Recent Developments in Textile Materials and Products Used for Activewear and Sportswear

Transcription

1 Tekstil Teknolojileri Elektronik Dergisi Cilt: 8, No: 3, 2014 (68-83) Electronic Journal of Textile Technologies Vol: 8, No: 3, 2014 (68-83) TEKNOLOJİK ARAŞTIRMALAR e-issn: Derleme (Review) Recent Developments in Textile Materials and Products Used for Activewear and Sportswear Nilgün ÖZDİL*, Subhash ANAND** * Ege Üniversitesi Tekstil Mühendisliği Bölümü, Bornova-İzmir- Türkiye ** Institute of Materials Research and Innovation University of Bolton, Bolton, U.K. nilgun.ozdil@ege.edu.tr Abstract The peoples demand in all areas of textile fabrics and garments are going up because of the increasing standard of the worldwide. Especially, dramatic growth in sportswear market has significant implications for the textile industry. Consumers demand high levels of comfort, design and easy care, not only in daily used garments, but also in activewear and sportswear. Recently developed functional fibres, innovations in new structures and garments contribute substantially to the wearing comfort of these type of clothes. Nowadays, from very simple microfibres to much more complex fabric structures are effectively used in sportswear garments. The paper will focus on the textile materials and products specially designed for activewear and sportswear. Thermophysiological comfort properties of the fabrics will be reviewed. The fibres, yarns, fabrics and special finishing treatments used for sportswear in order to enhance performance and properties of sportswear will be discussed. Keywords: Sportswear, Thermophysiological Comfort, Functional Fibres, Special Finishes, Functional Garments Özet Spor ve Aktif Giyimde Kullanılan Tekstil Malzeme ve Ürünlerinde Son Gelişmeler Dünya çapında yükselen standartlar nedeniyle insanların tekstil kumaşlarından ve giysilerinden beklentileri de artmaktadır. Özellikle spor giysi pazarındaki çarpıcı büyümenin tekstil endüstrisi için önemli bir etkisi vardır. Tüketiciler sadece günlük giysilerinde değil aktif ve spor giysilerinden de konforlu, iyi tasarımlı ve bakımı kolay olmasını beklemektedirler. Son yıllarda geliştirilen fonksiyonel lifler, yeni konstrüksiyon ve giysilerdeki yenilikler bu tip giysilerin giyim konforuna önemli ölçüde katkı sağlamaktadır. Günümüzde çok basit mikro liflerden çok kompleks kumaş yapılarına kadar spor giysilerde kullanılmaktadır. Makale özellikle aktif ve spor giyimde kullanılan tekstil malzemeleri ve giysilerine odaklanmaktadır. Bu amaçla kullanılan kumaşların ısıl konfor özellikleri incelenmiştir. Spor giysilerin özelliklerini ve performansını artırmak için kullanılan lif, iplik, kumaşlar ve özel terbiye işlemleri tartışılmıştır. Anahtar Kelimeler: Spor giysi, Isıl konfor, Fonksiyonel lifler, Özel bitim işlemleri, Fonksiyonel giysiler Bu makaleye atıf yapmak için Özdil N., Anand S., Spor ve Aktif Giyimde Kullanılan Tekstil Malzeme ve Ürünlerinde Son Gelişmeler Tekstil Teknolojileri Elektronik Dergisi 2014, 8(3) How to cite this article Özdil N., Anand S., Recent Developments in Textile Materials and Products Used for Activewear and Sportswear Electronic Journal of Textile Technologies, 2014, 8 (3)

2 Özdil N., Anand S. Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2014 (3) INTRODUCTION The dramatic growth in actiwear and sportswear market has significant implications for the textile industry [1]. The people are paying more attention to sports activity and that the market for sportswear continues to expand. Developing sportswear solutions in this field are invaluable in order to produce an adequate response to these increasingly demanding expectations [2]. Consumers demand high levels of comfort, design and easy care in all types of clothing. But the performance requirements of many sports goods often demand widely different properties from their constituent fibres and fabrics, such as barrier to rain, snow, cold, heat and strength and at the same time these textiles must fulfil the consumer requirements of drape, comfort, fit and ease of movement. The main requirements for active sportswear can be classified in two main categories: 1. Functional requirements: - super lightweight. - super high tenacity. - stretchability to provide the freedom of movement necessary in sports. - good vapour permeability to ensure that the body vapour passes outward through all layers of the clothing system, prevention of feeling of dampness. - optimum heat regulation to maintain body temperature. - dimensional stability, even when wet. - protection from wind, cold and adverse weather conditions. - quick drying to prevent catching cold. - water proofing. - UV resistance. 2. Aesthetical requirements: - soft and pleasant to skin. - lustre, colour variation. - comfort in wear [2,3,4]. Sportswear must protect the human body from the environment and, at the same time, support mobile functionality and comfort, when worn by the wearer. Garments worn in sporting activities have different properties and performances attributes according to the activity carried out (Table1). For example, in sports like football and basketball where there is intense multi-directional activity, loose-fitting and comfortable clothes are required; in activities such as swimming and cycling where speedy body movements are important, skin-tight or well-fitting clothes are preferred. And also if the weather is cold, the clothing must exhibit a high level of thermal insulation, but when the wearer is hot the level of thermal insulation must be low[5]. 69

3 Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2014 (3) Spor ve Aktif Giyimde Kullanılan Tekstil Malzeme ve Ürünlerinde. Table 1: Required functions of the main sportswear [2,6] Sportswear Required Function Shirts for tennis, volleyball, golf, football, Sweat absorption and transfer, fast drying, rugby, baseball uniform, tracksuits etc. cooling. Skiwear, wind breakers, rainwear Vapour permeability, water proofing Skiwear, wind breakers, tracksuits Sunlight absorbing and thermal retention Swimming race and skating costume, ski Low fluid resistance (for water and air) jump and downhill skiing suits, cycling costumes Swimwear, leotards, skating costume Stretchability, opacity Skiwear, snowboard wear, football and High tenacity, water vapour permeability, baseball uniform evaporative heat transfer, quick drying and maintaining body core temperature The latest sports textile materials are much more functional in fulfilling specific needs in different sports activities. Sportswear fabrics and apparel that are made for high performance have become a necessity. Developments in active sportswear fabrics has been progressing to perform high functions and to achieve comfort. The sportswear manufacturing textile industries use the innovative textile science and technology in the manufacturing of active sportswear fabrics to fulfil the requirements for athletics and leisure activities for their better performance in the sports. Advances in fibre science, yarn, fabric production technologies, and finishing techniques are the contributing factors for developing active sportswear fabrics and successful marketing of functional sportswear. Sportswear garments that perform or function for some purpose help active people to keep cool, comfortable and dry through moisture management and other techniques. In a normal situation, human beings restore a correct balance of heat exchange, modifying the environment. However, outdoor activities are more demanding in terms of thermal balance, and the ability of recovering the thermal balance is more difficult to achieve. For that reason, active sportswear should provide sufficient heat transfer for the skin temperature to remain within comfortable range [7,8]. 2. MARKET STATISTICS Changing lifestyles and growing emphasis on versatility, convenience, fashion, comfort, style, and performance is creating a strong demand for sports and fitness clothing, which offers both functional performance and style appeal. In terms of consumption growth and overall apparel market share, the segment is expected to generate the highest growth. Consumers are ready to pay more for performance characteristics that might facilitate them to gain considerable competitive advantage in their sports pursuit. Fabric characteristics such as temperature regulation, friction reduction, moisture management, stretch, lightness, and wind and water resistance are in popular demand [9]. According to the global market review of sportswear and footwear, the combined market grew from US$132.50bn to US$144.91bn, a rise of 9.4% between In the recovery phase from , the combined market for active sportswear and athletic footwear increased from US$142.13bn to US$153.52bn. The growth accelerated each year, rising to 3.6% in the Olympic year of 2012[10]. The United States athletic apparel market is the world's largest sportswear market, accounting for 41% of total sales, followed by the European Union, which accounts for about 38% of total sporting apparel turnover [11-12]. The total U.S. sales of activewear rose by 3.2% in 2011 compared with the previous period, to $48.6 billion. The UK sportswear market was worth 4.5bn, with sales of clothing making up the majority of 70

4 Özdil N., Anand S. Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2014 (3) the market (72%) compared with footwear (28%) in Today, the UK market is 4.8 billion and it is estimated that sales of sportswear will show continual growth and amount to 4.89bn by percent of Turkey s population is under 25 years old. Because of that the sportswear market in Turkey is rising rapidly. Sportwear market of the Turkey is US$ 65 million. In 2014, it is estimated that the worlds sports clothing and footwear market will be divided as follows: North America US$ 35,6bn; Western Europe US$ 43,1bn; Japan and Korea US$20,1; Rest of world US$ 67,7bn, with the total world market of US$ 166,55bn [1]. 3. THERMOPHYSIOLOGICAL COMFORT Comfort, which is defined as a pleasant state of psychological and physical harmony between a human being and environment, has become the most important feature along with the developments in textile technology [13]. This parameter entails four main considerations: psychological, sensorial, body movement and thermophysiological. Psychological comfort implies that individuals need specific garments, fabrics, colors and design features to help them feel confident. Where garments are worn during strenuous activity, psychological comfort also occurs when the garment is extensible and does not restrict mobility. Sensorial comfort deals with the mechanical sensations caused by textiles as it is in direct contact with the skin. Garments should be soft and pliable during wear and especially when damp, should not prickle/ irritate or cling to the body. To a lesser extent, sensorial comfort can be improved by the control of odour and by the use of UV resistant materials. Waterproofing can improve sensorial comfort but may impair thermophysiological comfort [1]. Body movement comfort is characterised by the fit of the clothing and the freedom of movement it allows. The garment's construction and the elasticity of the materials are the main aspects. Sportswear garments that perform or function for some purpose help active people to keep cool, comfortable and dry through moisture management and other techniques. In a normal situation, human beings restore a correct balance of heat exchange, modifying the environment. However, outdoor activities are more demanding in terms of thermal balance, and the ability of recovering the thermal balance is more difficult to achieve. For that reason, active sportswear should provide sufficient heat transfer so that the skin temperature remains within comfortable range [7]. The thermophysiological (thermal) comfort depends on thermal, moisture and air permeability properties [14]. This comprises heat and moisture transport processes through the clothing and directly influences a person s thermoregulation. Thermal interaction between man and environment is highly complex, because the person's perception of thermal comfort is affected by several parameters, such as air temperature, air movement (speed), humidity, clothing, activity level and many other factors. So, thermal comfort stands for the proper relationship between body heat production and loss [7]. It is expected from a garment to help to protect thermal balance of the body, and to maintain the body temperature and humidity. Garments work as a tampon to conserve body temperature of a human being in different atmospheric conditions [15]. The human body has an operating temperature of 37ºC, which it attempts to maintain under varying circumstances. During heavy activities the body produces lots of heat energy and the body temperature increases. Thus, it is necessary to transport heat from the body to the environment so as to maintain the body temperature at 37ºC. To reduce the high temperature, the body perspires a lot in liquid and vapour 71

5 Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2014 (3) Spor ve Aktif Giyimde Kullanılan Tekstil Malzeme ve Ürünlerinde. form. While this perspiration is transmitted to atmosphere, the body temperature reduces and then the body feels cool. Garments should be designed to maintain the human body temperature and moisture output close to its normal levels under diverse conditions. So the garments should allow the perspiration to pass through, otherwise it will result in discomfort. Therefore thermal properties and water vapour permeability of the fabrics are very important for body comfort [15]. The insulation properties of a fabric usually decline when the fabric is wet resulting in rapid heat loss from the wearer. This wetting can be both from outside a garment and from inside a garment. During strenuous activity wet fabric can aid in the cooling of hot skin surface. However, once the activity and the excessive heat production stop, this heat loss must be restricted. A wet body cools very quickly leading to post-exercise chill or, in extreme cases hypothermia. Garments that are designed for sportswear and active wear should be dynamic or responsive. Through effective thermoregulation and moisture management a clothing system can maximise heat loss when the wearer is hot, then increase thermal insulation when perspiration stops. In a sports arena dynamic or responsive garments can enhance performance, control weight build-up in clothing and reduce the potential for skin damage [16]. Another parameter important in achieving comfort is the warm cool feeling. When the human touches a garment that has a different temperature than the skin, heat exchange occurs between the hand and the fabric, and the warm cool feeling is the first sensation. Which feeling is better depends on the customer; for hot summer garments a cooler feeling is demanded, whereas in winter a warmer feeling is preferred. If the thermal absorptivity of clothing is low, it gives a warmer feeling at the first contact. The better feeling depends on customer: for instance in cold regions a warmer feeling is demanded, whereas in hot summer days a cooler clothing is preferred. Thermal absorptivity applies only for the short initial time of thermal contact between the skin and the fabric. For longer contact times exceeding a few seconds the heat flow q loses its dynamical (transient) character and its level falls to the steady-state level. In that case the parameter of thermal resistance takes an important role for thermal characteristics. Thermal resistance is an indication of how well a material insulates. Under a certain climate condition if the thermal resistance of clothing is less, the heat energy will gradually reduce with a sense of coolness. For textile materials, still air in the fabric structure is the most important factor for thermal conductivity and so for thermal resistance values, as still air has the lowest thermal conductivity value compared to all fibers (λ air = 0.025) [14,15,17]. In this part of the paper recent developments in fibres, yarns, fabrics and special finishing treatments used for sportswear in order to enhance performance and properties of sportswear will be discussed. 4. DEVELOPMENT IN FIBRES Due to the recent inventions in the design and production, today s new sports textiles use both synthetic and natural fibres. Natural fibres were previously considered unsuitable for high performance, synthetics were the top choise. However, natural fibers are now being combined with synthetics and are given sophiticated finishing treatments to improve their performance. Customers like this new group of techno-naturals or super naturals because of their familiar look and handle. The slow-to-dry and cold-when-wet characteristics of cotton make this material unsuitable fibre for use against the skin during strenuous activity. Cotton and polyamide blends have been used in sports clothing because they perform beter than cotton. Cotton can be blended with regenerated fibres Tencel A, for performance wear and sports to achive relatively less absorbent and faster drying garments [18]. 72

6 Özdil N., Anand S. Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2014 (3) Wool has good wicking ability, highest moisture regain and is a good insulator even when wet. However, wool is slow to dry. Superfine Merino wool has been found to possess superior water vapour permeability and quick drying properties. Merino wool can be blended with a range of other fibres, including silk, viscose, Tencel, polyester, polyamide. In addition a very fine merino wool can be used as an inner face of the fabric with an outer face of polyamide. Regenerated fibres, are derived from natural sources, and tend to be absorbent. Tencel is the registered trade name for a type of lyocell by Lenzing, made from wood pulp cellulose. It has a very high absorption capability, a unique nano-fibril structure and a very smooth surface. It is a soft but stronger fibre than cotton both wet and dry, that is resistant to wear and tear for clothing. As a result, all these physiological functions are much more pronounced for Tencel than for other cellulosic fibres. Viloft is an engineered viscose thermal fibre by Acordis. There is Viloft active, Viloft thermal, Viloft micro and Viloft spirit; the fabrics made from them have a natural look and soft feel and they manage moisture and temperature well [18]. The majority of thermal yarns are spun 50%-50 % blended fibre with polyester. Regenerated fibres blend well with other fibres, both natural and synthetic. They are very soft and comfortable making them a good choice for base layers in activewear. Synthetic fibres are frequently chosen for sportswear. Polyester has outstanding dimensional stability and offer excellent resistance to dirt, alkalis, and has a comfortable smooth feel. It is the fibre used most commonly in base fabrics for activewear because of its low moisture absorption, easy care properties and low cost. Polyester is essentially hydrophobic and does not absorb moisture. However, most polyester yarns used in base layer clothing are chemically treated so that they are able to wick moisture [1,19]. Fieldsensor by Toray Industries Inc. is made from a polyester filament yarn which has the grooves that help the fabric to absorb sweat quickly and disperse perspiration throughout the outer surface for rapid evaporation [20]. Coolmax by DuPont is manufactured in either tetra-channel or hexachannel polyester, which pulls or "wicks" moisture away from the skin to the outer layer of the fabric. This fibre grooved sections allow moisture to escape by capillary and increase wearer comfort and it therefore dries fast (Figure 1). Also it has good wicking properties and nonabsorbency [19]. Figure 1. Coolmax fibre (tetrachannel) cross section[21] ( Coolpass by Hengligroup, is an eternal high functional polyester fibre designed with slots conduct to siphon effect (Figure 2). It draws moisture away from the skin promptly, transfers it to the outer layers. It helps to regulate body temperature, keeping dry and comfortable [22]. 73

7 Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2014 (3) Spor ve Aktif Giyimde Kullanılan Tekstil Malzeme ve Ürünlerinde. Figure 2. Coolpass fibre ( Some textiles use hollow fibers that trap air and insulate the wearer efficiently. Fibres can be made ultralightweight with a hollow core construction that provides insulation by trapping air both inside and in between the fibres. They are used for both underwear and outerwear in a range of sports activities [18]. Welkey by Teijin is a polyester fibre, used in sportswear, with a hollow core and proliferation of smaller holes throughout the body of fibre thus increasing capillary action and the wicking of sweat away from the skin. The increased air spaces within the fibre also increase the thermal resistance of the fibre [1]. Thermolite by DuPont is a very fine hollow core fibre for use in the cold weather. The presence of air in the fibre core significantly improves the termal resistance of the fabric and also convoluted surface of the fibres and the increase in surface air generated by using a fine fibre improve the wicking capacity (Figure 3)[1]. Figure 3. Thermolite hollow fibre structure [23] ( Microfibres are ultra-lightweight and fine, making them both comfortable and highly functional. Innovations in technically advanced textiles for performance wear has led to very fine deniers, including high performance microfibres and ultra microfibres for second skin. The old attitude to synthetics was that they were uncomfortable during activity, but these new synthetics have transformed their reputation. They can be engineered to be antistatic, anti-stress, UV resistant, high stretch and thermo-isolating. The use of polyester microfibres has been wide spread in sportswear. If treated with a fluorocarbon, these fabrics have high resistance to water penetration whilst being permeable to moisture vapour. Trevira Finesse by Hoechst Celanese and Fortel MicroSpun by Fibre Industries are example of this fibres. Triactor by Toyoba Co Ltd, which is a perspiration absorbing/quick drying polyester filament. Quick perspiration absorbency by capillary action is supplied by Y shaped cross section of the filaments. The 74

8 Özdil N., Anand S. Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2014 (3) hydrophobic nature and large filament surface of polyester filaments realise quick drying and refreshing properties at the same time [19]. Polyamide fibres have many applications for sports textiles. Naylon 6 and Nylon 6.6 have higher moisture absorption capability than polyester, have better wicking ability but have a slower drying rate. Polyamide fibres are exceptionally strong fibres with high abrasion resistance, high flexibility and elasticity. When polyamide fibres are used in a tightly woven fabric they have very low air permeability making them an ideal light weight material for windbreaker jackets and for the outer shell of ski garments. However, the low moisture vapour permeability of such fabrics mean they can be uncomfortable when worn against the skin. Polyamide 6.6 is used as the basis for many microfibres. High-tech fibre engineering allows polyamide to take a variety of looks, handling qualities and performance properties, such as rapid wicking of perspiration. Polyamides can be treated by air texturing to give them a natural look and soft handle, quick drying and can result easy care garments. A blend of polyamide with elastane can result in a fabric that is comfortable and in a blend with Teflon one, that is water repellent and stain resistant. Tactel (DuPont) is a fabric made from fine nylon 6,6 filaments with trilobal cross-section which have been air jet textured giving a softer, more natural handle. The other polyamide microfibres such as Tactel Micro, Supplex Microfibre are polyamide based by DuPont, used in fabrics to produce superior wind protection, a soft feel and good moisture vapour transmission away from the skin and together with Lycra making it efficient for high energy sports [1,18]. Hyrofil by Allied Signal Inc. which is a polyamide co-block polymer containing 85 % nylon 6 and 15% polyethylene oxide diamine. This process significantly improves the water absorbency up to levels found in cellulosic fibres [1]. Merly Satine (registered trademark by Nylstar) is a special yarn made from ultrafine polyamide which has soft handle, good abrasion resistance, lower pilling tendency. Generally it is used for clothes from extreme sports to casual wear. Meryl Microfibre is a kind of polyamide fibre that can be used for fine, closely woven or knitted fabrics that are suitable for lightweight garments next to skin, especially for sports base layers. Merly Nexten is a hollow polyamide fibre offers high insulation. It can be used natural fibres for both base layer and outer layer sports clothing especially skiwear [24]. Polypropylene fibres are increasingly being used in sportswear market although its market share is still small. The fibres have very low moisture absorbency but excellent moisture vapour permeability and wicking capabilities. Polypropylene has the advantage of providing insulation when wet. Insensible and liquid perspiration are transported away from the skin without being absorbed making it an ideal fibre for sporswear. Polypropylene is claimed to be a proved performer in moisture management due to its hydrophobic nature and has very good thermal characteristics, keeping the wearer warm in cold weather and cold in warm weather [ 1,19]. Dryarn is the new fibre from Aquafil. It is a completely recyclable polypropylene microfibre. Fabrics from Dryarn are very lightweight and comfortable and used in different sports. In addition, it has a soft handle and a high thermoregulatory capacity and also dries quickly. Bacteria cannot settle on smooth surface of the fibre which avoids unpleasant odour associated with decomposition of bacteria [ 19]. The strech property is vital in all sports clothing and many of the latest fabrics are ultra fine, lightweight and capable of extreme stretch in every direction. Elastomeric fibres such as spandex (in particular 75

9 Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2014 (3) Spor ve Aktif Giyimde Kullanılan Tekstil Malzeme ve Ürünlerinde. DuPont s Lycra) are generally used in small quantities in a garment to significantly increase stretch and recovery. Some super elastics can stretch up to 500 per cent and possess very good shape retention. Aramid is a particular type of polyamide that is very strong and capable of withstanding extremely cold temperatures. Aramid microfilaments are being developed where research has produced very strong and lightweight aramid microfibres that are used their protective and performance capabilities. Chlorofiber is a generic name indicating that more than 50 percent of the textile s make up PVC. The chlorofibre content helps the textile to retain its shape and enables it when crushed to return quickly to its original state. These fibres are generally blended with other yarns such as cotton, silk, wool, acrylic to produce a functional textile. These chlorofibre based fabrics have significant advantages for those who take part in higly active and energetic sports. French company Rhovyl has used PVC based chlorofibre Rhovyl Up for such sports as skiing and mountain climbing. Its capillary action wicks sweat away fast, helping to maintain a constant body temperature [18]. Blending of different fibres is capable of offering the best properties of each. Bicomponent knits such as polyester/wool or polypropylene/wool blends provide wicking and insulation properties in a single layer. Sportswool, a trade mark of The Woolmark Company, is an example of a fabric which has been engineered to manage moisture. It is a hybrid material composed of a fine Merino wool sub-layer for insulation and a polyester exterior which draws moisture away from the wool layer to the outer surface. The wool fibre next to the skin attracts perspiration vapour molecules, before they have the chance to condense into liquid, and disperses them into the atmosphere. The fabric has attracted the attention of top Australian athletes and the Manchester United soccer team. Its major drawback, however, is that it takes longer to dry because of its wool content [19]. The Marino wool content is normally limited to 25% and the other 75 % of the garment is Coolmax polyester yarn. Hygra by Unitika Limited which is a sheath core type filament yarn composed of fibre made from waterabsorbing polymer and nylon. The water-absorbing polymer has a special structure that absorbs 35 times its own weight of water and offers quick releasing properties. On the other hand, nylon in the core gives tensile strength and dimensional stability. Hygra also has superior antistatic properties even under low wet conditions. The main apparel applications include sportswear like athletic wear, skiwear, golf wear etc. Killat N from Kanebo Ltd is a nylon hollow filament. The hollow portion is about 33 per cent of the cross-section of each filament due to which it gives good water absorbency and warmth retention property. The yarn is spun as bicomponent filament yarn with soluble polyester copolymer as the core portion and nylon as the skin portion. Then by giving alkali weight loss treatment, the soluble polyester copolymer of the bicomponent filament dissolve and a large hollow portion is created [19]. Dri-release is a wicking performance yarn developed by US-based Optimer. This product is an intimate blend of 85-90% hydrophobic low moisture-absorbing staple-fibre, such as polyester and 10-15% hydrophilic wicking staple fibre such as cotton. The natural fibres absorb moisture pulling it off the skin and into the fabric. Synthetic fibres repel moisture, forcing it through to the surface of the garment where it evaporates quickly as airflow moves across the fabric. Dri-release is incorporated in athletic wear, socks and underwear [19,25]. "Phase Change" materials (PCM) are being developed for sportswear. These materials contain a chemical that changes from being a liquid to a gel at around body temperature. This alters the fabric's 76

10 Özdil N., Anand S. Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2014 (3) insulation properties so that clothes can be designed that keep the body at a constant temperature no matter what happens to the air temperature. Phase change technology uses materials that respond to both body and environmental temperatures, for example paraffin wax. This can be added in the form of a microthermal membrane, using by microcapsulating technology, contains the PCM with in an acrylic shell. Alternatively, a garment lining can be given a PCM film with a plastic coating. Heat energy is stored by PCM, as the temperature drops the materials becomes solid, and gradually releases the stored heat [ 2,18]. Scholler- ComforTemp (by Schoeller and ComforTemp is a registered trademark of Frisby Technologies, USA) is based on phase-change technology. This high tech fabric has microcapsules that trap parafin wax to regulate body temperature [18]. Outlast is a phase change material developed for NASA by Triangle Research and development Corporation. Microencapsulated phase change thermocules are embedded in an acrylic compound binder shell to interact with the body and prevent excessive temperature variations. They absorb, store and release heat as they change from a solid to liquid and vice versa [26]. Shape memory polymer material can remember and retain its shape or return to a previous form. A garment made from these shape memory polymers is able to sense changes in the surroundings environment; and can evaluate intelligently and control its response to ensure the highest level of comfort. This polymer is also unique as the temperature at which micro-brownian motion begins can be freely specified. This means that the activation point can be set to match the environmental conditions in which a garment is likely to be worn. Carbon fibre is a fibre whose desirable properties include its resistance to corrosion, fire and high tensile strength as well as its chemical inertness. With the decrease in its cost over recent years, it is fast becoming one of the leading materials in many areas, including performance sport equipment and garments. The use of carbon fibre as the main structural material in the sport such as various varieties of motor sport, in the construction of road cars, high performance sports equipment, thermal comfort of garments, diving suits, ski wear and active sportswear. Its thermal insulating properties, high tensile strength and less weight makes it popular for making sportswear as it prevents the wearer from fatal consequences [2]. 5. DEVELOPMENTS IN YARNS Fabrics made from staple-fibre yarns are more absorbent than the fabrics made from filament yarns of the same content and yarn size, due to the looser packing of the yarn. A looser packing in the yarn increases the fibre surface area for absorption and by increasing the gaps between the yarns, increases moisture vapour permeability. Staple- fibre yarns also provide better thermal insulation due to the increased volume of air contained in the yarn. They may also improve the sensorial comfort through a warmer feeling to the touch; the yarns have slightly lower areas of contact to the skin. Crimping of synthetic yarns can improve their water vapour permeability by increasing the bulk of the fibres in yarns and yarns in fabrics, thus improving their thermophysiological comfort. However, staplefibre yarns do not shed soil as well as filament yarns and they have a greater tendency to pill or shed lint. Filament yarns are used in windbreaker jackets and in the shell and lining of skiwear where a combination of dense weave and low surface coefficient of friction are desirable [1]. 77

11 Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2014 (3) Spor ve Aktif Giyimde Kullanılan Tekstil Malzeme ve Ürünlerinde. 6. DEVELOPMENTS IN FABRIC STRUCTURES Knitted fabrics are preferred for sportswear, as these fabrics have greater elasticity and stretchability as compared to woven fabrics, which provide unrestricted freedom of movement and transmission of body vapours to the next textile layer in the clothing system [2]. For warmth and comfort in adverse conditions, textile fabrics may be brushed, bonded, padded, quilted or wadded to give lightweight volume with little excess bulk. The fabric structure is an important factor in the design of sportswear garments. The study on the effect of warp knitted structure on thermophysiological comfort properties showed that most open construction 3D Eyelet provided the best moisture vapour permeability, but poor thermal insulation. Micromesh structure which has much smaller openings or holes than 3D Eyelet, but is relatively more open than the Pique and Mock Rib structures, yielded the most favourable combination of comfort properties [1]. Dense pile fabrics play a big part in sports clothing and cloths with a high pile traps air for insulation and is very absorbent. Brushed surfaces are often used as an inner lining where the wearer feels comfortable, as the brushed surface against the skin does not cling to the skin surface. Padding of fabrics is primarily for insulation. Polyester wadding or synthetic foam is sandwiched between fabrics. Some wadding is made from synthetic microfibres making it waterproof and breathable. Knitted fabrics with a foam backing can be very soft, and when blended with elatane have good stretch and recovery characteristics, making them suitable for high action sports. Technical knitted fabrics that are moisture wicking tend to be more open in structure on the back than on the face. In such open structures, moisture from perspiration passes more quickly through. Examples of this include Aertex, a traditional sports fabric which is widely used [18]. Toray Industries Inc. developed a series of waterproof/breathable fabrics. The Entrant fabrics series is intended for active wear, and there are many variations that used advanced finishes. Entrant Dermizax- EV has a water-repellent membrane with improved moisture permeability, making it especially suitable for snowsports and climbing (Figure 4). Entrant-DT is a microporous coated fabric is lightweight, waterproof and breathable. It is soft, with a dry smooth texture, intended for cycling, running and hiking. Entrant GII-XT is a microporous coated fabric which is made of two polyurethane resin components which produce a pumped-up effect and rapidly wick away sweat. It is wind, rain and snowproof, suitable for many outdoor winter sports. 78

12 Özdil N., Anand S. Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2014 (3) Figure 4. Entrant Dermizax fabric [27] Multi-layer fabrics, produced by using warp and weft knitting technologies, became common for active sportswear. The performance of layered fabrics in thermophysiological regulation is better than single layer textile structure. Each layer has a distinct function to perform; the layer next to the skin is to wick away the perspiration rapidly to the outer layer, which absorbs and dissipates it rapidly to the atmosphere by evaporation. In doing so, it takes away some of the body heat and keeps the body cool. On the inside, a synthetic material with good moisture transfer properties and good capillary action e.g. polyester, nylon, acrylic or polypropylene is used, whereas on the outside, a material which is a good absorber of moisture, e.g. cotton, wool, viscose rayon or their blends can be placed (Figure 5). Dryline by Miliken is a two layer fabric with a polyester inner layer and polyamide outer layer and is most commonly used to line waterproof or breathable outerwear [1,2]. Figure 5. Two-layer fabric structure for active sportswear Alternative two-layer fabrics is Tactel Aquator by DuPont, in which the inner layer is made from Tactel fibres and the outer layer is made from fine filament Tactel. DriClime by Marmot is a bicomponent tricot knitted fabric made from two 100 % polyester yarns. The inner layer has a brushed surface and is made from large diameter yarns. The outer layer is made from thin staple-fibre yarns with increased capillary action which act to pull moisture through the fabric. A more complex 3x1 weft knitted fleece fabric comprising a staple-fibre polypropylene fleece yarn, a coolmax polyester tie-in yarn and a cotton ground or face yarn has been designed at the University of Bolton as an ideal multi-layer fabric for use in activewear and sportswear [1]. Figure 6. Three layer fabric structure for active sportswear 79

13 Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2014 (3) Spor ve Aktif Giyimde Kullanılan Tekstil Malzeme ve Ürünlerinde. Three-layer structure is an another way of constructing a physiologically functional fabrics (Figure 6). The use of superfine or microfibre yarn enables production of dense fabrics leading to more effective capillary action, with better thermo-physiological regulation. 7. SPECIAL FINISHES APPLIED DURING FINISHING Finishes can transform textiles and give them a whole array of sports applications. The latest finishes give textiles a new aesthetic, a good to wear experience and superior performance. A fabric could not be weatherproof and breathable before, but sophisticated membrane technology in the form of new coatings and laminates have altered this. Both visible and invisible coatings make it possible for a fabric to carry sweat away and for air to circulate around the body. Ultra fine and super light treatments make the textiles rain, wind and fireproof and also being breathable. An ultra fine treatment on the face of the fabric does not hide the underlying textile, and appearance, texture and drape are less affected. Generally there are two methods of creating breathable, waterproof textiles; a) by using either microporous or; b)hydrophilic technologies. The first work by means of very fine holes in the membrane that allow perspiration to escape as water vapour and move quickly from inside to outside but completely block the passage of water. The second attracts water molecules and allows warmer water vapour to move through the membrane to the cooler temperature outside the garment [18]. Microfibre fabrics are also given advanced finishing treatments to create waterproof, breathable textiles. Silicone coating offers water repellent and flexible finish to the fabric. Silicone can be used either on the fibre or on the fabric. When silicone is used in concentrated form, coatings are abrasion resistant and water repellent and very useful for outdoor activities. A very fine coating creates a fabric which can be washed or drycleaned and the coating is often permanent. Fabrics with a silicone finish tend to keep their shape after repeated washing; they are also non-shrink as well as being crease resistant [18]. Moisture management treatment promotes rapid wicking and evaporation and provides high added value to sportswear and casualwear, significantly enhancing the perceived comfort level of the wearer [28]. Several moisture management finishes have been used to increase moisture absorbency; the fabric is durable to repeated home laundering and improves wetting and wicking action. For example, Resil HJHP is used particularly for increasing moisture absorbency of polyester fabrics and when combined with resil Nanocelle G6, can improve the wicking properties of fabrics of all types [29]. A novel moisture management agent, Ultraphil HCT, is based on a silicone microemulsion, that imparts hydrophilicity and a very soft handle to cotton, while the quaternary chemical nature of the structure results in very high durability to washing. A new hydrophilic finish, Sandoperm RPU Liquid is a new thermo-reactive polyurethane for fast drying, very full and extremely soft handle on cellulosic and polyamide fibres. Applied with silicone softeners, Sandoperm RPU Liquid produces a hydrophilic finish, improving the elasticity/shape recovery of knitted goods. The Nano-Dry finish from Nano-Tex LLC is a durable, hydrophilic finish for nylon and polyester. In the latter fibre, polyethylene glycol and amino silicone in nano-form are claimed to be applied to sportswear and underwear requiring perspiration absorbency [28]. Some resin finishes on synthetic substrates can provide a protective barrier for wet weather and winter sports. Another material used for coating is Teflon. It has a very low surface fiction which is useful in 80

14 Özdil N., Anand S. Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2014 (3) sports clothing. Treating a textile with Teflon gives a technical look and tactile quality while providing protection from showers and stains, and particularly useful for wet weather sports. Microencapsulation technology has developed fabrics with a variety of health giving and well being sunstances contained bubbles suspended along their fibers. As the textile creases when worn the bubbles break and gradually release their contents into the skin of the wearer. These fibres are now being used for sports cloths [18]. As some lifestyles have become more active, sportswear, activewear and casualwear may become more easily contaminated by perspiration leading to bacterial growth and body odours. Antimicrobial fabrics guard against disease by repelling and fighting bacteria, not destroying them totally, since they play an important role for our bodies. Antibacterials can also prevent body odours. Antibacterial textiles are used next to skin active sportswear, for multifunctional clothing, for underwear and also tend to be used for socks and liners for athletic footwear. Using microtechnology, an antibacterial agent is added at the yarn construction stage or as a finishing treatment. These can be blended well with natural, regenerated and synthetic fibres, often at low percentages, which enable the main fibre to retain its look and texture. A very important consideration for anti-microbial finishes applied to apparel fabrics is that such treated fabrics and garments are safe to handle and use [18,28]. Microfibres can be impregnated with antibacterial agents. Amicor is the trade name of antimicrobial fibres by Acordis. They keep clothes smelling fresh for longer by preventing the growth of bacteria when the body sweats. The special acrylic fibres are constructed with a core that emits the antibacterial agent Triclosan when required long washing lasting. Base layer of Amicor blended with polyester produces specialist wear for activities such as mountaineering and skiing [18]. 8. CONCLUSIONS The importance of the sports and activewear has been increasing all over the world. The worldwide sales of these products have been growing every year. Comfort, design and easy care are the main expectations from sportswear cloths. But garments worn in sporting activities have different properties and performances attributes according to the activity carried out. The required functions of sportswear fabrics differ in different situations such as type of sport, environmental conditions and level of activity. The latest sports textile materials are much more functional for fulfilling specific needs in different sporting activities. In this paper the recent developments in textile materials and products used for activewear and sportswear have been discussed. Advances in fibre science, yarn and fabric production technologies and finishing techniques will contribute to the future developments in textiles used for active sportswear. 9. REFERENCES 1. Anand S.C., 2013, Recent Advances in Textile Materials and Products for Activewear and Sportswear, Plenary Lecture, National Textile University, Faisalabad, Pakistan, Covitex13, 18 th March Uttam D., 2013, Active Sportswear Fabrics, International Journal of IT, Engineering and Applied Sciences Research (IJIEASR) ISSN: Volume 2, No. 1, Ishtiaque, S. M., 2001, Engineering Comfort, Asian Textile Journal, November,

15 Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2014 (3) Spor ve Aktif Giyimde Kullanılan Tekstil Malzeme ve Ürünlerinde. 4. Kothari, V. K. & Sanyal, P., 2003, Fibres and Fabrics for Active Sportswear, Asian Textile Journal, Çeken, F., 2004, Certain Physical Properties of Knitted Structures Used for Active Sportswear, Melliand International, 10, Ishtiaque, S. M., 2000, Engineering Comfort, Proceedings on Smart Textiles, Their Production and Market Strategies, Ed.: S. Gupta, NIFT, New Delhi,India, pp Abreu M. J., Catarıno A., Cardoso C., Martın E.,2011, Effects of Sportswear Design on Thermal Comfort, AUTEX 2011 Conference, Mulhouse France, 8 10th June recession_id aspx Önder E., Sarier N., 2004, Improving Thermal Regulation Functions of Textiles, 4 th AUTEX Conference, Roubaix, France, June Oglakcioglu N., Marmarali, 2010, A Thermal Comfort Properties of Cotton Knitted Fabrics in Dry And Wet States, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 3, Özdil N., Marmaralı A., Kretzschmar Dönmez S., 2007, Effect of Yarn Properties on Thermal Comfort of Knitted Fabrics, International Journal of Thermal Sciences, 46 (12), Comfort properties of bi-layer knitted fabrics 17. Supuren G., Oglakcioglu N., Ozdil N. and Marmarali A., 2011, Moisture Management and Thermal Absorptivity Properties of Double-face Knitted Fabrics, Textile Research Journal, 81(13) O Mahony M., Braddock E. S., 2002, Sportstech Revotionary Fabrics, Fashion and Design. 19. S. Chaudhari, R. Chitnis, R. Ramkrishnan. Waterproof breathable active sportswear fabrics. [Online]. Available: Blaga M., Marmaralı A., Mihai A., 2009, High Comfort Knitted Fabrics For Linings of Orthopaedics, Footwear, The 6th International Conference Management of Technological Changes, Greece, 3-5 September Sporting solutions to sweat, Materials World, Volume 16, Number 6, Holme, I., 2007, Innovative Technologies for High-performance Textiles, Coloration Technology, 123,

16 Özdil N., Anand S. Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2014 (3) Manickam, M., 2006, Moisture Management Its Conquering Techniques, Colourage, 53,