How To Grow Long, Healthy Natural Hair

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1 Hw T Grw Lng, Healthy Natural Hair A Quick Guide

2 Abut The Authr Heather Katsnga-Wdward is the funder f She creates hair care prducts and blgs abut kinky and curly hair. She grew frm zer t ver 300,000 Facebk fans & 30,000 subscribers in abut 18 mnths. Her gal is t help yu enjy managing yur hair whatever yur hair gals are. In 2014 she launched a prgram n Hw T Build A 6-Figure Beauty Business called The Mney Spt. Previusly, Heather was an investment banker at Gldman Sachs and HSBC. She resigned frm the banking industry in 2012 t pursue her business interests full-time and t enjy a mre flexible lifestyle. Heather lives in Lndn with her husband, Harry. She maintains a hair & life vlg at check it ut t meet her and her family. 2

3 Hw T Build A 6-Figure Business If yu want t enjy a mre flexible life by Building a 6-Figure Business g t: 3

4 Key Resurces Fr Yu has lts f free resurces fr fun & educatin: Use the search bar t search fr specific tpics Hair & life vlg with my husband, Harry Kinky-Curly hair prfiles frm fellw naturals DIY Recipes fr mixtresses 4

5 The Hair Rule Since I started managing natural hair in early 2011 I have learnt that there is nly ne rule: Yu are the QUEEN f YOUR KINKS, CURLS & COILS Any tips yu hear frm anybdy are suggestive; yu can try them, but if they dn t wrk fr yu, ditch them! 5

6 Table f Cntents Intrductin...7 Hair Types...8 Grwth Ptential...9 Maximum Hair Grwth Detangling Wash & Cnditin Chemicals t Avid Misturizing Dry Hair Stimulating Grwth Heat and Yur Hair Nutritin Cmbing and Handling Sleeping Hair Styles fr Length Braiding Weather Frizz Cntrl Trimming Building A Regimen Prducts Nen Natural s Hair Grwth Stimulatr Nw available n Amazn! 6

7 Intrductin (Hair Grwth) In March 2011 I encuntered severe hair breakage fr n apparent reasn. I gt scared, stpped relaxing my hair and decided t transitin t natural hair. 18 mnths later, I culd tie my hair all in ne place and imprtantly, it lked healthy. Here, I share everything I learnt abut grwing lng, healthy hair. 18 mnths natural 7

8 Hair Types Natural hair cmes in fur main "types : 1, 2, 3 and 4. Type 1 is cmpletely straight hair. It desn t have any subsets. Mst black peple have type 4 hair. This can be further brken dwn int: 4a, 4b, 4c. Sme have mre lsely curled 3C hair. The type in itself des nt matter. What des matter is the impact f type n hw the hair shuld be handled. All type 4 hair is very curly/kinky but type 4C is the mst kinky and mst vulnerable t breakage. 8

9 Grwth Ptential If yu have very kinky hair, treat it with great care and reverence. Kinky, curly and cily hair is a little mre prne t breakage than straight hair because the bnds in hair are slightly weaker at the bend pints. Any harsh treatment r harsh chemicals will lead t breakage and will result in less retentin f hair length. On average, hair grws a maximum f 0.5 inches per mnth. Yu can expect 3 t 5 inches f grwth per year (after trimming). 9

10 Maximum Hair Grwth Hair des nt grw frever. On average the grwth cycle is 4 t 7 years. This limit is set by genetics and cannt be changed. The grwth cycle can be as shrt as 1 year and as lng as 10 years! If yur grwth rate is 4 inches/year and yur genetic limit is 5 years the maximum yu can achieve is 20 inches f hair (befre trims). If yu have fast hair grwth f 6 inches/year but yur cycle is nly ne year, yur hair will nt grw beynd 6 inches. A little less with trims t keep the ends neat. Almst 3 years natural 10


12 Detangling Detangling is the ne crucial stage f natural hair management that des nt exist when yu have relaxed hair. TIP 1: Only detangle mist hair Very dry and very wet hair is mre likely t break. TIP 2: Plasticize hair befre yu detangle it Plasticizing hair is sftening it using a bit f water and a detangler. If yu dn t have a detangler use a rinse-ff cnditiner if yu are abut t wash yur hair r a misturizer if yu are just styling yur hair. TIP 3: Finger detangle first Fingers are much mre adept at detangling than cmbs. TIP 4: Only use wide-tth cmbs They are much gentler n hair. Nen Natural s Wide Tth Cmbs Nw available n Amazn! 12

13 Why Detangle? Well-detangled hair is : Less likely t break when yu re washing and cnditining Less likely t break when yu are styling and handling it Easier t cmb and style Smarter Vide: Hw T Detangle & Prevent Tangling f Natural Hair 13


15 Wash & Cnditin TIP 5: One shamp a week is mre than adequate Kinky & curly hair is very vulnerable t dryness. This means that it des nt need t be washed as ften as ther types f hair. Excessive washing will draw ut misture and increase breakage. TIP 6: Use a gentle, sulfate-free shamp Mst shamps use sulfates as the cleaning agent r surfactant. Sulfates are s cmmnly used because they are a lt cheaper than ther surfactants and they are effective n greasy hair types the majrity f buying cnsumers have greasy hair. Hwever, fr kinky/curly hair, sulfates are t effective a cleaning agent; they wash ut the gd ils t leaving ur hair t dry. If yu exercise heavily and feel like yu need a mre regular wash, add an extra wash r tw per week using cnditiner nly rather than shamp (i.e. c-wash). 15

16 Wash & Cnditin Frequency TIP 7: C-Wash if yu need a mre regular wash Yu knw that squeaky clean feel yu get when yu ve shamped yur hair? That is what yu are trying t avid. Squeaky clean means yu've stripped the hair f a lt f misture and natural ils. Washing hair with cnditiner (c-washing) des nt strip hair as much as shamp des and is therefre less damaging. If yu sweat a little bit nly, it desn't necessarily mean that yur hair needs a wash. I wuld say mre than three washes a week is excessive but sme peple cwash daily and dn t find it detrimental. A weekly shamp is imprtant because sme ingredients in cnditiner, e.g. sme silicnes, are designed t be washed ff with shamp. Silicnes have many benefits fr hair s rather than avid them all learn abut which nes are best fr yur hair type and regimen. If yu haven t already, check ut this article n my blg: What Are The Best Silicnes Fr Peple On A C-Wash Regimen? 16

17 Washing Hair & Length TIP 8: The lnger yur hair gets the less ften yu shuld be washing it Shrt hair is mre welcming (and frgiving) f regular washes. Lng hair has a higher tendency t get tangled and the detangling prcess is an pprtunity fr breakage. Lng hair als takes lnger t get greasy; Sebum prduced in the scalp finds it difficult t travel alng ur kinks, curls and cils t the tip f hair even mre s when that hair is lng. Tangling is apparently als a big prblem fr sme peple with very lng, straight hair. The lnger yur hair is, therefre, the mre dry yur ends will tend t be. Hair ends are, by nature, the ldest sectin f hair s they have ver time been erded away thrugh styling and washes; they are naturally drier than rts and need mre misture. 17

18 Wash & G TIP 9: Wash & gs wrk best n Shrt hair Very lsely curled hair When yu try t Wash & G 4C/4B hair lnger than shulder length yu culd be in tears the next day! The tangling and matting is indescribable! The shrinkage is exhausting Untangling the mess takes a heck f a lt f time (at least fr me) and yu will get much mre breakage than yu nrmally d during a wash. Sme 4A naturals als cut ut Wash & Gs after a certain length. 18


20 Chemicals t Avid TIP 10: Read prduct labels; knw which chemicals t avid The prducts that yu use n yur hair matter. Certain chemicals dry hair ut, make it mre likely t break, clg up pres r simply d mre harm than gd t yur hair. Ensure that prducts yu use d nt cntain any f the fllwing: Gluten PABA r DEA (paraaminbenzic acid and Diethanlamine) Parabens Paraffin Petrlatum and mineral ils Phthalates Prpylene Glycl Sulfates: sdium r ammnium laureth r lauryl sulfate (SLS/ALS) Nte: silicnes used t be n the list but have been remved. I explain the gd vs. the bad silicnes in a series f blgs: 20

21 Chemicals t Avid TIP 11: The lwer n the ingredients list a chemical is, the lwer its cncentratin is within the prduct Because petrlatum is very cheap, a lt f hair prducts targeted twards black cnsumers have traditinally cntained a lt f petrlatum (e.g. Blue Magic, Sulfur 8 etc.) Petrlatum cats hair in a heavy film that makes subsequent effrts t misturize yur hair futile; petrlatum is als hard t wash ff with a gentle, sulfate-free shamp. The higher a chemical is n a bttle s ingredients list, the mre f it there is relative t chemicals listed lwer dwn. Accrding t The Science f Black Hair by Audrey Davis-Sivasthy, as a rule f thumb, if yu see petrlatum r any ther undesirable chemical listed sixth r lwer there isn t much f it in there. Fr instance, Cantu Shea butter has petrlatum listed as the 7 th /8 th ingredient and I find it still wrks well fr misturizing my hair. 21

22 Chemicals t Avid TIP 12: Where pssible g fr prducts made by natural hair cmpanies In 2013 the likes f Dark & Lvely and Dr Miracles jumped nt the natural hair pprtunity. I tried these prducts and a few thers made by ppular, lngstanding brands and was left very disappinted. In my pinin they ve dne very little t change their relaxed hair prducts; they ve mstly rebranded the utside, the inside is still mre r less the same. Cmpanies that specialize in natural hair have grwn frm the desire t tackle the specific needs f natural hair especially: Dryness, lack f misture and curl definitin. Yu are a lt mre likely t be satisfied when buying prducts frm a natural hair cmpany. My latest recmmendatins based n feedback are regularly updated at 22

23 Chemicals t Avid TIP 13: Dn t fall fr prducts marketing gimmicks Read the label. Yu will find that sme prducts that are marketed as being natural cntain sme f these harsh chemicals s it's always best t check befre paying. I regretted paying A LOT f mney fr sme Mixed Chicks prducts nly t find that a cuple f them cntain t much f the mustavid ingredients! And imprtantly, they didn t wrk well n my hair. Caveat emptr ~ buyer beware! 23


25 Misturizing Dry Hair: Water TIP 14: Spritz with water regularly Kinky/curly hair is very vulnerable t dryness; It can lse a lt f misture even ver the curse f ne day. The number ne misturizer fr ur hair is water! Water will sften hair and keep it hydrated s that it's less prne t breakage and mre likely t retain length. Spritz yur hair using a spray bttle at least twice daily: in the mrning and in the evening. Spray bttles 25

26 Misturizing Dry Hair: Spritz TIP 15: Spraying yur hair with water regularly cannt replace yur weekly wash Spraying water int yur hair helps t hydrate it fr the day r night but after 7 t 10 days yu shuld give it a prper detangle, wash and cnditin. When yu drench yur hair fully in water any bits yu miss when yu spritz will als get hydrated. I realized that whenever I spritzed my hair the edges were a little neglected. That desn t happen when I wash my hair prperly. Spray bttles 26

27 Misturizing Hair: Deep Cnditin TIP 16: Deep cnditin weekly Is yur cnditiner actually a deep cnditiner? There are 5 main types f cnditiner: Instant cnditiners designed fr daily use, surface-acting nly; Cream-rinse cnditiners gd fr detangling and heat prtectin; Deep cnditiners bst misture, prtein, sftness and strengthen hair; Misturizing cnditiners reduce frizz, bst misture and hair elasticity; Prtein cnditiners - Temprarily rebuild damage alng the hair's cuticle. 15 mnths natural Deep cnditining 27

28 Misturizing Dry Hair TIP 17: D NOT deep cnditin mre than nce a week Given the benefits f deep cnditining yu d be frgiven fr thinking that the mre yu d it, the better, right? uh-uh, it desn t wrk like that. If yu deep cnditin t regularly yu might incur breakage frm excessive misture. If yu want t wash yur hair 15 mnths natural mre ften, get an instant r cream-rinse cnditiner t be used in between deep cnditins. If it says suitable fr daily use r smething alng thse lines, it s mild and kay fr mre regular use; it is nt a deep cnditiner. Deep cnditining 28

29 Misturizing Dry Hair: ph TIP 18: Use a shamp and cnditiner within the same prduct line r test the ph f yur chsen shamp and cnditiner t ensure they cmplement each ther Cnditiner is meant t be mre acidic than shamp. The lwer ph f the final prduct used in the cleaning prcess (typically the cnditiner) helps t seal ff the hair; Sealing the hair means hair cuticles are smthed dwn and misture is held in better. A shamp and cnditiner within the same prduct line will be develped with this feature in mind. Fr example, The shamp f ne brand may have a ph f 4.5 and the cnditiner 3.5 s that yur hair is prperly sealed ff. But if yu then g and use a cnditiner f anther brand whse ph is 5.0, this sealing ff prcess wn't happen prperly. 29

30 The Best Vegetable Oils TIP 19: Use pure, natural ils and butters n yur hair In additin t water the fllwing natural ils and butters are dcumented as having great benefits fr hair: Avcad il Castr il Ccnut il r butter Grapeseed il Jjba il Olive il Shea butter Sunflwer il Sweet almnd il Oils lck in misture, they themselves are NOT misturizers. 30

31 Misturizing: LOC vs. LCO TIP 20: Apply misturizer t yur hair befre any il Jjba il Oil is nt a misturizer. Oil and water d nt mix, s il, if used at all, needs t be applied last s that it lcks-in misture and stps it frm escaping. Oil is fantastic at lcking-in misture. Tw cmmn misturizing methds: In the LOC methd, a Liquid misturizer is applied first, then Oil, then a Creamy misturizer. In the LCO methd, a Liquid misturizer is applied first, then a Creamy misturizer, then Oil. 31

32 Misturizing Dry Hair TIP 21: A gd, misturizing cream can keep yur hair sft fr 4 t 5 days withut re-applicatin if yu just add water If yu twist dry hair using a cream, when yu untwist the plaits all yu need t d is spritz yur hair and fluff it ut t reactivate the cream. In this vide I shw yu myself hw I have dne this. My hair is mstly 4c with a little 4B at the back; Althugh the stretched hair shrunk ver the 5 day perid, a quick spritz with water was all it tk t get it very sft and easy t manage n each day. 32

33 Warm Wash, Cld Rinse TIP 22: Finish every wash ff with a cld rinse Washing yur hair with warm water helps t disldge dirt and il. Warm water als increases the hair's prsity i.e. the cuticles pen up s that all the gd stuff frm yur shamp and cnditiner is easily absrbed. Rinsing yur hair in cld water at the end f the washing prcess will help t flatten the cuticle and lckin misture. I als d this when I wash my face. It helped t clear up my acne. S, wash with warm water and rinse yur final cnditiner ff with cld water (nt freezing cld water, just very cl). 33


35 Stimulating Hair Grwth TIP 23: Use essential ils t maximize hair grwth In additin, sme essential ils are well knwn fr cleansing hair, prmting hair grwth and helping t maintain a healthy lk. The mst ppular and mst well dcumented are: Cedarwd Lavender Rsemary Thyme Ylang Ylang 35

36 Stimulating Hair Grwth Nen Natural's Hair Grwth Stimulatr includes fur f the best essential ils: Rsemary Lavender Thyme Cedarwd If yu make yur wn il blends, use essential ils with care. Yu dn t need a lt - they are very ptent; a few drps is plenty. Nen Natural s Hair Grwth Stimulatr can be applied directly t hair, used as a cnditiner r fr ht il treatment. 36


38 Heat and Yur Hair TIP 24: Use heat cautiusly Heat frequently dries ut and damages hair - that's a well knwn fact; Many peple in the natural hair cmmunity apply heat t their hair with extreme cautin; The nes that I fllw mst fervently (i.e. thse with the healthiest and/r lngest hair) claim t almst never use heat. When I started ut, I didn't knw heat was bad ; I used t blw dry my hair weekly, after my wash and cnditin rutine but I stpped ding s and I m fine withut it nw. I nly blw when I am braiding my hair, at the mment that s abut fur times a year. 38

39 Ging Heat Free TIP 25: Cnsider cutting ut dryers and straighteners frm yur hair cmpletely t start ff with As I was nursing my hair frm extreme breakage, I decided t cmpletely stp using heat. Frm abut July 2011 t January 2013, I applied heat nly nce n my wedding day, 11/11/11. Blw drying is nt necessary: yur hair will dry well and with a great curl pattern if yu simply plait r twist it using a gd misturizer and il after yu've cnditined it. Hair straighteners are even less necessary: yu can flat irn yur hair as a treat nce r twice a year but any mre ften than that will increase breakage. 39

40 Heat Safety Tips TIP 26: If yu must apply heat d it in the safest way pssible: 1. Wash and deep cnditin hair n earlier than the day befre yu blw dry. Ideally just prir t the blw dry. Dn t blw dry dirty hair. 2. Thrughly detangle yur hair befre yu blw dry. 3. Dry yur hair using a micrfiber twel s that it's nt t wet and desn't frizz. Dn't rub and scrunch the hair, just tie the micrfiber twel ver yur head and it will sak up the water. 4. Apply a heat prtectr. Ccnut il can frm an effective heat prtectr as well as a misture seal. 5. Sectin hair. This allws yu t deal with any tangles yu meet systematically and mre easily. 6. Blw dry using a medium t lw heat. D nt use high heat it will damage yur hair. 7. Blw dry dwn the hair s that the air flw is in the same directin in which the cuticle layers lie. 8. Leave a little misture in the hair. It desn't have t be bne dry. 9. Finish the blw dry with a cld blast f air. Ht air pens up the cuticle layer and cld hair clses it up sealing the hair, bsting shine and reducing frizz. 40

41 7. NUTRITION 41

42 Nutritin TIP 27: Eat healthily t grw high quality hair When it cmes t having healthy hair, nurishment has t cme frm the inside ut. An unhealthy diet = pr quality hair. Fr thse that lve their hair, eating well is nt just abut keeping trim. T yur bdy, hair is lw n the list f pririties: Nutritin ges t the vital rgans first and if there's nne left fr hair and nails, then s be it: they will crack, break and grw much mre slwly. Fds that are rich in prtein, irn, vitamin A and B-vitamins are what yu need fr high quality hair. A gd diet wn t change the hair that s already left yur scalp, it s yur new grwth that will lk and feel healthier. 42

43 Nutritin TIP 28: Use a nutritin supplement especially in winter Can nutritin supplements help? If yu have a pr diet and take supplements t substitute fr eating well, yur hair is likely t suffer nnetheless. Hwever, supplements are helpful in making up fr any deficiencies. Fr instance, during winter yu might be lw in Vitamin D which is naturally prduced when yu're expsed t the sun s taking a Vitamin D supplement will help. I take a skin, hair & nails supplement fr this reasn: just in case my diet is lw in smething. The ideal rati f irn t zinc in a supplement is 3:1, i.e. Three times mre irn than zinc leads t increased uptake f irn. 43

44 Great Fds fr Hair Fruit & Veg Bell peppers Brccli Carrts Cauliflwer Dark green leafy veg Tmates Apricts Citrus fruits Mang Papaya Watermeln Raisins Other Beef Chicken Fish Beans, especially red kidney beans Bran Lentils Rice Sybean Cheese Eggs, esp. the ylk Milk 44


46 Dry Hair HATES Cmbs! TIP 29: Dn t cmb dry hair Persnally, I nly cmb my hair with a cmb when I have applied cnditiner r have mistened it with a spray bttle and/r a hair cream. The rest f the time, I finger cmb and finger style. The best type f cmb t use is a large tth cmb because it's gentle n yur hair. Cmbing dry hair will increase the rate f breakage. 46

47 Cmbs and Salns TIP 30: Detangle yur hair fully befre ging t a saln If yu g t a hair saln t braid yur hair etc., they might insist n using a fine-tth cmb. If this is the case: 1. Make sure yur hair has been deep-cnditined befrehand t sften it 2. Finger detangle well 3. Then use a large-tth cmb t detangle befre using the fine-tth cmb s that the fine-tth cmb des the least damage pssible Persnally, I have develped a disliking fr hair salns because I feel many f them dn't treat my hair with respect; they just want t get the jb dne quickly and get paid. That said, there are sme gd nes ut there s ask friends fr recmmendatins and read reviews befre deciding where t g. 47

48 9. SLEEPING 48

49 Sleeping TIP 31: Prtect yur hair with satin when yu g t bed There are tw things yu want t d when yu're sleeping: 1. Prtect hair frm breakage 2. Prtect hair frm getting matted flat against yur head Dehydrated hair is much mre prne t breakage. Cttn materials: Will draw the ils ut f yur hair; Have a rugher texture than satin therefre all yur tssing and turning prvides ample pprtunity fr yur hair t break. Yu'll ntice that the hair n tp f yur head grws faster than in any ther place and the fact that it remains relatively untuched during sleep helps with that. A satin head cap and/r a satin pillw case ffers the best prtectin. 49

50 Sleeping TIP 32: Prtect hair frm breakage Buy a satin head cap: it's mre slippery and will therefre prtect yur hair better than cttn. Yu culd als get a satin pillwcase fr duble prtectin. TIP 33: Prtect hair frm getting matted Twist yur hair prir t ging t bed. Sleeping withut twisting yur hair causes the strands t stick tgether and the cils t get tighter making it hard t style yur hair in the mrning. If yur hair des get matted, spritz using yur water bttle and use yur fingers t lift the hair ut f its matted state. Cmbing matted dry hair will lead t unnecessary breakage. 50


52 Hair Styles Fr Length TIP 34: Wear prtective hair styles t prevent breakage Hair strands are least prtected when they are lse. Peple with dreadlcks partly grw very lng hair because it's always packed tgether; breakage is reduced significantly when the hair strands are tgether. Als, their shed hairs remain matted t the lc whereas shed hair falls ut when yur hair is free. Prtective styles are hair styles that invlve pulling yur hair up s it desn t rub against clthing and (ideally) hiding the ends. It's bviusly mre fun t wear yur hair ut and shw it ff but if yu wear mre prtective styles, yur hair will thank yu with length retentin. Prtective styles are mst imprtant when the weather is bad, i.e. very ht, very cld, windy r rainy. 52

53 11. BRAIDING 53

54 Braids That Break Hair TIP 35: Avid thin r heavy braids Is it kay t braid yur hair? Des it increase hair lss and breakage? Sme peple with natural hair prefer nt t braid their hair at all, ever! The main advantage f braiding yur hair is that it gives yur hair a rest frm cmbing. Hwever, braiding yur hair will lead t breakage if: The braids are tiny Yu neglect yur hair when it s in braids 54

55 Braiding T Grw Hair Tips fr braiding yur hair in such a way that yu dn t get breakage: TIP 36: Make sure yu dn t put a large hair extensin n a small patch f hair. The pulling impact culd lead t breakage. TIP 37: Plait yur hair withut using extensins, e.g. by ding crn rws r single plaits and twists with yur wn hair nly. TIP 38: If yu d use extensins, cnsider crn rwing the hair n the frnt edge. It tends t be mre prne t breakage. TIP 39: Ensure yu treat yur hair just as well in braids as yu d when it s nt. This means washing, deep cnditining and misturizing every 7 t 1 days. TIP 40: Cntinue t spritz it with water twice daily. This will ensure that when yu unbraid the hair it s nt dry and brittle. TIP 41: Dn t g frm ne set f braids straight int a new set; have a break f at least 2 weeks between braids. 55

56 12. WEATHER 56

57 Weather TIP 42: Ensure yur hair is never expsed t bad weather Bad weather naturally damages hair. Bad weather includes: Wind Cld Extremely air cnditined envirnments e.g. n flights During winter wear hats and scarves when yu are utside. This is the single best thing yu can d fr yur hair during winter mnths When yu are n a lng-haul flight take a hat r even better, yur satin night cap, nt the plane with yu Sleeping with yur satin cap n will prtect yur hair in the same way it des when yu sleep at hme T avid awkward lks n the plane, wear a beanie hat n tp f the satin cap - n ne has t knw it's there! 57

58 13. FRIZZ CONTROL! 58

59 Frizz Cntrl TIP 43: Rinse with cld water Warm water causes hair t frizz. Hwever, in rder t lsen dirt and ils frm the scalp and hair during a wash, yu need warm water. The slutin t quell the frizzing is t rinse cnditiner ut with cl water - as cl as yu can stand. This tames frizziness, bsts shininess AND lcks in misture by flattening the hair cuticle. Almst 2yrs natural 59

60 Frizz Cntrl TIP 44: Leave sme f yur rinse-ut cnditiner in yur hair Almst 2yrs natural Accrding t The Science f Black Hair, "If hair dryness and frizziness are majr prblems after shamping and cnditining yur hair, cnsider allwing a small amunt f yur "rinse-ut cnditiner t remain in the hair after rinsing fr additinal cntrl and sleekness. Instant, daily use cnditiners are the best type f rinse-ut cnditiners t leave in. 60

61 Frizz Cntrl TIP 45: Use a micrfiber twel t dry yur wet hair A regular twel ruffles up hair fibres and causes the hair cuticle t lift and frizz. Micrfiber is much mre absrbent than cttn; it saks up water withut yu having t rub the twel in yur hair. TIP46: Try Argan il Argan il is reputed as being the best il fr tempering frizz. Almst 2yrs natural. Wrking n my mhawk 61

62 Frizz Cntrl (just ver a year natural) TIP 47: Master yur hair drying technique Dn't rub r ruffle the hair dry: Either just tie yur micrfiber twel arund yur head and let the water drip int the shirt r twel. Alternatively squeeze gently dwn yur partitins, if yu twisted r plaited yur hair fr the wash. Similarly, if yu keep tuching yur hair yu'll als encurage it t frizz: Lts f tuching and rubbing causes frizziness because yu tamper with the hair's cuticle layer. 62

63 Frizz Cntrl TIP 48: Mix gel and serum Fr mre defined curls, mix a little gel with serum and scrunch (dn't rub) this mixture dwn yur hair by lightly squeezing. Gel, as always, helps t set the style and the serum will smth the hair dwn thereby blcking atmspheric misture frm frizzing the hair. TIP 49: Give the ends a little mre TLC The ends f yur hair are lder, weaker and therefre mre prne t frizz. They need mre misture and (if pssible) will perfrm better if they're nt rubbing against clthing. 63

64 14. TRIMMING 64

65 Why Is Trimming Imprtant? Trimming is imprtant because: 1. It helps yur hair lk gd and well lked after It smartens yu up. Unsightly hair ends are nt attractive. 2. It gets rid f damaged hair Damaged hair and split ends are mre likely t get tangled with healthy hair; this extra frictin encurages mre hair damage and increased breakage. 3. It encurages grwth I'll be the first t admit that I dn't understand hw this wrks but apparently taking care f hair ends helps hair grw. I think this is likely due t better length retentin. It culd als be due t a better hair care regimen generally. 65

66 Hw Often Shuld Yu Trim? There is n hard and fast rule fr when yu shuld trim. I wuld trim: 1. When yur hair needs it Yu knw yur ends need a trim when they are lking wrn ut, dry and frizzy. If yu dn't get rid f thse ends they will end up breaking n their wn and this nrmally leads t mre split ends, unkempt lking hair, tangling and even mre breakage! 2. T keep it neat If yur hair is uneven and messy give it a trim. 3. T stp the ends frm getting damaged I made the mistake f ver trimming! Every tw weeks r s I was cutting ff the ends because they were tangled and hadn't been cmbed thrugh prperly. This is nt necessary at all. What wuld be better is "dusting" the ends. "Dusting" invlves trimming s little hair that it lks like dust. This technique helps t stp split ends frm happening. Yu can dust every 6 t 8 weeks. Seriusly, snip ff a tiny, incnsequential amunt and see! 66

67 Hw T Trim Natural Hair When t d it: n wash day. What type f scissrs t use: very sharp nes. Hw t d it: After yu have rinsed ut bth shamp and cnditiner, apply yur leave-in cnditiner r misturizer. Using a wide-tth cmb make sure yur hair is well detangled befre yu twist it fr air drying. Twist yur whle head. Once twisted trim the end f each twist. Will yur hair be even? It will be even enugh. 67


69 The Weekly (Wash Day Rutine) Regimen fr my medium length 4C/4B. Yu can cpy it r adjust it t suit yu. STEP 1. Finger detangle damp hair...because it is far easier t detangle hair when it is just a little damp rather than when it is wet r very dry. Dampening the hair and sftening it with a little cnditiner is called plasticizing the hair. Prduct: either a leave-in cnditiner r a prper detangler. Shrt hair detangles very quickly and easily; lng hair needs yu t allcate at least an hur, smetime 2 hurs just t detangling. STEP 2. Shamp I nly shamp nce regardless f hw dirty my hair is because I dn't want t strip it t much f it's natural il. I did nt sectin my hair at all at this pint when my hair was shrt r medium length. The "natural hair gurus" had me believing this is a MUST but I didn t seem t suffer fr it then... 69

70 The Weekly (Wash Day) Rutine STEP 2. Shamp cntinued When my length went 2/3 inches past the shulders I did start seeing the benefit f sectining. Leaving it lse exacerbated tangles. If my hair is very dirty I lsen ne sectin at a time, wash it, re-twist then mve t the next bit. STEP 3. Deep cnditin At medium length my hair was still lse at this pint. When it grew lnger I cnditined by sectin then re-twisted the sectin. I then cver my head in a shwer cap, blw dry ver the surface, then cver my head in a twel r a thick head wrap r a beany t trap the heat. STEP 4. Detangle again but this time with a cmb I take the shwer cap ff, untwist the hair, detangle again and retwist. This was the first time I twisted my hair at medium length. 70

71 The Weekly (Wash Day) Rutine STEP 5. Rinse ut cnditiner STEP 6. Misturize and plait r twist each sectin. My hair has t be twisted r plaited t stretch it. As mentined befre, Wash & Gs dn t wrk fr my type f 4C/4B hair; it shrinks t much by day 2 making styling t tugh. When it was shrter I nly did 3-strand plaits because they were the mst effective at stretching. Nw that I have gne past shulder-length, twisting stretches the hair enugh t d all the styles I like. It s nt as stretched as with plaits but it takes a lt less time. First, I massage just the scalp using Nen Natural's Hair Grwth Stimulatr. Then I apply a creamy leave in cnditiner/misturizer just t the hair and then seal with an il r hair butter. 71

72 The Daily Rutine When nt in braids 1. Spritz sme water n yur twisted r untwisted hair. If yu ll be in a prtective style yu can use as much water as yu want but if yu ll have yur hair ut use very little water t prevent frizzing. 2. Cver head in a shwer cap whilst yu get ready fr the day if hair is matted r very dry. 3. Add a little creamy misturizer t sften hair, il t seal, then style! 4. Twist hair befre bed, massage the Nen Natural s Hair Grwth Stimulatr int rts. If yu dn t misturize all yur hair then misturize the ends nly. Hair ends are the ldest and driest sectin f hair; they als tend t be weaker. When in braids r twists I massage Nen Natural s Hair Grwth Stimulatr int my scalp literally daily especially in the early days. 72

73 Other Peple s Regimens It s all gd and well knwing what my regimen is t infrm yur wn, hwever, I realized that we can all learn frm each ther. In Dec-2013 I intrduced a feature sectin called the Queen f Kinks, Curls & Cils (Queen f Kinks in brief) n In this sectin yu can learn abut ther peple regimens (peple f different hair types and frm different parts f the wrld) including their tp tips and hair tragedies. Yu can als use t be cnsidered fr the feature. See ther regimens at: 73

74 16. PRODUCTS 74

75 Prducts Whilst it s nw easy t find decent prducts in the US and the UK there are s many brands that yu need help picking the best nes. I asked peple n the Facebk page which prducts were wrking fr them and this was the result: Recmmended cmmercial prducts: If yu re struggling t find prducts that are gd fr natural hair try making yur wn using kitchen r husehld ingredients: DIY recipes: (scrll dwn) These prducts d nt exist yet, they ll be ut in late 2014! 75

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