INTEGRATORE DI ACIDO GAMMA-LINOLENICO CON UN APPORTO DI 80 mg PER OGNI CAPSULA EFAGE[ INTEGRATORE DI ACIDO GAMMA-LINOLENICO

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2 INTEGRATORE DI ACIDO GAMMA-LINOLENICO CON UN APPORTO DI 80 mg PER OGNI CAPSULA EFAGE[ INTEGRATORE DI ACIDO GAMMA-LINOLENICO Olio di borragine In capsule dn g o. 5 PRODOT ro on TETlf o ATTIVO CONTRO L'ECZEMA ATOPICO ELETTIVO NELLE SINDROMI IMMUNO-ALLERGICHE DELL'APPARATO CUTANEO ATTIVO NELLE IPERCHERATOSI tt'nl mav1 La ricerca scientifica nella dermocosmesi Per campioni medici e documentazione scientifica scrivere a: MAVI SUD s.r.l. - Viale dell'industria, l Aprilia (LTJ

3 IDRO SKIN ANTl-AGE RENDE MENO EVIDENTI LE PICCOLE RUGHE INTORNO AGLI OCCHI E ALIA BOCCA, PROTEGGENDO IA PELLE DALL'INVECCHIAMENTO PRECOCE IDRO SKIN ANTl AGE

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5 DERMATOLOGIA COSMETOLOGICA A cura di P. Morganti e L. Muscardin Ed. International Ediemme Indice 1 Volume Sezione I Considerazioni Generali 1 Cenni storici 2 La bellezza della figura umana Sezione II Fisiologia e Biologia della cute 3 Sviluppo della pelle 4 La struttura della cute 5 Biochimica e Fisiologia dell'epidermide 6 Biologia del tessuto connettivo 7 Sistema Vascolare ed innervazione della cute Sezione III La Cute come organo di assorbimento 8 Nozioni basilari sulla permeabilità e su11'assorbimento 9 Membrane e assorbimento 10 Metabolismo della cute e degli annessi cutanei Sezione IV Chimica e Chimico-Fisica dei preparati topici 11 Materie prime e principi attivi di uso cosmetologico 12 Emulsioni ed emulsionanti 13 Tensioattivi di uso cosmetico 14 Gli antiossidanti e i fenomeni ossidativi dei grassi 15 Antimicrobici e preservanti cutanei 16 La profumazione dei cosmetici 17 Chimica e tossicologia dei coloranti 18 Prodotti cosmetici in aerosol Indice 2 Volume Sezione V Trattamenti dermocosmetici del viso e del corpo 19 Detersione, protezione e normalizzazione della pelle 20 La cosmesi per l'uomo 21 Cosmetici per bambini 22 Preparati per il bagno 23 Maschere e peeling 24 I Depilanti Sezione VI La cute senile 25 Invecchiamento cutaneo 26 Il trattamen!a> della cute senile Sezione VII Cosmetici e Psiche 27 Aspetti psicosomatici e somatopsichici in dermatologia cosmetologica Sezione VIlI I danni cutanei 28 Patologia cutanea da cosmetici su base immunologica 29 Danni da cosmetici Sezione IX Annessi cutanei e dermoc:osmesi 30 Ghiandole sudoripare e sebacee 31 Deodoranti e antisudore 32 Struttura e proprietà dei capelli 33 ~etersione, protezione e normalizzazione dei capelli e del cuoio capellu!a> 34 Cosmetici decorativi ad effetto duraturo 35 Le unghie 36 Prodotti decorativi ad effetto temporaneo superficiale Indice 3 Volume Sezione X Seborrea e dermocosmesi 37 Caratteristiche chimico.fisiche e funzioni fisiologiche del sebo 38 Produzione e modificazioni del sebo nel sano e nel seborroico 39 Influenza dei trattamenti cosmetologici sui lipidi di superfice del viso e dc] capillizio 40 Attività ormonale e ghiandole sebacee 41 Il problema terapeutico dell'acne 42 Possibilità terapeutiche nella seborrea Sezione XI Melanogenesi e dermocosmesi 43 Il sistema pigmentario 44 Filtri solari, pigmentanti diretti e depigmentanti Sezione XII Mucose orali e dermocosmesi 45 La salute della bocca e dei denti 46 Profilassi ed igiene dei denti e della bocca 47 Preparazioni cosmetiche per la cavità orale Se-.tione XIII Prodotti speciali 48 Omeopatia e cosmetici 49 Solu:zioni per lenti a contatto 50 Cosmetici ipoallergenici 51 Cosmesi su basi naturali Sezione XIV Trattamenti est.etici correttivi 52 Interventi correttivi di chirurgia plastica 53 Laserterapia 54 Crioterapia 55 Principi di mesoterapia 56 Ionoforesi 57 fntervcnti correttivi di camouffiagc" Sezione XV Controlli dermot.ossicologici 58 Valutazione delle materie prime e dci cosmetici fi niti 59 Controlli!A>ssicologici delle materie prime e del prodotto fi nito 60 Cosmetognosia. Funzionalità ed efficacia dei prodotti cosmetici Sezione XVI Problemi normativi e di Marketing 61 Nozioni di marketing e di pubblicità 62 Grafica pubblicitaria: implicazioni psicologiche 63 Normative di legge sui cosmetici nei vari paesi del mondo 64 La responsabilità civile dei trattamenti cosmetici 65 Giudizio medico-legale del danno estetico INFORMAZIONI PER L'ACQUISTO Il pagamento di Lit (Ccnt.oventimila) per l'acquisto del 1 volume di Dermatologia Coemetologica pub essere effettuato mediante assegni di conto corrente o per contanti indirizzandoli a: O Prenoto fin da or a i volumi 2 e 3 Con la presente richiedo: Copie n... del Volume n. 1 INTERNATIONAL EDIEMME Via Innocenzo XI, ROMA c/c bancario n Banco di Santo Spirito Ag. 23, ROMA O Invio in contrassegno O Accludo assegno n... (a pagamento quale anticipo di prenotazione) SpecificarecondizionidipagamentoefomireN" Codice Fiscale se è richies ta fattura. TIMBRO E FIRMA

6 SHAMPOO DOCCIA ANTIODORE DEODORANTE DELICATO r;pcnment 10 e mcnmonto fn17. mavi DERMATOLOGY La ricerca scientifica nella dermocosmesi Per campioni medici e Documentazione Scientifica scrivere a: MAVI SUD s.r.l. - Direzione Propagando Medica Viale dell'industria, Aprilia ILTI o E ~

7 NEO PROTEO G~L I.A BIOENERGIA NATURALE DI PRONTO INTERVENTO DERMATOLOGIA CHIRURGIA ESTETICA MEDICINA DELLO SPORT ORTOPEDIA

8 MAVI IN GINECOLOGI~ LA GIUSTA SOLUZIONE ( ~ mav1 GYNECOlOGY La ricerca scientifica nella dermocosmesi Per Campioni Medici e Documentazione Scientifica scrivere a: MAVI SUD s.r.l. - Direzione Propaganda Medica Viale dell'industria, Aprilia (L T)

9 Cosmetic Dermatology Series Editor: P. Morganti Volume 2 Every day Problems in Dermatology: The Cosmetic Connection Editors: P. Morganti, F.J.G. Ebling Every day Problems in Dermatology: The Cosmetic Connection is the second addition to the Cosmetic Dermatology Series This book is comprised of 41 previously unpublished papers dealing with research in various fields of cosmetic dermatology. The main themes covered are: inter-relationship between drugs and cosmetic in the skin; the efficacy of, and the raction to, cosmetics; cosmetics in sports and work; cosmetics in relation to sexuality and pregnancy; and finally, the interconnection existing between cosmetics and diet. By so comprehensively covering the science of cosmetics, this text is indispensable to those involved in research and development for the cosmetics, toiletries and pharmaceutical industries. It will also be a great benefit to university and hospital pharmacists and health care professionals entrusted with any aspect of skin care. CONTENTS (Main Chapters) Psycological aspects of every day cosmetic dermatology (E. Panconesi) Cosmetic, drugs and common skin disorder (W. Raab) Percutaneous absorption and lipids of the elderly skin (J. Wepierre) Mechanism of solar erythema (E. Quencez, P. Agache) The sk.in plasticisation effect of a medium chain alpha-hydroxy acid and the use of potentiators (J.C. Hill, R.J. White, M.D. Barrat, E. Mignini) Analytical problems of cosmetic evaluation resulting from EEC Jtalian regulatory procedures (L. Gagliardi, A. Amato) Kathon C.G.: risk of sensitization (A.C. De Groot) Methods for evaluating irritant - erythematogenic activity in:cosmetics (A. Sertoli, S. Giorgini, C. Martinelli, M.C. Melli) Social problems refated to perspiration: the cosmetic connection (C. Jacobson) Barriers creams (L.C. Parish) Evaluation of a new skin barrier providing water and solvent protection (P. Morganti, S.D. Randazzo) Cosmetology and sexuality in the history of gynaecology (G. Forleo, M. Fraticelli) Metabolism of steroids in human skin (A. Lanzone, A.M. Fulghesu, F.P. Bellante, A. Caruso, S. Mancuso) The stucture and permeability of the oral mucosa (A. Jarret) Oral mucosa and dental care problems (E. Benagian) Vitamins and minerai nutrition in the skin (B. Berra, S. Zoppi, S. Rapelli) Good manufacturing and quality contro] practices in the cosmetic industry (F. Pocchiari) Cosmetology and public health (L.Toti) 400 pages about - Hard-bound Price: U.S. $ I in Italy L

10 International Society of Cosmetic Dermatology PRESIDENT HONORARY PRESIDENT VICE-PRESIDENTS SECRETARY-GENERAL PROGRAM DIRECTOR BOARO OF TRUSTEES ADVISORY BOARO Coleman Jacobson (USA) William Montagna (USA) Emiliano Panconesi (Italy) Rodolfo Paoletti (ltaly) Pierfrancesco Morganti (ltaly) M. Brodie James (USA) Pie1Te Agache (France) Fritz Kempcr (Germany) Lawrence Parish (USA) W.E. Parish (England) Wolfgang Raab (Austria) Salvatore Randazzo (Italy) Hans Schaefer (France) William Abramovitz (Venezuela) Mohamed Amer (Egypt) Rubem David Azulay (Brasi!) Claude Benezra (France) I.A. Bernstein (USA) O. Binet (France) Otto Braun- Falco (Gennany) Peter Fritsch (Austria) J. Morton Gi llespie (Australia) Marwall Harahap (Indonesia) Vaino Hopsy- Havu (Finland) Stephanie Jablonska (Po land) A. Jarret (England) Jon Kabara (USA) F. Kardel Vegas (Venezuela) Ch.M. Lapiere (Belgium) Juhlin Lennan (Swedén) R.S. Lester (Canada) Howard Maibach (USA) Ronald Marks (Wales) Jose Mascaro (Spain) J.P. Ortonne (france) G.E. Pierard (Belgium) Jaime Rubin (Argentina) Wolfgang Rupilius (Germany) Raul Vignale (Uruguay) Jacques Wepierre (France) Chu-Kwan Wong (Taiwan)

11 Trimestrale di Dermatologia Cosmetologica Quarterly Review of Cosmetic Dermatology EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR ASSISTANT EDITOR SECRETARY EDITOR P. MORGANTI PhD. SECRETARY GENERAL INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY ofcosmetic DERMATOLOGY Via Innocenzo Xl Roma -(haly) - Fax 06/ S.D. RA NDAZZO M.D. ProfcssorofEXPERIMENTAL DERMATOLOGY UNJVERSITY OF CATANIA Via lacona Caiania (haly) - Fax M.B.JAMES M.D. PROGRAM DIRECTOR INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY ofcosmetic DERMATOLOGY JAMES CLJ NIC Suite 1076 Tannery Lane Camden. Maine USA - Fax M.C. PROIETTI Via lnnoccnto Xl Roma ( lta ly) EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARO P.AGACHE G. BELLOMONTE W.F. BERGFELD B. BERRA R. CAPUTO O. CARLESIMO D.CERIMELE E. O llacchierini J.COTTE M.A. DINA G. FABRIZI A. FIDANZA O. GRAFNETTER J.A. GRAHAM L. GAGLIARDI B. GUARNIERI A.J.JOUliAR F.H. KEMPER A.M. KLIGMAN N. LOPRIENO S.MAOOIN G.MAZZONE C.L. MENEGHINI \V. MONTAGNA L. MUSCA RDIN N. ORENTREICH E. PANCONESI R. PAOLETTI \V.E. PARISH L. PUGLISI W. RAAB G. RABBIOSI A. REBORA V. RIZZA G. SALVATORE A. SANNA P. SANTOIANNI H. SCHAEFER F. SERRI A.SERTOLI A.STAMMATI I. TAODEI H. TRONNIER V. VALKOVIC MD. Prof. of Dcrmat. Ccntre Hosp. Rcgional dc Bcsançon (F) CChcm. Prof. ofchcm.. Food Ocpan lst. Sup. Sani tà - Roma (I) MD. FACP Cleveland Clinic Ohio (USA) OSc. Prof. of Biol. Chcrn. Univ. of Milano {I) MD. Prof. and C haim1an. Dcpart of Dcrma1. Univ. o f Milano (I) MD.. Prof. and Chnirman Dcpan. of Derm;1t. Univ. of Romc (I) MD. Prof. and C hairmnn. Dcpart. of Dcrmat. Catholic Un iv. of Romc {I) CChcm. Prof. :md C h:1irnmn. Dcpart. Techn. of Commcrcc Univ. of Romc ( I) DSc. Prof. ofcosmct. IPIL Lyon (F) MD. Prof. :md Chairman. Dcpan. of Phatol. Anat. Caiholic. Univ. of Rome (I) MD. A~. Prof. o f P;1edriatic Dcrmatologisl. Catholic Univcrsity of Ro mc (I) DSc. Prof. ;md Chairman. Ocpart. of Physiol. Univ. of Romc (I) PhO. lnst. for Clinical and Exp. Medicine Praguc (CS) B.Sc. PhD. Dcpt Dcrmatology Univ. of Pe nnsylvania (USA) Chairman. DclXln. of Pharm. Chem. ls1. Sup. Sanità Roma (I) MD. Prof. and Chairman. Depan. of Dcrmat. Univ. of Messina (I) M.B.MRSC Bcaconsficld (GB) MD. Prof. md Chairman. Dcpan. of Pham1acol. and Tox. Univ. Munstcr (D) MD. PhD. Prof. of Dcrm llol. Univ. of Pennsylvania Philadc lphia (USA) DSc. Prof. of Genetica Univ. of Pisa (I) MD. ERCP Clin. Prof. Dcnna1ol. Div. Dcrmat. Univ. BR. Columbi11. Vancouver (C) M D. Prof. and C h:1irm::1n. Dcpan. of Phannacol. and Tox. Univ. of Catania (I) MD. Prof. and C h~1irm a n. Dcp:i.rt. of Dem1a1. Univ. of Bari ( I) DSc. Prof. of Dcrmat. Oregon He;1lt Scicncc University CUSA) MD. Emeritus Prof. of Denmu. Ccntre Hosp. Rcgional IDI Romc (i) MD. Cl in. Prof. or Ocm1a1. New York (USA) MD. Prof. and Chaim1an. Depan. of Dermal. Unh. of Fircn1.c (I) MD. Prof. and Chaim1an. Dcpan. of Pharmacol. ;md To:<. Univ. of Milano ( I) MA. PhD. BVSc. Hcad of Environment0tl Safcty Division. Unilevcr Rescarch Schan brook (08 ) DSc. Prof. of Phannacognosy Univ. of Milano (I) MD. Prof. :ind Chainn::rn. Dcpan. of Dem1at. Univ. of Wicn (A) MD. Prof. and Chairman, Depart. of Dcnnal. Univ. of Pavia (I) M D. Prof. and Chaimrnn. Dcpa11. of Dcrm at. Univ. of Genova (I) Ph.D. Prof. of Biol. Chcm. Univ. of Catania (I) CChcm. Dcp<irl. oftoxicol. ls t. Sup. Sanità Rom:i. (I) MD. Prof. and Chaimrnn. Dcpart. of Microbio!. Ca1holic. Uni v. of Roma (I) MD. Prof. and Chairman. Ocpart. or Dermat. Uni'' or Napoli (I) MD. PhO. Prof. and Chairman. Ocpan. or Pharmacol. CIRO Sophia-Anti polis Valbone (F) MD. Prof.. Dcpan. of Dcrmat. Catholic. Univ. of Roma(() MD. Assoc. Prof. of Allergie and Occupa1ional Dcnnat. Unh. of Firenze (I) OSC. Ocpart. or Toxicol. lst. Sup. Sanità or Roma (I) B.Sc.. Prof. and Chairnrnn. Dcpan. of Pharmacol. Sciencc Univ. of Siena (I) MD. Prof. and Chaim1an. Depart. of Dermatol. Stadtischen Kliniken o f Donmund (D) CChem. Prof. of Physic Ruder Boskovic' lnst. ofzagrcb ( Y)

12 GENERAL INFORMATION The JOURNAL OF APPLIED COSMETOLOGY is an international journal devoted to publisching originai papers, reviews and other materia] which represent a useful contribution to research on the skin and on cosmetics. It is aimed at cosmetic chemists, dermatologists, microbiologists, pharmacists, experimental biologists, toxicologists, plastic surgeons, and ali other scientists working on products which will come into contact with the skin and its appendages. The Journal is publisched quarterly in English. It is distributed to cosmetic chemists, dermatologists, plastic surgeons, medicai and pharmaceutical schools, medicai libraries, selected hospitals and research institutions throught the world, and by subscription to any other interested individuals or organizations. Statements and opinions expressed are persona! to the respective contributors and are not necessarily endorsed by the Editor(s), Advisers, Publishers of Distributors of this Journal. COPYRIGHT Submitted materiai must be the originai work of the autor(s) and must not ha ve been submitted for publication elsewhere. By submitting a manuscript, the authors agree that the copyright for their articles is transferred to the publisher if and when the article is accepted for publication. None of the content of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part, translated, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted or distributed in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording or otherwise) without the prior written permission of the Publishers. Sections of Journal The following sections will be features of the Journal: Originai Laboratory Studies: descriptions of originai investigative laboratory research in cosmetics and related areas. Special Reports: Items of special interest to the readers, including reports on meetings, societies, legislation, etc. Genera[ Articles: scientific articles of generai interest to our readers will be considered for publication. These articles should be concerned with newer developments in such related fields as dermatology, biology, toxicology, etc. Short Communications: the lenght should not exceed 5 typewritten pages with not more than 3 figures included. Headings ("Materials", "Discussion", etc.) as well as Summaries are to be omitted. If accepted, these submission will appear in print in a very short time. Letter to the Editor: comments on Journal articles are invited as well as brief contributions on any aspects of cosmetic science. Letters may include figures, and/or references, but brevity is necessary. Guest Editorials: concise, authoritative, substantiated commentary on specific topics of contemporary interest. Book Reviews: book and monographs (domestic and foreign) will be reviewed depending on their interest and value to subscribers. Send materiai for review to the Editor, Dr. P. Morganti. No such materiai will be returned. Address: ali papers should be submitted to: Dr. P. Morganti INTERNATIONAL EDIEMME Via Innocenzo XI, 4 l Rome - Italy Te!. 06/

13 INFORMATION FOR AUTHORS Papers must be submitted in English. Authors whose mother tongue is not English should arrange for their manuscripts to be written in proper English prior to submission. Procedure of Submission of Manuscripts: submit three copies of both the manuscript and ali illustrati ve materiai to the above address. Orga11izatio11 of the Manuscript: investigative studies should be organized as follow: title, abstract page, introduction, materiai and methods, results, discussion, acknowledgments, references, legend for figures, tables. Ali pages should be numered consecutively starting with the abstract. The entire manuscript is to be typewritten, double-spaced, and with 3 cm margins. Trade names must be capitalized: the common name for compounds may be used if the formai chemical name as established by intemational convention is given after the first use. Any abbreviations other than those which are generally accepted must be defined. In the text, references to dual authors will use both sumames throughout. For multiple authors, use the sumames of ali authors at the first reference and only the first author followed by "et al." thereafter. Please mark in the margin of the manuscript the desired position of the figures and tables. To a llow faster publication only set of proofs will be furnisched to the author including the figures and tables in their fi nal position. Title page: list the title, name(s) and degree(s) of author(s), department(s) and institution(s) at which the work was done, city, state, and postai code. Any preliminary report or abstract of the work should be referred to as a footnote to the title. Summary: each paper" must be headed by an English language title of not over 70 characters (including spaces) suitable for use as a running head and must also be proceded by an English summary not exceeding 300 words typed double- spaced. The summary will include statements of the problem, method of study, results, and conclusions. Since this summary will be used by astracting journals, it must be self- explanatory a'nd should not inlcude abbreviations, footnotes, and references. Footnotes: should be listed consecutively at the bottom of the page on which they fa ll, designated by the following symbols in order *, +, +,, II,**, etc. Key Words: key words for computeri sed storage and retrieval of information should be incorporated in the summary. References: the references have to be abbreviated as listed in the Index Medicus. The style of the references must conform to the examples given below: I) Robbins CR, Kellych (I 970) Aminoacid composition of human hair. Text Res J 40: ) Strehler BL ( 1977) Time, cells and aging 2nd edn. Academic Press, New York 3) Ebling FJ, Rook ( 1972) Ciclic activity of the follicle. In: Textbook of dermatology 11, Blackwell, Oxford, p lllustratio11s: figures should be numbered consecutively using Arabic numerals Tables should be numbered consecutively, using Roman numerals. Ali photographs should be black and whi te, glossy and unmounted. The number and size of illustration should be restricted to the minimum needed to clarify the text. Authors requiring extra space for illustrations will be charge accordingly. This is also the case for color illustrations. Ali figures, photographs, graphs, or diagrams should be submitted on separate sheets. Animai Experiments: descriptions of animai experiments should include full details of the types of animai used (inbred, etc.) and the conditions under which they were kept (standard diet, etc.) Trade Names: ali common cosmetic ingredients should be referred to by their generic names, as indicated in the latest edition of CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, and the European Pharmacopeia. If a materials is not listed, then the trademarked name can be used, with the chemical composition given in footnotes.

14 INFORMAZIONI PER L'ABBONAMENTO L'abbonamento annuale comprende quattro numeri. È possibile ottenere abbonamenti a prezzo ridotto da parte dei ricercatori che lavorano presso Istituti che abbiano sottoscritto almeno un abbonamento a prezzo normale. L'Editore potrà fornire a richiesta notizie più dettagliate. Le sottoscrizioni di abbonamento possono essere effettuate mediante assegni postali, bancari, di conto corrente o per contanti indirizzandoli a: L'IVA è a carico dell'editore, non detraibile dall'abbonato a norma art. 74 lett. C DPR INTERNATIONAL EDIEMME - Via Innocenzo XI, 41, ROMA (dc bancario n /37 Banca di Roma Ag. 123 (653) Piazza Pio XI Roma) SOTTOSCRIZIONI ANNUALI Italia L Altre Nazioni $ 60 Numero singolo L Numero arretrato L SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION Subscriptions are entered on a calendar years basis only and include four regular quarterly issues. Half-price subscriptions are available to research scientists whose institutions already subscribe at full rate. Details on application from publisher. Payment must be made in U.S. dollars using bank draft, international postai money order only. Italian residents only may pay by persona! check: INTERNATIONAL EDIEMME - Via Innocenzo XI, 41, ROMA (dc bancario n /37 Banca di Roma Ag. 123 (653) Piazza Pio XI Roma) ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION RATE: Italy, Lit Other Countries, $ 60 Additional Air Mail postage rate: $ 15 Statements and opinions expressed in the articles and communications herein are those of the author(s) and not necessarily those of the Editor(s), or publisher. The Editor(s) and publisher, disclaim any responsability or Iiability for such materiai and do not guarantee, warrant, or endorse any product or service adverised in this publication nor do guarantee any claim made by the manufacturer of such product or service

15 Quarterly Review of Cosmetological Dermatology INFORMAZIONI PER L' AB BONAMENTO L';1bbonamento annuale comprende qu;:iuro numeri. È possibile oucncrc abbonamenti a prezzo ridotto da parte dci ricercatori che la\"orano presso "tituti c he abbiano so11oscriuo almeno un abbonamento a prezzo normale. L'Editore potrà fornire a richiesta n0tiz.ie più dcnagliate. Le souoscriz.ioni di abbonamento possono essere cffonuatc mediante assegni postali. b;.incari. di conto corrcmc o per comanii indirizzoindoli a: INTERNATIONA L EDI EM~IE - Via Innocenzo Xl, Roma clc bancario n Banca di Roma Ag. 123 (653), Piazza Pio XI Roma ABBONAMENTO JOURNAL OF APPLIED COSMETOLOGY Italia L Altre Nazioni $ 60 lstndo11i per l'abbonato: O desidero abbonarmi a questa rivista per l'a11110 i11 corso O ri1111ovo a atica111e111e il mio abbo11ame1110 per gli a1111i f11111ri (questa forma di abbo11ame11to può essere co <[1te disde11a i11 og11i mo111e11to). O desidero ricevere le 11or111e editoriali per eventuali col/abom:io11i. (Scrivere i11 stampatello) No111e ~~~~~-----~~~~~-~~~~---- I ndirizzo Città Nazione CAP ~~ ~Y Quarterly Review of Cosmetological Dermatology SUUSCRIJYl'I ON INFORMAT IO Subscrip1ions are crnered on a calcndar ycar basis only and i nclude four rcgular quancrly issucs. Half-pricc subscriptions are available lo rcscarch scicntist whose institutions :ilrcady s ubsribc ;11 full rate. De1ails on applica1ion frorn publisher. Paymcm rnust be made in U.S. dollars using bank drafl. intcmational postai moncy ordcr only. llalian residents only rnay pay by pcrsonal c heck: e/e banc:1rio n Banca di Roma Ag. 123 (653), Piazza Pio Xl Roma ORDER FORM JOURNAL OF APPLIED COSMETOLOGY Ammal subscriplion rate: Italy, LiC Olher Countries $ 60 Additional Air Mail post.age r:.tl e: Africa and Middlc East $ 12. North, Centrai and South America S 14, Far Easl S 15, Oceania $ Please Check O I )'tt1r s11b.vcrip1io11 O Renew my subscription mttomaticalfy in f u111re years (1/iis co'1tù11w1io11 mrler is i11:r1emledfor subscriber S C0111'e11ie11u 011/y 011</ my be ccmcelle<i al tmy lime}. O Seud me o copy of i11fom1cllio11for A111lwrs. O Please charge this onler lo my credil carri (Al/ orrler.mbjet 10 clldit approml). Dclclc as ncccssary: O AMERICAN EXPRESS O DI ERS CLUB - Card Expir.uion date.... (Please Prim} umbcr Na111e ---~~~------~~~ ~--~~-- Address City Postal Code CountrY -----~ ~~~~----~~~~~

16 STAMP Spett. Direzione "JOURNAL OF APPLIED COSMETOLOGY" INTERNATIONAL EDIEMME Via Innocenzo Xl, ROMA (ITALY) STAMP Spett. Direzione "JOURNAL OF APPLIED COSMETOLOGY" INTERNATIONAL EDIEMME Via Innocenzo Xl, ROMA (ITALY)

17 Trimestrale di Dermatologia Cosmetologica Quarterly Review of Cosmetic Dermatology Contents Originai Laboratory Studies 71 Skin treatment with two different galenica! formulations of retinyl palmitate in humans T. Erling Generai Articles 7 7 Use and stability of liposomes in dermatologica I preparations C. Nastruzzi. E. Esposito. E. Menegatti. and P. Walde 91 Contact cheilitis G. Angelini. G.A. Vena. M. Grandolfo. C. Foti. M. Pipoli. and G. Curatoli 1 02 Book Review XIX Announcements Fourth lnternational Course on OCCUPATIONAL DERMATOSES 7 /l l June 1994

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19 J. Appl. Cosmetol (July-Septem ber 1993) SKIN TREATMENT WITH TWO DIFFERENT GALENICAL FORMULATIONS OF RETINYL PALMITATE IN HUMANS Thom Erling, Ph. D. Medstat Research Ltd. P.O. Box Lillestr0m, Norway Receveid: May 21, 1993 Key Words: Retinyl palmitate: Skin penetration: Galenica/ formulations: Skin thickness; Skin e/asticity. synopsis A randomized comparative double-blind within subject study of topical administration of two different galenica! formulations of retinyl palmitate (RP) a 2% W!W for 3 months in 20 females, caused significant changes in skin thickness and elasticity as well as in the persons self-evaluations of skin improvements following administration of a polysaccharide conjugated RP formulation. No significant changes were observed after administration of the conventional formulation. The results indicate that the topica! application of RP can bring about biochemical changes in skin quality if the neccessary hanrips are made to enhance the topica! bioavailability of RP by making the substance artificially water soluble by using a suitable "tween". Conventional RP formulations do not have a similar biologica! effect, probably due to Jack of sufficient skin penetration. Such formulations can therefore not be expected to have clinica) efficacy in the treatment of wrinkles and other aging symptoms of the skin in spite of the claims made in advertisements. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Riassunto Su venti donne è stato condotto uno studio comparato in dopppio ceco per tre mesi utilizzando due diverse formulazioni galeniche di retini! palrnitato al 2% (W!W). In una delle due formulazioni il retinil-palrnitato (RP) era legato ad un polisaccaride. RP coniugato ha provocato cambiamenti significativi sia nello spessore che nell'elasticità della cute rispetto al RP semplice. Questi cambiamenti sono probabilmente legati alla maggiore biodisponibilità della RP che, legata ai polisaccaridi, diventa idrosolubile e, quindi più attiva. RP tal quale non esplica, al contrario, questa attività perchè probabilmente non penetra sufficientemente attraverso l'organo pelle. Queste formulazioni nuove che esplicano una attività chimica controllata sulle rughe possono essere utilizzate come cosmetici attivi in tutte le forme di precoce invecchiamento cutaneo. 71

20 Skin treatment wlfh two d1fferent galenica/ formulat1ons of ret1nyl palmlfate in humans INTRODUCTION The antiaging effect on human skin after treatment with retinoic acid is convincingly documented in a number of open and controlled studies (1-4), From a tolerability point of view, however, some patients ( 4-10%) report side-effects of a dermatitis type after using retinoic acid (2). The drug may therefore be unsuitable for a number of patients for antiaging treatment. Other vitamin A derivatives, however, seem to have a better locai tolerability than retinoic acid and may be preferable from a cosmetic point of view. A number of cosmetic preparations with different derivatives have been developed and launched for the treatment of the aging symptoms. The efficacy documentation for these preparations is normally limited or Jacking. The adds, however, claim superb efficacy. Satisfactory skin penetration is a prerequisite for the clinica! effect of the actual substance. Different ester derivatives, mainly retinyl palmitate (RP) and acetate (RA), gave been utilized in cosmetic preparations (5). In order to make the RP biologically active, modifications of the solubility have to be carried out by using "tweens". In this way the substance is made artifically water soluble and can penetrate the skin. Similar techniques are aldo used for enhancing the biovailability of drugs after topica) and perorai administration (6). RP, in an active form, has been shown in animai studies to bring about biochemical changes with both epidermis and dermis (7). Parts of the action of RP in the skin may depend on its conversion to retinoic acid (8). This coversion depends on the enzymatic cleavage of the ester bonds in the retinyl to retinoic acid (9). It has been demonstrated that skin preparations can indeed convert retinyl to retinoic acid (10). Although it has been known that RP has the potential to effect a change of skin composition this potential has only to a limited extension been investigated in persons using RP preparations for cosmetic treatment of aging symptoms. In order to investigate the importance of the ga- lenical formulation for clinica! effect, we decided to carry out a comparative clinica! study of two different galenica! formulations. MATERIAL ANO METHODS T he study was carried out as double-blind within subject study in 20 fornaie persons. Each of the participants used each of the two formulations either, on the right or the left volar (protected) part of the forearm, respectively. The administration of the formulations was randomized, meaning that half of the persons used formulation A on the right arm and formulation B on the left arm and vice and versa for the other persons. The tota! treatment period was 3 months and the cosmetic formulations were applied b.i.d. (in the morning and the evening) during the study period. Cosmetic formulations The two cosmetic formulations used in the study were manufactured by Pedersens laboratorier, Yejle, Denmark, and had identica! cosmetic properties and appearances. The retinyl palmitate (Roche) concentrations in both formulations were 0.2%. The stability of the two formulations has been extensively tested. In formulation A* the retinyl palmitate is stabilized and conjugated with a "tween" in form of a complex polysaccharide, while formulation B contains unconjugated retinyl palmitate. The vehicles used in the two formulations were identica!. Measurements of skin thickness and skin elasticity The measurements of skin thickness and skin elasticity were performed by Dermascan R A using ultrasound technique and DermaflexR A instruments, respectively (Cortex Inc., Aarhus, 72