SYNTHESIS OF THE CONTRIBUTION OF THE GiESCO (Group of international Experts of vitivinicultural Systems for CoOperation) TO THE STUDY OF TERROIRS
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1 SYNTHESIS OF THE CONTRIBUTION OF THE GiESCO (Group of international Experts of vitivinicultural Systems for CoOperation) TO THE STUDY OF TERROIRS A. Carbonneau (1), G. Cargnello (2), Hernan Ojeda (3), J. Tonietto (4), H. Schultz (5). (1) Professor of Viticulture of Montpellier SupAgro, President of GiESCO, IHEV, bâtiment 28, 2 place Viala, F Montpellier cedex2 carbonne@supagro.inra.fr (2) giovanni.cargnello@entecra.it (3) ojeda@supagro.inra.fr (4) tonietto@cnpuv.embrapa.br (5) h.schultz@fa-gm.de ABSTRACT Since 1998, the GiESCO (previously named GESCO: Groupe d Etude des Systèmes de COnduite de la vigne) has provided the scientific community with relevant contributions to the study of terroirs. Here is a synthesis of the main terroir-related fields and the major ideas the GiESCO has developed: Basic Terroir Unit and climate, Vine Ecophysiology and microclimate moderate drought, Vineyard heterogeneity and new technologies, Viticultural Terroir Unit and canopy management, Terroir Territory and man. KEYWORDS Terroir, Basic Terroir Unit, Viticultural Terroir Unit, territory, climate, soil, Ecophysiology, microclimate, water limitation, new technologies, canopy management, training system, cultivation techniques, wine quality, economics. INTRODUCTION The name of Terroir has a double origin: - Latin as territorium, which means an identified and controlled space, - French as Terroir, which means a region giving original natural products. The concept of Terroir was used for many purposes: to guarantee the authenticity of products against frauds, to justify an economical advantage linked to a specific property, to synthesize an historical local experience, to strengthen the defence of a community of growers facing economical competition, to explain the characteristics or the typicity if the wines. Quite recently, around the 1980 s, a scientific approach of Terroir was developed by several teams and led to establish some relations between some elements of the natural environment and some of the wines. At that stage, geology and soil were considered as the major components of the Terroir. On such basis, new scientific developments on Terroir occurred, and the GiESCO was concerned about The main contributions of the group (CR GiESCO and GiESCO/OIV; Carbonneau et al., 2007) are summarized as follows. BASIC TERROIR UNIT (BTU) AND CLIMATE Key idea: Climate is dominant and interacts with the soil and the subsoil. It appears that many vine responses to physical environment were dependant both on soil and on climate, particularly when dealing with the soil water availability. That led to the concept
2 of interaction mesoclimate x soil/subsoil which was named Basic Terroir Unit (Carbonneau et al., 2007). The progress in vineyard climatology opened new ways to study terroirs (Tonietto, 1999; Tonietto and Carbonneau, 2004). With the possibility to work on a macroclimate scale of viticultural regions worldwide and monitoring the climate change impact on viticulture, the Géoviticulture MCC System is a tool at the BTU scale. It allows the characterization of viticultural potential of the BTU for helping its management. Using three climatic viticultural indices Heliothermal index, Cool night index and Dryness index, the system makes possible to study the interaction of mesoclimate x soil and its relation with the plant and grape quality, including the vintage effect. It can be optimised with specific climatic variables for a particular BTU. The methodology, examples of use and bibliography of the system are available in the site VINE ECOPHYSIOLOGY AND MICROCLIMATE MODERATE DROUGHT Key idea: Microclimate is the real environment and water limitation the main regulation. Many cultural methods will modify the interaction of the plant with the environment. These interactions are extremely complex and exist on several organisational levels. Most important are micro-climatic effects (Carbonneau et al., 2007; Smart, 1976) near the fruiting zone and whole-plant responses (Carbonneau, 1980, 1995; equilibrium Exposed Leaf Area Production Vigour : Carbonneau et al., 2007) which can be modified by viticultural decisions with respect to row orientation, canopy form or architecture (new modelling is under development: Louarn et al., 2005). Water relations in this context seem most important but can not be completely separated from temperature and light. For example leaf drop initiated by water deficit will alter temperature and light conditions around the fruit. The challenge with respect to research is to quantify these effects on key quality components in order to deduct viticultural strategies to optimise the interaction between plant, soil and climate. The concept of moderate water limitation during grape berry maturation, as optimal for berry and wine quality, was validated. More, that situation appeared to correspond to maximum terroir expression into wines. The following works on all those aspects need to be cited as examples of all those aspects: Bondada and Keller, 2007; Carbonneau, 1980, 1995, 2000, 2004; Carbonneau et al., 2006, 2007; Carbonneau and Bahar, 2009; Kliewer, 1977; Ojeda, 1999; Palliotti et al., 2007; Schultz, 1995; Smith et al., 2007; Wang, VINEYARD HETEROGENEITY AND NEW TECHNOLOGIES Key idea: Environment is basically heterogeneous and measurable by new technologies. The collection of high-resolution spatial information on crop production is now possible in Viticulture. This information includes measurements of the local environment, including soil, canopy growth and the final quantity (fig.1) and quality of production. Tools and methods are now available or under development to characterize the heterogeneity of the vineyard. They allow a detailed knowledge of systems of production which are difficult to obtain with the classic methods of measurement. Information on the spatial structure of production variation is of importance as it provides an idea of how site-specific management may be applied to a particular field with the objective to control both the yield and grape quality of harvest. Knowing that heterogeneity, one may use it for producing separated specific wines, even from the same plot, or for blending and increasing wine complexity
3 Figure 1. Map of yield recorded at the approximate level of individual vines, of an heterogeneous Figure 1. plot Map at of INRA yield Pech recorded Rouge at the Experimental approximate Unit level (Montpellier, of individual France). vines, of Notice an the heterogeneous existence of plot 3 different at INRA zones Pech, Rouge and the Experimental possibility to Unit harvest (Montpellier, the bottom France). one separately. Notice the existence Figure of 1. Map different of yield zones recorded and at the the possibility approximate to harvest level of the individual bottom vines, one separately. of an VITICULTURAL heterogeneous Figure 1. Map plot TERROIR of at INRA yield recorded Pech UNIT Rouge at (VTU) the Experimental approximate AND CANOPY Unit level (Montpellier, of MANAGEMENT individual France). vines, Notice of an the VITICULTURAL Figure 1. Map of yield recorded at the approximate level of individual vines, of an heterogeneous existence of plot 3 different at TERROIR INRA zones Pech UNIT, Rouge and (VTU) the Experimental possibility AND CANOPY to Unit harvest (Montpellier, the MANAGEMENT bottom one France). separately. Notice the heterogeneous Key plot at INRA Pech Rouge Experimental Unit (Montpellier, France). Notice the existence idea: Canopy of 3 different management zones and, and architecture the possibility are to part harvest of Terroir the bottom and wine one typicity. separately. existence of different zones and the possibility to harvest the bottom one separately. Key The VITICULTURAL idea: diversity Canopy of architectures management TERROIR was and UNIT described architecture (VTU) by AND Carbonneau are CANOPY part of and Terroir MANAGEMENT Cargnello, and wine 2003). typicity. Particular training The VITICULTURAL diversity systems of architectures were TERROIR created was and UNIT described studied (VTU) to by AND complete Carbonneau CANOPY the traditional and MANAGEMENT Cargnello, 2003). Particular VITICULTURAL training Key idea: systems Canopy TERROIR were management UNIT created and and studied architecture (VTU) AND to complete are CANOPY part the of Terroir MANAGEMENT choices (Carbonneau, 1980, 2009; Carbonneau and Cargnello, 2003; Carbonneau traditional et al., 2008; and choices wine Castro typicity. (Carbonneau, et al., 1996; 1980, The 2009; diversity Carbonneau of architectures and Cargnello, was described 2003; by Carbonneau and et al., Cargnello, 2008; Castro 2003). et Particular Clingeleffer, Key idea: Canopy 1999; management Shaulis et al., and 1966). architecture are part of Terroir and wine typicity. al., 1996; Key Clingeleffer, training idea: Canopy systems management 1999; were Shaulis created et al., and and 1966). studied architecture to complete are part the of traditional Terroir and choices wine (Carbonneau, typicity. Numerous The diversity trials of on architectures training systems was described and canopy by Carbonneau management and were Cargnello, performed 2003). and Particular presented The Numerous 1980, diversity 2009; of trials Carbonneau architectures training and was systems Cargnello, described and canopy 2003; by Carbonneau management et and al., Cargnello, were 2008; performed Castro 2003). et and al., Particular presented 1996; by training the GiESCO systems on were physiological created and or studied technical to complete aspects, among the traditional them was choices possible (Carbonneau, training to check by Clingeleffer, systems the GiESCO 1999; were physiological Shaulis created et al., and 1966). studied to complete the traditional choices (Carbonneau, 1980, that or technical aspects, among them it was possible to check 1980, that Numerous the 2009; 2009; canopy Carbonneau the canopy trials Carbonneau architecture and Cargnello, architecture training and systems Cargnello, interacts interacts and with 2003; 2003; with canopy the Carbonneau Carbonneau the management environmental et al., et environmental were al., factors 2008; 2008; factors performed to Castro Castro determine al., to determine and presented al., terroir 1996; 1996; Clingeleffer, expression terroir Clingeleffer, expression by the GiESCO into 1999; 1999; wines Shaulis into wines on Shaulis physiological (Carbonneau, et al., 1966). et al., 1966). (Carbonneau, or 2000, 2000, technical 2004; 2004; aspects, Carbonneau Carbonneau among et et them al., 2006, al., 2006, it was 2007). 2007). possible This This to check was the Numerous occasion was the Numerous occasion that the to trials to canopy trials deepen on training on deepen architecture training sudies systems systems sudies on interacts wine and and sensory canopy wine sensory with canopy the analysis management management analysis environmental and were were typicity performed and typicity factors performed to in in determine relation and presented and presented to relation terroir berry by maturation the GiESCO berry by expression the GiESCO (Fig.2; on into on wines Carbonneau, physiological physiological (Carbonneau, 2007). or technical aspects, among them it was possible to check or 2000, technical 2004; aspects, Carbonneau among et al., them 2006, it was 2007). possible This was to check the maturation that (Fig.2; Carbonneau, 2007). that occasion the canopy the canopy to deepen architecture architecture sudies interacts interacts on wine with with sensory the the analysis environmental environmental and typicity factors factors in to to relation determine determine to berry terroir terroir expression maturation into (Fig.2; wines (Carbonneau, 2007). 2000, 2004; Carbonneau black et pepper,clove al., 2006, 2007). This was the expression into wines (Carbonneau, 2000, 2004; Carbonneau et al., 2006, 2007). This was the occasion to deepen sudies on wine sensory analysis and black pepper,clove typicity in relation to berry occasion to deepen sudies on wine sensory analysis and typicity in relation to berry violet derivated aromatic evolutions of the berry maturation (Fig.2; Carbonneau, 2007). maturation (Fig.2; Carbonneau, 2007). black pepper,clove (skin?) violet grape berry grape sugar loading berry sugar loading grape berry sugar loading grape berry grape sugar berry loading sugar loading derivated aromatic evolutions of the berry (skin?) violet derivated aromatic evolutions of the berry black pepper,clove (skin?) black pepper,clove rock powder rock powder of violet derivated aromatic evolutions of the berry violet derivated aromatic black olive, dried plum (skin?) evolutions of the leather berry rock powder (skin?) black olive, dried plum leather citrus black currant whortleberry or black currant black olive, dried plum leather citrus black strawberry currant whortleberry or black jam currant strawberry jam green black rock powder citrus black currant whortleberry or black currant green pepper black currant leaf rock powder strawberry jam pepper currant leaf black olive, dried plum basic aromatic evolution leather of green black black olive, dried plum basic the grape aromatic berry leather evolution (pulp?) of pepper currant leaf citrus black currant whortleberry or or the black grape currant berry (pulp?) citrus black currant maximum whortleberry of colour intensity or basic black aromatic evolution of strawberry jam currant strawberry maximum of colour intensity the grape jam berry (pulp?) green black maximum of green black maximum of colour intensity pepper currant leaf maximum polyphenol of complexity pepper currant leaf of maximum polyphenol basic aromatic of complexity evolution of basic aromatic evolution of polyphenol the grape complexity berry (pulp?) the grape berry (pulp?) maximum of colour intensity maximum of colour intensity time maximum of time maximum polyphenol of complexity time UNFOLDING OF TYPICITY (links between aromatic impressions) polyphenol complexity UNFOLDING OF TYPICITY Complex (links SYRAH between aromatic impressions) UNFOLDING OF TYPICITY Complex (links SYRAH between aromatic impressions) Complex SYRAH time Figure 2. Modelling for Syrah the relationship between dynamics of berry sugar loading time and Figure periods Figure 2. of 2. Modelling occurrence Modelling for for of Syrah Syrah specific the the relationship relationship between between dynamics dynamics of of berry berry sugar sugar loading loading and and UNFOLDING aromatic OF TYPICITY characteristics (links between in aromatic the wine: impressions) the general basic and periods periods of of occurrence occurrence of of specific UNFOLDING specific aromatic OF TYPICITY characteristics Complex (links SYRAH between in in aromatic the the wine: wine: impressions) unfolding trend of fruity-type aromas (coloured segments) and some specific the the general general derived basic basic aromas. and and Complex SYRAH unfolding unfolding trend trend of of fruity-type aromas (coloured segments) and and some some specific specific derived derived aromas. aromas. Figure 2. Modelling for Syrah the relationship between dynamics of berry sugar loading and Figure 2. Modelling for Syrah the relationship between dynamics of berry sugar loading and periods of occurrence of specific aromatic characteristics in the wine: the general basic and 3 periods of occurrence of specific aromatic characteristics in the wine: the general basic and unfolding trend of fruity-type aromas (coloured 1-18segments) and some specific derived aromas. 3 unfolding trend of fruity-type aromas (coloured segments) and some specific derived aromas.
4 The concept of Viticultural Terroir Unit (VTU) emerged and was defined as the interaction between the BTU, the variety and the cultivation system (training system or canopy management, and soil management). Understanding and experimenting some training systems and cultivation techniques (irrigation, soil management ), measuring the interactions with climate and soil, the main ecophysiological responses of the plant, and the consequences on wine typicity and quality, allow to understand the particularities of the VTU. Some examples in mediterranean terroirs will be summarized, showing new data on the influence of water regulation on wine typicity and root system (Carbonneau, Ojeda et al., 2006). Thus, canopy management is proved to have a strong influence on wine typicity and quality, demonstrating that cultivation practices are part of the terroir (Carbonneau, 2000, 2004; Carbonneau et al., 2007). The vine grower has to find the optimal choice of cultivation techniques, varieties, to express the terroir as much as possible into original wines, or at the opposite to standardize the terroir effects for other wines. TERROIR TERRITORY AND MAN Key idea: Terroir gathers Viticultural Terroir Units inside a territory and man is the centre. The VTU must be integrated at the more important level of the territory. At that scale one deals with the general terroir. Scaling up from the plot to the vineyard and the territory, and facing socio-economical problems, allows to deal with the reality of the problems in Viticulture. A general methodology was proposed by Cargnello (Carbonneau and Cargnello, 2003) in order to evaluate the adaptation of the cultivation system to all objectives of the company, the environment, the market and the man: the Great Chain based on the work of a jury of different experts. In that approach, man has a central position, considering for instance that the wine quality is not only the quality we can analyse through laboratory instruments, even through jury of experts in sensory analysis, but the quality which can be detected and liked by the consumer, which also can be purchased by him. The sustainability of the environment and the viticulture, the general quality of living, are also to be taken in account. Measuring that is extremely difficult and complex; but at the moment, the Great Chain is the only one available methodology which was already tested in some Italian terroirs. In particular, it is critical to define new models of sustainable Viticulture, jointly liable and fair way. In addition to what stated above in the report and in the choice of the grounds to assign to wine, GiESCO has provided a decisive contribution to take into account and to connect economic goals as well as socio-environmental targets and existential or ethical objectives through means. That is the more general sense we can attribute to the terroir. CONCLUSIONS Since 1999 at least, the GiESCO has deeply contributed to the scientific and technological progress of the study of terroirs in Viticulture, as far as the group, starting from canopy management, was progressively widened to interacting fields such as Ecophysiology, Climatology, New Technologies, Cultivation Systems, Wine Quality, Territory and Economics. New developments concern either specific scientific studies (ie. Changing physiological stresses), or integrative pluridisciplinary approaches. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS: To all members contributing to GiESCO activity
5 BIBLIOGRAPHY Basic bibliography : Comptes Rendus du GESCO ou du GiESCO : - CR n 10, 1998 Changins - CR n 11, 1999 Marsala - CR n 12, 2001 Montpellier - CR n 13, 2003 Montevideo - CR n 14, 2005 Geisenheim - CR n 15, 2007 Poreč - CR n 16, 2009 Davis Comptes Rendus communs GESCO/OIV-Zonage: , Tenerife , Capetown Bondada B., Keller M., Grape berry shrivel : symptomatology, probable causes, and its effect on fruit quality. CR GESCO 15, vol.1, Carbonneau A., Recherche sur les systèmes de conduite de la vigne : essai de maîtrise du microclimat et de la plante entière pour produire économiquement du raisin de qualité. Thèse Université Bordeaux 2, Lavoisier, Payot Ed., 240p. Carbonneau A., La Surface Foliaire Exposée potentielle. Guide pour sa mesure. Progr. Agric. Vitic., 112(9), correctif [112(10)]. Carbonneau A Climat et sol : critères d évaluation et effets sur le comportement de la vigne. 3er Simposio Internacional Zonificacion Vitivinicola, Tenerife, 9-12 mai 2000, tome 1, Carbonneau A., Role of trellising system and canopy size/exposure in zone/terroir expression. International Conference on Viticultural Zoning Programme, Cape Town South Africa, November Carbonneau A., Théorie de la maturation et de la typicité du raisin. Progr. Agric. Vitic. (Comité de Lecture), et CR GESCO 15, 123 (13-14), Carbonneau A., The concept of modulated canopy management : application to the modulated shoot positioning MSP and to the Modulated Minimal Pruning MMP. CR GiESCO 16, Carbonneau A., Cargnello G., Architectures de la Vigne et systèmes de conduite. Dunod Paris Ed., 188p. Carbonneau A., Ojeda H., Samson A., Pacos J., Jolivot A., Heywang M., Chaîne méthodologique d analyse de la qualité : exemple du bilan vitivinicole des essais de conduite de la Syrah en terroir sec à l Unité Expérimentale de Pech Rouge. Progr. Agric. Vitic. (Comité de Lecture), et CR GESCO 14, 123 (15-16), Carbonneau A., Deloire A., Jaillard B., La Vigne : Physiologie, Terroir, Culture. Dunod Paris Ed., 442p + annexes. Carbonneau A., Murisier F., Cargnello G., Passerillage sur Souche : une technique innovante au service de la viticulture durable ; une alternative à l enrichissement en sucres ; synthèse d essais en France, Suisse, Italie. Comm. 31 ème Congrès Mondial de la Vigne et du Vin OIV, juin 2008, Vérone, Italie, Résumés p41, document complet disponible (Carbonneau A.). Carbonneau A., Bahar E., Vine and berry responses to contrasted water fluxes in Ecotron around véraison. Manipulation of berry shrivelling and consequences on berry growth, sugar loading and maturation. CR GiESCO 16,
6 Castro R. de, Cargnello G., Intrieri C., Carbonneau A., Une nouvelle méthode de conduite proposée pour expérimentation par le GESCO : la forme LYS. Progr. Agric. Vitic., (Comité de Lecture), 112(22), Clingeleffer P.R., Developments in Australian winegrape production. CR GESCO 11, vol. 1, Kliewer W.M., L influence de la température, de la radiation solaire, de l azote et du cépage sur la coloration du raisin. Symp. Int. OIV sur la qualité de la vendange, le Cap, Afrique du Sud, février 1977, Oenological and Viticultural Research Institute Stellenbosch, South Africa, Ed., Louarn G., Lebon E., Lecoeur J., «Top-Vine», a topiary approach based architectural model to simulate canopy structure. CR GESCO 14, Moser L., Weinbau einmal anders. Selbstverlag, Krems, Autriche, 313p. Ojeda H., Influence de la contrainte hydrique sur la croissance du péricarpe et sur l évolution des phénols des baies de raisin (Vitis vinifera L.) cv. Syrah. Thèse Doct. Agro Montpellier, 159p. Palliotti A., Silvestroni O., Petoumenou D., Vignaroli S., Berrios J.G., Light-avoiding capability in Sangiovese leaves during water stress, and effects on photoinhibition and gas exchange. CR GESCO 15, Schultz H.R., Grape canopy structure, light microclimate and photosynthesis. I. A two dimensional model of the spatial distribution of surface area densities and leaf ages in two canopy systems. Vitis, 34(4), Shaulis N., Amberg H., Crowe D., Response of Concord grapes to light exposure and Geneva double curtain training. Proc. Am. Soc. Hort. Sci., 89, Smart R.E., Implication of the radiation microclimate for productivity of vineyards. PhD Thesis Cornell university, Ithaca, New York, 174p. Smith J., Quirk L., Holzapfel B., Relationship between carbohydrate reserves and grapevine productivity, and the use of wood starch concentrations as yield forecasting tool. CR GESCO 15, vol. 1, Tonietto J., Les macroclimats viticoles mondiaux et l influence du mésoclimat sur la typicité de la Syrah et du Muscat de Hambourg dans le sud de la France. Méthodologie de caractérisation. Thèse de Doctorat, Agro Montpellier, 233p. Tonietto J., Carbonneau A., A multicriteria climatic classification system for grapegrowing regions worldwide. Agricultural and Forest Meteorology, 124 (1-2), Wang Z., Influence de la contrainte hydrique et de l architecture sur la distribution des sucres dans la vigne (Vitis vinifera L.) cv. Syrah. Thèse Doct. Agro Montpellier, 226p. Internet site (MCC method and results):
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