Number 12 october 2013

Transcription

1 Numbr 12 octobr 2013

2 2 d i t o r i a l Umbrto Csari dar frinds, W hav now arrivd at th 12 th dition of our nws magazin, with this issu bing writtn right whil th graps ar bing pickd. Th 2013 harvst bgan a bit latr than last yar, thus rturning to a mor traditional stating dat. Th ntir growing yar was markd by priods of rain altrnating with wks of warmth and sun, conditions that dlayd th harvst but allowd th graps a mor gradual ripning, which naturally boostd lvls of aromatic compounds and polyphnols. It is hard to draw any hard and fast conclusions at th momnt, but stimats ar for a crop incras of som 5% throughout Emilia Romagna, along with xcllnt quality. Whil w wait for th final rsults, w ar njoying th fruits of past harvsts, thanks to th many awards that our wins hav won, which w discuss blow. W also ar going to giv you an xclusiv prviw of a truly uniqu vnt, Vini con m in Emilia Romagna, two gala dinnrs that will b hld in Montral in Canada and in Mxico City, whos purpos is to lt th world apprciat th outstanding foods and wins of Emilia Romagna. Th VIPs of th two vnings will b Massimo Bottura, th many-starrd chf who, bttr than anyon ls, has rintrprtd th cuisin of Emilia Romagna, and Luca Gardini, 2010 World s Bst Sommlir. But thr ar mor surpriss, of cours. You will find our nw suggstions for Christmas gift-giving, and w will rval whr our Sangiovs has bn travlling. You will find our usual xprts columns, and this issu s It s your turn... will introduc Tibrio Biondi, Managr of on of Bolognas historic hotls, th Grand Hotl Majstic (x-baglioni). I wish you njoyabl rading, and hop you will b back for our nxt issu. summary d i t o r i a l pag. 2 Pignoltto-story closd to th happy nding 3 Vini con m in Emilia-Romagna 3 t h v o i c o f t h w i n Luca Gardini: His sns for win 4 Whn th vin ylds prfum 4 This summr a sa of mdals 4 f r o m b a r r i q u t o m o u i l l t t An ffrvscnt footbath 5 A walth of gifts dsignd just for you 5 i t s y o u r t u r n... Tibrio Biondi 5 W o m a n i n w i n La vi n rosé 6 R c i p o f t h s a s o n Squash tortlloni 6 Vino Vip at Cortina 6 s a n g i o v s o n t h r o a d Bali 7 t o a c h h i s o w n Th Dcantr 7 t h w i n s c n 7 A b o u t w i n Coll dl R Albana Passito 7 U p c o m i n g v n t s : Vini con m in Emilia Romagna Montréal (Canada) 28 th Octobr 2013 Mxico City (Mxico) 31 st Octobr 2013 Win in progrss 47 th Italian Sommlir Association National Congrss: Firnz (Italy) 16 th -17 th Novmbr 2013 Dcantr Fin Win Encountr London (UK) 16 th -17 th Novmbr 2013 Fancy Food San Francisco (USA) 19 th -20 th January 2014 Priodical of Csari Srl - Copyrightd with th Tribunal di Bologna n of 22/01/10 Gnral Editor: Gianmaria Csari Ownr and publishr: Csari Srl - via Stanzano 1120, Castl San Pitro Trm (Bo) Tl mail info@umbrtocsari.it Print: La Grca, Forlì - u m b r t o c s a r i n w s

3 Pignoltto-story closd to th happy nding by Lornzo Frassoldati An xcptional vning, a journy to a land of th finst products, a tasting xprinc at th highst quality lvl, a trip of discovry into th rgion s cultur, tasts, and mastrpics: Vini con m in Emilia Romagna (Com with M to Emilia Romagna) will b all this. Th programm boasts two gala dinnrs that will b hld in Montréal in Canada and in Mxico City, rspctivly on 28 Oc- o C t o b r tobr at th Ristorant Grazilla and on 31 Octobr at La Cantintta dl Bcco. For ths ultra-spcial vnings, Umbrto Csari has marshalld togthr thr of Romagna s tru icons. First, Umbrto Csari s wins, known and apprciatd throughout th world. Scondly, Massimo Bottura, th multi-starrd chf who, bttr than anyon ls, has rintrprtd th classic cuisin of Emilia Romagna. Finally, Romagna s Luca Gardini, th 2010 World s Bst Sommlir. Thr stllar talnts of Emilia Romagna, two rstaurants symbolising to th world Italian cuisin, and an xcptional rgion--all this awaits th lucky gusts. Vini con m in Emilia Romagna was dsignd with th objctiv of making known to th world th grat nogastronomic cultur of our rgion, xplaind Gianmaria Csari. Disdaind by th win guids and littl apprciatd vn in its own growing ara, Pignoltto until just a fw yars ago was a strangr in its own land, a fizzy whit that on could hardly find at apritif tim vn in th win bars of Bologna. Th situation was mad wors by th ndmic litigiousnss/rivalry among th Colli Bolognsi producrs thmslvs, who concntratd thir attntion mor on Frnch rds, such as Mrlot and Cabrnt, than on whit wins, and whos intrnal divisions wr so svr as to lad to a split in th Consorzio itslf. Past history, though, sinc in just a fw yars all has changd. Th pignoltto grap grown on th Bologns hillslops bnfittd from th rturn to fashion of whit wins, and in particular sparklrs with a good pric-quality rlationship. As an xcllnt bas win for charmat mthod spumants, vn bttr in tandm with chardonnay, Pignoltto has bn rdiscovrd for its vrsatility, njoyabl as an apritif win but good too as a partnr vn with fairly harty dishs, such as tortllini, lasagn, and cotoltta alla ptroniana. Th Proscco boom lnt its pull to this Bologns youngr cousin, which njoys th advantag of a mor rasonabl pric for qual quality. Quit a fw sparklrs ar doing wll; that has attractd th attntion of th larg spumant producrs basd in Modna and in Romagna, and som hav invstd right in th Colli ara. Th first sign of this chang in dirction was th first priz awardd by Vinitaly s win comptition, awardd to a lightly-sparkling Pignoltto from Imola producd by Cvico. In th mantim, th Bologna-ara producrs hav bn incrasingly focusing on improving th quality of th still vrsion, th classic Pignoltto, and th DOCG dsignation was rqustd and approvd in Th quantitis producd so far hav bn limitd, but th trroir quality has bn imprssiv, so much so that th first Thr Glasss in history from Gambro Rosso wr awardd to a win from th Orsi San Vito winry. Which brings us up to today. Th attntion bing paid to Pignoltto is quit varid, vn to th point of confusion, and intrst is high in othr rgions as wll. This Bologna whit win could grow to b th havy-hittr in a rgion hithrto givn ovr to th Lambrusco-Sangiovs dut. But it would b a sham if its origin is ignord, if, that is, what is a varital win that can b grown anywhr should b turnd into a growing ara-limitd dnomination. Study of old maps and documnts has ld to th discovry of th villag of Pignoltto in th commun of Montvglio, and that ld to th proposal for two Pignoltto dnominations, th DOC with a prsnt 8 million bottl production, basd in th fiv provincs of Bologna, Frrara, Modna, Rggio, and Forlì-Csna, and th singl DOCG for th Colli Bolognsi, which is prsntly th classic still vrsion but with a futur rqust mappd out for a fizzy styl as wll. Onc th dnominations ar lockd in plac, thr rmains th challng of pumping up th charactr and visibility of a win that prcisly as a rsult of its succss in th larg rtail chains risks banalisation. Th dnominations ar protcting th production of th win, but th producr consortiums now hav th job of dsigning intllignt promotional programms so that at last Italy s rstaurants can gt to know th tru Pignoltto. Starting with thos in Bologna itslf. Vini con m in Emilia-Romagna Luca Gardini Massimo Bottura Italy s most famous products hail from Emilia Romagna: Parmigiano Rggiano, Acto Balsamico Tradizional, Prosciutto di Parma, and, obviously, Sangiovs. Food and win ar symbiotic, thy ar born to complmnt ach othr, and it is important that othr countris larn this uniqu combination and that thy apprciat as wll that th prfct partnr for a traditional dish is a win from th sam rgion. 3

4 t a s t th voic of th win Luca Gardini: His sns for win 4 by Luca Gardini Hurrah for th nativs, but within rason As part of my job, I tast vrything, not just win, obviously: distilld spirits, for xampl, both on thir own as wll as blndd into cocktails, plus minral watrs, tas, and coffs. Th world of tasting is a fascinating univrs, with a broad walth of divrs aspcts, all of which complicat and hightn its ffcts whn a bvrag is paird with food. Th possibilitis ar ndlss, as long as on dosn t xaggrat. In tasting circls ths days, on hars a lot about trroir, and incrasingly frquntly about indignous graps. Ths ar fundamntal and insparabl concpts, but thy ar oftn takn to xtrms, with th risk of alinating win lovrs and futur consumrs rathr than attracting thm. I myslf hav nvr bn a fanatic, vn if, naturally, I rcognis th fundamntal rol that many indignous varitis play in our national win community. As a Romagnolo, I hav always lovd sangiovs, which is a tru prid of our rgion, whr it achivs, in my opinion, on of its most vibrant and distinctiv xprssions, thanks prcisly to th combination of trroir and nativ grap. But I hav nvr, by th sam tokn, scornd blnds, not vn thos that marry a nativ to, lt s say, an intrnational varity or othr forign grap. W witnss today a grat to-do about indignous varitis, with win fairs and a lot of magazin columns focusd on thm. And all that is fascinating, and vn vital for minor varitis that othrwis would los idntity or vn go xtinct. But, again, it is bst not to b blindd by xtrmism. A rading of Italy s viticultural history will rval how our country, for many rasons, both historic as wll as social, bcam th idal habitat for varitis, oftn Frnch, which hav found hr qually suprb trroirs and nobl intrprtations. Th Vnto is an xampl, and in Tuscany, just look at Carmignano, whr th Frnch grap has bn for ovr a cntury now an ssntial componnt of th blnd, sid by sid with sangiovs, and maks an absolutly crucial contribution to that win s uniqu txtur and nos. A blnd of diffrnt varitis is, aftr all, a tru art, historically practicd in many aras, an art which nrichs th work of both grapgrowr and winmakr. Knowing how to unit togthr wins grown in diffrnt vinyard parcls, with vry divrs charactristics vn though th sam grap varity, constituts a fascinating task and challng. Thn if w furthr add th blnding of diffrnt varitis, w will discovr a world that can provid xciting snsory imprssions, for both thos who mak th win and for thos who latr njoy it. Win-prfum tasting at th Naldi profumria Whn th vin ylds prfum On th occasion of th fourth annual Smll Fstival, th vnt clbrating prfum and th sns of smll, Naldi profumria in Bologna hld a uniqu vnt, on 23 May, an unusual comparativ tasting of win and prfum. For prfum lovrs it was a trrific opportunity to tast Umbrto Csari wins and th fragrancs of th Taulto Win Fragranc lin, scnts inspird by th snsory qualitis of th bouqut of th all-sangiovs Taulto. Gusts had th additional plasur of an xclusiv prviw of Cra Viva, an lgant candl whos warmth transforms it into a massag oil. Naldi s historic prfumry in Via Indipndnza 23 was innovativly transformd into a Bar à Parfums, a striking salon whr gusts could both smll and tast, by th glass, a uniqu vnt crtainly diffrnt from th classic tasting, on that allowd aficionados of unusual prfums to xprinc th motions that a vinyard offrs, for th sns of smll as wll as for that of tast. this summr a sa OF mdals Umbrto Csari s mdals showcas continus to fill with vr mor prstigious Italian and intrnational win awards. From th Usa coms a long-awaitd accolad: th authoritativ Win Enthusiast awardd 90 out of 100 points to Liano Sangiovs Cabrnt Sauvignon In addition to this imprssiv milston, Liano also won th Gold Mdal at Zurich s Intrnational Winprämirung, and Liano Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc 2011 took hom th Silvr. Strling rsults cam from Italy too, at th Slzion dl Sindaco comptition, whr both Taulto 2007 and Coll dl R Albana di Romagna Passito 2006 wr awardd Gold Mdals, whil Moma Bianco 2012, Ymula 2010, Sangiovs Risrva 2010, Liano Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc 2011, and Moma Spumant all wnt to th podium for th Silvr Mdal. All in all, a summr full of accolads and satisfaction. u m b r t o c s a r i n w s

5 c a r f r o m b a r r i q u t o m o u i l l t t An ffrvscnt footbath Th harvst is th most important and xciting priod of th yar, with th first graps bing brought into th cllar and th fragranc of th frmnting must filling th air. Taulto SPA wantd to captur th motional high of this momnt, and so w dsignd ffrvscnt tablts that hav two complmntary purposs. In a footbath, thy convy th chrful imprssion of th traditional foot crushing of th graps, whil dissolving thm in bathwatr givs th watr th hu of frmnting must and th plasur of a divin Bacchic bath. Th tablts contain grapsd oil, swt almond oil, bicarbonat of soda, and antioxidant biopolyphnols. Taulto SPA ffrvscnt tablts: pur rlaxation nvlopd in th fragranc of frsh win. For information: Taulto SPA ffrvscnt tablts A walth of gifts dsignd just for you Th countdown to th holidays is about to bgin, and so is that sarch for th prfct gift. With just 2 months to go until Christmas, Umbrto Csari has a bagful of gift suggstions to satisfy vry nd. From traditional to innovativ wins, from crisp sparkling wins to charactr-rich Sangiovss, from th prfct win for an apritif to th aftr-dinnr choic: you will find a walth of slctions to satisfy any tast. In addition, this yar s catalogu boasts som fascinating nw offrings: th Liano Collction, for thos who can t choos btwn Liano Bianco or Rosso; th Classico Modrno giftbox for thos who lov tradition but ar opn to innovation as wll; and th Gran Final, th finst conclusion to an outstanding vning. If you ar sarching for that prfct gift, not only for Christmas but for any priod of th yar, our gift packs will b just what you r looking for. Gift pack Gran Final i t s y o u r t u r n... tibrio biondi Dirctor of th Grand Hotl Majstic x-baglioni W mt up with Tibrio Biondi in th salon of th prstigious Grand Hotl Majstic, a historic vnu of Bologna that rcntly clbratd its 100 th annivrsary. Biondi has ddicatd his ntir profssional carr to this stablishmnt; aftr his studis h was hird as Assistant Dirctor, and aftr a fw yars was namd Dirctor, a rol h still fulfils with considrabl prid. H has spnt his lif in managing on of th city s most important landmarks, which volvd from bing th vital hart of th Futurist movmnt in Bologna to bing a fixtur among th flourishing thatrs and stablishmnts of th Bll Époqu, and finally to bing th icon of Bologns luxury and xclusivity. What do you lik bst about your work? Contact with th public and th opportunity of always crating not just a stay but a ral xprinc customisd to ach of our gusts. What do you lik th last? Th frantic pac. Somtims I rally fl th nd to just sit down, prfrably in our gardn in th wintrtim, and allow myslf too to njoy o C t o b r th dlights of this marvllous plac. Do you hav any hobbis? If so, what do you njoy doing in your fr tim- -if you hav any? No, thr s not much fr tim. Fortunatly, I can intgrat my hobby, intrior dsign, with my job, sinc I hav a ral passion for furnishing and for r-styling th hotl. What is your most rcnt trip? Last summr I stayd in Italy, and I r-discovrd, with grat plasur, th bautis of Liguria: som spots around Gnoa and Portofino ar always fascinating. Do you prfr rd or whit win? Rd. If you wr a win, what would it b? Champagn, sinc it is composd of livlinss, sincrity, and lganc. If Sangiovs wr a VIP who would it b? Wll, it is on of our country s finst graps, and th on that plays such an important rol in Chianti, Brunllo, and Morllino so it signifis italianità and grat vrsatility. And that maks m think of Luciano Pavarotti, who by th way was oftn a gust in our hotl. What is th bst tim to njoy a good glass of win? At sunst. What win would you offr to your bst frind? A Taulto, and if possibl opning a fin magnum. What win would you offr to your worst nmy? Wll, without wanting to paint too bad a pictur, I d say a box win. If you could choos, what would you do in a diffrnt lif? Just daydraming a bit, I d say an architct or an intrior dcorator (in lin with my hobby/ passion). What ar th thr things you would bring with you on a dsrt island? A watr bottl, a knif, and, unfortunatly, my Blackbrry. Why did th Gran Hotl Majstic x-baglioni slct Umbrto Csari win? Bcaus, just lik our hotl, it rprsnts on of our ara s finst achivmnts. Tibrio Biondi 5

6 W O M A N i n w i n LA Vi n rosé by Rnata Ortolani m a t c h 6 l i v If a concrt, undniabl proof, a ral smoking gun, wr vr ndd of how win, xcllnt quality win, has fully pntratd into both th ral and crativ world of womn, in all its aspcts, all on has to do is look at th aras that today ar hr sovrign domain : th hous, in th most libral sns, and abov all its furnishings. So what has that got to do with win? Quit a bit, actually, and as autumn and wintr advanc, ach with its own social rituals, th vidnc bcoms vn clarr. So, this yar rosé is vry popular, and not only ar th grat producrs, such as Umbrto Csari, awar of this fact, so ar th producrs of tablcloths, plats, glasss, and ral or synthtic flowr bouquts. And thus w alrady s advancing, tntativly last spring, mor visibly this summr, a wav of pink. W njoy our rosés in pink crystal or in glasss mad of on of th nw plastics, all d riguur in pink; back now ar th fruitand flowr-motif tablcloths, all in pink or purpl; chairs, too, and carafs, napkins, and wallpaprs, all in various dlicat shads of pink. But abov all, rosé (alongsid of cours th classic rd and whit wins) has litrally gon to th had of both marrid and singl womn, who of cours ar always busy with wlcoming girl and boy frinds, profssional collagus, rlativs and acquaintancs to clbrat birthdays, promotions, births, or first, scond, or third marriags, all of thm bdckd in hus of th nctar of th gods, rosé. So w hav all thos partis, vnings, aftrnoon vnts, with th lady of th hous and hr gusts in jans, blouss, or short or long drsss, ach in tons of that romantic pink sparklr, à la th 30s. And is that a surpris? Womn ar romantic, thy lov th imaginativ, th bautiful, but always with thir ft solidly plantd in rality, and in a yar still markd by criss, th mssag thy choos to chr thmslvs and othrs is full of ncouragmnt, of hop and optimism: la vi n ros, or rathr, lif is a rosè... r c i p o f t h s a s o n SquASH TOrtLLONi, Parmigiano Rggiano fondu, crispy panctta Rcip by Digo Martinlli Ingrdints for 4/5 prsons 400 gr 00 flour 4 ggs 1.5 kg squash 100 gr gratd Parmigiano 200 g slicd panctta Salt, pppr, nutmg buttr as ndd Prparation Mix togthr all th ingrdints for th fondu in a bainmari, thn whip in a blndr and pass through a fin siv. Rmov th sds from th squash but lav th outsid rind; cut into pics, bak in a pr-hatd ovn at 180 C for a full hour. In th mantim, mak th dough with th ggs and flour, lt rst 30 minuts wrappd in food film. Whn th squash is don, lt cool, rmov th rind, pass th pulp through a potato prss into a dish. Add th Parmigiano, salt, pppr, and nutmg. With a rolling pin and a bit of flour, mak a fairly thin sht of pasta, cut out circls with a pasta cuttr, and plac a ball of filling in th cntr of ach. Sal up ach tortllon. Cook in plnty of saltd watr, thn plac on top of th fondu. Bforhand, slic th panctta and sauté until crisp; sprinkl ovr th tortlloni. rcommndd win Sangiovs di Romagna DOC Risrva Vino Vip at Cortina A high-altitud wknd was in stor for Umbrto Csari on July. Th Castl San Pitro Trm-basd win hous took part in VinoVip cortina, th binnial vnt of Italian win organisd by th Civiltà dl Br magazin at Cortina d Ampzzo, th parl of th Dolomits and capital of Italian wintr sports. Liano Sangiovs Cabrnt Sauvignon was th win of choic during th gala dinnr, whil Liano Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc 2011 was th tabl choic in som rstaurants for th gourmt dishs cratd just for th vnt and for th iconic Liano. Both wins, along with Taulto 2007, flw up to 2000 mtrs to th Rifugio Faloria for th Win Tasting dll Aquil, th tasting among th agls of th finst of Italy s wins. A high-flying triumph, as it wr, for Umbrto Csari and its wins, ambassadors of th bst of Emilia Romagna, high quality indd. for th fondu: 300 ml cram 300 g gratd Parmigiano 200 g mascarpon 50 ml Marsala VINOVIP at Cortina u m b r t o c s a r i n w s

7 l i v s a n g i o v s o n t h r o a d BALI A Gala Dinnr on 30 May at th Amanusa Rsort in Bali brought to a clos a sris of spcial vnts offrd by Umbrto Csari in collaboration with th Hotl Aman, a chain of luxurious boutiqu hotls in Southwst Asia. Liv cooking dmonstrations and tastings of Umbrto Csari s finst wins wr th componnts of vnings that attractd as gusts intrnationally-famous journalists and th sophisticatd customrs of th rnownd hotl chain. Riccardo Csari starrd as Umbr to Csari s ambassador, with Emilian chf Digo Martinlli by his sid; Martinlli, a truly invaluabl collaborator for all of th vnts in Indonsia, offrd a crativ fusion rintrprtation of Emilia Romagna s classics dishs. Th objctiv of this cycl of vnts that Umbrto Csari coordinatd with its partnrs was not only to p r o m o t a p p r - ciation of its wins worldwid but abov all to promot th rgion of Emilia Rom a g n a. Riccardo Csari at Amanusa Rsort in Bali t o a c h h i s o w n th DECANTER Bautiful, practical, or functional? Laving asid prsonal tasts, a dcantr must hav thr crucial qualitis. It must b mad of thin glass or crystal, to apprciat to th fullst th apparanc of th win; it must hav a wid body, to ncourag oxygnation of th win and sttling of any sdimnt; and finally it must hav a curvd rim, to prmit drip-lss pouring. A dcantr is absolutly ncssary for srving rd wins, such as Taulto, that hav undrgon lngthy aging; it sparats out any sdimnts that may hav formd during cllaring, and it allows th win oxygn contact and full rlas of all of its fragrancs. t h w i n s c n t a s t a b o u t w i n COLLE dl r ALbana di romagna docg Passito Albana di Romagna DOCG Passito is as nobl as th ara that yilds it, Coll dl R, a grn-clad, sun-blssd ara that is havn for th cultivation of th albana grap. Thanks to th prfct xposur offrd by this hill, th vinyards hr produc graps with vry high sugar lvls, which in turn rsults in xtraordinary passito wins. Th natural smi-drying of th graps, calld appassimnto, taks plac in spcial tmpratur- and humidity-controlld spacs with Sordato Botritys Control, a systm that maintains various lvls of humidity; this innovativ, patntd systm allows th dvlopmnt and carful control of th dsird nobl mould. This procss yilds th unusual and much sought-aftr passito win, th loqunt and classic xprssion of a long tradition. Albana Passito is, in fact, a win classic to Romagna, markd by a distinctiv fragranc of wll-ripnd apricot. o C t o b r Classification: Albana di Romagna DOCG Passito Graps: 100% Albana di Romagna Vinification: Th graps ar pickd and lft to dry out on racks thn gntly prssd. Frmntd in Allir barrls in a tmpratur controlld nvironmnt. Aging: 12 months in Allir barriqu and 6 months in bottls. Alchol contnt: 14,5% vol. Aging potntial: 10 yars Colour: Intns yllow with ambr tons. Nots: Prsistnt nots of rip apricots, in particular th typical ral di Imola varity, hony, toastd hazlnut and vanilla. Flavour: Swt, vlvty and prsistnt, with plasant hints of spics and jam. Matching to: Prfct with dry pastris but also foi gras and strong chss such as gorgonzola. d i s c o v r 7

8 For furthr information: tl: mail: and follow us CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. CE. N. 1234/07 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EC REG. 1234/07 CAMPAGNE FINANCEE CONFORMEMENT AU REG.CE 1234/07 Printd on 100% rcycld papr CERT. N. IT01/0442