The plumbing basics. Sanware & Plumbing. Tools. Plumbing emergencies. Fixing a dripping tap. Replacing a tap. Fixing a leaking toilet

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1 The plumbing basics Tools Plumbing emergencies Fixing a dripping tap Replacing a tap Fixing a leaking toilet Installing a shower Replacing a kitchen sink Fitting a dishwasher or washing machine Green tips Sanware & Plumbing 1

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3 Contents Tools... 2 Plumbing emergencies... 5 Fixing a dripping tap Replacing a tap Fixing a leaking toilet Installing a shower Replacing a kitchen sink Fitting a dishwasher or washing machine Green tips

4 Tools GENERAL TOOLS PIPE WRENCH SHIFTING SPANNER When using a pipe wrench, always pull it towards you as you re less likely to damage your knuckles if it slips. BASIN WRENCH Also known as a monkey wrench or bobbejaan spanner. It is best to have two pipe wrenches in your toolbox when doing DIY plumbing. However, do not use them on nuts as you will damage them. The wrenches are designed for firmly gripping couplings and thick-walled pipes. 2 Also known as an adjustable wrench. The jaws are flat and can be used on nuts and bolts as well as copper compression fittings. Also known as a sink wrench, the jaws are perpendicular to the handle. Designed for use in awkward or small spaces.

5 SLIP-JOINT PLIERS CAULKING GUN COPPER PIPE TOOLS TUBE CUTTER Also known as water-pump pliers, the slip-joint pivot of these allows for a wider range of sizes to be gripped. TORCH Used to evenly dispense silicone, adhesive or filler. ELECTRONIC METAL DETECTOR Also known as a pipe cutter, it is used for easily cutting copper and plastic pipes to length. SOLDERING TORCH Often plumbing work needs to be done in dark spaces. Ensure you have a headlamp or torch to make the job easier. TAP WASHERS Also known as a wall scanner, it is used to detect electrical cables and water pipes behind walls so you can expose the right ones and avoid chiselling through electric cables. PLUMBER S TAPE These come in all shapes and sizes and are needed to stop taps leaking. Keep a few sizes on hand so that you can fix those leaking taps without wasting petrol on visiting the shops again. Also known as thread seal tape and PTFE tape, used to create a seal when screwing plumbing fittings together. It is wrapped around the threads on the male fitting. This differs from a soldering iron by having a live flame. Used for heating copper pipes and couplings to solder them together. (Can also be used for making crème brûlée in an emergency.) 3

6 SOLDER Soft metal wire that melts and flows when heated. Used to joint metal pipes together. FLUX Painted onto a joint before soldering, this allows the molten solder to spread evenly throughout the joint. DEBURRING TOOL SAFETY GEAR Safety glasses Long sleeves and pants are best Gloves when soldering and cutting pipes WIRE BRUSH Used for scuffing the inner surface of copper couplings before soldering them so the solder will hold fast. EMERY SPONGE SAFETY TIPS Gather all necessary tools before starting a job. Remember that water and electricity make a dangerous combination, so call in a professional to deal with jobs that involve both, such as geyser installation. Wash hands and tools thoroughly after any plumbing job involving drains and waste water. Use gloves when soldering to protect your hands from the heat of the pipe and any dripping solder. When using a soldering torch, hold the nozzle away from you and other people when lighting it. Also remember that it will remain hot after being turned off and so must be put where it can t cause harm. Molten solder behaves like a liquid and will burn any skin or clothing it comes into contact with. When soldering, always keep a fire extinguisher and a bucket of water close by to deal with emergency fires or burns. Cleans up (deburs) the cut edges of metal pipes. The same can be achieved by scraping the metal handle of pliers around the inside of the pipe. 4 A mild abrasive sponge used to clean metal before soldering. Normally used after a wire brush.

7 Plumbing emergencies BLOCKED SINK 1 PERSON HOW TO 1 HOUR SKILL What you will need: - Bucket - Plunger Using your fingers, fish out any hair or other substances you see sitting in the plug hole. 2 Empty the basin so at most it is half full and place the plunger over the plug hole. Chemical drain cleaners are handy for dealing with partial blockages. However, they are very dangerous and can cause harm if not used correctly. Never pour drain cleaner into a sink with water in it, and never use one in conjunction with a plunger. 5

8 3 If you have removed the trap under a sink or basin and need to pop out to buy more materials, plug the open drain with a damp rag to prevent any sewer gases and odours from coming into your home. Flush the pipe with water immediately after replacing the trap. 8 3 Block off the overflow, if there is one, with a damp rag. Gently force the air out of the plunger so it forms a seal around the plug hole. Pump the plunger up and down quickly five or so times and then lift it out of the sink and see if water flows down the drain. 4 Repeat step 3 as many as six times. 6 6 Place a bucket under the trap and undo it, letting any water flow into the bucket. 8 Replace the P-trap and run the taps to flush away any last bits of blockage and check for leaks. 9 9 Wash your hands and equipment well (including the plunger), and sterilise them to ensure no germs from the drain are spread in your home. 5 5 If the sink remains blocked, unscrew the S, P or U-trap under the sink with a pipe wrench Remove the trap and clean any blockage out of it and the drainpipe. Use a torch so you can see into the pipe. NOTE If you can t see what s causing the blockage, it s time to call in a professional to sort out the problem.

9 LEAKING WATER PIPE (OR NO WATER) There are many reasons for taps not producing water. You might have a leak or a burst pipe, or the mains supply might have been switched off for local municipal maintenance. But there are ways of seeing whether you can fix the problem. For one thing, you will probably notice an indoor leak before discovering you have no water. HOW TO FIND THE LEAK SAFETY GEAR Safety glasses Gloves Long sleeves 1 HOUR 1 PERSON What you will need: - Tube cutters - 2x capillary slip couplings - Wire brush SKILL - Emery sponge or cloth - Flux 1 1 Identify which taps don t have water and check the garden for any water welling around possible underground leaks. 3 3 Check your water meter to see if it is running. If it is not then the problem is on the municipal side of the meter. Call to report the fault and find out if maintenance work is being done in the area. - Soldering torch - Solder - Rag - Piece of pipe 2 2 If you cannot see a leak you can often hear one, so listen at the pipe entering the building and you might get an idea of where the leak is. 4 4 Trace your water pipes into the house, checking the ground for dampness and ensuring all shut-off valves are open. 5 5 When you find the leak, mark the spot (if not obvious), and turn off your mains water supply. 7

10 HOW TO REPAIR THE LEAK Our leak could be fixed with the insertion of a new section of pipe soldered in place. Soldering a pipe that is full of water will result in popping and crackling (due to the water boiling), and generally also a leaky joint. Where you can t empty the pipe it s advisable to use compression fittings as they don t need soldering. 1 1 Empty the water from the leaking pipe by turning on the downstream tap closest to the leak and letting it run until water stops coming out Debur both cut ends of the pipe and clean them on the outside with emery cloth Decide how best to repair the pipe -- either with a new section, by creating a joint at the leak, or by installing a shut-off valve. 3 Using tube cutters, cut through the pipe on either side of the leak and remove the leaky section. Water might still come out of the pipe. Dry it off. If water continues to drip from it, then ball up some bread and shove it into the pipe to absorb the water while you continue working. REMEMBER YOU WILL HAVE TO TURN ON THE WATER TO WASH OUT THE BREAD BEFORE CONNECTING THE SECOND INLINE CONNECTOR. 5 5 Cut a new piece of pipe the size of the section you have removed. Clean and debur each end of it to receive the inline connectors.

11 6 8 6 Clean the insides of both ends of each connector with emery paper wrapped around your little finger. 8 Insert the new pipe with connectors into the gap and slide the connectors onto the existing pipe to joint everything together. Ensure that you use the correct connector and not regular couplings, which won t slide completely onto the pipe. Make sure the original pipe ends are fully inserted into the connectors. To make this easier, mark the pipe with a pen at the correct depth. 7 7 Apply 20 mm of flux to the outsides of both ends of the new piece of pipe and push the connectors onto them, using a twisting motion to spread the flux evenly. Spread flux onto the two ends of the cut pipe as well. 9 9 Unroll 20 cm of solder and bend a hook into the end. This is so you will be able to melt about 2 cm of solder into each joint Light your soldering torch (with the gas turned low), making sure it faces away from all flammable objects and people. If there is a dry wall or wooden cupboard behind the part you are heating, place fireproof cloth behind the pipe to prevent the flame from damaging it. 9

12 Practise soldering using a piece of scrap pipe before embarking on this procedure if you have never done it before Heat the fitting and pipe and try to avoid burning the flux (as it will prevent the joint from sealing).touch the end of the solder to the joint until it begins to melt. Remove the flame and press the solder onto the joint until about 2 cm has been drawn into it Before it solidifies, wipe away any excess solder and flux with a dry rag. But be careful: the pipe and solder will be hot Repeat for both sides of both connectors When this is done properly, the solder should spread around the joint leaving a small visible bead. 15 Let the pipe cool completely before turning on the water and checking for leaks around your joint.

13 BURST GEYSER Water is pouring through your house. Your carpets are ruined, your wood is swelling. What is the first thing you should do when your geyser bursts? 1 HOUR 1 PERSON SKILL HOW TO Don t forget to have your homeowner s insurance policy number handy. 1 1 Turn off the main household electrical switch (usually found on your distribution board, often in the kitchen or passage) and turn off the water mains (or the shut-off valve that feeds the geyser). 5 Phone your insurance company to find out if they have recommended geyser repairers and phone the professionals to come and sort it out. Geysers use both water and electricity so it is best to get experts in to solve the problem. 2 Move children and animals to a safe place Open all your hot water taps to help empty the geyser and stop further water damage. 4 4 Lay towels around the edge of the flooded area to prevent the water from spreading further. 6 Take pictures for insurance purposes and clean up the water. Open windows and doors to help with evaporation. 7 Remember to shut off your hot water taps before turning the mains water on again after the geyser has been fixed. 11

14 Fixing a dripping tap HOW TO 1 PERSON HOUR SKILL What you will need: - Shifting spanner - Cloth - Screwdriver (old one) 1 Turn off the water to the dripping tap and turn on the tap to release any water in the system. Leave the tap open When water stops flowing out of the tap, plug the hole in the sink/basin to prevent losing small items down the drain, and place an old towel in the sink to prevent it from being damaged by dropped tools. - Water pump pliers - Washer or washerand-jumper unit, or washer and seating set - Scouring pad

15 3 5 3 Expose the screw holding the handle of the tap in place by levering off the hot/cold button and undo it to remove the handle. 5 Using a spanner, undo the nut around the headpiece assembly, holding the tap body firmly as you do so to prevent it from turning on the basin (which could cause other leaks) Cover the nose of your spanner with tape so it won t scratch the finish on your tap. 6 Remove the part holding the washer (tap jumper). Unscrew the nut holding the washer in place using water pump pliers. Make sure no pieces of old washer are left in the body of the tap. Give the whole assembly a rub with a scouring pad to remove any debris sitting on the thread. 13

16 If the washer seat is pitted you should fix it with a reseating tool. Alternatively, replace the tap. 7 7 Fit the new washer and replace and tighten the nut holding it to the jumper. 9 9 Close the tap and turn on the water supply. Before opening the tap, see if the leak has stopped, then test to see if water comes out of the tap. cold button Place the jumper back in the headpiece assembly and replace this in the tap body. Tighten it in place with a spanner. Refit the handle and tighten the nut/screw that holds it in place Replace the hot/cold button.

17 Replacing a tap HOW TO 1 PERSON HOUR SKILL What you will need: - New tap - Flexi connector - Plumber s tape - Plumber s putty - Plumber s wrench 1 1 Turn off the water to the tap and lay a towel in the basin to protect it from your tools. Put a bucket under where you ll be working. - Shifting spanner - Basin wrench - Rag 15

18 Disconnect the flexi connector supplying water to the tap and let any water run into the bucket. 5 Place a roll of plumber s putty around the inner edge of the base of the tap (to prevent water leaking past it into the cupboard below) and position the tap on the basin. 8 Turn on the water supply and test the tap for leaks Using the basin wrench, unscrew the nut under the basin that holds the tap in place and remove the tap (you might need to lever it off its seating with a screwdriver). 6 Fasten it to the basin via the nut underneath, using the basin wrench to tighten it well. 9 Wipe any excess plumber s putty away Assemble the new tap as per the manufacturer s instructions and make sure it fits in the hole in the basin. 7 7 Attach the flexi connector to the tap inlet. Make sure that the nut is tight as the connector uses a rubber washer to make a seal (no need for plumber s tape here). If you are replacing a hot water tap, with luck you ll find a shut-off valve between it and the geyser. If you don t, then you will have to shut off the water supply to the geyser. Don t worry about switching off the electricity because the geyser will never drain completely. Just open the hot water tap and wait till it stops running.

19 Fixing a leaking toilet LEAKING INTO THE BOWL Toilet cisterns used to overflow through a pipe that led outdoors, so it was obvious when they were leaking. Modern cisterns overflow into the toilet bowl. This is a great advancement but means you could be wasting water (and therefore money) by not noticing and fixing a leaking toilet. Look into your toilet bowl. If water is dribbling down the sides and you haven t recently flushed it, then you have a leak. HOW TO 1 HOUR 1 PERSON 1 What you will need: - Screwdriver 3 5 SKILL 1 Remove the lid of the cistern. 2 2 Check your float. This is linked to the inlet valve and controls the level of the water in the cistern. If you have a leak, the water level could be too high, in which case all you need to do is get the float to close the inlet valve at a lower water level. Is this the case? To find out, lift the float slightly and gently. If water stops flowing into the cistern, it is. 17

20 LEAKING FROM THE OUTLET PIPE If water is dripping down the back of the toilet or there are brown stains down the back, then you might need to replace the wax seal between the toilet and the outlet pipe. This is an unpleasant job but easy and quick to do. HOW TO 1 PERSON HOUR SKILL What you will need: - Bucket - Cup - Wax seal 1 Give your toilet a good clean and sterilise it. 2 There is no need to switch off any valves because you will be working on the outlet, just don t flush the toilet while you are busy. - Cleaner - Paper towels - Clean cloths 3 3 Using a screwdriver, tighten the screw above the float so that it closes the inlet valve sooner (you might have to flush and refill the cistern a couple of times before you get it right). 4 With the cistern full, test the float by pushing it down slightly. Water should spray into the cistern. Release the float and it should stop. Once this has been achieved you will have fixed your leaking toilet Put an old towel under the joint to catch any dripping water and minimise the amount of clean up. 4 4 Pull out the old seal try and get all of it out. If you are unable to, then use the bits left behind to provide extra sealing. Just don t leave any discoloured, saturated wax in there as it won t seal well.

21 SAFETY GEAR 5 5 Dry the area thoroughly with an old cloth. Rubber gloves To finish the seal off neatly, pour some soap on your hands and wipe them over the wax to smooth it. This will also help with cleaning your hands afterwards Gently break the new wax seal and pack it around the joint. This can get quite messy but make sure the wax is packed in firmly all the way around and there are no gaps. 8 Flush the toilet and check for leaks. If there is one, remould the wax to fill the gap. 9 Wash all your equipment well and sterilise it with Dettol. 7 7 Wipe excess wax off with paper towels and remove any that got onto the outside of the pipe or toilet with a detergent. If the gap between the toilet and the outlet pipe is big, roll up some old newspaper and use it to caulk the gap so you don t waste too much wax. 19

22 Installing a shower HOW TO What you will need: 2 DAYS 2 PEOPLE 1 3 SKILL 5 - Shower tray - Shower doors - Shower taps - Silicone sealer - Chisel (if taking off tiles) - Shifting spanner - Sugar soap 1 Plan what you want to keep from the old shower in the way of pipes and fittings and decide whether you need to change their position Take out the old fittings and gut the area. We removed the shower base (which was built in), wall tiles and fittings. - Sandpaper - Paint and roller - Shower head - Pipe wrench - Plumber s tape

23 3 3 Reroute pipes where necessary, chasing them into the walls. Expose old chased pipes in order to move fittings. CHASING PIPES 4 4 Remember to plug any open drains so you don t end up inadvertently flooding your bathroom when using other showers and baths in the house. FITTING THE TAPS If you are just updating the look of your taps, you might be able to avoid exposing the previously chased pipes. All that might be necessary is to clean and dry the threads on the pipes, wrap plumber s tape around them to seal the connections, and then screw on your new fittings. This is when you hide the pipes below the surface of the wall. Use an angle grinder to define the edges of the chase channel, and a chisel and hammer to quarry out the channel. Put together as much of the pipework as possible before placing it into the channel. Once it s connected, remember to check it thoroughly for leaks before plastering over the pipes and using a steel float to create a smooth finish for painting or tiling. Before you tile or paint the walls (and base, if concrete) make sure you ve sealed them with a bonding liquid or sealing agent. However, if you are changing the type of tap, you might need to expose previously chased pipes in order to change the fittings on them and/ or create more space for the new taps. Once these are installed, check for leaks before plastering and smoothing the wall. 21

24 SHOWER TRAY AND DRAIN WALL COVERING 5 5 Plan the height above the floor you want your shower tray to stand and install the P-trap to the drainpipe and then the washer and connectors so that everything is in position for the tray. 8 8 We chose to tile the area with standard white tiles and white grout. If you have a smooth wall you can use Plascon s Bathrooms & Kitchens paint instead of tiling. FITTING YOUR SHOWER HEAD 6 6 Stuff a wet rag into the drain to prevent any debris from falling into and blocking your waste water pipes. 9 9 Clean and dry the shower arm projecting from the wall Position the tray in place and fit the waste outlet to the tray along with the rubber pipe that came with the tray Assemble the shower head according to the instructions that come with it. 11 Wrap plumber s tape clockwise around the thread on the shower arm. Make sure to wrap it on tightly so that it sinks into the threads and to use an unbroken piece of tape.

25 INSTALL SHOWER CUBICLE Screw the new shower head onto the arm. 15 A shower nozzle should be 2 m to 2.1 m above the tray, depending on the height of the tallest family member. 15 Construct the frame as per the manufacturer s instructions and place glass into the seal Direct the head away from you and into a bucket and test to see if you have sealed the joint fully and whether the shower head is working well. 14 If there is a leak at the joint, use a cloth and spanner to tighten the head more. 16 Position the complete cubicle on the shower tray with the doors closed to ensure it fits well. You might need help holding it in place. 23

26 SEALING YOUR CUBICLE Wrap tape around the nose of your wrench to prevent it from scratching new fittings Place one of the frame sections on the one wall, resting it on the corner of the shower tray, and mark where you need to drill holes in the wall to secure it. Drill and secure with wall plugs and screws. Repeat on the other wall Use anit-mould silicone sealer to seal along all edges and around all corners, smooth off bead with a finger. Make sure you seal between tiles and tray and the tiles and cubicle to create a watertight enclosure. REROUTING PIPING Choose the shortest run for the pipes and use the straightest course to prevent heat and pressure loss. Make sure that you do not bypass any crucial valves, such as pressure reducing valves, as if you do it will be dangerous and could damage your geyser Screw the shower door hinge into place and check that the door lines up with the magnetic closing strip before tightening completely Remove the wet rag from the drain and silicone edges in the drain. Screw the outlet strainer into place. For safety, try to route the cold water pipe from as close to the mains as possible. If you don t, other people using cold water in the house will affect the temperature of your shower. Someone flushing a toilet could even lead to the person in the shower being scalded. The routeing of the hot water pipe is not as important, for if someone else uses hot water it will only mean your shower running colder, which is a comfort issue but not unsafe.

27 Replacing a kitchen sink HOW TO REMOVE THE OLD SINK 4 HOURS 5 2 PEOPLE 3 1 SKILL - New sink What you will need: 2 SAFETY GEAR Safety glasses Close the hot and cold shut-off valves and turn on the taps to release pressure and ensure the water is off. 3 Place bucket under supply line for water run out. - Taps - Water supply lines - Plumber s putty/ silicone - Plumber s tape - Torch - Rags - Bucket 1 1 Take out everything (chemicals and detergents) from under the sink. Put them out of reach of children and pets. If your sink has a few small rust spots, use inox cream to polish them away and you won t have to replace the whole sink. - Pipe wrench x2 - Basin wrench - Pliers - Drain connection: pipe, washers, slip nut, T-piece, P-trap, wall outlet connector, elbow piece 25

28 Use two pipe wrenches to release the compression fittings for both the hot and cold taps. 6 Inside the cupboard, use a torch to see and unscrew the sink from the cupboard. 7 Use a blade to cut through any sealant between the sink and the countertop. 8 8 Get some help to lift the sink off the counter, one person lifting from the top and the other pushing from inside the cupboard, if necessary. 5 5 Use pliers to disconnect the drainpipe and P-trap from the sink outlet. Water will flow out, so have the bucket handy. Remove any dishwasher or washing machine pipes. If you are replacing the piping, remove the old piping completely and block the drainpipe through the wall with a wet rag to prevent any sewer gases from coming into your kitchen Clean up the edges of the countertop and wall and if necessary cut a larger hole for the new sink to fit in.

29 FITTING THE NEW DRAINPIPE 1O 10 Apply a roll of plumber s putty around the outlet hole on the inside of the sink and position the new waste outlet fitting firmly on the putty Place the sink on its side and tightly secure the fitting to the bottom of the sink, using the rubber gasket and flanged nut. 14 The drainage system must be planned according to where your main drain is. Construct as much of it as possible before fitting the sink into the counter, as working space will be limited in the cupboard. Attach most of it onto the sink before you install the sink. 12 Repeat the process for the second sink Remove excess putty from around both fittings using a cloth. 15 Attach a washer, slip nut and tailpiece to the pipe for each sink, then join them via a T-piece. Attach a P-trap to the bottom of the T-piece and route the pipe to the wall outlet. 27

30 FITTING THE TAP INSTALLING THE NEW SINK Assemble the mixer unit as per the manufacturer s instructions and wrap plumber s tape around the threads where it will be connected to the hot and cold inlet pipes Place the sink into the hole left by the old one Position the mixer on the sink. You might need to cut a hole in the sink if there isn t one you could use a hole saw designed for metal, or a chassis punch. 19 Remove excess putty Fasten mixer to the sink using a basin wrench to tighten the nut well Be very careful of stainless steel edges they can be extremely sharp. Wear gloves whenever possible. 21 Screw extra struts in place to create a good solid frame for the sink and slide it into place. You might need some help to do this with ease. You could add adhesive to the frame before putting the sink in place.

31 HOOKING UP THE WATER CONNECTING THE DRAIN flexible pipe Attach the supply lines to the connector pipes of the mixer using a compression fitting on each line If you have trouble lining up the P-trap and wall outlet you could buy a flexible pipe to join the two pieces. Before joining them, remove the wet rag from the pipe through the wall. 26 Run the water to check for leaks Place a container under the mixer and turn on the hot and cold water to check for leaks. 25 Seal the gaps between the sink and the counter with silicone, wiping the sealant smooth to complete the seal and provide a neat finish. 29

32 Fitting a dishwasher or washing machine HOW TO 1 PERSON HOUR SKILL What you will need: - Flexible water line - Reducer - Hose clamp 1 1 Identify the closest cold water tap and drain. 2 Screw the feeder pipe onto the back of the washing machine. 30

33 3 5 3 Attach the other end to the tap. The tap should have a thread, if not you might need to replace it with one that does. The pipe is usually designed to be attached without the use of tools. 5 Turn on the tap to the washing machine, set it on the rinse cycle and test for leaks. Fit a reducer between your drainpipe and washing machine outlet and never worry about a flooded kitchen again. 4 4 Attach the pipe holder and place the end into the drain. Cable tie in place. 31

34 Green tips Lower your geyser temperature to save on electricity costs. Although geysers come well insulated, extra insulation helps them retain the heat even longer and so reduce your energy costs. Minimise evaporation of irrigation water by using a drip system instead of a sprinkler system. Insulate all your hot water pipes, both outside the house and in the ceiling. This is an additional way to save you electricity. If your pipes are chased into the walls, the next best thing is to insulate at least three metres of them, starting at the geyser. 32 Only wash full loads in your washing machine. Use a cold wash cycle in your washing machine to save on electricity costs. A dishwasher is more waterefficient than hand washing, but only when it has a full load. Don t let the tap run while you brush your teeth, you will waste 6-8 litres of water. Don t let the shower run while you are washing your hair. Taking a shower is more water-efficient than having a bath as long as you don t spend a long time in the shower. Change your shower rose for one with a restrictor. This will allow you to enjoy your shower while using less water. Modern toilet cisterns are much smaller than older ones. If you still have a large cistern, wrap a brick or large stone in plastic and gently place it in the cistern. Less water will now be needed to fill it, meaning you ll use less water to flush the loo too. Install a dual-flush mechanism in your cistern. There are many times when only a half-flush is adequate.

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36 Disclaimer Builders booklets, DVD s and other guides are provided strictly for informational purposes only. The information contained herein is intended to provide general information with regard to simple DIY projects. As products, laws and regulations are continually changing, Builders takes no responsibility for the accuracy of information contained herein or any liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any project. It is the responsibility of the viewer/reader to ensure compliance with all applicable laws, rules, codes and regulations as the case may be. Safety is important, make sure to take proper safety precautions and exercise caution when taking on any DIY project. Always read the manufacturer s instructions and heed their guidance for using their product. Certain products or materials may only be available at selected Builders stores. If there is any doubt regarding any element of a DIY project please consult a professional. Builders cannot be held liable for any loss, damage or injury that may result out of the use of the Builders booklets, DVD s and other guides. Edible gardening Gardening essentials Designing your garden Painting outside your home Flooring solutions Tiling your walls Securing your home The plumbing basics Lighting Keeping a lush lawn Painting the inside of your home Decorating a feature wall Swimming pool care Choosing the right tools Weekend DIY projects ALSO IN THE RANGE 34

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