Calling All Angels. The Renaissance capital has HAPPY 2006!!!

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1 Anno 1 numero 23 - Firenze FREE COPY HAPPY 2006!!! Duomo s First Face Revealed Will Tomba s Gold Shine on Rocca? An Equestrian Dream Come True in Florence by Kara Hoffman Strong Women Wear Violet: An Interview with Vivia Ferragamo by Gillian Kirkpatrick see pg.4 see pg. 7 see pg. 19 see pg. 20 Calling All Angels Florence campaigns to reunite volunteers of 1966 flood NEW YEAR S RESOLUTIONS: RING OUT THE OLD, BRING ON THE BEEF What awaits Florence and its inhabitants in 2006 A call to all Mud Angels has been made by the city of Florence. To commemorate the 40th anniversary of the devastating Arno River flood of 1966, various initiatives will be organised throughout 2006 in order to locate the thousands of volunteers who helped save the city s artistic heritage. Countless numbers of artworks and books risked ruin when the city centre was covered in water and mud after the Arno overflowed its banks on November 4th However, they were rescued by volunteers who arrived from all over the world to lend a hand in what seemed an impossible job. Tuscans were overcome by the international response. Notable world figures like Edward M. Kennedy and Richard Burton made pleas for aid, while hundreds of students arrived to wade through the muck in search of lost treasures. One of the most memorable rescues was that of the hundreds of young people who swarmed to the National Library, braving freezing, waist deep waters to remove the thousands of volumes of books and manuscripts located on lower level archives, which had been completely submersed. In a recent press release announcing the event, Environmental and Territorial City Councillor, Erasmo see pg. 3 The Renaissance capital has filled its streets with lights and its piazzas with events to celebrate the holidays and ring in the New Year. But what does the future hold for the city the day after the festivities are over, and for the year to come? There are many important and complex issues that will demand attention, such as budget cuts, traffic and pollution, cultural and social changes, renovation and renewal of artistic heritage, to name just a few. see pg. 3

2 2 WHERE CAN I FIND THE FLORENTINE? FIRENZE Bars, cafes, restaurants Ari s Diner, Art Bar, Bar Anna Bagel Point, Bar on the River, Bar Torini, Cibreo, Danny Rock Restaurant, Darvish Café, EBY S segui la rana, Finnegan Irish Pub, I Visacci art caffè, J.J. 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JUST SUBSCRIBE TO THE FLORENTINE NOW Did you know that Knight Frank has five offices in Tuscany and Umbria? FIESOLE Albergo Villa il Sorriso, APT Fiesole Tourist Offi ce, B & B Le cannelle, B & B Le scalette, Caffè al N 5, Caffè Aurora, Enoteca La Sosta del Rossellino, European University, Georgetown University, Hotel Villa Bonelli, J.J. Hill Pub, Ostello della Gioventù, Villa le Balze PRATO Accademia Britannica di Prato, APT Prato, Art Hotel, Badiani Studio, Comune di Vaiano, Fotoclub Il Bacchino, Hotel Datini, Hotel Flora, Hotel San Marco, Libreria Marzocco, Monash University, Polimoda Prato, Punto Giovani Europa, Studio BGS & Partners, Università Popolare, URP di Prato, International English Academy, Residence Manassei, Wallart Whether you are buying, selling, restoring or in need of estate management advice, you will always find a local Knight Frank agent close at hand. 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3 via santa maria 32r Firenze tel. fax editore Azimuth s.r.l. direzione: via dei Fossi 14c Prato direttore responsabile Fabiana Ceccarelli Managing Editor Nita Tucker News Editor Carla Rossi Features Editor Linda Falcone Contributing Editors Marco Badiani, Elia Della Chiesa, Giovanni Giusti, Antonio Lo Iacono Sarah Beck, Tony Tucker graphics and layout Leo Cardini - Cathy Gale agilelogica.it printer La Marina, Calenzano (Fi) iscrizione al ROC (reg. degli operatori di comunicazione) n reg. trib. di Prato trasmessa il 19/04/05 News Calling All Angels Florence campaigns to reunite volunteers of 1966 flood continued from pg. 1 D Angelis, touchingly stated, The many different languages spoken by the Angels was a sign of life and hope for Tuscans in those dramatic hours. More than a thanks and a memory, this appeal launched by Florence, is also an occasion to remind us of how much still needs to be done to render Florence and Tuscany safe areas. Though major projects have been accomplished to improve control of high waters and eventual flooding, the Arno is still a potential problem. This past November, river levels became alarmingly high in the city after several days of hard rain. The city and region hope that with the anniversary, in addition to being able to thank their guardian angels, they will also be able to put the spotlight back on this long-standing issue that has yet to be resolved. The hunt to contact all of those involved in 1966 has now officially begun. The Mud Angels will be invited to return to Florence for the event, November 3-5, For more information on the appeal: continued from pg. 1 NEW YEAR S RESOLUTIONS: RING OUT THE OLD, BRING ON THE BEEF Possibly the most important upcoming change for Florence in 2006 will actually happen on January 1 st, when the much adored bistecca fi orentina will once again become legal. The t-bone cut steak that Florence is so well known for was outlawed several years ago due to the Mad Cow disease epidemic. Now, with its impending return, gourmands, butchers, and citizens are all abuzz and in preparation to welcome it back. From rumoured mass barbeques in piazza Signoria to evenings devoted entirely to the bistecca (like that of famed Tuscan butcher Dario Cecchini, To Beef or Not to Beef at The Lounge on January 10 th ), Florence is set to welcome back one of its most beloved culinary traditions with much pomp and circumstance. On a more serious note, there are other initiatives that are set to go into effect in the new year. As budget proposals for the upcoming year are fi nalised and turned in, funding has become the main concern of city offi cials in this period. If the funds allotted to the New Year s celebrations are anything to go by, then it could be a signal of future economic problems for the city (due to recent federal funding cuts for local governments.) After budgets were determined, local offi cials realised it would not be possible to offer the numerous events of years past, and even an appeal for aid from private investors was left unanswered. New Year festivities have been largely toned down this year, with the city offering only one free public music concert in piazza Signoria. This does not mean that cultural activities are set to become nonexistent. An impressive show on Arnolfo di Cambio (see Duomo s First Face Revealed, pg. 4) and a massive initiative to commemorate the 40 th anniversary of the 1966 Arno River fl ood (see Calling All Angels, pg. 1) are two events that demonstrate a commitment to continued investment in cultural programs. During his yearly holiday greeting, the city s mayor even made a promise to devote more energy to cultural issues in 2006 (see Mayor Brings it Home, pg. 4). Another big issue that Florence is determined to face in the upcoming year, is the city s problem with traffi c and pollution. While future solutions to traffi c congestion and consequential pollution (like the Tramway currently under construction and recent budget approval for expanding bike paths throughout the city) are still a long way off, a more immediate measure has been taken. As of January 1st 2006, all cars that fall into the Euro 0 category will be permanently banned from entering the city limits. According to European norms, cars in this category have highly polluting emissions. A car s category is marked on its registration forms, and for those who may fi nd themselves owning a Euro 0 model and unable to afford a new car, incentives are being offered by the city of Florence to convert these automobiles into less polluting vehicles. For more information on the new restrictions go to the city s website at and click on the Trasporto e Viabilità link. Various cities within the province of Florence are adopting this measure, so it will be important to read carefully all yellow ZTL signs posted at city limits to verify the new traffi c limitations that begin with the New Year. So it seems that 2006 is set to be a year of change for Florence. 3 Florence NEWS Table of CONTENTS FLORENCE NEWS Calling All Angels New Year s Resolutions: Ring out the Old, Bring on the Beef Duomo s First Face Revealed Mayor Brings it Home Coca Cola Gets Thumbs Down Sweet Tooth Snubs Supermarkets NATIONAL NEWS US Marine Under Investigation for Murder Desire to Douse Scandal Fires up Bank Familiar Territory for Berlusconi..Under Investigation SPORT NEWS Fiorentina Sees Stars in their Future Will Tomba s Gold Shine on Rocca? TOP PICKS & CALENDAR OF EVENTS Events Highlights UP CLOSE & PERSONAL Moira McFarland, British Consul General CULTURE & CUSTOMS ITALIAN VOICES: A Window on Language and Customs in Italy The Undershirt Police THE ARTS Mythologica et Erotica: Enchanting Ancient Myths and their Erotic Legacy TRAVEL & LEISURE A Day in Livorno An Equestrian Dream Come True in Florence STYLE & FASHION Strong Women Wear Violet FOOD & WINE Tiny Bubbles: Champagne to Toast the New Year Over the Tuscan Stove: Out With the Old USEFUL NUMBERS CLASSIFIED ADS

4 4 Florence NEWS News News in BRIEF Foreigner s Request to Vote Florence Mayor Domenici, who is also President of the Mayor s Association (ANCI), presented an official request to parliament to accept a proposed law allowing foreign residents to vote in local elections. The law would permit non-italian citizens who have been legally residing in Italy for at least 5 years to vote in administrative elections. Sales Hit Florence Big Time on Jan 7 The offi cial date for winter retail sales has been announced. Merchandise in Florence will be discounted from January 7 to March 7. The dates are determined by regional norms and require that retailers display the original price, the percent discount, and the new discounted price. Major discounts, often as much as 40-80%, can be found everywhere including the outlets. Hannibal s Bridge Rebuilt The ancient and crumbling medieval bridge that was once used to cross the Arno River by the military leader Hannibal during his crusade to conquer the Romans over 2000 years ago will soon be rebuilt. The Province of Florence together with the Communes of Incisa, Val d Arno and Reggello have allotted the necessary funding for a project to reconstruct the stone bridge that was partially destroyed during the devastating Arno fl ood of Baghdad Bookworms in Florence Library Five librarians from Iraq have begun an internship at the Biblioteca Nazionale in Florence to study techniques on how to restore damaged books and manuscripts. Organised by the Italian non-profi t group Un Ponte per and supported by the Tuscany Region, the project hopes that the skills learned by these librarians can be used to help restore the main library and archives of Baghdad, which have been severely damaged since the outbreak of war in Fires, fl oods, and looting have caused inestimable losses for Iraq s cultural heritage. Museums Open January 2 Museum superintendent, Antonio Paolucci, announced that the Galleria degli Uffi zi, Galleria dell Accademia, and the Galleria Palatina at Palazzo Pitti, will open their doors from 8.15 to on Monday 2nd January. All other museums will respect the normal closure schedule for the entire day. Duomo s First Face Revealed Creator of Cathedral s Original Façade is Celebrated Arnolfo di Cambio was one of the artists who gave Florence the beautiful look which we see today. An architect and sculptor, Arnolfo claims credit for some of the city s top monuments including the Duomo, Palazzo Vecchio, Santa Croce, as well as numerous other works in many churches and museums marked the 700 th anniversary of the death of the famed artist and, as a finale to the commemorations, a large exhibition titled Arnolfo, At the Origins of the Florentine Renaissance was recently opened to much acclaim at the Museo dell Opera del Duomo. The exhibition includes over 100 works by Arnolfo, many of which are on loan from museums and private owners from around the world. The Duomo museum, where the exhibition is located, has dusted off its entire collection of Arnolfo s During his annual holiday greeting to Florence s citizens, Mayor Domenici announced some of the issues he will be giving particular attention to next year. He emphasised the significance of culture and how it is an important card to play to re-launch Florence in the right direction both socially and economically. Domenici noted that One of the most negative aspects of this year has been, above all, connected to the economic situation: even our territory, although economically solid, has suffered from the general situation of the country but in these months there have been comforting signs of an upturn: I am referring in particular to the presence of tourists, and acquisitions made this Christmas season, both of which are growing sectors. He announced the creation works, including the original 13 th century façade of the Church of Santa Maria Del Fiore, better known as the Duomo. For the first time since it was dismantled in the 1500 s, it has been reassembled and mounted on a wall that spans over 25 metres inside the museum. Though the entire façade no longer exists, large parts of the original Gothic design can be admired in this breathtaking display. The Madonna on Throne with Child that makes up the central lunette of the façade, was, for centuries, a source of great pride for Florentines, attracting attention far and wide for the Madonna s glass eyes whose sparkle led her to become the centre of much mystical lore. The exhibition will remain open throughout the holiday period, closing on New Year s Day. Mayor Brings it Home Domenici s holiday speech stresses culture and economy of a Cultural Foundation as proof of concrete moves being made to further promote cultural activities. Social cohesion was another theme that Domenici pointed to as vital for the city to confront. Two of the most important aspects are finding resources for the numerous elderly who live alone but are unable to sustain themselves, and the growing instability and uncertainties that youth face today. TUSCANY TRIES TOKING UP Medical marijuana use explored Regional offi cials are set to propose a law allowing for the experimentation of the therapeutic use of marijuana at the start of the New Year. The law would offer medical researchers a chance to experiment with the therapeutic use of marijuana for illnesses like Multiple Sclerosis and Glaucoma. Proposed by the Green Party and supported by the majority DS Party (Democratici di sinistra), it follows a motion to allow research on the benefi cial effects of marijuana already approved a year and a half ago. If this latest measure is approved the results of the research will move on to an experimental phase.

5 News 5 Florence NEWS Coca Cola Gets Thumbs Down The Olympic torch hits hurdles in 7 Tuscan towns Along the path of the Olympic torch through Italy (with final destination Winter Olympics Turin 2006) there have been some tough hurdles for the flame, even at one point managing to blow it out completely. Demonstrators lined the streets alongside celebrators in Florence, Lucca, Massa, and Pisa to protest the sponsorship of the flame by the Coca Cola Company. According to protestors, the Coca-Cola Company should not be allowed to represent an event that symbolises peace and unity. It has been revealed that the company is responsible for the brutal treatment and murder of several union workers In those days, a film poster had to be an eyecatcher to work, otherwise no one would stop to look at it or enter the cinema. These are the wise words of Silvano Campeggi, better known as Nano, who, in the realm of cinematographic advertising, is an Italian institution. The 82 year-old Florentine is the artist who made post-war Italy dream with his posters of that period s Hollywood successes like Casablanca, Singing in the Rain, Ben Hur, and Gone with the Wind. The images Italians had of Hollywood s top actors and films, were crafted by Campeggi s hands. An exhibition opened recently in Florence to honour his contributions. The show, located in the bank, Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze, in Via Bufalini 6, includes an array of paintings of Hollywood stars of the in plants in Columbia. Several local city officials in regions throughout Italy announced that they would not allow the Olympic torch to pass through their cities and towns if the flame continued to be sponsored by Coca-Cola. The Olympic organising committee, however, insisted that it would absolutely not change the course of its torchbearers, and that some sort of other compromise would have to be worked out. Rome s mayor, Walter Veltroni, had stepped in to try and quell the situation by meeting with representatives of the Coca-Cola Company. They had agreed to allow an inspection of Coca-Cola s plants in Columbia sometime after March The investigating group would be comprised of an international coalition including the Columbian union SINATRAIAL, which began the initial boycott against Coca-Cola after its members had been victims of kidnappings, death threats, legal accusations and the 8 murders. Tuscan activists, however, seemed to have been unsatisfied with this agreement and continued to protest the flame s passage throughout the region. Escape to Hollywood Silvano Campeggi s film posters on display 40 s and 50 s, including Marilyn Monroe, Ava Gardner, Rita Hayworth, Elizabeth Taylor, and Sofia Loren. Campeggi worked primarily for Metro Goldwyn Meyer and over his long career produced over 3,000 cinema posters. He still teaches drawing two hours a week at the Architecture Department of the University of Florence, and is already organizing another exhibition at the Uffizi that will include his paintings of historically important Florentine women. SWEET TOOTH SNUBS SUPERMARKETS Boom in holiday sales at Tuscan pastry shops To the delight of pastry shop owners, Tuscans have returned to their habit of buying local artisan desserts for the holiday season. In fact, the sales of sweets have risen by 35% compared with last year. In recent years, local shops had suffered a decline in patronage while supermarket chains had noted an increase in acquisitions of traditional holiday desserts. Supermarkets offering industrially produced Panettone and Pandoro at a fraction of the price that they are sold for in local shops was an appealing discount for families that had begun to pinch their pennies during a diffi cult economic period. But it is possible that after a recent period of scandals, with investiga- The annual River to River fi lm festival is always an event that draws large crowds to the small Florentine theatre that hosts it, and this year was no exception. Four days of viewings of the latest fi lms at Cinema Spazio Uno from up and coming Indian directors were interspersed with discussions by some of the directors themselves and special presentations of Pier Paolo Pasolini s fi lm Notes for a Film on India ( ), in which the famed director fi lmed the city of Mumbai and its poverty, and Calcutta (1969) by Louis Malle. The theatre s café, which usually serves espresso and snacks, was taken tions into toxic ink in Nestle s mass produced baby food and accusations of rotten eggs being used in industrial scale sweet production, people may be rethinking their consumption habits. Although a few cents are saved, consumers may be realising that a slight discount is actually a high price to pay if taste and quality are not included in this cost. Aldo Cursano, President of the Tuscan commercial association Fipe-Confcommercio, stated that this increase in consumption of artisan products is signifi cant because it signals a return to quality. He went on to say that this is hopefully a reversal of the global trend of consumer preference for mass produced goods. FLORENCE INDIAN FILM FESTIVAL VOTES BEST FILMS over by an Indian restaurant from Fiesole and served local delicacies that could be acquired at exceptionally reasonable prices. The event closed with an award ceremony for the fi lms chosen by festival goers. Top fi lm: Sof Haolam Smola (Turn Left at the End of the World) by Avi Nesher. It recounts a story of cultural confusion and clashes between Indian, British, and Moroccan citizens in a small town in Israel. Runners up were Hari Om by Bharatbala and Amu by Shonali Bose. Clips of the winning fi lms can be viewed at www. digichannel.net <http://www.digichannel.net/>.

6 6 National NEWS News in BRIEF Speed Traps Harder to Escape A new device called Tutor, will soon be employed by Italian police to catch speeding motorists. The system is capable of measuring the average speed of a car from 25 kilometres away. If the car exceeds the limit by more than 5%, a fi ne is immediately sent to the vehicle s owner. The equipment has already been installed on four northern Italian motorways, and will eventually be installed on 50 sections of motorway throughout Italy during Since stricter speed control measures went into effect fi ve years ago, deaths on Italy s motorways have fallen by half. Lottery to Raise Olympic Gold In a last minute attempt to save the- Turin Olympics from running out of funds, the Italian Ministry passed a decree to allot 24 million euros from lottery earnings to the ailing committee. Minister Giulio Tremonti agreed to a scratch card initiative that is predicted to bring in much needed funds to keep the 2006 Olympic Games in Turin from going bankrupt. Grappa Granted Protection Italy s most popular liquor, Grappa, has been recognised with a European Union seal of approval. The strong spirit from northern Italy has earned a certifi cate ensuring the exclusive use of the name, heartening Italian producers who have long been injured by competition from foreign imitation products using the same title. Grappa is a liquor distilled from the pulpy mass of skins, pits, and stalks left in the wine press after the juice from the grapes has been extracted to make wine. Foreigners Multiply in Italy The number of foreigners legally residing in Italy continues to grow. Currently at three million, the foreign population has increased by over one million in four years. In just a decade, the number of children born to non- Italian parents has increased from 8,000 to 49,000. Italy s Campari Turns To Whisky Legendary liquor brand Campari recently acquired three Scottish whisky brands in a deal worth 130 million euros. The company stated it was buying Glen Grant, the world s second-biggest single malt whisky brand, as well as Old Smuggler and Braemar whiskies, but the acquisition still needed European Commission approval. Under the deal, it will take control of the whisky distillery in Morayshire, Scotland, where Glen Grant is produced. With Santa, Came the Flu, Too It has been predicted that the height of the fl u season will coincide precisely with the holidays this year. Between 3 and 5 million people in Italy will be hit with the virus. Not particularly virulent this year, victims will have the usual symptoms of sore throat, fever, and cold. News US Marine Under Investigation for Murder Italian intelligence conflicts with US findings United States marine Mario Lozano is now formally under investigation in Italy for the murder of an Italian intelligence agent in Iraq last March. Intelligence officer Nicola Calipari was killed on March 4th when US troops at a temporary roadblock opened fire on a car carrying him, another agent and released hostage, journalist Giuliana Sgrena, to Baghdad airport. A joint investigation by Italian and US military experts failed to reach a joint conclusion; while the American members cleared the soldiers of all responsibility, the Italians blamed the US s lack of organisation. The Toyota Corolla in which Calipari and the other two were travelling came under friendly fire at a temporary roadblock manned by ten US soldiers on their first day of service. Ballistic evidence gathered from the car by Italian experts indicated that only one weapon had been fired. American authorities had never replied to Italian investigators repeated requests for the names of the soldiers at the roadblock. But thanks to a youth in Bologna, who Familiar Territory for Berlusconi Under Investigation New conflict of interest charge involving television company accidentally discovered how to reveal blocked information from a computer, the Italians were able to identify Lozano. The names of the soldiers at the roadblock apparently had been blacked out by US officials. According to the American investigation, the car was travelling at high speed, about 80kph, and the driver panicked. US military claimed the driver failed to stop or slow down when soldiers flashed a spotlight, shone a green laser onto the car s windscreen and fired warning shots. The US claims the soldiers stuck to the rules of engagement for this sort of situation and therefore no action should be taken against them. They also noted they had not been informed of Calipari s mission. However, Italian General Mario Marioli said he did alert the US liaison officer in Iraq 20 minutes before the car came under fire that the car carrying the released hostage was heading for Baghdad airport. In addition, the agent driving the car told Rome prosecutors that the car was travelling at 70kph when it hit a ditch and slowed down. Also, both the agent driving and Giuliana Sgrena, told investigators that the spotlight came on and the shots started at the same time, without any warning. The two Italians involved in the joint enquiry refuted the claim that rules of engagement were respected, arguing that there were no set procedures for the mobile blocking point which the soldiers had set up and that probably the US soldiers were under stress and inexperienced. Italy s competition authority has begun an inquiry into Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi over a possible conflict of interest regarding digital TV decoders. It came shortly after Brussels launched a similar investigation on Wednesday into the Italian state s payment of 200 million euros to subsidise the boxes. Investigators will decide whether the subsidies unfairly aid Berlusconi s television company, Mediaset. The prime minister has faced a number of corruption accusations in the past, and this latest probe is looking to clarify whether there was a conflict of interest in regards to funding set aside in the budget for the purchase of decoders. Berlusconi s office refused to comment on the investigations. However, the day after the inquiry began the Prime Minister launched a hard attack against his critics during his end of the year speech. DESIRE TO DOUSE SCANDAL FIRES UP BANK Italian government says it is close to agreeing on a new Bank of Italy governor to replace Antonio Fazio The resignation of Mr Fazio, former Bank Chief, was formally accepted on Tuesday and his successor will be appointed according to new rules just approved by the Italian cabinet. The cabinet agreed to change the central bank chief s lifetime post to a six-year term, with the post renewable only once after that. Mr Fazio resigned after a fi ve-month banking scandal that shook Italy s political establishment. He is accused of favouring an Italian bank in a domestic takeover battle and faces a probe into insider trading. The scandal surrounding the takeover had threatened to damage international confi dence in Italy s banking sector. Despite his decision to quit, Mr Fazio continues to deny all accusations against him, including that he behaved improperly when deciding to recommend a bid for Italy s Banca Antonveneta by Banca Popolare Italiana over Dutch rival ABN Amro. His position had weakened further after prosecutors in Milan revealed they were investigating him for alleged insider trading. The government has come under pressure to fi nd a quick replacement for Fazio after Italy s opposition leader, Romano Prodi, a former European Commission president who will lead an alliance of centre-left parties in the general election next year, said the country faced a power vacuum in its banking industry. Possible nominees to fi ll the role of Bank of Italy governor include former European Central Bank executive board member, Tommasso Padoa-Schioppa and former European Union competition commissioner Mario Monti, who has already refused the position. Prime Minister Berlusconi is confi dent that a candidate will be agreed upon in the very near future. In the meantime, Italy s central bank is currently being headed by Mr Fazio s deputy, Vincenzo Desarie. It is generally agreed that Mr Fazio s resignation was a positive step, which will give Italian industry more transparency.

7 Sports Fiorentina Sees Stars in their Future While team rests, managers plan new acquisitions Florence s Fiorentina chalked up yet another victory (1-0 against Palermo) in its last game before the Serie A Championship went on break for the Christmas holidays. The team is now in 4th place on the classification table, a ranking that was unimaginable when the season began. With 36 points earned, it follows closely behind the league s strongest teams - just one point behind Milan, two behind Inter, and less than 10 points away from leading Juventus (40 points). While the games may have stopped for the holidays, football news continues with the official opening of the player acquisition and trading market on January 2. Unofficial negotiations have already begun and Fiorentina is to acquire several interesting players, in partic- new skiing star A has won the hearts and dreams of Italy. Hopes are that he will emulate the success of Alberto Tomba, insuring that the 2006 Olympic slalom gold stays with the host country. Reminding many of Tomba s past victories, Giorgio Rocca managed to crush the opposition at a recent competition at Kranjska Gora in Slovenia, increasing his wins to three in a row after the season s opening races at Madonna di Campiglio and Beaver Creek. Rocca finished the two legs at the Slovenian resort 0.66 seconds ahead of second-placed Thomas Grandi of Canada, a huge winning margin for the event. As in his previous two wins, the Italian was trailing Austrian star Benjamin Raich after the first leg, but was able to exert maximum pressure on his rival during the second. The tactic paid off as Raich pushed himself past his limit and off piste, as he did at Beaver Creek. At Madonna di Campiglio, Raich again made a decisive mistake by trying to catch Rocca. Rocca now has nine slalom victories and has surpassed the legendary Gustavo Thoeni for success in the discipline. Tomba, whose total ular, it is ready to make a good bid for star forward Vidic from Spartak Mosca. Manchester United is also interested in acquiring Vidic and within the next few days Fiorentina will have to decide how much the team is willing to pay. Florence fans are anxious to get back into one of the most exciting football seasons their home team has had in years. One small setback Will Tomba s Gold Shine on Rocca? Italian skier evokes memories of Tomba s Olympic run Fascist Salute Not Tolerated Di Canio punished by footall league record of 35 slalom wins is surely unassailable, was the last Italian skier to win three straight races (in ), when he put together an eight-race winning streak in winning the World Cup. The Italian sports press is already lauding Rocca as the next great Italian champion, and betting that he will pocket a medal in the 2006 Olympics set to begin in Turin next February. Hopes are also high for Rocca s team mates, and for the return of the valangha azzurra (blue avalanche). The original valangha azzurra refers to the star slalom quintet of Piero Gros, Gustavo Thoeni, Erwin Stricker, Helmut Schmalzl and Tino Pietrogiovanna who managed to beat out the Austrians on their home slopes and take the first five places at the Berchtesgaden World Cup in January Since then all strong Italian skiing teams have been given the valanga azzurra nickname. Last weekend Massimiliano Blardone and Davide Simoncelli placed first and second in the giant slalom at Alta Badia. Before that, Elena Fanchini posted her first-ever World Cup downhill victory at Lake Louise. Italy is currently topped only by Austria in Alpine skiing World Cup victories this season. azio player Paolo Di Canio has been fi ned 10,000 euros and expelled from one Lmatch by football league judges. This is the punishment for having hailed fans with a fascist salute upon leaving the fi eld during a recent match against Livorno. The player s gesture was a violation of the league s regulations against acts of the the fascist regime, and that instigate violence or racism. About 1,000 Lazio fans protested the ruling in front of Rome s football league headquarters. And Di Canio s lawyers presented a request to repeal the fi ne. Their argument is that while Di Canio is fascist, he had no intention of inciting violence or racism. They claim the player was only saluting fellow fascists. however will slightly dampen the excitement. Fiorentina was penalized by league officials after fans vandalised the Empoli stadium at a match on December 18. Now the team will not be allowed to play its next scheduled home game at its own stadium. Fiorentina will play its first match of the year Saturday, January 7 against Reggio Calabria. BERLUSCONI CREATES UNFAIR PLAYING FIELD New Agreement gives more bargaining power to Mediaset Amidst a clamour of protest, Mediaset announced that it had reached an agreement with Juventus Football Club for the acquisition of broadcast rights across any distribution platform for the 2007/2008 and 2008/2009 seasons. This includes, among other rights, the matches of the Italian championship, for Italy as well as the rest of the world, and the television broadcast of friendly tournaments. Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi s commercial broadcast group Mediaset signed the 248 million euro deal with the football team Juventus, and it is likely that other top ranking teams Milan and Inter will soon follow suit. This acquisition successfully closes out competing broadcasters like Sky from some of the most important games in the Serie A tournament. If other companies do plan to acquire broadcasting rights, they must now acquire them from Mediaset instead of from the football team itself. Critics argue that paying such large sums for top teams while teams ranking lower in the classifi cations are paid a mere fraction (fourth place Fiorentina sold distribution rights for 14 million euro), creates an unfair discrepancy. Now top teams like Juve, Milan, and Inter can dominate the league by using their vast earnings from television rights to acquire the best players. 7 Sports NEWS SERIE A Results 21 / 12 round 17 wed wed wed wed wed wed wed wed wed wed SERIE A Standings team points team points Juventus Inter Milan Fiorentina Livorno Chievo Sampdoria Roma Lazio Udinese date hrs sat sat sun home team opponent Round / Top 4 scorers player 1. Toni 2. Trezeguet 3. Gilardino 4. Adriano Ascoli Fiorentina Inter Juventus Lecce Livorno Messina Parma Roma Udinese team Treviso 1-0 Palermo 1-0 Empoli 4-1 Siena 2-0 Lazio 0-0 Milan 0-3 Reggina 1-1 Cagliari 1-0 Chievo 4-0 Sampdoria 2-0 Palermo Siena Empoli Reggina Ascoli Parma Messina Lecce Cagliari Treviso Round / date hrs sat sat sun Reggina Fiorentina Palermo Juventus Cagliari Udinese Chievo Lecce Empoli Messina Lazio Ascoli Sampdoria Livprno Siena Inter Treviso Roma Milan Parma home team Lecce Sampdoria Messina Palermo Ascoli Empoli Fiorentina Chievo Inter Cagliari Juventus Reggina Livorno Siena Parma Lazio Udinese Treviso Roma Milan Fiorentina Juventus Empoli Sampdoria opponent goals FORZA VIOLA!!!

8 8 Pic of the WEEK Author: Mark Shelley Title: Oltrarno girl

9 What s on & Where to Go 9 Events in FLORENCE DEC 30 TO JAN 12 OUR TOP PICKS t t t NEW YEAR S EVE CONCERT Piazza della Signoria, 31 December Ring in the New Year in one of the most beautiful piazzas in the world, listening to the Grosseto Symphonic Orchestra directed by Maestro Giuseppe Lanzetta. The programme is a typically festive one, with brilliant pieces by Bizet ( Carmen Suite ), Borodin, Offenbach, Brahms ( Hungarian Dances ) and Strauss (lots of Walzer). The Grosseto Symphonic Orchestra, with its 52 elements, was founded in 1994 and has performed in various important venues in Italy and abroad, with increasing success. Maestro Lanzetta has been Musical Director of the Orchestra da Camera Fiorentina since 1981, and together they have performed more than 900 concerts of varying repertoires. He is often invited, as in this occasion, to conduct other symphonic or chamber orchestras. The concert starts at 11pm and is free of charge. Happy New Year! LA BEFANA January 5-6 The legend of Befana began thousands of years ago and remains to this day a tradition practised by Italian children and their families.the story tells of the Befana, an old woman who ran after the Three Kings to take gifts to the new-born Jesus, but arrived too late. Ever since then, on the eve of January 6th, the Befana flies from house to house on her broomstick and delivers all the gifts she didn t give to the Holy Child to good girls and boys. In earlier years, Befana was tremendously popular and was awaited with a mixture of joy and anxiety. Children hung hand-knitted stockings on the fireplace and wrote long letters to her expressing their wishes. If they had been good during the year, they would find little hand-sewn dolls and puppets in their stocking. If they had been bad, their stockings were filled with onions, garlic and coal. Children of today know Befana as an old woman who flies a broom and wears a black shawl over a dress dirty with soot from the chimneys she climbs down to deliver her gifts. For the good children she brings sweets, toys and books. As in the past, she brings onions, garlic and coal for the bad children. In modern-day Italy some shops sell carbone or black rock candy that actually looks like pieces of coal. Almost all cities and quarters organise their own Befana events on January 5 and 6, so check your neighbourhood for details. CAVALCATA DEI MAGI - THE THREE KINGS PARADE January 6 The Three Kings or Magi - accompanied by the Corteo Della Repubblica Fiorentina, walk in procession through the streets in the heart of the city. They leave from Piazza Pitti at 2pm heading towards Piazza del Duomo, where they offer gifts to Baby Jesus in the real-life crib prepared that morning in the Cathedral precinct. While people wait for the procession, accompanied by bandierai (flag-bearers), to arrive, boys and girls choirs sing cheerfully. Once in the Cathedral Square, all the people taking part in the procession, together with representatives from the Comuni of the Province of Florence with their respective gonfaloni (standards), line up for the traditional scoppio della columbina. After official greetings and a reading from the Gospel, small gifts are given to the children. Finally balloons are released containing messages of peace written by the children to people of all nations, thus ending the event. Around 5 pm, the procession begins to make its way back along the same streets to Piazza Pitti. MARILYN AND FRIENDS Palazzo Vecchio, until January 29 A collection of 155 portraits, most of which previously unseen, by the American photographer Sam Shaw and his son Larry, traces the happiest and most triumphant moments of Norma Jean Baker s career. The actress is portrayed from a very natural, informal angle with photographs taken on set, showing her to be more radiant and seductive than ever. At the same time, the exhibition shows a cross-section of Hollywood in the fifties, with numerous photographic portraits of actors who have made American cinema legendary. Thanks to a special layout, they accompany visitors along a path of discovery leading to Marilyn. Sam Shaw ( ) painter, sculptor and photographer, came into contact with the world of cinema making famous portraits of film stars. These include the well-known sequence of Marilyn with her billowing skirt lifted by warm air in Billy Wilder s film The Seven Year Itch. Over the years, he made many other portraits of Marilyn, which have remained unpublished, as well as the huge posters he made of stars such as Paul Newman, Sydney Poitier, Ingrid Bergman, Liz Taylor. mbership card necessary FRIDAY 30 DANCE Roberto Bolle et l Amour The étoile dancer Roberto Bolle from the Milan Scala dances Tchaikovsky Pas de deux choreographed by Balanchine, Petite Mort by Kilián and Romeo and Juliet by Mancini Teatro Comunale, corso Italia 16, tel , orentino.com, 20:30 EXHIBITS Free access to all museums of the Comune di Firenze for Florence residents Last Saturday of every month, list of the museums on renze. it/servizi_pubblici/arte/musei, tel The Book of the People of Kau Almost 30 years after Leni Riefenstahl s book People of Kau was published, Miriam Ratazzi and Renzo Lupi followed the tracks of the same Nuba tribes in Southern Sudan. The exhibition shows portraits of the same people and places 30 years later. Biblioteca Palagio di Parte Guelfa, piazza di Parte Guelfa, tel , until Jan 12, Rotte metropolitane Visual art festival where young Florentine artists can meet and express themselves through exhibits, workshops, meetings, performances and publications SESV-Spazio Espositivo di Santa Verdiana, piazza Ghiberti 27, tel , until Jan 30 A passo di danza attraverso i secoli 200 graphic and painting works dedicated to the history of dance and costumes from the 16 th century onwards Firenze Art Center, via Cavour 35, tel , until June 15, Mon-Fri La Natività di Cristo by Paolo Uccello Presentation of this recently restored stained glass made by Paolo Uccello in 1444 and featuring Christ s Birth Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, piazza Duomo, tel , until Jan 15, Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00 (Thur until 15.30), Sat 10:00-16:45, Sun 13:30-16:45 La Pala Dei del Rosso Fiorentino A precious 16 th century altar painting that has just been restored Sala Bianca - Galleria Palatina, palazzo Pitti, tel , until Feb 9, Tues- Sun , closed Jan 1, 6.50 Natale d Arte Twelve artists, twelve differents ways to express art photography, painting, sculpture, engraving Grand Hotel Mediterraneo, Lungarno del Tempio 42/44 C, tel , until Feb 5, A Man, A Pilot. Clemente Biondetti ( ) Palazzo Medici Riccardi, via Cavour 1, tel , until Jan 8, 10:30-19, Sun 9:00-12:00, closed Wed, free Eloise Ghioni - Modul Art Cabina Teatrale di Saverio Tommasi, via Romagnosi 13/a, tel , www. artmajeur.com/eloise, until Feb 20 I volti della letteratura, engravings by Enzo Faraoni Biblioteca Marucelliana, via Cavour 43, tel , until Jan 14, Mon-Fri 9-18:30, Sat 9-13:30, closed Sun and holidays Marco Perego No Kings, Just Heroes Galleria Poggiali e Forconi, via della Scala 35a, tel , until Feb 12, Mon- Sat 9:30-13:30 and 15:30-19:30 Gianni Zei Guitar Duo Jazz Club, via Nuova de Caccini 3, tel , 22.15, 8.50 F. Morgera M. Papadia P. Borri Ottorino Jazz Bistro, via delle Oche 12/16r, tel , Groovin Trio Caruso Jazz Café, via Lambertesca 16r, tel , Marco Zannoni in Grogrè In Tuscan vernacular Teatro di Rifredi, via Vittorio Emanuele II 303, tel , www. toscanateatro.it, Dec 30, Jan 1, 5, 7, at except Jan 1 at 16.30, 10 Maria Cassi in Galateo Teatro del Sale, via dei Macci 111r, tel , buffet, show, 24, membership mandatory Andrea Muzzi in Chiedo asilo nido Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel , until Dec 31, Thu-Fri 21:00, Sat 22:00 Il malato immaginario Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola 18, tel , renze.it, until Jan 8, Tue-Sat 20.45, on Sun 15.45, Dec 31 at 20.30, 15/29 Se il tempo fosse un gambero Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel , renze.it, Dec 30-Jan 8, at except Dec 31 at and Jan 1, 6, 8 at SATURDAY 31 Gala Concert & Champagne Reception Highlights and duets from the Viennese Walzer and Italian Opera for Sopranos and Tenors, followed by a champagne reception with Tuscan specialities until midnight St. Mark s English Church, via Maggio 16-18, tel , 20.00, gala concert 20, champagne reception 25.

10 10 What s on & Where to Go Events in FLORENCE DEC 30 TO JAN 12 End-of-Year Concert Orchestra Sinfonica Città di Grosseto conducted by M Giuseppe Lanza. Music by Bizet, Borodin, Brahms, Strauss and Offenbach Loggia dei Lanzi, Piazza Signoria, www. invernoafi renze.it, 23.00, free New Year s Eve Dinner with Live Music Ottorino Jazz Restaurant, via delle Oche 12/16r, tel PARTIES Nobody s Perfect Doors open at 22.30, buffet until midnight, dancing with DJs Ralf & Alex Neri Tenax Club, via Pratese 46r, tel , advance sale through Box Offi ce network, 50/70 Capodanno d Italia Some of the world s best techno DJs will mix in two different rooms: Marco Bailey, The Advent, Showtek Fortezza da Basso, v.le Strozzi 1, tel , from to 8.00, Brazilian Party Gala dinner from 20.30, Brazilian show at 23.00, all style music with DJ Francesco from midnight Maracanà, via Faenza 4, tel , dinner, show and party 130, party only 40 New Year s Eve Rock Party With Italian rock bands Gem Boy and Ganzi plus 4 DJs Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b, tel , og.it, from 22.30, 15 Party Saschall Gala dinner with live 70-80s music from 21.00, party with famous DJs from Mykonos, the Esmerald Coast and Florence after midnight Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel , dinner and party 90, party only 40 Sotto la curva Open-Air Party Stadio Comunale Artemio Franchi, viale M. Fanti 4/6, tel , from 21.30, free admission New Year s Eve Dinner, Live Music and Party Buffet dinner and live jazz from 21.00, then soul, R&B and 70s disco with DJ Spike from midnight Jazz Club, via Nuova de Caccini 3, bookings RELIGIOUS SERVICES End of Year Mass (in Italian) Cattedrale di S.Maria del Fiore, piazza Duomo, Decamerone - le favole sensuali In Italian vernacular Teatro di Rifredi, via Vittorio Emanuele II 303, tel , www. toscanateatro.it, Dec 31, Jan 4, 6, 8, at except Dec 31 at and Jan 8 at Andrea Muzzi in Chiedo asilo nido La locandiera Teatro di Cestello, piazza del Cestello 4, tel , tbo.it, until Jan 22, Sat 21:00, Sun and holidays 16:30 La Cameriera di Puccini Midnight buffet served after the show Teatro Everest, via Volterrana 4 c/d, tel , , 35 Se il tempo fosse un gambero Il malato immaginario Formidabile Plus! Gala dinner and live show featuring Alessandro Capasso & Anna la zia Butteri, the Otel Ballet Show, comic Claudio Marmugi, bellydancer Gaia Scuderi and live music with Gianluca & Daniele Otel Ristotheatre, via Generale Dalla Chiesa 9, tel , www. otelvariete.com Moira Orfei Circus New Year s Eve Gala Show The Moira Orfei Circus celebrates its 50 th birthday with a performance entitled Shivers, Animals and Emotions. Mandela Forum (ex Palasport), viale Pasquale Paoli, tel , and Box Offi ce network, Avan... spettacolo ovvero come una volta... tra Napoli e Firenze Teatro Le Laudi, via L. da Vinci 2r, tel , Dec 31 at and Jan 1 at Theatre, Midnight Buffet and Cabaret The evening will start with the theatre play Coniuge disperato cerca urgentemente killer con miti pretese e massima serietà at 21.00; after a midnight buffet, the night carries on with a cabaret show featuring singers, comics, magicians, etc. Teatro Nuovo, via Fanfani 16, tel , 75 Giovanili Nannini in I vigili urbani Teatro Reims, via Reims 30, tel , Dec 31 at 20.30, Jan 1 and Jan 6 at 17.00, Jan 7 at 21.15, SUNDAY 1 Strauss Walzer by Duo Boccaccio Auditorium della Clinica Medica di Careggi, viale Morgagni, renze.it, 10.30, free Concert for Europe New Year s Day 2006 With the Fiesole Music School orchestra conducted by Christopher Franklin and piano soloist Pietro De Maria. Works by Strauss, Beethoven, Bernstein, Liszt and Nicolai Teatro Comunale, corso Italia 16, info , esole. fi.it, 11.30, invites available in the main music shops and at Box Offi ce SPORTS & ACTIVITIES New Year s Day Rowing Parade Traditional event presented by the Società Canottieri Firenze Arno River (from Pescaia Santa Rosa to Ponte Vecchio), tel , www. canottierifi renze.it, Marco Zannoni in Grogrè La locandiera See Dec 31 Se il tempo fosse un gambero Il malato immaginario Avan... spettacolo ovvero come una volta... tra Napoli e Firenze See Dec 31 Giovanili Nannini in I vigili urbani Teatro Reims, via Reims 30, tel , until Feb 22, Sat 21.15, Sun 17.00, Jan 6 at MONDAY 2 Se il tempo fosse un gambero TUESDAY 3 GUIDED TOURS The Markets of Florence Guided tours and sampling of typical foods in the San Lorenzo and Sant Ambrogio markets Info and booking , every Tue and Wed morning MARKETS & FESTIVALS Mercato delle Cascine Clothing, leather, fruit, shoes, fl owers, household appliances Parco delle Cascine, 8-13 Jam Session + House Band Tribute to Sonny Rollins Every Tuesday night the Jazz Club hosts a jam session open to everyone, with a different theme every two months Jazz Club, via Nuova de Caccini 3, tel , 22.15, 8.50 Se il tempo fosse un gambero Il malato immaginario WEDNESDAY 4 GUIDED TOURS The Markets of Florence Guided tours and sampling of typical foods in the San Lorenzo and Sant Ambrogio markets Info and booking , every Tue and Wed morning Vocimania Spiritual, gospel, jazz, musical and revival of 70s disco hits Jazz Club, via Nuova de Caccini 3, tel , 22.15, 8.50 Decamerone - le favole sensuali See Dec 31 Se il tempo fosse un gambero Il malato immaginario THURSDAY 5 MARKETS & FESTIVLAS Flower Market Via Pellicceria, 8-13 Cuban music by Perfidia Quartet Jazz Club, via Nuova de Caccini 3, tel , every Thur 22.15, 8.50 Organ Recital by Pier Paolo Donati Chiesa SS. Annunziata, piazza SS. Annunziata, 21.00, free Gregorian Songs by the Viri Galilaei Choir Chiesa SS. Apostoli, piazza del Limbo, 21.00, free Befana Gay Gay and Lesbian Party Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b, tel , og.it, 22.30, 10/8 Marco Zannoni in Grogrè Se il tempo fosse un gambero Il malato immaginario FRIDAY 6 GUIDED TOURS Visit to Cappella Sassetti Free guided tour of the Adoration of the Shepherds and other frescoes by Ghirlandaio Chiesa di S.Trinità, piazza S. Trinità, bookings /6, Jan 6-7, tours at 9, 9.30, 10, MARKETS & FESTIVALS Cavalcata dei Magi (The Three Kings Parade) The Three Kings followed by the Republic of Florence procession will be parading throughout the streets of Florence commemorating one of the most popular events of the Renaissance period City Center, from 14.30, info Flea Market Piazza dei Ciompi, tel , Estemporaneo jazz trio Jazz Club, via Nuova de Caccini 3, tel , 22.15, 8.50 Reggae Dancehall di Salento New School Fire: Shotta P.+ Ghetto Eden Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b, tel , og.it, 23.00, 3 Decamerone - le favole sensuali See Dec 31 La locandiera See Dec 31 Se il tempo fosse un gambero Il malato immaginario Giovanili Nannini in I vigili urbani See Jan 1 Coniuge disperato cerca urgentemente killer con miti pretese e massima serietà Teatro Nuovo, via Fanfani 16, tel , Jan 6-29, Sat 21:15, Sun and holidays 16:15, 11/9 Il cervello delle donne, musical Teatro Le Laudi, via L. da Vinci 2r, tel , SATURDAY 7 EXHIBITS Kara mette le ali all anima Recent works by the French-Russian master Vladimir Kara FYR Arte Contemporanea, borgo degli Albizi 23, tel , Jan 7-31, Tues-Sun 10-12:30 & 16-19:30 GUIDED TOURS Visit to Cappella Sassetti Free guided tour of the Adoration of the Shepherds and other frescoes by Ghirlandaio Chiesa di S.Trinità, piazza S. Trinità, bookings /6, Jan 6-7, tours at 9, 9.30, 10, Europa Galante Director and violin soloist: Fabio Biondi. Works by Mozart and Boccherini Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola 18, tel , , 10/21 Anni D Argento Choir Florence s folk songs and Christmas hymns Oratorio dei Vanchetoni, via Palazzuolo 17, 18.00, free Alberto Ferrarese Quintet Jazz Club, via Nuova de Caccini 3, tel , 22.15, 8.50 Future Legend Tribute to David Bowie This special night organised by David Bowie s Italian fan club will feature acoustic live acts by local bands and historical videos of the artist. Every participant is invited to dress in the style of David Bowie and to take part in the cloning contest organized during the night. SottoSopra, via dei Serragli 48/R, tel , , free Marco di Maggio Connection featuring Greg (from Le Iene) Rockabilly and rock n roll concert with comic actor Greg as special guest Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b, tel , og.it, 22.00, 5 Marco Zannoni in Grogrè Francesca Reggiani in Tutto quello che le donne non dicono Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel , Jan 7 at 21, Jan 8 at La locandiera See Dec 31

11 What s on & Where to Go 11 Events in FLORENCE DEC 30 TO JAN 12 Genesi I Ribelli dell Antico Testamento Teatro Goldoni, Via Santa Maria 15, tel , Jan 7-10, 20h45 Se il tempo fosse un gambero Il malato immaginario Giovanili Nannini in I vigili urbani See Jan 1 Coniuge disperato cerca urgentemente killer con miti pretese e massima serietà See Jan 6 Forza venite gente Musical narrating San Francesco d Assisi s story Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel and Box Offi ce network, , 27.50/22 Il canto del cigno Based on Anton Cechov s novel Teatro Le Laudi, via L. da Vinci 2r, tel , Jan 7 at 21.00, Jan 8 at SUNDAY 8 GUIDED TOURS Guided tour of the museum and maths workshop Il Giardino di Archimede Un Museo per la Matematica, via S.Bartolo a Cintoia 19A, tel , MARKETS & FESTIVALS S. Spirito Market Piazza Santo Spirito, tel , all day Cose d Altri Tempi Antique market Piazza Acciaiuoli, tel King s College Choir directed by Stephen Cleobury Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola 18, tel , , 10/21 Misa Criola by the Quodlibet Choir Chiesa di S.Marco, piazza S.Marco, tel , 21.15, free Filarmonica G. Rossini: concert and mass commemorating La Pira Badia Fiorentina, via del Proconsolo, tel , Latin Morning by the AgimusArte Orchestra Auditorium della Clinica Medica di Careggi, viale Morgagni, renze.it, 10.30, free RELIGIOUS SERVICES Mass of the Artists (in Italian) Holy Mass in honour of the artists. Patron Beato Angelico with accompaniment by musicians, singers and actors who alternate throughout the year. Basilica di San Marco, piazza San Marco, every Sun at SPORTS & ACTIVITIES Cus Firenze Giunti - A.R. Lyons Piacenza Serie A professional rugby match Campo Padovani, viale Pasquale Paoli 21, tel , Decamerone - le favole sensuali See Dec 31 Francesca Reggiani in Tutto quello che le donne non dicono See Jan 7 La locandiera See Dec 31 Genesi I Ribelli dell Antico Testamento See Jan 7 Se il tempo fosse un gambero Il malato immaginario Giovanili Nannini in I vigili urbani See Jan 1 Coniuge disperato cerca urgentemente killer con miti pretese e massima serietà See Jan 6 Il canto del cigno See Jan 7 MONDAY 9 Today s Composers in Florence: Sylvano Bussotti Sylvano Bussotti, piano, will perform his own compositions together with Luca Paoloni, violin Lyceum, via degli Alfani, 48, tel , renze. net, Genesi I Ribelli dell Antico Testamento See Jan 7 TUESDAY 10 DANCE Tango Night The cultural association La Milonguera invites all tango fans for a typical dinner and ball every Tuesday Spazio Espositivo Vallecchi BZF, via Panicale 61r, tel , it, every Tuesday, SpreadingOut / Dif-fusione poetica Dance and poetry Teatro del Sale, via dei Macci 111r, tel , buffet, show, 24, membership mandatory GUIDED TOURS The Markets of Florence Guided tours and sampling of typical foods in the San Lorenzo and Sant Ambrogio markets Info and booking , every Tue and Wed morning MARKETS & FESTIVALS Mercato delle Cascine Clothing, leather, fruit, shoes, fl owers, household appliances Parco delle Cascine, 8-13 Jam Session + House Band Tribute to Sonny Rollins Every Tuesday night the Jazz Club hosts a jam session open to everyone, with a different theme every two months Jazz Club, via Nuova de Caccini 3, tel , 22.15, 8.50 Genesi I Ribelli dell Ant The Markets of Florence ico Testamento See Jan 7 Bovi Bovi Dove Andate? Il 900 in campagna Readings of Florentine authors works from the 19th century and Tuscan songs Teatro 13, via Nicolodi 2, tel , 21.15, invites available at Assessorato alla Cultura, via Ghibellina 30 Buffi si nasce Teatro di Rifredi, via Vittorio Emanuele II 303, tel , www. toscanateatro.it, Jan 10-22, 21.00, Sun 16.30, 12/14 Non ti pago! Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola 18, tel , renze.it, Jan 10-15, 20.45, Sun 15.45, 15/29 To Beef or Not To Beef The butcher and poet Dario Cecchini presents a comic show on the virtues of eating meat. Part of the benefi ts will go to charity The Lounge, Piazza S.M.Novella 9/10R, tel , from 19.30, 35 WEDNESDAY 11 CINEMA Talking Pictures: The Devil is a Woman (1935, with Marlene Dietrich) Every Wednesday, the British Institute proposes a cinema night consisting of a brief spoken introduction, the showing of the fi lm and an infomal follow-up discussion British Institute, Lungarno Guicciardini 9, tel , , 5 per fi lm (+ 5 memberhip) EXHIBITS Antropozoo by Gianluca Gori Oil paintings on canvas featuring modern allegories of the animal world. Inauguration at Museo zoologico La Specola, via Romana 17, tel , Jan 11-March 21, , Sat , Wed closed, closed Jan 1. Dust by Rick Owens The Californian designer will present a three-part event (a fashion show and two installations) Stazione Leopolda, viale Fratelli Rosselli 5, tel , Jan 11-14, GUIDED TOURS Florence s Markets Guided tours and sampling of typical foods in the San Lorenzo and Sant Ambrogio markets Info and booking , every Tue and Wed morning MARKETS & FESTIVALS 69 Pitti Immagine Uomo World preview of men s clothing and accessory collections for the 2006/2007 fall-winter season (reserved for professionals) Fortezza da Basso, v.le Strozzi 1, tel , Jan Baglioni Uomo Men s fashion exhibition related to Pitti Immagine Uomo Grand Hotel Baglioni, piazza Unità Italiana 6, tel , Jan 11-14, Welcome to my House Street fashion exhibition in connection with Pitti Immagine Uomo. Street culture events such as skateboard and bmx contests, hip-hop jam sessions, DJs and concerts are organised. Stazione Leopolda, viale Fratelli Rosselli 5, tel , Jan 11-14, Wed and Fri 11:00-00:00; Thu and Sat 11:00-20:00, by invitation The Best Students of Sound Music School Jazz Club, via Nuova de Caccini 3, tel , 22.15, 8.50 Buffi si nasce See Jan 10 Non ti pago! See Jan 10 THURSDAY 12 EXHIBITS Dust by Rick Owens The Californian designer will present a three-part event (a fashion show and two installations) Stazione Leopolda, viale Fratelli Rosselli 5, tel , Jan 11-14, MARKEYS & FESTIVALS Flower Market Via Pellicceria, Pitti Immagine Uomo World preview of men s clothing and accessory collections for the 2006/2007 fall-winter season (reserved for professionals) Fortezza da Basso, v.le Strozzi 1, tel , Jan Baglioni Uomo Men s fashion exhibition related to Pitti Immagine Uomo Grand Hotel Baglioni, piazza Unità Italiana 6, tel , Jan 11-14, Welcome to my House Street fashion exhibition in connection with Pitti Immagine Uomo. Street culture events such as skateboard and bmx contests, hip-hop jam sessions, DJs and concerts are organised. Stazione Leopolda, viale Fratelli Rosselli 5, tel , Jan 11-14, Wed and Fri 11:00-00:00; Thu and Sat 11:00-20:00, by invitation Orchestra Regionale della Toscana conducted by Carlos Kalmar Piano soloist: Giorgia Tomassi. Music by Britten, Chopin and Bizet Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel , it, Cuban music by Perfidia Quartet Jazz Club, via Nuova de Caccini 3, tel , every Thur 22.15, 8.50 Taranta Nite: Antidotum Tarantulae + Acquatrula Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b, tel , og.it, 22.00, 5 Buffi si nasce See Jan 10 Non ti pago! See Jan 10 L amore ai tempi del giudizio universale Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel , Jan 12-14, ONGOING EXHIBITS Antropozoo by Gianluca Gori Oil paintings on canvas featuring modern allegories of the animal world. Museo zoologico La Specola, via Romana 17, tel , Jan 11-March 21, , Sat , Wed closed, closed Jan 1 Kara mette le ali all anima Recent works by the French-Russian master Vladimir Kara FYR Arte Contemporanea, borgo degli Albizi 23, tel , Jan 7-31, Tues-Sun 10-12:30 & 16-19:30 The Book of the People of Kau Almost 30 years after Leni Riefenstahl s book People of Kau was published, Miriam Ratazzi and Renzo Lupi followed the tracks of the same Nuba tribes in Southern Sudan. The exhibition shows portraits of the same people and places 30 years later. Biblioteca Palagio di Parte Guelfa, piazza di Parte Guelfa, tel , until Jan 12, Villa Rigoli Artistic Nativity Display with Special Effects Piazzetta Monsignor Alvaro Ferri, Borgunto Fiesole, until Jan 29, open everyday until Jan 8 and only Sat-Sun from Jan 9 to 29, Pero Pocek, paintings The most famous Montenegrin painter of the Modernism period ( ) educated in Italy Palazzo Panciatichi, via Cavour 2, tel , until Jan 9, Mon-Fri , Sat Arnolfo. At the Origins of the Florentine Renaissance A collection of the major works of Tuscan architect and sculptor Arnolfo di Cambio Museo dell Opera del Duomo, piazza del Duomo 9, tel , www. arnolfoafi renze.it, until April 21, daily, closed Jan 1, 10-5 Silvano Campeggi - From Cinema Posters to Pop Art Banca CR Firenze (Sala delle Colonne), via Bufalini 6, tel , www. bancacrfi renze.it, until Feb 28

12 12 What s on & Where to Go Events in FLORENCE DEC 30 TO JAN 12 I Mai Visti Unseen sacred and profane works from the Uffi zi warehouses focusing on nudes Sala delle Reali Poste, Loggiato degli Uffi zi, 6, tel /284034, until Jan 29, Tues-Sun , closed Jan 1, free Marco Perego No Kings, Just Heroes Galleria Poggiali e Forconi, via della Scala 35a, tel , until Feb 12, Mon- Sat 9:30-13:30 and 15:30-19:30 I volti della letteratura, engravings by Enzo Faraoni Biblioteca Marucelliana, via Cavour 43, tel , until Jan 14, Mon-Fri 9-18:30, Sat 9-13:30, closed Sun and holidays Eloise Ghioni - Modul Art Cabina Teatrale di Saverio Tommasi, via Romagnosi 13/a, tel , www. artmajeur.com/eloise, until Feb 20 A Man, A Pilot. Clemente Biondetti ( ) Palazzo Medici Riccardi, via Cavour 1, tel , until Jan 8, 10:30-19, Sun 9:00-12:00, closed Wed, free Natale d Arte Twelve artists, twelve differents ways to express art photography, painting, sculpture, engraving Grand Hotel Mediterraneo, Lungarno del Tempio 42/44 C, tel , until Feb 5, Marc Ferrero Piccole Storie Quotidiane Mixed-media contemporary art Galleria del Palazzo - Maison Enrico Coveri, Lungarno Guicciardini 19, tel , until Jan 30, Tues-Sat 11:00-13:00 and 15:30-19:30 La Fiorentina del Primo Scudetto An artistic and journalistic homage to the Fiorentina team which won the fi rst soccer scudetto during the season Firenze Art Gallery, via Pisana 85r, tel , until Jan 14, & , closed Sun and holidays Relativity from Galileo to Einstein An exhibition and workshop featuring Einstein with the purpose of broadening the understanding of Science Museo di Storia della Scienza, piazza dei Giudici 1, tel , www. universoeinstein.it, until March 12, every Sat at and 2nd Sun of the month at and 11.30, by reservation only La Pala Dei del Rosso Fiorentino A precious 16 th century altar painting that has recently been restored Sala Bianca - Galleria Palatina, palazzo Pitti, tel , until Feb 9, Tues- Sun , closed Jan 1, 6.50 Maniera nera...a colori by Michel Estebe Engravings and watercolours Galleria Falteri, via della Spada 38/r, tel , until Jan 30, Tues-Sat & 16-19:30 La Natività di Cristo by Paolo Uccello Presentation of this recently restored stained glass made by Paolo Uccello in 1444 featuring Christ s Birth Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, piazza Duomo, tel , until Jan 15, Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00 (Thur until 15.30), Sat 10:00-16:45, Sun 13:30-16:45 Oronzo Ricci Learn Art and Stay on the Side Caffè Storico Letterario Giubbe Rosse, Piazza della Repubblica 13/14 r, tel , until Jan 6 Le Natività degli antiquari fiorentini A unique itinerary of 40 Florentine antique shops which have precious nativity displays Antique shops in the city center, tel , renze.it, until Jan 20 Sculptures by Grazia Gargani Bernasconi Saletta Costantini, v.portigiani, Fiesole, tel , until Jan 8, 10-18, closed Tues Florence s Christmas Tree Piazza Strozzi, tel , www. invernoafi renze.it, until Jan 15 Soste Impreviste, drawings by Maria Teresa Maiello La Corte Arte Contemporanea, via de Coverelli 27r, tel , until Jan 5, 16-19, closed Mon and Sun Marilyn and Friends 155 images mostly unpublished of Marilyn Monroe, taken by the most famous photographers of the 20th century. Sala d Arme, Palazzo Vecchio, piazza della Signoria, tel , until Jan 20, , closed Jan 1 and 6, 6.50/5 Precious Sculptures by Alberto Zorzi Galleria Il Ponte, via di Mezzo 42b, tel , until Jan 14, , closed on Mondays, holidays and Jan 1-8 Mistieri A contemporary tribute to antique Florentine crafts Chiesa di Santa Monaca, via S.Monaca, tel , renze.it, until Jan 15 La Grande Guerra degli Artisti Exhibit of artworks of the Great War period Museo Marino Marini, piazza San Pancrazio, tel , www. museomarinomarini.it, until March 25, except Tues, closed Jan 1 and 6, 4/2 Gemine Muse 2005 Young Artists in Europe s Museums Works by Alessandro Casati, Leonardo Filastò and Franco Menicagli Galleria del Costume, Palazzo Pitti, piazza Pitti 1, tel , until Jan 30, 8,15-13,50, closed 1st, 3rd and 5th Mon and 2 nd and 4 th Sun of the month, closed Jan 1, 5 Gemine Muse 2005 Young Artists in Europe s Museums Works by Dario Ariamone, Chiara Guarducci and Simone Simonetti Museo di Firenze Com Era, via dell Oriuolo 24, tel , until Feb 26, , closed on Thursdays, closed Jan 1 and 6 Charta, paper works by 10 international artists Galleria Immaginaria Arti Visive, via Guelfa 22/a rosso, tel , until Jan 20, Mon-Sat 9:30-13:00 and 15:30-19:30, Sun 17:00-20:00 10x10: 10 Galleries, 10 Artists 10 Florentine galleries present 10 art events during the winter months Several galleries in Florence, tel , renze.it, until Feb 28 Rotte metropolitane Visual art festival where young Florentine artists can meet and express themselves through exhibits, workshops, meetings, performances and publications SESV-Spazio Espositivo di Santa Verdiana, piazza Ghiberti 27, tel , until Jan 30 From Puccio di Simone to Giottino. Restoration and confirmation Galleria dell Accademia, via Ricasoli 50, tel , renze.it, until Jan 29, Tues-Sun , closed Jan 1, 6.50 A passo di danza attraverso i secoli 200 graphic and painting works dedicated to the history of dance and costumes from the 16 th century onwards Firenze Art Center, via Cavour 35, tel , until June 15, Mon-Fri Praticomateriale Mixed-media contemporary artworks Spazio Espositivo Vallecchi BZF, via Panicale 61r, tel , it, until Jan 5, Tues-Sun Ceramics by Paolo Staccioli Palazzo Pitti, Museo delle Porcellane, tel , until June 25, (Dec, Jan, Feb), (March), (April, May), closed 1 st and last Mon of the month, closed Jan 1, 4 Accattone Photography exhibit to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the death of Pier Paolo Pasolini, the famous Italian director Palazzo Pitti, Galleria del Gabbiano, p.za Pitti, tel , until Jan 9, Tue-Sun , closed Jan 1, 6,50 Cow Parade All around the town, info , until Jan 20 Leonardo da Vinci: The True Image Testimonies and documents of his life and work Archivio di Stato, viale Giovine Italia 6, tel , until Jan 28, and 15-18, closed Dec 31 and Jan 1, free admission Perugino a Firenze Painting exhibition Cenacolo di Fuligno, via Faenza, 40, tel , until Jan 8, Tues-Sun, 10-18, free Leon Battista Alberti: a Humanist s Library Biblioteca Laurenziana, p.za S. Lorenzo 9, tel , renze.sbn. it, until Jan 7, Tue-Sun , closed Jan 1 and 6, 3/5, guided tours in English available Donna. Donne Exhibition dedicated to the theme of the feminine in contemporary art Palazzo Strozzi, piazza Strozzi, tel , until Jan 8, Mythologica et Erotica Art and Culture from Antiquity to the XVIII century Museo degli Argenti, Palazzo Pitti, until May 15, (Dec, Jan, Feb), (March), (April, May), closed 1 st and last Mon of the month, closed Jan 1, 4 Restoration of Donatello s Amore- Attis Museo Nazionale del Bargello, via del Proconsolo 4, tel , www. polomuseale.firenze.it, until Jan 8, , closed on 2nd and 4th Mon and on 1st, 3rd and 5th Sun of the month, closed Jan 1 Slovakia, crossroads of European civilisations Museo Archeologico, via della Colonna 36, tel /23575, until Jan 15, Mon 14-19, Tues, Thur , Wed, Fri, Sun , closed Jan 1, 4 Splendors of Chianti: the Madonnas of Chianti and Casale Galleria degli Uffi zi, tel / , extended until January 8, 10-13, 15-18, closed Jan 1, free Psiche Pathos Logos by Luca Alinari Museo Archeologico, via della Colonna 36, tel /23575, until Jan 15, Mon 14-19, Tues, Thur , Wed, Fri, Sun , closed Jan 1, 4 Ideas, Models, Inventions. The Patents of Ferragamo Museo Salvatore Ferragamo, via Tornabuoni 2, tel , www. museoferragamo.it, until Spring 06, Mon- Fri 9-13, 14-18, closed Dec 23-Jan 6, admission only by guided visits (in English, on reservation, free) The Island of Treasures : Food and Flavours in the Ancient World Museo Archeologico, via della Colonna 36, tel /23575, it, until Jan 15, Mon 14-19, Tues, Thur , Wed, Fri, Sun , closed Jan 1, 4 GUIDED TOURS Artisans of the Oltrarno, in search of artistic craftsmanship A tour for those who want to discover and bring home the artisan heart of Florence, savouring the fi nest genuine Florentine artisan traditions. Info , Bardini Garden Giardino Bardini, via dei Bardi 1r, www. bardinipeyron.it, until February, guided visits from 8.15 to 16.30, by reservation Hortibus Collection & Garden tours Starting point: piazza S.Trinita, every Thur and Sat at 15.00, info , 25 MARKETS & FESTIVALS Mercato San Lorenzo Florentine crafts, hand-made embroidery and paper, leather, etc Streets around Basilica San Lorenzo, every day, all day Mercato del Porcellino Florentine crafts with straw, hand-made embroidery, leather and woodwork, fl owers Logge del Porcellino, every day, all day Organ and instrumental concerts Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Ricci, via del Corso, tel , all year, Mon-Sun 21.15, Sat 18.00, 11 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES Ice-skating Parterre, piazza della Libertà, tel , until Jan 8, , Fri- Sat-Sun until 1am, 6/4 Moira Orfei Circus The Moira Orfei Circus celebrates its 50 th birthday with a performance entitled Shivers, Animals and Emotions. Gala show on Dec 31. Mandela Forum (ex Palasport), viale Pasquale Paoli, tel , and Box Offi ce network, until Jan 8 UP COMING James Blunt Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel and Box Office network, Jan 15 Oasis Nelson Mandela Forum (ex Palasport), viale Pasquale Paoli, tel and Box Offi ce network, February 6 Gianna Nannini Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel and Box Offi ce network, Feb 19 Lou Reed Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel and Box Office network, Feb 24 Deep Purple Nelson Mandela Forum (ex Palasport), viale Pasquale Paoli, tel , www. mandelaforum.it, March 13 Eros Ramazzoti Nelson Mandela Forum (ex Palasport), viale Pasquale Paoli, tel and Box Offi ce network, March 19 CHILDREN LECTURES & CONFERENCES Tales and songs proposed by the Musicarea Association Piazza Bartali, tel , Dec 30, Attento Pierino... arriva il lupo! Theatre and puppet show for all ages Villa S. Lorenzo al Prato, via Scardassieri 47, Sesto Fiorentino, tel / , Jan 1, 17.00, 4 Cina Chinese legends narrated and illustrated, for children aged 4-10 Teatro Magnolfi, via Gobetti 79, Prato, tel , Jan 3 at and 17.00, free Pinocchio con gli stivali Chiesa di Castelnuovo, Prato, tel , Jan 4, Arriva la Befana According to an old tradition, every January 6, the Befana witch fl ies on a broom to bring sweets and toys to children. Entertainment, stories and gifts await children in almost all squares in Italy Check with your local casa del popolo, ARCI or Comune for details, January 6 Grimm 2 Quadro Multimedia theatre show for all ages Villa S. Lorenzo al Prato, via Scardassieri 47, Sesto Fiorentino, tel / , Jan 6, 17.00, 4 Al signor Rodari For children aged 4-10 Teatro Fabbrichino, via Targetti 10, Prato, tel , Jan 6-7 at 17.00, Jan 8 at 16.00

13 What s on & Where to Go 13 Events in FLORENCE DEC 30 TO JAN 12 Caterina e l Orchessa Teatro del Popolo, piazza Gramsci, Castelfi orentino, tel /638617, Jan 7, C era una volta Limonaia di Villa Montalvo, via di Limite, Campi Bisenzio, tel , Jan 8, La Bella e la Bestia Puppet show for children aged 4-10 Teatro Cantiere Florida, via Pisana 111r, tel , Jan 8, 16.30, 5/7 Biancaneve e i sette nani Teatro Moderno ARCI, Via Gramsci 5, Tavarnuzze, tel , www. vieniteloracconto.it, Jan 8, 17.00, 7/5.50 Pinolo Puppet show Teatro Regina Margherita, via A. Mori 20, Marcialla Barberino Val d Elsa, tel , Jan 8, OUT OF TOWN DANCE SpreadingOut / Dif-fusione poetica Dance and poetry Piccolo Teatro di Rufi na, piazza Umberto I 47, Rufi na, tel , Jan 8, 16.30, 6/8 EXHIBITS Enzo Baldoni Un ficcanaso...uno di noi A photographic war testimony by the Italian reporter who was kidnapped and killed by terrorists in Iraq in 2004 Teatro della Limonaia, via Gramsci 426, Sesto Fiorentino, tel , Jan La fabbrica delle meraviglie - Trent anni di donazioni The museum celebrates its 30th anniversary by displaying all donations received from public institutions or individuals since its creation Museo del Tessuto, via Santa Chiara 24, Prato, tel , www. museodeltessuto.it, until April 20, 10-18, Sat 10-14, Sun 16-19, Tues closed, Jan 1 closed, Jan 6 open from to Artistic nativities by Giuseppe Fioravante Giannoni Museo di San Francesco, Greve in Chianti, tel , until Jan 6 Giuliano Ghelli - Le vie del tempo The exhibition highlights three themes that inspired the Italian painter: Australia s Aborigines, Leonardo da Vinci and the X ian terracotta army in China Chiesa di San Francesco, Castelfi orentino, tel , until Jan 15, Thu-Sun 17:00-19:30, closed Jan 1 Homage to Boccaccio Artworks from 20th Century Masters Palazzo Pretorio di Certaldo, Piazzetta del Vicariato, Certaldo, tel /279, until Jan 8 Il bello dell utile Local manufactured ceramics Museo Richard-Ginori della Manifattura di Doccia, viale Pratese 31, Sesto Fiorentino, tel , until Jan 14, Wed-Sat and 14-18, closed Dec 31 and Jan 6 Leonardo s Crib Museo Ideale di Leonardo da Vinci, via Montalbano 2, Vinci, tel , until Jan 6, & Spread in Prato, 4th edition Renowned contemporary photography exhibit Dryphoto, via Pugliesi 23, Prato, tel , until Jan 15, Wed-Sat 17:00-19:30, from Dec 23 to Jan 8 by appointment only 100 Artworks for Sri Lanka 100 works have been donated by artists and will be sold during the exhibition to raise funds for the reconstruction of a village in Sri Lanka destroyed by last year s Tsunami Antiche Stanze di Santa Caterina, via Dolce dei Mazzamuti 1, Prato, tel , until Jan 6, & 15-18, closed Tue, Sun and holidays The Magical Box and the Silence of Things 200 paintings by Marcello Bertini Villa Rucellai, Campi Bisenzio, tel , until Jan 22 The Origins of Mankind Italian discoveries in Dancalia (Eritrea) Museo di Fucecchio - Palazzo Corsini, piazza Vittorio Veneto 27, Fucecchio, tel , until Jan 8 Arte in Maremma nella prima metà del Novecento Different palaces and museums in Grosseto, until January 29, tel , 10-13, 15-18, Mon closed, 2/4 Gemine Muse 2005 Young Artists in Europe s Museums Works by Giovanni Ozzola and Emanuele Becchi Museo di Pittura Murale, piazza S. Domenico, Prato, tel , until Feb 26 Il maialino fortunato... Cartoline augurali natalizie della Famiglia Falorni Exhibit of some 1000 Christmas cards featuring small pigs, following an early 20 th century tradition popular in Europe Logge di Piazza Matteotti & wine cellars, Greve in Chianti, tel , www. lecantine.it, until Jan 29, every Sat and Sun Guidi Dolci a Prato: tra mestiere e poesia Museo dell Opera del Duomo, p.za del Duomo 49, Prato, tel , until Jan 8 Leonetto Tintori and the Vainella School Museo di Pittura Murale, piazza S. Domenico, Prato, tel , until March 4, free Paul Jenkins Works Galleria Open Art, viale della Repubblica 24, Prato, tel , until Jan 31, , 16 20, closed on Mon and holidays The Island of Treasures : Food and Flavours in the Ancient World Archaeological exhibition Museo Masaccio d Arte Sacra, via di Casaromolo 2/a, Loc. Cascia - Reggello, tel , until Jan 31 The Island of Treasures : Food and Flavours in the Ancient World Archaeological exhibition Museo d Arte Sacra di San Francesco, Greve in Chianti, tel , until Jan 31, Thur-Fri 10-13, Sat-Sun The Island of Treasures : Food and Flavours in the Ancient World Archaeological exhibition Museo Archeologico Alto Mugello, Palazzuolo sul Senio, tel , until Jan 31, Sat, Sun and holidays The Island of Treasures : Food and Flavours in the Ancient World Archaeological exhibition Antiquarium S. Appiano, Barberino Val d Elsa, tel , until April 30, Sat-Sun The Island of Treasures : Food and Flavours in the Ancient World Archaeological exhibition Museo di Arte Sacra di San Pietro in Bossolo, Tavarnelle - Val di Pesa, tel , until April 30, Sat-Sun GUIDED TOURS Wine and Fashion in the Florentine Mountains. Itineraries with guided visits, shopping Tours to discover the beauties of the Florentine Mountains: the art, culture and nature together with food, visits to artisan workshops and local shopping centres (Dicomano, Londa, Pelago, Pontassieve, Reggello, Rufi na, San Godenzo). Starts at 8.45, lasts 7 hours All year on Mon and Sat, Resco Travel tel On the Scaffolding with Filippo Lippi Visits to the restoration of Filippo Lippi s fresco (max 12 persons) Cattedrale di Santo Stefano, piazza del Duomo, Prato, tel , www. restaurofi lippolippi.it, by reservation only, Sat at 10, 11, 16, 17, Sun at 10, 11, 8 Abbey of San Salvatore and San Lorenzo a Settimo Badia a Settimo, Scandicci, tel , Wed 10-12, Sun MARKETS & FESTIVALS Week-end of Dec 31- Jan 1 Luci di Natale Shows, music, market and live nativity Piazza Umberto I & Piazza Aldo Moro, Rufi na, tel , until Jan 6 La Befana dei Pompieri From 15.00: entertainment and games for children with distribution of sweets and gifts. At the Befana will descend from the Cathedral s tower by cable car. The event will raise funds for UNICEF Piazza Duomo, Prato, tel /22, Jan 6 Week-end of January 7-8 Fierucola d Inverno Winter Fair Ecological, biological, biodynamic, natural and craft products from the Prato region Piazza Buonamici, piazza S. Maria al Castello e piazza S. Antonino, Prato, Jan 8, Antique and Modernariato Fair City center, Pontassieve, tel , Jan 8 Carmen Consoli & Goran Bregovic Piazza del Campo, Siena, siena.it, Dec 31, 22.30, free admission Howard Gospel Choir Teatro Metastasio, via Cairoli 59, Prato, tel , Jan 1, 17.00, 10 Prato String Quartet Palazzo Novellucci, via Cairoli 25, Prato, tel , Jan 1, The Gospel Fire Choir Parrocchia di Grignano, Circoscrizione Sud, Prato, tel , Jan 4, Piano recital by Raffaele Scalise Music by Chopin and Schubert Teatro Magnolfi, via Gobetti 79, Prato, tel , Jan 4, 21.00, free Scandicci and Florence Children Choirs Teatro Aurora, via S. Bartolo in Tuto 1, Scandicci, tel , Jan 5, T.R.E. Tri Razional Eccentrico, jazz Teatro Regina Margherita, via A. Mori 20, Marcialla - Barberino Val d Elsa, tel , Jan 5, Bluesbrothers Nite: The Hevol Band live Anomalia Club, via Dino Campana 58, S. Lucia Prato, tel , Jan 6 Clampdown! Clash, rock Ministry, via Pulicciano 53, c/o CRC Antella, Bagno a Ripoli, tel , Jan 7, 22.00, 5 La Réjouissance Trento and Veneto Youth Orchestra Music by Bach, Haendel, Vivaldi, Saint- Saens, Morricone, Elgar, Mozart and Williams Abbazia San Salvatore e San Lorenzo a Settimo, Badia a Settimo - Scandicci, tel , Jan 8, 17.00, 7/5 La Réjouissance Trento and Veneto Youth Orchestra Music by Bach, Haendel, Vivaldi, Saint- Saens, Morricone, Elgar, Mozart and Williams Palazzo delle Esposizioni, piazza Guido Guerra, Empoli, tel , Jan 9, 21.00, 13/10 Trio Salvi Paolieri Polidori, Latin jazz Offi cina Giovani - Cantieri Ex Macelli, piazza Macelli 4, Prato, tel , cinagiovani.it, Jan 9, 19.30, free Ruminando - Claudia Bombardella Trio, jazz Teatro Comunale di Antella, via Montisoni 10, Antella - Bagno a Ripoli, tel , Jan 10-15, 21.00, Sun The Bass Gang (double-bass quartet) Monash University, Palazzo Vaj, via Pugliesi 26, Prato, tel , Jan 11, PARKS Sculptures in a woodland In a untouched wood of ilex and oak trees in the heart of Sienese Chianti, many internationally renowned artists from fi ve continents have created imposing contemporary sculptures in accordance with their own creative ideas and style. Parco sculture del Chianti, La Fornace 48/49, Pievasciata, Siena, tel , open all year PARTIES New Year s Eve Party Buffet dinner from 20.30, party from midnight with 10 DJs alternating in 3 rooms (all styles, house, hip-hop) Sette Stelle Discobar, via del Lago 18, Barberino del Mugello, tel / , Dec 31, dinner and party 60, party only 20 New Year s Eve Dinner and Show Dinner, cabaret show and belly dancing Ridotto del Teatro del Popolo, piazza Gramsci, Castelfi orentino, tel , www. microscena.it, Dec 31, 60 New Year s Eve Party Gala dinner together with VIPs from TV show Uomini e Donne, party with DJs all styles and house Palaprato, via Erbosa 108, Prato, tel , Dec 31 New Year s Eve in Middle-Age Ambient Mystery night in medieval costumes Antico Spedale del Bigallo, via Bigallo e Apparita 14, Bagno a Ripoli, book in advance on / , Dec 31 New Year s Eve Dinner and Show Clowns, actors, poets, musicians, dancers, magicians, Jack and Joe Music Band Jack and Joe Theatre, via Pablo Picasso 9, Cerbaia - San Casciano, tel , Dec 31, SPORTS & ACTIVITIES 28th Palastreto winter foot race Colonnata - Sesto Fiorentino, tel , Jan 8 Empoli Messina Serie A professional soccer match Stadio Castellani, viale delle Olimpiadi, Empoli, tel , Jan 8 I Cavalieri Prato - Rugby Brescia Serie A professional rugby match Campo comunale E. Chersoni di Iolo, Prato, tel , Jan 8, HAPPY

14 14 UP CLOSE & PERSONAL Moira McFarland, British Consul General by Erin Townsend TF: Do you have a message for young women studying or living in Florence? MM: My message to young women is to be aware of your cultural differences because what others infer from your actions might not be the same as your intentions. And above all, do not walk alone, or if you must, walk in the middle of the street. You will never be able to get her out of your soul. Moira McFarland serves as the British Consul General covering the Regions of Tuscany, Umbria, Emilia Romagna and Marche. We were fortunate to steal her away from her diplomatic duties long enough to ask some questions about her life as a Florentine. The Florentine: How long have you served as the British Consul General here in Florence? Moira McFarland: I have spent four years at this post, and it feels very much like home. TF: How far back do your diplomatic predecessors go in Italian history? MM: The presence of British representation in Tuscany can be traced back to 1698, but the fi rst offi cial British Consul General was appointed in He was sent basically to spy on the Tuscan Court and make sure the Brits knew what the Tuscan Navy was up to. Since then, except for Napoleon and World War II, Great Britain has always had some form of presence in Italy. TF: What roles does the British Consulate have today? MM: Obviously the effect here was not any different than if we had been in the UK, we were all shocked. The same day of the bombings I had received 149 letters and s from Italians, expressing their grief and support. That evening over 1000 people showed up in Piazza della Signoria for a vigil. TF: How did your job change after that day? MM: For all of us, the biggest wake-up call was the fact that those bombers were not insurgents, but our own, from well-off families, born and raised in the UK it was a realisation that you can even be successful in a society without feeling a part of it. We decided to start doing a deeper evaluation of the people moving into our country, but the UK government decided not to change the immigration policies themselves. TF: What is the one thing you love most about living in Florence? MM: I think the fact that I get to learn something new everyday. Especially at my age, it is something unique to have the opportunity to meet so many marvellous people. TF: The issue has recently been raised that a serious problem is emerging in Florence with American students and the abuse of alcohol. Is this a common problem among British students as well? MM: We don t have fi xed university campuses like many American schools, just the British Institute, but even between Italians and Brits there is a big cultural difference. Young Italian women are not big drinkers. Young Italian men seem to be responsive to American and British girls because they are more likely to be out and possibly drunk. I think that the big house keys here make it diffi cult to open the large front doors, and provides an opportunity to take advantage of a women trying to open her door late at night this is often the scenario for rapes that take place. TF: How do you think the Italians see British who come to visit or live in Italy? MM: There is a question in the European mind of how committed we (Britons) are to being European because we have always been cautious about handing over control, and I suppose it shows since we have not been invaded since We Brits have a reputation for being insular, such as the Chiantishire. It s true that there are Brits who come here and live in their bubbles, but those who choose to be insular become invisible. There are other Brits who come and live here and seem every bit as Italian as the Italians. TF: If you could describe Florence as a person, who would she be? MM: She is a very complex person, elegant and alluring, with a bit of her outfi t frayed at the edges, hoping that people won t notice. She is layered, in the sense that she is mantled. There will always be something beautiful underneath. It is hard to get to know her, because she is accustomed to meeting strangers, but if you get into her and know her enough, you will never be able to get her out of your soul. MM: There are three main responsibilities. First, we provide consular assistance and protection for Brits and their interests. Second, the cultural section, or the commercial side, exists to help British businesses and industries that are present in Italy. And third, there is a political role, to report to and represent the UK and the major British trade initiative. We also organize all British cultural events. TF: After the London bombings occurred this summer, what was the reaction here in Florence? TF: Is there anything about Florence that you are not particularly fond of? MM: It s hard to say. I suppose not having my children around the corner has been hard, but if I have to choose, I have a genuine hatred for the motorino. In terms of noise and pollution, and also just that they have no concept of how diffi cult it is for a car driver to see them. They cut across your bonnet, and very genuinely, the last thing I want to do is run over a motorcyclist, but it seems they keep inviting me to. LISA CORTI HOME TEXTILE EMPORIUM a Firenze in via de Bardi 58 Tel. 055/ e in via San Niccolò 95/97/r Tel.055/

15 Culture & CUSTOMS 15 All of the articles found in the following pages are written by independent collaborators. The Florentine seeks to publish stories that are interesting, entertaining, and useful to all of our readers. If and when a writer expresses opinions within his or her work those opinions should be considered to be those of the writer and not necessarily those of the publishers of this newspaper. If you wish to submit articles for consideration please contact us at ITALIAN VOICES: A Window on Language and Customs in Italy... Compiere gli anni by Linda Falcone If you want to have many birthdays, live in Italy. Together with Japan, Italy boasts the longest life span in the world. Thirtysix paid vacation days a year and the Mediterranean diet are probably partly responsible. Frequent art-filled walks and friendly piazza talks may also have something to do with it. Italy might not be the land of eternal youth, but it might just be the land of prolonged youth if you play your birthday cards right. On the whole, Italians turn a year older without making too many waves. As far as I can see, there are several reasons for this. Firstly, most people have the habit of easing into their new year as if they were lowering themselves very slowly into an unheated pool. Aging is a one step at a time process designed to avoid the shock of a headfirst dive. Indeed, an Italian will almost always begin saying their new age months before they actually have their birthday. In fact, when an Italian asks you how old you are, what they really want to know is the age you will be by the end of the year. In this country, if you turn thirty on the second of November, you will have probably said goodbye to your twenties as early as April. Another reason that Italians take birthdays in stride lies in the virtue On the whole, Italians turn a year older without making too many waves. As far as I can see, there are several reasons for this. Firstly, most people have the habit of easing into their new year as if they were lowering themselves very slowly into an unheated pool. Aging is a one step at a time process designed to avoid the shock of a headfi rst dive. of their language. My friend Donatella explained it to me one day. In English, you are forced to speak about age using the unfortunate question, How old are you? It s not at all reasonable that even a child born last year be tagged old. With all the politically-correct language zealots in your country, you d think someone would have modified that phrase. Being old so early is detrimental to the psyche. The Italian form of the question, my friend continued, has none of the same ominous implications. Quanti anni hai, How many years do you have? Makes years sound like prized possessions that have to be earned. To Donatella, there was a pleasantness in the question, as if someone were asking how many baseball cards you ve collected or how many glass marbles you ve stowed in your treasure jar. The more years you have, of course, the wealthier you are. Even the Italian answer to the anni question is much more sophisticated than its English-language equivalent. Quanti anni hai? you may ask. I m in the Class of 72, will be the veiled reply. In Italy, this is how most people will get around saying their age. Unfortunately, you are expected to do your own math, and if you re like me, you ll seldom bother. I d rather it remain a mystery than actually have to do subtraction in my head. But if you are a natural mathematician and have no aversion to simple arithmetic, it may help you to know that Class of 72 does not stand for the year that person graduated from school. Their class refers to the year of their birth. But there is one more reason why years in Italy fly by with grace and ease. And that is, when it s your birthday, you re expected to give rather than get. As Italians see it, you are the one who should be the happiest about your own birth. Therefore, it s logical that you be held responsible for most of the celebrating. In Italy, there s no sense of self-importance attached to blatantly making a big to-do about your own birthday. You are allowed, even expected, to bounce down the hall greeting every colleague you meet by saying, Oggi compio gli anni, today I fulfil my years. Certainly, the use of fulfil here implies some sense of duty or obligation. It s up to you to make the world a happier place, at least on that one day a year that belongs to you. So bring in cream puffs for your colleagues. Take your friends for prosecco in the piazza. And if you go out to eat be the one to treat and not the one to be treated. Fulfil your year the Italian way, because it is said that to be giving is the best way to stay forever young.

16 16 Culture & CUSTOMS Life in Italy The Undershirt Police by Stephanie Tarnowski When I first moved to Italy I didn t give much thought to the fact of undershirts. Sure, I thought it was funny that my then boyfriend and now husband called them FROO-EETS (short of course for Fruit of the Loom pronounced in a spectacularly Italian way). Or that my now father-inlaw had summer undershirts made of cotton, sleeveless undershirts made of wool for the mid season, and cotton on the inside/wool on the outside, heavy undershirts, for those very cold days. All of which, needing to be lovingly washed by hand, to insure against any washing machine crisis. For me the undershirt odyssey started the day my son was born. The bustling nurses in the maternity ward were hunting. They were hunting for undershirts. Where are the undershirts? they asked in disbelief rifling through the bag of clothing I had brought to swaddle my infant.. This was July, in the middle of the worst heat wave to have struck Italy in the last 100 years. Hughhmmph? I answered in a groggy state. The undershirts. These pyjamas cannot be worn without an undershirt, they said. I don t think I have any, I replied. Well, they said, tell your husband that when he comes back he is to bring undershirts with him! Fine, OK, whatever; just let me sleep! My son was in an incubator where the temperature hovered somewhere around that of a Tahitian beach in summer and they were asking for undershirts? Little did I know that the quest for the undershirt would follow me for years to come. When I went to pick up my son from the first day of nursery school I was quite taken aback by the tongue-lashing I was to receive from the ominous Maestra Marisa. She quickly identified and extricated me from the crowd of mothers (could it be because I was the tallest mommy in the group or did the blond hair give it away?) and waggled her finger at me threateningly, summoning me to her side. Signora! she barked at me, your son is dressed inappropriately today and I expect you to make amends by tomorrow! Gee, I said. I know he s not wearing a smock but the choice was so vast that I wanted to ask you exactly what type of That s not the problem! she barked again. The problem is the undershirt! The undershirt? I answered, not sure if I had heard correctly. That is correct, Madam. Your son is not wearing an undershirt. Now, I don t know about you but when it is 70 outside, beautiful and sunny, I tend not to dress in layers. An undershirt is a piece of clothing I reserve for chilly days in February. Little did I know that the undercover undershirt police lurk about, waiting to bust you if you are not wearing this all-purpose piece of clothing. You are supposed to start out as soon as you leave your mother s womb wearing a magliettina della salute or a little health undershirt. Better if it s red silk. That way it does double duty by warding off the evil eye, too. Last week I picked up my son from second grade. When the children filed out he was first in line, holding the teachers hand. A treatment generally reserved for those who have been disruptive at school and need a speaking to with both mother and teacher. Signora, the teacher singsonged with an evil glimmer in her eye, your son is not wearing an undershirt today! At least have the decency to put on his sweatshirt before he leaves the premises or I will not be responsible should anything happen to him. Good day! And with that, she left. Leaving me to think that the battle is far from over. My mother used to tell me that you never want to wear underwear that are dirty or have holes, because you never know when you might be rushed to a hospital, and have to face the embarrassment of these being seen by the doctors saving your life! Similarly in Italy, not You are supposed to start out as soon as you leave your mother s womb wearing a magliettina della salute or a little health undershirt. Better if it s red silk. That way it does double duty by warding off the evil eye, too. wearing an undershirt, an infraction akin to that of not wearing a seatbelt, is a cause for serious concern. So be warned, the next time you are dressing yourself or another, ask yourself how you will fare under the scrutiny of the Undershirt Police who are on patrol at all times and all places. Goodness knows, you don t want to face the consequences of failing the inspection.

17 Life in Italy 17 The ARTS Mythologica et Erotica: Enchanting Ancient Myths and their Erotic Legacy by Margherita Guarnieri A opens the mind to dreams joy for the eyes, this exhibition warms the heart and This is how Antonio Paolucci, Superintendent of the Arts in Florence, described the exhibition Mythologica et Erotica at its opening night in Palazzo Pitti, where it will be on display until May 15. As the title suggests, the exhibition is a journey through the loving attitudes of the merry gods of Greek mythology. Don t expect a hardcore movie of the past: even in the orgies; Eros is handled with respect and presented with great sensibility, good taste and intriguing sensuality, offering a highly pleasurable experience to visitors. The wonderful building of the Museo degli Argenti is the perfect setting for this sensitive presentation of the works displayed, which range from paintings and sculptures to drawings and tapestries, not to mention a vast array of precious cameos. The idea for this exhibition was born while studying the valuable collection of 800 cameos from the Medici family, most of them representing mythological themes, explains Ornella Casazza, the exhibition curator. The more or less illicit love affairs between gods and humans, fauns and nymphs, satyrs and bacchants, heroes and the fantastic creatures described in old myths and legends intrigued the Renaissance collectors, who avidly sought to obtain the Greek and Roman themes censured during the Middle Ages. Figurative and literary examples inspired artists to reproduce erotic symbols and metamorphoses in prints, paintings, sculptures, jewels, decorations and everyday objects such as ceramic dishes or bronze candleholders. Thus, we have an apotheosis of naked bodies in tender embraces painted by Tiepolo, Rubens, Giambologna, Carracci and many other artists moved by the suggestions of ancient myths, and commissioned by wealthy patrons who liked to identify with those myths. The first century AD proved to be a particularly propitious one for erotic art: hence in the exhibition we see a stone phallus proudly standing on lion s feet and a sleeping hermaphrodite with double sexual attributes, also a lurking marble Pan, Mars and Venus displaying their love on a silver cup. Then we find a willing bronze Ganimede, (lent by the British Museum), seated on an eagle made in XVI AD, alluring dancing Graces reproduced in the same century and the rare collages of erotic positions by Raimondi. Not to mention the various representations of the triumphs of Venus, culminating in a majestic French tapestry which is exhibited here for the first time ever alongside an equally impressive tapestry representing Poseidon and Anfitrite and surrounded by a colourful array of fish. Eros and Psyche is, of course, the dominant myth, but Apollo and Daphne are also represented, together with Bacchus and Arianna, Artemis and Atteone, Pan and Siringa, as well as those ambiguous passions involving gods and mortals such as Ciparisso, Adone, Giacinto, and the tragic love stories of Ero Workshop, Show Rooms and classes and Leandro and Piramo and Tisbe, which have nourished imagination and literature for centuries. Ovid s Metamorphosis also proved to have a leading role in inspiring paintings and sculptures, such as the amazing transformations of flirting Zeus hunting Europa, Danae or Leda, which have provided many an artist with the opportunity to depict saucy situations to erotically gratify his patrons. On the whole, this is a delectable and enticing exhibit, revealing Eros as always being the driving force of human life, and how erotic art can be elegantly captivating in a poetic manner.

18 18 Travel& LEISURE Life in Italy A Day in Livorno A Timeless Guide with a Little Help from the Past by Paolo Necchi will tell you what our stay is like. Very well, as far as I board and lodging is concerned; what disturbs me a bit is the noise. We live in Via Ferdinanda, also known as Via Grande. These words were written on August 15, 1827 by Alessandro Manzoni, one of the most famous and internationally acclaimed Italian novelists and author of The Betrothed, to describe his stay in Livorno. A native of Milan and visitor to Venice and Paris he depicted it as a lively, busy city, teeming with people from different nations. He said about Via Grande, the main street, that if you imagine a wild carnival atmosphere, you will only have half of the picture of what was going on there; such is the crowd, the hustle and bustle, the shouting. The backyard was not quiet either. There was a Greek café, the first in Livorno, whose patrons came from different countries, and read, talked and shouted until late at night. The funny thing is that the noise also came from the upstairs apartment. Manzoni said that there were some people upstairs, he did not know who, that did something at night, he did not know what. Pietro, a friend of the novelist, assumed, and Manzoni thought he was not far from the truth, that they played a strange and unusual game jumping from one chair to another some thirty feet apart. And winning this game must give both glory and pleasure judging from the noise they make. Livorno is on the coast, less than 100 kilometres from Florence, and is still as vibrant and lively a city as in Manzoni s days. It is one of the largest ports in the Mediterranean Sea for goods and passengers alike and has many tourist attractions. Its origins date back to the first millennium BC when the Etruscans settled in the surrounding area, but it was not until the Middle Ages, when the Port of Pise silted up, that Livorno developed from a small village into a town. In 1284, Genoa defeated Pise in the battle of Meloria and came into possession of Livorno which was sold in 1421 to Florence for florins. In 1518, Cardinal Giulio de Medici, who later became pope, decided to build an impregnable fortress in Livorno for soldiers. The fortress was called Fortezza Vecchia to differentiate it from Fortezza Nuova whose first stone was laid under Ferdinando I de Medici. The two fortresses are still standing and open to visitors. In 1542, Cosimo I de Medici ordered the building of a canal to connect Livorno to Pise and, through the Arno River, to Florence. Amazingly, the canal, known as Canale dei Navicelli, still exists. Between 1591 and 1593 Ferdinando I de Medici passed a series of laws, known as Leggi Livornine, which were to become a milestone in Livorno s history. Under those laws, designed to populate the city, criminals who moved to Livorno were granted a pardon, while foreigners persecuted because of their race, religion or political orientation were offered a safe haven. A cosmopolitan, tolerant, culturally diversified city was born. The large presence in Livorno of places of worship and cemeteries built by different religious and ethnic groups is testimony to the huge, heterogeneous influx of people who arrived after those laws were passed. Besides the fortresses and aforementioned places of worship, Venice is another place you should not miss when visiting Livorno. Venice is a small but fascinating replica of the famous city and an integral part of Livorno. Built in the 17 th century, under Ferdinando II de Medici, in order to connect, through an intricate network of canals, the docks to the warehouses of the numerous merchants operating there and originally called New Venice, it is a district full of charming corners, picturesque bridges and elegant buildings where rich merchants once lived. An exciting festival, called Effetto Venezia, is held in this district each summer, featuring theatre representations, concerts, art exhibitions, street performances, openair markets, restaurants and cafés. Livorno boasts one of Italy s most beautiful theatres; the recently renovated Teatro Goldoni, as well as an interesting aquarium and several museums. Most notably the Natural History Museum, which includes a botanical garden, the Museo Mascagnano, where manuscripts, music scores and paintings of Pietro Mascagni, the famous composer and author of La Cavalleria Rusticana, are on display and the Museo Fattori, where you can find temporary, themed art exhibitions and a permanent exhibition of Giovanni Fattori s works. He was one of the most prominent Italian painters of the 19 th century and leader of the Macchiaioli movement. Livorno s most famous monument, which is also an emblem of the city, lies near the entrance to the Porto Mediceo and consists of a marble statue of Ferdinando I de Medici with four bronze chained figures at his feet, symbolizing his triumph over the pirates who infested the Mediterranean Sea. For more information about Livorno, check out Mondadori s Livorno City Book which is published in several languages including English. And, please, do not let Manzoni s words put you off: Livorno is not that noisy. Grand Hotel Mediterraneo Lungarno del Tempio, Firenze sponsored by UNESCO CENTER OF FLORENCE

19 Life in Italy 19 Travel& LEISURE An Equestrian Dream Come True in Florence A 100-Year Old Riding School in the Cascine by Kara Hoffman Whether it be shopping at the Tuesday morning market, taking a run along the river, swimming at the public pool or frequenting the discotecas, you may have spent time in Florence s largest public park, il Parco delle Cascine. This massive park, more than 290 acres, is about a third of the size of New York s Central Park and offers a wide array of activities. While many have taken advantage of the trails and open spaces in the park, very few know that deep in the park is Florence s most prestigious and famous equestrian club, Centro Ippico Toscano (CIT). The competitive sport of horseback riding, or cavallo da sella, dates back to 1868 when the first competition took place at the royal Dublin Horse Show. Since then, the interest and enthusiasm for the sport grew quickly in Europe and North America, and by the late 1800s, horse shows were considered regular international events. Italy in particular, has a rich history and affection for these four-legged animals that some have dubbed man s other best friend. The country has many ancient traditions and celebrations centered on the sport of racing horses. The most famous perhaps is the Palio of Siena, a death defying race three times around the city s renowned Piazza del Campo that occurs twice each summer in mid-july and early August. Competitive horseback riding became popularized by Capitano Caprilli, a famed military man, instructor and director of the cavalry school at Pinerolo in the Piedmonte region. During this time in the early 1900s, professional riding schools were being built throughout Italy to promote the study and practice of riding. In Florence, CIT was founded, beginning its 100 year reign as the superior riding school in Florence. The Florentine Society for Cavallo da Sella was located in Via degli Orti Oricellari until the 1950s when the rapid development of the city made it necessary to move to a more spacious location. The Commune di Firenze, with financial assistance from the Azienda del Turismo, worked with CIT to construct the new riding school, ring and stable in the Cascine on Via de Vespucci. In recent years, to adapt to the school s continued growth and popularity, CIT has expanded with an additional riding ring and added on to the stable that can now house up to 140 horses. At CIT we are dedicated to spreading the practice of the sport of horseback riding, said the school s director, Oliviero Fani. For more than 100 years we have concentrated on preparing many young riders to obtain the level necessary to compete in some of the biggest and most well-known competitions throughout Italy. Today there are more than 1,400 members and 350 equestrians that practice at CIT. The school offers a variety of classes for students age four and up who want to practice the sport either as a hobby or to pursue as a career. Further, with eight certified instructors on staff, those looking to practice individually can have private lessons. The school of basic horseback riding or Equitazione di Base, is directed by Angela Frati, a federal instructor of the first degree level. Lessons are carried out everyday except Monday and practice includes flat riding and jumping obstacles. The school has 10 horses and nine ponies that are ridden by students to develop the core skills of riding. Students are also encouraged to participate in other developmental courses including theory of equestrian techniques, foreign equestrian studies and grooming. Students often participate in national competitions, such as Arezzo, Cervia, Bologna, Migliarino, Pontedera and the two biggest Italian competitions, Piazza di Siena and Verona. Advanced students also participate in international shows throughout the world.. As a result of the school s keen focus on discipline, CIT students continually rank in the top of each class, giving the school a stellar reputation throughout Italy. CIT offers one time riding lessons to tourists and it gladly welcomes foreigners with an interest in training at the school. Sheila Priory, an American living in Florence and working for Gucci has been training at CIT for more than a year now, and has just joined the show circuit, riding at Pontedera in October. Horseback riding has always been my biggest passion, said Priory. Aside from the exceptional training and top-of-the-line horses available at CIT, I found it has something most barns don t: a sense of community and friendship. This brings a whole new aspect into the experience and makes me really look forward to going every day whether to ride or to join a friend for lunch. The school is truly a place to both practice and belong. The facilities also include a bar and restaurant and some of the younger members regularly participate in group activities, such as dinners and evenings out. The school is planning to expand again with a pool and a private party room that can be rented out for events and dinners. So the next time you re taking a stroll deep into the Cascine and you stumble upon these perfectly manicured grounds with massive stables and professional riding rings, you ll know it s a little riding school, with humble beginnings that has carved a piece of history in Florence as its most prestigious, 100 year-old riding school. For more information on the school and riding opportunities, you may contact: Centro Ippico Toscano Via de Vespucci, Firenze Phone: The Florentine Crew wishes you a VERY MERRY NEW YEAR!!!

20 20 STYLE & FASHION Life in Italy Strong Women Wear Violet: An Interview with Vivia Ferragamo by Gillian Kirkpatrick Vivia Ferragamo was born into Florence s fashion royalty, the Ferragamo family. As the granddaughter of the legendary Salvatore Ferragamo, she has fashion in her blood. She has recently started her own collection, Vivia. The obvious question is why not work for the family business? The Florentine has the answer to this question, and many more, in this intimate interview with Vivia Ferragamo. The Florentine: How did your family react when you said you were starting your own line? Vivia Ferragamo: Proud, very proud. Everyone said, You ve got guts. It was just after 9.11, and I d had some rocky experiences. I fi nd experiences, negative and positive, help very much. It s a passion, a journey within. I design it because it s bigger than me. I don t quite have a choice. So my family has always supported me, because what I do comes from being part of them. If you ask my grandmother, at 3 or 4, I wasn t playing with dolls. I would lock myself in her closet with purses and shoes, and those were my babies. Still, my favourite things are the vintage treasures she gives me from time to time. Once recently she gave me a crocodile bag from the 1960 s, it s like a precious jewel to me. Although my grandfather has died, I often ask him to give me a hand. I think my whole family feels his presence. I think he is smiling away at what I m doing. TF: Do you do all the designing yourself? VF: Yes. Florence is my base in terms of factories, it s my roots, but my inspiration is found where I travel. All my creativity is nested abroad and then developed and expressed here in Italy. TF: What inspires you when you travel? VF: I am not usually inspired by a specifi c era or a specifi c actress or a fi lm. I get inspired by situations, by emotions, by states of mind. I get inspired by energy, positiveness, and curiosity. Not to say that Florence doesn t have this, but I come here to work. I m more of a tourist when I m in London, NY, or LA. I feed my soul and do lots of homework. I love differences in cultures. It completes me. I could be inspired by an old lady walking down the street, what aura she gives out. My creativity is very internal, a feeling, a sensation. TF: What is the inspiration for your line, the colors, the fabrics, etc.? VF: Violet is my color. It is passionate, feminine. Many women who are real women love that color. Lots of strong women love violet. My autumn/winter collection is all about reds, violets, light grays, zincs, turquoise, and chocolates in fur, cashmere, knits, and silk. I was inspired by Brazil for Spring 2006 so everything is very festive like mango, oranges, pinks, very fun and girly, aqua and lots of violets. I like to play with very soft leathers and create lots of ruching. My bags have contrast in colours, fabrics and textures. I play with jerseys and knitwear to create comfortable, feminine, cozy, romantic clothing that works together. This season s collection is a story of two women. One is Rosella who is dramatic and sensual, passionate, and outward, and the other is Sandy, a modern Cinderella who is inward, intelligent, sophisticated and technological. Rosella s side is ruby red, chocolaty, animal-like, passionate, with strong violets, black and luxurious furs. Sandy s side is more delicate, with fl owery prints, violets, mint greens and charcoal grays. I love contrast. I believe all of us have many facets, like a diamond. TF: These aren t real women, that you know? VF: No they aren t real people, but yes I most defi nitely know them. TF: Tell me about being a woman yourself. VF: Today, I think being a woman is very, very diffi cult. I think women today have lost their grace. Women are becoming too tough instead of maintaining their gentle side. TF: What is your greatest asset? VF: My determination. It is my biggest asset but it can also be my biggest defect, because sometimes I can be stubborn. I work hard, and if I have a goal, I will get there. This is what has gotten me through diffi culties and handled obstacles. It s how I was able to complete a marathon. I like a challenge. TF: What do you consider your greatest accomplishment? VF: Designing, creating and producing my line, and fi nishing the London Marathon. TF: What would you like to see happen for you as a person and a designer? What is it that you have as a mission or that pulls you? VF: I would like to see my product going a step further, my organization going a step further, me as a person and a designer going a step further, I m always looking for the next thing, I m not very content, well, I m content but I always want to do more. I always want to do the next race in a shorter time.

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