Salutations), 25. Backgammon, 3. Balart, 72. Balyan, Sarkis, 63 DJ, Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan. Bath, Turkish. See hamam

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1 178 See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below. Misir Apartmani, Pera Müzesu, Rampa, 32 Sakip Sabani Müzesi, 33 santralistanbul, 3, 32 33, 36 Taksim Art Gallery, 47 Taksim Cumhuriyet Sanat Galerisi, 31 Türk ve Islam Eserleri Müzesi, 151 TÜRVAK, 32 Art On the Gallery, 32 Askeri Müzesi (Military Museum), 38 Aslanim, 112, 114 Atatürk, Mustafa Kemal, 38, 47, 96 Atatürk Kültür Merkezi, 125 Atik Valide Külliye, 62 At Meydani (Hippodrome), 44, 68 ATMs, 166 Avrupa Pasaji, 49 Ayasofya. See Hagia Sophia Ayasofya Pensionlar, 67 Aya Triada Church, Aya Yorgi Manastir (St. George Monastery), 147 Ayder Leather, 86 Ayios Fokas Rum, 22 Ayvansary neighborhood, 55 Aznavur, Hovzep, 50 A Abdülaziz I, 49, 63 Abdülhamid II, 21, 63 Abdulla (shop), 87 Accommodations. See also Accommodations best bets, 132 maps, rates, 138 resources, 166 Ada (cafe-bar), 116 Adalar Müzesi (Museum of Princes Islands), 146 Adnan & Hasan, 85 Aa, Mehmet, 15 Ahmet 67 Ahmet III, 61 Ahrida Synagogue, 71 Air travel, 163 Akaretler galleries, 32 Akbank Sanat, 122, 125 Al-Ansari, Abu Ayyub (Eyüp Sultan), 53 A La Turca, 84 Alay 94 Alcohol, 118 Ali Textile, 85 B Alkazar Sinemasi, 47 Bab Bowling Café, 122, 129 Al-Ma mun, Caliph, 93 Bab-us Selam (Gate of Anadolu Kavagi, 17 Salutations), 25 Angelique (club), 112, 118 Babylon (music venue), Antikacilar , 127 Antiques, 61 62, 84 Backgammon, 3 Aqueduct of Valens (Bozdog Badehane (bar), 112, 114 Kemeri), 42 Bahar Korçan (shop), 86 Araf Café Bar, 127 Balart, 72 Arap Camii (Arab Mosque), Balat neighborhood, , 59 Balyan, Sarkis, 63 Archeological Park, 67 Balyan, Senekerim, 75 Architecture, Banks, 166 Arkeoloji Müzesi Banu, Valide Nur, 62 (Archaeology Museum), Bars, cafe-, Armaggan (shop), 87 DJ, Armenian Church of Three gay and lesbian, Altars (Üç Horan Ermeni 117, 120 Kilisesi), 49 restaurant, Arnoux, J.A., 50 Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Art galleries and museums, Sarniçi), 16 17, Bath, Turkish. See hamam Art on the Gallery, 32 (Turkish bath) Galerist, 31, 32 Baths of Roxelana (Haseki highlights, Hürrem Hamami), 68 Istanbul Modern, 17, 30 Kariye Müzesi, 20, Bazaars. See also Kapali Beyazit, Booksellers Bazaar, 77 Camii Kebir Sokak, 54 Dolapdere Bazaar, 4, 90 Bektas, Cengiz, 73 Benedict XVI, Pope, 50 Berg, Mike, 31 FC, 122, 129 Beta (shoe shop), 86 Bey, Osman Hamdi, 14, 30, 31 Beyazit, 4, Beyazit II, 49, 59, 77 Beyazit II Complex (Ikinci Beyazit Külliyesi), 157 Beyazit Camii, Beyazit Kulesi (Beyazit Tower), 75 Beyazit Meydani, 76 Beylerbeyi Sarayi (Beylerbeyi Palace), 22, 63 Beyoglu district, 136 Beyoglu Merkezi, 89 Bigudi (bar), 120 Bike rentals, 145, 157 Biletix, 127 Blachernae Church, 55 Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii), 7, Boat travel, 164, 165. See also Ferries Books, 77, Booksellers Bazaar (Sahaflar 77 Bora, Banu, 87 Borusan Muzik Evi, 125 Borusan Philharmonic Orchestra, 125 Bosphorus Bridge, 22 Bosphorus Cruise, 17 Bozdog Kemeri (Aqueduct of Valens), 42 Bozok, Murat, 106 Bukoleon Sarayi, 44 Bursa, Buses, 157, 164, 165 Business hours, 89, 166 Büyükada Iskele, 146 Büyüksaray Mozaik Müzesi (Mosaic Museum), 44 Büyük Valide Han, 78 COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL Büyük Yeni Han, 78 By Retro, 86 Byzantine Empire, C Cable-car. See Teleferik Çadir 21 Café 112, 116 Caferaga Medresesi, 67, 90 Çakmak, Fevzi, 47

2 179 Çakmakçilar 78 Calligraphy Museum, 76 Camii Kebir Sokak, 54 Çam Limani, Camondo, Avram, Camondo Staircase (Kamondo Merdivenleri), Çankaya Caddesi, 146 Canonica, Pietro, 47 Carpets, 85, 86, 90 Cars, 163, 164 Casa Dell Art (Misir Apartmani), 31 32, 50 Hamam, 71 Çekirge neighborhood, 152 Celebi, Evlia, 158 Çelebi, Hazerfan Ahmet, 57 Çelikkol,!inasi, 153 Cellat (Fountain of the Executioner), 25 Cell phones, 162 Cemal Rey Konser Salonu, 125 Hamam, 22 Cemil Topuzlu Açikhava, 122, 125 Chalayan, Hussein, 31 Chamber of Holy Relics (Topkapi Palace), 27 Children, activities for Aqueduct of Valens, 42 in Beyazit, 75, bowling, 129 on Constantinople tour, in Eminönü and Sultanahmet, in Eyüp, 53, 54 in Fener and Balat, 72, 73 full-day tours, 7 9, 11, 14 17, horseracing, 129 at Istiklal Caddesi, 48, 50, 51 at Karagöz Müzesi, in Karaköy neighborhood, at Maarif Caddessi, 155 at Makedonya Kulesi, 156 at Ottoman Folk Costumes and Jewelry Museum, 153 in restaurants, shopping, 84 special-interest tour, at Topkapi Palace, at Uludag, 151, 152 in Üsküdar, Chris Kami, 88 Churches. See also Mosques; Synagogues Aya Triada Church, Blachernae Church, 55 Church of St. Savior in Chora, Church of the Panaghia Kamariotissa, 145 Dominican Church of SS Peter and Paul, 57 Hagia Eirene, 25, 122, 126 Hagia Sophia, 7, 11, 44, 67, 76 Hagios Nikolaos Church, 145 Panaghi ton Mongolon, 72 St. Antoin di Padua, 50 St. George Monastery, 147 St. George s Church, Santa Maria Draperis, 50 Surp Hirestagabet Ermenikilisesi, 71 Sveti Stefan, 73 Üç Horan Ermeni Kilisesi, 49 Church of St. Savior in Chora, Church of the Pammakaristos (Fethiye Camii), 42, 72 Church of the Panaghia Kamariotissa, 145 Cigarette smoking, 115, 169 Cinema, 32 Çinili Camii (Tiled Mosque), 62 Çinili (Tiled Pavilion), 15 Cite de Pera, Classical music, Clock Tower (Saat Kulesi), 156 Clothes, 86 87, 166 Clubs, Coastline, 3 Cocoon (carpet shop), 85 Coffee, 4 Column of Porphyrogenitus (Hippodrome), 68 Concerts opera, 126 rock and jazz, 127, 128 Constantine I, 44 Constantinople, 40 44, 58 Consulates, Corridor of Concubines (Topkapi Palace), 26 Corvus Wine & Bite, 112, 114 Credit cards, 167 Cuisine, 106. See also Dining Çukurcuma, 4 Cumhuriyet Aniti (Republic Memorial), 47 Currency, 168 Customs, 167 D Dance performances, Day trips Bursa, Edirne, Princes Islands, Denizler Kitabevi, 84 Deniz Lisesi, 145 Dentists, 167 Dersaadet (cafe-bar), 3, 112, 116 Design Zone, 88 Devrim, Nejad Melih, 30 Dining. See also Restaurant best bets, 98 maps, Diramalilar Motorsiklet & Bisiklet, 157 Disabilities, travelers with, 170 Divan Yolu, DJ bars, Dogzstar (club), 112, 118 Dolapdere Bazaar, 4, 90 Dolmabahçe Sarayi (Dolmabahçe Palace), 20 21, 38 minibuses, Dominican Church of SS Peter and Paul, 57 Dondurma stalls, 38 Dösim G.E.S., 85, 90 Drugs, 167 E Edel Jewels, 88 Edirne, Edirnekapi, 41 Edirne Tourist Office, 157 Efendi, Hristaki Zografos, 48 Efes beer, 118 Egyptian Obelisk, 44, 68 Ela Cindoruk-Nazan Pak, 88 Elaidi (shop), 86 Elaidi, Mehtap, 86 Electricity, 167 Embassies,

3 180 Emergency services, 167, 169 Eminönü neighborhood, 39, Emirgan Park, 33, 96 Eski Camii (Old Mosque), 148, 157 Eski Kaplica, 152 Event listings, 127 Exchange rate, 166, 168 Eyüp, Eyüp Meydani, 53 Eyüp Sultan Heights, 55 Eyyub-el-Ensari Türbesi, 53 F Fabrics, 85, 86 Fenerbahçe FC, 129, 130 Fener neighborhood, Feray, Ayfer, 47 Ferries, 3, 17, 147, 151 Festivals, Fethiye Camii (Church of the Pammakaristos), 42 5.Kat (bar), 112, Food shopping, 87 Football clubs, 4, Fortress of Europe (Rumeli Hisari Müzesi), 4, 39 Forum of Theodosius, 76 Fossati, Gaspare, 57 Fototrek Fotograf Merkezi (Misir Apartmani), Fountain of the Executioner (Cellat 25 Freedom Square (Hürriyet Meydani), 76 French Cultural Center, 125 Full-day tours one day, 6 11 two days, three days, G Galata. See Karaköy neighborhood Galata Evi (Galata House), 57 Galata Köprüsü (Galata Bridge), 10, 39 Galata Kulesi (Galata Tower), 4, 10, 11, 57 Galata Mevlevihanesi Müzesi, 51 Galatasaray FC, 130 Galatasaray Lisesi, 49 Galeri Hediye, 85, 86 Galeri Nev (Misir Apartmani), 31 Galerist (Misir Apartmani), 31, 32 Galip Dede Caddesi, 3 garajistanbul, 122, 126 GarajistanbulPro, 126 Gate of Salutations (Bab-us Selam), 25 Gavand, Eugene Henri, 57 Gay and lesbian travelers, 117, 120, 167 Gazi, Orhan, , 151 Gazi, Osman, 53, Ghetto (club), 122, 128 Gizli Bahçe, 115 Göktug, Mete, 57 Göktug, Nadire, 57 Golden Rose (shop), 89 Gonül Paksoy (shop), 87 Gotlar Sütunu (Goth s Column), 94 Government tourist offices, 160 Gözde Musik, 84 Grand Bazaar. See Kapali Grand Synagogue, 155 Great Mosque (Ulu Camii), 149 Great Palace, 44 Greek Orthodox Patriarchate, Green Mosque Camii), 150 Green Tomb Türbe), 150 Gülbaba s Tomb, 49 Gülhane Park, 39, Carpet & Kilim House, 86 H Hafiz Mustafa, 87 Hagia Eirene, 25, 122, 126 Hagia Sophia, 7, 11, 44, 67, 76 Hagios Nikolaos Church, 145 Hamam (Turkish bath), 22, 151, 152 Handicrafts, Harem (Dolmabahçe Palace), 20 Harem (Topkapi Palace), 14, Haremlique (shop), Haseki Hürrem Hamami (Baths of Roxelana), 68 Hasircilar Caddesi, 65 Hatice Turhan Valide Sultan Türbesi, Hayal Kahvesi, 128 Health, 167 Hippodrome (At Meydani), 44, 68 Holidays, 167 Holy Angels Armenian Church (Surp Hirestagabet Ermenikilisesi), 71 Homer Kitabevi, 84 Homewear, Hor Hor Bit Pazari, 84 Horseracing, 129 Hospitals, 168 Hotels. See Accommodations Hürriyet Daily News, 127 Hürriyet Meydani (Freedom Square), 76 I Ibraham I, 8, 94 Iç Bedesten, 9 Ikinci Beyazit Külliyesi (Beyazit II Complex), 157 Imperial Gate (Dolmabahçe Palace), 21 Imperial Hall (Topkapi Palace), 26 Indigo (club), 118 Inönü, Ismet, 47 Inönü stadium, 4 Insurance, 168 Internet access, 168 Ipekci, Cemil, 88 Iskele, 22 Iskele Camii (Mihrimah Sultan Camii), 61 Ismail, Khedevi, 96 Merkezi, 3 Ismet Inönü Evi, 145 Istanbul favorite moments in, 3 4 history of, maps, 2 Istanbul Culinary Institute, 31 Istanbul Islam Bilim ve Teknoloji Tarihi Müzesi (Istanbul Museum of the History of Science and Technology in Islam), 93 Istanbul Jazz Center, 128 Istanbul Kitapçisi, 84 Istanbul Kültür Sanat Vakfi, 127 Istanbul Modern, 17, 30 Istanbul Music Festival, 126 Istanbul University, 75 Istiklal Caddesi, 11, Istiklal Kitabevi, 84 Istiklal Nostaljic Tram, J James Joyce Irish Pub, 115 Jazz, 127, 128 Jewelry, 88, 89 Jewish community, 58, 59, 71, 155 Jewish Museum of Turkey (Türk Musevileri Müzesi), 59

4 181 John XXIII, Pope, 50 Jolly Joker Balans, 119 Justinian I, 7, 43, 44, 69 K Kadiköy fish market, 3 Kadin Eserleri Kütüphanesi (Women s Library and Information Center), 73 Kafe Ara, 4 Kalenderhane Camii, 43 Kami, Chris, 88 Kamondo Merdivenleri (Camondo Staircase), Kampanaki, 47 Kanyon, 90 Kapali (Grand Bazaar), 8 9, 77 78, 89, 90, 149 Karaburçak, Ihsan Cemal, 30 Karagöz and Haciabat Monumental Grave, 153 Karagöz Müzesi, Karakedi Plak Evi, 85 Karaköy neighborhood, Kare Deri (shop), 89 Karinca (shop), 88 Kariye Müzesi, 20, Kaymakam headquarters, 146 Kennedy Caddesi, 3, 69 Kigili, 87 Kilims, 85, 86 Kiraç, Inan, 30 Kiraç, Suna, 30 Kirkpinar Evi, 155 Kiz Kulesi (Maiden s/ Leander s Tower), 63 Koç, Rahmi, 37 Kösem, Mahpeyker, 62 Kösem, Valide Sultan, 78 Koza Han, 149 Küçük Ayasofya Camii, Kukurtlu Kaplica, 152 Kumpir stalls, 22 Kurakahveci Mehmet Efendi (shop), 87 Kuum Saati, 104 K.V. (bar), 112, 115 L Leander s Tower (Kiz Kulesi), 63 Levant Koleksiyon, 84 Liquor, 118 Lodging. See Accommodations Lost property, 168 Loti, Pierre, 54, 55 Lucca (bistro bar), 112, 118 M Maarif Caddessi, 155 Magazines, 168 Mahmud II, 75 Maiden s Tower (Kiz Kulesi), 63 Mail, 168 Makedonya Kulesi, 156 Malls, Malta 21 Mapplethorpe, Robert, 31 Markets antique, Pigeon, 41 Selimiye Arasta, 158 shopping in, spice. See Misir Mehmet II, 8, 39, 43, 53, 59 Mehter band, 21 Meriç Bridge (Meriç Köprüsü), 155 Meriç Köprüsü (Meriç Bridge), 155 Metochites, Theodore, 20, 41 Metro, 165 Midnight Express, 87 Mihrimah Sultan Camii, 61 Military Museum (Askeri Müzesi), 38 Million Stone, 43 Mimar Sinan 61 Miniatürk, 36 Minibuses, Misir Apartmani, 31 32, 50 Misir (Spice Market), 3, 9, 65, 89, 90 Mobile phones, 162 Monastery of the Pantocrator (Zeyrek Camii), 42 Mongeri, Giulio, 50 Mor (shop), 89 Mor Kedi, 120 Mosaic Museum (Büyüksaray Mozaik Müzesi), 44 Mosques. See also Churches; Synagogues Arap Camii, 58, 59 Atik Valide Külliye, 62 Beyazit Camii, Çinili Camii, 62 Eski Camii, 148, 157 Fethiye Camii, 42, 72 at Ikinci Beyazit Külliyesi, 157 Kalenderhane Camii, 43 Küçük Ayasofya Camii, Mihrimah Sultan Camii, 61 at Muradiye Complex, 152 Ortaköy Camii, 22 Rüstem Camii, 9 Selimiye Camii, 158 Süleymaniye Camii, 4, 8, 75 Sultanahmet Camii, 7, Sultan Camii, 53 Ulu Camii, 149 Yeni Camii, 65 Yeni Valide Camii, 61 Camii, 150 Zal Mahmoud Camii, 54 Zeyrek Camii, 42 Movie halls, 127 Muammer Karaca Tiyatrosu, 126 Mumcu, Tayfun, 87 Muradiye Complex, 152 Murat II, 152 Murat III, 42 Murat V, 21 Museum of Ancient Orient, 15 Museum of Energy, 36 Museum of Princes Islands (Adalar Müzesi), 146 Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts (Türk ve Islam Eserleri Müzesi), 151 Music rock and jazz, 127, 128 shopping for, venues for, Muslu, Esra, 106 Mustafa II, 61 Mustafa III, 78 Muteferrika, 77 N Nadir Shah throne (Topkapi Palace), 27 Nardis Jazz Club, 128 Naval High School, 145 Neighborhood walks Beyazit s bazaars and mosques, Eminönü to Sultanahmet, Eyüp s sacred sites, Fener & Balat, Istiklal Caddesi, Tünel to Karaköy, Üsküdar, New Mosque (Yeni Camii), 65 Newspapers, 168

5 182 Nightlife bars, best bets, 112 cafe-bars and restaurant bars, clubs and DJ bars, for gay and lesbian travelers, 120 maps, Nublu (cafe-bar), 122, 128 O Oil wrestling, 156 Old Mosque (Eski Camii), 157, 158 Opera, 126 Ortaköy, Ortaköy Camii, 22 Ortaköy Craft Market, 90 Osmanli Bankasi Müzesi (Ottoman Banking Museum), 58 Osmanoglu, 3 Otherside The Club, 120 Ottoman Banking Museum (Osmanli Bankasi Müzesi), 58 Ottoman Folk Costumes and Jewelry Museum (Uluumay Osmanli Kiyafetleri ve Takilari Müzesi), 153 Outdoor activities, Özel Femer Rum Lisesi, 72 Öztarajçi, 86 P Palace Museum Collection (Saray Müzesi Koleksiyonlari), 21 Palace of Constantine Porphyrogenitus (Tekfur Sarayi), 41 Panaghi ton Mongolon (St. Mary of the Mongols), 72 Parks Archeological Park, 67 Emirgan Park, 33, 96 Gülhane Park, 39, Sultanahmet Park, 7 Tophane Park, 149 Yildiz Park, 21, 96 Haci Ivaz, 150 Koca 77 Semsi, 62 Zal Mahmoud, 54 (shop), 88 Pasha, Abbas Halim, 50 Passports, 168 Pera Müzesi, Performing arts best bets, 122 classical music, dance, maps, rock and jazz music, 127, 128 theater, Pazari Caddesi, 58 Phaeton, traveling by, 145 Pharmacies, Pia (cafe-bar), 118 Pierre Loti Heights, 55 Pierre Loti Kahvesi, 4 Pigeon Market, 41 Pistachios, 3 Police, 169 Post office, 66, 168 Princes Islands, 3, Public transport, 164 Puppetry, R Rahmi Koç Museum, 37 Reina (club), 119 Republic Memorial (Cumhuriyet Aniti), 47 Restaurants. See Restaurant Restrooms, 169 Rock music, 127, 128 Rose garden (Gülhane Park), Roxelana, 8, 68 Roxy (club), 119 Royal Carriages, 25 Rumeli Han, 47 Rumeli Hisari Müzesi (Fortress of Europe), 4, 39 Rüstem Camii, 9 S Saat Kulesi (Clock Tower), 156 Safety, 117, 169!ah (bar), 116 Sahaflar (Booksellers Bazaar), 77 St. Antoin di Padua, 50 St. George Monastery (Aya Yorgi Manastir), 147 St. George s Church, St. Mary of the Mongols (Panaghi ton Mongolon), 72 St. Nikolaos, 145 St. Stephen of the Bulgars (Sveti Stefan), 73 Sakip Sabani Müzesi, 33 Santa Maria Draperis, 50 santralistanbul, 3, 32 33, 36 Saray Müzesi Koleksiyonlari (Palace Museum Collection), 21 Schools Deniz Lisesi, 145 Istanbul University, 75 Özel Femer Rum Lisesi, 72 Science museum, 93 Sea buses, 147 Sefahathane, 116 Selamlik (Dolmabahçe Palace), 20 Selimiye Arasta, 158 Selimiye Camii, 158 Selimiye Vakif Müzesi (Selimiye Foundation Museum), 158!emsi Ahmet Külliye, 62 Serpentine Column (Hippodrome), 68 Servis (shuttle minibus), 157 Sesler, Selim, 127 Sevan Biçakci, 89 Shopping antiques and vintage, 61 62, 84 best bets, 80 books and music, carpets, kilims and fabrics, 85, 86, 90 clothes and accessories, food, 87 homewear and handicrafts, jewelry, 88, 89 maps, markets and malls, Sightseeing, 10 Sinan, Mimar, 8, 11, 61, 62, 68, 75 76, 158 Sirkeci Gari & Müzesi, Sirkeci PTT & Müzesi (Sirkeci Post Office and Museum), 66 Smoking, 115, 169 Soccer clubs, 4, Sokak, 67 Sound and Light shows, 16 Spanish Inquisition, 58 Spas, 152. See also Hamam (Turkish bath) Special-interest tours arty Istanbul, Byzantine Constantinople, for children, Topkapi Palace, Spice Market. See Misir

6 183 Spoonmaker s Diamond (Topkapi Palace), 27 Sports soccer clubs, 4, wrestling, 156 Sublime Porte, 94, 95 Sugarclub Cafe, 120 Süleyman I, 8, 11 Süleymaniye Camii, 4, 8, 75 Sultan, Emetullah Valide, 61 Sultan, Kösem, 66 Sultan, Valide Safiye, 65 Sultanahmet Camii (Blue Mosque), 7, Sultanahmet district, 7, 64 69, 136 Sultanahmet Park, 7 Sultan Camii, 53 Supper Club, 119 Süreyya Opera House, 122, 126 Surp Hirestagabet Ermenikilisesi (Holy Angels Armenian Church), 71 Sveti Stefan (St. Stephen of the Bulgars), 73 Swedish Consulate, 51 Synagogues. See also Churches; Mosques Ahrida Synagogue, 71 Grand Synagogue, 155 T Taksim Art Gallery, 47 Taksim Cumhuriyet Sanat Galerisi, 31 Taksim Maksemi (Water Distribution Center), 47 Taksim Square, 47 Tamirane (cafe), 122, 128 Taxes, 169 Taxis, 151, 165 Tekfur Sarayi (Palace of Constantine Porphyrogenitus), 41 Tek Yon (club), 112, 120 Teleferik (cable-car), 4, 54, 151, 152 Telephones, 162, 169 Theater, Theodosian walls, 55 Theodosius, 76 Theophilos, Istanbul (restaurant-bar), 31, 50, 112, 119, 120 Tickets, 127, 128 Tiled Mosque (Çinili Camii), 62 Tiled Pavilion (Çinili 15 Time Out Istanbul, 127 Time zone, in Istanbul, 169 Tipping, 169 Toilets, 169 Tomb(s), 49, of Beyazit II, 77 in Eyüp, 54, 55 Eyyub-el-Ensari Türbesi, 53 Hatice Turhan Valide Sultan Türbesi, of Mimar Sinan, Sokak, 67 Tophane Park, 149 Topkapi Dagger, 27 Topkapi Sarayi (Topkapi Palace), 14, Tourist information, Train travel, 69, 163 Tram, Transportation, 69, Treasury (Topkapi Palace), 14, 27 Tünel, Turhan, Hatice, Türker Inanoglu Foundation Cinema Theatre Museum (TÜRVAK), 32 Turkish bath. See Hamam Turkish Jockey Club, 129 Turkish language, 10, 110, Türk Musevileri Müzesi (Jewish Museum of Turkey), 59 Türk ve Islam Eserleri Müzesi (Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts), 151 TÜRVAK (Türker Inanoglu Foundation Cinema Theatre Museum), 32 U Üç Horan Ermeni Kilisesi (Armenian Church of Three Altars), 49 Ulu Camii (Great Mosque), 149 Uludag (mountain), 151, 152 Uluumay, Esat, 153 Uluumay Osmanli Kiyafetleri ve Takilari Müzesi (Ottoman Folk Costumes and Jewelry Museum), 153 Urart (shop), 88 Üsküdar, V Valens viaduct, 16 Valide Han, 9 Veliefendi, 122, 129 Veysel, 95, 96 Vintage items, 84 Visas, 170 Vodina Caddesi, 72 W Walking around, 166 Water Distribution Center (Taksim Maksemi), 47 Weather, 162 Whirling Dervish Ceremony, 51, 122, 126, 127 Wilhelm II, 68 Wine, 118 Women, 170 Women s Library and Information Center (Kadin Eserleri Kütüphanesi), 73 Wrestling, 156 Y Yeni Camii (New Mosque), 4, 65 Yeni Kaplica, 152 Yeni Valide Camii, 61 Yerebatan Sarniçi (Basilica Cistern), 16 17, Camii (Green Mosque), 150 Ev, 116 Türbe (Green Tomb), 150 Yildiz Palace, 96 Yildiz Park, 21, 96 Yildiz Porcelain Factory & Museum, 21 Yildiz Sarayi Palace, 21 Yoros Castle, 17 Z Zal Mahmoud Camii, 54 Zeyrek Camii (Monastery of the Pantocrator), 42 Zincirli Han, 9 Accommodations A jia, 132, 135 Anemon Galata, 135 Ansen 130, 135, 136 Ayasofya Konaklari, 136 Büyük Londra Otel, 136 Çiragan Palace Kempinski, 21, 136 Dersaadet, Eklektik Guest House, 132, 137 Erboy Hotel, 137 Four Seasons Hotel, 67, 132, 137, 140 Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus, Galata Residence, 58, 132, 138 Hanedan, 138 Hotel Empress Zoe, 132, 138

7 184 Photo Credits Hotel Niles, 132, 138 Hotel Sapphire, 139 The House Hotel, 139 Lush Hip Hotel, 139 Marigold Thermal & Spa Hotel, 151 Marions Suites, Marmara Pera Hotel, 106 Mavi Ev (Blue House), 132, 140 Mövenpick, 132, 140 Peninsula, 132, 140 Pera Palace Hotel, 101, 132, 140 Pera Tulip Hotel, 140, 141 Radisson Blu Bosphorus Hotel, 132, 141 Safran Otel, 151!ebnem, 141 Shangri-La, 140 Side Hotel & Pension, 141 Sirkeci Konak Hotel, 132, 141 Sumahan on the Water, 132, 141 Tan Hotel, 132, 142 Villa Zurich, 142 W Hotel, 32, 132, 142 Witt Istanbul Suites, 132, 142 Ev, 116, 142 Restaurants Agatha, 98, 101 Asitane, Bab-i Hayat, 9, 102 Balikci Sabahattin, 98, 102 Balkan Piliç Lokantasi, 158 Banyan, 102 Boncuk, 102 Börekci, 72 Borsa, 102 Büyükada Kultur Evi, 147 Caferaga Medresesi, 67, 90 Cakiraga Cay Evi, 41 Canim Cigerim, 98, 102 Çapari Arif, 103 Cezayir, 103, 112, 116 Çiya, 98, 103 Dai Pera, 98, Doga Balik, 103, 142 Dogatepe Cafe & Restaurant, 117 D Or, 151 Dubb, 98, 103 Erenler, 77 Eyüp Sultan Meydani, 53 Feriye Lokantasi, 98, 104 Haci Baba, 104 Hala, 98, 104 Hamdi et Lokantasi, 104 The House Café, 104, 117 Hünkar, 104 Istanbul Culinary Institute, 31, 104 Istanbul Modern Cafe & Restaurant, 104 Kafe Ara, 98, Kanaat Lokantasi, 61 Karaköy Balikciar 59 Kariye Pembe 20 Kebapci Iskender, 153 Konyali, 26, 67 Kule Cay Bahcesi cafe, 39 Kurucu Ali Baba, 8 Lale Bahçesi, 75 Leb-i Derya, 105, 118 Lokanta, 105 Lokanta Helvetia, 98, 105 Lucca, 112, 118 Malta 21 Markiz Patisserie, 50 Mekan, 105 Melekler, 106 Mikla, 106 Mimolett, 98, 106 Mistanbul, 63 Moreish, 106 Müzedechanga, 107 Nu Teras, 107, 119 Otantik, 107 ottosantral, 33, 36 Özsüt, 48 Pano!eraphanesi, 115, 116 Pierre Loti Kahvesi, 54 Pitti, 135 Poseidon, 107 Protokol Evi, 156 Rumeli, 107 Rumeli Iskele, 107!ar, 108 Seasons, 108 Set Üstü Çay Bahçe, 95 Sirkeci Balikcisi, 108 Sofyali, 98, 108 Sunset Grill & Bar, Tarihi Haliç Istanbul, 31, 50, 112, 119, 120 Topaz, 98, 109 Vefa Bozacisi, Vogue, 98, 109 Yeni Camii Parki, 65 Yücetepe Kir Gazinosu, 147 Zeyrekhane, 42 Zuma Istanbul, 109 Photo Credits Front cover (L-R): Shutterstock; Steve Hodder / Fotolibra; James Sparshatt / Axiom. Back cover: Peter Chambers / Alamy Images. All images: Emma Levine with the following exceptions: Courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel: p 137 bottom. Courtesy of IKSV Archives: p 121. Courtesy of Lush Hotel: p 139. Courtesy of Moevenpick Hotel: p 132. Istanbul Modern: p 30. Neil Setchfield / Alamy: p 16 bottom. Rebecca Erol / Alamy: p 31. sean sprague / Alamy: p 126. Sunset Grill & Bar, Istanbul: p 109. Yildirim Celik: p 33 bottom, p 87, p 98, p 108, p 149 p 153.

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