The Bra-makers Manual

Transcription

1 The Bra-makers Manual I Table of Contents 1. The History of The Bra The Bra Family Tree So Who Invented the First Bra? The Twenties and Thirties The Rise of Elastic Wartime and the Boomer Years Burn That Bra! That 70 s Look The Feminine Mystique of the 1980s The Return to Cleavage 1990s 2. Terms and Definitions Parts of a Bra Types of Bras Cups Frames Bridges Straps Bra Findings 3. What is Good Fit? What is Good Fit? Characteristics of a Well-fitting bra Measuring for Ready-to-wear (North American method) Measuring for Ready-to-wear (International method) Calculating Bra Sizes by Measurement The Underwire System International Bra Sizing Conversion Chart 4. Making Fabric Choices Knits or Wovens Knit terms Percentage and Direction of Pull Beefing Up the Fabric Fibre Content Fabric Pull and how it Affects Design Fabric quantities Elastic Terms

2 II The Bra-makers Manual 5. Obtaining the Pattern Home Sewing Patterns Cloning a Ready-to-wear Bra Breast Moulds Bra Drafting Software Drafting a Bra Pattern From a Sloper Professional Bra Blocks Terms Used in bra Design Relating the Bra to the Pattern Pieces Evaluating a Bra Pattern Observations about Bra Grading An Easy Way to Grade a Bra Pattern Grading One Size Larger 6. Birth of a Bra The Tester Cups Designing a Bra One Piece at a Time Fabric Selection Framework Closure Seamline Variations Bridge and Band Detail Straps Bra Design Sheet 7. The Construction Process Setting Up to Sew The Equipment The Tools Preparing the Fabric Before Cutting Construction Sequence of a Full Band Bra Construction Sequence of a Partial Band Bra Alternate Methods of Construction Alternate Methods of Front Strap Attachment Alternate Methods of Back Strap Attachment Choices for Wire Line Treatments Alternate Band Construction Common Mistakes Everyone Makes

3 The Bra-makers Manual III 8. Fitting to a Live Model Fittings Prior to Sewing Assessing The First Fitting Alterations to the Straps Alterations to the Band Alterations to the Bridge Alterations to the Cups 9. Style Changes for Fashion Minor Style Changes Major Style Changes The Strapless Bra 10. Style Changes for Special Needs Support Challenges Sports Bras Nursing Bras Mastectomy Bras 11. Appendix Suggested Further Reading Wire chart Client Information and Design Sheet Fitting and Style Change Drawings List of Sample Providers 12. Index

4 IV The Bra-makers Manual Thanks to.. They say all things happen for a reason is this exciting career of mine the whole reason behind the path my life has taken for over 50 years? When I think back to all the things I have done and seen and tried, they all lead to where I am today. Without sounding philosophical, where I am today is because of all that I have done, and what has happened to me. So, in that vein, I thank God for what has transpired in my life (the good and the bad; the joys and the tragedies) to make me the person who writes these words. All books are a team effort, and to say otherwise, would be unfair to the many people who helped make it happen. First to all, credit must go to my Professional bra-making students, all of whom spend several months learning bra design, draft, fit and construction in our school in Hamilton, Ontario. You, ladies, were the inspiration for this book. I apologize that the book was not in its final format (and not many drawings) when many of you were studying! Next, thanks to the 5,000 women who took my Personal Bra-making classes all over Canada and the United States. You were the real-life models, on whom I tested and modified my patterns, so I could make them better. I can t forget to thank my team of Certified Instructors who are actively teaching the home sewist to make her own bras. These ladies travel all over the world to bring the Beverly Johnson Method of Bra-making to places I no longer visit. Thank you for your input and constructive criticism over the years; I rely on your eyes to tell me what needs improving. Special thanks to Ray Johnson, my wonderful webmaster, who willingly makes changes to our website so the information is up and running, and as accurate as possible. Ray and I co-authored the Trans-Canada Stitcher s Guide in 1995 and we started Bramakers Supply in the basement, so he has been involved since day one. He also helped with the proofreading and solved all of the computer glitches. Rochelle Caron made dozens of sample cups as well as proofreading several times. Judy Lantz, Becky Makellky, Fran Brook and Linda Crawford also helped with the proofreading. Of course, I have to thank my partner for all the times we gave up weekend plans because of one more chapter or one last drawing. Lastly, and mostly, thanks to you, Mom, for getting me that first treadle sewing machine, and encouraging me to pursue a teaching career. Combining the two was the best thing that could have happened. Beverly Johnson

5 The Bra-makers Manual V Introduction I don t mind telling you, that when I got interested in bra-making, there was absolutely nothing in print about bra design or bra-making. Surprise! The few words I did find in one book basically told readers to leave bra-making to the professionals. Thanks a lot! So I called the professionals, the bra manufacturers, in order to glean what information I could about helping women sew their own bras. That s when I got my second surprise. No one would tell me anything! The bra-making industry was, and is, extremely secretive, and whatever trade secrets they learned over the years, they certainly weren t sharing with anyone. I did find out that a career in the industry is a very long, slow learning process. Graduates of fashion design school (who rarely learn how to draft a bra) are taken in to work alongside a seasoned pattern-maker. The new apprentice will be given routine tasks such as correcting line lengths, checking match points and jobs of that nature. One gal who is now an independent pattern-maker with 35 years in the industry, told me it took seven years before she was trusted enough to draft an entire bra by herself. Where are these manufacturers today? Most of the large manufacturers have left this country to produce their goods off-shore. The golden days of domestic manufacturing are over. There is a silver lining to what appears to be the grey cloud of global trading. More and more, women disappointed with the ill-fitting bras of ready-to-wear, added to the frustration of finding a bra, only to have it discontinued the next season, have created a wonderful niche for an enterprising home sewist. Women who can sew, can make bras for themselves, and may even wish to start making made-to-measure bras for other women. What a wonderful opportunity for a new business! Didn t I tell you there weren t any books on bra-making? Up until now, there hasn t been a book that details the process of bra design, draft, fit and construction. In the following pages, you will follow the history of the bra and its tumultuous separation from its sister garment, the corset. Then you will follow the design process, and where to find patterns for the basic bra. Once you make a bra that fits in the cups, you can change the style line of that bra to create a virtual library of different styles, and all of them fitting as well as the original. If you have occasion to make a mastectomy bra, or a nursing bra, even a strapless bra, those details are here too. There is no greater gift one woman can do for another than to help her into a comfortable, supportive, and pretty bra. I hope this book starts you on a wonderful journey into the satisfying world of the made-to-measure bra-maker. The process of getting there should be as enjoyable as the goal. Enjoy the journey! Beverly Johnson

6 VI The Bra-makers Manual Dedicated to three amazing women in my life Viva Arsenault Gilda MacAdams Joyce Hall