MULTITEXCO. february Madmax. Textile technologies for sport. NanoItalTex 2014 INNOVATION

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1 FREE PRESS INNOVATION february 2015 INNOVATION Madmax Advanced Material Textile for reinforced Structures for Complex Lightweight Applications MULTITEXCO High Performance Smart Multifunctional Technical Textiles for the Construction Sector TECHNEWS Textile technologies for sport From clothing to service NETWORK NanoItalTex 2014 Innovation and Growth. Perspectives and opportunities for the Italian Textile & Clothing TexClubTec Viale Sarca Milano (Italy)

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3 1 EDITORIAL Aldo Tempesti Director TexClubTec Despite the international economic crisis and the increasing concern for a new worsening because of the ongoing situation in Russia, the Rouble depreciation and the decrease in oil prices, it could not be denied that a general gradual upturn is taking place concerning also textiles & clothing, and especially export-oriented companies. However, the severe bad economic situation showed how risky financial operations could not be at the basis of an economic growth. On the contrary, a strong industrial production could be a good starting point. Indeed, production leadership for industrialized countries in such a globalized world could be matched only with the concept of added value, obtained through technological innovation, balancing high production costs out. In order to give more support to the textile sector, and in particular to companies willing to build their growth strategies on innovation, TexClubTec and Sistema Moda Italia announced the birth of the National Technological Platform for Textile and Clothing, as a correspondent for the European institution. Thanks to their expertise and representative roles, both SMI and TexClubTec aim to give support to textile companies, supplying all the tools needed for an effective technological development. Technology platforms have indeed an essential role in putting industrial and research priorities together, in order to be sure that the knowledge acquired through scientific research could be converted in effective technologies and processes applicable to marketable products and services. So, willing to favor a global technological evolution of the sector and focusing on strategic issues that could favor technological development such as economic and production growth, sustainability and competitiveness, the National Technology Platform is going to start a new path divided into 3 phases: sharing of a global vision of the technological horizon to point at, definition of a strategic agenda for scientific research that points out middle and long-term objectives for technological evolution, implementation a strategic plan for research for a good mobilization of human and financial resources. It is the first time that such an authority with such objectives for Textile & Clothing has been created. We hope to be finally at a turning point for our productive sector, which has to make big efforts to take its leadership on the international market back.

4 february 2015 Managing Director: Aldo Tempesti - Managing Director of TexClubTec Design & Layout: Lorenzo Tempesti Printing: Gruppo Stampa GB S.r.l. Translation: Silvia Imbrosciano Credits: We thank Paolo Corvaglia (D Appolonia S.p.A.), Clemente Fuggini (D Appolonia S.p.A.), Giannicola Loriga (D Appolonia S.p.A.), Donato Zangani (D Appolonia S.p.A.), Jorge Corker (Instituto Pedro Nunes), Carole Magniez (Railenium) and Prof. Davide Susta (Dublin City University) for their contribution to this publication.

5 CONTENTS February IL MONDO TEXCLUBTEC 4 INNOVATION MULTITEXCO High Performance Smart Multifunctional Technical Textiles for the Construction Sector 7 Madmax Advanced Material Textile for reinforced Structures for Complex Lightweight Applications 10 StorePET Smart nonwoven thermal insulation materials for the building sector 13 WASH&LOAD A new business model for the industrial laundries based on the refunctionalisation of protective clothing during the washing cycle. 15 TECHNEWS Textile technologies for sport From clothing to service 18 Argar Technology L abbigliamento protettivo al centro della strategia europea per la ripresa economica 21 PREFER project Product Environmental Footprint Enhanced by Regions 23 STeP by OEKO-TEX Centrocot certified the first Italian company 100% sustainable 24 The textile comfort Every sense of the fabric 25 RESET Research & Innovation in the Textile of the Future 26 NETWORK NanoItalTex 2014 Innovation and Growth. Perspectives and opportunities for the Italian Textile & Clothing. 28 Sportswear Textiles Technological evolution and new market scenarios 30 Textiles, Fashion, Sustainability Interview with Massimo Mosiello, Milano Unica General Manager 31 The textile industry in South Korea Overview of the South Korean textile market and sector 32

6 4 TEXCLUBTEC WORLD EVENTS Cinte Techtextil Shanghai_ NanoItalTex 2014 Biella_ Milano Unica Milan_ ISPO 2015 Munich_ Jec Composites Paris_ Techtextil 2015 Frankfurt_ Milano Unica Milan_ A+A 2015 Düsseldorf_ ITMA 2015 Milan_ PUBLICATIONS TEX INNOVATION Released for the first time in 2008, Tex Innovation embodies TexClubTec's desire to offer a tool to monitor the evolution of application areas in the technical textile sector, that includes articles about products, production processes and new technologies. After 5 years on the field, Tex Innovation changes itself with new layout and contents, in order to satisfy the needs of a sector that becomes wider and more and more demanding every day. To see last issues of Tex Innovation, visit the related area at MONDO TESSILE Not only technical textiles! Textiles & Clothing in the Balcanic area TECNOTESSILI Special edition: Footwear textiles TEXTILEBRIEF TextileBrief is a three-montly publication focusing on textile&clothing and innovative textiles. Written in English in order to make it usable for a wider international public, it's distributed only in PDF Format and includes articles from Italian publications (Mondo Tessile - Textile&- Cloting and TecnoTessile - Technical Innovative Textiles) and other unpublished studies.

7 RESEARCH 7th Framework Programme European Commission 5 STOREPET Application area: Building Objective: Development of PCMbased innovative thermoregulating and insulating solutions for the Light-weight building sector Industrial Associations: TexClubTec - Italy;WW Slovenski Gradbeni Grozd, Gospodarsko Interesno Združenje (SGG) - Slovenia; Asociación Española de Empresas de Ingegnería, Consultoría y Servicios Tecnológicos (TECNIBERIA) - Spain; Gradjevinski Klaster Dundjer (DUNDJER) - Serbia; Small Medium Companies: Ecoterra Desarrollo Sostenibile SL (Grupo Ideo) - Spain; Construcciones García Rama SL - Spain; Devan-Micropolis S.A. Portugal; Research centres: Inspiralia S.L. - Spain; Instituto Pedro Nunes - Associação para a Inovação e Desenvolvimento em Ciência e Tecnologia (IPN) - Portugal; Centro Tessile Cotoniero e Abbigliamento Spa - Italy; Acciona Infraestructuras - Spain. Completed: October 2014 BETITEX Application Area: Protection Objective: Protective textiles against bug bites Industrial Associations: Gremi Textil de Terrassa Association Gremi - Spain; Clutex - Klastr technicke textilie - Czech Republic; TexClubTec - Italy; Asociacion de empresarios textiles de la regionvalenciana ateval - Spain; Acondicionamiento Tarrasense Association Leitat - Spain; Research Centers: Fundacion Tecnalia Research & Innovation - Spain; Small Medium Enterprises: Inotex Spol S.r.o., Silk&Progress Spol R.o. - Czech Republic; Nilka Tekstil Sanayi Ve Ticaret Limited Sirketi Nilka - Turkey; Gem Innov S.a.s. - France; Iqap Masterbatch Group S.l. - Spain. MULTITEXCO Application Area: Building Objective: Identify performance features and exploit conditions of the new generation of multifunctional technical textiles in the building sector. Industrial Association: Texclubtec - Italy; Clubtex - France; Cati Sanayici Ve Is Adamlari Dernegi - Turkey; VPI - BW Vereinigung der Prüfingenieure - Baden Württemberg - Germany; Asociacion de empresarios de la construccion, promocion y afines de la rioja - Spain. Centri di Ricerca: D'appolonia S.p.a. - Italy; Centre scientifique & Technique de l'industrie textile Belge - Belgium; Karlsruher Institut fuer Technologie - Germany; Acciona Infraestructuras S.a. - Spain; Piccole Medie Imprese: Carpro S.p.r.l. - Belgium; Selcom S.r.l. - Italy; Arimeks Mim.Müh.Ins.Ve Dis Tic L.t.d. - Turkey. WASH&LOAD Application area: Protective and Work wear Objective: Enabling an innovative and affordable multi-functionality loading service for functional protective clothing that leverage on the textile service companies while increasing safety for the operators. Industrial association: C.I.N.E.T. (Comité International de l'entretien du Textile) Netherlands; Federatie Textielbeheer Nederland Netherlands; Deutscher Textilreinigungsverbandtdtv EV; Texclubtec - Italy; Verband der Nordostdeutschen Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie EV (VTI) Germany; Universiteit Twente Netherlands. Small Medium companies: Franz Schafer Etiketten GMBH; IRIS-SW switzerland; Varo Logistic Quality Service SRL VARO Italy; WSP systems BV Paesi Bassi; D'Appolonia SPA - Italia; Research centres: Saechsisches Textilforschungsins E.V. (STFI) - Germany; Technologisch Kenniscentrum Textielverzorging TKT Netherlandst; Lavans BV Netherlands. Completed: September 2014 MADMAX Application Area: Trasports - Smart Composite Objective: Advanced Material Textile for Reinforced Structures for Complex Lightweight Applications Industrial Associations: Association Up-Tex - France; Industrieverband Garne Gewebe Technische Textilien EV - Germany; Texclubtec- Italy; Research Centers: Association pour la Recherche et le Development des methodes et processus industriels - Armines - France; Scuola Universitaria professionale della Svizzera italiana (SUPSI) - Switzerland; Technische Universitaet Dresden - Germany; Next Technology Tecnotessile Società Nazionale di Ricerca S.r.l. - Italy; Fraunhofer-Gesellschaft zur foerderung der angewandten forschung EV - Germany; Universitè de Valenciennes et du Hainaut Cambresis - France; Ecole Centrale de Nantes - France; Small Medium Enterprises: Kringlan Composites AG - Switzerland; Esi Group S.A. - France; Soliani EMC SRL. - Italy; Stratiforme Industries SAS. - France; Mipnet Industries - France. for further information on publications and previous editions please contact or visit our website

8 6 NEW MEMBERS Catapano S.r.l. Research, design, development and manufacture of professional technical protective clothing meets the specific operational requirements of each user and the foreseeable conditions of use, without neglecting the right comfort and a proper sense of aesthetics. Electrolux Italia S.p.a. Electrolux is a global leader in household appliances and appliances for professional use, selling more than 50 million products to customers in more than 150 markets every year. The company focuses its innovation on extensive consumer insight. Giottoindustrial Networking SA GiottoIndustrial Networking SA provides customers with tailormade support both in planning business strategies and in coping with technical issues. Lorenzi S.r.l. Lorenzi is a company specialized in HTR technical textiles (High Technology Research). The key products are Lyliane microfibers in two variants: Lyliane Suede and Lyliane HTR. Pontetorto S.p.a. Development and manufacture of quality fleece with high performances, industrial washable, high degree washing, no pilling, long lasting. Ricotest S.r.l. In research, inspection, testing and European conformity (CE) certification, the name of Ricotest has been associated with maximum quality and safety in the fields of fashion footwear and personal protective equipment for sport and industry since Our technically advanced test laboratories and our highly qualified technical personnel guarantee a precise, up-to-date and rapid service to ensure that products always conform to the highest quality standards. Laboratorio Lapi S.p.a. LA.P.I. is a private laboratory which has been active since 1983 in the field of industrial analysis and testing. Specialised in Fire Tests. Test and Certification lab.

9 Innovation 7 INNOVATION MULTITEXCO High Performance Smart Multifunctional Technical Textiles for the Construction Sector MULTITEXCO is a European co-funded FP7 project started in October 2013, which main objective is the definition of guidelines and best practices for the optimal use of smart textiles in the construction industry. In the last decade, considerable boost in the development of advanced textiles has been provided by a number of research and innovation projects, addressing in particular the construction sector, which represents one of the biggest markets for composite products based on technical textiles.

10 Innovation 8 Textile materials are used in construction in both ground and building structures. Unreinforced masonry structures are highly vulnerable because, being originally designed mainly for gravity loads, they often cannot withstand the dynamic horizontal loads in case of strong earthquakes. Soil structures, such as embankments, are subjected to landslides after heavy rainfalls or during earthquakes, as witnessed by the recent tragic events in the north of Italy. Hence the necessity of efficient methods and technologies for the retrofitting of existing buildings and earthworks and for the related monitoring, to possibly prevent the structural damage, is clearly evident. Examples of advanced composites for the construction sector comprise textile-based structures used for buildings rehabilitation or seismic upgrading, geotextiles used for the stabilisation of soil structures, such as railway or roadway embankments, while high performance technical textiles are used for tensile structures covering large areas, such as stadiums or exhibition areas. In all such applications the novel textile materials potentially offer a brand new functionality in addition to the main functions of the standard technical textiles, namely the possibility of monitoring the structural health of the reinforced structure. Structural Health Monitoring (SHM) techniques can be employed at different stages of the construction life, namely construction, inspection, operation, dismantling, or after a severely damaging event (like an earthquake), in order to assess the state of the structure and its remaining service life. On the other hand, as stressed by the CNR-DT 200/2012, the Italian reference normative for FRP reinforcement of civil structures, monitoring is highly advisable since there is a lack of information on long-term behaviour of this kinds of reinforcing solutions. A milestone in this sense has been the FP6 large-scale collaborative EU co-funded project POLYTECT, ended in 2010, which pushed the state of the art for technical textiles through the development of large area sensor-embedded multifunctional textiles employing fibre optic sensors for geotechnical and masonry applications vulnerable to natural hazards. One example of the POLYTECT sensor-embedded multifunctional textiles for masonry structures is the so-called Seismic Composite Wallpaper, constituted by a multiaxial textile structure featuring embedded fiber optics sensors of POF (Polymer Optical Fiber) or FBG (Fiber Bragg Grating) type. When subjected to a dynamic action, the composite structure works as a passive device able to confine the building bricks, preventing their brittle failure, absorbing part of the earthquake energy and eventually making the entire structure more ductile and resistant. On the other hand, the integrated sensors help in understanding the building behaviour before, during and after a seismic event, by providing real-time measurements which, depending on the sensor solution embedded, can be localized or distributed, static or dynamic. They can detect cracks and/or changes in the dynamic characteristics of a building, relatable to its potential progressive failure. The seismic composite wallpaper, firstly developed and tested at lab-scale level, was then validated in real conditions, applied as full-cover reinforcement of a two-storeys masonry building subjected to simulated earthquake in shaking table tests at Eucentre (Pavia). However, despite the above described benefits and potentials showed by the prototypes developed in the frame of POLYTECT, the market uptake of such solutions is not as expected and as the potential of Polytect would have deserved, mainly due to some issues still partially unsolved: the non-availability of tests methods for multifunctional textiles to provide certifications; the lack of quantification models especially for reinforcing textiles, the lack in codes and standards for multifunctional textiles (standards exist but most of them are for carbon-epoxy systems on RC); and finally the need for a knowledge transfer to companies in the construction sector to foster the practical adoption of multifunctional textiles. Moreover, without quantification of reinforcing effect textile reinforced masonry will hardly be able to compete with standard reinforcing techniques and therefore market uptake will be hardly reachable. Indeed, many building practitioners are still unfamiliar with the behaviour and the characteristics of these materials. Shortage of information to the design and construction community about use and properties (mainly long-term behaviour) of these materials limits their exploitation potential and consequently their practical adoption. Moreover, as these highly innovative solutions are derived either from modification of existing materials or from newly developed high performance textile materials, in general new codes, specifications, guidelines and standard test methods are required for the purpose of their design, use, testing and certification. In this framework, the aim of MULTITEXCO project is to support the competitiveness of the European SMEs of the construction, composites and technical textile sectors by addressing the above needs by developing scientific knowledge, testing procedures and guidelines for the design and use of the novel smart textiles and composites for the construction sector. The following textile application fields will be targeted by the project: masonry seismic reinforcement, geotechnical applications and structures. The project will address the needs of the SME members of 5 Associations throughout EU to access to the newly developed smart textiles in a more efficient, effective and profitable way. The project is coordinated by TEXCLUBTEC, the Italian association of technical textiles, and includes in the consortium also

11 Innovation 9 the Belgian association UNITEX, as well as the construction associations CATIDER (Turkey), VPI (Germany).. Moreover the project includes three SMEs, SELCOM (Italy), Arimeks (Turkey) and Maco Technology (Italy) and four RTD performers entrusted to carry out the research activities in the frame of the project: D Appolonia (Italy), Karlsruhe Institute of Technology (Germany), Acciona (Spain) and Centexbel (Belgium). In order to achieve its overall goal, the project will pursue the following main scientific and technological objectives: 1) To identify and characterize the performances of the solutions developed, through laboratory work and field tests. This activity will also lead to design and application procedures. 2) To provide a scientific basis for the new multifunctional textiles in order to favor the standardization process at the EU level, also by means of a close link with the standardization bodies, taking into account the peculiarities of the new generation of multifunctional textiles and smart composites. In this framework, of particular interest for the project will be the proposal to introduce a Seismic Certification of buildings since it could provide a clear standard where the performance, impact and benefit of innovative solutions for masonry buildings will have a fertile context. Discussions on this certification are ongoing in Italy, examples have been proposed by the orders of professional engineering of some Italian regions/province and the Ministry of transport and infrastructures is promoting a working group. Fi- nally, insurance companies are looking forward to the introduction of insurance policy for buildings based on a seismic certification. If all these actions will become reality in the near future, MULTIT- EXCO will be ahead in receiving the directives, standards and guidelines implemented. The Project results will be made available to the SME Associations by means of a collaborative web-based knowledge platform, which will include a decision support tool enabling the user to select the most suitable solutions and products according to the type of intervention, the application scenario and the cost target. At the current status of the Project, on the basis of an extensive analysis of the available solutions, as well as of preliminary laboratory tests, the systems configurations that will be further experimentally investigated are being defined for each of the target applications. In particular, for masonry application, MULTITEXCO is investigating improved solutions based on multi-axial hybrid textile structures having embedded not only optical fibers (for which specific configurations are under selection), but also additional sensors in order to enhance the performances and the monitoring capabilities of the system. For the geotechnical application, biaxial geogrids with distributed optical sensor, in-line embedded during production (Fig. 1), are being preliminarily tested (Fig. 2). Results are promising in terms of sensors accuracy and ability to detect the deformation of the geogrids. The project has received funding from the 7th F.P. of E.U. (Grant Agreement n ). TextileBrief 3-monthly publication by TexClubTec on Textiles&Clothing and innovative textiles for the international audience. Silk Flooring egulations Synthetic Apparel Fabrics Composites Clothing Natural Cotton Yarns&Fibers Technical Market Overview Treatments Application Innovation Outdoor Standards News Textiles PET Man-made Building Automotive Next Issue: Features of textile materials for sportswear applications Curtains Imports Medicale Filaments PPEs Industr Protection Underwear Exports

12 Innovation 10 MadMax Advanced Material Textile for reinforced Structures for Complex Lightweight Applications One of the priorities in transport but also others industries (building and energy) is to develop lightweight complex structures with high mechanic and quality performances, in order replace the metallic heavy pieces. In fact, the demand of energy efficient environment friendly vehicles for transport industries is increasing. Such vehicles are expected to be lightweight for less energy consumption as well as for minimum CO2 emission, high performance, reliability, recyclability, cost effective production, safety and comfort. An important issue is to reduce the material types, to enhance recycling, but without scarifying the notion of performance at affordable cost. The needs concerning composites structure is increasing; however there is still major breakthrough limit acting against their development, which are the following: high cost production, long and labor-intensive production, quality issues, lack of versatile and flexible process, tailored properties difficult to achieve with current technologies, low qualified skillness. The most advanced sector for composites is aeronautic. But the composites development is disparity according to the sector of application. For example rail is arguably behind the curves on the composites adoption compared to aerospace. Today s mainline rail vehicles tend to be extensively composite inside outside and especially structural, still mainly metal. In contrast, the latest airliners are 50% composites including their load bearing primary aero structures. Why the disparity? The rail and the air vehicles have much in common. They are both fast moving passenger carrying tubes that are prone to static and dynamic stresses plus material fatigue over long and intensive services lives. Fire is also a potential hazard in both cases so the structures have to be engineered to minimize this and also with crashworthiness in mind. Comfort is also important. The development of interior composite can be explained by the fact that they have clearly an impact on weight and on the operating costs and profits. 10% s in the mass of metropolitan rail vehicle can reduce energy consumption by 7 %, saving up to US $ annually per vehicle. So the review of the composite development is explained by the lack of knowledge about all the steps of development of composites manufacturing. The substitution of metal part for transport application requires lot of efforts, time and transversal competences to optimize the composite structures and to insure the maximal level of safety during the use. However integration of this new technology soars lot of issues regarding: - The technology to be used featuring resin, material and assemblies (laminated, honey comb, sandwiches structure); - The processability, the manufacturing and integration of the composite part into the conventional steel environment sealing, junctions. The integration study shall be based on engineering studies that have been fueling for years with date based on steel assemblies; - The mechanical properties and their modelisation approaches -fueled with new inputs based on reliable models connected to composites, whereas for metal - greater uniformity, a number of simulation tools exist; - The fire safety issue, in the frame work of the implementation of new safety standard at a European level (ex: EN ), which tends to complicate this step. The concept of MADMAX The composites offer a great potential for reducing fuel consumption and CO2 emissions, for example by contributing up to 50 % of bodyweight reduction compared to steel and at least 30% compared to aluminium. The main challenges to be faced in order to develop composite materials for the civil transport industry regard: the various manufacturing processes and structure components (constituents), their durability as well as their deformation, damage and fracture modes for instance in case of impact. Textiles can be considered as the skeleton of the composites, mathematical models predicting the textiles properties (and mechanical behaviour in the more broad sense) give more solid foundation for a priori prediction of mechanical properties of composites, allowing accounting for geometry peculiarities; industrial partners should be informed about the different possibilities to manufacture complex preform and how to use them for the realization of composite parts at acceptable cost. Related to the substitution of the aluminium or metal surface the scope to use also textile electrically conductive offer a way to achieve the same properties as metal and security application where the electronic devices are installed and the range of conductive textiles structure offer a new solution for ensure the shielding performances and electrical conductivity. One of the most promising and efficient way to fulfil the of composites in the civil transport industry is to promote solutions whose applications are already consolidated in other sectors. The choice of new composites able to replace specific parts will depend on the expected and safety requirements. Also note that study will feature composites and also hybrid assemblies (metals + polymers structures).

13 The objectives of MADMAX The objective of this project is to constitute a cluster of private and public laboratories supported by key manufacturers from aeronautic, automotive and railway sectors in order to investigate the possibility to benchmark specific composites; in extreme synthesis, the research efforts split for each single transport sector, will concern: - Aeronautic: depending on the target application and, by means of data collected from former tests and experiments, the study and identification of the best safety requirements for the new materials, as well as the detection of the most suitable range of composite materials; - Automotive: study and screening of the best manufacturing processes to produce composite parts at acceptable costs, guaranteeing the profitability of such industry; - Railways: research of the most suitable standards for structural composite materials characterization, a special care will be given to fire safety requirements. MADMAX project main scientific and technical items pertain to: - study and identification of high performance functionalized materials to realize 3D complex preforms; - research of autonomous sensor systems as well as their incorporation inside the preforms to monitor the composites structures; - development and definition of a new concept of standard not limited to materials qualification but widespread to that of composites sector actors (i.e. SMEs, LEs, universities and R&D centres); in practice all available and suitable data regarding enterprises (e.g. background, market, knowledge, competences etc.) will be collected in a database that is going to be a new tool allowing self promotion for all registered enterprises. - recognition of the most suitable advanced simulation tools for fundamental understanding of the structure/property relationship in structural composite materials for aerospace, railway and automotive sectors. Finally MADMAX ultimate goal is to promote the widespread, within the composites sector, of high performance flexible materials with significant improved mechanical behavior and integrated functions such as: structural health monitoring and self-healing of structural composite materials. MADMAX will contribute to the development of an European Know- How platform and database for excellence in polymeric high performance fibres, textile reinforcing structures (performs above all) and sensors monitored composite structures in order to foster the transfer of scientific results to civil transport market, and especially to SMEs. ites welding. Among these innovations, some developments are current and to come: Out of autoclave process, Carbon Nano Tubes (CNT), Automated tape laye-up, Self-healing composites, Large primary structures, Multi-functional structures. The consortium of Madmax has decided to participate to the constitution of association for the development of lightweight structure for transport and to prepare a road map for the development of composites at large scale. The main ways to promote the composites identified by the consortium are: Polymeric high performance fibres Textile reinforcing structures Production of 3D shaped preforms on pilot scale Hybrid assemblies Modelling system taking into account the textiles structure to understand the behaviour of composite Textile processes Include aramid fibers in composite assemblies Calculation tools and methods for crash and mechanical resistance of components using anisotropic reinforcements Fully automated and highly adaptable manufacturing system for innovative products Combine the benefits of high performance composite parts made in RTM technique and composite parts with high fire retardant properties. - Development of adapted yarns and optimisation of process to maintain the quality of yarns after the production of perform 3D - Modelling system of the behaviour of the resin through the textile during injection Qualify suitable production techniques for production of innovative textiles high volumes with regards to performance and price. Innovation 11 The consortium The MADMAX project brings together European clusters (Texclubtec, IVGT, Uptex, Railenium) with industrial ( Kringlan, ESI, JTT, Soliani) and research (UVHC department ENSIAME, NTT, TUD, FRAUN- HOFER IPT, SUPSI, ENSAIT, MINES DOUAI, Centrale Nantes) partners in 4 countries dedicated to composites materials based on Advanced Textile Materials (ATM) with a view to develop and implement a long-term joint international strategy that contributes to securing, strengthening and extending their competitiveness at the international level. Advancement of project The composites market is driven by innovation. The consortium established a technology watch on composites and on manufacturing process: Concerning resins, additives, fibres innovations are following: Low emission resins and styrene suppressant additives, Fireproof, low smoke toxicity composites, Bio resins and additives, Higher strength carbon and glass fibres, Improved prepregs, Fabrics and perform, Development of natural and recycled fibres. Concerning Manufacturing processes: Process equipment, Close-mould, Induction technology, Simulation tools, Robotics and automation, Tape placement, Development of 3D, one-shot preform processes, Compos- Standards Automonous system to monitor Correlation between virtual tool and mechanical test in concordance with end-user criteria Conductive textiles to monitor the composites for electronic or sensor connection

14 TECHNEWS 12 Leading International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens performances trends technologies solutions , Frankfurt am Main Tel in parallel with:

15 StorePET: smart nonwoven thermal insulation materials for the building sector A European research project aimed to cut down energy consumption of lightweight buildings Different manufacturing technologies were researched at lab scale, either by developing bi-component PCM-fibres systems using electrospinning and coaxial melt-spinning extrusion/injection techniques (Figure 2) and also by means of spray deposition of microencapsulated PCMs (mpcms) and flame retardant on the nonwovens matrices. The later was selected for industrial scale-up and prototype line production testing, which was conducted in the North of Portugal with the help of a renowned company (Coltec, Portugal), leader in supplying textile lamination services, direct bindings, thermo-adhesive coatings, self-adhesive coatings and films. Innovation 13 Under the currently growing role for near-zero energy buildings, innovative lightweight structures has been one of the most interesting building technologies arising. While it represents an economical alternative to traditional heavyweight constructions, the main drawback of highly insulated lightweight envelopes is still their lack of thermal mass, which unable to curb and dampen rapid and marked daily temperature swings and maintain internal comfort conditions, especially during the summer in hot regions. This quick thermal response is especially significant during the warmer seasons and responsible for indoor overheating trends, forcing the costly peak period of energy consumption to be spent upon cooling rooms during the day. The StorePET project concept was based upon the fact that potential cost savings can be achieved by smart building envelope structures having a novel fiber insulation possessing active heat storage capacities. This feature is provided by phase change materials (PCM), capable of reducing the total cooling loads and shifting the peak loads to off-peak periods. The StorePET product developed intends to be a ready-to-use and easy to install insulation blanket, made with recycled polyester fibers and enhanced with a PCM content. The embedded PCM provides thermal inertia by means of its latent heat, while keeping relatively unchanged the high thermal resistance of the original nonwoven material. The base nonwoven material chosen for StorePET were commercial polyester blankets supplied by Freudenberg Politex Srl, Italy. These panels made of recycled polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and obtained from post-consume plastic bottles were selected for their combined thermal insulating and sound absorbing base properties excellence and eco-friendly status. The base nonwoven PET panels were treated and coated with special formulated organic microencapsulated PCMs (mpcms) and flame retardants supplied by Devan-Micropolis SA, (Portugal). Before going to production, the right formulation was studied, laboratory tested and optimized in the early stages of the project work program. The right PCMs were selected based upon many different factors including, among many, indoor thermal comfort condition ranges, typical market location seasonal climates, PCMs melting/freezing phase transitions temperatures, latent heat of fusion/crystallization ranks, supercooling and stability under multiple cycles trends, etc.. Complementary, the research group was aided by dedicated modelling simulation tools also generated within the project by the research partner Inspiralia (Spain), in order to assist the right selection of the type and amount of PCM to reach the required thermal properties for different climate patterns. The trial spray deposition treatment was performed using an adapted industrial spray machine, followed by a drying and curing step inside a conventional conveyor dryer (Figure 3), showing the innovative scalability StorePET production. Treated panels were fully characterized by two of the project research partners, IPN (Portugal) and Centrocot SpA (Italy), in order to assess the thermal and physical properties of the novel insulation solution and, consequently, evaluate the effect of the PCM heat storage capacity. Hot-box tests proved to be possible for StorePET to attain up to a 33% reduction in cooling demands, when compared with similar non-additivated polyester panels, while still securing a common thermal insulation lambda value around 0.04W/mK. Following the characterization work at lab scale, the research partner Acciona (Spain) has installed the StorePET panels to evaluate its behaviour in comparison to traditional fiber blankets and to have a more in-depth demonstration of the novel PCM-fiber panel thermal and acoustic performance. Two small demo-buildings were separately insulated with

16 Innovation 14 StorePET and with traditional polyester panels having no PCM content and were left to be continuously monitored over one year, considering variables like daily outdoor/indoor temperature variation, acoustic behaviour, energy consumption and heat fluxes. To carry out the demonstrations needed, a demo park located in Alcobendas Madrid, Spain has been selected as the testing facility (figure 3). This demo park is run by the NanoE2B Cluster initiative, a continual co-operation between several European projects aiming the development of innovative materials and systems for energy efficient buildings, Supported by the Seventh Framework Program of the European Commission under the theme EeB.NMP New nanotechnology based high performance insulation systems for energy efficiency, the E2B Cluster Demo Park counts on excellent weather conditions (temperatures varying from -8ºC in Winter and 40ºC in Summer), no shadowing effects and special electric and electronic features which make demonstration easier and more reliable. After data analysis, results gathered during the testing period have shown StorePET having similar acoustic properties and much better thermal performances, when compared with the reference material having no heat storage capacities. Thermal and dynamic monitoring for the two mock-ups has demonstrated that differences in composition have a direct effect on internal temperature (room temperature) in favour of StorePET mock-up, which enhances building envelope thermal inertia. Averaged peak-to-peak field test analysis (example given in Figure 5) have revealed average internal temperature differences of around 1 C during the day and 1.5 C during the night, between the StorePET and the standard test-cells for a typical summer period. Parallel energy consumption tests made with the help of controlled cooling systems showed also that the thermal inertia improvement has a clear effect on the energy demand for cooling systems. Under this context, 128h field test examples have revealed energy consumption differences of around 40% in the electric demand for the StorePET demo building, when compared with the one having no PCM heat storage capacity skills (StorePET 826 Wh vs Reference cell 1335 Wh). These evidences coming from a real-scale demonstrations could serve StorePET product to be introduced as a reliable alternative to commercial solutions presently in the market, by being capable of showing their enhanced features with solid and scientific results obtained both in laboratory and a real-scale monitoring campaigns. Apart from being a ready to install product, a remarkable characteristic of the StorePET technology is the flexibility to produce tailor made products for different climate conditions and the versatility of its usage in virtually all lightweight building insulation applications for wall and roofs, featuring also the easiness to be cut on-site, to be bended for curve surfaces, etc.). As part of the research a second simulation tool has been developed, not only to aid in the selection of the type and amount of PCM required for different climate conditions/locations, but also to clearly attest the efficiency of StorePET in many possible building construction types, including the usage of ventilated façade systems to promote the daily charging/ discharging cycle capability of the PCM content. With a preliminary product life cycle assessment (LCA) already preformed during the project and most of the characterization needed to secure CE marking and green labelling secured, the consortium is currently considering the right partnerships for the commercialization of this novel fiber insulation and make its market entrance in specific markets in a near future. StorePET Development of PCM-based innovative insulating solutions for the light-weight building sector The research leading to these results has received funding from the European Union's Seventh Framework Programme managed by REA-Research Executive Agency [FP7-SME ], under the GA The project STOREPET is developed by a Consortium of partners from different European Countries. The Consortium is set up by 4 Industrial Associations, 3 SMEs and 4 Research centers. Industrial Associations: Slovenski gradbeni grozd, gospodarsko interesno združenje (SGG) from Slovenia; Asociación Española de Empresas de Ingeniería, Consultoría y Servicios Tecnológicos (TECNIBERIA) from Spain; TEXCLUBTEC from Italy and Gradjevinski Klaster Dundjer (DUNDJER) from Serbia. Small and Medium Enterprises: Ecoterra Desarrollo Sostenible SL, (grupo Ideo) from Spain, Construcciones García Rama SL from Spain and Devan-Micropolis S.A. from Portugal. Research Centers: Inspiralia S.L. from Spain, Instituto Pedro Nunes (IPN) from Portugal; Centro Tessile Cotoniero e Abbigliamento SPA (CENTROCOT) from Italy and AC- CIONA Infraestructuras from Spain.

17 WASH&LOAD A new business model for the industrial laundries based on the refunctionalisation of protective clothing during the washing cycle. On 30th September 2014 the FP7 European co-funded WASH&LOAD project has been completed. Three days later, after a successful final review meeting with the European Commission, the commercial exploitation phase of project results has been launched in the framework of EXPO Detergo event organized by the CINET (the international umbrella association for the textile care) and hold in Fiera Milano RHO (Milan, Italy) where TEXCLUBTEC was between the participants as member of the project Consortium. The WASH&LOAD project aimed at introducing a new paradigm in the Textile Care sector by developing a refunctionalising process for PPE. As a matter of fact, the WASH&LOAD project goal was to scientifically characterize latest achievements in science and technology for the development of Guidelines and Pre-normative research aimed at supporting the more than 20,000 SMEs involved in the functional clothing value chain in implementing cost-effective practices for reloading protective functionalities in protective clothing and textiles during life cycle. The current solution for the PPEs is a level of functionalisation that can last a predetermined number of washing cycles (e.g. 50). The PPE is supposed to be disposed after this number of cycles, independently on the real state of the equipment, although there are wide evidences that discrepancies between expected and real degradation may be substantial according to conditions of use. It may indeed be the case that protective functions have already declined before the number of standard washing cycles, because of excessive abrasion or other damages specific to end use. This drastically reduces the level of protection and furthermore exposes the employer to liabilities in case of accident or illness. The project aimed at a new product/process/service system based on a monitoring system controlling the concentration of chemicals in the bath during the re-functionalisation process ensuring that the correct level of functional agent is released on the textile; the re-functionalised garment is checked again after the process to assess the functionality level and validate the process. These elements provide the combination of a new product/process/service system, drastically extending the business model of the laundry business. Addressing these challenges was beyond the capability of a single SME and required a collective R&D effort lead by SME groupings and associations at European and national level. For this reason the WASH&LOAD consortium was composed by 14 partners including 5 SME Associations, 4 SMEs and 5 RTD Performers from 4 different European countries and it was led by the Italian engineering company D Appolonia (Project Coordinator). CINET, in her position as international umbrella organization for the textile care and Technological Knowledge Center Textile Care (TKT), in the Netherlands, had a leading role in defining the requirements for the development of the processes. D Appolonia developed the WASH&LOAD concept, together with TKT and IRIS-SW (Switzerland) replaced then by the Italian company IDP srl. University of Twente was responsible for the identification of the chemical agents able to functionalize the PPE. Federation Textile Care Netherlands (FTN) disseminated the project results and cared for trainings as well as IPR for the developed system. Deutscher Textilreinigungsverband (DTV) and VTI both from Germany had a leading role in building and spreading the project and the developed processes. Lavans and Varo srl performed a special role in the development of pilots and their validation. WSP Systems was responsible for the implementation of the textile identification system and the monitoring software. Texclubtec (Italy) with STFI (Germany) faced the standardization aspects. At the end of the project, the target objectives of WASH&LOAD have been fully achieved. Special attention has been paid during the first phase of the project in the definition of requirements and specifications for the WASH&LOAD product-service system identifying strengths and weaknesses of the current approach and physical constraints. The objective of this work has been the adaptation of the laundry process to include re-functionalisation service, privileging approaches that require the minimum modification to the existing laundry equipment in order to make easier the exploitation of the WASH&LOAD results and convenient from an economic point of view. This phase oriented the research activities during the project which have been focused on: 1) The scientific characterization of the chemical agents able to provide the targeted functionality to the PPE: the functional agents for the 3 envisaged functionalities (antibacterial, soil repellency and flame retardancy) have been selected and characterized. 2) The development of a monitoring system able to control the functional agent concentrations during the laundry process and to assess the functionality level assessment: a prototype of the monitoring system has been developed and implemented in industrial washing machines. 3) The overall reengineering of the laundry process. 4) The definition of guidelines for the implementation of the refunctionalisation process in industrial laundries for the 3 selected functionalities. 5) The development of the Knowledge based Platform as well as the of life cycle monitoring tool based on RFID technologies and able to monitor the overall process and the level of functionalisation on the PPE after the process. The aim of the web based Knowledge Management Platform and the associated Decision Support Tool is to rationalize the knowledge Innovation 15

18 Innovation 16 developed in the frame of the project in order to support the users to exploit this knowledge. The Knowledge Management Platform to be owned by the participating industrial associations, containing information about the research developed in the frame of the project, costs, performance, applicability of the different technological options, thus supporting SMEs in the selection of the most appropriate methods for their products and their production, enabling a novel business model. The sections of the Knowledge based Platform are accessible from internet by user name and password (the access is guarantee by licences) and will feature a continuously updated database of chemical products that can be used within the re-functionalisation system divided by function, application, suitable textiles etc. with the purpose (Decision Support Tool) of guiding the SMEs in choosing the most suitable functionalisation solution for each specific application. 6) The validation of the overall concept in an industrial laundry during the demonstration activities. The implementation of the WASH&- LOAD system has been carried out in the premises of the Dutch laundry Lavans where the different components of the system have been fully validated. In particular the demonstration activities have been foensure health and safety; 3) Meeting certification and quality requirements; 4) Representative look; 5) Reduction cleaning costs / effort of laundering increasing lifetime of textiles. cused on two functionalities: antimicrobial and soil repellency. Antimicrobial functionality is important because it protects against cross contamination which is one of the most important health risks in hospitals, homes for the elderly, the food industry or even the hospitality sector. In the industrial environment, soil and stains can lead to risks or even accidents or injuries. Flammable soils, chemical spills or other soiling should therefore be repelled. As far as the food sector is concerned, serving food and beverages often leads to spots and stains, which harm images of restaurants, bars and caterers, and which need washing. The lifetime of garments with soil repellency functions can be extended, because the number of washing cycles can be reduced. The last phase of the project has been devoted to the definition of the business model based on specific business cases and to the Life Cycle Cost Analysis (LCCA) aiming at demonstrating the economical sustainability of the new process/service with respect to the traditional approach. In particular, the goal of the WASH&LOAD LCCA analysis was to perform a comparative LCCA (i.e. Life Cycle Cost Analysis) among the functionalised garment washed with State of the Art (SoA) process (i.e. existing solutions) versus the Innovative process/service (i.e. functionalization process) developed within WASH&LOAD project framework. The results showed that the economical impacts of the innovative WASH&LOAD process are lower than those of the SoA process. By summing up, the general advantages of the WASH&LOAD System are: 1) One system for different functionalities; 2) Refunctionalisation; 3) Validation and quality control of performance; 4) Increase product lifetime (environmental friendly & cost reduction). As far as the Market specific advantages: 1) Safety guaranteed to meet standards to protect users 2) Hygiene guaranteed to meet standards to

19 Innovation 17 EXPERIENCE SAFETY! October 2015 Düsseldorf, Germany Safety, Security and Health at Work International Trade Fair with Congress Partner Country Republic of Korea HONEGGER GASPARE S.r.l. Via F. Carlini, 1 _ Milano Tel +39 (02) _ Fax +39 (02) _

20 TECHNEWS 18 TECHNEWS Textile technologies for sport: From clothing to service Since the times of Suzanne Lenglen, a legendary tennis player who removed her dress sleeves to ease upper limbs movements, sportswear items have been evolving to facilitate and improve athletes performances. In the last century, we have been witnessing a phenomenal evolution of textile materials aimed at improving safety, comfort and performance. As sport outfits are at the interface between human body and environment, their role of connecting two entities has been the inspiring concept in designing and developing new products and new functions.

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