instructions when working with interfacing. Some woven interfacing should be pre-washed. Pre-wash all the fabric you want to use for your bag and lining. Always pre-test the product you want to use. Cut the fabric and batting 1 larger than the paper pattern and quilt it. Then using the paper pattern cut out the desired piece. Do not quilt heavyweight fabrics, especially if your sewing machine has difficulties sewing through thick fabrics! Or at least quilt it using only a lightweight batting (and no backing).

22 22 I quilted heavy cotton velveteen and I had some difficulties at the final topstitching around the top edges of the bag due to bulk in the seams. 4. Stitching instead of pressing When you work with thick fabric, sometimes it is difficult to keep the seam allowances pressed open. When the pattern allows (on straight seams), instead of pressing, stitch the seam allowances down. It is easier to stitch from the wrong side. 5. Bags in other sizes If you want to make the bag in other size, here is how to calculate the length of the side gusset. Lay a measure tape around the edge of the main panel and add about 2-3 inches. NOTE You will have to adjust the width of the gusset as well. Here is the view from the right side of the fabric. 6. Other tips Needles Do not start making a bag if you don t have to hand the right needles. Lining If you use a lightweight lining fabric you can apply interfacing to the wrong side of the lining too. Pockets Use interfacing on pockets too it makes them more durable. Zippered pockets If you need more secure space in the interior of the bag you could attach zippered pocket(s) to the lining, just like you did on the back panel of the outer bag. NOTE Adding interfacing or batting to a piece of fabric creates more bulk. Before you start making up the bag you might want to make a test to see how your sewing machine sews through thick fabrics.

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