Facts and figures on the

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1 Facts and figures on the ethical fashion market WearFair Fashion Summit 2010 Johannes Heiml, Südwind Agency (Austria)

2 overview environmental issues of conventional production social issues of conventional production facts and figures on the ethical fashion market new survey on the demand for ethical fashion global facts organic cotton global and national facts fairtrade certified cotton certificates and the clean clothes campaign

3 environmental issues Global acreage of cotton: 3 % But: approx. 25 % of worldwide used insecticide and pesticides used on cotton Conventional T-Shirt: 150 gram (e.g. Endosulfan) WHO: 20,000 die of self poisoning with pesticides every year For the production of 1 kg cotton l water are necessary sources: Handbuch ecofashion -Mode mit Zukunft by Umweltberatung and Saubere Sachen by Kirsten Brodde

4 environmental issues a piece of clothing made with cotton from the USA mixed with polyester from the Far East woven in Germany cut in Tunisia sold in Germany travelled km = 3 earth circulations source: ENQUETE-KOMMISSION: Zum Schutz des Menschen und der Umwelt des deutschen Bundestages. 1994

5 social issues in the global garment industry 70 or more working hours a week extreme low salaries violation of the fundamental right to associate freely and bargain collectively working hours a day without any breaks child labour are everyday business

6 social issues How much of the money I spend for a T-Shirt trickles down to workers? 40 % retailer 20 % taxes 18 % brand, marketing 5 % transport 16 % factory 1 % workers wages source: Clean Clothes Campaign

7 social issues

8 social issues China: Chinese textile workers earn in average only 47% of what they would need for a decent living That means that they can not pay for their basic need, such as food, shelter, clothing and education

9 Bangladesh social issues minimum wage: Taka/month (approx. 18 Euro) until recently Costs for the nutrition of one person: Taka (approx Euro) Since 2006 prices for food at least doubled New minimum wage: 3000 Taka (approx. 33 Euro) Living wage in Bangladesh: 5000 Taka (approx. 55 Euro) Nurun Nahar is having lunch with her family in this small room. Dhaka, Bangladesh.

10 social issues source: Würdige Löhne über Grenzen hinweg Der asiatische Grundlohn, S. 11.

11 Facts on ethical fashion Survey on the demand for ethical fashion Results: 2/3 of Austrian population: social and environmentally friendly production is important 31 % even very important 50 % are willing to pay more for ethical fashion but: lack of information! faith in independent certificates and nongovernmental organisations Details: presseaussendungen

12 Organic cotton: Facts on ethical fashion global production 2009: t share of global cotton production: 0,76 % global retail sales 2009: $ 4.3 billion (+ 38% 2008) forcast 2010: $5.1 billion forcast 2011: $6.0 billion since 2001: 40 % average annual growth rate source: Organic Cotton Market Report 2009, Organic Exchange

13 Facts on ethical fashion source: Organic Cotton Market Report 2009, Organic Exchange

14 Facts on ethical fashion source: Organic Cotton Market Report 2009, Organic Exchange

15 Facts on ethical fashion 2009: C&A sold18 million pieces of clothing made of organic cotton forcast 2010: 23 million H&M processed 8,500 t organic cotton (2009) farmers in 22 countries grow organic cotton

16 Facts on ethical fashion Fairtrade certified cotton available since 2005 global production 2009: t share of global cotton production: 0,12 % global production of FT cotton = 37% organic 2009: sales in Austria: 2.5 million Euros sales in Switzerland: 12.5 million Euros (90 % organic) sales in Germany: 2 Million items (+140 %) source: Fairtrade Austria, Transfair Germany

17 Certificates Facts on ethical fashion trend to certificates that certify independently the whole supply chain (social + environmental criteria) Example: global organic textile standard Between 2008 and mid 2010 numbers of certified companies gone up quickly: From 26 to 2800

18 Facts on ethical fashion Approach of Clean Clothes Campaign Instead of certifying products or single products lines/collections holistic approach: Full Package Approach to Labour Codes of Conduct some companies are meeting these expectations better than others source:

19

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