The Influence of Mall Environment on Female Fashion Shoppers Value and Behaviour

Transcription

1 The Influence of Mall Environment on Female Fashion Shoppers Value and Behaviour Correspondence Richard Michon Ted Rogers School of Retail Management Ryerson University 350 Victoria Street Toronto, On, M5B 2K3 Tel: Ext Fax: Richard Michon Ted Rogers School of Retail Management Ryerson University 350 Victoria Street Toronto, Ontario, M5B 2K3 Tel: Ext Fax: Hong Yu Ted Rogers School of Retail Management Ryerson University 350 Victoria Street Toronto, Ontario, M5B 2K3 Tel: Ext 4550 Fax: Donna Smith Ted Rogers School of Retail Management Ryerson University 350 Victoria Street Toronto, Ontario, M5B 2K3 Tel: Ext Fax: Jean-Charles Chebat HEC-Montreal 3000, chemin de la Côte-Sainte-Catherine Montréal (Québec), Canada H3T 2A7 Tel: Fax:

2 The Influence of Mall Environment on Female Fashion Shoppers Value and Behaviour Structured Abstract Purpose: This paper explores how the shopping mall environment influences the shopping experience and approach behaviour of female fashion shoppers. Methodology/Approach: Female shoppers were first clustered along the fashion orientation of the stores they patronise. Shoppers response and behaviour was modelled in an invariant multigroup latent structural path analysis. Paths were initially constrained and then released as required. A total of 286 usable questionnaires were administered using a mall intercept survey method in a regional shopping centre. Participants were probed on their shopping activities, shopping mall perception, product perception, shopping value and approach behaviour toward the mall. Findings: A favourable perception of the mall atmosphere elicits a positive perception of the merchandise offering and triggers hedonic shopping experiences. The effect of the mall environment, mediated by product perception, significantly impacts the shopping objectives of middle-of-the-road female fashion shoppers. Mall atmospherics has no or little effect on the utilitarian value of low or high fashion oriented shoppers. Hedonic response of fashion forward shoppers is not stronger than that of other fashion shoppers. Research Limitations/Implications: This study was carried out in one regional mall and should be replicated to other locations and markets. A larger sample would allow the inclusion of additional constructs. Practical Implications: Mall developers and operators are not only in real estate; they are also retailers. The mall environment is central to the perception of merchandise quality, and the shopping experience. Mall operators must be aware that the middle market target group is one that is highly sought after. They should strive to create a tenant mix that satisfies the many layers of fashion shopper needs. Originality/value of Paper: This study represents a first attempt that investigates the integrated shopping experience of fashion shoppers in a shopping mall setting. It segments shoppers on their actual shopping behaviour rather than psychometrics. Keywords: shopping mall, shopping centre, female, fashion, shopper, shopping value Paper Type: Research paper

3 The Influence of Mall Environment on Female Fashion Shoppers Value and Behaviour Introduction Mall operators and retailers are recognizing more and more the positive impact of the environment on shopping behaviour (Laroche, Teng, Michon and Chebat, 2005; Stoel, Wickliffe and Lee, 2004). While malls originally served as catalysts in the growth of suburbs (Stockil, 1972) and faced little competition, they have now reached maturity and are competing with newer power centres dominated by large discount retailers and category killers (Simmons and Hernandez, 2004) and other formats for customer traffic. There has been a growth of urban entertainment centres with restaurants and cinemas (Kooijman, 2002), open air lifestyle centres with upscale national specialty stores (Hazel, 2005), and hybrids (Monroe, 2003). Developers have devised creative strategies to breathe new life into maturing malls (Bodzin, 2003; Feldman, 2004). Traditionally, mall anchor and non anchor tenants were classified in the GAFO category (i.e. general merchandise, clothing and clothing accessories, furniture and home furnishing, electronics and appliances, sporting goods, hobby, book and music, and office supplies, stationery and gift stores). With the advent of stand alone category killers and power centres, regional shopping malls are increasingly focusing on soft goods. A store count in major shopping malls in the Montreal and Toronto areas shows that more than 60 percent of non-anchor stores now specialize in apparel, accessories and footwear. And, three-quarter of these stores target female shoppers. As value oriented apparel retailers are migrating to less expensive power centres, indoor regional malls are setting their sight on branded apparel retailers. It is imperative that mall operators and tenants develop a deeper understanding of the entire spectrum apparel shoppers, including fashion-oriented, middle-of-the-road consumers, and followers, in order to provide them with a favourable shopping environment. This study investigates how female fashion shoppers process retail atmospheric cues and respond to the mall environment, thus providing insights for mall operators, retailers and marketing researchers.

4 Conceptual Framework and Research Hypotheses Cognition and Emotions The environmental psychology theory (Mehrabian and Russell, 1974) suggests that the mall atmosphere should influence shoppers mood and behavioural intentions. The theory rests on an emotional shift leading to two contrasting forms of behaviour, approach and avoidance. Approach is a desire to stay longer, explore the premises, and affiliate with other shoppers and/or sales associates, whereas avoidance is the opposite (Donovan and Rossiter, 1982). However, this classic emotioncognition paradigm has been challenged in recent years, as some researchers have failed to replicate any direct mood shifts from exposure to environmental cues (e.g. Bone and Ellen, 1999; Chebat and Michon, 2003; Spangenberg, Crowley, and Henderson, 1996). Rather, these researchers observed that atmospheric cues had a direct effect on perceptions, supporting Lazarus' (1991) cognitive theory of emotions. External and internal cues must be evaluated in terms of one's own experience and goals. "Appraisal of the significance of the person-environment relationship, therefore, is both necessary and sufficient; without a personal appraisal (i.e., of harm or benefit) there will be no emotion; when such an appraisal is made, an emotion of some kind is inevitable" (Lazarus, 1991, p. 177). In her Servicescapes model, Bitner (1992) posited that people first perceive their holistic environment and then respond with more perceptual inferences, emotions and even biological reactions. The perception-affect theory has received empirical support in retail atmospherics (Baker, Grewal, Parasuraman and Voss, 2002; Chebat & Michon, 2003) and serves as an over arching conceptual framework for the current study. Mall and Product Perceptions Researchers have argued that formal, expressive, and symbolic qualities of store environments communicate various messages to consumers and may bring about both aesthetic and instrumental value (Fiore & Ogle, 2000). Shoppers perceptions of a retail environment may also have an impact on their mood (Michon, Chebat and Turley, 2005). An effective mall shopping environment may im-

5 pact the shopping experience, and influence consumers to exhibit more approach behaviour, staying longer in the mall (Stoel, Wickliffe, and Lee, 2003). A retail environment can be an important basis for consumer s evaluation of the products (Baker, Grewal, and Parasuraman, 1994). Research suggest that ambient cues (physical aspects of store environment, such as lighting, music, colour, and display, etc.) and social cues (the perception of crowding and friendliness of employees) are important atmospheric factors that influence consumers affective states in the store environment, which in turn, impact their shopping and purchasing behaviour (Baker, Levy, & Grewal, 1992; Turley and Milliman, 2000). Further, Chebat and Michon (2003) found that consumers perceptions of the retail environment influenced their perceptions of product quality. These studies suggest that consumers mall perceptions influence their evaluations of the products available at the mall. Shopping Value Shopping value involves an interaction between a consumer and a product or service that pertains not only to the object itself, but also to the consumption experience. It involves the intrinsic and extrinsic value of the object (Holbrook, 1986). Shopping goes way beyond functional utility and task orientation (Bloch, Sherrell and Ridgway, 1986), and provides other experiential benefits and gratifications (Holbrook and Corfman, 1985). Two dimensions, utilitarian and hedonic shopping values, summarize perceived shopping value (Babin, Darden, and Griffin, 1994; Babin and Attaway, 2000). Utilitarian value reflects task-orientation, while hedonic value indicates personal gratification and self-expression associated with the shopping experience. Shopping affect was found to have a positive impact on perceived shopping value, which in turn positively influences a consumer s consistent repeat purchase behaviour (Babin and Attaway, 2000). Fashion Shoppers Fashion segmentation studies usually categorize consumers on their shopping orientation, expected benefits, and social values. Shim and Kotsiopulos (1993) classified female apparel shoppers using shopping orientation, and further developed profiles of each consumer group by information

6 used, importance of store attributes, lifestyle activities, patronage behaviour, and demographics. In this latter study, three distinctive female apparel shopper segments were identified. In the largest group -- the Highly Involved Apparel Shopper -- scored higher pm the shopping mall orientation factor, indicating that women in this group enjoyed shopping leisurely at the mall. Furthermore, this segment was deemed important to retailers, because their expenditures on clothing and accessories were the highest at the mall or specialty stores. In another study, the female apparel market was segmented according benefits expected by consumers (Shim and Bickle, 1994). Symbolic/Instrumental Users of Clothing, Practical/Conservative Users of Clothing, and Apathetic Users of Clothing emerged as the three benefit seeking segments. The Symbolic/Instrumental Users of Clothing was the largest group and was fashion-oriented, enjoyed shopping and tended to shop at upscale department and specialty stores. The other two consumers groups were not particularly engaged by shopping, and tended to be less fashionoriented. They were more likely to shop at regular department stores and discount stores, respectively. Goldsmith, Heitmeyer, and Freiden (1991) associated social values and fashion leadership in an effort to explore if social values can be used to offer insight into the motives underlying fashion purchases. They reported that consumers who processed high values of fun, enjoyment, and excitement were indeed more fashion-conscious. In addition, fashion leaders were younger, had higher clothing expenditures and shopped more often for clothes than non-fashion leaders. Instead of looking at shoppers' motivation, Bloch, Ridgway and Dawson (1994) segmented mall shoppers based on the activities consumers engaged in when in a shopping mall. Because the mall is such a focal point for fashion-oriented shoppers, our study also takes a "shopping basket" behavioural approach. Shoppers reported which stores they patronized and bought from. Later, shopping mall leasing executives rated each store along a classic/fashion-forward scale. Shoppers were then segmented on their propensity to patronize traditional or trendy apparel and footwear stores.

7 Research Objectives and Hypotheses This study explores how the shopping mall environment influences the shopping experience and approach behaviour of female fashion shoppers. In previous studies, fashion shoppers have been analyzed according to various dimensions, including shopping orientation, benefits sought, shopping value, and lifestyle in previous studies. Our study, however, takes a behavioural approach for market segmentation. This method allows us to more accurately capture fashion shoppers actual shopping behaviours, along with their emotion and cognition at the mall environment. Specifically, female fashion shoppers were classified into three groups based on the types of stores they patronized (visited and/or made a purchase). The hypotheses developed in this study are summarized as follows, working from left to right of Figure 1. [TAKE IN FIGURE 1] Research hypotheses are drawn in part from the environmental psychology theory (Meharabian and Russell, 1974; Donnovan and Rossiter, 1982), the cognitive theory of emotions (Lazarus, 1991), retail atmospherics (Baker et al, 1994 and 2002), and shopping value (Babin, Darden and Griffin, 1994). Mall Perception Product Perception H 1 : A favourable perception of shopping mall atmospherics will improve the perception of product quality among female fashion shoppers. Mall Perception Shopping Value H 2 : A favourable perception of shopping mall atmospherics will elicit hedonic shopping experiences among female fashion shoppers. Product Perception Shopping Value H 3 : A favourable perception of product quality will impact female fashion shoppers' hedonic experiences. H 4 : A favourable perception of product quality will help female fashion shoppers achieve their shopping objectives.

8 Shopping Value Approach/Avoidance H 5 : Female fashion shoppers having a positive shopping experience are more likely to adopt an approach behaviour. H 6 : Female fashion shoppers who fulfil their shopping task are more likely to engage into an approach behaviour. Fashion Orientation H 7 : Female shoppers with a high propensity for fashion buying are more likely than others to respond favourably to the mall environment. Mall Intercept Methodology The research was carried out in tightly controlled mall intercept survey. The 692,000-square foot regional shopping mall is located in the Northeast. The population in the immediate trading area is suburban multicultural middle-class. Cultural homogeneity in large North American centres is something of the past. After blocking for socio-demographic factors and family life cycle, cultural affiliation disappeared. Graduate marketing students handled the fieldwork. Some were responsible for recruiting participants as they exited from the mall. Recruiters had to meet selection criteria based on cultural balance, gender, age distribution, day of week, and time of day to avoid systematic biases. Female mall shoppers completed 268 usable questionnaires. Three quarters of apparel and accessory specialty stores in malls target female shoppers. Male shoppers have been deliberately excluded from this specific study to avoid model noise. There is empirical evidence that shows that male and female shoppers do not share similar attitudes toward fashion. For example, the Gutman and Mills (1982) fashion orientation scale administered in another shopping mall study failed to achieve structural and factor loading invariance between male and female shoppers (Michon, Smith, Yu, and Chebat, 2007). Male shoppers systematically trail female shoppers on the hedonic shopping value scale (Babin, Darden, and Griffin, 1994) as far as shopping malls are concerned.

9 Questionnaire The questionnaire contained scaled items measuring the variables under investigation: Shopping activities, mall perceptions, pleasure and arousal, shopping value, approach/avoidance behaviour, and demographics (See Table I). Shopping activities. A list of all the stores at the mall were presented by category (i.e. department stores, women s apparel, men s apparel, etc.) and the respondents were asked to indicate the stores they (1) visited and (2) where they made purchases during the shopping trip. While total spending excluding groceries was recorded, the amount of money spent in each store was not. Three shopping mall leasing executives rated 65 apparel/footwear stores on a five-point fashionability scale and a five-point price level scale. Due to significant correlation between fashionability and price level (r =.83), only the first one was included in further analysis. Interpreter convergence, using Kendall s W statistic was estimated at.6. This moderate convergence level shows that store fashion-orientation remains a subjective issue even for seasoned experts in retail. The three real estate executives also viewed fashion forward stores as relatively more pricey. Female shoppers were scored on the basis of the stores they patronized and purchased from. Aggregate scores were used to categorize shoppers into three equal cohorts: low, medium, and high fashion patronizing behaviours. Mall Perceptions. Eight 7-point semantic differential items (α =.94) were used to measure consumers perceptions of the shopping mall environment, with 1= tense, uncomfortable, depressing, drab, boring, unlively, dull, and uninteresting, and 7= relaxed, comfortable, cheerful, colourful, stimulating, lively, bright, and interesting. These items were adopted from a previous study by Fisher (1974). Product Perception. We used three 7-point items (α =.76) to measure product perception from Bellizi, Crowley and Hasty (1983). They were about the style of the products offered in the

10 shopping centre (1=outdated, 7=up to date), product assortment selection in the centre (1=inadequate, 7=adequate), and the quality of the products available in the shopping centre (1=low, 7=high). Shopping Value. The hedonic (α =.78) and utilitarian (α =.57) shopping value scale developed by Babin, Darden, and Griffin (1994) was used. The items were rated on a 5-point Likert type scale (1= strongly disagree; 5=strongly agree). Approach-Avoidance. This construct was measured with five statements (α =.74) developed by Donovan and Rossiter (1982). Shoppers were asked to indicate their agreement with the statements on a 5-point Likert type scale (1= strongly disagree, 7= strongly agree). Scale items as well as factor loading and alpha coefficients are given in Table I. Initial item selection was based on an exploratory factor analysis. [TAKE IN TABLE I] Findings and Results Research hypotheses were first tested on the complete female fashion shopper cohort, and then on each fashion propensity segment. Path relationships between latent constructs are best rendered with structural equation modelling, here EQS 6.1 (Bentler, 2004). For parsimony and noisereduction, latent SEM constructs were built from the top three or four indicators showing the highest factor loadings. Bollen (1989, p. 244) notes that there is no need to use all indicators provided measurement models have more than one ξ variable (p. 244). The aggregate structural path analysis (Figure 2) supports three of the seven research propositions. Female fashion shoppers' perception of the mall atmosphere has a positive effect on the perception of the merchandise offered in the mall (standardized γ =.571, z = 7.930). In turn, female fashion shoppers' perception of products has a significant impact on the hedonic shopping experience (γ =.68, z = 7.772), but a very marginal effect on shopping objectives (γ =.20, z = 1.733). Contrary to H 2, the

11 perception of the mall has no direct influence on female shoppers' hedonic value. Mall perception is fully mediated through the perception of the mall offering. The hedonic shopping experience of female fashion shoppers triggers an approach behaviour (γ =.429, z = 5.174). The utilitarian value construct has no direct significant effect on approach behaviour. We however do observe a significant correlation between the hedonic and utilitarian constructs (ψ =.55, z = 2.094). The two constructs do not oppose each other (e.g. Michon and Chebat, 2004; Babin and Attaway, 2000). While some task-oriented shoppers may not experience much of a hedonic shopping experience, experiential shoppers have some shopping objectives in mind. Shopping goal achievements are likely to influence experiential affects among hedonic shoppers. The aggregate maximum likelihood model shows an excellent fit (X 2 = , df = 108, CFI =.980, and RMSEA =.036). In short, the model supports research hypotheses H 1, H 3 and H 5. H 4 is supported under a 90 percent confidence interval. On the other hand, H 2 and H 6 must be rejected. [TAKE IN FIGURE 2] The three fashion oriented segments were submitted to a multigroup SEM. Initially, all indicator and structural paths were constrained to equality between the groups. Measurement or structural constraints were released only if required by the Lagrange Multiplier test under EQS 6.1 (Bentler, 2004). The multigroup standardized coefficients are described in Table II. The multi-group latent path model presents a good fit (X 2 = , df = 372, CFI =.954, RMSEA =.052). The Lagrange Multiplier test required that the equality paths between product perception and utilitarian values be released. The multi-group model underscores that the effect of product perception on shopping goal objectives is significant for medium fashion oriented shoppers (γ =.478, z = 3.491), marginally significant for low fashion oriented shoppers (γ =.297, z = 1.903), and not significant at all for high fashion oriented female shoppers (γ =.096, z = 0.705). Contrary to what had been hypothesized in H 7, high fashion oriented female shoppers are not likely to respond better to this particular mall environment. The effect of product perception on hedonic values is the same for all fashion segments. The influence of product perception on shopping objectives takes an

12 inverted U-shape (Figure 3). The indirect effect of the mall environment on fashion shoppers' approach behaviour is significant (γ = +/-.16, z = 4.464) across all fashion segments. [TAKE IN TABLE II] [TAKE IN FIGURE 3] Discussion Regional malls have been focusing more and more on fashion, and specifically on female fashion. The invariant path relationship between all latent constructs except one underscores that environmental cues are perceived and felt the same way, irrelevant of the propensity for fashion. Mall atmospherics has a significant and observable impact on fashion shoppers' behaviour. It seems that fashion forward shoppers are not responding any better than female shoppers on the low end of the fashion spectrum. Yet, one would expect a higher hedonic response and approach behaviour from shoppers who have a strong propensity for fashion. The shopping mall under study does not explicitly target any fashion segment. The mall environment and product perceptions are likely to mediate shopping goal attainments only among middleof-the-road fashion shoppers. Store selection and merchandise offerings may not meet all the needs of shoppers in the conservative/traditional and fashion forward segments. For example, shoppers who are not fashion-oriented may derive higher utilitarian benefits when shopping at mass merchandisers or power centres where value offsets fashion. Fashion forward shoppers might be better off patronizing downtown trendy stores and specialized fashion malls. Both bottom and top fashion shoppers are less likely to find what they are looking for in a typical regional mall. The mall environment and retail atmospherics may be viewed as extensions of Theodore Levitt s (1980) augmented product concept. Product attributes, packaging, display, retail atmospherics, and the mall environment are nested as matryoshka (Russian) dolls, and trigger sales. The mall becomes part of the meta-packaging of the merchandise. Packaging and display add value to the

13 product through enhanced consumer perception of quality and differentiation, increasing the likelihood of purchase and ultimately impacting sales volume and profitability. Implications and Future Research This study shows that the mall atmospherics positively influence hedonic shopping value and approach behaviour among all female shopper fashion clusters. However, the mall atmosphere only impacts the shopping goals of the middle-of-the-road fashion segment. Regional mall developers and operators must be aware that the middle-of-the market target group is one that is highly targeted. Luxury brand manufacturers are developing bridge lines and lower priced products in order to reach downward towards the middle market in an effort to increase market share and profitability (Case, 2003). Mall developers who are pursuing the medium fashion-oriented shopper should beware that they are competing with luxury brands that are pulling middle-of-the-road consumers upward and power centres that are pulling them downwards. Furthermore, the price polarization has plagued the apparel business in recent times and is predicted to continue (Retail Forward, 2005). A battle for the consumer s share of wallet is ensuing, in a highly competitive market. All of these trends make it most challenging for malls to create a tenant mix that satisfies the many layers of fashion shopper needs. Mall developers have their retail tenants best interest at heart: in addition to basic rent, they charge a percentage of retail sales. The percentage rent is an incentive to landlords who should work in the interest of existing tenants when making decisions about expansion, alterations and renewing leased space in the shopping mall (Wheaton, 2000). Mall owners and operators can help their tenants -- and themselves -- by trying to attract shoppers, increase the number of visits, extend shoppers trips, and increase the purchase per trip. The needs of fashion forward female shoppers may not be currently maximized at regional shopping malls. This is an area for future research. In addition, mall developers must carefully monitor the needs of the middle-of-the-road female fashion shoppers who are likely core shoppers in the mall; these shoppers are highly sought after due to polarization in the fashion marketplace. References

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17 Figure 1: Hypothesized Model Mall Perception H 2 Hedonic value H 5 H 1 H 3 Approach behavior Product Perception H 4 Utilitarian value H 6 Figure 2: Tested Model for three fashion cohorts Standardized Coefficients (z-value) Mall Perception Hedonic value.429 (5.174) R 2 = (7.930) R 2 = (7.772) R 2 = (2.094) Approach behavior Product Perception Utilitarian value.20 (1.733) R 2 =.04 X 2 = , df = 108, Method = ML CFI =.980, Std RMR =.048, RMSEA =.036

18 Figure 3: Standardized path coefficients between Product perception and Utilitarian value 0.5 Path Coefficients Low Medium High Fashion orientation

19 Table I: Scale Items, Factor Loadings * and Reliability Coefficients Mall Perception (Adapted from Fisher, 1974) (α =.94) Dull or Bright? Drab or Colourful? Boring or Stimulating? Unlively or Lively? Depressing or Cheerful? Uninteresting or Interesting? Uncomfortable or Comfortable? Tense or Relaxed? Perception of products (from Bellizi, Crowley, Hasty, 1983) (α =.76) Style of products offered: Outdated or Up to Date? Product selection: Inadequate or Adequate? Quality of products available: Low or High? Hedonic shopping (from Babin, Darden, and Griffin, 1994) (α =.78) Compared with other things I could have done, the time spent shopping was truly enjoyable While shopping, I felt a sense of adventure I enjoyed being immersed in exciting new products This shopping trip truly felt like an escape This shopping trip was truly a joy Utilitarian shopping value (from Babin, Darden, and Griffin, 1994) (α =.57) While shopping, I found just the item(s) I was looking for I accomplished just what I wanted to do on this shopping trip I couldn't buy what I really needed Approach behaviour (Adapted from Donovan and Rossiter, 1982) (α =.74) I like this shopping centre This shopping centre is a place where I would easily speak to a salesperson This is a kind of place where I would spend more money than expected * Derived from EFA

20 Table II: Multigroup Standardized Coefficients and Fit Statistics Dependent variables Independent variable Fashion Segment Standardized coefficients R-Square z-value Hedonic value Utilitarian value Approach behaviour Mall perception Per- Product ception Covariance Hedonic/ Utilitarian value Product Perception Per- Product ception Hedonic value Low: Medium: High: Low: Medium: High: Low: Medium: High: Low: Medium: High: Low: Medium: High: Constrained Constrained Constrained Constrained Approach behaviour Indirect effects of Mall Perception on Approach behaviour Standardized coefficients Mall perception Low: Medium: High: z-value Constrained ML Multigroup fit statistics X 2 = , df = 372, CFI =.954, RMSEA =.052