İstanbul. All you ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLANET

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1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd İstanbul ll you ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLNET THIS EDITION WRITTEN ND RESERCHED Y Virginia Maxwell

2 Contents Plan Your Trip page Welcome to İstanbul... İstanbul s Top What's New... Need to Know... Top Itineraries... 6 If You Like...8 Month by Month... With Kids... Like a Local... For Free... 5 Eating... 6 Drinking & Nightlife... Shopping... Hamams & Spas... 8 Explore İstanbul 0 Neighbourhoods at a Glance... Sultanahmet & round... azaar District... 8 Western Districts...0 eyoğlu... eşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme...9 Üsküdar...6 Ferry Trips from İstanbul...50 Sleeping...65 Understand İstanbul 75 İstanbul Today...76 History...78 rchitecture...86 İstanbul on Page & Screen...9 Survival Guide 97 Transport Directory Z... 0 Language Index... 9 İstanbul Maps 8

3 IZZET KERIR GEORGE TSFOS/GETTY IMGES (left) Grand azaar p85 Colourful lamps for sale (above) eyoğlu p Traditional meyhane (Turkish tavern) (right) ya Sofya p6 Colourful decoration inside GEORGE TSFOS/GETTY IMGES eşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme p9 Western Districts p0 eyoğlu p Üsküdar p6 azaar District p8 Sultanahmet & round p

4 0 Explore İstanbul IZZET KERIR/GETTY IMGES Neighbourhoods at a Glance Sultanahmet & round Top Sights Sights Eating Drinking & Nightlife Entertainment Shopping ctivities azaar District Top Sights Sights Eating Drinking & Nightlife Shopping ctivities Western Districts... 0 Top Sights Sights Eating & Drinking eyoğlu Top Sights Sights Eating Drinking & Nightlife Entertainment Shopping ctivities eşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme Top Sights Sights Eating Drinking & Nightlife Entertainment Shopping ctivities Üsküdar Sights Eating & Drinking Ferry Trips from İstanbul The osphorus The Golden Horn Princes Islands Sleeping

5 İSTNUL S TOP SIGHTS ya Sofya Topkapı Palace lue Mosque Istanbul rchaeology Museums asilica Cistern Grand azaar Süleymaniye Mosque Spice azaar Kariye Museum (Chora Church) İstiklal desi İstanbul Modern Dolmabahçe Palace eylerbeyi Palace Hıdiv Kasrı Rahmi M Koç Museum ya Sofya... 6 Topkapı Palace...5 lue Mosque... 6 Istanbul rchaeology Museums asilica Cistern Grand azaar...85 Süleymaniye Mosque Spice azaar Karİye Museum (Chora Church)...0 İstiklal desi...5 İstanbul Modern...6 Dolmabahçe Palace...

6 8 İstanbul Maps Map Legend Sights each uddhist Castle Christian Hindu Islamic Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery Ruin Winery/Vineyard Zoo Other Sight Eating Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Sleeping Sleeping Camping Sports & ctivities Diving/Snorkelling Canoeing/Kayaking iing Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Sports & ctivities Information Post Office Tourist Information Transport irport order Crossing us Cable Car/Funicular Cycling Ferry Monorail Parking S-ahn Taxi Train/Railway Tram Tube Station U-ahn Underground Train Station Other Transport Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed Road Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian Overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour Detour Path oundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Geographic Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic rea Waterfall Hydrography River/Creek Intermittent River Swamp/Mangrove Reef Canal Water Dry/Salt/ Intermittent Lake Glacier reas each/desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Park/Forest Sportsground Sight (uilding) Top Sight (uilding)

7 OKMEYDNI NIŞNTŞı ORTKÖY 9 KURTULUŞ Yıldız Park Feriköy Mezarlığı OZKURT YİLDİZ HRIYE EŞİKTŞ Maçka Park Ð" ELMDĞ PİYLEPŞ Ð" TRLŞI ÇUKURCUM HCİ HESN HTUN EYOĞLU Ð" GLT ÜSKÜDR SLCK KEFÇEDEDE İHSNİYE osphorus Strait (oğaziçi) Golden Horn (Haliç) KRKÖY MP INDEX THTKLE Ð"7 Sultanahmet & round North (p) SEİMİYE SÜLEYMNİYE LLELİ KUMKPI MEYDNı 00 Sultanahmet Park Sultanahmet & round South (p) azaar District (p8) eyoğlu Northeast (p) HLICIOĞLU HSKÖY Musevı Mezarlığı CĞLOĞLU KDIRG LT HIZIR ÇVUŞ FENER FTıH KSRY Saraçhane Park Karaca hmet Sea of Marmara (Marmara Denizi) Ð"8 Ð"5 Ð" Ð"6 0 km 0 mile #e 5 eyoğlu Southwest (p) 6 eşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme (p9) 7 Western Districts (p0) 8 Üsküdar (p6) 9 Kariye Museum (p0)

8 0 C #e 0 00 m 0 0. miles D SULTNHMET & ROUND - NORTH osphorus Excursion Ferry f# f# Ferries to Üsküdar f# Ferries to Kadıköy # Eminönü f# Car Ferry to Harem Yalı Köşkü Ca d SİRKECİ # ú Sirkeci # #ï Sirkeci Railway # #ò 0# ú æ# Station # ú ß# Hocapaşa Mosque # ú Hamidiye şir Efendi Cemal Nadir İstanbul Erkek Lisesi Türkocaǧı Cağaloğlu Meydanı # ú 5 ab-ı li nkara CĞLOĞLU Çatal Çe şme Resadiye Molla Feneri nkara 9 0 #Ø Ticarethane LEMDR # Sultanahmet # û 6 Nöbethane Hüdavendigar Ebussuud Hükümet Konağı 8 æ# layköşkü Yerebatan 9 # ú 6 5 # Gülhane asilica æ# Cistern lemdar Kennedy İstasyon rkasi # Children's Playground æ# Gülhane Park İstanbul rchaeology Museums Topkapı Palace Court of Janissaries (First Court) # 8 æ# # ú 7 ya 5 æ# Sofya æ# Golden Horn (Haliç) (Sahil Yolu) C V# Topkapı Palace Sarayburnu æ# Seraglio Point (Sarayburnu) 7 ü# osphorus (oğaziçi) æ Top Sights (p000) (p6) ú Eating (p000) (p76) Ø Sports & ctivities (p000) (p8) ya Sofya... Caferağa Medresesi 8 ya İrini...C asilica Cistern... Lokanta & Çay 9 Cağaloğlu Hamamı... İstanbul rchaeology ahçesi... (see ) Museums... C 9 Cihannüma... ÿ Sleeping (p000) (p68) Topkapı Palace... C 0 Fasuli Lokantaları... 0 gora Life Hotel... Hafız Mustafa...(see 0) nd Hotel...(see 9) æ Sights (p000) (p69) Hocapaşa Pidecisi... yasofya Konakları...C lay Köşkü... Karakol Restaurant...C Cheers Hostel... Caferağa Medresesi... Konyalı Lokantası... Neorion Hotel... Fountain of Sultan Matbah... (see ) Ottoman Hotel hmet III...C Paşazade... Imperial... Gülhane Park... 5 Sefa Restaurant... 5 Sirkeci Konak... 5 Imperial Gate...C 6 İstanbul Museum of û Drinking & Nightlife(p000) (p80) the History of 6 Kybele Cafe... Science & 7 Set Üstü Çay ahçesi... D Technology in Islam... ý Entertainment (p000) (p80) 7 Soğukçeşme Sokak... C Hocapaşa Culture 8 Sublime Porte... Centre...(see ) D

9 SULTNHMET & ROUND - SOUTH Map on p æ Top Sights (p6) Cocoon...D5 lue Mosque... D Galeri Kayseri... Iznik Classics & Tiles... E æ Sights (p69) Jennifer's Hamam... E5 ya Sofya Tombs... F 5 Khaftan...C5 Great Palace Mosaic Museum...E5 6 Mehmet Çetinkaya Gallery...D5 Hippodrome...C 7 Tulu... Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain...D 8 Yilmaz Ipekçilik...H 5 Lâle Pastanesi (Pudding Shop)...D 6 Little ya Sofya...6 Ø Sports & ctivities (p8) 7 Marmara University Republican 9 mbassador Spa... D Museum... 0 yasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı... F 8 Museum of Turkish & Islamic rts...c İstanbul Walks... C5 9 Nakkaş...C5 Les rts Turcs... D 0 Obelisk of Theodosius...C Müzenin Kahvesi...(see 8) Rough-Stone Obelisk...C Urban dventures... D Sokollu Şehit Mehmet Paşa Mosque... Sphendone...C5 ÿ Sleeping (p68) Spiral Column...C cra Hotel... F5 5 Tomb of Sultan hmet I...D 5 ahaus Hostel... F 6 Dersaadet Hotel...D6 ú Eating (p76) 7 Emine Sultan Hotel...D6 6 hırkapı alıkçısı... F6 8 Erten Konak... E6 7 alıkçı Sabahattin...G5 9 Grand Peninsula...G 8 Çiğdem Pastanesi Hanedan Hotel...G 9 Cooking laturka... F5 5 Hotel lp...g 0 Hafız Mustafa...D 5 Hotel Empress Zoe...G Karadeniz ile Pide ve Kebap Salonu... C 5 Hotel Ibrahim Pasha... Teras Restaurant... H5 Hotel Nomade...(see 6) 5 Hotel Peninsula...G û Drinking & Nightlife (p79) 55 Hotel Şebnem...G Cafe Meşale...E 56 Hotel Uyan İstanbul... F Denizen Coffee Marmara Guesthouse...G 5 Derviş ile Çay ahçesi...e 58 Metropolis Hostel...G 6 Hotel Nomade Terrace ar... D 59 Motif partments...g 7 Yeni Marmara...C6 60 Sarı Konak Hotel... F5 8 Yeşil Ev... F 6 Sultans Royal Hotel...C6 6 Tan Hotel...C þ Shopping (p80) 9 rasta azaar...e 0 Cankurtaran Produce Market...C5 SULTNHMET & ROUND - SOUTH

10 Key on p C D SULTNHMET & ROUND - SOUTH 5 ÇEMERLİTŞ Göktaş Kat oyaci hmet Özbekler ß# Türbedar Piyer Loti Peykhane ip Sinan Cami Şehit Mehmet Paşa Ka d Dizdariye Yokuşu ır ga Limanı ab-ı li Divan Yolu (Ordu) Klodfarer Dizdariye Çeşmesi Su Terazisi inbirdirek æ# Cistern abayani ü# Kasap Osman Çatal Çeşme Dr Şevkibey Terzihane Şehit Mehmet Paşa Yokuşu Işık Law Courts İmran Öktem 7 LEMDR 6 İNİRDİREK # á #ä Nakilbent Sultanahmet # 8 # á 0 # á 0 # æ9 tmeydanı 5 Ticarethane # # #Ø û# 6 9 # Tavukhane tmeydanı # æ5 0 # æ lue ß# Mosque 6 # ï # #ô 5 # æ 6 Küçuk ya s o f y a Cami KÜÇÜK YSOFY ß# 6 Kaleci kburçak ksakal Küçük yasofya Çayıroğlu Gelinlik Mustafapaşa 6 ü# 7 Şifa Hamamı Yeğen Oğul 6 7 Tomurc uk Kapıağası ostan rkası ucoleon Palace 7 Kennedy (Sahil Yolu) C D

11 E F #e 0 00 m 0 0. miles G H Yerebatan SULTNHMET ü# þ# #â Şeftali Sultanahmet Park þ# 9 Torun lemdar þ# rasta azaar 5 ü# kbıyık Değirmeni Caferiye 8 ya Sofya Meydanı 0#Ø # û 8 Utangaç 9# ú Tevkifhane 56 Seyithasan Mimar Mehmet ğa ya Sofya miral Tafdil #æ Sultanahmet #ä rchaeological Park (under restoration) Kabasakal 5 ÿ # 60 Cankurtaran 6 kbıyık # ú Mosque ß# Kutlugün 9 ayramfirini hırkapı 7 # ú dliye Terb kbıyık Soğukçeşme Çetinkaya 5 Ishak Paşa Mosque ß# ıyı k Keresteci Hakkı Yenigün İshakpaşa Y e ni Saraçh ane # ú CNKURTRN 8 # Cankurtaran 5 6 SULTNHMET & ROUND - SOUTH Oyuncu osphorus (oğaziçi) 7 E F G H

12 Kazlı Mescit Z R DISTR # æ m #e 0 0. miles Zeyrek Mehmet Paşa Yeni kıl İtfaıye ZEYREK Revani Çelebi Islah Şehzadebaşı ğa Yokuşu zep skeri ß# Fevziye Himmet 6 # û KLENDERHNE Gençtürk Laleli- LLELİ Üniversite # Laleli Mesih Paşa NIŞNC zimkar Langa Hisar sya Dede Efendi tatürk ul Hacı Kadın Im a Müşküle Delikanlı Zeynep Kamil Kurultay Şair Haşmet Koska İsmail Sefa Vefa Hayriye Tüccarı Katip Kasım Camii VEF UNKPNİ LN Ğ lişan r et Sabunh a n Vefa Türbesi # æ ß# Molla Süleymaniye # ü Gürani Mosque Mosque 5 # ú ß# # ú 5 # æ MOLL HÜSREV Cemal Yener Tosyalı Vezneciler Yahni Kapan Divan Yolu (Ordu) İkbal Şehnameci Nişanca ostan Molla Taşı Kenanbey ltamataşı Mehmet Paşa Yok uşu HOC GIYSETTİN Library of tıf Efendı Vefa SÜLEYMNİYE Nişanca Yokuşu Şarapnel MabeyinçiY o ku şu Şemsettin esim Ömer Kazancılar Süleymaniye # ú # ú # ú # ü 7 8 w 0 # ü # æ # ú eyazıt Meydanı ß# Grand 00 # æ azaar ï# # ú 6 #. 8 # # ü eyazıt- Kapalı Çarşı S Paşa Soğanağa Camii Türkeli Saraç # Kumkapı Ragıp Gümüşpala # æ 9 akırcılar # æ w Tatlı Kuyu Hamamı Kumkapı Hanı Telli Odalar abayiǧit Kıb Hayriye Hanim DEMİRTŞ Fetva Yokuşu buhayat ıshak le Çeşme Mimar Sinan Prof Sıddık Sami Onar KUMKPI C rayıcı C Çapariz Siyavuşpaşa Fuat Paşa Golden Horn Havancı Nargileci Tiyatro Prof Cemil irsel Tatlı Kuyu smalı Han (Haliç) Vasif Çınar Semaver Çilavcı Üstad rapzade. SRIDEMİR Gedikpaşa Tüğcü KDIRG MERCN Ragıp Gümüşpala ß# # ü RÜSTEM PŞ 0# ú 6 # ú 6 5 #â #Ø 58 GEDİK PŞ Sarayiçi icı Neviye D Golden Horn (Haliç) İskelesi # Marpuççular THTKLE Sabuncu Hanı arkçılar Çakmakçılar Yokuşu Kadirga Meydani ŞEHSUVREY Tarakçılar ileyc iler Ç 0 Doğramacı D Emin Sinan Piyer Loti #ò 59 #ÿ

13 5 Turyol Ferries to Kadıköy & Üsküdar # f # f # f # ü # æ # ß Spice azaar # æ EMİNÖNÜ 9 55 Mahmutpaşa Yokuşu 0 00 Tarakçi Cafer e zc iler 8 # æ üyük Postane # ß 550 # þ# ü0 9 # ú 7 # ú 9 Vezir Han 6 á# #Ø 57 5 # # ü EMİN Çemberlitaş SİNN Gedikpaşa Camii Hamamı E Galata ridge (Galata Köprüsü) Turyol osphorus Hamidiye şir Efendi Yenicamii Mengene Hoca Hani Şeref Efendi L o Piyer Türbedar ti Klodfarer Peykhane æ Top Sights (p85) Lale ahçesi... Grand azaar... D5 Pandeli...E Spice azaar...e Şark Kahvesi... D5 Süleymaniye Mosque... C 5 Türk Ocaği Kültür ve Sanat Merkezi 5 6 æ Sights (p9) İktisadi İşletmesi Çay queduct of Valens... ahçesi...e5 eyazıt Meydanı... C5 6 Vefa ozacısı... eyazıt Mosque... C5 eyazıt Tower... C þ Shopping (p99) 5 üyük Valide Han... D bdulla Natural Products (see 9) 6 Çemberlitaş...E5 7 bdulla Natural Products... D5 7 Fourth Vakıf Han...E 8 k Gümüş... D5 8 Galata ridge... E 9 li Muhıddin Hacı ekir...e 9 İstanbul University... C 0 rmine... D 0 Mahmutpaşa Hamamı...E rslan aharat...e New Mosque...E Cocoon...(see 7) Nuruosmaniye Mosque...E5 Derviş...(see 9) Rüstem Paşa Mosque... D Derviş... D5 Şehzade Mehmet Mosque.. Dhoku... D5 5 Tombs of Süleyman and EthniCon...(see ) Roxelana... C Hafız Mustafa...E 5 Koç Deri Leather... D5 ú Eating (p9) 6 Kurukahveci Mehmet 6 ahar Restaurant... D5 Efendi... D 7 urç Ocakbaşı... D 7 Malatya Pazarı...E 8 Dönerci Şahin Usta... D5 Mehmet Kalmaz aharat (see 5) 9 Fes Cafe...E5 Muhlis Günbattı...(see 7) Fes Cafe...(see 9) 8 Sahaflar Çarşısı... C5 0 Hamdi Restaurant... D Serhat Geridönmez... (see 7) Havuzlu Restaurant... D 9 Sevan ıçakçı...e5 İmren Lokantası...E7 50 Silk & Cashmere...E5 Kanaat Fasülyeci... C 5 Silk & Cashmere... D5 Kara Mehmet... D 5 Şişko Osman... D 5 Kuru Fasülyeci Erzincanlı 5 Sofa...E5 li aba... C 5 Ucuzcular aharat...e 6 Namlı... D 55 Vakko İndirim...E Nar Lokantası...(see 0) 56 Yazmacı Necdet Danış... D 7 Onur Et Lokantası...E5 Ø Sports & ctivities (p0) û Drinking & Nightlife (p97) 57 Çemberlitaş Hamamı...E5 8 Erenler Çay ahçesi... D5 58 Gedikpaşa Hamamı... D6 9 Ethem Tezçakar Kahveci... D5 0 Kahve Dünyası...E5 ÿ Sleeping (p69) Kahve Dünyası... D 59 Saruhan Hotel... D7 Z R DISTRICT # ú Kadırga Lima nı Cinci Meydanı 7 E

14 6 Key on p8 C D Elmedağ Yedi Kuyular EYOĞLU NORTHEST Yenişeh ir Dereboyu alık Taksim DOLPDERE Tulumba Farabi bd ülhak Hamit Çorbacı Ömer Hayyam TRLŞI 9 5 0û # û# 8 # æ 60 ynali Çeşme û# 7 67 Üç Horan 6 59 Ermeni û# Kilisesi ý# ý# 7 Ü# 56 # # # þ # ï þ þ # æ 66 ÇUKURCUM 5 şıklar Maydanı # æ5 7 İstiklal desi æ# Duduodaları û# û# TEPEŞI 5 #ô GLTSRY #Ø # ò# ü 58 7 Kasımpaşa # 0ú û# 9 Stadium 7 û# 8 9 ü# 6û# 6 5 # ü# ý 55 0 Taktaki 6 5 # æ Yokuşu 9 6 8ß # 76 û# ü # 6 50 û# ò# 70 Kardeşler Cafe Postacılar EYOĞLU 7 7 Refik Saydam Meşrutiyet Emin Cami rslan alyoz Orhan dli paydin smalımescit Gönül Hamalbaşı Perükar Çik Kalyoncu K ullak İstiklal Eski Daracık Çiçekçi Nur-i Zıya Yeniçarşı Tomtom Kaptan Halas Yeşilçam Taksim Fırını Turnac ıb Hay riyeca d Tarlabaşı ul Sakız ğacı Dal gıç Süslü Saksı a şı ostancıbaşı C Nane Öğüt yhan Işık a d Çukurcuma Sadri Koca ğa lışık Faik paşa Palaska Kadiriler Yoku şu ltıpatlar ekar Hasnun Galip Liva Kasatura ltin ilezşk Kurabiye Küçük Parmak Kapı Hocazade Maç Güllabici Sıraselviler Matara karsu Yokuşu oğazkesen C D

15 lı 7 E Ölçek F #e 0 00 m 0 0. miles G H D uvardibi Lamartin Şehit Muhtar ey Recep Paşa ydede Topçu Cumhuriyet Taksim Gezi Yeri (Taksim Park) Havataş # irport us ELMDĞ sker Ocağı Taşkışla æ# Miralay Şefik ey Gazhane ostan Maçka Park Kadırgalar JK Inönü Stadium ostan Gazhanesi EYOĞLU NORTHEST # Taksim us Taksim Station 6 Meydanı æ# # Taksim # TKSİM İstiklal # ú 0 Dünya Sağlık Mete æ# İsmet İnönü Dümen ağ Odaları Hacı İzzet Paşa Osman Muhtar Kamil Çifte Vav k Meşelik illurcu 5 # û 8# û Oba 9 # ú 5 # û rsl an Yatağı Soğancı akraç # û 6 Yeni Yuva 65 #þ # ú CİHNGİR Kazancı aşı Camii Havyar Lenger # û5 Sağıroğlu Sormagir Cihangir Susam Kumrulu Pembe Somuncu 7 # ú Güneşli FINDIKLI İlyas Çelebi Kutlu Tavuk Uçmaz Öz oğ u ol henk l Sokak lçakdam Selime Hatun Camii Mebusan Yokuşu Selime Saray rkası # Fındıklı GÜMÜŞSUYU KTŞ Meclis-i Mebusan Necatibey Kabataş # # # Dentur Ferries to Üsküdar Mavi Marmara f# Ferries to Princes' Islands f# f# Ferries to Princes' Islands osphorus Strait (oğaziçi) E F G H

16 8 EYOĞLU NORTHEST EYOĞLU - NORTHEST Map on p6 æ Top Sights (p5) Dogzstar... C5 İstiklal desi...c5 Hazzo Pulo Çay ahçesi... 5 Indigo...6 æ Sights (p7) Jolly Joker... C5 kbank rt Centre...D 5 Kiki... E5 RTER Litera...6 tatürk Cultural Centre...F 7 Manda atmaz...6 tatürk Library...G Mikla... (see 76) 5 vrupa Pasajı MiniMüzikHol... E6 6 alık Pazarı Münferit...C6 7 Çiçek Pasajı...5 NuTeras...(see ) 8 Firuz ğa Camii...D6 50 Off Pera Galatasaray Lycée...C6 5 Perla Kallâvi Nargile Cafe Galerı pel...c6 5 Tek Yön... E5 Galerı Nev Urban... C5 Galerist White Mill...E7 Pera Museum...6 Pera Palace Hotel...7 ý Entertainment (p5) 5 SLT eyoğlu Garajistanbul Taksim Meydanı...E 56 Munzur Cafe & ar... D5 57 Toprak... D5 ú Eating (p) 7 smalı Canım Ciğerim...7 þ Shopping (p6) 8 rasserie La rise La Turca... D5 9 Changa...E5 59 li Muhıddin Hacı ekir...d 0 Çokçok eyoğlu Olgunlaşma Enstıtüsü...D Datlı Maya...D6 6 Denizler Kitabevi... 7 Demeti... E7 6 İstanbul Kitapçısı... 6 Enstitü La Cave Wine Shop...D6 Feraye...C5 6 Leyla Eski Eşya Pazarlama...D6 5 Gani Gani Şark Sofras...D5 65 Mariposa...E7 6 Hacı bdullah...c 66 Mephisto... C5 7 Jash...F6 67 Pandora...D 8 Kafe ra...6 Paşabahçe... (see 7) 9 Kallavi...D 68 Petek Turşuları Kitchenette...E 69 Reşat alık Market... 5 Medı Şark Sofrası...D5 70 Robinson Crusoe... 6 Meze by Lemon Tree Sütte Şarküteri... 5 Midpoint Tarihi eyoğlu Ekmek Fırını... 5 Mikla...(see 76) 7 Tezgah lley... 7 Saray Muhallebicisi...C5 Üç Yıldız Şekerleme... (see 7) Zencefil...(see 5) 5 Zübeyir Ocakbaşı...D Ø Sports & ctivities (p8) 7 ğa Hamamı... D5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p) Cumhuriyet nıtı (Republic (see ) Monument)...(see 6) 6 5 Kat...E6 Istanbul Culinary Institute... (see ) 7 raf...c 8 igudi Cafe...D ÿ Sleeping (p7) 9 üyük Londra Oteli ar Chambers of the oheme... D5 Cafe Susam...(see ) 76 Marmara Pera Club 7...D Pera Palace Hotel...(see )

17 9 EYOĞLU - SOUTHWEST Map on p0 æ Top Sights (p6) Cafe Gündoğdu...C İstanbul Modern... F Le Fumoir...D 5 Leb-i Derya...D æ Sights (p7) 6 Leb-i Derya Richmond...D rab Mosque... 7 Mavra...D zapkapı Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Camii... 8 Sensus Wine ar... C otter House...C 9 Smyrna... F Christ Church...D 0 Tophane Nargile Cafes...F 5 Depo...E Waterfront Çay ahçesis...h 6 Galata Mevlevi Museum...C X ar... 7 Galata Tower...C 8 Jewish Museum of Turkey...C5 ý Entertainment (p5) 9 Kasa Galeri...C abylon...c 0 Museum of Innocence...E Galata Mevlevi Museum...(see 6) Patisserie Lebon...C Nardis Jazz Club...C SLT Galata...C Salon... (see ) Schneidertempel rt Center...C þ Shopping (p6) ú Eating (p) 5 rtrium...c ntiochia...c 6 rzu Kaprol...C 5 smalı Cavit... C 7 ahar Korçan...C Ca' d'oro...(see ) 8 errin kyüz...g 6 Fasuli Lokantaları... F 9 Dear East...D 7 Fürreyya Galata alıkçısı...c 50 Hammam...C 8 Galata House...C 5 İroni...C 9 Galata Konak Patisserie Cafe...C 5 İstanbul Modern Gift Shop...F 0 Güney Restaurant...C 5 Lâl...C Helvetia Lokanta...C 5 Lale Plak...C İstanbul Modern Cafe/Restaurant... F 55 Selda Okutan... E Journey...F 56 SIR...D Karaköy Güllüoğlu...D5 5 Karaköy Lokantası...E ÿ Sleeping (p7) 6 Kiva Han...C nemon Galata... (see 8) 7 Lokanta Maya...E 57 nsen Suites...C 8 Namlı...D5 58 eş Oda...D 9 Sofyalı 9...C 59 Galateia Residence... D 0 The House Café...C 60 Manzara Istanbul... C 6 Serdar-ı Ekrem D û Drinking & Nightlife (p) 6 TomTom Suites...D tölye Kuledıbı...C 6 Witt Istanbul Hotel...F aylo...c 6 World House Hostel... C EYOĞLU SOUTHWEST

18 Yüksek Ka 0 EYOĞLU SOUTHWEST Key on p9 5 Hasan Paşa Park ß# Tali Havuzbaşı Deǧirmen Evliya Çelebi Cevahir Çikmazi nbar rkası Paşa Çıplağı Yolcuzade Yelkenciler Golden Horn (Haliç) Mürver Fütuhat Hediye Dik li aba Şişhane Yanıkkapı ß# Nafe Taflan Tutskuk akir Tepebaşı Tepebaşı karca yni li aba Okçu Musa Re fik Saydam Şimal Hoca Hanim Tersane Zıyalı Kuyu Zincirli Han Perşembe Pazarı # ú # ý Meşrutiyet üyük Hendek Laleli Çeşm e S k Jurnal 7 # û þ# þ# # ú 8 7 ## úú # û þ# Galata 50 # æ ü# Meydanı 7 þ# # û þ# 5 # ý 5 Ilk elediye # ú 8 Camondo Stairs Kürekçiler Fermeneciler Orhan dli paydin smalımescit Minare Camii # # æ æ illur # alyoz Galipdede Gönül # ú 5 # û6 # ú9 Hacı li Sögüt 9 8 #ò # Karaköy Karaköy Karaköy Fish Market Karaköy f# #ô Meydanı Turyol Ferries to Kadıköy & Üsküdar Postacıl a lageyik Maliye r # û 9 # æ # ú 57 0 # ú # Şişhane TÜNEL # û edrettin Şişhane þ# 5 # # # # 5 5 û þ# 59 Tünel 6 56 Meydanı ŞİŞHNE 6 58 þ# # Ü# Şişhane 7 ü# Serdar-ı Ekrem Yolcuzade İskender Galata Mahkemesi ankalar C TEPEŞI Tünel (Karaköy) Şah Kulu ostan ldırım İstiklal Dibek li Hoca Tatar eyi Lüleci H endek GLT Necatibey D Gümrük 6 Kumbaracı Yokuşu 9 þ# Fevzi Kemeraltı rapoğlan Rıhtım EYOĞLU Camcı Örmealtı Haci Mimi Külhanı 8 # ú # ú KRKÖY Kemankeş f# Ferries to Kadıköy 6 Galata ridge (Galata Köprüsü) 7 SRIDEMİR Ragıp Gümüşpala C D

19 #æ 5 ostaniçi Cami Karabaş Deresi 0 Dalgıç Ka rabaş þ# 55 Necatibey Türkgücü. Set Tophane # Murakıp Palaska Kadiriler Yokuşu Kasatura Denizcıler 6 #ÿ 5 7 f #ï # Karaköy International Maritime Passenger Terminal Mumhane ş oğazkesen E li Paşa Değirmeni Çukurcuma Tulumbacı Sıtkı Tombaz li Paşa Medresesi Kemankeş ğa Hamamı Defterdar Yokuşu ltin ilezşk n ah tar ata rya û# þ# 8 9 TOPHNE 0 ü# 5 6 þ# İstanbul Modern Tophane İskele F Sıraselviler karsu Yokuşu #e 0 00 m 0 0. miles G H Coşkun Yeni Yuva CİHNGİR Sanatkarlar akraç Enli Yokuşu Susam Necatibey Meclis-i Mebusan Sanatkarlar Mektebi Lenger Kumrulu Güneşli İlyas Çelebi osphorus Strait (oğaziçi) Cihangir FINDIKLI Ismail Dümbüllü Fındıklı # ü# 5 EYOĞLU SOUTHWEST 6 7 E F G H

20 C D TEŞVİKİYE DİKİLIİŞ Palanga EŞIKTŞ ORTKÖY 5 Muradiye ayırı Kalıpçı Ihlamur- Teşvikiye Yolu MEŞRUTIYET DeryadilMuradiye Deresi Taşlık Park Nüzhetiye VİŞNEZDE 9 5 # ú #þ Dolmabahçe Palace V# Dolm abahçe Ihlamur Deresi Odalar Mısırlı Hattat Tah sin Dizi Süleyman Seba (Spor) a hç Uzuncaova Misirlibahce bbasağa Park # arış ltintaş Ful ya Deresi Jandarma Mektebi Ortabahçe Ihlamur-Yıldız ıl h a n Maşuklar Köyiçi #æ 5 #ô eşiktaş Çömezler Selamlık Cedidiye Yıldız Posta kdoğan EŞİKTŞ İskele arbaros ul Mazharpaşa Eski Yıldız # f# İskele (Ferry Dock) f# Ferries to Kadıköy Yıldız Şale Ihlamur-Yıldız Yıldız Serencebey Yokuşu Es kikonak sariye Çitlenbik Müvezzi Çırağan 6 #ÿ ü# Cafes & ars YİLDİZ # Malta ü# Köşkü Yıldız Park 6 # 0 # û V# C D æ Sights Top Sights (p000) (p) ú Eating (p000) (p) Çırağan Dolmabahçe Palace Palace D 87 anyan...f Dolmabahçe Palace...5 House Cafe...(see 8) 7) æ Sights Hatice Sultan Yalı...G (p) 98 Kitchenette...F Naval Çırağan Museum Palace D 09 Vogue... 5 Ortaköy Hatice Sultan Mosque Yalı...G...G Zuma...(see 8) 7) 6 Tomb Naval Museum of arbarossa...c Yıldız Ortaköy Park Mosque...D...G û Drinking & Nightlife (p000) (p) 5 Tomb of arbarossa...c njelique...(see 8) 7) 6 Yıldız Park...D 0 Çırağan Palace Kempinski Hotel...D

21 E F #e m miles G H KURUÇEŞME û# Yıldız # æ Porselen Fabrikası Musevi Mesarlığı Fıstıklı Köşk Sarıbal i Ya hya Ef end Çevirmeci Kabalak # Lozan MECİDİYE Çevir meci Gü Sehit Nuri Pamir lte kin Ortaköy Dereboyu ORTKÖY ý # 8 # 7 7#ÿ f# Gözleme & Kumpir Stands #ß İskele (Ferry Dock) # û# û# # æ Muallim Naci Ortaköy Değirmenci osphorus ridge (oğaziçi Köprüsü) EŞIKTŞ ORTKÖY osphorus Strait (oğaziçi) 5 E F G H Reina... G Ø Sports & ctivities (p000) (p5) Sortie... H osphorus Tours...(see ) 5) Supperclub... G Four Seasons Istanbul at the osphorus...(see 6) 7) ý Entertainment (p000) (p) 5 İstanbul Jazz Center...F ÿ Sleeping (p000) (p7) 6 7 Four Seasons Istanbul at the þ Shopping (p000) (p5) osphorus...d 6 5 Haremlique... House Hotel...(see 8) 7) 8 7 Radisson lu osphorus Hotel... F

22 ynalıkavak Hasköy Dervișzade # æ w â # ú # ß # â # w SULUKULE ß # # EDIRNEKPI DERVİŞ LI VCI EY LIKHNE KSIM GÜNNİ Old Galata ridge yvansaray Varul im İb ra h Ebe Çınçınlı Ceşme Egrikapı Mumhane Şișhane C ebecibaşı LT Püskülcü yvansaray iye Meşatlık Dür Vodina Çilingir Savaklar Golden Horn (Haliç) Kariye Camii HIZIR 9 ÇVUŞ 0 Karagümrük Stadium EYCEĞİZ Ü # # ú Ü # Paşa Ham amı Otakçıbaşı Gevgirli Kantarcı li Hoca Çakır Dükkan â # FENER Ü # # ú Çimen Mürselpaşa Zülüflü Kasap Topkapi Edirnekapı bdülezel Paşa Kiremit Draman Çeşmesi Kesmek aya Kariye Türbe Edirnekapı Rami Hacı İbrahim Neşter Draman li Kuşçu lsok Fethiye Incib e Kefevi Faizci Müftü Kasim O dalar Soguk T ulumba Mismarcı Fevzi Paşa Eroğlu nemas Zindanları İvaz Efendi Mosque Kafesçi Yumni Emir uhari Tekkesi İstanbul Çevre Yolu 6 â # Şair Niyazi â # Camcı Çeşmesi Yokuş 7 Greek Lycée of the Fener Dolapli ostan Dilmaç Draman Çukuru 5 # æ C D Kelebek Prof Naci Şensoy C ad Fodlacı Karucu Sarmașık Niyazi Misri æ Sights Top Sights (p000) (p0) Church Kariye Museum of St Mary (Chora of the Church) Mongols D Church of St Stephen of the ulgars... D æ Sights (p07) Fethiye Museum... C Church of St Mary of the Mongols... D Kariye Museum (Chora Church)... Church of St Stephen of the ulgars... D 5 Mihrimah Sultan Hamamı... Fethiye Museum... C 6 Mihrimah Sultan Mosque... Mihrimah Sultan Hamamı... 7 Palace of Constantine 5 Mihrimah Sultan Mosque... Porphyrogenitus... 6 Palace of Constantine 8 Patriarchal Church of St George... D Porphyrogenitus... 9 Sultan Selim Mosque...D 7 Patriarchal Church of St George... D ú Eating 8 Sultan Selim Mosque...D (p000) 0 sitane... ú Eating (p0) Köfteci rnavut... D 9 sitane... Tarihi Haliç İşkembecisi... D 0 Köfteci rnavut... D Tarihi Haliç İşkembecisi... D WESTERN DISTRICTS #e 0 00 m 0 0. miles C D E 8 ß # E

23 Paşa Li ma nı Hakimiyet-i Milliye 5 Turyol Ferries to Eminönü & Karaköy Ferries to eşiktaş f # Ferries to Eminönü & Golden Horn f # 9 ü # ß # 6 f # ß # SLCK #á oat to f # Kız Kulesi 7 ß # # ß # 5 8 ú # #ò ß # ß # Tibbiye osphorus Strait (oğaziçi) Üsküdar - Harem Gündoǧumu Kasimaǧa Halk Dershanesi üyük Selim Paşa Eski Toptaşı Tunusbağı Şair N a Viransaray ili kele Ferah Valıde Imaret Çinili Külhane Çinili Hamam Salacak İs Sümbülzade Halk Esbapçı Dr Fahri tab ey Çavuşdere Ca d Enfiyehane ç ık Türbe Zen ciler Yeniyol Hatmi Sahil Yolu Doğancılar Şah Ruhi YZM Tulumbacılar Kuşoǧlu RUMİ MEHMET PŞ HMET ÇELEİ İHSNİYE GÜLFEM HTUN HREM KEFÇEDEDE RKİYECI HCI CFER Hammam Katibim ziz ey Üsküdar Mahkeme rkası Selam-i li Efendi Selam-i li Efendi TEMEL HCI MEHMET TOYGR HMZ TKLR VLİDE-İ TİK Top hanelioğlu Şemsi Paşa Selman-ı Pak SOLK SİNN Selanikliler Yeşil aş ayırı Kirişçi İmam Hüsnü SELMNĞ Kurşuol u M e d rese Servılık C D C D E ÜSKÜDR #e 0 00 m 0 0. miles E To Şakirin Mosque (600m) æ Sights (p8) tik Valide Mosque...D yazma Mosque... Çinili Mosque...E Kız Kulesi... 5 Mihrimah Sultan Mosque... C 6 Şemsi hmed Paşa Mosque... 7 Yeni Valide Mosque...C ú Eating (p9) 8 Kanaat Lokantası... C û Drinking & Nightlife (p9) 9 Mistanbul Hancı Cafe...

24 6 KRIYE MUSEUm Exit KRIYE MUSEUM 8 6 (CHOR CHURCH) 9 G 0 nnex b a C H Outer 5 5 Narthex 0 7 I 8 C 6 50 Nave pse Inner 5 D Narthex 6 J E Parecclesion L F K 5 P U O N M Entrance æ Mosaics The voyage of the Virgin to ethlehem & the dream of Joseph The census held for the enrolment for taxation & registration of Mary & Joseph in the presence of Cyrenius, Governor of Syria Jesus going with Mary & Joseph to Jerusalem Remains of mosaics Jesus among the doctors in the temple 5 St Trachos 5 St ndronikus 6 The birth of Jesus 7 The return of the Virgin Mary with Jesus 8 The attempts of Satan to deceive Jesus 9 St Georgios 9 St Demetrius 0 Jesus & the inscription the dwelling-place of the living The prayer of the Virgin & the attendant angels The wedding at Cana & the miracles Depiction of the saints Depiction of the saints The Magi on their way to Jerusalem riding on horseback & the three Magi in audience with King Herod 5 Elizabeth & John the aptist running away from a pursuing soldier 6 Remains of mosaics 7 Depiction of the saints 7 Depiction of the saints 8 The scene of King Herod s investigation & a guard standing 9 The mourning mothers 0 No mosaics left decorative medallion The meeting of Jesus with the Samaritan woman at the well The healing of a paralysed person by Jesus King Herod giving the order for the massacre of the innocents & the execution thereof 5 Remains of mosaics 6 The healing by Jesus of a young man with an injured arm 6 The healing by Jesus of leprous man 7 Twenty-four of the early ancestors of Jesus (Genealogy of Christ) 8 The healing by Jesus of a woman asking for the restoration of her health 9 The healing by Jesus of the mother-in-law of St Peter 0 The healing by Jesus of a deaf person

25 C Dispersion of good health by Jesus to the people The healing by Jesus of two blind men The Khalke Jesus & the praying Virgin The Virgin & the Child Jesus Joachim in the mountains praying to have a child No mosaics left The breaking of the good news of the birth of Jesus to Mary The nnunciation The chief priest Zacchariah judging the Virgin Mary & Joseph bidding each other farewell The breaking of the good news of the birth of Mary to nne The meeting of nne & Joachim Joseph bringing the Virgin into his house Mary in the arms of nne & Joachim & the blessing by the priests Giving of the stick with young shoots indicating Joseph as Mary s fiancé The birth of the Virgin Mary The first seven steps of the Virgin & below, St Peter The prayer of the chief priest Zacchariah in front of the sticks The presentation of Mary (age three) to the temple by her parents The Virgin taking the skeins of wool to weave the veil for the temple Theodore Metochites presenting a small model of the church to Jesus The feeding of the Virgin by an angel & below, St Peter Remains of mosaics Directives given to the Virgin at the temple The ssumption of the Virgin Mary & the Child Jesus Jesus in a standing posture, holding the ible in his hand æ Frescoes 5 The nastasis 5 The Church Fathers 5 The raising (resurrection) of the widow's son) 5 The healing of the daughter of Jairus 55 The Virgin Elousa 56 The Last Judgment 57 braham & the beggar Lazarus on his lap 58 St George 59 Rich man burning in Hell's fire 60 Those entering Heaven & the ngel Seraphim with the semi-nude good thief. 6 Depiction of ndronikus II & his family & the inscription & depiction above of Makarios Tornikes & his wife Eugenia 6 The earing of the rk of the Covenant 6 St Demetrius 6 St Theodore Tiro 65 Mary & Child Jesus with the attending angels 66 Four Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St Cosmos 67 Four Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St John of Damascene 68 Four Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St Theophanes 69 Four Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St Joseph 70 St Theodore Stratelates 7 King Solomon & the Israelites 7 Placement into the temple of the rk of the Covenant 7 The combat of an angel with the surians in the outskirts of Jerusalem. 7 St Procopios, St Sabas Stratelates 75 Moses in the bushes 76 Jacob's ladder & the angels 77 aron & his sons carrying votive offerings, in front of the altar 78 St Samonas & guiras KRIYE MUSEUm

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