Nieuwpoort, Ameide Huis Herlaer, Herlaer Castle Dirk Teeuwen, MSc Account of sources, text, pictures: last page. I owe many thanks to the Historical

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1 Nieuwpoort, Ameide Huis Herlaer, Herlaer Castle Dirk Teeuwen, MSc Account of sources, text, pictures: last page. I owe many thanks to the Historical Society Ameide Tienhoven : last page. This building, Voorstraat/Main Street nr 5, is from A renewal in Empire style was completed in It has been one of the offices of the Alblasserwaard Polder-Dike Board (until 1987). The old stables of the office, from the 17 th century, is at the backside, Nieuwstraat/New Street 14. Ameide Holland

2 Contents Introduction 1. Photo Gallery 2. Maps 3. Herlaer Castle, local wars in the olden days in southern Holland 4. Owners of Herlaer Castle 5. Herlaer Castle near Tienhoven, picture gallery 6. Walking back to the Protestant Church of Ameide Historical Society Ameide Tienhoven Account of sources Introduction Tienhoven, nearby Ameide; a villa from 1932, built on the remains of Herlaer Castle. The gate is from Text on the gate: Het Huys Herlaer, which means Herlaer Castle. Ameide is a village in the Dutch Province of South-Holland, coming into existence in the 10 th /11 th century. People: 3500 in Ameide is situated on the southern bank of the River Lek, a branch of River Rhine: five km east from Nieuwpoort and 55 km east from Rotterdam. 2

3 From the year (circa) 1000 untill 1255 Ameide and vicinity were the property of the old aristocratic House of Van Goor. After 1255 noblemen from the House of Van Herlaer were in control. In 1277 the small community of Ameide was granted privileges of a town by the Lord of Holland, Floris V, as well as by Floris s vassal Dirk van Herlaer. These privileges were put down in a charter. The charter stimulated a modest economic growth of this new-born town Ameide. Because of economic success the charter was completed in One has to understand that this addition granted more self-regulation to transfer goods for transport to and from River Lek. (a) Ameide became a small river port of transhipment. Merchants, established in Ameide, had an inner harbour (called Prinsengracht/Prince s Canal now) as well as an outer harbour (Voorstraat/Main Street today) and a weigh-house at their disposal. Local merchants traded in many products of course, but most important was hemp. Hemp production was the main cause of local economic prosperity with ups and downs from circa 1300 until almost Hemp was a base material for making ropes, sails, etc. and because of that hemp culture was of major importance to Dutch shipment, transport and trade. The village and its vicinity suffered a lot from local wars (from, say 1050 until 1580) and from loosing its privileges in Such because of hostilities between the Lord of Vianen, the Lord of Arkel and the Lord of Holland (see chapter 3). Vianen was/is a small town eight km east from Ameide and, officially, its Lord was a vassal of the Bishop of Utrecht. Nevertheless this Lordship mostly acted as if he was an independent aristocrat. Sometimes the rulers of Vianen tried to gain the Bishop s favour, sometimes they did as the Lords of Holland wished. Usually Vianen s aristocrats had their own way. The community of Ameide was connected with Vianen because of marriage and heritage: in 1414 Hendrik van Vianen married Heilwigh van Herlaer-Ameide. (a) Like I said: more in chapter 3. After 1600 Ameide joined in the economic prosperity of The Netherlands. With beautiful architecture on Ameide s Voorstraat/Main Street as a result. Always there was the risk of flooding. Many floods threw Ameide upon its own resources from time to time. Such as the flood in 1741 (one out of many, many floods!!!), which was a disaster in the complete area between River Lek and River Waal (branches of River Rhine) as well as in areas north and south from Lek and Waal. 3

4 1. Photo Gallery Fronts from the 17 th century, Voorstraat/Main Street; Ameide 2015 It is a view of Main Street from the dike of River Lek, branch of the Rhine. From another point: fronts from the 17 th century, Voorstraat/Main Street; Ameide

5 Dam Square; Ameide This Dam separated the inner harbour from the outer one. These houses are from the17 th century. Dutch Reformed (Protestant) Church, from 1441; Ameide

6 Voorstraat/(7 th century) Main Street again; Ameide, evening hour, March

7 The old Town Hall from 1644, Ameide

8 Lovely, but too many cars! Ameide Maps (b) Detail of the map on page 8. Places with * play an important role in this article. 8

9 3. Herlaer Castle, local wars in the olden days 13 th and 14 th century Once the remains of Herlaer Castle were to be found east from the small old church of the hamlet of Tienhoven, about one km west from Ameide Village. From east to west: Ameide, Herlaer Castle, the hamlet of Tienhoven, 1745 (c) From about 1700 the hamlet of Tienhoven only five kilometres from my residence Nieuwpoort did not change so much. Regrettably the mediaeval castle of Tienhoven, called Herlaer Huis/Herlaer Castle ( huis means brickbuilt large building in Dutch) has gone. The original castle was built in the 13 th and 14 th century (castle, 135/80 meters; rather large (3)). 9

10 This original castle was destroyed in 1388 and in The rebuilt Herlaer Huis was burnt down in The new Herlaer Country Mansion met the same fate in (d). In the 13 th and 14 th century the owners of Herlaer Castle lived within the sphere of influence of the Lords of Vianen, fiefs of the Bishop of Utrecht (see my introduction). However, Vianen felt the grasp of the Lord of Holland and Arkel s greed for territory. The Lords of Arkel were fiefs of Holland. Wars between Holland and Utrecht as well as wars between Holland and Arkel mostly were fought out between Vianen (as an ally of Utrecht, sometimes an ally of Holland) and Arkel. As a consequence the region, for many miles around, suffered death and destruction frequently. A robber baron, vassal of Holland, Otto van Arkel living only fifteen km from Tienhoven ruined Ameide, Tienhoven and Herlaer Castle (all connected with Vianen) in Otto was assisted by his son Jan, born in 1362 (d). Jan was a great help. His enthusiasm was overwhelming: looting, raping, killings, etc. Jan was an expert. Such conflicts were no incidents. The House of Arkel and the Lords of Vianen (can you still follow me?) were at another s throats almost continuously in those days. Without any mercy. I am sure that the following could cause even more confusion. I told you in my introduction: Vianen behaved as a vassal of the Bishop of Utrecht sometimes. However, more than once the opportunistic Lords of Vianen cherished feelings of friendship for the Lord of Holland. Nevertheless such shifts resulted not always in local wars, I must admit. The Lords of Vianen were always cool and calculating, war or not. As a matter of fact, these vassals Vianen as well as Arkel tried to pose as independent rulers. Count Otto ruled over Arkel and its vicinity from 1360 until 1396: officially as a fief/vassal of the Lord of Holland. He was the powerful master of Gorinchem Town on River Waal and Leerdam Town on River Linge. He also owned the area for miles around, more villages and towns: like Leerbroek, Arkel, Heukelum, Asperen as well as later: Hagestein east from Vianen, Haastrecht near Gouda (1), and many more possessions (abroad also). The House of Van Arkel was one of the wealthiest aristocratic families in Holland. After the death of Otto van Arkel in 1396, Jan V ( ) ruled Arkel etc. until From 1396, he Jan I mean also was Stadtholder of Holland, Zeeland (Zealand) and West- Friesland, acting as a sort of viceroy (Stadtholder) in the service of Albrecht, Lord of Holland. In 1401 Holland s vassal Jan V van Arkel after a conflict with his Lord Albrecht - declared himself independent. He started a war against Albrecht, operating successfully in the first place. Successfully, because Jan V van Arkel was able to rule over Arkel, Gorinchem and vicinity independently from 1401 until One could call him a condottiere with good reason. Like Otto, Jan had his seat in Arkel Castle, east from Gorinchem Town, about 15 km from Nieuwpoort and Ameide. Like Otto, our Jan ransacked the area without mercy. In 1402 Nieuwpoort, Ameide, Tienhoven, Herlaer Castle and vicinity were assailed by rascal Jan and his looting heroes. So, these small towns were ransacked, its people were raped. Its houses were set on fire. The citizens, so far as present, were massacred. Nieuwpoort, as an example: killings 23; 29 men (f) carried away as slaves; wounded, numbers unknown; rapings, numbers unknown. 10

11 Between 1402 and 1414 Ameide, Herlaer and Tienhoven and many other places were raped, robbed, burnt to ashes, by soldiers from Arkel, more than once. However, sources with more information are scarce. (e) It is my pleasure to tell you that Jan V was defeated by Holland definitely during the Battle of Vuren (near Gorinchem Town) in (2) Ameide, Herlaer, Tienhoven 1745 So, the Ameide Nieuwpoort area suffered badly from the local Arkel Wars, , and later from the local Gelderland Wars, , also. Between 1414 and 1508 there was a lot trouble as well. After 1580 peace was restored more structurally. 4. Owners of Herlaer Castle (g) Since 1266 the noble House of Van Herlaer owned the area, in and around Ameide-Tienhoven, circa 60 km from Rotterdam (6). In 1372 Hendrik van Vianen married Heywhigh van Herlaer. The last male descendents from the House Herlaer-Ameide died in the 14 th century. Heywhigh gave birth to one daughter, Johanna. Johanna van Vianen married Walraven van Brederode in As a consequence the House of Van Brederode hold sway over Vianen as well as Herlaer-Ameide until Circa 1620 the Van Brederode family built a new house on the ruins of Herlaer Castle. The new house was burnt down by the French in Both domains were inherited by the German family Von Lippe. The House von Lippe sold their properties to the Dutch (Holland) government in In 1745 Arnout van Leers ( ), a wealthy merchant from Rotterdam, bought the seigniorial rights from the government of Holland and so he became Lord of Vianen and Ameide. He gave orders to built a luxury country house and to lay out a garden on the ruins of Herlaer Castle: a project in Louis XIV style. Regrettably the country house was blown up by the French in In 1811 the ruins were demolished and the area became farm land (vegetables and fruit). From 1931 a beautiful villa can be admired on the location where once was the old Herlaer Castle as well as, later, a big house and than a mansion: once the residences of the Van Herlaers, the Van Vianens, the Van Brederodes, a Von Lippe and the Van Leers family. 11

12 5. Herlaer Castle near Tienhoven, picture gallery Despite of all hostilities during the 14 th, 15 th and 16 th centuries we discover, looking at Roghman s drawing (below), a new house. The house was built on the ruins of old Herlaer Castle in, about, Regrettably, this new house has been destroyed by the French in Herlaer Castle circa 1665 (4), seen from the east View of Herlaer, drawing by Roelant Roghman In 1672 the French, the English and some big-headed German bishops tried to wipe The Netherlands off the map. As a result The Netherlands beat them all and went on as one of the most mightiest powers in Europe. However in 1672, 45 houses were destroyed in Ameide by French raping and stealing heroes and they destroyed 18 dwellings just outside the place as well (4). Some inhabitants took their heels in time, but many others were not so lucky. Stay-behinds men, women, children were raped and killed in a most gruesome way. 12

13 Herlaer in 1734 seen from the south-west (?) Result of the French assault in 1672 A new mansion on the location of Herlaer Castle, built in 1745 Right from the house (to the west, bounded by the cemetery and the church of Tienhoven) was a beautiful Louis XIV garden, more like a park. Original drawing by Jan de Beijer ( ), copied by W. Cannegieter in

14 View of Ameide, Herlear, Tienhoven and the dike of River Lek (branch of the Rhine) in 1752 View of Herlaer and Tienhoven, Holland 1750 Drawing by Jan de Beijer Original drawing by Jan de Breijer, engraving by Hendrik Spilman ( 14

15 Villa from 1931, location Herlaer Castle; Ameide Tienhoven 2015 Protestant St Nicolas Church (from the 12 th century); Tienhoven

16 From here one could use the ferry to cross the river. Formerly a ferry café, as well as a common ale hous, from the 17 th century; later Café Welgelegen (a socalled ferry house or ferry café). Now a very beautiful stylish dwelling house. Tienhoven 2015, plus Protestant St Nicolas Church (12 th century) Protestant St Nicolas Church, 12 th century; Tienhoven 2015 Mark!!: the St Nicolas Church is almost a part of the dike. 16

17 The Protestant St Nicolas Church, Tienhoven

18 In front the former Café Welgelegen (Tienhoven s common ale house/ferry house) from the 17 th century. Right a detail of the Protestant St Nicolas Church. Mark!!: the St Nicolas Church is almost a part of the dike From (h) Rademaker, Abraham: Kabinet van Nederlandsche Outheden en Gezichten; Amsterdam 1725 by Willem Barents Boekverkoper, picture

19 Text under the picture in Rademaker s book (last picture, page 18) Tienhoven in the year 1620 between Ameide and Nieupoort. That Village hath fine prospect along the Lek River. On Rademaker s picture we see the St Nicolas Church (right) in 1620 as well as a chapel (left). Was it a chapel or not (5)? Some remarks: - Probably the chapel was a part of the Herlaer Castle area. The location of the castle was about 400 meters to the east. But as far as I know the total area of the castle with a large garden etc. reached the St Nicolas Church and its cemetery. The lower brick walls of the St Nicolas Church are from the 12 th or 13 th century, the higher brick walls are from about The church tower is from I suppose (not more than that) that the chapel has been a part of the castle and maybe was used daily. I suppose (not more than that) that the chapel was older than the St Nicolas Church is. - Was it ever a part of a monastery? I don t think so. But I am not sure. Maybe there was a (small) monastery next to the castle. - The chapel, as well as the St Nicolas Church (on Rademaker s picture, page18), were to be found outside the dike (riverside of the dike). Maybe on old river dunes. - Later the dike was reconstructed right from the St Nicolas Church. From then the Church stood in a sharp bend of the dike (see first picture on page 18 and the second one on page 16). - After the reconstruction of the dike the Church as well as the chapel were situated on the landside of the dike. - Until 1947 the chapel - it formed a part of a farm then (since 1877) stood more to the east at the other side of the dike: I mean, diagonally opposite Café Welgelegen. See first picture on page The chapel an its farm were destroyed by fire in 1947 (4). - I realize: many questions, doubtful answers. 6. Walking back to the Protestant Church of Ameide The church in

20 The tower of Ameide s main church is from 1361, the nave was constructed during the 15 th century. The church survived the war disasters of 1398, 1402, etc, and many floods as well. However, a fire laid he church in ruins in 1953, but it has been rebuilt in 1954/55. Most, old and valuable, moveable property was destroyed as a consequence. 20

21 Protestant Church of Ameide in 2011 Protestant Church of Ameide in

22 Historical Society Ameide Tienhoven I owe thanks to the Historical Society Ameide Tienhoven and specially to Mr Gert Groenendijk. The Historical Society Ameide Tienhoven has been founded in 1989 with circa 650 members at this moment. The population of Ameide Tienhoven counts about 3500 people, so the number of members is relatively considerable. Locally genealogical research, archival research and collecting literature etc. and lectures are good examples of many activities. The Society has its office/museum inside the old town hall in Ameide. The Society has been registered with the Chamber of Commerce (main office in Utrecht) under number The bank account number of the Society NL42 RABO Rabobank, Ameide. Address: Broekseweg 59, 4233 CT Ameide Holland Local T From abroad T info@ameide-tienhoven.nl Account of sources First picture right (laughing young woman) onthorst_- _De_koppelaarster.jpg Public domain a. b. From > Bos-Niemeyer: Atlas voor de Volksschool; The Hague Holland 1922 c. Public domain d. Bikker, T.: De Arkelse Oorlog; Culemborg Holland 2009, page 1 e. Kastelen. Son, C. van: Vaderlandsche Historie; Delft Holland 1926 Robidé vander Aa, M.C.P.E.: Oud-Nederland; Nijmegen1841 Prop, G.: De historie van het oude Gelre onder eigen vorsten; Zutphen Holland 1963 Visser, P.: De laatsten der Arkels; Alkmaar Holland circa 1955 Wikipedia f. Kerkwijk, P.A.: Alblasserwaard en Vijfheerenlanden; Ameide 1980 (?) page 51 Bikker, T.: De Arkelse Oorlog; Culemborg Holland 2009 g. Historical Society Ameide Tienhoven h. Rademaker, Abraham: Kabinet van Nederlandsche Outheden en Gezichten; Amsterdam 1725 by Willem Barents Boekverkoper, picture 188 (1) Otto devolved his powers to his son Jan: Haastrecht 1380, Hagestein (2) Jan V was jailed (Gouda and Leerdam) from 1414 until He died in Leerdam in (3) Wikipedia (4) Historische Vereniging Ameide en Tienhoven (5) Groningen, C.L.: De Alblasserwaard, Nederlandse monumenten van geschiedenis en kunst; Zwolle Holland 1992 pag. 145 See also text and text on pictures Ending 22