BETITEX. june An European Strategy for Hi-tech turns trendy. Globalization TECHNEWS

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1 FREE PRESS TECHNEWS INNOVATION june 2014 An European Strategy for 2020 Technological innovation, multidisciplinary cooperation, new business models for the Textiles & Clothing Development BETITEX Development of sustainable textiles against ticks and bedbugs TECHNEWS Hi-tech turns trendy Performance, appearance and comfort: new trends presented by Milano Unica NETWORK Globalization Business opportunities offered by new markets and application fields TexClubTec Viale Sarca Milano (Italy)

2 44599 ICE JACKET WOOL BLEND _ THERMO-SENSITIVE FABRIC FIELD JACKET IN A MÉLANGE EFFECT FABRIC CREATED IN A WOOL AND POLYESTER BLEND COATED WITH A THERMO-SENSITIVE RESIN TREATMENT. THE MOLECULES OF THE MICRO PIGMENTS ENCAPSULATED IN THE RESIN CHANGE THE PATH OF LIGHT AND GET DARKER AS THE TEMPERATURE DROPS. THE GARMENT IS THEN PADDED WITH THE FINEST DOWN. DETACHABLE HOOD IN THERMO-CHROMATIC NYLON FABRIC WITH AN ELASTIC TAPE CARRYING TWO PARALLEL STRIPES INSIDE THE VISOR. ZIP AND BUTTON FASTENING.

3 1 EDITORIAL Aldo Tempesti Director TexClubTec According to Euratex, technical textiles represent 30% of the total turnover of the European Union, i.e. about 30 billion euros, 15,000 companies and 300,000 workers. Furthermore, since technical textiles interact with many productive sectors at the same time, an overall analysis considering also the turnover of the related industrial fields will boost the estimate of the total European production of technical textiles up to 50 billion euros. In such a scenario, Italian productive sectors conquered an international leading positioning in technical textiles, along with its well-known leading role in fashion. However, difficulties to cope with are the lack of means to elaborate an technological innovative strategy on one hand; the lack of support in improving Italian competitiveness on the other. But this is not a problem related only to this sector; in fact, technical textiles present themselves as the way to enable other sectors, proposing multifunctional materials or new technologies adaptable to other materials and triggering new development process on large scale. So, it becomes strategic to support companies competitiveness, acquiring and strengthening market positioning before extra-european competitors, that identifying the opportunities offered by globalization, are already acknowledging the importance of the technical textile sector. Last month, Techtextil North America took place in Atlanta (Georgia) and the participation at this event gave the chance to check how US economy is evolving and the related results on Textiles&Clothing. Following the positive trend of 2013, despite the unsteady international and political situation, United States seem to be in a moderate optimism, remarking a positive trend for the future that should be valid for the next decade. Some of the main factors that underline those good perspectives, effects due to strategic choices, are, for instance, the increase in research and innovation funding, advantages derived by energy cost reductions, higher investments aimed to purchase efficient production implants (resulting in productivity and quality improvements), governmental support in coping with illicit imports and in favoring exports. This strategic choices put in action far-back are already giving results: since the higher quality of goods, consumers are focusing their attention on Made in US products, the gap between US and Asian costs decreased remarkably and exports registered 30% increase in comparison with 10 years ago. As reported in Tex Innovation, since 2004, US economy recovered 10% of competitive advantage against Chinese goods (only 4% more competitive by now) since Too little to stimulate further outsourcing from US towards China, seeking for lower production costs. The question is: when is it going to happen also in Italy?

4 Managing Director: Aldo Tempesti - Managing Director of TexClubTec Design & Layout: Lorenzo Tempesti Printing: Gruppo Stampa GB S.r.l. Translation: Silvia Imbrosciano Credits: We thank Paolo Canonico (ETP), Guido Chiappa, Alessandra Monero, Tanya Scalia, Federico Di Gennaro (D Appolonia S.p.a.), Ariadna Detrell (Gremi Textil de Terrassa), Marolda Brouta (Leitat Technological Center), Félix Fontal (Tecnalia), Angelo Uslenghi (Milano Unica) e Carlo Rivetti (Stone Island) for their contribution to this publication. June 2014

5 CONTENTS June TEXCLUBTEC WORLD 4 INNOVATION An European Strategy for 2020 Technological innovation, multidisciplinary cooperation, new business models for the Textile & Clothing development 7 Key Enabling Technologies The future of textiles 10 Betitex Development of sustainable textiles against ticks and bedbugs 14 Quality of Life, Health and Social Involvement Technological development in innovative textiles for ageing population 17 Back to Italy? 21 TECHNEWS Hi-tech turns Trendy Performance, appearance, and comfort: new trends presented by Milano Unica 23 New Markets, New Applications, New Products 25 Stone Island Research and function 26 Reset Project Free training courses to meet the needs for development in the Textile & Fashion and Technical Textiles sectors 27 NETWORK Globalization Business opportunities offered by new markets and application fields 29 NanoItalTex 2014 The 9th edition of the Conference dedicated to innovations in Textiles & Clothing 32

6 4 TEXCLUBTEC WORLD EVENTS ISPO 2014 Munich _ Milano Unica Milan _ Workshop on industrial filtration Shanghai _ Techtextil North America Atlanta GA _ Workshop on Sportswear textiles Milan _ Milano Unica Milan _ Cinte Techtextil Shanghai _ NanoItaltex 2014 Biella _c ISPO 2015 Munich _ PUBLICATIONS TEX INNOVATION Released for the first time in 2008, Tex Innovation embodies TexClubTec's desire to offer a tool to monitor the evolution of application areas in the technical textile sector, that includes articles about products, production processes and new technologies. After 5 years on the field, Tex Innovation changes itself with new layout and contents, in order to satisfy the needs of a sector that becomes wider and more and more demanding every day. To see last issues of Tex Innovation, visit the related area at MONDO TESSILE Not only technical textiles! Special edition about Home textiles in the US TECNOTESSILI Special edition about Automotive textiles TEXTILEBRIEF TextileBrief is a three-montly publication focusing on textile&clothing and innovative textiles. Written in English in order to make it usable for a wider international public, it's distributed only in PDF Format and includes articles from Italian publications (Mondo Tessile - Textile&Cloting and TecnoTessile - Technical Innovative Textiles) and other unpublished studies. for further information on publications and previous editions please contact info@texclubtec.it or visit our website

7 RESEARCH 7th Framework Programme European Commission 5 STOREPET Application area: Building Objective: Development of PCMbased innovative thermoregulating and insulating solutions for the Light-weight building sector Industrial Associations: TexClubTec - Italy;WW Slovenski Gradbeni Grozd, Gospodarsko Interesno Združenje (SGG) - Slovenia; Asociación Española de Empresas de Ingegnería, Consultoría y Servicios Tecnológicos (TECNIBERIA) - Spain; Gradjevinski Klaster Dundjer (DUNDJER) - Serbia; Small Medium Companies: Ecoterra Desarrollo Sostenibile SL (Grupo Ideo) - Spain; Construcciones García Rama SL - Spain; Devan-Micropolis S.A. Portugal; Research centres: Inspiralia S.L. - Spain; Instituto Pedro Nunes - Associação para a Inovação e Desenvolvimento em Ciência e Tecnologia (IPN) - Portugal; Centro Tessile Cotoniero e Abbigliamento Spa - Italy; Acciona Infraestructuras - Spain. BETITEX Application Area: Protection Objective: Protective textiles against bug bites Industrial Associations: Gremi Textil de Terrassa Association Gremi - Spain; Clutex - Klastr technicke textilie - Czech Republic; TexClubTec - Italy; Asociacion de empresarios textiles de la regionvalenciana ateval - Spain; Acondicionamiento Tarrasense Association Leitat - Spain; Research Centers: Fundacion Tecnalia Research & Innovation - Spain; Small Medium Enterprises: Inotex Spol S.r.o., Silk&Progress Spol R.o. - Czech Republic; Nilka Tekstil Sanayi Ve Ticaret Limited Sirketi Nilka - Turkey; Gem Innov S.a.s. - France; Iqap Masterbatch Group S.l. - Spain. MULTITEXCO Application Area: Building Objective: Identify performance features and exploit conditions of the new generation of multifunctional technical textiles in the building sector. Industrial Association: Texclubtec - Italy; Clubtex - France; Cati Sanayici Ve Is Adamlari Dernegi - Turkey; VPI - BW Vereinigung der Prüfingenieure - Baden Württemberg - Germany; Asociacion de empresarios de la construccion, promocion y afines de la rioja - Spain. Centri di Ricerca: D'appolonia S.p.a. - Italy; Centre scientifique & Technique de l'industrie textile Belge - Belgium; Karlsruher Institut fuer Technologie - Germany; Acciona Infraestructuras S.a. - Spain; Piccole Medie Imprese: Carpro S.p.r.l. - Belgium; Selcom S.r.l. - Italy; Arimeks Mim.Müh.Ins.Ve Dis Tic L.t.d. - Turkey. WASH&LOAD Application area: Protective and Work wear Objective: Enabling an innovative and affordable multi-functionality loading service for functional protective clothing that leverage on the textile service companies while increasing safety for the operators. Industrial association: C.I.N.E.T. (Comité International de l'entretien du Textile) Netherlands; Federatie Textielbeheer Nederland Netherlands; Deutscher Textilreinigungsverbandtdtv EV; Texclubtec - Italy; Verband der Nordostdeutschen Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie EV (VTI) Germany; Universiteit Twente Netherlands. Small Medium companies: Franz Schafer Etiketten GMBH; IRIS-SW switzerland; Varo Logistic Quality Service SRL VARO Italy; WSP systems BV Paesi Bassi; D'Appolonia SPA - Italia; Research centres: Saechsisches Textilforschungsins E.V. (STFI) - Germany; Technologisch Kenniscentrum Textielverzorging TKT Netherlandst; Lavans BV Netherlands. MADMAX Application Area: Trasports - Smart Composite Objective: Advanced Material Textile for Reinforced Structures for Complex Lightweight Applications Industrial Associations: Association Up-Tex - France; Industrieverband Garne Gewebe Technische Textilien EV - Germany; Texclubtec- Italy; Research Centers: Association pour la Recherche et le Development des methodes et processus industriels - Armines - France; Scuola Universitaria professionale della Svizzera italiana (SUPSI) - Switzerland; Technische Universitaet Dresden - Germany; Next Technology Tecnotessile Società Nazionale di Ricerca S.r.l. - Italy; Fraunhofer-Gesellschaft zur foerderung der angewandten forschung EV - Germany; Universitè de Valenciennes et du Hainaut Cambresis - France; Ecole Centrale de Nantes - France; Small Medium Enterprises: Kringlan Composites AG - Switzerland; Esi Group S.A. - France; Soliani EMC SRL. - Italy; Stratiforme Industries SAS. - France; Mipnet Industries - France.

8 6 NEW MEMBERS Miroglio Textile S.r.l. Miroglio Textile is the company of Miroglio Group specialized in production and sale of a broad array of articles spanning the entire spectrum of textile sector. With three production sites, Miroglio Textile develops particularly sophisticated products mainly built around three lines of merchandize: fabrics, spun yarns, transfer paper and technical film. The company s core business is the Printing Division, through which it leads the way in Europe. Tespe S.r.l. Manufacture of Technical Textiles for thermal insulation and industrial seals for high temperature in Glass Fibre, Ceramic Fibre, Silica, Asbestos-Free: Braided Packings, Ropes, Knitted Cordes, Sleeves, Tapes, Fabrics, Insulation Pillows, Expansion Joints Ugolini S.r.l. Manufacturing of dyeing machines. Yarn and fabric dyeing machines, laboratory machinery, stainless steel accessories, hydro extractors, dryers, dye house automation. Rotating storages. ICIS - Insubria The Insubria Center on International Security (ICIS) is a highly specialized Center established in 2007 at the University of Insubria (Italy) and focused on international security issues and international cooperation projects. Novurania S.p.a. Design and production of rubber coated fabrics and or films, and of rubber sheets (up to 2500 mm width) cured or uncured. Production of rubber sheets or fabric composites in commission coating with compounds supplied by customer. Cofra S.r.l. Production of safety shoes, trekking and leisure footwear. Production of safety gloves and other Personal Protective Equipments. Flainox S.r.l. Founded in 1968, FLAINOX has been operating in the dyeing/finishing plant and machinery construction. Specialized in the construction of rotary dye machines suitable for all types of garments. Today we present ourselves to the worldwide textile market with the SUSTAINABILITY mission, which involves the whole organization for the construction of more efficient and environmentally friendly machinery. Servizi Ospedalieri S.p.a. Cleaning e rental service of flat and packaged linen for hospitals and nursing homes. Internal logistics management and Sterilization centers. Supplying and Sterilization of kits for the operating room and surgical instruments. Stefano Mardegan S.r.l. Producer and wholesaler of Technical Textiles. Artificial leather, two sides coated fabrics, laminated and coated textiles and TPU coated fabrics. Coated fabrics (mainly nylon and polyester), dyed and greige textiles.

9 Innovation 7 INNOVATION An European strategy for 2020 Technological innovation, multidisciplinary cooperation, new business models for the Textiles & Clothing development It has been a long time since the European textile industry set the premises for the first Industrial Revolution. During this time laps many technological, economic and social evolutions took place affecting the textile sector in a significant way - both in its production processes and market dynamics.

10 Innovation 8 More recently, globalization and the related shift of the industrial and manufacturing pole to the Asian area as far as consumption goods - as well as the remarkable growth of new markets and application fields - led to a new geographical configuration of the textile world. For that, many European countries had to reconsider their strategies, organograms and market objectives in order to make their products more competitive and keep in playing a leading role on the global market. The small and medium dimension of most part of both European and Italian companies and their satellites activities, the limited domestic resources, the lack of a long-medium term vision and the fickle cooperative will make harder to cope with industrial progresses and developments of other geographical areas. In a world in which markets evolve rapidly looking for new solutions and industrial applications, some specific sectors - technical textiles in particular - find new opportunities for development. Conducting market-oriented research activities; Expanding business borders and market visions through collaborations with industrial partners and international research centers; Developing a medium long term vision among technology and material suppliers of the supply chain; Industrializing processes and products, after a feasibility verification of a new concept and idea, not stopping at the mere prototyping and keeping in mind that outside Europe there is an aggressive world moving fast; Reducing the time to market of a product. In this case, technical textiles are not seen as simple products, but, on the contrary, they re considered as technical solutions able to substitute other materials with better performances and reliability. The success of textile solutions for industrial purposes is often subordinated to the comprehension of what is needed by a specific application field, expressed in languages, measures and sizes that differ from those of textiles. For that, it s fundamental to understand, transform and interpret correctly those requirements and transfer them in textile products with technical features or/and in finishing processes. In order to enter new markets, it s often necessary to change classic business models and adapt to new needs in which relationships among companies, customers and suppliers follow new standards. Anyway, textile industries have to change themselves too to compete on evolving markets. The higher the innovative content of products/processes will be, the more effective those changes will be. Among actions to be taken, those that will determine the future of Italian and European textiles are: Shifting from commodity products to specialty products, in order to underline the operating flexibility and ability in offering tailor-made solutions; It s clear that, in a scenario in which competitiveness moved to an international level, actions must be taken, with no more delay and with renovated enthusiasm and determination in order to offer the market products and processes with added value. This is what must be done to retake or strengthen the prestigious market positioning that European and Italian textile industries deserve. Be willing to innovate and knowing how to do it are the fundamental and strategic factors for a new growth of the textile industry. Along with a strong collaboration with universities and research centers, textile innovation is extremely linked to innovations in the related industrial fields with which textiles have economic relationships. There's no fabric without yarns, there's no fabric without a loom, indeed. It s obvious also that chemicals (polymers, fibers, additives, coatings etc.), machineries and technologies deeply affect the textile industry development. For that, in order to offer new products and solutions, it will be fundamental to conceive new development projects, also through the cooperation among companies of the supply chain with complementary expertise. The more technical scientific and multidisciplinary the approach will be, the more valid and strategic new products will be for companies. For a real and durable growth, the textile industry needs to focus on the following topics: Collaborative research & technology development projects with a clear end-market focus; Young talent with industry & innovation relevant qualifications; Facilitated access to and networking with innovation partners beyond the national borders;

11 Innovation 9 Access to innovation funding (grants for research, exploration & competence development + loans for new technology investments, fiscal incentives); A local/regional support structure especially for SMEs (technology & transfer centers, education & training providers, clusters, smart & supportive authorities). For this reason, the European Textile Technology Platform, that works as a support to innovation processes for textiles & clothing companies, analyzed areas expected to grow the most in the next years as far as textiles are concerned, and identified the main development features: Advanced functional light-weight materials; Innovative textile solutions for new applications and markets; Consumer-driven, personalized, local and sustainable production; New business models TFE1 Innovative textile raw material approaches focussing on sustainability (recycling, bio-polymers, sustainable natural fibres) Sustainable textile raw materials and closed loop material cycles; Flexible digital and resource-efficient textile production processes & smart factories. Furthermore, with the program Textile Flagship for Europe, that includes the participation of the greatest experts of the European textile sector both from universities and industries, ETP drafted a list of the 7 topics for future developments in compliance with EU directives and suggestions (fundamental premise to join in EU-funded research projects of Horizon 2020). TFE2 Turning major wet textile processes into dry and energy-efficient processes TFE3 TFE4 TFE5 Efficient manufacturing of textile-based 3D shaped composites Multifunctional textile materials for energy-efficient, safe construction and new architectural solutions Innovative technical textiles for various marine applications and coastal protection The awareness of living in a period that represent a historic passage in the evolution of the industrial world and its markets and in which paradigms of the past applied for decades also to the textile world are no more valid, should lead to create new opportunities on the basis of what European and Italian cultures produced and preserved for generations. And this must be done by highlighting skills of those who played a leading role all along, but with the humility and knowledge of who knows well that - to be on top it s also necessary to change structure and strategies when the road we're going through asks for that. TFE6 Innovative textile solutions for erosion/plant protection and water-efficiency in agriculture & landscaping Paolo Canonico, President of the European Technology Platform for the Future of Textiles and Clothing TFE7 Digital Fashion - Consumer-driven digital, integrated textile & clothing creation and making near the point of sale

12 Innovation 10 Key Enabling Technologies in the future of textiles Key Enabling Technologies (KETs) are the technologies of the future that have been identified as strategic to Europe. KETs have applications in multiple industries, in emerging and traditional sectors. They comprise micro- and nanoelectronics, nanotechnology, industrial biotechnology, advanced materials, photonics and advanced manufacturing technologies. The European Commission has established an EU strategy to boost the industrial production of KETsbased products, e.g. innovative products and applications of the future. The strategy aims to keep pace with the EU s main international competitors, restore growth in Europe and create jobs in industry, at the same time addressing today s burning societal challenges. KETs are at the core of the EU Industrial Policy flagship initiative, as confirmed in the recent communication For a European Industrial Renaissancè. KETs provide the technological building blocks that enable a wide range of product applications. While each of the KETs individually already has huge potential for innovation, their cross-fertilization is particularly important as combinations of KETs offer even greater possibilities to foster innovation and create new markets. The concept of cross-cutting KETs refers to the integration of different key enabling technologies in a way that creates value beyond the sum of the individual technologies. Cross-cutting KETs activities bring therefore together and integrate different Key Enabling Technologies (KETs) and reflect the interdisciplinary nature of technological development. They have the potential to lead to unforeseen advances and new markets, and are important contributions to new technological components or products. Within this framework, the main scope of the study Methodology, work plan and roadmap for cross-cutting KETs activities in Horizon 2020 (RO-cKETs) has been to produce a shared methodology and a proposal for a cross-cutting KETs roadmap, which will provide input to the preparation of the cross-cutting KETs part of Horizon Taking the demand side as a starting point, the study, which was coordinated by D Appolonia and leveraged the contribution of players such as CEA (Commissariat à L'Energie Atomique et aux Energies Alternatives); JIIP (the Joint Institute for Innovation Policy, a joint undertaking founded by the largest European RTOs with activities in the area of innovation and related policies, leveraging for the scope of this service on the experience and knowledge of TNO, TECNALIA and VTT); CNR-DSCTM (the Italian National Research Council - Department of Chemical Science and Material Technology), IBEC Barcelona (the In- stitute for Bioengineering of Catalonia) and Fraunhofer ISI (the German Institute for Systems and Innovation Research), shall help the Commission to identify the most promising areas of innovation for cross-cutting KETs that address clear industrial and market needs in a broad number of industrial sectors. This has been based, among other things, on desk research, interviews as well as workshops with industrial stakeholders, workshops with policy makers, and the validation of findings through surveys involving both KETs experts as well as industrial stakeholders. More than 700 experts were involved in this roadmapping exercise. The methodology developed and implemented within RO-cKETs consisted of three main steps: 1. Identification of innovation fields of industrial interest potentially providing promising opportunities for cross-cutting KETs developments. To this aim a broad analysis of the demand was carried out starting from Strategic Research (and Innovation) Agendas, Strategic Roadmaps, and other available acknowledged sources of information with European relevance that were subsequently complemented by reviews and inputs from more than 80 representatives of key industrial players in the industrial sectors in scope of the analysis collected through interviews and workshops. 2. Analysis of the technological offering to be provided by KETs and more specifically by the cross-fertilization between KETs thanks to the extensive involvement of high level technology experts. The analysis leverages views of 272 experts in the 6 KETs, mobilized via a dedicated Europe-wide online-based survey. Technology experts were called to provide input regarding which KETs could individually contribute to each innovation field and moreover to assess whether the integration of the potentially contributing KETs beyond their mere combination could constitute an additional success factor for the effective bridging of the Valley of Death of highly innovative products. 3. Identification of the most promising areas of converging industrial interest for cross-cutting KETs. A second Europe-wide online-based surveys was launched in order to gain industry experts opinions with regard to market demand aspects. This second survey was addressed to CEOs, CTOs, R&D managers, technology managers, development directors, who were called to assess the identi-

13 fied innovation fields in terms of market impact and opportunity toward growth and job creation. Results leverage opinions of 285 industry experts. Once available, the combined results of the two surveys as well as the result of patents scenario analyses that were carried out for each of the identified innovation fields of industrial interest allowed defining a shortlist of key innovation fields of industrial interest with highest potential for cross-cutting KETs developments, which constitute the nodes of the roadmap for cross-cutting KETs activities. Overall, 257 innovation fields potentially providing promising opportunities for cross-cutting KETs development were identified in the first part of the project. As a result of both the technical and the industry experts consultations, 115 out of the 257 identified innovation fields were shortlisted and grouped into 13 domains, namely Electronics and communication; Chemicals, chemical processes and materials; Manufacturing and automation (including robotics); Energy (including energy generation, storage, transmission and distribution); Transport and mobility (including road, rail, marine and air transport as well as logistics besides Space); Civil security (including dual use applications); Construction; Mining, quarrying and extraction; Environment (including water supply, sewerage, waste management and remediation); Health and healthcare; Education, training and edutainment; Textiles; and Agro-food. According to the analysis, the Textile industry is already in the process of integrating Key Enabling Technologies into high added value products in both traditional and technical applications and the cross-fertilization between KETs is already part of textile developments. Textile products and their manufacturing were also chosen as one of three domains for a dedicated workshop to validate the RO-cKETs methodology. In the textile domain, the shortlist of key innovation fields of industrial interest with highest potential for cross-cutting KETs developments counts 8 major opportunities (see Table), which have been classified into two main areas, namely Novel functional and high performance fibres and fabrics and Improved, functional textile-based products. In the following table the full list of these innovation fields is reported. Wearable active textiles and clothing for improved human performance aimed at human safety and protection Active textiles with embedded sensing capabilities for large area applications Functionalized textile products for better health, wellbeing, comfort and aesthetics Textiles with enhanced care (cleaning, washing, etc.) properties Functional (para-) medical textiles Technical textiles and textile products for specialized industrial applications Bio-based fibres with tailored properties Biodegradable fibres and textiles for increased environmental sustainability Wearable textiles/clothing capable of measuring and communicating living functions (including by integrated sensors, flexible screens, embedded energy storage or harvesting devices) and/or reacting autonomously to changing activities/conditions in order to optimise the wearer's comfort and safety Active textiles with embedded sensing functionalities capable to react autonomously or actively to the changing conditions of the environment for large area applications in environmental protection, environmental risks mitigation, construction, structural health monitoring Textile products with enhanced functionalities and performances for better health, wellbeing, comfort characteristics and aesthetics E.g. longer-lasting, dirt repelling Functional textiles and textile products (such as e.g. bandages) with built in functionalities such as, e.g., the release of drugs or active components, etc. Improved functionalities/performance (such as e.g. textile-based filters with high filtration efficiencies; lightweight, non-flammable, scratch resistant textiles for mobile applications including for seats and in-vehicle garments, etc.) Intended for biomedical, textile and technical applications to move away from refined-oil based products Reducing the impact textiles have on the environment, e.g by using sustainable sources Innovation 11

14 Innovation 12 In the following chart the possible contribution from each KET to the different innovation fields is depicted. IB PH MN-E NT AM AMT Industrial Biotechnology Photonics Micro and Nano Electronics Nano Technology Advanced Materials Advanced Manufacturing Systems Figure 1 The Cross-KETs contribution is highlighted in the histogram: each innovation field is empowered with the combination of several KETs; e.g. Active textiles with embedded sensing capabilities for large area applications is the right example, with all the 6 KETs contributing in this innovation field. In addition to these innovation fields, there are indeed a number of opportunities for cross-cutting KETs developments potentially including textile technologies in other domains (e.g. Transport, Health and Healthcare, Construction, etc.) or contributing to textile production (Manufacturing and Automation, Chemical Processes, Chemicals, Chemical Products & Materials). In the following Table an overview of these additional cross-sectoral opportunities is provided. Guido Chiappa, Alessandra Monero, Tanya Scalia, Federico Di Gennaro D Appolonia S.p.A.

15 Transport (including Space) Advanced vehicle structures Car chassis, airframes, ship hull, train platforms and all vehicle structures being lightweight, crashproof, resilient to wear and fatigue, eventually functionalized, coated/treated for improved properties, produced with minimal use of materials and chemicals, recyclable and cost-effective Innovation 13 Health & Healthcare Connected systems for theranostics Integrated solutions enabling health and disease monitoring as well as assisted living (e.g. assistance for disabilities and/or chronic diseases, rehabilitation monitoring, personalized fitness or nutrition assistance, etc.) Chemical Processes, Chemicals, Chemical Products & Materials Bio-based fine, as well as specialty, chemicals, bio-polymers and other bio-based derivatives Bio-based fine, and specialty chemicals, bio-polymers, bio-lubricants, and other bio-based materials as well as derivatives produced starting from renewable resources, which may either be biodegradable/compostable or have properties that render them suitable for durable applications Chemical Processes, Chemicals, Chemical Products & Materials High-strength / low-weight fibre-reinforced polymer composite materials Fibre-reinforced polymer composites with superior strength and lower weight for application in transport (to reduce fuel consumption while guaranteeing strength), civil engineering (to substitute steel in structures requiring to combine strength with lightweight), sports equipment, etc. Chemical Processes, Chemicals, Chemical Products & Materials Construction Advanced composite materials and new material architectures with added functionalities Insulating materials and components for the energetic improvement of the building envelope Mainly structural materials with added functionalities such as e.g. for sensing or self-repair, and new material architectures incorporating novel fibres, nanomaterials, etc., capable to provide added functionalities to large structures Cost-effective and environmentally sustainable insulating materials and components Construction Lightweight structural beams and components Allowing completely new shapes, huge reductions in structure weight, besides and easing construction in complex constructions Manufacturing & Automation Tools and concepts to process new and advanced materials New tools and concepts for precise and fast machining and processing of new and advanced materials, especially with respect to casting, forming, molding, material removal, shaping, etc. Manufacturing & Automation Automated production of thermoset and thermoplastic composite structures/products Combinations of methods (automated production, out-of-autoclave production, press forming and welding, laser cutting and joining) and materials (resins and polymer matrix combinations, curable, reusable and recyclable thermoplastics) for weight reduction and novel constructs Manufacturing & Automation Energy-efficient factories Concepts for energy generation and recovery in production, substitution of high-temperature processes Manufacturing & Automation Tools and equipment for manufacturing of high performance flexible structures Methods and technologies realising the full potential of high performance polymers and advanced textiles, including for 3D structured, multi-layered and hybrid materials, joint-free complex shapes, automated joining and a wide range of surface engineering and functionalisation techniques. Manufacturing & Automation Material/resource efficient manufacturing processes Material-saving production processes with improved material efficiency and recovery, flexible use of substitute materials, near-net-shaped concepts and / or additive manufacturing, remanufacturing, recycling, hybrid processes, better use of waste streams and processes interactions

16 Innovation 14 Betitex Development of sustainable textiles against ticks and bedbugs It seemed to be a problem of the past or defined in limited geographical areas such as Anglo-Saxon countries. On the contrary, bedbugs and ticks spread is severely increasing due to their higher resistance to insecticides, climate changes, high number of travelling people. Ticks (Acari: Argasidae, Ixodidae) and bedbugs (Hemiptera: Cimicidae) are obligate hematophagous arthropods, all juvenile stages and adults (male and female) feed on blood exclusively, being the humans hosts of several species all over the world. On one hand, ticks are well known as vectors of important medical and veterinary transmission under natural conditions. Bedbugs have been reported as probable hidden environmental reservoir of antimicrobial drug resistant bacteria to humans such as methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) and vancomycin - resistant Enterococcus faecium (VRE), and some studies found these resistant bacteria carried by bedbugs. These insects reduce quality of life by causing anxiety, discomfort, skin-disorders, sleeplessness, anemia and even anaphylaxis can also occur. There is an international concern for their vectorial capacity-competence, their physical-psychological effects in bitten people and their high incidence in strategic economic sectors such as diseases, besides causing hurts and irritant bites. Zoonotic Tick-borne Diseases (TBDs) in Europe are caused by bacteria and virus in humans and wild-domestic animals. Nowadays, ticks are more common to be found than in the past and their number is increasing in Eastern and Central Europe, especially in April and October. Countries with the highest concentration are: Hungary, Czech Republic, Austria, Russia and Baltic countries. Bedbugs are suspected of transmitting human infectious agents but, to our knowledge, despite transmissibility research, available data don't prove effective tourism. Bugs had been an endemic phenomenon in Europe until World War Second. Later, thanks to higher hygiene both in people and houses and the use of insecticides, they totally disappeared. Unfortunately, signs of bedbugs return recently have been recorded again in Europe, United States, Canada and Australia while they have been already identified many times in Southern France. Chemical resistance in insects and other arthropods, the increased legislative restriction of the pesticide market and other causes such as anthropogenic factors (e.g. change in land use, habitat disturbances, etc.) and the climate change (with warmer winters at the northern limit of arthropod-vector species), are demanding new control technological options such as protective textiles to manage vector species and to minimize transmission risk of medical and veterinary diseases worldwide. Although ticks and bedbugs are present in different environments (ticks are widely found outdoor, in lawn and forests whereas bedbugs are mainly found in homes and hotels), they have a similar behavior and they can be affected by same kind of biocides.

17 BETITEX PROJECT BETITEX project, which started on 1st November 2013, will try to solve current problems and lacks of obtaining protection against ticks and bedbugs. BETITEX is a research and development project with the aim of obtaining textile materials capable of providing protection against ticks and bedbugs, with high durability through slow release of the repellent/insecticide effect. Main sectors of application for the obtained textile materials will be personal protective equipment (ticks) and home textiles (bedbugs). It is cofounded by the European Union's Seventh Framework Programme (FP7/ ) under grant agreement nº , with a total budged of BETITEX has a total of 8 Work Packages which will be executed during 36 months by the 11 partners forming part of the project consortium: 3 SMEs Associations: GREMI TEXTIL DE TERRASSA (coordinator) and ATEVAL from Spain, CLUTEX from Czech Republic and TEXCLUBTEC from Italy; 3 technological centers: INOTEX from Czech Republic and LEITAT (member of Tecnio) and TECNALIA both from Spain and 4 SMEs: GEM INNOV from France, LA INDUSTRIAL ALGODON- ERA from Spain, NILKA from Turkey and SILK&PROGRESS from Czech Republic. Up to now, a study of different biocide substances in order to identify the more sustainable ones (accepted by the 98/8/EC Directive) capable of providing repellent or insecticide effect against ticks and bedbugs and being suitable for textile applications, has been done. Furthermore, a study of the two application sectors of the products to be obtained (home textiles and personal protective textiles) in order to detect the raw materials to be studied during the project has been carried out and four different textile materials have been selected. As washing fastness of the insecticide/repellent effect is one of the main goals of BETITEX, innovative embedding techniques are foreseen. Biocides accepted by the 98/8/EC Directive will be studied and introduced into upgraded microcapsules, sol gel and polymer matrix to achieve high protection and high washing fastness. BETITEX results will contribute to promote a greener and more competitive economy as the final textile products will be as sustainable as possible by means of using natural, biodegradable or recyclable textile materials in combination with authorized biocides and by using eco-friendly textile technologies. Marolda Brouta, LEITAT TECHNOLOGICAL CENTER (Spain) Dr. Ariadna Detrell, GREMI TÈXTIL DE TERRASSA (Spain) Dr. Félix Fontal, TECNALIA (Spain) Further information: Innovation 15

18 Innovation 16 Great champions don t always make a great team. But a great team makes great champions. RadiciGroup: Where Sustainability Is a Team Sport Sustainability is at the core of RadiciGroup operations. Our polyamide polymers are made using green energy generated from renewable resources. Our brand names ensure quality and safety in sport applications. Our synthetic turf yarn, for instance, is free of lead and other heavy metals, and our yarn for sportswear and technicalwear complies with the strictest health and environmental laws and regulations. Polypropylene, polyethylene and polyamide artificial grass yarn for sport fields. Polyamide engineering plastics used for the production of sport footwear and accessories. Polyester yarn derived from recycled polymer used for the production of sportswear and leisurewear. Polyamide yarn used for the production of technicalwear and sportswear. RadiciGroup: Chemicals, Plastics, Fibers & Nonwovens

19 Quality of life, Health and Social involvement Technological development in innovative textile for ageing population. Because of general climate changes, the problem of heat waves becomes more and more remarkable every year, affecting severely aged population. In fact, thanks to in-depth analysis, it is possible to evaluate the impact that persistent unease due to climate conditions has on specific pathologies, heart attacks included. In this sense, the main objective to be pursued is to create more comfortable life conditions for the most affected categories, old people above all. Anyway, climate conditions are not the only reason why old people are given the attention of sociologists and researchers. The increase of average life, indeed, causes the lengthening of the working period on one hand, while highlighting the problem of how it could be possible to put together some kind of physical activities with human bodies with weaker conditions (in terms of safety, physical efforts, building planning etc.). In this scenario, the entire industrial sector is focusing on how to approach those issues from 2 different points of view: ageing population and environmental issues. Today, about 14% of the European population is aged over 65 and this percentage is expected to double by 2050, when there will be 80 million old citizens in Europe. This trend will have also a remarkable impact on products and services supplying. General Overview of the Textile & Clothing sector. Since clothing consumption is expected to grow slowly in developed countries, product customization or significant innovations, such as functional or smart clothing, could boost the growth of those markets in the next future. New scenarios led productive sectors such as textiles, usually focused on traditional applications, to look for new application areas and develop new products and business strategies. In this scenario, technological innovation could play a fundamental role to guarantee healthy and active ageing to population through the development of multifunctional products for specific applications, new design concepts, along with product customization. Issues highlighted both in clothing and residential, are related to: Health and Quality of life: higher attention to human body issues such as comfort, medical assistance etc. Safety and protection: more accurate protection is needed, also because of the lengthening of working periods; Social participation: to improve social life, thanks to functional clothing suitable from an aesthetic point of view; possibility to practice sports activities in safe conditions and housing, transports and communication means able to cope with older people issues. CLOTHING Up to now, there was only one solution against climate changes, that was wearing several layers of clothing. On the contrary lightness is an essential feature today. So, the main objective should be to produce garments that act as a second skin and as a protective shield at the same time. Functionalities offered by textile materials could be gathered in 3 main fundamental areas: Comfort, Perspiration and Waterproofing; Protection; Performance. In regard of their features, innovative textile materials for clothing could be classified in 3 main categories: Functional Textiles: specific properties (transpiring membranes, antibacterial textiles, flame retardant textiles); Interactive Textiles: they react to the environment (PCM materials, Shape-memory materials, photochromic); Smart Textiles: electronic components and sensors are integrated inside the textile structure. Innovation 17 Avarage age trends of Italian Population Everyday clothing Clothing always acted as a shell for human body. However, in the course of time, properties required for clothing became more and more specific up to including today ergonomic properties, comfort and safety. Furthermore, as far as interactions with the organism are con-

20 Innovation 18 cerned, clothes are also expected to regulate temperature and wellness sensations. One of the main factor influencing quality of life is wellness offered by clothing and comfort sensations derived from wearing them. In regard of human body interactions, the skin, main vector of physical feelings, plays a fundamental role because of its direct contact with the environment. There are many physiological aspects that could involve textiles in the interaction with the skin: Hydration; Weight loss; Subcutaneous capillary circulation; Feeling transmissions; Perspiration; Sweat and bad smells; UV-rays protection. Comfort and Perspiration In any kind of activity, human body produces heat, whose excess have to be burned off through skin (90%) and breathe (10%). If heat production is higher than dispersion, sweating is increased by heat storage. Transpiration is a fundamental factor for comfort because of how human body works. When heat it reaches the skin, it is released in the form of sweat and water vapor. As far as functionality is concerned, clothing should regulate body heat, maintaining temperature at 37 degrees, along with being efficient in sweat absorption and cold feeling reduction when the activity is over. Furthermore whether waterproofing is also needed along with transpiring skills, it is necessary to develop textile systems responding to both human body needs and weather protection requirements. In this sense, laminates, doubled goods (fabrics and membranes micro-porous and hydrophilic) are the most suitable, because their structures allow vapor release and avoid rain drops penetration at the same time. Aloe Vera: antiseptic action that makes skin smoother, facilitating scar creation of little infections; Ginko biloba: anti-ageing properties, improvement of blood flux and cell oxygenation; Ginseng: regeneration and cool-down effect for stressed skin; Centella asiatica: scar generation and good care of weak capillaries and varicose veins; Green Tea: stimulant and toning up effect for skin microcirculation; Seaweed extracts: mineral and vitamin substances that keep skin fresh, tonic and smooth; Malpighia Glabra: vitamin C, with skin protection, anti-ageing and antioxidant properties. Today there are already many cosmetic goods sold on the market, such as those with anti-cellulite substances (underwear, panty hoses) whose real effects have been certified by clinic tests (a reduction of thigh circumference between 1% and 8%. Issues about energy supply Nowadays, mobile phone spread worldwide and they are often the only way to communicate with the rest of the world for old people in critical conditions. However this opportunity along with others offered by innovative technologies asks for permanent energy supply in order to guarantee function durability. Possible solutions to have available energy on the move are, for example, integrated photovoltaic-system fibers. Ermenegildo Zegna presented a coat named SOLAR-JKT, provided with solar panels in its removable neoprene collar able to power a lithium battery, positioned in a pocket, through textile cables. A set of converters allows to transmit energy to devices such as mobile phones or others with USB battery chargers. Hygiene and Bacteria proliferation Bacteria could be found everywhere in nature and heat and moisture foster severely their proliferation. Clothing fabrics are susceptible to bacteria proliferation that causes bad smells, colour alteration and skill loss (e.g. yarn elasticity and tenacity). This phenomenon is obviously in contrast with the need of hygienical freshness and wellness during any physical activity. Antimicrobial properties of antibacterial fabrics consist in fighting against microorganisms proliferation and all the related effects (e.g. bad smells). There could be bacteriostatic fabrics, that stop bacteria proliferation, and bactericide fabrics, deadly for microorganisms. Cosmetic textiles Cosmetic textiles consist in materials able to release perfumed scents, antibacterial and anti-mosquito substances, drugs against insomnia (e.g. nightwear) etc. Methods that could be employed to develop cosmetic textiles could be: - micro-encapsulation; - fabric fixing; - cyclodextrin-based systems. At the same time, there are many active principles that could be used to obtain cosmetic effects: Caffeine: draining and slimming properties, thanks to its ability to penetrate the skin and melt adipocytes; HEATLHCARE CLOTHING Antibacterial Textiles for healthcare applications In the European Union about 12,000 deaths per year are caused by infections contracted in ORs. So, there is the need to create conditions to avoid disease transmission from one patient to another. In this sense, antibacterial textiles play a fundamental role and there are many typologies that could be employed for this goal (from traditional migrant antibacterial substances (Bis Chloride Phenol, tin organic compounds, organic heavy metals compounds Pb, Hg, As, Zeolite of Cu, Ag, Chitin etc.) to non-migrant antibacterial products (functional silane compounds, N-alamine, irradiation grafting) up to silver, well-known antibacterial agent.